--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #135
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Friday, March 26
1999 Volume 01 : Number
135
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:44:06 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
looking for spark plugs
>
>> The best price I've found so far
is at Pep Boys at about $18 for the NGK
>
>As Barry mentioned, these
plugs can be had for about $10 & change each.
>I also believe there
was a post in reply to your original post that said
>they sell the plugs
for $10.00, but I don't remember who sent it.
>
>A VR4 is expensive
to maintain as you can see by the price of the
>plugs>
come
on guys!! these plugs should be good for 60K miles.
Some
quick math shows about 1/10 cent per mile. In terms of overall
cost per mile
that ain't too bad.
P.S. if your cheep you could probably go
100,000.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:54:50 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RPS clutch Group Purchase !
>Friends, ... here's a little easter gift
for your beloved car !
>
>More power = more problems with the stock
clutch. This equation is very
true and
>therefore it's time for a new
clutch. I shopped around a little bit and
found
>the "RPS TURBO CARBON"
as one of the best solutions. Till today I only
heard
>good things
about it and I think it's a really good choice.
>
I'll take one
also -- I don't need it for a while but it looks like the
price
is right!!
Question?? How streetable is the carbon? While my current
mods are
modest, I, like others have big plans. [ a lottery win about
now
would help ]. My car is driven daily by me and my wife and while it's
not our
primary transportation it's the most fun.
Jim
Berry
------93 "arrest me red" Stealth
TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.75 sec. 1/4
13.3 @
110
[ suspension mods next ]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:54:45 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Hey Jason;
There may
be some slight difference in your first generation installation over
the
installation in Barry's, Jim's or Errin's second generation cars.
Certainly the wiring
jacks in the ECU are different. So, perhaps you can run
through a quick check list with
Jack, as I believe his is a first generation
with an Apexi, and there may be a glitch
you/we are not catching that he
worked out. I am still setting and resetting mine (1G)
for what I believe
should be better optimum performance. It may be as I noted
previously,
that it needs an extended fine tuning self learn cycle, which I
insistently
interrupt with new settings. And perhaps you are doing the same.
Jack?
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 23:22:13 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hey Jason;
>
> There may be some slight difference in your
first generation...
snip
Kinda doubt it, mine's a 94 :P I
ran it through the learning phase
again, took it out on the highway and
nailed it through 3rd and part of
4th, then nailed it in 6th. I did
this a few times, and it seems to be
only dropping down to .7 most often now,
although it did drop down to
.49 at one point. It's hard to say, but it
seems that it's staying at
or around 1 atmosphere longer. Still kinda
hard for me to say whether I
can actually feel a difference now, I don't
drive it as hard as before
the mods, shift it kinda slowly now, so it might
not feel quite as fast
due to that. I wasn't able to spend much time
with it, but it does seem
to want to max the injectors in 2nd for several
seconds. I haven't yet
changed my fuel filter, but would the ecu know
that there wasn't as much
fuel getting to the injectors? I was under
the impression, that with
bigger injectors, the fuel mapping is the
same. That would tell me that
the ecu assumes that the injectors are
the same and that the injectors
are getting the same amount of fuel and it
wouldn't matter if the fuel
filter wasn't passing enough or not, it'd be
maxxed anyway. Am I wrong?
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 22:58:06 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVC-R installation (boost settings)
The ECU is programmed to deliver fuel
based on airflow. In closed loop mode
(where the ECU reads the O2
sensor voltage cross counts) the ECU will trim
fuel up or down in an attempt
to get a close to optimal mixture based on its
internal maps.
The
stock ECU fuel tables expect stock injectors. With larger than
stock
injectors, in open loop mode, and without some sort of "fuel computer",
the
ECU will generate injector pulses appropriate for stock injectors
and
therefore deliver too much fuel. If you are running way too rich
due to
uncorrected large injectors it could result in power loss. The
ECU will
still be operating on the assumption that smaller injectors are in
place and
still think it is maxing out the injectors, even though way too
much fuel
may be being delivered. If the AVC-R is seeing 90% IDC or
more it will drop
out of learn mode.
The duty cycle is a measure of
the on time for the injectors. So, the ECU
really doesn't know how much
fuel is being delivered except by pulse width
and known flow rates for the
stock injectors, all of which is hardcoded in
the ECU.
Also, stock
turbos typically won't hold much more than 10-12 psi as the
engine RPMs
approach redline. On my '94 when it had stock turbos, 12 PSI
was the
most I ever saw at 7000 RPM and it was usually a bit less. However,
you
should be seeing your 1.00 bar well above 5500 RPM. If you have
15Gs
then 1.00 bar to redline would be expected.
Hope that
helps.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
>
>
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
>
> > Hey Jason;
> >
> > There may be some slight
difference in your first generation...
>
> snip
>
>
Kinda doubt it, mine's a 94 :P I ran it through the learning phase
>
again, took it out on the highway and nailed it through 3rd and part of
>
4th, then nailed it in 6th. I did this a few times, and it seems to
be
> only dropping down to .7 most often now, although it did drop down
to
> .49 at one point. It's hard to say, but it seems that it's
staying at
> or around 1 atmosphere longer. Still kinda hard for me
to say whether I
> can actually feel a difference now, I don't drive it as
hard as before
> the mods, shift it kinda slowly now, so it might not feel
quite as fast
> due to that. I wasn't able to spend much time with
it, but it does seem
> to want to max the injectors in 2nd for several
seconds. I haven't yet
> changed my fuel filter, but would the ecu
know that there wasn't as much
> fuel getting to the injectors? I
was under the impression, that with
> bigger injectors, the fuel mapping
is the same. That would tell me that
> the ecu assumes that the
injectors are the same and that the injectors
> are getting the same
amount of fuel and it wouldn't matter if the fuel
> filter wasn't passing
enough or not, it'd be maxxed anyway. Am I wrong?
>
>
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 00:14:18 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
"Barry E. King"
wrote:
> The stock ECU fuel tables expect stock injectors.
One of my two problems is that the IDC is showing my injectors
being
maxxed out for several seconds. It was brought up that perhaps my
fuel
filter wasn't passing enough fuel. Sounds like a good idea, but I
guess
I was right in thinking the ecu wouldn't know the difference, it'd
max
the injectors either way. If it is related to airflow, this
would
explain how one time they maxxed, and then dropped down as the
rpms
climbed. I had the monitor switched to IDC, and didn't notice
where the
leds where showing the boost, but I'm sure it was dropping, I've
seen it
drop to .49 or lower at WOT.
> The duty cycle is a
measure of the on time for the injectors.
Hmm, so would the
purpose of this setting be to adjust how long the
injectors spray? If
so, perhaps I need to drop it below 70 to lean it
some, but I don't have an
a/f meter :(
> Also, stock turbos typically won't hold much more
than 10-12 psi as the
> engine RPMs approach redline. On my '94 when
it had stock turbos, 12 PSI
> was the most I ever saw at 7000 RPM and it
was usually a bit less. However,
> you should be seeing your 1.00
bar well above 5500 RPM. If you have 15Gs
> then 1.00 bar to redline
would be expected.
10psi would be about .68 atmosphere, and it's dropped
way below that.
It seems to be doing better this time, perhaps I just needed
to give it
more learning time? Any idea how long it takes to
'learn'?
BTW, I haven't yet thanked you for the extensive help,
particularly in
installation. The pictures you sent were extremely
helpfull, and as you
said, everything just fell into place and made
sense.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 01:34:00 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Jason,
One of the
things I found helps the most is to make the hoses as short
as
possible. Also the setting in the AVCR is not for the IDC, it is
for
its own solenoid. I had great results with 1.0 bar at 70% in A and
1.05
bar at 84% in B. The only problem is if you're using stock
turbos,
after 5500 they will drop off to somewhere near 10-12 psi.
- -Jose
Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
> "Barry E.
King" wrote:
>
> > The stock ECU fuel tables expect stock
injectors.
>
> One of my two problems is that the IDC is showing my
injectors being
> maxxed out for several seconds. It was brought up
that perhaps my fuel
> filter wasn't passing enough fuel. Sounds
like a good idea, but I guess
> I was right in thinking the ecu wouldn't
know the difference, it'd max
> the injectors either way. If it is
related to airflow, this would
> explain how one time they maxxed, and
then dropped down as the rpms
> climbed. I had the monitor switched
to IDC, and didn't notice where the
> leds where showing the boost, but
I'm sure it was dropping, I've seen it
> drop to .49 or lower at
WOT.
>
> > The duty cycle is a measure of the on time for the
injectors.
>
> Hmm, so would the purpose of this setting be to
adjust how long the
> injectors spray? If so, perhaps I need to drop
it below 70 to lean it
> some, but I don't have an a/f meter :(
>
> > Also, stock turbos typically won't hold much more than 10-12 psi
as the
> > engine RPMs approach redline. On my '94 when it had
stock turbos, 12 PSI
> > was the most I ever saw at 7000 RPM and it was
usually a bit less. However,
> > you should be seeing your 1.00
bar well above 5500 RPM. If you have 15Gs
> > then 1.00 bar to
redline would be expected.
>
> 10psi would be about .68 atmosphere,
and it's dropped way below that.
> It seems to be doing better this time,
perhaps I just needed to give it
> more learning time? Any idea how
long it takes to 'learn'?
>
> BTW, I haven't yet thanked you for
the extensive help, particularly in
> installation. The pictures you
sent were extremely helpfull, and as you
> said, everything just fell into
place and made sense.
>
> Jason
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 00:49:30 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
josesini wrote:
>
> Jason,
>
> One of the things I found helps the most is to
make the hoses as short
> as possible. Also the setting in the AVCR
is not for the IDC, it is for
> its own solenoid. I had great
results with 1.0 bar at 70% in A and 1.05
> bar at 84% in B. The
only problem is if you're using stock turbos,
> after 5500 they will drop
off to somewhere near 10-12 psi.
Yeah, my hoses are pretty short. I
could maybe hack a couple inches
off, but it'd look like crap. There
might be two feet of hose leading
to both sides of the solenoid valve, maybe
a foot or so going to the
pressure sensor. What does increasing the
duty cycle of the solenoid
itself do? I'm dropping well below 10-12 psi
though.
Has anyone done this controller on a 2nd gen VR4 with a filter,
and 3
gutted cats for mods?
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:22:28 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dropping the pipes
> Actually, i'm thinking it will set a
check engine light, because he was
> talking about doing this on a 95
model i belive. 95's have 02 sensors
> before and after the pre-cats, if
you remove the cats, the ECU will know
> because the signals will be the
same, before and after.
AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2
sensors in each path, but I'll
recheck when I'm getting my CD back
:)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:28:42 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Friends,
Please try to send
the emails directly to for coordinating ! I also try to
answer the questions
after checking back. I'll place a FAQ upon your questions
onto my homepage
this weekend.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:22:28 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dropping the pipes
> Actually, i'm thinking it will set a
check engine light, because he was
> talking about doing this on a 95
model i belive. 95's have 02 sensors
> before and after the pre-cats, if
you remove the cats, the ECU will know
> because the signals will be the
same, before and after.
AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2
sensors in each path, but I'll
recheck when I'm getting my CD back
:)
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:28:42 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Friends,
Please try to send
the emails directly to for coordinating ! I also try to
answer the questions
after checking back. I'll place a FAQ upon your questions
onto my homepage
this weekend.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:37:22 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
> come on guys!! these
plugs should be good for 60K miles.
> Some quick math shows about
1/10 cent per mile. In terms of overall
> cost per mile that ain't too
bad.
> P.S. if your cheep you could probably go 100,000.
Barry, on
what boost and mods do your run your car ? Also have you ever figgled
around
tuning in another ECU, injectors, etc. Some of us can tell you stories
about
fouling the plugs with new mods not properly tuned in. This is why a
lot
people are able to remove the intake plenum so fast,
hehe.
Regards,
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:46:47 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
I haven't followed this
thread and therefore forgive if the idea has been posted
already.
What
about cleaning the fuel parts using an injector cleaner. This may not
clean
the filter but definitely removes (or tries to remove) any carbon
deposits on
the valves and in the chamber as well as it restores the spray
pattern of the
injectors. It's maybe worth to try out a can and watching for
any difference.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 05:14:57 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (summary)
Roger Gerl wrote:
> What
about cleaning the fuel parts using an injector cleaner. This may not
clean
> the filter but definitely removes (or tries to remove) any carbon
deposits on
> the valves and in the chamber as well as it restores the
spray pattern of the
> injectors. It's maybe worth to try out a can and
watching for any difference.
It's not a bad idea, but I don't
think it would solve the original
problem. My problem is that the AVC-R
is showing my injectors as being
maxxed out. I've heard it's not good
to run the injectors maxxed out,
or perhaps even over 90%. Not for fear
of detonation, but for possible
damage to the injectors. If I'm
understanding correctly, the ecu knows
not if the proper fuel is being given,
it'll try to give the same amount
whether the filter or any other part is not
passing enough fuel. In
fact, It'd be maxxing 720cc injectors if I were
using them. Keep in
mind that my car runs perfectly smooth, just not as
fast as I was
expecting, or not as big a difference as I would have
expected.
I have 91k miles, a weapon-r air filter, ngk plugs
gapped to .035,
accel wires, and gutted cats (all 3). I have 2, maybe
3
problems/disappointments/questions... Should my injectors be
maxxing
for several seconds, why does my boost drop as low as .49 atmosphere
at
wot in upper rpms, and why does it not seem like I just jumped
possibly
50 hp, even though the car idles and accelerates smooth as
silk. I'm
starting to think that the car is in fact faster, but I'm
paying
attention to too many other things, like boost and IDC, to
notice. I
won't know for sure till I go to the track. I'd
previously run
13.36@102.54 with a 1.96 60'
time. I've since done plugs, wires, cats,
and the boost
controller. I don't see any reason why I couldn't turn a
possible mid
12 with a perfect launch, if in fact I'm getting the
proper
boost.
I'm kinda wondering if anyone else using the
AVC-R had the same mods
as me at one point, on a 94+ if it's
applicable. I'm also wondering,
since my cats are gutted my exhaust
would flow better, would this make
it harder to maintain boost as there is
less restriction. Even though
the boost might drop, I would still
probably flow more air than with
cats, right?
thanks,
Jason
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 07:00:45 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVC-R installation (boost settings)
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> > The duty cycle is a measure of the on time for
the injectors.
>
> Hmm, so would the purpose of this setting be to
adjust how long the
> injectors spray? If so, perhaps I need to drop
it below 70 to lean it
> some, but I don't have an a/f meter :(
The
injector duty cycle (IDC) is an OBSERVATION (measurement) made by
the
AVC-R. The AVC-R does not and can not adjust the IDC. It has
a display
that allows you to see what the IDC is at. Boost Actuator
Duty Cycle (BADC)
is adjustable but that has nothing to do with the
injectors. The BADC is a
reflection of how often the boost solenoid
needs to be cycled (turned on and
off or opened and closed) to maintain a
given boost.
The manual does not state that you can set the IDC. I
am curious as to how
and why this myth continues to perpetuate. Is
someone spreading this
misinformation or is it some strange translation in
the manual or ??? Just
curious...
> 10psi would be about .68
atmosphere, and it's dropped way below that.
> It seems to be doing better
this time, perhaps I just needed to give it
> more learning time?
Any idea how long it takes to 'learn'?
If you are exceeding 90% IDC
during learn mode the AVC-R will not learn. It
is a safety feature
built into the AVC-R. Try making it learn at .80 bar
for kicks.
If that works gradually increase the boost (relearning at each
incrememnt)
until it stops learning.
I also suggest that you run back through your
installation and ensure that
all hoses are snug, not crimped or binding
anywhere, and that there are no
leaks. It is remotely possibly that
there is something amiss in the
installation.
> BTW, I haven't yet
thanked you for the extensive help, particularly in
> installation.
The pictures you sent were extremely helpfull, and as you
> said,
everything just fell into place and made sense.
You are welcome.
Glad it went okay.
> Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:27:29 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Iv'e seen many downpipes at a local
junckyard here in memphis that have o2
sensors attached to them, so it must
be all models, not just ca.
At 09:22 AM 3/26/99 +0100, you
wrote:
>
>AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2 sensors in
each path, but I'll
>recheck when I'm getting my CD back
:)
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 07:20:32 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Dropping the pipes
I would expect to see them in (at least) all 1996 and
later models since the
additional redundant sensors are and ODBII requirement
to ensure that cats
are woring properly. They do not exist on the '94
non-Ca models.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Iv'e seen many downpipes at a local
junckyard here in memphis that have o2
> sensors attached to them, so it
must be all models, not just ca.
>
> At 09:22 AM 3/26/99 +0100, you
wrote:
> >
> >AFAIK only the Californian cars do have 2 O2
sensors in each
> path, but I'll
> >recheck when I'm getting my
CD back :)
> >
> >Regards,
> >Roger
>
>93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:39:16 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
To elaborate a little more, I'm pretty
sure having o2 sensors before AND
after the pre-cats is a feature of the
On-Board Diagnostics (aka: OBD-II) ,
not california emissions. Because having
a sensor behind the cat monitors
the performance of the cat, and tells the
driver (via a check engine light)
when the cat needs to be replaced. I know
for a fact that OBD-II equipped
GM vehicles have before and after
sensors.
Wayne
At 08:27 AM 3/26/99 -0600, I wrote:
>Iv'e
seen many downpipes at a local junckyard here in memphis that have
o2
>sensors attached to them, so it must be all models, not just
ca.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:43:12 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
O.K. Cool, like i said in the original
post; I'm not sure what year they
went to having 4 sensors. I guess the
bottom line is, if you have 4 o2
sensors, you cannot hollow out the pre-cats
without setting a check engine
light......But if you only have two, hollow
away.......
At 07:20 AM 3/26/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I would expect
to see them in (at least) all 1996 and later models since the
>additional
redundant sensors are and ODBII requirement to ensure that cats
>are
woring properly. They do not exist on the '94 non-Ca
models.
>
>
>Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:33:32 -0600
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dropping the pipes
I know the 96's are 50 state emissions
compliant. I wonder if they all have 4 O2
sensors.
Trevor
96 R/T
TT
91 R/T TT
Wayne wrote:
> Iv'e seen many downpipes at a
local junckyard here in memphis that have o2
> sensors attached to them,
so it must be all models, not just ca.
>
> At 09:22 AM 3/26/99
+0100, you wrote:
> >
> >AFAIK only the Californian cars do
have 2 O2 sensors in each path, but I'll
> >recheck when I'm getting my
CD back :)
> >
> >Regards,
> >Roger
>
>93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:51:11 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Ok, two
questions... Think it's normal for me to max my injectors out? How
do I know
when it's done learning?
I think I may have been confused
between IDC and BADC because of the 'DC' part, and also
the fact that I
wasn't too familiar with the terminology used.
I thought it was over, I
was able to hold .80 through 3rd gear maxxing out the
injectors, but in 2nd
it dropped to .5*, I guess it was never learning at all.
thanks
again,
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:01:49 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVC-R installation (boost settings)
For stock injectors, no fuel
management device, and a decent running VR4,
yes I would expect to see the
injectors maxed out or close to it at high
boost. However, your car
doesn't seem to be getting into that territory. I
was able to get my
VR4 when it was stock to learn at 16 psi, and when I set
it to ridiculously
high boost it would max out around 18 psi without falling
back other than
what would be attributable to the curve of the stock
blowers.
At what
RPMs are you seeing these boost levels? It is normal for the
stock
turbos to drop boost down at higher RPMs. Lower gears also tend
to build
less boost. You'll see the most boost during extended higher
gears runs,
but I would think you should be seeing 1.00 bar pretty easily in
any case
(except in first and *maybe* second, but in second you should see
10-12 psi
anyway if not more).
As suggested previously, recheck
everything and try again. There is some
exp,anation for this, may as
well eliminate the obvious stuff first.
I strongly suggest a decent
quality boost gauge that you can mount somewhere
that you can see it all the
time without taking your eyes off the road.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Ok, two
questions... Think it's normal for me to max my
> injectors
out? How do I know
> when it's done learning?
>
> I
think I may have been confused between IDC and BADC because of
> the 'DC'
part, and also
> the fact that I wasn't too familiar with the terminology
used.
>
> I thought it was over, I was able to hold .80 through 3rd
gear
> maxxing out the
> injectors, but in 2nd it dropped to .5*, I
guess it was never
> learning at all.
>
> thanks
again,
> Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:17:23 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
looking for spark plugs
Roger,
I don't know if you actually
intended to reply to me or to the post you
quoted since that quote isn't from
me, but I'll respond anyway.
I have the usual 15G related junk plus the
MASC for mixture control. The
AFC is also wired in for ultra lean idle
since that is all the VR4 gets
tested for at emissions time here in AZ (no
AWD dynos) =). Plus no
pre-cats now so we'll see what happens
thisa year at emissions time.
I am intimately familiar with fouled
plugs. With mods and lots of high
boost running (read high temps) NGKs
last maybe a year. Plus messing with
mixture and big injectors almost
always ruins at least one set of plugs at
some point along the way.
I
wouldn't want to leave them in for 100K even if the car were stock, as
good
as the NGKs are.
My new setup includes bigger (again) injectors plus
engine work and I expect
to ruin at least one set of plugs getting it dialed
in, which is why I
bought two sets. For _initial_ tuning I usually
don't care what brand I use
since I expect to ruin the first set anyway,
although I try and stick with
what I will ultimately use. I have never
had a bad NGK plug and they have
never failed me since I started using them
20 years ago. I have seen bad
NGKs, (worked in a bike shop) but it is
extremely rare. Bosch seem to work
fine in Posche Turbos but they
didn't work in my VR4. Autolite, Champion
etc. might be okay for the
lawnmower...
HKS and Greddy do not make their own plugs. They are
likely either NGK or
Denso. Denso plugs seem to work well too -- there
was a set in my VR4 when
I bought it and they looked great when they were
replaced with NGK at 60K.
Barry
'94 VR4
lotsa mods
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> > come on guys!! these
plugs should be good for 60K miles.
> > Some quick math shows
about 1/10 cent per mile. In terms of overall
> > cost per mile that
ain't too bad.
> > P.S. if your cheep you could probably go
100,000.
>
> Barry, on what boost and mods do your run your car ?
Also have
> you ever figgled
> around tuning in another ECU,
injectors, etc. Some of us can tell
> you stories
> about fouling
the plugs with new mods not properly tuned in. This
> is why a lot
>
people are able to remove the intake plenum so fast, hehe.
>
>
Regards,
> Roger,
> 93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 08:08:34 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Hi Jason;
> You
wrote
snip
> Kinda doubt it, mine's a 94
Well... that
blows that theory. : )
snip
> Am I wrong?
Who can
say what the darn ECU is thinking. Half the time it's a box of magic, the
other
half it's an inegma.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 13:51:05 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
>>One
interesting side note, they have a reddish brown deposit on them.
When
>>asking around about this, I was told this is the result of using
octane
>>booster. Not sure if this is true, but they weren't fouled,
just
discolored.
>>Anyone else experience this?
Yes, this is
correct.
Octane boosters will leave a brown-orange-yellowish (soemtimes
referred as
rust like)
deposit, not only on the spart plugs, but as well
on the turbos (sometimes).
And no, no ill effect that I'm aware
of
Henri
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 16:39:20 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
Hi
Everyone
>>This glitch has occurred very intermittenly with me in
my Canadaian 92.
99.9% of the
>>time, opening the trunk with the
alarm activated will not set it off.
Well, it WAS activating my
alarm 100% of the time....sigh
>>Hmmm this should not be this way.
Was the car altered from the Canadian
standard
for
>>import?
Don't know
>> A section in the manual
deals with Cnadian versions (and California
versions)
>>check it out
and see if yours has been altered from that discribed.
Yes, it seems
so....seems that the car is NOT behaving like an US or a CDN
car,
strange
>>You'll have to live with the F like the rest of
us.
<sigh>...I think I can do that :-)
If I'm cold, I'll add a
couple degrees...and if I'm hot...I'll substract
some....it's the way
it
should work, isn't it :-)
>>Dunno..may be automatic, as I
haven't found it either.
Welcome on board..
I start to think that
either I have a gremlin...or that the mirror defrost
is
on when you have
the REAR defrost on, AND the clima set for the
front
defrost.
>>One suggestion i could give to avoid the trunk
going off is turn the key
all
>>the way to the right, and hold it
there while you open the trunk with your
>>hand.
Well, it was
NOT working.....but.....
>>No. Your lock switch us dirty. Try some
penetrating oil or take it apart
and clean it.
That WAS the
problem....got some electrical cleaner spray....fixed
it....provided I turn
the key ALL the way, holding the trunk closed...
AND, I discovered as
well that I had a "problem" with the Engine bay switch
as
well...
>>If you disarm the alarm in this way (key in hatch, hatch
open, no doors
>>opened), will the alarm rearm when the hatch is
closed?
NOW ??
Yes !!
AND...while working on the car, I
discovered as well that some cleaner in
the driver's lock, and turning the
key all the way for about 1 second, and
the above mentioned fix on the engine
bay switch fixed the activation of the
alarm using the key.
Thank you
for all of you who helped me..
Best
Henri
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:28:56 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hood Insulation / Scoops
- -----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, March 24, 1999 02:53 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hood Insulation /
Scoops
>
>
>Roger Gerl wrote:
-------------
>
>snip
>
>> I check out the local cost
and also if they come already painted or not !
>>
>
>The
price is a good...however they always come unpainted..so add paint
to
your total
>investment. Still modifying these is inexpensive
compared to Bozz.
>
>I am still hoping a team member with skill,
facilities, and ingenuity will
come up with
>a nice neat prefabricated
insert (cutout template included) for the back of
our strut
>tower
blisters. Mmmm ...something like the side of the hood vents in the
new
Mustangs
>(in that case they're inoperable) , only made for our
contour
configuration. ; ) It
>could prove to be a nice
little on the side enterprize if done with
class.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 10:15:48 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
At the reccomdation of
my friends/family, and pshycologist. I sold my VR4 and bought a 98
Accord EX,
with every option. It is sad to see it go, but after, the 2 transfer
cases,
clutch, master/slave cylinders, motor mount, and transmission, 3 weeks
of rental cars (all
last month); I am broke. I am curious what everyone
else here has been spending on
maintenance for the 91-93's Or was my
situation an isolated case. The accord still has
90k miles of warranty,
so I am not going to worry about _anything_.
Another question, I heard
tell that someone here raced a sportbike with thier GT, Jack T.
I
think? What are your 0-60 times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9
sec's, with me riding it, and
I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of
bike did you race, and what conditions? I saw a
race between the Ducati
Superbike team, and a Formula 1 car on TV, an F1 got spanked
nicely. I
would love to see your beast in action..
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 09:36:34 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (summary)
Jason Barnhart
wrote:
snip
> wot in upper rpms, and why does it not seem like I just
jumped possibly
> 50 hp, even though the car idles and accelerates smooth
as silk. I'm
> starting to think that the car is in fact faster, but
I'm paying
> attention to too many other things, like boost and IDC, to
notice. I
> won't know for sure till I go to the track. I'd
previously run
snip
Anyone spending lots of money on modifications
will probably want to
have access to some type of device to measure
performance (in addition
to the track). If you don't have access to an
AWD dyno, you should look
into getting a G-Tech for $139, http://www.gtechpro.com or the Home
Dyno
for $85, http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm.
This would
allow you to take quantitative before and after
measurements.
Good luck with your tuning,
Ken
- --
Two
wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 10:20:29 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
Hi
Andrew,
Sorry to hear that your VR4 problems were so expensive and caused
you to
sell. No doubt that these are high maintenance cars. When
buying one,
I think one should get the best possible condition that they
can
afford. I have seen a few that have looked like they were "rode
hard
and put away wet" and these should be avoided.
I've had my '91
for 16 months now. I bought it at 65K and it now has
93K. That
averages 1750 miles per month -- it's my daily driver. Here
is what
I've spent on maintenance:
Repairs & maintenance:
$540 Rear wheel
bearings (both sides), and one rear hub
$40 Boost Control Solenoid
Valve
$140 Starter
$40 Clutch slave cylinder
$540 4
struts
$110 Brake pads
$340 New front rotors and more brake pads
$75 plug wires
$200 Miscellaneous trim, shift boot, nut caps, washers,
gaskets, cover,
etc.
Mods:
$295 Eibach springs (I needed them right
away, so shipping killed me!)
$130 boost guage and A-pillar pod
$33
manual boost controller
$145 G-Tech
Consumables:
$2388
gasoline
$935 tires
$326 Oil filters & synthetic oils, K&N cleaner
kit
I'm sure the list is not complete, but pretty close. Anyway
that totals
$6277, or $392 a month, or $0.22 per mile! I haven't even
done a clutch
or tranny or 60K service yet, so I thought my costs have been
low!
Obviously I was wrong (wow, I'm glad you asked the question and
I
performed the exercise). Also this is parts only except for the
rear
bearings. If you always pay for labor you could probably double
the
maintenance cost.
I guess I'd better get a commuter car, although
I am planning on moving
closer to work this Spring or Summer. What an
eye opener!
Good luck Andrew. It's been a pleasure having you on
the list. Maybe
you'll still make it to San Diego though, yes?
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 19:26:43 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
"Barry E. King"
wrote:
>
> The manual does not state that you can set the
IDC. I am curious as to how
> and why this myth continues to
perpetuate. Is someone spreading this
> misinformation or is it some
strange translation in the manual or ??? Just
>
curious...
Must be the Blitz guys! :-) I think people are
confused because the
AVC-R has one mode to display and set boost, and another
mode to display
IDC and set BADC (but not set IDC or display BADC!), both of
which are
percentages. This confused me at first as well (and I believe
you were
the one who set me straight about a year and a half
ago).
> I also suggest that you run back through your installation
and ensure that
> all hoses are snug, not crimped or binding anywhere, and
that there are no
> leaks. It is remotely possibly that there is
something amiss in the
> installation.
This is what I'm thinking as
well. The IDC maxing out and then falling
off I think is an effect of
the boost falling off, not the cause, though
it does sound like the high IDC
levels are being reached too soon. It
clarify things to know what is
being shown at what RPMs under WOT in
third.
I don't think this
problem has anything to do with the other mods, air
flow, or fuel
delivey. Sounds like the wastegates are not being
controlled properly -
just doesn't make sense! Wasn't someone else
having a similar problem
last summer? The boost controller was seeing a
HIGHER pressure than it
should have and was opening the wastegates?
Pretty insidious.
Jason,
it sounds to me like your car is running as if it were stock (you
don't
notice any difference in performance, right?) and that the AVC-R
is doing no
more than monitoring boost and IDC. Double check all of
your solonoid
and wastegate connections, hoses and wires! You will know
when it's
right - it's a big difference!! Good luck...
-Jim
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 11:52:02 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tranny Question
xwing wrote:
>
> Dennis Moore
wrote:
> > stick on tranny was rocking back/forth as press/release gas
pedal. It
> > only happened in 5th, was most noticeable above 60
mph.
> > "sign of the end", or less ominous?
> > symptom of a
broken motor mount?
> > Dennis Moore 93 Stealth ES
>
>
Could be broken motormount, even with the cable shifter.
> Doubtful it is
anything inside the trans.
> Unless it is alot, could be something to
ignore, but check motormounts.
> Let us know what it is/how it goes after
month or 2...
> Jack T.
if I happen to say something stupid in the
next sentence, then I plead
ignorance.. :) if the motor
mount is the problem, wouldn't it affect all
gears? one reason I say
this, is I have the same problem, but in 3rd, which
coincidently is where I
have a bad synchro.. every other gear, the shifter
is rock
solid..
just adding my meager input.. :)
Dave
91
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 12:05:50 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: VR4 purchase..
I wanted to take a moment and thank all of you
that replied to my question
about purchase of a high milage 95 VR4..
Both pros and cons were addressed
and helped me decide that I probably should
try and wait for the "right" car..
the right car being a 99 for
$15K... hehe.. yeah, maybe in 10 years.. ;)
Dave
91
VR4
(may be keeping it after all.. darn.. I'm stuck with a
300hp AWD VR4.. ;)
.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 11:39:24 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
I am curious
what everyone else here has been spending on
>maintenance for the
91-93's
I've had a 94 VR4 for nearly a year. It has about
65,000 miles.
Except for 2 oil changes (Mobil 1), I have had NO maintenance
expenses. My
warranty covered a new Getrag transmission, so that cost me $100
to
replace. Of course, it's not a daily driver. I've put less than
5,000
miles on it so far.
I did break a brake rotor and fry some pads,
but that was during driver's
school. I don't think you mean those kinds of
expenses.
>
>Another question, I heard tell that someone here
raced a sportbike with
thier GT, Jack T. I
>think? What are your
0-60 times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with
me riding it,
and
>I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and
what
conditions? I saw a
>race between the Ducati Superbike team,
and a Formula 1 car on TV, an F1
got spanked
>nicely. I would
love to see your beast in action..
I was watching a motorcycle show on
Speedvision, and they were testing 600
cc bikes in the quarter. The little
suckers were turning 125+ mph in the 10s.
Rich/old
poop/VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 12:11:36 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Transfer Case
Hi guys;
There seems to be a preponderance of
transfer case failures (someone
just posted they went through 2) so I thought
getting a handle on the
problem might forewarn those who have yet to
encounter it Forewarned is
forearmed) . So, to those of you who have
encountered the problem..1)
What could have been done to prevent it including
driving habits or
maintenance strategies, and 2) what aftermarket
upgrades that will
prevent it from occurring (upgrading to new splines, etc).
All expert
advise would help establish a firm baseline on a problem that
seems
second only to the synchros.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 13:41:15 -0700
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Speed sensor
Does anyone know the location of the speed sensor? My
speedometer is off
and I would like to try adjust it.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 18:30:46 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
> I don't know if you actually
intended to reply to me or to the post you
> quoted since that quote isn't
from me, but I'll respond anyway.
A big sorry ! I responded to James
Berrys (note my wrong addressing to you) post
and yes it was my intention to
send it to the list :)
> I am intimately familiar with fouled
plugs. With mods and lots of high
> boost running (read high temps)
NGKs last maybe a year. Plus messing with
> mixture and big
injectors almost always ruins at least one set of plugs at
> some point
along the way.
I'll definitely need at least two sets until my new setup
will be up and running
then. I really wonder what the water injection does to
the plugs (good or bad).
We'll see soon.
> I wouldn't want to leave
them in for 100K even if the car were stock, as
> good as the NGKs
are.
I guess 20k with our mods. But this is the lowest price factor of
all.
Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 13:36:16 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
Howdy folks...
I'm having a crisis
here, need help. Just finished adding 15G turbos, 560
injectors, and a HKS
fuel pump, along with a G-force custom ECU (mapped for
my full set of mods).
What's happening is stalling above 4Krpm, or under
WOT. Not fuel cut, just
misfiring. I believe I'm blowing out the flame. I
called Robert at G-force,
he tells me to run .025" gap on a colder plug. I'm
already running one range
colder and REALLY don't want to reduce the gap
below .034, in fact I'd like
to open it back up.
Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units
to increase voltage to
the plugs?
Other solutions?
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC
15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel
pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs...and
running lousy)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 22:59:43 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (summary)
> I have 91k miles, a
weapon-r air filter, ngk plugs gapped to .035,
> accel wires, and gutted
cats (all 3). I have 2, maybe 3
>
problems/disappointments/questions... Should my injectors be
maxxing
> for several seconds
Unfortunately, they start to max out
at higher boost around 15psi.
> why does my boost drop as low as .49
atmosphere at wot in upper rpms, and
After rereading your notes I'm
starting to think about a retarded timing. This
is the only cause I see now
that is not related to the boost controller.
> why does it not seem
like I just jumped possibly
> 50 hp, even though the car idles and
accelerates smooth as silk.
Smooth accelerating sounds very stock to me
while the idle doesn't say anything.
Acceleration became neck-slapping after
the boost controller was installed and
tuned in.
> I'd previously
run 13.36@102.54 with a 1.96 60'
time.
You say this times where achieved without a boost controller and
with stock
boost. This leads me to the assumption that you already had a leak
in the
wastegate lines and you had an "unknown bleeder valve" installed that
finally
gave you more power. Note the G-Tech times from Jim, me and others.
All are
around 13.15 - 13.20 with 1.00 bars (14.2 psi) of boost and without a
bc I have
never been able to go below 13.70 during my tests.
> I
don't see any reason why I couldn't turn a possible mid 12 with a
perfect
> launch, if in fact I'm getting the proper boost.
No, I
doubt you'll ever see the 12's with any corrections with a healthy car.
We
have already heard some stories about this but just calculate the power
that is
needed to throw a 3800lbs car in 12.60 at aroun 118mph ! This will
lead you
around 480hp and this is only possible with boost around 1.2bars. I
measured 467
DIN hp at 1.25bars bit the car runned heavily into knock and
fuel cut around
1.27bars.
> since my cats are gutted my exhaust
would flow better, would this make
> it harder to maintain boost as there
is less restriction.
Your stock turbos do not gain a lot if anything due
to the gutted cats. But this
should help to keep boost up in the higher rpm
due to the less restriction.
> Even though the boost might drop, I
would still probably flow more air than
> with cats, right?
No, as
the turbos do not flow more without increasing them. But you lowered
the
exhaust backpressure and therefore the temperature and pressure against
the
turbine wheel that finally helps to keep them spooling.
I'm almost
sure you do have a problem within your setup. A leak or wrongly
tapped in. I
whished I could have a look at everything.
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 17:03:04 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Spark crisis...HELP
Chris,
Awesome with
the mods, did you end up installing yourself? At any rate,
we have a
modified version of the MSD DIS4 I run on my Stealth that might
help
you. But why did you go lower on your heat range!? All you
probably need to
do is through in some NGK PFR6J-11's at .032-.034 and you
should be good to
go.
Mike (cant believe someone told you .025 - what
a cracka!)
In a message dated 3/26/99 4:37:22 PM Eastern Standard
Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
writes:
<< Howdy folks...
I'm having a crisis
here, need help. Just finished adding 15G turbos, 560
injectors, and a
HKS fuel pump, along with a G-force custom ECU (mapped for
my full set
of mods). What's happening is stalling above 4Krpm, or under
WOT. Not
fuel cut, just misfiring. I believe I'm blowing out the flame. I
called
Robert at G-force, he tells me to run .025" gap on a colder plug.
I'm
already running one range colder and REALLY don't want to reduce
the gap
below .034, in fact I'd like to open it back
up.
Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units to
increase voltage to
the plugs?
Other
solutions?
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos,
bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs...and
running lousy)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 17:04:12 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Spark crisis...HELP
Whoops.. sorry, that last mail was meant to be
private.
Mike
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 22:47:08 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
> I'm interested in the purchase,
but have a question. WHat does this come
> with? I assume we keep the
stock flywheel, but how about the other parts
> (disk obviously, pressure
plate, ???)
Good question and I'll place it on the FAQ of the page that
will be up Sunday
morning (I do not arrive earlier).
The RPS units
come with the Disc and Pressure plate. New Throw out bearings
should be
installed with the new clutch and we can get them together with the
clutch
when needed for $30. The stock flywheel will stay and may be turned
if
necessary.
Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 23:06:33 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
Hey Chris,
> Just finished adding
15G turbos, 560 injectors, and a HKS fuel pump, along
> with a G-force
custom ECU fully full set of mods).
Hmmm, sounds good :)
>
called Robert at G-force, he tells me to run .025" gap on a colder plug.
I'm
> already running one range colder and REALLY don't want to reduce the
gap
> below .034, in fact I'd like to open it back up.
No, Rob is
true due to the advanced timing and the gap should be what he
supposes. But I
also would opt for an AFC as the fuel MAP may be right but still
too rich in
this region.
> Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units to
increase voltage to
> the plugs?
Hmmm, give the plugs a try and if
it helps the bigger spark energy my help then.
If not then the fuel map is
not properly tuned in. You know, not all 560 can be
compared to each other
and therefore I'm feeling that too much fuek causes the
problem.
Hope
this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 14:11:55 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Jim Mathews was possibly on a
hot scent when he wrote:
> snip
>
> Jason, it sounds to me
like your car is running as if it were stock (you
> don't notice any
difference in performance, right?) and that the AVC-R
> is doing no more
than monitoring boost and IDC. Double check all of
> your solonoid
and wastegate connections, hoses and wires! You will know
> when
it's right - it's a big difference!!
Jason...is there any chance at all
that you've spliced a wrong wire in the ECU? I know
I triple checked
mine, and then checked it again for absolute certainty before plugging
it
back together. Paranoia is a family trait :) You used the M3 configuration
for
Generation 2 right ?(M1 for Generation
1).
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 17:11:18 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark
crisis...HELP
Chris, I think I recall a post from Brad Badell about
Jacobs not being good
with his setup. I may be mistaken on who wrote it. With
a stock NGk I was
running .028 Gap & worked fine except for gas mileage.
G-Force is prob correct
about the gap on a colder plug. If you can, check not
only if the plugs &
wires are good...Check the coil too. Mine was bad
& I did not even know it.
Try pulling the plug or wire to see the color
& intensity of the spark. I
recall Brian at GT Alley was running like 3
MSD units but it took up a lot of
room.
Arty
In a message dated
3/26/99 4:37:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: Spark crisis...HELP
Date: 3/26/99
4:37:22 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com (Chris
Winkley)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
('Team3S')
Howdy folks...
I'm having a
crisis here, need help. Just finished adding 15G turbos, 560
injectors,
and a HKS fuel pump, along with a G-force custom ECU (mapped for
my
full set of mods). What's happening is stalling above 4Krpm, or
under
WOT. Not fuel cut, just misfiring. I believe I'm blowing out the
flame. I
called Robert at G-force, he tells me to run .025" gap on a
colder plug. I'm
already running one range colder and REALLY don't want
to reduce the gap
below .034, in fact I'd like to open it back
up.
Has anyone tried one of the Jacobs Electronics units to
increase voltage to
the plugs?
Other
solutions?
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos,
bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump,
GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, front
mounted
intercoolers, Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires,
HKS double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback
exhaust, GReddy turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs...and
running lousy)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 17:13:41 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Speed sensor
Well, it's located on the transmission, almost
directly below the throttle
body. But it is NOT adjustable. Plus, if your car
is a non-turbo, it has a
cable, not a sensor. If the cable is bad, it could
cause the speedometer to
be off. You're not running other than stock tire
size, are you? Good luck....
Wayne
At 01:41 PM 3/26/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>Does anyone know the location of the speed sensor? My speedometer
is off
>and I would like to try adjust it.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 14:59:59 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Transfer Case
My first TC lasted 9K, my second is still OK at
60K. Here is what I
learned:
1. Warm the engine and
transmission before working the car hard;
2. Never, ever, ever launch a VR4
(or any other AWD) by flooring the gas
and just dumping the clutch.
With AWD the grip is so high that the
transmission take all the shock and it
will break.
Transmission warm-up and "feathered clutch and feathered gas"
are mandatory
for safe (and the fastest) launches.
Steve C
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 19:40:00 -0500
From: Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
- ------
=_NextPart_000_01BE77C0.F3BB09E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
I
bought my 91 new along with an extended warranty for 7 years. The
=
only problems I encountered were brake rotors (changed at 15K), the
=
speedo (changed at 20K), lifters (make a "ticking" sound and changed at
=
40K) and trannys. I've had three transmissions changed under warranty
=
because they caught between first and second. Never broke down, but
=
just didn't shift as it should. I too was contemplating selling the
car =
to go with a new one under warranty, but simply can't find anything
=
under $60K with the performance, style, and ride. I guess I'll keep
=
this one until it breaks me. Even high repair bills are no match new
=
car payments until everything goes at once! Good luck with the
Accord. =
I considered it, but was unsure of the performance. How
does it =
compare?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew
Brilliant [SMTP:andrewb@infowest.com]
Sent:
Friday, March 26, 1999 12:16 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Maintenance question, GSXR 750 vs 3000GT
At the reccomdation of
my friends/family, and pshycologist. I sold my =
VR4 and bought a
98
Accord EX, with every option. It is sad to see it go, but after, the
2 =
transfer cases,
clutch, master/slave cylinders, motor mount, and
transmission, 3 weeks =
of rental cars (all
last month); I am broke.
I am curious what everyone else here has been =
spending on
maintenance
for the 91-93's Or was my situation an isolated case. The
=
accord still has
90k miles of warranty, so I am not going to worry about
_anything_.
Another question, I heard tell that someone here raced a
sportbike with =
thier GT, Jack T. I
think? What are your 0-60
times? My GSXR 750, timed at 2.9 sec's, with =
me riding it,
and
I've read as low as 2.8. What kind of bike did you race, and what
=
conditions? I saw a
race between the Ducati Superbike team, and a
Formula 1 car on TV, an F1 =
got spanked
nicely. I would love to see
your beast in action..
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
=
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
------ =_NextPart_000_01BE77C0.F3BB09E0
Content-Type:
application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
base64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://9AAAcwwIugVul3vgFAAAgwwIugVul3vgELAACACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAADhQAAAAAA
AAMAAoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABCFAAAAAAAAAwAFgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAA
UoUAALcNAAADAAmACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAABhQAAAAAAAB4AH4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAA
AABGAAAAAFSFAAABAAAABAAAADguMAALACOACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAAOhQAAAAAAAAMA
JIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABGFAAAAAAAAAwAmgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAGIUA
AAAAAAAeADWACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA2hQAAAQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAHgA2gAggBgAAAAAA
wAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAN4UAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4AN4AIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADiFAAAB
AAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAD0AAQAAAAUAAABSRTogAAAAAAMADTT9NwAAZiM=
-
------ =_NextPart_000_01BE77C0.F3BB09E0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 20:39:34 -0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
change to synthetic oil
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE77C8.C233ECE0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I own a 92 dodge stealth with 17,500 on it. I want to
change oil to =
redline 10w40 synthetic. Somebody told me that before i
switch over to =
the synthetic that i should use a cleaner to clean out the
petroleum oil =
that is already in the car! Can anybody tell me if this is
what you =
should do.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE77C8.C233ECE0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I own a
92 dodge stealth with 17,500 =
on it. I=20
want to change oil to redline
10w40 synthetic. Somebody told me that =
before i=20
switch over to the
synthetic that i should use a cleaner to clean out =
the=20
petroleum oil
that is already in the car! Can anybody tell me if this is
=
what you should
do.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE77C8.C233ECE0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 26 Mar 1999 21:14:49 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: change to synthetic oil
Hi Ken;
I own a 92 Stealth TT and
found an oil flush rinsed out the baked fosil
oils and deposits which caused
ticking, restricted lines, etc. Once
flushed and Mobil 1 sythetic was put in,
I noticed a lack of ticking.
When or if it comes back, I plan to use a flush
again.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #135
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm