--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #134
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Thursday, March 25 1999 Volume
01 : Number
134
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 20:06:36 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Dropping the pipes
>I have found someone who might be able to
fabricate an exhaust system
>without worrying about certain niggling
little rules.
>
>If he agrees, I'm going to have him gut my precats,
remove the cat, and
>build a new exhaust system.
>I'll store the old
exhaust, cat and all, in case my state invokes annual
>emission
inspections.
>
>Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do
anything nasty? I know I
>might get flames out the back, but are there any
other problems to worry
>about?
>
>Rich/old poop/plural
champion/94 VR4
This "Poor old poop's" question is: What does
the
elimination of the cats (both pre and main),
do to the computations
the OEM ECU makes?
Is the timing, a/f ratio, or anything changed?
Thanks
for any info; the vehicle of which I speak
is a '95 3K VR-4.
Regards
ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:08:01 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS clutch
Group Purchase !
I already have one. Otherwise I would joining on this
GP. Looks awesome.I Have
not had it installed yet so I can't comment on what
HP it will hold. It took
about 2 months to get. Be patient.
Arty 91
VR-4
In a message dated 3/24/99 5:52:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, xwing@execpc.com
writes:
<<
Subj: Re: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Date: 3/24/99 5:52:35 PM
Eastern Standard Time
From: xwing@execpc.com (xwing)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Roger
Gerl wrote:
> I found "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the best
solutions.
> list price $650 we can get for under $460; the more
people, the
> better the discount we can get ! I'll organize
GP so clutches will be sent
> directly by distributor who made offer
located in US.
> price NOT include ship. I'll update GP
status
> >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:55:13 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
I can answer two of these. The
alarm arms when you lock the car and
will disarm when using the key to
unlock. If it goes off when you open
the deck lid, try holding down the hatch
till you turn the key all the
way. Mine does this if I just turn it part way
and it pops up too
fast.
There is a mod for getting the fog lights on
without the head lights
on. Either on 3000GT.com or 3SI.org.
I live in
Kentucky 15 miles south of Cincinnati, OH and work for a
Canadian company out
of Mississuaga.
ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 22:04:51 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Ah, that would be an
affirmative there Ken. I must have been typing in
mirror image. Shouldn't
stay up so late reading this list. YES. Ken is
right. I screwed up. Negative
camber is wheel squat and to bring it
back to positive or neutral You MUST
elongate the holes in the front
TOWARDS the wheel and the rear towards the
differential.
So guys, ah any credibility left
here?????
Ron-a-roid
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> Good
post Ron, but methinks you have it backwards (or maybe I'm
> backwards
;)). Won't elongating the front mounting toward the engine,
> and
elongating the lower A arm mount toward the wheel increase negative
>
camber?
>
> Ron Thompson wrote:
> snip
> > On the
front you must elongate the shock tower mounting holes to give
> >
extra positive camber. This means make the holes longer toward the
> >
engine bay, not toward the wheel. Do it nice and clean, don't widen
>
> snip
> >
> > The rear you must elongate the sub frame
where the lower control arm
> > attaches near the differential. The
upper arm has the cam adjuster for
> > the camber adjustment and the
lower is fixed. Again, don't widen, just
> > elongate, this time toward
the wheel. Make sure you keep the hole true
> snip
>
>
--
> Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
>
>
Ken Middaugh
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> (619)
455-4510
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:41:17 -0600
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: turbo 101 [ yet again ] long
Check out what I
found....
http://www.wps.com/LPG/LPG-carb-size.html
It's
a formula for calculating cfm on forced induction engines. I don't know if
it's
applicable for our engine but at 15 psi I get a max flow of 752cfm or
376cfm per turbo.
I think this means that at 15 psi 15Gs are perfect
(although a little large) and the
GT355s that flow 423cfm are
overkill.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
91 R/T TT
james berry
wrote:
> this is an attempted engineering analysis of the
turbo
> size/flow issue. The numbers I'm using were posted by
>
others and may not be correct --- it matters not !
> The basic principle
is correct.
>
> The three turbos talked about are ---- [ Approximate
values ]
> 9B --- 300 CFM at 15 PSI
> 13G--- 365
CFM at 15 PSI
> 15G---400 CFM at 15
PSI
> The key at this point is that all three are rated at 15 PSI,
our
> 1 BAR target boost level.
>
> The rating for the 9B
implies that it can provide from 0 to 300
> Cubic Feet per Minute and
still maintain a boost level of at least
> 15 PSI. It further implies that
for flow rates beyond 300 CFM the
> pressure will not be 15 PSI. In
fact if you exceed the rated flow
> the boost will drop. How much --
I don't know, although I'm sure
> charts exist that cover its full
operational range.Similarly the
> 13g and 15 G are rated 365 CFM and
400 CFM.
>
> The pressurized air created is routed to the intake
plenum via
> the intercoolers [ more later ] and the throttle body. The
throttle
> body cares not how this pressure was generated ---- it
doesn't
> care if its a 9 B a 15 G or a six pack of gerbils on a
treadmill.
> What the throttle body does care about though is CFM
--- if the
> engine is demanding more than 300 CFM then the 9B
cannot
> provide that amount of air at our 15 PSI target. The result ??
A
> drop in boost pressure. To get in excess of 300 CFM you need
> a
larger turbo!!
>
> The increase in the temperature of the air in the
induction system
> is primarily because the air was compressed. Boyles law
sez there
> is a fixed relationship between pressure, volume and
temperature.
> e.g. if you increase the temperature in a fixed
volume then the
> pressure goes up. if you increase the
pressure in a fixed volume
> the temperature goes up [ our case ].
If you increase volume at a
> fixed temperature then pressure goes down
etc.etc.
>
> In our case some additional heating is caused by the
turbo housing,
> being driven by exhaust it has to retain heat.
additionally some heat
> is picked up as a result of the high heat in the
engine compartment.
> The major source of heat however, is that
caused by pressurization
> of air in the turbo --- again it makes no
difference if the pressure is
> created by the 15G or our steroid enhanced
gerbils. The job of the
> intercooler is to reduce the intake charge
temperature and thus
> maximize the charge density.
>
> Bottom
line ---- It appears as though our cars exceed the 300 CFM
> level sence
boost drops at high RPM with the stock turbo.
> The 9 B is fine as long as
you don't need sustained
> boost of 15 PSI beyond the 300 CFM level.
If you want 20 PSI for
> Autobahn speed runs then bigger is better.
.
>
> The ability to calculate the flow rate based on displacement,
RPM,
> volumetric efficiency,charge density etc. etc. probably
requires
> a suprecomputer and is best left to the automotive engineering
folk.
>
>
Jim
> ------93
"arrest me red" Stealth TT
-----
>
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
>
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
>
[ suspension mods next ]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 19:46:14 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Roger;
Mark me down for one as
well. That makes you, me and Jack, so far, and the 3 GP quota
has been met.
Anyting after this is gravy and the price should drop further, am I
right?
E-mail particulars personally.
Thanks
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 21:54:58 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re:RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Just before I checked my e-mail I
ordered a RPS Turbo Carbon Clutch from
Accelerated Accessories. OOPs, bad
timing on my part! It must have been 2
minutes after I ordered the clutch
that I check my e-mail to find out that
you guys are trying to do a group
purchase. Well, you might wanna try to do
a group purchase from Accererated
Accessories because little ol' me just got
it from them for $450, and I
ordered only one. The clutch IS backordered for
3 weeks though.... and the
clutch will be dropped shipped to me from RPS.
might wanna try
them?
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
91 Stealth
RT/TT
>
> Roger Gerl wrote:
> > I found "RPS
TURBO CARBON" as one of the best solutions.
> > list price $650 we can
get for under $460; the more people, the
> > better the discount we can
get ! I'll organize GP so clutches will be
sent
> > directly
by distributor who made offer located in US.
> > price NOT include
ship. I'll update GP status
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:05:11 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hood Insulation / Scoops
For your interest when doing the mod
:
The hood scoops list @ 36.28 each, your price being $27.21. The
gaskets
for the scoops list @ $ 7.79, your price being $5.84. We can do
either COD or
Credit Card whichever you prefer. Thanks for responding
to our ad!
Dave Daniels
Conicelli Mitsubishi
(800)
892-8994
- -------------
I check out the local cost and also if
they come already painted or not !
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:35:33 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Friends, ... here's a little easter
gift for your beloved car !
More power = more problems with the stock
clutch. This equation is very true and
therefore it's time for a new clutch.
I shopped around a little bit and found
the "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the
best solutions. Till today I only heard
good things about it and I think it's
a really good choice.
The list price is around $650 (ouch) but we can get
it for ..... under $460 ....
when more than 3 people do join the GP ! But for
sure, the more people the
better the discount we can get ! The GP also
includes the cheaper "RPS Turbo"
and the "RPS Carbon" (for the NA people who
need a new clutch or run on NO2) and
the price will be around $420 or less
but the price for the TURBO CARBON is very
good in my opinion.
I'll
try to organize the GP while the clutches will be sent to the
participants
directly by the distributor who made the great offer to us
located in the US.
Please note that the price do NOT include shipping. I'll
update the GP status
every day and will also create a web-site on my pages
before the GP starts on
Saturday so everyone can check out the current price
and how many people are
signed up. I'll post the link when it is
ready.
The GP starts on Saturday, March 27 1999 and ends Sunday, April 4
1999. We
haven't planned to make the GP longer and after this date the
selling price
increases again above $520 street price !
So, everyone
who likes the power to be distributed to the tranny correctly
should email me
personally(robby@swissonline.ch). I'll
register the GP
participants and will post more information when the prices
drops due to the
fact that we are getting more people than expected.
I
hope this helps a little in money saving,
Regards,
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT ... too much power is comming for the stock clutch
:)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:05:15 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dropping the pipes
> This "Poor old poop's" question is:
What does the
> elimination of the cats (both pre and main),
> do to
the computations the OEM ECU makes?
> Is the timing, a/f ratio, or
anything changed?
No, it only may take a little longer until the O2
sensors are heated up. This
may end it a rougher idle when the car is
cold.
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:08:39 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Hey Darc,
> Mark me down
for one as well. That makes you, me and Jack, so far, and the
> 3 GP quota
has been met.
We are 5 at leats !
> Anyting after this is gravy
and the price should drop further, am I right?
True, we're on $450 now
and I hope to get 10 people together.
Maybe somebody can send this to the
other lists as well ?
Later,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:10:47 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re:RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Hey Jose,
Thanks for the
information !!!!!
> Well, you might wanna try to do a group purchase
from Accererated Accessories
> because little ol' me just got it from them
for $450, and I ordered only one.
You already got the group purchase
price, hehe.
Regards,
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:20:28 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
> Are you saying that your
IDC fell while you were still WOT in third as RPMs climbed?
IDC demands
should not decrease under these conditions, which may shed some light on
your
problem.
This particular time I was watching, yes. I assumed this
was a result of boost dropping
and there not being a requirement for more
fuel.
Unfortunately, the car is no longer a daily driver, and I may not
be as 'in-tune' with
it as I thought. Perhaps it's still learning, I'll
just have to do some testing with
the controller on and
off.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:27:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Tranny Question
Driving home last night, I noticed that the stick on my
manny-tranny was
rocking back and forth as I would press and release the gas
pedal. It
only happened in 5th gear, and was most noticeable above 60
mph. When I
(gently
Is this a "sign of the end", or something
less ominous? Could it be a
symptom of a broken motor
mount?
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth
ES
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need
it.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 08:50:07 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes
Actually, i'm thinking it will set a check
engine light, because he was
talking about doing this on a 95 model i belive.
95's have 02 sensors
before and after the pre-cats, if you remove the cats,
the ECU will know
because the signals will be the same, before and after. If
i'm wrong about
95 having 4 sensors, then forget i said
anything....
Wayne
At 09:05 AM 3/25/99 +0100, you
wrote:
>> This "Poor old poop's" question is: What does
the
>> elimination of the cats (both pre and main),
>> do to
the computations the OEM ECU makes?
>> Is the timing, a/f ratio, or
anything changed?
>
>No, it only may take a little longer until the
O2 sensors are heated up. This
>may end it a rougher idle when the car is
cold.
>
>Regards,
>Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 09:57:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Question
Guess I should finish the first paragraph...
When
the shifter is "rocked backwards", if I (gently) press it forward, I
meet
with resistance. If I were to force it forward, it would feels like
it would
start grinding.
Suggestions welcome
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth
ES
Experience is something you don't get until just after you need
it.
On Thu, 25 Mar 1999, Dennis Moore wrote:
> Driving home
last night, I noticed that the stick on my manny-tranny was
> rocking back
and forth as I would press and release the gas pedal. It
> only
happened in 5th gear, and was most noticeable above 60 mph. When I
>
(gently
>
> Is this a "sign of the end", or something less
ominous? Could it be a
> symptom of a broken motor mount?
>
> Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
> 93 Stealth
ES
>
> Experience is something you don't get until just after you
need it.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 06:58:37 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: alarm, climate temperature display (was: Paint follow up and
questions)
Bill Miller wrote:
>
> Genesiscon Lehir
wrote:
>
> > - When the SECURITY is
engaged, I can open either door with the key, no
> > problem. But
if I open the hatch with the key, then the alarm will trigger....normal
?
>
> Your hatch lock switch is dirty or you didn't turn the key
far enough. It is possible to
> open the hatch without disarming the
alarm. You need to turn the key all the way until it
> stops to disarm the
alarm.
If you disarm the alarm in this way (key in hatch, hatch open, no
doors
opened), will the alarm rearm when the hatch is closed?
>
> - The clima is displaying in °F....and, hum, I'd
prefer to have it in
> > °C....any trick ?
Not sure how to
switch the display, but mine reads °F and Roger's reads
°C!
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 17:08:27 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Redline engine oil
Hi
Have anyone tested Redline ENGINE oil
?
10-30 or 10-40?
/Mikael
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:18:32 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Redline engine oil
Yes...I've used 10-30 for all but the
first 3000 miles. When I had some
work done a couple of years ago, the
mechanic said that all of the bearings
looked great after 70K
miles.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Åkesson <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, March 25, 1999 9:13 AM
Subject: Team3S: Redline engine
oil
>Hi
>
>Have anyone tested Redline ENGINE oil
?
>
>10-30 or
10-40?
>
>
>/Mikael
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 12:52:32 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Active Exhaust
Quick question about the Active
Exhaust....
My car has sat all winter and I seem to remember exhaust
coming out of each
side of the exhaust. Last night I took it out for
the first time this year
and I only have exhaust coming out of the drivers
side(I could see the
vapor, it was about 30 degrees)
I'm not sure if
the switch even works. The light on the dash changes from
nothing to
tour if I switch it, but I do not hear anything(Servos, etc)
switching in the
back.
It was my understanding that the exhaust defaulted to sport and you
had to
switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if it is rusted, it should
be
rusted in sport(I would think.)
Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust
out of both sides right??
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 11:20:17 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Active Exhaust
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Wendlandt, Mark (MN51) [mailto:MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 25, 1999 10:53 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
Team3S: Active Exhaust
Quick question about the Active
Exhaust....
<snip>
It was my understanding that the exhaust
defaulted to sport and you had to
switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if
it is rusted, it should be
rusted in sport(I would think.)
Anyway...I
should be seeing exhaust out of both sides right??
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
=================================
Mark...
I'm
not the best to answer this, since the feature was dropped by 95, but
it's my
understanding that it automatically switched at a certain speed. In
either
case, since the exhaust is not truly a dual, the right side (which
involves
two 90 degree bends and adds three or four feet of metal) is always
going to
produce much less vapor and/or emissions than the shorter, more
direct route
on the left. Was someone revving the engine for you? As I
recall, my stock
exhaust never produced any output on the right side at
an
idle.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 14:39:05 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Active
Exhaust
If I recall, the tour setting is the standard setting. Not sport.
The motor
when activated sets into sport mode. If the motor dies you'd be
left in tour,
not sport mode.
Arty 91 VR-4
<< Subj: RE:
Team3S: Active Exhaust
Date: 3/25/99 11:23:16 AM Pacific Standard
Time
From: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com (Chris
Winkley)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
('stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com')
-----Original
Message-----
From: Wendlandt, Mark (MN51) [mailto:MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 25, 1999 10:53 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
Team3S: Active Exhaust
Quick question about the Active
Exhaust....
<snip>
It was my understanding
that the exhaust defaulted to sport and you had to
switch it to
tour(which I never did) so, if it is rusted, it should be
rusted in
sport(I would think.)
Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust out
of both sides right??
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 14:54:07 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Active Exhaust
According to my service manual, when car is
started the exhaust goes
back to sport mode. Also above 3500 rpm, the
exhaust goes into sport
mode automatically even if you have the tour mode set
on.
But more definitely, in sport mode you should only see gases coming
out
of the driver's side. In tour mode both sides.
I hope this
helps,
Jose
Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
>
> If I recall, the tour setting is the standard setting.
Not sport. The motor
> when activated sets into sport mode. If the motor
dies you'd be left in tour,
> not sport mode.
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
>> From: Wendlandt, Mark (MN51) [mailto:MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com]
>>
Subject: Team3S: Active Exhaust
>>
>> Quick question
about the Active Exhaust....
>> <snip>
>>
>> It was my understanding that the exhaust defaulted to sport
and you had to
>> switch it to tour(which I never did) so, if it
is rusted, it should be
>> rusted in sport(I would
think.)
>>
>> Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust out
of both sides right??
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 14:43:38 -0600
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
I'm interested in the purchase, but
have a question. WHat does this come
with? I assume we keep the stock
flywheel, but how about the other parts
(disk obviously, pressure plate, ???)
Thanks
Todd 91 RT/TT
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
>
Friends, ... here's a little easter gift for your beloved car !
>
>
More power = more problems with the stock clutch. This equation is very true
and
> therefore it's time for a new clutch. I shopped around a little bit
and found
> the "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the best solutions. Till
today I only heard
> good things about it and I think it's a really good
choice.
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put
your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 14:44:58 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Using an IR thermometer
I'll be getting a handheld infrared
thermometer soon.
Have any of you have ever used one to help set up or
diagnose a road race
car?.
If so, please forward any tips on using it
to check tires, brakes and so
on; i.e., what do you scan, where, how, and
what does the data tell you?
On a tire, for example, I suppose I would
take temps across the profile.
But what does that tell me? What do I do if
one part is hotter than another?
How fast do you have to make the
measurements? Immediately upon leaving the
track? Or can it wait until we get
back to the paddock?
All advice welcome.
Rich/ol poop/94
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 13:25:44 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Using an IR thermometer
> On a tire, for example, I
suppose I would take temps across the profile.
> But what does that tell
me? What do I do if one part is hotter than another?
For tires, it tells
you if your camber and inflation pressure is
correct. The idea is to
adjust these paramters until the temperature is
the same in the center and
both edges. Before you take the measurement,
you are supposed to heat
up the tires on the track with hard cornering
(since that is no doubt what
you're trying to maximize), then
immediately take the measurements.
I've heard of taking these
temperatures using a tire pyrometer but not an
infrared thermometer.
Good luck and let us know how it
goes,
Ken
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:22:07 -0500
From: Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
Subject: Team3S: looking
for spark plugs
Still looking for more feedback on the best plugs to
use. Have a 91 VR4. Barry advised that the NGKs worked well for him
( PFR6J-11 ). Have seen several others using HKS - have not heard of
them. What is your experience? Where can I find them?
Pete
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:24:52 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS
clutch Group Purchase !
hey Roger, should i burn up the centerforce
so I can get one of these.:)
Bob
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, March 24, 1999 5:53 AM
Subject: Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase
!
>Friends, ... here's a little easter gift for your beloved car
!
>
>More power = more problems with the stock clutch. This equation
is very
true and
>therefore it's time for a new clutch. I shopped
around a little bit and
found
>the "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the
best solutions. Till today I only
heard
>good things about it and I
think it's a really good choice.
>
>The list price is around $650
(ouch) but we can get it for ..... under $460
....
>when more than 3
people do join the GP ! But for sure, the more people the
>better the
discount we can get ! The GP also includes the cheaper "RPS
Turbo"
>and
the "RPS Carbon" (for the NA people who need a new clutch or run on
NO2)
and
>the price will be around $420 or less but the price for the TURBO
CARBON is
very
>good in my opinion.
>
>I'll try to organize
the GP while the clutches will be sent to the
participants
>directly by
the distributor who made the great offer to us located in
the
US.
>Please note that the price do NOT include shipping. I'll
update the GP
status
>every day and will also create a web-site on my
pages before the GP starts
on
>Saturday so everyone can check out the
current price and how many people
are
>signed up. I'll post the link
when it is ready.
>
>The GP starts on Saturday, March 27 1999 and
ends Sunday, April 4 1999. We
>haven't planned to make the GP longer and
after this date the selling price
>increases again above $520 street price
!
>
>So, everyone who likes the power to be distributed to the
tranny correctly
>should email me personally(robby@swissonline.ch). I'll register the
GP
>participants and will post more information when the prices drops due
to
the
>fact that we are getting more people than
expected.
>
>I hope this helps a little in money
saving,
>
>Regards,
>Roger, Switzerland
>93'3000GT ...
too much power is comming for the stock clutch :)
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 18:24:53 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Lots of
parts for sale
OK guys, poor old Adam has some more parts he needs to
sell ASAP... So if you
are interested in any of these, please e-mail me
directly at
VR4POWER@aol.com...
I have the
following for sale, all are in perfect condition:
1 HKS EVC III
Electronic Boost Controller
1 APEX Super AFC Fuel Computer
1 APEX
ITC Ignition Timing Controller
1 HKS Peak Hold EGT Gauge
1 HKS
Peak Hold Boost Gauge
1 K&N Air Fuel Ratio Gauge
1 HKS
Upgraded Intank Fuel Pump
6 Stock Fuel Injectors
6 RC Engineering
560 cc Fuel Injectors
I think that's it for now... E-mail me for
prices....
Thank You,
Adam Weltz
Red 1996 3000 GT VR-4
11.25
@ 125.43mph.... Full Interior, Street Car!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 15:29:26 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tranny Question
> snip
>
> Is this a "sign of the
end", or something less ominous? Could it be a
> symptom of a broken
motor mount?
>
Sounds like your motor mount/s tranny mount...check
all of em.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 15:33:50 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Pete Ryner [mailto:pryner@ij.net]
Sent:
Thursday, March 25, 1999 3:22 PM
To: Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)
Subject:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Still looking for more feedback on the
best plugs to use. Have a 91 VR4.
Barry advised that the NGKs worked
well for him ( PFR6J-11 ). Have seen
several others using HKS - have
not heard of them. What is your experience?
Where can I find
them?
Pete
=========================
Pete...
I'm using
the HKS double platinum plugs. I was told they are made by NGK. I
bought one
range colder than stock. If you want the exact part number,
e-mail me
privately, and I'll check tonight. They've been in the car for 18
months
(about 8K miles) and are working great. I pulled the front bank two
months
ago and found them to be in great shape (gap holding on the money).
I
purchased them locally (Portland, OR) for half the price of the NGK brand
(I
paid $7.00 a plug, the NGK were quoted at $14.00 a plug). It seems there's
a
WIDE variation in what people are paying for NGKs.
One interesting
side note, they have a reddish brown deposit on them. When
asking around
about this, I was told this is the result of using octane
booster. Not sure
if this is true, but they weren't fouled, just discolored.
Anyone else
experience this?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:20:56 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Hi All,
I have the Greddy
plugs, and they are also made by NGK.
George
- --- Chris
Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
wrote:
> Pete...
>
> I'm using the HKS double platinum
plugs. I was told
> they are made by NGK. I
> bought one range
colder than
stock.
_________________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:27:13 -0500
From: Pete Ryner <pryner@ij.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
looking for spark plugs
- ------
=_NextPart_000_01BE76F5.99C2D420
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Chris,
Thanks for the info. I'd like the part
number if available. The best =
price I've found so far is at Pep Boys
at about $18 for the NGK which =
are special order. I've seen ads for
the bosch quad tip platinum but =
have seen no feedback on how they
are. I see you have Magnecore wires =
and have a beefed up throttle
body. Can you give any tips in those =
areas? I don't know if you
saw my first email, but I am experiencing a =
loss of acceleration.
Sometimes the throttle pedal pushes back on my =
foot and I lose
performance. The plugs have never been changed and the =
throttle body
never cleaned. I have around 50K on the car. I had it in =
the
shop last year to replace the lifters (under warranty) and had them =
change
the timing belt and tensioner as a precaution. Any advice on how =
to
best clean the throttle body, or is it just best to take it to
=
someone. I've done a lot of work on older cars, but haven't had to
=
touch a car since I bought this one as I had purchased an extended
=
warranty which finally expired last year. Thanks for any help you can
=
provide.
Pete
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley
[SMTP:cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com]
Sent:
Thursday, March 25, 1999 6:34 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Pete Ryner [mailto:pryner@ij.net]
Sent:
Thursday, March 25, 1999 3:22 PM
To: Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)
Subject:
Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Still looking for more feedback on the
best plugs to use. Have a 91 =
VR4.
Barry advised that the NGKs
worked well for him ( PFR6J-11 ). Have seen
several others using HKS -
have not heard of them. What is your =
experience?
Where can I find
them?
=20
Pete
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
Pete...
I'm
using the HKS double platinum plugs. I was told they are made by =
NGK.
I
bought one range colder than stock. If you want the exact part
number,
e-mail me privately, and I'll check tonight. They've been in the car
for =
18
months (about 8K miles) and are working great. I pulled the front
bank =
two
months ago and found them to be in great shape (gap holding on
the =
money). I
purchased them locally (Portland, OR) for half the price
of the NGK =
brand (I
paid $7.00 a plug, the NGK were quoted at $14.00 a
plug). It seems =
there's a
WIDE variation in what people are paying for
NGKs.
One interesting side note, they have a reddish brown deposit on
them. =
When
asking around about this, I was told this is the result of
using octane
booster. Not sure if this is true, but they weren't fouled, just
=
discolored.
Anyone else experience this?
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator =
dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body,
Magnecore 8.5mm wires, =
HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy
PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe,
GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
------ =_NextPart_000_01BE76F5.99C2D420
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-
------ =_NextPart_000_01BE76F5.99C2D420--
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our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:39:39 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: (Fwd)
Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Forwarded
message:
From: Self <Single-user mode>
To:
William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Reply-to: millebi@kw.igs.net
Date: Mon, 22 Mar
1999 21:43:14 -0500
If anyone is interested in a way to see the air flow
all you need to do is :
1. Get a bunch of pieces of wool (1"-2") and some
tape (100 mph should work ;) )
2. Tape the wool to the hood (only one end!)
at reasonably spaced intervals (6" grid)
3. Have a friend take a ride with
you on a low wind day and note the pattern that the
wool is making.
(Separate car or same car... just use some common sense and don't run
anyone
else off the road while making notes.)
If you see the wool being held in
a reasonably straight line then that is the air flow at
that point. If the
wool is flipping around all over the place then the air is quite
turbulent
at that place. If the wool points in an upward direction and isn't lying flat
against the car then you can expect that the air movement is "swirling" at
that point. If
you want to see if you're getting air exiting or entering the
engine, take off one of the
strut tower covers and tape some of the wool
around it. If the wool gets sucked into the
hole then you won't get any air
exhausted from that point.
What this means is that your best bet for
getting air exhausted from the engine
compartment is where the wool is a
reasonably straight.
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 22 Mar 99, at
20:48, William Lynn Larsen wrote:
> Actually, I think that Wayne is
right. Like he said the area right at the
> base of the windshield is a
high pressure area. As the air comes over the
> hood and runs into the
windshield, even with its slope, it dams up and
> creates a high pressure
area. Also like he said, if you take out the seal
> at the back of
the hood, the air will actually be forced down into the
> engine area. I
think the front dam under the nose causes the air coming in
> through the
radiator area to be drawn back down and exit underneath and
> out the
sides of the car. The question becomes how much pressure is there
>
and how much would it take to overcome it?? I think if you vent at
the
> strut blisters you will be forward of this high pressure area enough
to
> extract air. I am not an expert and experiments would have to
be run to
> know for sure, but I did get a degree in engineering for what
it's worth.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
Humpty Dumpty was
pushed...
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 19:40:01 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Active Exhaust
Hmmm... you should be hearing a servo "buzzing"
when you flip the switch. If you don't
your servo is probably bad. Take the
square panel off of the driver's side rear just
behind the strut in the
trunk. This is where the servo is located. Have someone start the
car and
flip the switch on and off. If the servo isn't rotating then your problem is
electrical or the servo is jammed.
If the servo moves and you see
the cable bunch up instead of disappearing into it's hole
then you're
right... it's rusted and some penetrating oil will free it up.
If the
servo moves and the cable does move properly then you have to crawl under and
have
a look at the "valve" and see why it doesn't move.
If it's stuck
then you're correct and it should be stuck in "Sport" and not tour. BTW:
You
should hear the servo move when you start the car if you leave the switch in
Tour.
The computer switches during starting.
Good luck.
Bill
91
TT "Old Red"
On 25 Mar 99, at 12:52, Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)
wrote:
> Quick question about the Active Exhaust....
>
>
I'm not sure if the switch even works. The light on the dash changes
from
> nothing to tour if I switch it, but I do not hear anything(Servos,
etc)
> switching in the back.
>
> It was my understanding
that the exhaust defaulted to sport and you had to
> switch it to
tour(which I never did) so, if it is rusted, it should be
> rusted in
sport(I would think.)
>
> Anyway...I should be seeing exhaust out
of both sides right??
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 16:49:02 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: looking for spark plugs
Hi again Pete,
> The best
price I've found so far is at Pep Boys at about $18 for the NGK
As Barry
mentioned, these plugs can be had for about $10 & change each.
I also
believe there was a post in reply to your original post that said
they sell
the plugs for $10.00, but I don't remember who sent it.
A VR4 is
expensive to maintain as you can see by the price of the
plugs. It is
imperative that you establish a relationship with one of
the dealers that
sells stock parts (including NGK spark plugs) at a
15-20% discount to list
members.
Here are a few:
1. Lou Fusz Mitsu 1-800-528-2525, ask
for Greg or Marty. They're in
Saint Louis
2. Rockland Mitsu
1-914-353-2100, ask for Terry. They're in New York
City
3.
West Broad Mitsu 1-800-229-1001, they're in Virginia
4. Tallahassee
Mitsu 1-888-825-5648 (1-888-tall-mit) They're in
Florida.
There
is also a newcomer in California: http://www.norcomits.com
I've had
numerous good dealings with Tallahassee Mitsubishi.
Isn't this info at http://www.3000GT.com or http://www.3SI.org yet?
Good
luck,
Ken
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 25 Mar 1999 20:40:31 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Tranny Question
Dennis Moore wrote:
> stick on tranny was rocking
back/forth as press/release gas pedal. It
> only happened in 5th,
was most noticeable above 60 mph.
> "sign of the end", or less
ominous?
> symptom of a broken motor mount?
> Dennis Moore 93
Stealth ES
Could be broken motormount, even with the cable
shifter.
Doubtful it is anything inside the trans.
Unless it is alot,
could be something to ignore, but check motormounts.
Let us know what it
is/how it goes after month or 2...
Jack T.
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #134
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