--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #133
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Wednesday, March 24 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
133
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:44:36 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: launching
> I've never pretended to be a car expert, but
they teach in driving
> school that the parking break locks up all four
wheels. Am I wrong?
Oh Oh, time to get a new driving school, The e -
brake is connected by
cables to the rear only and in most cases they are drum
brakes inside
the center of the rear rotor. So NO disc brakes are
involved.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:55:20 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Best Plugs
> Thanks for the info. What is the plug
#?
PFR6J-11
The "-11" just means 0.045" gap so anything with
PFR6J- will do since they
should be gapped before installing anyway
regardless of what gap you settle
on.
Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 21:37:54 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli P-Zero?
Ryan Peterson
wrote:
Please turn of your return receipt feature...
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:53:18 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Bosch 4+4 (was:
RE: Team3S: Best Plugs)
Has anyone with an NA tried Bosch platinum 4+4
plugs? I know they haven't
been approved for the turbo cars, and can't be
gapped like normal plugs.
I've had them in my 92 r/t for about 3 months now
and they seem to be
normal. I haven't really done any performance measurement
runs, as i don't
have time for this. I really wasn't able to notice any
difference in
performance between now and then. I'd love to hear anybody
elses views and
experiences with these plugs.
Omar
92
r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 01:28:44 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
"Barry E. King"
wrote:
>
> My '94 read 12.5 psi on an SPI gauge as measured from a
T in the FPR line at
> the rear of the intake plenum.
Perhaps this
is why I don't notice a big difference. It'll spike to
near 1.15, but I
haven't seen it stay above 1 for longer than 2
seconds. It normall
settles down to .5-.6 which sounds normal for stock
turbos.
>
Apparently AVC-R will not learn above 90% IDC. This is a safety
feature
> since running at or above 90% iDC can damage the
injectors. Since some
> injectors (some Bosch models for instance)
CLOSE FULLY when they fail I
> guess Apex'i chose to not be the source of
premature injector failure.
Hmm, starting to get worried again. On
the way to work tonight I
started watching the IDC again. I dropped it
into 3rd and nailed it. I
then watched the IDC climb to 100% and blink,
it stayed there for 3
seconds or so, till it settled back down. The car
did feel fine, but
this doesn't sound good.
> As to programming, I
always start learning in as low as gear as feasible,
> usually 2nd, and
start with a conservative BADC to minimize spikes. Works
> 100% of
the time for me and I am happy with the results. Others just set
>
the BADC as high as possible and live with the spikes. I prefer to
increase
> BADC from some minimal gradually until I begin to overshoot and
back off
> from there. Arguably transient spikes are not a big
deal. Extended
> overshoot is a problem though IMO so I prefer to
sidestep the issue by never
> dealing with them.
When I was going
through the Preset Boost Duty Setting section, I recall
the boost spiking to
1.1*. Somewhat confused by the setup directions, I
set it to setting B,
1 bar, and hoped the self learning would take over.
Perhaps only time at
the track will tell, maybe I'm not as in-tune with
my car as I
thought.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:05:11 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hood Insulation / Scoops
For your interest when doing the mod
:
The hood scoops list @ 36.28 each, your price being $27.21. The
gaskets
for the scoops list @ $ 7.79, your price being $5.84. We can do
either COD or
Credit Card whichever you prefer. Thanks for responding
to our ad!
Dave Daniels
Conicelli Mitsubishi
(800)
892-8994
- -------------
I check out the local cost and also if
they come already painted or not !
Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:35:33 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Friends, ... here's a little easter
gift for your beloved car !
More power = more problems with the stock
clutch. This equation is very true and
therefore it's time for a new clutch.
I shopped around a little bit and found
the "RPS TURBO CARBON" as one of the
best solutions. Till today I only heard
good things about it and I think it's
a really good choice.
The list price is around $650 (ouch) but we can get
it for ..... under $460 ....
when more than 3 people do join the GP ! But for
sure, the more people the
better the discount we can get ! The GP also
includes the cheaper "RPS Turbo"
and the "RPS Carbon" (for the NA people who
need a new clutch or run on NO2) and
the price will be around $420 or less
but the price for the TURBO CARBON is very
good in my opinion.
I'll
try to organize the GP while the clutches will be sent to the
participants
directly by the distributor who made the great offer to us
located in the US.
Please note that the price do NOT include shipping. I'll
update the GP status
every day and will also create a web-site on my pages
before the GP starts on
Saturday so everyone can check out the current price
and how many people are
signed up. I'll post the link when it is
ready.
The GP starts on Saturday, March 27 1999 and ends Sunday, April 4
1999. We
haven't planned to make the GP longer and after this date the
selling price
increases again above $520 street price !
So, everyone
who likes the power to be distributed to the tranny correctly
should email me
personally(robby@swissonline.ch). I'll
register the GP
participants and will post more information when the prices
drops due to the
fact that we are getting more people than expected.
I
hope this helps a little in money saving,
Regards,
Roger,
Switzerland
93'3000GT ... too much power is comming for the stock clutch
:)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 04:52:27 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
a 95 VR4 in my future?
Dave,
my advise is to wait. Too many
miles in my opinion. If you're prepared to
travel you can shop from the
whole country, may be an advantage depending on
where you live. I'm
speaking from experience, last spring I was shopping
locally for a 2nd gen.
turbo, VR-4 or R/T. Not much luck, found one that
had been sitting at a
dealer up north for 8 months. They were to high on
the price and
wouldn't come down to a realistic level.
I then started shopping the
entire country and ended up buying a 95 R/T
turbo from a guy in New
York. The car was a one owner w. 23k miles. I paid
a fraction
over what you're considering to pay for the 90k miles car. (plus
$500
plane ticket) This is year ago, the prices have since dropped. While
I
was shopping I found a pile of 94's with around 50k miles on them for
around
17-18k. Again, since this is a year ago I would think that the
same will
apply to the '95s by now.
As always, when buying a used car,
have it professionally inspected.
Good luck,
Oskar
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, March 18, 1999 03:19
Subject: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my
future?
>
>I need your collective advice..
>
>I
may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95 VR4 that I
could
pick
>up for $18,000.. Here's the catch.. the 95 has
90,000 miles, and no
warranty.
>However, it's a one owner car and was
apparently maintained religously. I
know
>to check for all the
obvious things like 60K service, oil changes, tranny
>replacement(s),
etc.. I also know a number of you have some very high mile
>cars, so
I know they have the potential to last a long time.
>
>I guess what
I'm after is, is this just way too many miles for the money
even
>if
it's in great shape? I haven't seen the car yet since it's about 1
1/2
>hours away, and want to make sure I'm not wasting my time.. Is
there
anything
>specific to 95 models that I need to be aware of or
look for?
>
>I was actually planning on looking for a low to average
mile 94-96 over the
>next 9 months.. should I
wait?
>
>thanks..
>
>Dave
>91 VR4 (may soon be
gone.. :( but may be replaced.. :) )
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:48:53 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
Hi
Listers..
First of all, thank you for the advice to paint the pop up
black headlights.
IMHO, the car is much nicer now....
I still have a
couple questions (I told you so :-)
Factory Alarm
- - I can have
the SECURITY light activated when I depress the passenger's
door lock,
but
NOT when I lock the car with the key....normal ?
- - When the SECURITY is
engaged, I can open either door with the key, no
problem. But if
I open
the hatch with the key, then the alarm will trigger....normal ?
Canadian
export ?
- - My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian export. The speedo
is indeed with
the Km/h
in bigger font than the MPH, but when I want to
"flash" my headlights, and
if the main
lights are off, then only the FOG
lights will illuminate. And I CANNOT have
the
foglights on, unless the
main lights are in the UP position...
- - Given the king of speed I
travel around, I'd like to be able to have the
foglights on
(for
security), but with the main headlights OFF (better
aerodynamics)...any fix
to that ?
- - The clima is displaying in °F....and, hum, I'd prefer to
have it in
°C....any trick ?
- - What control is switching ON the anti
fog of the external mirrors...seems
that some days it's working, and some
days...not !
Thank you for your advice
Best regards
PS:
I'll be quite soon in KY, TX (Dallas area), CA (S.F.), and NYC.
Any listers
from there ??
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 06:52:12 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Hood Insulation / Scoops
Roger,
I went back through the posts and
the referenced emails and the only mod
I found was the one on the Wisconsin
DSM club site. Which mod is Dave
Daniels below talking
about?
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> For your interest when doing
the mod :
>
> The hood scoops list @ 36.28 each, your price being
$27.21. The
> gasketsfor the scoops list @ $ 7.79, your price being
$5.84.
> We can do either COD or Credit Card whichever you
prefer.
> Thanks for responding to our ad!
>
> Dave
Daniels
> Conicelli Mitsubishi
> (800) 892-8994
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 06:00:53 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: A
humble apology
Sorry - my previous reply regarding VR-4 purchase was
intended to be
private. Just got back from vacation and forgot the
meaning of the 'Reply
to Author' button.
Oskar
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:44:29 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Us busy Minnesotans
Hey everyone,
I've been busy
organizing more events for "Minnesota 3/S". Check out our
events page
if anyone is interested.
(http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/events.html)
Our
next event is April 18th at Rock Falls Raceway, for a little
drag
racing. If anyone else up in Wisconsin, Iowa, or Illinois is
interested in
coming, let me know. The more the merrier.
Thanks
for reading,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 15:47:51 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Jason Barnhart
wrote:
>
> Perhaps this is why I don't notice a big
difference. It'll spike to
> near 1.15, but I haven't seen it stay
above 1 for longer than 2
> seconds. It normall settles down to
.5-.6 which sounds normal for stock
> turbos.
You should notice a
big difference with a boost controller. With the
SAVC-R installed and
set to 1.0 bar, my car's HP/torque increased from
320/315 to 406/354, no
small potatoes. Something is apparently not
right with your
setup.
It should NOT be settling down to .5-.6 bar. Throw it in
third and see
if you can hold 1.0 bar of boost from 1500 RPM through 5000
RPM, which
will take more than 2 seconds. If boost falls off in this
range, you
have a problem. Note that at redline, boost levels of .7-.8
are typical
due to the small turbos.
> Hmm, starting to get
worried again. On the way to work tonight I
> started watching the
IDC again. I dropped it into 3rd and nailed it. I
> then
watched the IDC climb to 100% and blink, it stayed there for 3
> seconds
or so, till it settled back down. The car did feel fine, but
> this
doesn't sound good.
This is why fuel upgrades should be considered early
on. Are you saying
that your IDC fell while you were still WOT in third
as RPMs climbed?
IDC demands should not decrease under these conditions,
which may shed
some light on your problem.
BTW, I am still running the
stock fuel system and of course also see
high IDC levels at high RPMs.
But after running 1.0 bar for 20K+ miles
I have yet to experience any
ill-effects. So while you needn't worry
too much, as you say, it
doesn't sound good. And to think that Supras
come with 550 injectors
from the factory!
> When I was going through the Preset Boost Duty
Setting section, I recall
> the boost spiking to 1.1*. Somewhat
confused by the setup directions, I
> set it to setting B, 1 bar, and
hoped the self learning would take over.
The BADC setting controls
temporary overboost, which, if kept to
moderate levels, should be
harmless. If you don't want any overboost,
reduce the BADC setting
until spiking is eliminated. I run 70-72% BADC,
which results in a
temporary overboost to 1.05 bar before settling back
to a sustained level of
1.00 bar.
Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 07:20:33 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: stock boost? (was: AVC-R installation)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
March 23, 1999 5:15 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
My '94 read 12.5 psi on
an SPI gauge as measured from a T in the FPR line at
the rear of the intake
plenum.
<snip>
Barry
====================================
'yo
Barry...
Thanks for the actual measurement. Was this 12.5psi without a
boost
controller? Stock setup (no mods)?
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:40:51 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: stock boost? (was: AVC-R installation)
Right. No
mods.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> My '94
read 12.5 psi on an SPI gauge as measured from a T in the
> FPR line
at
> the rear of the intake plenum.
> <snip>
>
>
Barry
> ====================================
> 'yo Barry...
>
> Thanks for the actual measurement. Was this 12.5psi without a
boost
> controller? Stock setup (no mods)?
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:20:22 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
"Sigh. Nostalgia just isn't what it used to
be.........the older I get, the faster I was"
LOL
Man, that's
the truth ---- for all of us!
:)
Steve Clarke
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:18:22 +0100
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
Henry,
> Factory
Alarm
Sorry, no input because we do not have Alarm in the EU
cars.
> Canadian export ?
>
>
- My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian
export. The speedo is indeed
> with the Km/h in bigger font than the MPH,
but when I want to "flash" my
> headlights, and if the main lights are
off, then only the FOG lights will
> illuminate. And I CANNOT have the
foglights on, unless the main lights are
> in the UP position..
Are
you sure these are foglights ? In reality these are drivinglights/high
beams
because the fog lights where not homologated for our streets and what
you
describe is how it works. The mod is not complicated to do this. Just
have a
look at the manual and it'll be easy for you.
>
- The clima is displaying in °F....and, hum,
I'd prefer to have it in
> °C....any trick ?
The last time I read
about this was to change the whole control unit to get
this
working.
> - What control
is switching ON the anti fog of the external mirrors
> ...seems that some
days it's working, and some days...not !
Combined with the rear window
defroster at the right top side of the panel
(yellow LED when on)
Best
regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 09:35:21 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Good post Ron, but methinks
you have it backwards (or maybe I'm
backwards ;)). Won't elongating the
front mounting toward the engine,
and elongating the lower A arm mount toward
the wheel increase negative
camber?
Ron Thompson
wrote:
snip
> On the front you must elongate the shock tower mounting
holes to give
> extra positive camber. This means make the holes longer
toward the
> engine bay, not toward the wheel. Do it nice and clean, don't
widen
snip
>
> The rear you must elongate the sub frame
where the lower control arm
> attaches near the differential. The upper
arm has the cam adjuster for
> the camber adjustment and the lower is
fixed. Again, don't widen, just
> elongate, this time toward the wheel.
Make sure you keep the hole true
snip
- --
Two wrongs don't make a
right, but three lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 13:36:34 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RPS clutch Group Purchase !
Roger Gerl wrote:
> I found "RPS
TURBO CARBON" as one of the best solutions.
> list price $650 we can get
for under $460; the more people, the
> better the discount we can get
! I'll organize GP so clutches will be sent
> directly by
distributor who made offer located in US.
> price NOT include ship. I'll
update GP status
> every day and create web-site so can checkcurrent
price/how many people signed up.
> GP starts Saturday March 27; ends
Sunday April 4.
> email me (robby@swissonline.ch) I'll register
GP
> participants and post info when prices drop due to
> fact we
get more people than expected.
> Roger, Switzerland
This sounds
like a great deal. I have the older RPS Turbo Clutch, and
it held over
625hp at the wheels to 10-second quartermiles; it did
occasionally slip but
would recover. I spoke to RPS and they say the
NEW carbon fiber
material will hold 125hp ABOVE the prior clutch, using
same pressure plate,
so no more pedal effort, yet is
slippable/streetable. They did say it
would be at least 3 weeks
delivery due to backorder/getting materials, so
sooner we sign up the
earlier on the list we will be to get them!
I want
one, if the timeframe is ok...
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:55:29 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Have you changed your fuel
filter recently? It could preventing flow enough to give the
high IDC
readings.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 09:09:26 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Hood Insulation / Scoops
Roger Gerl wrote:
-------------
snip
> I check out the local cost and also if
they come already painted or not !
>
The price is a good...however
they always come unpainted..so add paint to your total
investment.
Still modifying these is inexpensive compared to Bozz.
I am still hoping
a team member with skill, facilities, and ingenuity will come up with
a nice
neat prefabricated insert (cutout template included) for the back of our
strut
tower blisters. Mmmm ...something like the side of the hood vents in
the new Mustangs
(in that case they're inoperable) , only made for our
contour configuration. ; ) It
could prove to be a nice little on
the side enterprize if done with class.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:45:42 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
In the early dawning of spring
Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
snip
> -
>
- When the SECURITY is engaged, I can open
either door with the key, no
> problem. But
if
> I open the hatch with
the key, then the alarm will trigger....normal ?
This glitch has occurred
very intermittenly with me in my Canadaian 92. 99.9% of the
time,
opening the trunk with the alarm activated will not set it off. On
occassion it
has. Don't know the problem and haven't bothered to sort through
the electrical to work
it out. I simply unlock a front door to deactivate it
to avoid the possibity of it
occurring (only has happened
twice).
>
>
> Canadian export
?
Yep!
>
>
> -
My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian export. The speedo is indeed
with
> the Km/h
> in
bigger font than the MPH, but when I want to "flash" my headlights, and
>
if the main
> lights are
off, then only the FOG lights will illuminate. And I CANNOT have
>
the
> foglights on, unless
the main lights are in the UP position...
Fog lights/driving lights are
supposed to be on all of the time on Canadian cars once
they are started up
(Federal saftely requirement) and they will only go off when the
main
headlights are turned on (or when you shut off the engine). Flashing from high
to
low beam on headlights should not be a problem, but you will always loose
the driving
lights when the main lights are turned on, and vice versa. If
this is not happening then
there is a problem from the Canadian standpoint
(saftey requirement).
>
>
>
- Given the king of speed I travel around,
I'd like to be able to have the
> foglights
on
> (for security), but
with the main headlights OFF (better
> aerodynamics)...any fix
to that ?
Hmmm this should not be this way.
Was the car altered from the Canadian standard for
import? A section in the
manual deals with Cnadian versions (and California versions)
check it out and
see if yours has been altered from that discribed.
>
>
>
- The clima is displaying in °F....and, hum,
I'd prefer to have it in
> °C....any trick ?
Strange eh. We use C
here as well but the climate is still in F, whereas the speedo is
in kms
(miles in smaller figures behind the kms). You'll have to live with the F
like
the rest of us.
>
>
>
- What control is switching ON the anti fog
of the external mirrors...seems
> that
some days it's working, and some days...not
!
Dunno..may be automatic, as I haven't found it
either.
Best
Darc
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 18:03:30 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Paint
follow up and questions
> In the early dawning of spring Genesiscon
Lehir wrote:
>
> snip
>
> > -
> >
- When the SECURITY is engaged, I can open
either door
> with the key, no
> > problem. But if
>
> I open the hatch with the
key, then the alarm will
> trigger....normal ?
>
> This glitch
has occurred very intermittenly with me in my
> Canadaian 92. 99.9%
of the
> time, opening the trunk with the alarm activated will not
set it
> off. On occassion it
> has. Don't know the problem and
haven't bothered to sort through
> the electrical to work
> it out.
I simply unlock a front door to deactivate it to avoid
> the possibity of
it
> occurring (only has happened twice).
snip
One
suggestion i could give to avoid the trunk going off is turn the key all
the
way to the right, and hold it there while you open the trunk with your
hand.
once the hatch clears the locking mechanism and the pinswitch, take
the key
out.
Omar
92 r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 19:09:13 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Paint follow up and questions
Reply inserted below ...
On 24
Mar 99, at 12:48, Genesiscon Lehir wrote:
> Factory Alarm
>
> - I can have the SECURITY light activated when I depress the
passenger's
> door lock, but NOT when I lock the car with the
key....normal ?
No. Your lock switch us dirty. Try some penetrating oil
or take it apart and clean it.
> - When the SECURITY is engaged, I can
open either door with the key, no
> problem. But if I open the hatch
with the key, then the alarm will trigger....normal ?
Your hatch lock
switch is dirty or you didn't turn the key far enough. It is possible to
open the hatch without disarming the alarm. You need to turn the key all the
way until it
stops to disarm the alarm.
>
> Canadian export
?
>
> - My car is supposed to be a 92, canadian export. The speedo
is indeed
> with the Km/h in bigger font than the MPH, but when I
want to "flash" my headlights,
> and if the main lights are
off, then only the FOG lights will illuminate. And I CANNOT
> have
the foglights on, unless the main lights are in the UP
position...
Hmmm... I agree with Darc. Canadian cars have the driving
lights on all the time and the
can only be switched off if you turn on the
headlights and turn them off using the switch
on the dash.
>
> - Given the king of speed I travel around, I'd like to be able to have
the
> foglights on (for security), but with the main headlights OFF
(better
> aerodynamics)...any fix to that ?
This should be normal
Canadian behaviour...
>
> - The clima is displaying in
°F....and, hum, I'd prefer to have it in
> °C....any trick
?
Sorry... buy a new one.
> - What control is switching
ON the anti fog of the external
> mirrors...seems that some days it's
working, and some days...not !
It's on with the rear defog.
Humpty
Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 24 Mar 1999 19:45:37 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject:
[none]
Surfing across the web, i came across this product. Might be
useful to those
concerned about the oil that enters the intake system through
the crankcase
breather hose. Take a look at this breather filter
system..
http://www.parker.com/racor/ccv_intro.html
Most
of their stuff is for tractor trailers and stuff.
Omar
92
r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #133
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm