--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #132
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comErrors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comPrecedence:
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Team3S Digest
Tuesday, March 23 1999 Volume 01
: Number
132
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:36:18 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Wayne wrote:
>
> Matt, and
all others that want to remove insulation and seals,
> You all realize
that the cowl (area between the firewall and bottom of the
> windshield)
is a high pressure area, don't you? Thats why cowl induction
> hoods have
a scoop pointing toward the windshield.
Don't you have to either have a
highly raised up cowling, or like in
nascar, be doing 180 mph for the low
pressure zone to develop? I thought
that our cars, because of the slight
slope of the hood, as well as the
amount of air that comes in the front,
would benefit from having the
"blow-through" of the incoming air. Nascars
have a very teeny hole in
the front for air to come in, and I *think* the
volume of air that goes
around the car helps to create that low pressure
zone. Am i right? Any
aerodynamics pros out there?
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:31:11 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Thanks for the feedback Del. You
guys should take a look at this as an
option for getting the heat out.
Aesthetically, I think it looks pretty
good in an understated
way.
Regards,
Lynn
Del A Kolasinski wrote:
>
> Thanks for
noticing our website. In response to the sloted
> hood vents on my
friend Aaron's VR-4, they do an AWESOME job of
> releasing
> the hot
air from under the hood. After driving the car if you simply
> place
your hands over them you can feel the heat venting
out.
> As for
how we did it here it goes.
> He bought a new set from the dealer just to
have new ones.
> We took a good dremel and simply cut angled slots in
them.
> We placed screen on the underside (from a fish store)
> He
had his painted blue to match his racing stripes.
> It really works
great!
> If you want to check it out for yourself, check out the website
at
> wisc.dsm.org
> Del Kolasinski
>
PEARLVR42C@juno.com>
wisc.dsm.org
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:48:10 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Actually, I think that Wayne is right.
Like he said the area right at
the base of the windshield is a high pressure
area. As the air comes
over the hood and runs into the windshield, even with
its slope, it dams
up and creates a high pressure area. Also like he
said, if you take out
the seal at the back of the hood, the air will actually
be forced down
into the engine area. I think the front dam under the nose
causes the
air coming in through the radiator area to be drawn back down and
exit
underneath and out the sides of the car. The question becomes how
much
pressure is there and how much would it take to overcome it?? I
think
if you vent at the strut blisters you will be forward of this
high
pressure area enough to extract air. I am not an expert and
experiments
would have to be run to know for sure, but I did get a degree
in
engineering for what it's worth.
Regards,
Lynn
Michael
Booker wrote:
>
> Wayne wrote:
> >
> > Matt, and
all others that want to remove insulation and seals,
> > You all
realize that the cowl (area between the firewall and bottom
> of
the
> > windshield) is a high pressure area, don't you? Thats why
cowl
> induction
> > hoods have a scoop pointing toward the
windshield.
> Don't you have to either have a highly raised up cowling, or
like in
> nascar, be doing 180 mph for the low pressure zone to develop?
I
> thought
> that our cars, because of the slight slope of the
hood, as well as the
> amount of air that comes in the front, would
benefit from having the
> "blow-through" of the incoming air. Nascars have
a very teeny hole in
> the front for air to come in, and I *think* the
volume of air that
> goes
> around the car helps to create that low
pressure zone. Am i right? Any
> aerodynamics pros out there?
>
> Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:51:49 -0500
From: Leland Gray <
grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
launching
How can I burn rubber in my auto 93 Stealth ES. Can I put
the car in
neutral, rev up the gas, and slip it into Drive? Will this
f*** up my
transmission?
Leland
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 21:00:06 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
>Actually, I think that
Wayne is right. Like he said the area right at
>the base of the windshield
is a high pressure area. As the air comes
>over the hood and runs into the
windshield, even with its slope, it dams
>up and creates a high pressure
area. Also like he said, if you take out
>the seal at the back of
the hood, the air will actually be forced down
>into the engine area.
My problem on road courses is that I get tremendous underhood temps
whilst
accelerating out of corners in 2nd gear under high turbo boost. As
near as
I can figure (thanks to discussions in this group), the precats
generate
the heat, which is trapped under the sealed hood.
Two
obvious solutions are:
1) carry more speed into the corners so I can remain
in 3rd gear (this
probably requires racing tires and more driving skill than
I have at
present) or
2) vent the hood to release all the builtup
heat.
Since the temperature buildup occurs mostly at speeds of 65-80 mph
in 2nd
gear, it seems to me that this is not a high enough speed to create a
high
pressure area. With any kind of luck, removing the hood seals or
raising
the back of the hood up by an inch or so (dragstrip style) ought to
release
the heat.
I can remove the leaves, bugs, and trash that are
forced in at 125+ mph
after the event.
Thoughts?
BTW, we have a
Porsche club drivers school event coming up at Heartland
Park in Topeka,
Kansas, the weekend of April 17-18. Am I going to be all by
myself
again? Where are all the stealths and 3000GTs from Kansas City,
St.
Louis, Des Moines, Oklahoma City and Omaha? You dragstrippers might want
to
emulate our collective hero, Dr Jack T: he drag races AND road races!
And
he kicks ass doing both! You could too.
I sure get lonely among
all those doctors and their pretty Porsches.
Rich/old Poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:18:24 -0500
From: "Michael D. Romano" <
mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
Well, I'm not entirely sure why you would want to
considering you would just
be wasting tread, and losing time as your opponent
took off before you. BUT,
it should be pretty easy for you. I've got new
Yokohama 540's on my auto '93
Stealth ES, and I can light them up pretty
easily for 2-3 seconds, without
having to do a 'neutral drop' as you
described (which is horrible on your
tranny), or even power braking...you
should be able to just slam the
accelerator.
You may want to examine
your engine. Maybe you have some fouled plugs or
something? Leaky
exhaust?
Good luck, and hope it's not expensive!
- -Mike
'93
Stealth ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Leland Gray
> Sent: Monday, March 22, 1999 9:52 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: launching
>
>
> How can I burn rubber in my
auto 93 Stealth ES. Can I put the car in
> neutral, rev up the gas,
and slip it into Drive? Will this f*** up my
>
transmission?
>
> Leland
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:17:14 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Merritt,
I think that even at 65-80
you are going to get airflow back down into
the engine doing this. I
absolutely could be wrong. Go ahead and raise
the back of the hood like you
said, but tape some 3-4" strands of yarn
at about 6" intervals along the gap
created and watch them. See which
way they blow.
If they blow
towards the engine like I think they will, take a look what
this guy Aaron
did at wisc.dsm.org or buy the bozz vent kits for the
strut tower blisters
that
Aso8@aol.com has for sale.
If they
blow up and out of the engine compartment, you are good to
go.
Regards,
Lynn
Merritt wrote:
> 2) vent the hood
to release all the builtup heat.
>
> Since the temperature buildup
occurs mostly at speeds of 65-80 mph in
> 2nd gear, it seems to me that
this is not a high enough speed to
> create a high pressure area. With
any kind of luck, removing the
> hood seals or raising the back of the
hood up by an inch or so
> (dragstrip style) ought to release the
heat.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:57:31 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <
stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Stealth Ragtop Sighting
I was on I-71 between Cincy and Columbus (Ohio)
this Saturday, and saw a
Stealth Convertible heading southbound. Was it
by chance anybody on the
list? If so, I'd be curious to find out what,
if any, structural
reinforcements you added to the car. Also, how much
did the conversion
cost?
Thanks.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net93 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:59:50 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <
stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S: 2nd
Gen Headlights?
Anybody have a 2nd generation headlight assembly they
don't need? If so,
please e-mail me privately.
Thanks.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net93 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 22:01:45 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
At 10:17 PM 3/22/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>Merritt,
>
>I think that even at 65-80 you are going
to get airflow back down into
>the engine doing this. I absolutely
could be wrong. Go ahead and raise
>the back of the hood like you said,
but tape some 3-4" strands of yarn
>at about 6" intervals along the gap
created and watch them. See which
>way they blow.
>
Now
THAT is a dang good idea!
Rich/old poop/VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:49:12 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth Ragtop Sighting
Dennis Moore wrote:
>
>
I was on I-71 between Cincy and Columbus (Ohio) this Saturday, and saw
What are you doing down that neck of the woods, I'm just south of
the
Ohio river. I didn't see you wave...
Ron Thompson
Edgewood,
KY
96VR4 white pearl
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:53:15 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
He's a sailor, they are called
tell tails.
The pressure will either be reduced or reversed at the right
and left
edges of the hood, also away from the AC intake.
Ron
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 23:56:08 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth Ragtop Sighting
Sorry, I pasted over with Dennis'
address but it went to the list
anyway.
Ron Thompson wrote:
>
> Dennis Moore wrote:
> >
> > I was on I-71 between
Cincy and Columbus (Ohio) this Saturday, and saw
>
> What are you
doing down that neck of the woods, I'm just south of the
> Ohio river. I
didn't see you wave...
>
> Ron Thompson
> Edgewood,
KY
> 96VR4 white pearl
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:50:15 -0800
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Transfer Case?
Mark;
Tranny problems are usually, but not
exclusively reserved to synchros, so that leaves
you with the more desireable
: ( transfer case/spine problems. Get the warranty to
cover it if you
can (mods may invalidate it so maybe put it back to a stock "look"
before
going in to have it looked at). We have some past posts here on stronger shafts
(
splines) which are aftermarket products. Jack T. posted on one which
apparently is a
much harder steel and likely not to have this happen to it..
Check the archives for the
address/phone which he posted, or maybe someone
else has it handy and will post it.
Best (of
luck.)
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Mar 1999 20:00:50 -0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <
acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Transfer Case?
Sounds like just what my car did. (93 VR4 )
If you check the transaxle you
will see that the internal gear and the tranny
output shaft are ground and
some of the noise is here from the gears slipping
and grinding. Mine were
shot, there was just enough left to let the
rear wheels move just slightly
on the lift.(I mean just barely moving with no
load)
There seems to be a problem in the tranny to since I can hardly move.
(front
wheel drive) I know the clutch is shot and maybe that could be
why, just
slipping.
My car is hopefully on the road now via a car hauler
and should be home in a
few days.
That's when the real fun begins...
starting the change over to a 6 speed :)
But I need to get a clutch
soon.
Good luck on your problem, sounds like what went wrong with my car,
but at
least you have a warranty on it :) I didn't
:(
Andy
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark <
pagan@siscom.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, March 22, 1999 7:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Transfer
Case?
>Greetings. I have been lurking on this list for about
a month now and am
>in need of some of this groups expert
experience. I have a '93 Stealth RT
>TT with the following
performance mods:
>
>Manual boost controller (Extreme XBC) @ 15psi,
ATR downpipe, test pipe,
>custom 3" cat-back, K&N
FIPK
>
>One evening on my way home from work I noticed a thump
sounding like it was
>coming from "under my chair-ish" and toward the
back. This would only
>occur when I was taking off and happened no
matter what gear I was starting
>in. Once I was moving the "thump"
went away (or at least I couldn't hear
>it). Then right before my
house it made a horrible noise (grinding, and
>like something broke) and
the clutch started slipping. I figured that the
>clutch went south,
so I ordered a RPS Turbo Clutch. When I took the OEM
>clutch out it
was down into the rivets, but the clutch face wasn't broken
>anywhere and
the flywheel just had a few burn marks on it. After
>installing the
clutch (new T.O. bearing and turned the flywheel) I set out
>to test it
and low and behold, the clutch slipped as bad or worse than it
>did before
I installed the RPS. There was also a click/grind, very light,
>but
ever present when the car started moving. So I brought the car
back
>into the garage and started looking at the service manual. I
bled the
>clutch system and that didn't help. I checked the release
fork and with
>the clutch disengaged I could wiggle the fork (or my friend
could). So we
>lifted the car off the ground (on his lift) a little
and put the car in
>gear. Slowly releasing the clutch resulted in
the front wheels turning but
>not the back wheels. Also, with the
car off and in gear (and still off the
>ground) the rear wheels can freely
be spun and the drive shaft moves.
>
>Painfully, I am left to think
that this problem is the transfer case or the
>tranny. I haven't
taken the transfer case back off yet to see if I can see
>anything, but I
guess that is the next step. Anyone have any other ideas
>what this
might be? Experience this problem before?
>
>As I said the car
is a '93 but I got it with an after market warranty that
>has not yet run
out. So most of the cost of the part should be covered by
>the
warranty if it is indeed the transfer case or the tranny.
>
>Any
help is greatly
appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark
>broken '93 RT
TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 02:56:47 EST
From:
Htkclk@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: affect
of alignment on stability
<< Today I was following a new 911
on such a bend at about 140 mph >>
Your autobahn speeds are high
enough that the owners' manual specifies higher
pressures. My 92 TT
manual states, "For sustained high-speed driving,
increase inflation pressure
4 psi (28 kPa) above the recommended pressure but
do not exceed the maximum
inflation molded into the tire sidewall." And for
speeds like yours
above 100 mph, the manual then has a chart that specifies
increasing pressure
a total of 7 psi (50 kPa) in front and 4 psi (30 kPa) in
the rear.
I
have always used these higher pressures, and still have most of my wear
on
the edges, from cornering (I think the steel belts do minimize the
ballooning
effect of slightly higher pressures. The lower pressures
posted at the
driver's door are chosen perhaps more for soft ride comfort,
than concern for
tire wear).
Henry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 09:04:24 -0600
From: Wayne <
wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Car for sale?
I'm seriously considering selling my 91 VR-4. Heres
a link to the ad on
C2000.....
Wayne
http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R599332For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 07:28:18 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
- -----Original Message-----
From: Leland Gray
[
mailto:grayda@erols.com]
Sent: Monday,
March 22, 1999 6:52 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: launching
How can I burn rubber in my auto 93 Stealth ES.
Can I put the car in
neutral, rev up the gas, and slip it into Drive?
Will this f*** up
my
transmission?
Leland
=============================
Leland...
Prepare
your pocketbook for tranny replacements when dropping from neutral
to drive
under high RPMs!!!
Much better is the tried and true "power braking"
technique. Hold your left
foot on the brake hard enough to hold the car while
bringing up the revs.
With practice you can get endless tire spin. Not a
particularly useful race
technique, as you're wasting time sitting in one
spot, but it looks
impressive. Also a great way to reduce the life of your
tires. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored
and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 11:35:08 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation...
Quick question about the electrical
side of the install... I hate to mess with the
wiring on the computer
too much, is it necessary to connect the ground, key switch, and
constant hot
to the computer? I realize I won't get the injector signal from
anywhere
else, but the ground, key switch and and constant hot should be the
same virtually
anywhere in the car, right?
thanks
again,
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:10:01 -0700
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <
rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
95 VR4 for sale
This weekend I took a look at a 95 VR-4 for sale.
This car was in
showroom condition , it only has 42 thousand miles on it's.
This is a
one owner car the owner has all maintenance records and the car
has
always been garaged. He is asking 22k for the vehicle if anyone
is
interested e-mail me and ill give you more details.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 12:51:25 -0500
From: Leland Gray <
grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
launching
But if you keep your left foot on the brakes, doesn't this
affect the front brakes? I'm
thinking that if you keep your foot on the
brake, the front wheel won't be ale to spin.
Or, the wheels will spin but the
brake rotors would wear down too?
Please
reply..
Leland
Chris Winkley wrote:
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Leland Gray [
mailto:grayda@erols.com]
> Sent:
Monday, March 22, 1999 6:52 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: launching
>
> How can I burn rubber in my auto 93
Stealth ES. Can I put the car in
> neutral, rev up the gas, and slip
it into Drive? Will this f*** up my
> transmission?
>
>
Leland
> =============================
> Leland...
>
>
Prepare your pocketbook for tranny replacements when dropping from
neutral
> to drive under high RPMs!!!
>
> Much better is the
tried and true "power braking" technique. Hold your left
> foot on the
brake hard enough to hold the car while bringing up the revs.
> With
practice you can get endless tire spin. Not a particularly useful race
>
technique, as you're wasting time sitting in one spot, but it looks
>
impressive. Also a great way to reduce the life of your tires.
:-)
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> 1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
> cell battery,
bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
> double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
> GReddy
turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
> Eibach
1" drop progressive springs)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 12:55:02 -0500
From: "Michael D. Romano" <
mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
Your just holding the brake long enough to get the
revs up, then pop your
left foot off the brake...*then* the burn-out occurs.
Your ES should be able
to burn them without power-braking, though.
-
-Mike
'93 Stealth ES
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
[
mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Leland Gray
> Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 1999 12:51 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: launching
>
>
> But if you keep your left
foot on the brakes, doesn't this affect
> the front brakes?
I'm
> thinking that if you keep your foot on the brake, the front
wheel
> won't be ale to spin.
> Or, the wheels will spin but the
brake rotors would wear down too?
>
> Please reply..
>
>
Leland
>
> Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > From: Leland Gray [
mailto:grayda@erols.com]
> > Sent:
Monday, March 22, 1999 6:52 PM
> > To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Subject: Team3S: launching
> >
> > How can I burn rubber
in my auto 93 Stealth ES. Can I put the car in
> > neutral, rev
up the gas, and slip it into Drive? Will this f*** up my
> >
transmission?
> >
> > Leland
> >
=============================
> > Leland...
> >
> >
Prepare your pocketbook for tranny replacements when dropping
> from
neutral
> > to drive under high RPMs!!!
> >
> > Much
better is the tried and true "power braking" technique.
> Hold your
left
> > foot on the brake hard enough to hold the car while bringing
up
> the revs.
> > With practice you can get endless tire spin.
Not a particularly
> useful race
> > technique, as you're wasting
time sitting in one spot, but it looks
> > impressive. Also a great way
to reduce the life of your tires. :-)
> >
> >
Looking forward...Chris
> >
> > 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV,
> Predator dry
> > cell
battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm
> wires,
HKS
> > double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
> > GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy
catback exhaust,
> > Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
> >
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:04:43 -0500
From: Michael Booker <
mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
What about removing the fenderwell covers?
That would not only allow the
intercoolers to breathe easier, but wouldn't it
also vent more air out
the sides/bottom of the car, and help to plant the car
to the ground?
Anybody tried this?
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:25:08 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
- -----Original Message-----
From: Leland Gray
[
mailto:grayda@erols.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, March 23, 1999 9:51 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: launching
But if you keep your left foot on the brakes,
doesn't this affect the front
brakes? I'm
thinking that if you keep
your foot on the brake, the front wheel won't be
ale to spin.
Or, the
wheels will spin but the brake rotors would wear down too?
Please
reply..
Leland
<snip>
==========================
Leland...
Yes,
this technique is hard on the rotors, but overall less damaging than
shifting
from neutral into gear with the revs up. It really depends on what
you're
trying to accomplish, a burnout or a fast launch. They are two
different
things.
For the burnout, you have to find the right pressure on the
brake pedal
while increasing the revs (lets say, to five grand). At some
point, as you
let up slowly on the brake pedal, the tires will break loose,
while the car
sits in one place. In my younger days, I have done this for an
extended
period of time, producing lots and lots of smoke. It DOES wear out
the tires
and brakes both (but won't break the tranny).
For a good
launch, the objective is to get your revs high enough so you can
launch
without "bogging" down the engine. Mike Romano has replied indicating
he can
get a good launch without using the brakes at all. This is very
impressive,
as most stock cars with automatics won't do this in a straight
line
(exceptions might be a big block Corvette or other rear wheel drive
cars).
The objective for a good racing launch (with a manual or
automatic
transmission) is to be able to leave the line without this
"bogging" effect,
at the same time not sitting in one spot of molten rubber
and smoke. It's a
fine line and takes some practice.
BTW...the burnout
technique was originally developed to heat racing slicks
to a temperature
where they become "sticky" and provided greater traction
during the
subsequent launch. The overall effect of the revving engine,
smoking tires,
etc. was impressive in itself and became so popular that
everyone wanted to
do it. However, it has NEVER won a race and most street
tires do not benefit
from the technique.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored
and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 12:36:21 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
At 01:04 PM 3/23/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>What about removing the fenderwell covers? That would not only
allow the
>intercoolers to breathe easier, but wouldn't it also vent more
air out
>the sides/bottom of the car, and help to plant the car to the
ground?
>Anybody tried this?
Be sure to replace the
fenderwell covers with a screen that will keep
stones from being thrown
off the tires into the intercoolers.
Rich/old poop
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:33:01 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
launching
Leland,
I think I see what you are driving at. If you
put on only the emergency
brake, that should hold the rears and hopefully the
car while leaving
the FWD to spint to its hearts content. As long as the
rears don't
rotate, this should put no wear on the brake pads but will put
stesses
on the rotors and brake mechanisms. Will it break them??
Who knows. I
guess it depends on the slipping coefficent of friction of your
front
tires. (Yes the slipping coefficent of friction is different than
the
static by a LOT.) This and the weight on the tires will determine
how
much force the brakes will have to endure while the fronts fog up
the
country side and your wallet goes ca-ching, ca-ching, ca-ching like
an
old timey gas pump dinging off the
gallons.
Regards,
Lynn
Leland Gray wrote:
>
> But
if you keep your left foot on the brakes, doesn't this affect the
> front
brakes? I'm thinking that if you keep your foot on the brake,
> the
front wheel won't be ale to spin. Or, the wheels will spin but
> the
brake rotors would wear down too?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:43:44 -0500
From: "Michael D. Romano" <
mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: launching
> For a good launch, the objective is to get
your revs high enough
> so you can
> launch without "bogging" down
the engine. Mike Romano has replied
> indicating
> he can get a good
launch without using the brakes at all. This is very
> impressive, as most
stock cars with automatics won't do this in a straight
> line (exceptions
might be a big block Corvette or other rear wheel drive
> cars). The
objective for a good racing launch (with a manual or automatic
>
transmission) is to be able to leave the line without this
> "bogging"
effect,
Just to clarify: I was saying that I can burn-out without using
the
brakes...I was not speaking about getting a good launch. :)
I
can't get a good launch to save my life!
This was the first automatic I
bought in the last 7 cars...and it will be
the last automatic sports car,
thats for sure!
- -Mike
'93 Stealth ES
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:47:19 +0000
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <
loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: launching
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
>
Leland,
>
> I think I see what you are driving at. If you put on
only the emergency
> brake, that should hold the rears
I've never
pretended to be a car expert, but they teach in driving
school that the
parking break locks up all four wheels. Am I wrong?
- --Steve "Loco3KGT"
Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 10:55:07 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <
middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: launching
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
>
Leland,
>
> I think I see what you are driving at. If you put on
only the emergency
> brake, that should hold the rears and hopefully the
car while leaving
> the FWD to spint to its hearts content. As long as the
rears don't
> rotate, this should put no wear on the brake pads but will
put stesses
> on the rotors and brake mechanisms. Will it break
them?? Who knows. I
> guess it depends on the slipping coefficent of
friction of your front
> tires. (Yes the slipping coefficent of friction
is different than the
> static by a LOT.) This and the weight on the tires
will determine how
> much force the brakes will have to endure while the
fronts fog up the
> country side and your wallet goes ca-ching, ca-ching,
ca-ching like an
> old timey gas pump dinging off the
gallons.
Lynn,
He's talking about keeping your foot on the brake
pedal (not the
emergency brake) only to bring the RPM up, i.e. 1 second or so
after you
step on the gas. The burnout will not being until you release
the brake
pedal.
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three
lefts do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 14:07:48 -0500
From: "Johnson, Scott (CAP, ITS, CA)"
<
SJohnson@gects.ge.com>
Subject: TT
Launching (Was:RE: Team3S: launching)
> <snip>
> For a
good launch, the objective is to get your revs high enough so you
>
can
> launch without "bogging" down the engine. The objective for a good
racing
> launch (with a manual or automatic
> transmission) is to be
able to leave the line without this "bogging"
> effect,
> at the
same time not sitting in one spot of molten rubber and smoke. It's
>
a
> fine line and takes some practice.
<snip>
I've read
the article on getting a good launch in the FAQ, but it is still
somewhat
vague.
Does anyone have anything more specific as to how one might get
a better
launch, or is it merely a result of one's familiarity with the whole
"clutch
out, throttle in"?
Scott
1993 Jet Black RT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 06:55:00 +0100
From: Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: dyno test conditions
james berry wrote:
>
>
>The gear to use is the one that is as close to a 1:1 ratio as possible.
The
> >closer you are to 1:1, the less drivetrain losses you will have.
Usally
> >this is 3rd, or 4th. I don't have the service manual handy,
so i'm not sure
> >which one it is on these cars.
On the 2nd gen
6-speed, it is 4th gear.
> The attached graph is something I was
messing with to determine
> shift points, but it gives all the gear ratios
for my 93 5 speed. The shop
> seemed more concerned with speed than with
ratios.
The CarTest program can also calculate this, as well as
simulate
acceleration using optimal or user-defined shift points. The
URL for
download is on my web page.
> I'm confused as to the
1:1 and the drivetrain loss --- I thought it was just
> function of speed,
e.g. more speed = more loss.
I think it has to do with power loss due to
gear reduction. Since you
are trying to measure power of the engine and
not the transmission,
choosing as close to direct drive as possible will
minimize the effects
of mechanical (dis)advantage from gearing.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:06:56 -0700
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <
rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Math Guys
This weekend I will be in the process of tuning and making my
car race
ready. However, I am unsure of what fuel I should be using. Here
in
Colorado we only have 91 octane unleaded. I have found one pump
that
sells 93, but it has lead in it. I was wondering if I went and
bought
some 100 octane unleaded and mixed it with my 91 octane. How
many
gallons of 100 octane fuel will be needed run 18 pounds of boost
on the
stock fuel system?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:28:30 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Ok, got it all in and
setup. The negative battery terminal was off for over a day.
I
took it for a spin, let it warm up and began using the right petal
heavily. It feels fast,
but I'm not sure about faster. I'm
running with the boost set to 1.00 kg/cm2. By the way,
I have no boost
gauge. According the the boost controller, I've gone up as high as 1.14
or
near a couple of times. It seems to usually be in first gear when it
goes over 1.0. I
have two questions though. Is 1.0 kg/cm2 equal
to 1.0 bar (1.0 bar equals 14.7 psi,
right?), and is it safe for me to
approach 1.14 kg/cm2. I've heard that 15 psi is safe,
and the car seems
to be running fine, but I expected to really notice a difference from 9.5
psi
to 15 psi.
In case you're wondering, the car has the
following:
91.5k miles
Weapon-R air filter (done at 88k
miles)
NGK platinums gapped to .035, and Accel wires (done less than 1k miles
ago)
Gutted cats (done less than 1k miles ago)
thanks
again,
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:33:50 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <
phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Forgot to include that the
injector duty cycle went up to 90% at one point. That's the highest
I
saw it go at any point, although I spent more time watching boost. Not
sure if the above
helps answer the questions below. Also makes me
wonder if I can run more boost, since the
injectors were at 90%.
Jason
and Cristy Barnhart wrote:
> Ok, got it all in and
setup. The negative battery terminal was off for over a day.
I
> took it for a spin, let it warm up and began using the right petal
heavily. It feels fast,
> but I'm not sure about faster. I'm
running with the boost set to 1.00 kg/cm2. By the way,
> I have no
boost gauge. According the the boost controller, I've gone up as high as
1.14 or
> near a couple of times. It seems to usually be in first
gear when it goes over 1.0. I
> have two questions though. Is
1.0 kg/cm2 equal to 1.0 bar (1.0 bar equals 14.7 psi,
> right?), and is it
safe for me to approach 1.14 kg/cm2. I've heard that 15 psi is
safe,
> and the car seems to be running fine, but I expected to really
notice a difference from 9.5
> psi to 15 psi.
> In case
you're wondering, the car has the following:
> 91.5k miles
>
Weapon-R air filter (done at 88k miles)
> NGK platinums gapped to .035,
and Accel wires (done less than 1k miles ago)
> Gutted cats (done less
than 1k miles ago)
>
> thanks again,
> Jason
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:29:58 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Math
Guys
Ricardo, try calling 1-800-race-gas. This Is to locate a Sonoco race
gas
location near you. You should be able to get at least 103 Octane
unleaded. Run
your car to the track with the minimum amount of gas you can
use to make it
there. Put in no less then 5 Gals. Let your car run to make
sure its into the
fuel lines. (good idea to buy a 2nd 5 gal can) in case you
get stuck, but I
put in the race gas from the last trip on the way to the
track. I then know
its in the lines and I just fill up the spare can.
*Its always very risky to ride with gas, especially race gas in the car.
Take
extraordinary care your not rear ended and don't buy a cheep gas
can.
Arty 91 VR-4
<< Subj: Team3S: Math Guys
Date:
3/23/99 12:07:55 PM Pacific Standard Time
From:
rcousar@uswest.com (Ricardo
Cousar)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com)
This
weekend I will be in the process of tuning and making my car
race
ready. However, I am unsure of what fuel I should be using. Here
in
Colorado we only have 91 octane unleaded. I have found one pump
that
sells 93, but it has lead in it. I was wondering if I went and
bought
some 100 octane unleaded and mixed it with my 91 octane.
How many
gallons of 100 octane fuel will be needed run 18 pounds
of boost on the
stock fuel system?
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:05:22 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Math Guys
At 03:29 PM 3/23/99 EST, you wrote:
>Ricardo,
try calling 1-800-race-gas. This Is to locate a Sonoco race gas
>location
near you. You should be able to get at least 103 Octane unleaded.
Argh!
That stuff is $4 per gallon trackside.
What about avgas?
Rich/old
poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:08:24 -0800
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
Merritt wrote:
>
> At
01:04 PM 3/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >What about removing the
fenderwell covers? That would not only allow the
> >intercoolers to
breathe easier, but wouldn't it also vent more air out
> >the
sides/bottom of the car, and help to plant the car to the ground?
>
>Anybody tried this?
>
> Be sure to replace the fenderwell
covers with a screen that will keep
> stones from being thrown off
the tires into the intercoolers.
If you really want to get fancy, cut an
extraction vent through the
fender wells and vent it to the currently none
functional
extraction"Gill" that is part of the ground effects on our cars:
it's
just in front of the doors. This, and small custom vents/grills
inserted
into the back of the blisters would effectively handle our heat
problem.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:24:22 EST
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Math
Guys
Yeah...So whats your point?
Try buying 116 Octane. $4.00 a gal.
will look cheep.
Just think of it as Viagra ($10.00 a pill I hear) for your
car.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 3/23/99 1:09:46 PM Pacific
Standard Time, merritt@cedar-
rapids.net writes:
<< Subj: Re:
Team3S: Math Guys
Date: 3/23/99 1:09:46 PM Pacific Standard
Time
From:
merritt@cedar-rapids.net
(Merritt)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com At
03:29 PM 3/23/99 EST, you wrote:
>Ricardo, try calling
1-800-race-gas. This Is to locate a Sonoco race gas
>location near
you. You should be able to get at least 103 Octane
unleaded.
Argh! That stuff is $4 per gallon
trackside.
What about avgas?
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:38:17 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
launching
As far as I ever knew most, if not all, EBs only lock the
rears. That is
how they teach you to make the rear come around: hit the EB
and turn a
little in the opposite direction you want the rear to go while
holding
some breaks. The sliding coeffecent of friction is way less
than static
and you have sliding rears (skidding) and 1:1= static in front as
the
fronts are rolling 1:1 with the road. You have less friction in
back,
more in front = the back passes the front.
I used to thrill my
kids doing 90 degree turns on Florida clay roads
using this technique. (And
before anyone gasps, it was completely safe
and controlled, out in the
country on farm roads on our grove, so no
children were put in jeopardy doing
this.)
Regards,
Lynn
J. Stephen Gula wrote:
>
I've never pretended to be a car expert, but they teach in driving
>
school that the parking break locks up all four wheels. Am I wrong?
>
> --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:41:33 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <
wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Math Guys
If you are talking about 100LL avgas, it has plenty of lead in
it. Now
I haven't worked at an airport in about 6 years so maybe they
have 100
NO Lead now, but they didn't used
to.
Regards,
Lynn
Ricardo Cousar wrote:
>
> This
weekend I will be in the process of tuning and making my car race
> ready.
However, I am unsure of what fuel I should be using. Here in
> Colorado we
only have 91 octane unleaded. I have found one pump that
> sells 93, but
it has lead in it. I was wondering if I went and bought
> some 100 octane
unleaded and mixed it with my 91 octane. How many
> gallons of 100
octane fuel will be needed run 18 pounds of boost on
> the
>
stock fuel system?
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 13:51:33 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart [
mailto:phnxgld@erols.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
March 23, 1999 12:29 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
<snip>
Jason - 1.0
bar equals 14.7 psi,right?
<snip>
cjw - Yes, that the correct
conversion
<snip>
Jason - but I expected to really notice a
difference from 9.5psi to 15 psi.
<snip>
cjw - Congratulations on
the install. I noticed a BIG difference when I
installed the GReddy, so it
seems like something may be set incorrectly. It
took me quite a while to get
the fuzzy logic programming to function
properly, perhaps Barry, Darcy or
others know the secret for the Apexi. The
number I've seen is 10hp/lb of
boost, so you should feel a 55hp jump. BTW,
how do you know you were getting
9.5psi of boost? The stock gauge is very
inaccurate and I think the stock
setup will only produce 7psi to 8psi.
Soooo, in theory you doubled the boost,
and added roughly 75hp.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored
and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:15:36 -0600
From: Merritt <
merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: launching
At 04:38 PM 3/23/99 -0500, you wrote:
>As far
as I ever knew most, if not all, EBs only lock the rears. That is
>how
they teach you to make the rear come around: hit the EB and turn a
>little
in the opposite direction you want the rear to go while holding
>some
breaks.
Sounds like a handbrake turn. In rallying, we used it to turn a
car around
in its own length on a narrow dirt road. Just for kicks, I used to
come
down a long hill to a T in front of my house in my 74 Vega (in the
winter
with snow on the pavement), grab the handbrake, spin the car around,
and
back up my driveway, all in one long continuous motion. Took a lot
of
practice.
You can also back up at high speeds and then do a
moonshiner turn: i.e.,
get it up to about 20-30 mph in reverse, then snatch
the wheel to the left
or right. The car will slew around instantly. Then you
catch it, shift into
first, and off you go in the opposite direction. Stunt
car drivers do this
on TV all the time. It's easy. The tough part is
completing the turn
without stopping, and to do this you need an automatic
trans. But if you
can do it without stopping, it is the ultimate
maneuver. It tends to
launch front wheel covers into the next county,
though.
>
>I used to thrill my kids doing 90 degree turns on
Florida clay roads
>using this technique.
Clay roads? Must be
north Florida. Down in Brevard County, we had sandy
roads.
I
remember that every day, coming home from high school, I used to take my
1957
Mercury through a 90 right turn and spin it around 360 degrees. Sand
on the
road really helps. I've rallied in that clay (in Alabama) and it
gets messy.
Sigh. Nostalgia just isn't what it used to be.
Rich/old poop/the
older I get, the faster I was
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 15:01:02 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <
bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli P-Zero?
I was just reading about the
new non-Chrysler 200mph AWD Lamborghini Diablo,
http://www.caranddriver.com/ , and was
wondering if any of you racing or
Autobahn types have tried these (or
similar) O-Z rated tires? The Lambo is
not that different from some of
our super-modded S/3ks (if you don't
consider that it's 4x the price), and
the Diablo runs Pirelli P Zero
Asimmetrico; F: 235/35ZR-18 86Y, R:
335/30ZR-18 86Y. Anyone using
them?
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 19:10:49 -0500
From: Pete Ryner <
pryner@ij.net>
Subject: Team3S: Best
Plugs
Help,
I have a 91 VR4 with about 50k on it. Performance is
starting to degrade a little, particularly on acceleration. Getting
some weird sensations from the throttle, almost pushing back under heavy
acceleration. I believe it is time for new plugs and a throttle body
cleaning. (neither has ever been done). Any ideas about plug
choices? I was told a few years back that the car took special plugs,
around $28 each. Most listings I find in parts stores just list a double
platinum plug at around $4 each - doesn't seem right. I don't want to have
to redo the job, but don't want to waste money either. Any
recommendations? Also, any troubleshooting tips? I don't want to put
a fortune into the car, but I LOVE the performance.
Pete
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 16:27:36 -0800
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: AVC-R installation (boost settings)
Hi Jason;
Barry,
Errin, or Jim may be able to add more on advice here, as they are both long
time
SAVC-R users, and I am bit more of a new comer. Nevertheless, you should
notice a seat
of the pants improvement with this installed. I assume
you followed the setup
parameters for tuning it on runs in third, etc. Also,
the overboost spike you have noted
should/will be tuned out by the self
learning mode in the unit...but to get this to
operate smoothly and quickly,
you should continue making the runs suggested in the
instructions. It self
learns for some time so fine adjustments are going on weeks down
the
road.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:02:10 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Best Plugs
The most consistent performer is the NGK double
platinum. You can pick them
up for around $10 each although many places
sell them for much more.
I can tell you from direct experience that Bosch
and Autolite platinums are
complete crap, or at least were in my '94.
Each lasted roughly two weeks.
NGKs seem to last forever. Your mileage
may vary.
If you are running anything higher than stock boost you may
wish to gap the
plugs down to around 0.034". Also check the condition
of the plug wires if
they are the original stockers. Almost time for
the 60K tuneup anyway.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Help,
> I have a 91 VR4 with about
50k on it.
<snip>
I believe it is time for new plugs and
a
> throttle body cleaning. (neither has ever been done). Any
ideas
> about plug choices? I was told a few years back that the
car
> took special plugs, around $28 each. Most listings I find
in
> parts stores just list a double platinum plug at around $4 each
-
> doesn't seem right. I don't want to have to redo the job,
but
> don't want to waste money either. Any
recommendations?
<snipped>
> Pete
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 17:00:05 -0800
From: "Ryan Peterson" <
ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli P-Zero?
Don't know how
helpful I can be. But I have PZero Asimetricos 245 45 17 on
all four
corners of my SL. With AWD you might put the Directionals on
the
back. Fabulous tires though. Was like a whole new car with
them. Not
nearly as easy to roast the fronts as with the stock Yokos
and the thing
cornered like on rails. Never done any racing or compared
data.
Ryan P
- -----Original Message-----
Behalf Of Bob
Forrest
Subject: Team3S: Tire Question-- Anyone using Pirelli
P-Zero?
and the Diablo runs Pirelli P Zero
Asimmetrico; F: 235/35ZR-18
86Y, R: 335/30ZR-18 86Y. Anyone using
them?
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:14:44 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <
beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVC-R installation (boost settings)
My '94 read 12.5 psi on an SPI gauge
as measured from a T in the FPR line at
the rear of the intake
plenum.
Supposedly '93 and earlier was limited to a maximum of 9.5
psi. Note that
anything from 6.5 up is considered "normal" the way I
read the manual
anyway.
Apparently AVC-R will not learn above 90%
IDC. This is a safety feature
since running at or above 90% iDC can
damage the injectors. Since some
injectors (some Bosch models for
instance) CLOSE FULLY when they fail I
guess Apex'i chose to not be the
source of premature injector failure.
As to programming, I always start
learning in as low as gear as feasible,
usually 2nd, and start with a
conservative BADC to minimize spikes. Works
100% of the time for me and
I am happy with the results. Others just set
the BADC as high as
possible and live with the spikes. I prefer to increase
BADC from some
minimal gradually until I begin to overshoot and back off
from there.
Arguably transient spikes are not a big deal. Extended
overshoot is a
problem though IMO so I prefer to sidestep the issue by never
dealing with
them.
I suggest trying it either way and use what works best for the
individual's
car.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> cjw - Congratulations on the install. I noticed a BIG
difference when I
> installed the GReddy, so it seems like something may
be set
> incorrectly. It
> took me quite a while to get the fuzzy
logic programming to function
> properly, perhaps Barry, Darcy or others
know the secret for the
> Apexi. The
> number I've seen is 10hp/lb
of boost, so you should feel a 55hp jump. BTW,
> how do you know you were
getting 9.5psi of boost? The stock gauge is very
> inaccurate and I think
the stock setup will only produce 7psi to 8psi.
> Soooo, in theory you
doubled the boost, and added roughly 75hp.
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:36:46 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <
rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Camber fix for lowering springs
Ok guys, I finally got through to
my suspension mechanic and here is
the low down on how to fix the negative
camber created by lowering
springs.
On the front you must elongate the
shock tower mounting holes to give
extra positive camber. This means make the
holes longer toward the
engine bay, not toward the wheel. Do it nice and
clean, don't widen
the hole, just make it longer, like a perfect oval. You
can add
washers under the nuts after you reinstall the strut to further
hold
it in place. It will not slip without severe impact. How much
depends
on how far out you are, 3/16" to 5/16" should give you enough to
use
the stock adjusters again.
The rear is different because the front
struts mount to the spindles
in two places, making the strut angle a useable
adjustment. This one I
knew but the rear I wanted to here direct from
Bill.
The rear you must elongate the sub frame where the lower control
arm
attaches near the differential. The upper arm has the cam adjuster
for
the camber adjustment and the lower is fixed. Again, don't widen,
just
elongate, this time toward the wheel. Make sure you keep the hole
true
and NO bigger than the control arm bushing. Again you can add
washers
to help hold the position after you are done but these bolts are 17
to
19 mm and will take some torque. Best advise is to zero the
cam
adjuster and elongate the hole to bring the camber to near zero
and
fine adjust with the stock adjusters.
WARNING: This job is not for
any Bozo, and a sloppy mechanic can
wallow the holes out bad if careless. The
is done on race cars from
Ferrari's to Toyotas so it isn't your back yard cob
job.
I will give the Name, address, and phone number of my shop to
anyone
who wants to come to Cincinnati to have Bill work on their car, but
I
won't have him pestered with calls for free advise. He has spent
20
years perfecting his experience, and has a sizable back log of work.
If
you intend to call and pick his brain, get out your credit card and
pay for
it. I will direct specific questions you may have to him on a
limited basis,
cause I spend money there. Try to understand this is a
business, and it can't
exist without paying work.
Hope this helps all who needed it, sorry for
the slow response.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:45:10 -0500
From: Pete Ryner <
pryner@ij.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Best
Plugs
- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE756E.1A4F2780
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Thanks
for the info. What is the plug #?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Barry E. King [
SMTP:beking@home.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
March 23, 1999 8:02 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
RE: Team3S: Best Plugs
The most consistent performer is the NGK double
platinum. You can pick them
up for around $10 each although many places
sell them for much more.
I can tell you from direct experience that Bosch
and Autolite platinums are
complete crap, or at least were in my '94.
Each lasted roughly two weeks.
NGKs seem to last forever. Your mileage
may vary.
If you are running anything higher than stock boost you may
wish to gap the
plugs down to around 0.034". Also check the condition
of the plug wires if
they are the original stockers. Almost time for
the 60K tuneup anyway.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Help,
> I have a 91 VR4 with about
50k on it.
<snip>
I believe it is time for new plugs and
a
> throttle body cleaning. (neither has ever been done). Any
ideas
> about plug choices? I was told a few years back that the
car
> took special plugs, around $28 each. Most listings I find
in
> parts stores just list a double platinum plug at around $4 each
-
> doesn't seem right. I don't want to have to redo the job,
but
> don't want to waste money either. Any
recommendations?
<snipped>
> Pete
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm-
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