--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #129
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Saturday, March 20 1999         Volume 01 : Number 129




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:22:19 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes

> My advise in this situation is to take it to the dealer or Brake Shop ASAP.

I second Darcys advice ! It sounds to me that you do have a worn bearing on one
side and therefore one of the pads (inner/outer) is worn down more than the
other (and mye angeled out).

Good luck,
Roger


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 11:04:14 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Paint and cooling question

> of the same car, and electronically changed the color, and I kinda like the
> result....any comments ??

Do it ! Even the black paint on them starts fading as the salt on our roads does
really bad to them :(
 
> Even if it's still cold here (was snowing this morning....sorry Roger, bad
> news, Ca weather was better) I noticed that the underhood temperature is
> HIGH....

Nooo, I don't want to come back (but I want to drive a normal car again).

The scoops are already lined out and unfortunately they are too expensive in my
point of view.
Another idea is to remove the rubber-strip up on the firewall that seals the
hood. It can be easily be removed and should help to extract the heat (and helps
to get the ice off the windscreen, hehe). I'm not sure if this produces a
positive pressure situation on high speeds (like an induction hood) but it's
worth to try this out. I'll try to do this next week with all the temp meters I
have handy for comparison.

Regards,
Roger

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:06:14 -0600
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S: You guys have got to see this!

Some people have too much money!

 Miniature Viper Engine
http://www.viper-v10.com/

96 R/T TT
91 R/T TT

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:38:21 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

Does anyone know if the hood insulation from Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
Dodge('91RT/TT).  i.e. are the hoods the same.

I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I think that I can get
it from Mitsu for $40-$45.

Thanks,

Mark
'91RT/TT
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:46:02 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You guys have got to see this!

Trevor James wrote:

> Some people have too much money!
>
>  Miniature Viper Engine
> http://www.viper-v10.com/
>

For the car enthusiast who has(or whose friends have) WAAAAAAAY to much money!  Yeah
it's cool, but WHY!?!?

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:06:45 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: You guys have got to see this!

> Some people have too much money!
>
>  Miniature Viper Engine
> http://www.viper-v10.com/

If it is 1/4 scale, why doesn't it put out 112.5 HP?  ;-)  Weak!

- -Matt

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:16:42 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

They are essentially the same car in the first generation with different wings and
different front air dams. The insulation should be identical. Let us know what it like
when received (folded, cracked, etc) and if instalation is simple. This is one of the
manufacturing flaws with these cars>>>they should have extended the aluminum heat
protector more so that this insulation didn't peel off from heat.

Best

Darc



> Does anyone know if the hood insulation from Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
> Dodge('91RT/TT).  i.e. are the hoods the same.
>
> I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I think that I can get
> it from Mitsu for $40-$45.



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:40:43 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

I replaced the hood insulation on my 92 Dodge RT/T with a part received from
Mitsubishi.  The fit was perfect.  I received it in a large box without any
damage to the unit.  Make sure you keep the mounting clips.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth



>
>> Does anyone know if the hood insulation from Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
>> Dodge('91RT/TT).  i.e. are the hoods the same.
>>
>> I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I think that I can
get
>> it from Mitsu for $40-$45.
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:42:33 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

In a message dated 3/19/99 2:39:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com writes:

<< Does anyone know if the hood insulation from Mitsu('91VR4) will fit on
 Dodge('91RT/TT).  i.e. are the hoods the same.
 
 I want to replace my insulation and Dodge wants $70 I think that I can get
 it from Mitsu for $40-$45.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Mark
 '91RT/ >>
 *************Mark,
                 It is the same part, get the Mitsu brand.
                              Wayne 3SI #87
                               '91 Stealth TT
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 15:30:07 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: You guys have got to see this!

Actually it's just about what it should be. Aince it's 1/4 scale we divide
be 4^3 (three dimensions): 450 HP / 4^3 = ~7 HP

Also, take the volume of the full scale v10 (488 CID) and divide by 4^3, and
we get ~7.6 CID

450HP / 488 CID = .92 HP/CID
7 HP / 7.6 CID = .92 HP/CID

At first I also thought, why not 112.5 HP? But then when I thought about it
more, they really meant 1/4 scale!

omar
92 r/t

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Matt Jannusch
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 2:07 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: You guys have got to see this!
>
>
> > Some people have too much money!
> >
> >  Miniature Viper Engine
> > http://www.viper-v10.com/
>
> If it is 1/4 scale, why doesn't it put out 112.5 HP?  ;-)  Weak!
>
> -Matt
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:57:06 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: cooling tactic

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 11:04 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
<snip>
Another idea is to remove the rubber-strip up on the firewall that seals the
hood. It can be easily be removed and should help to extract the heat (and
helps
to get the ice off the windscreen, hehe). I'm not sure if this produces a
positive pressure situation on high speeds (like an induction hood) but it's
worth to try this out. I'll try to do this next week with all the temp
meters I
have handy for comparison.

Regards,
Roger
=====================================
Roger...

Please post your results on before and after removing the firewall
weather-strip. I've tried it and it seems like there's a difference, but my
experience is entirely subjective.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 14:28:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Non-Performance Tech Question

Hi guys,
   I have been lurking of late but I seem to have a problem.  The
engine compartment light does not work. I tried a new bulb and that
does not seem to work either...anyhow, should I get a new part or is
there another thing I neglected???? BTW, what is the part# for a 1st
3KGT foglight???? Is it a H3, or H@ or H1??? TIA.




==
                                     -Frank-
                                    "JEEPers"
     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
     http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:37:44 -0600
From: "John Vance" <jvance@TheRamp.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Non-Performance Tech Question

Try turnibg on your parking lights, it's the only way mine will come on.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, March 19, 1999 4:30 PM
Subject: Team3S: Non-Performance Tech Question


>Hi guys,
>   I have been lurking of late but I seem to have a problem.  The
>engine compartment light does not work. I tried a new bulb and that
>does not seem to work either...anyhow, should I get a new part or is
>there another thing I neglected???? BTW, what is the part# for a 1st
>3KGT foglight???? Is it a H3, or H@ or H1??? TIA.
>
>
>
>
>==
>                                     -Frank-
>                                    "JEEPers"
>     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>     http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
>
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:20:51 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Non-Performance Tech Question

Frank,

Somebody else hit it on the head. You have to turn on the parking lights
(at least) to get it to come on.  The salesman who sold me my car said
that was a feature and evidence that the Stealth was a smart car: the
light doesn't come on until you need it (as evidenced by the fact that
you have your other lights on ;-)

Regards,
Lynn

PS Do you know the difference between a car salesman and a software
salesman???   The car salesman knows when he is lying to you.

Frank Chen wrote:
>
> Hi guys,
>    I have been lurking of late but I seem to have a problem.  The
> engine compartment light does not work. I tried a new bulb and that
> does not seem to work either...anyhow, should I get a new part or is
> there another thing I neglected???? BTW, what is the part# for a 1st
> 3KGT foglight???? Is it a H3, or H@ or H1??? TIA.
>                                      -Frank-
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:52:38 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Cheap power

I keep hearing about a simple way of getting horsepower by
installing a $2 aquarium valve somewhere in the turbo system.

Can anyone elaborate further on this?

Where does it go?
What does it do?
Got any pictures?

Rich/old poop/plural champion
 
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:57:58 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Dropping the pipes

I have found someone who might be able to fabricate an exhaust system
without worrying about certain niggling little rules.

If he agrees, I'm going to have him gut my precats, remove the cat, and
build a new exhaust system.
I'll store the old exhaust, cat and all, in case my state invokes annual
emission inspections.

Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do anything nasty? I know I
might get flames out the back, but are there any other problems to worry
about?

Rich/old poop/plural champion/94 VR4
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 18:57:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Non-Performance Tech Question

William,
   I checked and it looks like the socket is messed up.  I will have
to check make sure everything else is okay.  I got a ot of time
tomorrow to that. ; )  anyhow, no one has answered my questions about
the fog light bulb type....
==
                                     -Frank-
                                    "JEEPers"
     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
     http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:10:55 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes

>I have found someone who might be able to fabricate an exhaust system

>without worrying about certain niggling little rules.
>If he agrees, I'm going to have him gut my precats, remove the cat, and
>build a new exhaust system.
>I'll store the old exhaust, cat and all, in case my state invokes annual
emission inspections.
>Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do anything nasty? I know I
might get flames out the back, but are there any other problems to worry
about.


In particular, I wonder what the oxygen sensors will
read and what the ECU will do with the information.
Regards, ptg

Rich/old poop/plural champion/94 VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:27:53 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: dyno test conditions

Question for Roger, Jim or Mike

I plan on trying to run my car on the Huntington Beach, ca AWD
dyno again [ first test resulted in dyno failure ]. I would like to
know what gear they tested your cars in. When they set up my car
 for the aborted test they were using 2nd gear [ 80 mph at redline ].
While this is probably suitable for HP it must give a lower drivetrain
loss figure. Wheel speed, differential and driveshafts are all being
driven at a lower rate.


                                     Jim Berry                    ------93
"arrest me red" Stealth  TT -----
                   SSBC @  1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @ .034
                             G--Tech    0 --60  4.9 sec.    1/4  13.3 @ 110
                                               [ suspension mods next ]

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:43:00 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes

>
>
>In particular, I wonder what the oxygen sensors will
>read and what the ECU will do with the information.
>Regards, ptg

I was going to preserve the oxygen sensor in the rear precat.
Are you wondering about anything else?

Rich/old poop
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:08:13 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dropping the pipes

As long as the sensor is hot enough, and I don't see why it wouldn't be just
as hot with or without the pre-cats, it will read no differently than if all
were stock.  Can't think of any reason why it won't work as before.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----

<snip>

> >Question: Will gutting and removing the cats do anything nasty? I know I
> might get flames out the back, but are there any other problems to worry
> about.
>
>
> In particular, I wonder what the oxygen sensors will
> read and what the ECU will do with the information.
> Regards, ptg
>
> Rich/old poop/plural champion/94 VR4

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 22:29:13 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cheap power

Merritt wrote:
> getting horsepower installing a $2 aquarium valve in turbo system.
> Where does it go?

On the vacuum/pressure hose going from the boost control solenoid, down
to the wastgates.

> What does it do?

Vents partial pressure away from reaching the wastegate actuators,
thereby delaying opening the wastegates until a higher SOURCE (manifold)
pressure is reached; this increases boost from stock settings.
Not as elegant or as easily/precisely controllable in-cockpit as
electronic boost controller, and does entail a slower boost
spoolup-to-final-value than electronic (a very minor amount) but works
and ultracheap.

Jack Tertadian
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:12:01 PST
From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: disableing the factory alarm

Hi guys...another problem  (two actually)
1. I jsut has arty's old stock turbo's put on my stealth, but Im
guessing the reject mechanics reconnected the factory alarm or
something.  After I shut the engine off, the blickers and interior and
dash lights start to blick once every 5 or so seconds...a low
blink...and the engine will crank over, but it won't fire up. Im
guessing this is the factory "anti theft" system or something. Is there
any way of diableing it (a fuse to pull, or wires to disconnect) I don't
wish to use the alarm, or to even have it in the car, so if it means
cutting wires and rippig stuff out...so be it.

2.  I seem to have a striped shaft or something in the transfer case. 
when the power hits in the first three gears, the car seems to me like
the driveshaft is becomeing disconnected from the tranny (the machanic
told me the "one of your 4wd shafts is striped, so it's only fwd
now"...I thought he was just trying to piss me off or something becuase
when I brought the car in he thought I was going to be a pushover kid
(im in college for Automotive Engineering)  anyway...when this happens,
I get a "burning" smell comig from the AC vents, and the car feels like
something is "striped, but accasionally catching" and I get a bucking
sensation....definatly driveline probs...the rear of the car will
vibrate a little..like wheel hop, but that's not it.

Are the transfer cases rebuildable?  does mistu sell the parts
individually?  Anyone have this problem? Am I screwed?
Nathan Crisman
91 Talon AWD (16g, FMIC, going faster)
92 Stealth TT (shift before 4000rpm in 1,2,3 or it really sucks!)

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Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:25:21 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cheap power

> I keep hearing about a simple way of getting horsepower by
> installing a $2 aquarium valve somewhere in the turbo system.

Cheap when watching some rules ! Goto my website and see under Turbo-Basics for
more details :)

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

Regards,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:38:04 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: dyno test conditions

Hey James,

> I would like to know what gear they tested your cars in. When they set up my
> car for the aborted test they were using 2nd gear [ 80 mph at redline ].

A dyno run should be done in the most possible 1:1 gear. But it depends on the
dyno as the ones we use measure the loss that is different in the gears. This
finally "should" give you the same results. Unfortunately, a run in 3rd resulted
in more power on mine car and we think that this was due the winter tires
slipping and almost glowing away.

> While this is probably suitable for HP it must give a lower drivetrain
> loss figure. Wheel speed, differential and driveshafts are all being
> driven at a lower rate.

I'm pretty sure that the dyno must first be "driven in". Therefore, they don't
wanted to run it up high up to 170mph through all the gears to find out what
power/torque you have on what speed.

As you have about the same G-Tech results as my 93 you should be able to run in
4th the same amount of power. But make sure that the car is getting enough cold,
fresh air to simulate as good as possible the real ambient. We had low ambient
temps with the hood open and got therefore an accurate ambient as when the hood
is down and the K&N sucks engine-heated air in. Please also try to find out more
about the make and software release.

Kind Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 21:42:46 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dropping the pipes

> I was going to preserve the oxygen sensor in the rear precat.

You must keep both in, otherwise the ECU may give you an error code and the
system may selects the low-octane fuel MAP for the safe way. You'll not have any
problem with gutted cats but we currently don't know how the tourque will be
affected in the lower rpm. Anyways, maybe the small turbos will not gain from
this while bigger ones will definitely !

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 01:17:45 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Interesting explanation by Garrett on turbos & operating procedures

Interesting turbo explanation with diagrams & procedures.
go here.
http://www.compulink.co.uk/~joss/TF.html
Arty 91 VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 23:54:09 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Water Injection update

Dear power-seekers :)

A week ago I got in contact with a technical/sales person at Aquamist, UK and
asked some questions, especially regarding a Group Purchase.

Let me recap : Water injection is an old known way to prevent detonation while
increasing boost introduced during the second world war to provide the fighter
aircrafts with much more power for some minutes. Some years ago, as the
technique became more sophisticated, water injection found it's way back to race
cars, especially Turbo cars that where known for a lot power but not a long
life. Finally the system became that perfect that some factory cars, like the
Ford Cosworth XR-4 where delivered with teh system already attached.

Now, we all know that the TT engine in our cars tend to get detonation very
early due to the high temps in the combustion chamber. Increasing the amount of
fuel helps to cool it down but the mixture becomes way too rich and power is
wasted. Also to do this, the stock fuel system must be modified as the injectors
start to max out just after 1.00 bars (dependant on the ambient) and the fuel
pump runs out of steam too.

Yeah, yu knew this already so here the latest infos I got from ERL:

> Spraying fuel upstream will prevent detonation, but you need a great deal
> of it for your cars. Alternatively, water is a great deal and more effective
> than fuel and it will not affect your A/F ratio and may even allow you to
> run 1.1-1.2, or even higher without add changing new and bigger injectors.
> See the following links:
>
> Sport Compact Car Magazine (Mike Kojima)
> http://www.se-r.net/about/200sx/scc/feb99/water_injection.html
>
> SAAB press release:
> http://www.aquamist.co.uk/dc/coollinks3/index/rally/saab/press/press.html
>
> Both of the above examples are using water effectively and can be used as a
> guide for your water injection tuning.  Eventually, you will require more
> fuel in order to run more boost should your pistons allow it.  But meanwhile,
> you should be able to improve your detonation resistance limits.
> Make sure you purchase a system with a "race" pump.

Well, they do not sell the normal pump anymore, so only the Racing System
(bigger pump) is available.

> It would be interested to know at what boost level and power you can
> achieve at your present set up.

Hehe, sure and that's why I do this upgrade in steps and before adding the new
fuel system.

> You need to GP purchase 10 systems (mixed) for 15% discount of list and the
> next break will be 25% over 25 units (maximum discount).

Unfortunately, they are not able to send the System 1 or 2 directly to all
participants from the UK due to the shipping costs but they would send all of
them to an address in the US where it then must be distributed. Even more it
doesn't make sense when I'd distribute them as shipping them from Switzerland is
as expensive as from the UK.

The list prices are :
System 1 (Race pump) GBP 307.80
System 2 (Race pump) GBP 556.20

Of course the systems can be upgraded with the different parts. Also there is a
new, cheaper System 2 available but I haven't got yet an explanation about this.

My schedule is to install the system within the next weeks but I've not yet
decided if I should start with the System 1 or directly with System 2. Also I
can't get the lower price if I'm not ordering within a group purchase.

So, everybody who's interested please e-mail me privately at
robby@swissonline.ch for more details. Of course the topic itselfs is open for
discussion on the list.

Regards to all,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT (soon on the wet way)
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 09:31:59 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection update

Hehe, turns out that Mike Kojima, Jim Wold and Clark Steppler are personal
friends.
I'll check what they think about this setup (for a 300ZX and a 3S).

I'll keep you informed

Henri

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 12:57:56 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection update

aarrgggl, sorry, il was supposed to be a PRIVATE response....

Damm outlook.....

Henri

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Genesiscon
Lehir
Sent: Saturday, 20. March 1999 09:32
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: Roger Gerl (E-mail)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection update


Hehe, turns out that Mike Kojima, Jim Wold and Clark Steppler are personal
friends.
I'll check what they think about this setup (for a 300ZX and a 3S).

I'll keep you informed

Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:09:00 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

On a side note, since I live in central Florida, and winter here is
Jan.28th from 4-10 pm, would removing the insulation be bad? I obviously
don't need it to warm anything up, and do you guys think it would  help
dissapate the extreme heat here? I'm going to remove the
weatherstripping at the back of the bay, near the firewall, and do you
think I should remve the insulation too?

Matt
3/Si #311
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:45:21 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: HKS Performance & Show parts etc 4 sale

All performance parts are 100% PERFECT in every way.
.
HKS Cosmos high performance in tank fuel pump upgrade $300.00 BO

Cartech Fuel pressure reg. $160.00

HKS Twin Intercoolers (sugg retail $1595.00)  $950.00

6 HKS 550cc balanced injectors (sugg retail $1890.00)  $1000.00 or BO

Twin TEC 15G turbos  (these are 100% PERFECT) $1500.

18"x 8.5" Chrome 6 spoke VR4 factory rims w center cap set of 4 $1200.00
 4 Mich Pilot 245/40/ZR18 SXMXX3 Set of 4  wheels & tires $1600.00 or BO

 Selling a Very High "Show Quality" Plenum with a true Mirror finish.
 Will sell for $500.00 with core exchange or BO

Other available parts from a 91 VR-4
Full interior available (Beige leather) Power driver & pass seats $450 or BO
Front & Rear Active Aero
Air cond unit, Stock CD player

Please, Email directly
Arty 91 VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 07:50:10 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

Hi Michael;

Although it sounds like a good idea (and may be), it may also introduce an inordinate
amount of heat on the paint in that area.

What someone needs to do,( and I have been trying to figure out who to contact) is
design a vented insert (with a cutout template included in the kit) that we set into the
back of our shocker tower blisters for heat extraction. Something classy with louvers to
prevent rain getting in. This would negate buying the expensive Bozz extractors and
people could modify their own shock tower covers. I suspect their would be a good market
for it and wish  I had the setup to do it. It has to be classy, and functional to
succeed. The idea is free..any takers? Things done well (like the recent 3S CD) do have
a market.

Best

Darc

Michael Booker wrote:

> Jan.28th from 4-10 pm, would removing the insulation be bad?

snip

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 08:17:13 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: disableing the factory alarm

Nathan;

Sounds like transfer case/stripped spline problems....better than a tranny...talk to
Brad, he has one for a 92 I was eying up for a spare.

But before you jump the gun, get a second opinion. Your mechanic doesn't sound all that
knowledgeable if he manged to give you an interior light show with his turbo
instalation.



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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 08:18:55 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: System disabler

Hi Team;

Has anyone installed or had installed, a disabler which prevents the car
from being hot wired/stolen? I know most of the new vehicles on the
market now have them built into the ignition system. No key, it won't
go, and sets off an alarm to boot. Is there any reasonable aftermarket
product out there we can use that'll do approximately the same thing?
Price?

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:32:28 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut

I did the MAS mod.  I took the small streightener out.  It did help with
fuel cut, but made the car idle bad.  I found my cut was mostly on cold
days (more dense air). Also reset the ECU (remove the battery cables for 20
minutes).  Fuel cut will come back but it takes it longer.  Seems it
doesn't learn the fuel cut thing for a few good runs :)

Brian

Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window whenever my SPI boost
guage hits 18psi.  Is there anyway to get rid of this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way?  I know that in my Talon that I had last year
a guuted Mass Air Sensor and a few other free be tricks eliminated this.
I know that is not a good idea on these cars but does anyone have any
other ideas?
Del

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 11:43:04 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: Transmissions and mods for NA DOHC cars

With the help of Michael Booker and others, I believe I now have a
complete picture of the transmissions to be found in our cars according
to the type of car.  It is fairly straight forward, so I don't know why
it seemed so difficult at the outset. To summarize:

All Turbo charged cars have Getrag transmission: earlier turbo cars have
5-spd Getrags and later model turbo cars have 6-spd Getrags. (There have
been rumors of turbos with automatics [from the factory], but, to my
knowledge, nobody has been able to confirm or document this.)

All Non-Turbo cars have Mitsu build transmissions in either the 5-spd
manual or automatic form. 

This started with the question of "why shouldn't a NA DOHC engine be
modified to produce more HP?"  With the answer "because the
transmissions won't stand up to much more."  Somebody added, astutely,
that it might not be the transmission itself, rather it is because
(paraphrased) the running gear of a FWD is by nature lightly built and
would be the area most stressed by large increases in power.

As the saying goes: "A word to the wise is sufficient."

Regards,
Lynn
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:44:02 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes

This is a strange problem.  I know what he's talking about but I don't have
a fix.  It happens on my car every once in a while.  I'll turn into a gas
station and hit the brakes right as I turn and the brakes almost go out.
 It's like the brake lines get crimped or something. It makes a ugly noise.
 It seems to only happen when you turn real sharp and hit the brakes at the
same time.  I've taken my car to autocrosses and never had it happen .  It
might be only at lower speeds.?


Brian

I second Darcys advice ! It sounds to me that you do have a worn bearing on
one
side and therefore one of the pads (inner/outer) is worn down more than the
other (and mye angeled out).

Good luck,
Roger


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 10:48:40 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: cooling question

I knew a guy in Tampa that had some made with a forward facing scoop.  They
seemed to help.  If you do the forward facing ones it might be good to take
the rear gasket that runs along the back of the engine compartment off.
 This would help get more of the hot air out if you forcing air in.  The
ones he had made cost about $200 but look awesome.  I wish I had a pic :(

Brian


Hi Henri;

As Chris noted, Bozz  makes (pricey) extraction scoops (heat extraction
isn't a bad
idea), and at least one member, Todd Shelton, has forward facing ram type
scoops where
these shock tower "blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have it
handy)...are you
out here Todd?

Best

Darc


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 11:51:07 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: System disabler

Darc,

This is not exactly what you are asking about, but my alarm system has a
fuel cut off hidden on the fuel line, so that if the alarm is set off it
shuts off the fuel.  An electronic stop would likely be bypassed by a
hot wire, but with this they may get the car started, but they won't get
far.  I believe the alarm guys said the fuel in the system would not
last more than a mile at the outside.  I think there are several alarms
with this type of fuel shut off system.

Regards,
Lynn

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
 go, and sets off an alarm to boot. Is there any reasonable aftermarket
> product out there we can use that'll do approximately the same thing?
> Price?
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 18:50:10 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: affect of alignment on stability

>From previous postings it seems that some of you (e.g.- Barry King) have
done some experimenting with different wheel alignments or at least have
a good understanding of how wheel alignment affects handling and
stability.  I would greatly appreciate your comments on my problem
described below.

Lately I have become increasingly disappointed with the handling of my
car, and I'm hoping a four-wheel alignment would remedy the situation.
The car tracks straight and has moderate wander, pretty normal, I
think.  But in the corners it seems to oversteer excessively, especially
when I lift off the throttle (to the point where I find myself
countersteering to avoid a spinout, sometimes to an uncomfortable
degree).  Past experience has taught me that in a hard corner, my car
will tend to understeer under acceleration and oversteer when
decelerating, but now things seem to have shifted more towards the
oversteer end of the spectrum.  Also, the car feels less stable in long
sweeping high speed bends on the Autobahn than it used to, especially in
the wet (I get a kind of floating, sliding sensation, definitely not on
rails).  Today I was following a new 911 on such a bend at about 140 mph
and it sure looked a lot more stable than my car felt.  I have tried
rotating the tires and always make sure they are warmed up before
testing things out.  I do not recall hitting anything that might have
knocked things out of adjustment and tire wear is even (at least half
the tread left on the Pilots after 25k miles) but I can't think of
another explanation.  Any suggestions?

Also, this may or may not be related, but my outer-right brake pad is
wearing down more quickly than the other.  The calipers move smoothly
and do not appear to be sticking.

Thanx!! -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 11:55:59 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: affect of alignment on stability

>Lately I have become increasingly disappointed with the handling of my
>car, <snip> in the corners it seems to oversteer excessively, especially
>when I lift off the throttle (to the point where I find myself
>countersteering to avoid a spinout, sometimes to an uncomfortable
>degree). 

Sounds like low tire pressure in the rears. I run 44 in front and 38 in the
rear in my Michelins
when on track. It corners neutral, even when entering a turn at 125. It may
be that as your tires are aging, they require different tire pressures. Try
the old autocross technique of chalking your sidewalls to see if they are
rolling under.

>
>Also, this may or may not be related, but my outer-right brake pad is
>wearing down more quickly than the other.  The calipers move smoothly
>and do not appear to be sticking.

Try bleeding the brakes. I had the same problem (same pad, too), and it
turned out to be air in the caliper.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 12:05:26 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BE72C9.F1085280
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

On the VR4's.

You have two sensors on the front wheels that measure the speed of the tires
for ABS reasons.

The ABS computer thinks one wheel is partially locking   when you make a
turn, thus setting off the ABS actuator (Pumping the brakes)

While this is not entirely normal, it is not uncommon for multi-channel ABS
systems. I would suggest cleaning your ABS sensor and exciter ring.  You may
have metal stuck to the magnet causing a slightly false signal.

> Brad
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com [mailto:bcdmad@concentric.net] On
Behalf Of Brian Danley
Sent: Saturday, March 20, 1999 9:44 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brakes

This is a strange problem.  I know what he's talking about but I don't have
a fix.  It happens on my car every once in a while.  I'll turn into a gas
station and hit the brakes right as I turn and the brakes almost go out.
It's like the brake lines get crimped or something. It makes a ugly noise.
It seems to only happen when you turn real sharp and hit the brakes at the
same time.  I've taken my car to autocrosses and never had it happen .  It
might be only at lower speeds.?


Brian

I second Darcys advice ! It sounds to me that you do have a worn bearing on
one
side and therefore one of the pads (inner/outer) is worn down more than the
other (and mye angeled out).

Good luck,
Roger


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


- ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BE72C9.F1085280
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef;
name="winmail.dat"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: attachment;
filename="winmail.dat"

-------------code violation snipped------------
 
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Mar 1999 15:32:31 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation

if ever should it rain, the rain will most likely boil off the hood if
you've been running long and hard and let the car sit for a while. i don't
think you want that :)

Omar
92 r/t

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Michael Booker
> Sent: Saturday, March 20, 1999 9:09 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth-3000GT Hood Insulation
>
>
> On a side note, since I live in central Florida, and winter here is
> Jan.28th from 4-10 pm, would removing the insulation be bad? I obviously
> don't need it to warm anything up, and do you guys think it would  help
> dissapate the extreme heat here? I'm going to remove the
> weatherstripping at the back of the bay, near the firewall, and do you
> think I should remve the insulation too?
>
> Matt
> 3/Si #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #129
****************************

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