--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #128
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Friday, March 19 1999          Volume 01 : Number 128




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:23:15 -0700
From: "Michael O'Krancy" <mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
Subject: Team3S: stumbling stealth

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_000_01BE716C.637DEBE0
Content-Type: text/plain

Gentlemen,


How are things?  I read Michael Reiss' post to the list about having the
hesitation problem under load as well as the associated motor mount
replacement solution.  I seem to have the same problem however I would like
to describe the problem to you and ask that confirm if it sounds similar to
yours (Michael), as well as solicit any comments from the group.

First off, when I rev the engine in neutral, it absolutely roars without
hesitation.  It's a thing of beauty really.  This leads me to believe that
the problem lies not in the engine but somewhere else down the power train
line.  Anyway as I accelerate hard, the car stumbles and buckles.  Worst.
The clunking sound you described is something I am also hearing and
associated with this is usually a series of almost "pulsing" hesitations.
Now as speed increases, the problem seems to fade.  It is almost as if under
a certain RPM and speed the car finds a resonant frequency that results in
this loss of power. 

Worth mentioning Mike is that I am not experiencing the shifter play that
you described.  I would really like to experience smooth aggressive
acceleration but as it stands, I am at a loss for what to do. 

regards

Mike O'Krancy
91STT, bone stock.


- ------_=_NextPart_000_01BE716C.637DEBE0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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- ------_=_NextPart_000_01BE716C.637DEBE0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:43:14 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth

Hi Michael;

Gapping and or replacing your plugs to .034 will likely take care of most of the
problem. New plug wires are always helpful, as with age they begin to break down
a bit. However, those provided with our cars are generally  excellent for stock
conditions.When did you last change your fuel and air filters??

A stumble under load/acceleration will in 99/100 cases not show if you sit and
rev the engine in neutral. If it does miss you need a tune up 9or more) bad.
Regap or replace the plugs if old at .034 and check/replace  your filters and
you will likely have the problem solved. Also, insure you are using high octane
or you'll get stumbling for sure. This sort of stumble cases a brief clunking in
the drive components as the hesitation is picked up by them in both directions.
Once resolved, the clunk you describe will be gone.

Best

Darc



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 11:18:14 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth

You could be overboosting at lower RPM and hitting fuel cut.  Then as
RPM rise and your stock turbo's boost falls off, your stumbling stops.

Check your boost control solenoid valve.  It is on the center of the
firewall, and is the right-most (closest to driver) solenoid.  Make sure
the hoses are OK and the electrical connector didn't come off.

Good luck,
Ken

- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 12:20:40 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth

> You could be overboosting at lower RPM and hitting fuel cut.

This doesn't sound like fuel cut as he never lost his teeths in the steering
wheel. But it comes close as the timing can be retarded.

To check out the proper operation of the stuff either hook up a check device to
read the code or follow the procedure described in the manual to check it out by
"hand".

Before you go to a dealer do this :

- - check MAS wires properly hooked up and everything mentioned before
- - use a fuel injection cleaner to make sure the valves are closing properly
  and the injectors can spray the juice.
- - check (at least) the front plugs for their color. Regap as adviced by Darc.
- - check the plug wires (at least the front ones)

As you are having some miles on the car I suppose the 60k was made long time
before. Do you know if the pulley has been replaced. It just sounds like the
timing is off it's way and if there is a weak part the belt can slip causing a
wrong timing.

Sorry, there are many of possibilities.

Hope it helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:32:06 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

If the ECU is doing this calculation and it is that far off what does
that say about how the ECU is controling the injector duration (mostly)
and timing.  Is the inaccuracy dealth with elsewhere in the code??

Regards,
Lynn

Barry E. King wrote:
>
> The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as a measurement of
> boost.  On my '94 the needle is pretty much pegged at anything over
> 10 psi as measured with an SPI gauge.
>
> Correcting the stock boost gauge is not feasible since the calculation
> is performed by the code in the ECU.  Besides that, it would always be
> an approximation, not a true measurement.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:31:01 -0500
From: "Micheal A. Whelan" <mwhelan@pdtech.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Service Manual Source

I purchased my manual directly from Mopar.  Phone is 800 890 4038 in the US
.  The cost was $59.00 US plus $6.00 for shipping.  I also picked up the
owners manual for an additional $10.00.  The manuals (service) for engine,
chassis and body and the second for electrical are ordered by year of
vehicle.  You can request the service publications order form (84-320-4737
(Rev. 8.98 00M)) to order by mail.  The order location is in Strongsville,
Ohio (USA) and is open 8:00 to 4:30 Eastern Standard Time..  People were
great and delivery was fast....Good Luck    Mike Whelan  Traverse City,
Michigan.

>Where can I find the mechanics manual.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:46:01 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: stumbling stealth

  Hate to sound repetitive, but this sounds suspiciously similar to the
'stumbles' I had until I replaced my plugs and wires.  My car runs better now
than it has in the 40k miles I've owned it, it's now at 91k miles.  Unless
they've already been checked, they're probably the cause.

good luck,
Jason


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:17:41 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Camber Plates

Has anyone installed Ground Control camber plates ????

Dave 93 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:49:04 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

> The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as a
>measurement of boost. 

Will I be able to rely on my Super AVC-R boost
readings (once I get it installed)?
Regards, ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:54:22 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...

** High Priority **

Here's one I've been thinking about...What is the advantage of a Mass
Airflow Sensor induction style versus a Volumetric system, as found
on RX-7's? I know when installing the HKS VPC you remove the MAS, and
the signal "lies" to the ECU, thereby creating a "speed density
system".  Is there some advantage for either system? It would seem to
me that a mass airflow sensor would give truer measurements of the air
that actually enters the intake tract...Any comment?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 15:59:57 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

Paul T. Golley wrote:

>
>
> Will I be able to rely on my Super AVC-R boost
> readings (once I get it installed)?

You sure will. You may (or may not) want to instal a dial boost gauge as well, but the
SAVC-R reads it as it should, and fine tunes the spikes out for you as well.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 19:10:47 -0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?

Well it looks like my car will be returned to me by next week so the works
it about to begin.  While doing the change over I will want to install a new
clutch.  I was wondering which one should I install and where is a good
place to purchase it from.

Many thanks,
Andy
93 VR4 soon to be 6 speed



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:22:10 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install? -Reply

** High Priority **

I installed the Centerforce dual friction clutch, and so far I'm very
happy with it (~5000miles). It grabs better than anyhting I've
driven, and about the only complaint I have about it is the chatter,
common with hi-po clutches....Actually, to be honest, I think it
chatters less than stock though! I haven't dumped the clutch at
obscene rpm's though, I'm reluctant to because I'm sure it wouldn't
be "nice" to my still stock driveline. It cost me $1100 installed,
and that may be my only other complaint....Expensive!!!

Good luck!

DJett
92 Pearl Stealth TT, HKS dual power flow intake, centerforce clutch,
soon to be ported intake manifold
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:02:16 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

Calculating boost and determining fuel requirements are two different
things.  The maps in the ECU are calibrated primarily with airflow (engine
load) against RPM (with other corrections thrown in) so there is no need for
it to know actual boost.  Boost is usually only relevant for MAP
(speed/density) systems and even then only to ultimately determine air
volume.  The MAS already measures airflow which does vary with boost
therefore no need for the ECU to know boost.

As long as those maps are correct, and I am sure they are conservatively
safe for a stock engine, then all is well.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> If the ECU is doing this calculation and it is that far off what does
> that say about how the ECU is controling the injector duration (mostly)
> and timing.  Is the inaccuracy dealth with elsewhere in the code??
>
> Regards,
> Lynn

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:02:18 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...

The speed/density vs. MAS/MAF debate reaches religous furor in some camps.

Speed/density relies primarily on absolute manifold pressure (MAP) plotted
against RPM.  Correcting with air temperature (ideally manifold air
temperature) you can calculate the amount of air with pretty reasonable
accuracy.  The problem with MAP systems is that in order to be very accurate
the ECU needs to know a lot about the engine -- VE curve, camshaft progfile,
injector size, fuel pressure and so on.  This is all possible and works
great just so long as none of that stuff ever changes.  If it does then the
ECU must be reprogrammed.

A mass airflow sensor actually measures the amount of air entering the
engine.  The latter is demonstrably more accurate and usually more sensitive
but can be more expensive and prone to certain types of failures depending
upon the type (hot wire, vortex style etc.).  The one exception to this is
the old flap style MAF which are notorisously crappy.  The vortex style as
used on the 3/S is extremely accurate.

Usually, ECUs with properly implemented MAS systems will tolerate all manor
of engine modifications with only the need to adjust for the change in
airflow.  This is why the TRE MASC is such a handy device.

Like the VPC, tools like the AFC and MASC also trick the ECU into seeing
different airflow values than what are actually measured by the MAS.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> ** High Priority **
>
> Here's one I've been thinking about...What is the advantage of a Mass
> Airflow Sensor induction style versus a Volumetric system, as found
> on RX-7's? I know when installing the HKS VPC you remove the MAS, and
> the signal "lies" to the ECU, thereby creating a "speed density
> system".  Is there some advantage for either system? It would seem to
> me that a mass airflow sensor would give truer measurements of the air
> that actually enters the intake tract...Any comment?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 19:07:21 -0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need Cat-Back Air Filter & New rims &Tires

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01BE7172.8D055560
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

1992 Dodge Stealth Rt Needs Your Imput only 17,000 org Miles on Her!

Cat Back Systems- Recomendations Please

K&N or Another brand - Recomendations Please

Home Depot Ram Air or Not-Recomendations Please

I Want to use Redline Syn Oil in engine and in manual transmission. I =
live in minnesota and have been told to use 10w30 in engine but is 10w40 =
okay. Also was told to use 2 Quarts mtls and 1 Quart mt90 in =
transmission.Also if i go with dual Exhaust my bumper has only single =
cut out. Can i by another bumper skirt for it. Thanks Everyone for your =
response.  Ken

- ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01BE7172.8D055560
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1992 Dodge Stealth Rt Needs Your =
Imput only=20
17,000 org Miles on Her!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Cat Back Systems- Recomendations=20
Please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>K&amp;N or Another brand - =
Recomendations=20
Please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Home Depot Ram Air or =
Not-Recomendations=20
Please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I Want to use Redline Syn Oil in =
engine and in=20
manual transmission. I live in minnesota and have been told to use 10w30 =
in=20
engine but is 10w40 okay. Also was told to use 2 Quarts mtls and 1 Quart =
mt90 in=20
transmission.Also if i go with dual Exhaust my bumper has only single =
cut out.=20
Can i by another bumper skirt for it. Thanks Everyone for your =
response.&nbsp;=20
Ken</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_006D_01BE7172.8D055560--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:18:30 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?

I heard nothing but good about the RPS clutches. The Carbon Claw seems to be not
good for a daily driver but the new Turbo Carbon offers a good pedal feeling
including great hold on the high rpm dumps. I probably will be soon in the need
to get a new clutch :) and I probably will go their way.
http://www.turboclutch.com/
Maybe someone else has more input on them ?

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 17:25:06 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

> If the ECU is doing this calculation and it is that far off what does
> that say about how the ECU is controling the injector duration (mostly)
> and timing.  Is the inaccuracy dealth with elsewhere in the code??

Interestingly, on the european 3000GT the boost meter (combo with water temp) is
really accurate but very, very slow. Also it only goes up to 0.7 bars and guess
what where it stays with 1.0 or more bars :)

Nobody really know how the ECU calculates boost but it is not used to determine
the appropriate cell in the fuel-map and the future ones that have to be taken.
The figures on the controllers do their job but when having a Blitz the size of
the digits is pretty small and as your job is watching the street (and traffic)
looking down the controller is not so good. Therefore a boost gauge is good to
"read" the boost level with a glimps as well as to determine a possible
boost-waveing.

Regards,
Roger,
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:12:44 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut

Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window whenever my SPI boost
guage hits 18psi.  Is there anyway to get rid of this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way?  I know that in my Talon that I had last year
a guuted Mass Air Sensor and a few other free be tricks eliminated this.
I know that is not a good idea on these cars but does anyone have any
other ideas?
Del

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:09:21 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: Are syncros the same in both 5 and 6 speed tranny's?

I have an appointment to get my 2nd gear and 2nd gear syncro replaced
over easter weekend.  One quick question, I have a '91 VR4 which is
obviously a 5 speed, and I'm not sure if the shop got the new parts from
a 5 or a 6 speed.  Does anyone know if the gears and the syncros are
different between the two, or are they the same?
Please someone have the right answer!
Thanks everyone,
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:26:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?

I have one sitting here that will be going into the car very soon.  I'll
post for anyone interested once I have some idea as to how it shakes out.
One issue though is that I do not know how representative this clutch will
be compared to the Carbon Claw or the newer Turbo Carbon clutch since mine
was supposedly a "one-off".  The only thing I know about its lineage is that
the material and disc was based on development for a 700 HP Supra MkIV
dragster.  RPS claimed that it performed flawlessly in that car but who
knows... *shrug*  RPS also claims it is streetable.  We'll see.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I heard nothing but good about the RPS clutches. The Carbon Claw
> seems to be not
> good for a daily driver but the new Turbo Carbon offers a good
> pedal feeling
> including great hold on the high rpm dumps. I probably will be
> soon in the need
> to get a new clutch :) and I probably will go their way.
> http://www.turboclutch.com/
> Maybe someone else has more input on them ?
>
> Regards,
> Roger

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 19:03:47 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install? -Reply

Through my clutch experiences with All Wheel Drive cars, Talon, Eclipse,
3000GT, I would personally stay away from Centerforce Dual Friction
clutches.  I STRONGLY suggest using A.C.T. clutches.  They can take a
serious beating and will still grab hard.I had one in my high 12 second
all wheel drive Talon last summer and because of massive launches smoked
it a couple of times.  I'd let it sit overnight and the next day it would
grab just as good if not better.  My friend has a RPS Turbo Clutch in his
'93 VR-4 which he has to replace every 7 to 9 months.  Not sure about
Clutchmasters except for rumors of killin driveline parts and the fact
that they cost a lot.  I ordered my ACT 2740lb. pressure plate (stock is
2300lbs.) and street disk yesterday for $450.00.
I'll give a full report after I get my '91 VR-4 into a race shop on April
2nd for the install and they are also going to be replacing my 2nd gear
syncro and 2nd gear.
Hope this helps a little,
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:06:33 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install? -Reply -Reply

** High Priority **

So, what's so bad about Centerforce clutches?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 18:05:51 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut

Del,

Please list your mods as I do not have them in my small brain (too much comp
stuff, hehe).

> Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window whenever my SPI boost
> guage hits 18psi.

I'm sure you know why you're running into fuel cut and that this hurts your
engine. Also for sure you're getting retarded timing before the cut and your ECU
falls back to the low-octane gas map that causes cut even earlier !

We have some cars that show timing retard right after 14.2psi caused by the ECU
that senses knock, even witch a still rich mixture !. You can prevent this by
giving the engine more fuel to cool down the combustion chamber, e.g. with an
AFC. Fuel cut normally appears around 1.25bars on cars without fuel mods but
using an AFC and increasing the fuel amount causes earlier fuel cut. This
because the stock fuel system is at it's end even at 1.05bars. The IDC on Jim's
car showed more than 90% on the dyno around 1.0bars :) Our ECU then first closes
the wastegate-solenoid valve thinking the wastegates will then open for sure.
When this doesn't cure the situation, it retards the timing and finally
activates fuel cut if nothing helps. If this happens some times the ECU jumps
onto the low-octane fuel map and also retards the timing for the first 20
seconds (not really sure) and it doesn't allow you to go over 3200rpm.

> Is there anyway to get rid of this or is ECU reprogramming the only way?

Reprogramming the ECU means tweaking the fuel-map and changing the limiter.
That's it ! So the only solution to drive your car save in different ambient
temps with more than say 15psi is to change the fuel system and other things to
reduce the combustion chamber temperature. Unfortunately, I do have some
experience with this and they can be seen on :
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

Just go to the "problems" page :(

Happy boosting,
Roger,
93'3000GT TT saw 18-19psi .. saw the rebuild afterwards
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 21:11:03 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?

Roger et.al.,
We have the RPS turbo clutch carbon on Matt's VR4. It is fantastic. Easy to
drive and holds like crazy.  We also sell the RPS line so email privately or
call 301 824 3337 for our usual low prices.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, March 18, 1999 8:19 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question on what clutch to install?


>I heard nothing but good about the RPS clutches. The Carbon Claw seems to
be not
>good for a daily driver but the new Turbo Carbon offers a good pedal
feeling
>including great hold on the high rpm dumps. I probably will be soon in the
need
>to get a new clutch :) and I probably will go their way.
>http://www.turboclutch.com/
>Maybe someone else has more input on them ?
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 21:44:09 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: Team3S: Anybody Find anything out about the auto Tranny?

Has anybody been able to find out what type of automatic transmission was
used in those very limited vr-4's and Stealths?  Could it be the same as in
the SL's??? just curious
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 21:47:36 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need Cat-Back Air Filter & New rims &Tires

Can somebody describe the "Home Depot Ram Air"  talked about here?
Thanks,
Lynn #0232

Ken Taft wrote:
> Home Depot Ram Air or Not-Recomendations Please
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 23:28:12 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Anybody Find anything out about the auto Tranny?

What???  Does anybody know anybody who has a auto vr4/tt???  Thats pretty
intresting.  I wonder how they perform,


Larry A,


94 3000gt SL

#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 20:43:05 +1100
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: Re: Team3S: =?us-ascii?Q?RE=3A_Team3S=3A_Results=3A__getting_rid_of_the_in?= =?us-ascii?Q?famous_ticking_under_the_valve_cov=09er?=

As a matter on interest, I thought I had solved my lash adjuster noise
problem by using Mobil-1 synthetic after trying most other cures apart
from replacement on lash adjusters. There has been no noise from the
lash adjusters for the last 6 weeks since the Mobil-1 went in. Now in
the last couple of days I've noticed that old ticking noise starting
again once the car gets warm, so it looks like its time to replace the
offending parts.
Regards
Andrew
Australia

Steven Clarke wrote:
>
> You have either got air in your lifters or (more probably) bad lifters.
>
> Steve Clarke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From:   Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> Sent:   Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
> To:     'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'
> Subject:        Team3S: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov       er
>
> Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary:  it's not gone.
>
> The symptoms:
> *       Ticking sound coming from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
> back bank).
> *       Quiet (almost not noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
> is warm.
> *       Doesn't go away when revving the engine slightly.
> *       Sound like
> http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav  BTW thanks to
> Rob for putting that on the web!
>
> Things I've tried:
> *       10W30 dino oil
> *       0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> *       5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> *       10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
> *       Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
> *       OEM filters
> *       K&N Oil Filter (currently)
> *       Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
> *       Arty's cleaning method (posted on
> http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
> *       Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
> replace - NA car)
> *       Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt with
> filter replace - NA car)
> *       Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and back down several times.
> *       Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify that oil is
> getting to the cams and valves.  Lots o' oil being slung around.  Looks ok
> upon visual inspection.
> *       Beating forehead repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
> the Mitsu diamond onto my forehead.  Perhaps will try this when engine is
> hot :)
>
> Things I haven't tried (yet):
> *       Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on the dipstick. (How much
> should I drain out if it's currently sitting at the top mark on the
> dipsitck???
> *       Anything others might suggest
> *       Talking to the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I do
> this).
>
> Possible Causes I Know of:
> *       Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
> *       Bad lash adjuster(s)
> *       Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
> *       Bad valve(s)
> *       Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve cover ;)
>
> So, anyone have any other suggestions?  Possible causes of the problem?
> Ways to solve the problem?  Is it time to go to the dealer?  Help?
>
> TIA
> --Erik
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
> ------                                             ----------
> "Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know me.
>  And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of the
>  Holy Spirit.  Richard probably will never hear a voice from
>  a whirlwind that drowns out all questions.  He will likely
>  never get a personal glimpse of God in this life.  He will
>  only see me."    --Philip Yancey     Disappointment With God
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:20:04 -0500
From: Leland Gray <grayda@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes

I'm having some trouble with the front brakes on my 93 Stealth ES.
Here's what's happening:  I start to slow down and turn the steering
wheel at the same time (usually when I'm going into a parking spot).
All of a sudden, the brake pedal  starts vibrating up an down violently,
all the while making this awful sounding grinding noises that are coming
from the area of the front brakes. Also, when this happens, the car car
doesn't slow down and stop like it's supposed to.  It takes a lot longer
as a result of the problem.   It also happens whenever I slide, like on
ice and snow.  If I am coming to a stop and I step on the brakes and the
car slides, the brakes will do the same thing.  Please help.  I think
there is a serious problem.  I already checked, and there was a recall
on the brake hoses (whatrever those are), but that was already fixed by
the previous owner..

Thanks,

Leland
93 Dodge Stealth ES

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:44:25 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes

This is normal for vehicles with ABS. The vibration you are feeling is the
ABS pump doing it's job to prevent the wheels from locking up. The
vibration and noise is very unsettling, I personally can't stand ABS.
Unfortunately you will either have to live with it, or take it easy braking
on wet or slick roads. If you are experiencing this on dry roads, during
light braking, you have a problem that you will have to have checked out at
the dealer. Before spending major bucks, contact me, i have some ABS parts
for sale. However, if the "ABS" light is not coming on, you just need to
take it easy.....

Wayne


At 08:20 AM 3/19/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm having some trouble with the front brakes on my 93 Stealth ES.
>Here's what's happening:  I start to slow down and turn the steering
>wheel at the same time (usually when I'm going into a parking spot).
>All of a sudden, the brake pedal  starts vibrating up an down violently,
>all the while making this awful sounding grinding noises that are coming
>from the area of the front brakes. Also, when this happens, the car car
>doesn't slow down and stop like it's supposed to.  It takes a lot longer
>as a result of the problem.   It also happens whenever I slide, like on
>ice and snow.  If I am coming to a stop and I step on the brakes and the
>car slides, the brakes will do the same thing.  Please help.  I think
>there is a serious problem.  I already checked, and there was a recall
>on the brake hoses (whatrever those are), but that was already fixed by
>the previous owner..
>
>Thanks,
>
>Leland
>93 Dodge Stealth ES
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:13:32 -0500
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE71EF.4363F7E0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

If you have a '91-'93 a vpc will solve it. '94 and up you probably have to reprogram the ecu.

- ----------
From: Del A Kolasinski[SMTP:pearlvr42c@juno.com]
Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 7:12 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Eliminating Fuel Cut

Okay, so I'm sick of flying through my front window whenever my SPI boost
guage hits 18psi.  Is there anyway to get rid of this or is ECU
reprogramming the only way?  I know that in my Talon that I had last year
a guuted Mass Air Sensor and a few other free be tricks eliminated this.
I know that is not a good idea on these cars but does anyone have any
other ideas?
Del

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE71EF.4363F7E0
Content-Type: application/ms-tnef
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE71EF.4363F7E0--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 06:52:25 PST
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...

Has anyone heard anything new about the TRE MASC?  When is it suppose to
be back on the market?

Chris


>airflow.  This is why the TRE MASC is such a handy device.
>
>Like the VPC, tools like the AFC and MASC also trick the ECU into
seeing
>different airflow values than what are actually measured by the MAS.
>
>
>Barry
>

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 07:14:59 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Team3S: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov er

Hey Andrew;

I don't remember if you flushed or not?? It will make a difference and clean out the baked oil. The oil
bakes (which is why people install Turbo timers) but an idle down period before shutdown really
discourages this from occurring...and hence forstalls ticking. A simple change to Mobil 1 does help, but
the flush prior to it really is a quantum leap.

Best

Darc

Andrew Clark wrote:

> As a matter on interest, I thought I had solved my lash adjuster noise
> problem by using Mobil-1 synthetic after trying most other cures apart
> from replacement on lash adjusters. There has been no noise from the
> lash adjusters for the last 6 weeks since the Mobil-1 went in. Now in
> the last couple of days I've noticed that old ticking noise starting
> again once the car gets warm, so it looks like its time to replace the
> offending parts.
> Regards
> Andrew
> Australia
>
> Steven Clarke wrote:
> >
> > You have either got air in your lifters or (more probably) bad lifters.
> >
> > Steve Clarke
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:   Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
> > Sent:   Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
> > To:     'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'
> > Subject:        Team3S: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov       er
> >
> > Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary:  it's not gone.
> >
> > The symptoms:
> > *       Ticking sound coming from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
> > back bank).
> > *       Quiet (almost not noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
> > is warm.
> > *       Doesn't go away when revving the engine slightly.
> > *       Sound like
> > http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav  BTW thanks to
> > Rob for putting that on the web!
> >
> > Things I've tried:
> > *       10W30 dino oil
> > *       0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> > *       5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> > *       10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
> > *       Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
> > *       OEM filters
> > *       K&N Oil Filter (currently)
> > *       Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
> > *       Arty's cleaning method (posted on
> > http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
> > *       Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
> > replace - NA car)
> > *       Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt with
> > filter replace - NA car)
> > *       Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and back down several times.
> > *       Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify that oil is
> > getting to the cams and valves.  Lots o' oil being slung around.  Looks ok
> > upon visual inspection.
> > *       Beating forehead repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
> > the Mitsu diamond onto my forehead.  Perhaps will try this when engine is
> > hot :)
> >
> > Things I haven't tried (yet):
> > *       Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on the dipstick. (How much
> > should I drain out if it's currently sitting at the top mark on the
> > dipsitck???
> > *       Anything others might suggest
> > *       Talking to the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I do
> > this).
> >
> > Possible Causes I Know of:
> > *       Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
> > *       Bad lash adjuster(s)
> > *       Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
> > *       Bad valve(s)
> > *       Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve cover ;)
> >
> > So, anyone have any other suggestions?  Possible causes of the problem?
> > Ways to solve the problem?  Is it time to go to the dealer?  Help?
> >
> > TIA
> > --Erik
> >
> > ------                                             ----------
> > Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> > '95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
> > ------                                             ----------
> > "Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know me.
> >  And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of the
> >  Holy Spirit.  Richard probably will never hear a voice from
> >  a whirlwind that drowns out all questions.  He will likely
> >  never get a personal glimpse of God in this life.  He will
> >  only see me."    --Philip Yancey     Disappointment With God
> > -------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > *
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 08:24:39 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Volume vs Mass Air Flow...

Likely never.  The inventor/designer of the MASC has taken a position at a
performance electronics company.

Did anyone talked with the company at this link?  http://www.splitsec.com

I've posted it twice now but haven't heard any feedback.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Has anyone heard anything new about the TRE MASC?  When is it suppose to
> be back on the market?
>
> Chris

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 10:28:01 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes

On Fri, 19 Mar 1999, Wayne wrote:

> This is normal for vehicles with ABS. The vibration you are feeling is
> the ABS pump doing it's job to prevent the wheels from locking up. The

I'm not sure I completely agree.  What he's describing is much more severe
than anything I've ever experienced on other ABS-equipped vehicles.  (My
93 Stealth ES doesn't have ABS, so I'm not familiar with the setup Mitsu
installed.)  Most functioning ABS I've driven with will vibrate the pedal
slightly, and you might hear a whirring noise (like very muted machine-gun
fire).  But violent pedal motion and huge clunking noise indicate a
problem somewhere.

At risk of starting a huge debate, I have to speak up in support of ABS
for *most* "real world" driving situtations. If you're racing, then you've
probably had lots of training and/or experience in all types of braking
procedures: in those situations, ABS would be a hinderance.  However, if
you're driving along in southern Indiana, and the bridge is covered with
black ice, ABS is a life saver!  (Personal experience in my 94 Jimmy, when
ABS helped me steer around a non-ABS vehicle which was spinning out.)

My recommendation to the original complaint is to go test drive a new
ABS-equipped 3000GT SL, and try to duplicate the conditions.  See how the
noise and pedal vibration compares to yours.  That would help indicate if
your ABS is functioning properly.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 16:37:23 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Paint and cooling question

Hello everyone...

I have two questions..

my 92 Stealth is white pearl, but the pop-up headlights are black...and I do
not like this.
Given that my car will be at the body shop for a paint job (small cosmetic
problems), I'm thinking about having the black metal plates above the
headlamps repainted with the same color as the body. I downloaded pictures
of the same car, and electronically changed the color, and I kinda like the
result....any comments ??

Even if it's still cold here (was snowing this morning....sorry Roger, bad
news, Ca weather was better) I noticed that the underhood temperature is
HIGH....
I'm wondering if there's a way to change / transform these
cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on the bonnet ?...would be a good
way to reduce engine temperature (thus increasing HP....), and given that
these are hold on the bonned via bolts...should be a bolt on (of course, pun
intended )upgrade.

Best regards

Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 07:40:04 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: cooling question

- -----Original Message-----
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch [mailto:lehir@genesiscom.ch]
Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 7:37 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
<snip>
I'm wondering if there's a way to change / transform these
cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on the bonnet ?...would be a good
way to reduce engine temperature (thus increasing HP....), and given that
these are hold on the bonned via bolts...should be a bolt on (of course, pun
intended )upgrade.

Best regards

Henri
=======================
Henri...

Arty has some Bozz Speed scoops on his 1st gen, they look great. Beware,
however, they are extraction scoops, not induction. Still a good way to
release some of the heat. I wish the 2nd gens had the same strut tower
covers.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 11:09:40 -0500
From: "Michael D. Romano" <mdr-nhl@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Paint and cooling question

Personally, I agree with you on the headlight covers. I think they look
better being the same color as the rest of the body.

- -Mike
'93 Stealth ES


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Genesiscon
> Lehir
> Sent: Friday, March 19, 1999 10:37 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Paint and cooling question
>
>
> Hello everyone...
>
> I have two questions..
>
> my 92 Stealth is white pearl, but the pop-up headlights are
> black...and I do
> not like this.
> Given that my car will be at the body shop for a paint job (small cosmetic
> problems), I'm thinking about having the black metal plates above the
> headlamps repainted with the same color as the body. I downloaded pictures
> of the same car, and electronically changed the color, and I
> kinda like the
> result....any comments ??
>
> Even if it's still cold here (was snowing this morning....sorry Roger, bad
> news, Ca weather was better) I noticed that the underhood temperature is
> HIGH....
> I'm wondering if there's a way to change / transform these
> cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on the bonnet ?...would
> be a good
> way to reduce engine temperature (thus increasing HP....), and given that
> these are hold on the bonned via bolts...should be a bolt on (of
> course, pun
> intended )upgrade.
>
> Best regards
>
> Henri
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:12:26 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes

My advise in this situation is to take it to the dealer or Brake Shop ASAP. It is a moot
point to debate what it might be if we read about you in the obits. How are the pads" Is
one of them loose? It's happened before believe it or not. The metal on metal noise is
NOT GOOD. Get it looked at rather then seeking advise. Often  brake shops do free
inspections and give you a free estimate.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 09:21:43 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: cooling question

Hi Henri;

As Chris noted, Bozz  makes (pricey) extraction scoops (heat extraction isn't a bad
idea), and at least one member, Todd Shelton, has forward facing ram type scoops where
these shock tower "blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have it handy)...are you
out here Todd?

Best

Darc


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 12:31:09 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: cooling question

Todd's website:
http://www.brightok.net/~tds/stealth1.html

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Hi Henri;
>
> idea), and at least one member, Todd Shelton, has forward facing ram
> type scoops where
> these shock tower "blisters" bolt on. Visit his homepage (don't have
> it handy)...are you
> out here Todd?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Mar 1999 13:28:39 +0000
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <loco3kgt@widomaker.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Paint and cooling question

> I'm wondering if there's a way to change / transform these
> cosmetic-non-functional air scoop we have on the bonnet ?

Email Henry Yam of RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net> and ask
about BOZZ Speed's Bonnet scoops. They look like stock but have vents in
the rear of the scoops to allow for heat to escape. Look pretty damn
sweet too.

- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #128
****************************

For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm