--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #127
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Thursday, March 18 1999         Volume 01 : Number 127




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 10:59:11 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts

Interesting.

Now I have a new theory: My 275's are mounted on 9" wheels, not 8.5" wheels
like stock. So my tread width will be slightly wider. (0.5" = 13 mm or so,
wider wheels pull the tires out a bit). I would swear that my tires would
rub the spring perch with 46mm offset on my wheels. And I din't think that
0.5" wheel width would make much of a difference, but then again we're
talking in terms of individual millimeters of clearance here.

On the other hand, it could be a difference between the '91-93 and '94+
cars. If the rotors are different thicknesses (quite possible, since the
brakes were revised), or the half-shafts are different lengths (which I
believe is the case anyways, because of the switch to the 6-spd), the
mounting surfaces for the wheels could be in a slightly different position
on the two different cars. Which would have the effect of making a tiny
difference in the offset of the tire relative to the spring perch.

Sorry for taking waayyy to long to read through my list email. :-)

   -Ed


- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [mailto:middaugh@omega.gat.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 1:48 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; stealth@starnet.net;
stealth@dragnet.com
Subject: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts



Sorry I'm violating the one topic per post rule, but they are related
enough.

Summary:  Firehawk 275/40/17 will not rub struts on stock 17x8.5 46mm
offset rims, even with 1" lowering with Eibach springs.  Slight rubbing
will occur on the inner splash guard at full wheel lock though.

The Lowdown:  Last month I needed to replace the tires on my '91 VR4
with stock 46mm offset rims.  I solicited information from all lists
about max tire sizes on stock rims.  A couple of posts/replies stood
out.  Shawn Dewey replied that he was running Firestone Firehawk SZ50
275/40/17 on stock rims on his '93 VR4, and Bob Fontana posted that he
has Goodyear Eagle GSC in the same size on his stock '93 VR4 rims.
Based on their success, I got Firehawk 275/40/17 installed at a local
dealer (prices almost as good as Tire Rack's).  I had them install one
tire on the front right first and they drove around in fast circles in
their parking lot.  When they took the tire off, we noticed the slight
rubbing on the inner splash guard that Bob mentioned, as well as very
slight rubbing on the strut's spring perch.  I had them mount all 4.  I
heard no rubbing and I don't drive in tight circles at full wheel lock (
I normally go to lock and back off a little, still get around tight
corners).

Two weeks ago, I replaced my struts since I suspected that they were the
cause of some suspension clunking I was getting over sharp bumps.  They
had 89,000 miles on them!  Way overdue!  While I was there, I decided to
replace the springs with Eibach's Pro-Kit.  When I removed the old
struts, I didn't notice any more rubbing on the spring perches, and no
visible wear on the tires either.  With the new springs and the car
lowered an inch, the camber is a little too negative on all corners.  I
figured I'd leave the extra negative camber for my visit to the track,
and get an alignment after.

Last Saturday I went to Holtville for an uncompetetive Track Time
event.  Man was that a blast!  (I used up my fairly new Stillen Metal
Matrix brake pads in half a day).  I wanted to check the tire clearance
after the most aggressive driving so I pulled off the front tires.
There was absolutely no rubbing on the new struts!  Also, when I get it
aligned to spec, removing the excess negative camber will pull the tire
further away from the strut.

Conclusion:  Perhaps the new strut is different with the perch in a
slightly different location, or perhaps the old perch bent closer to the
tire after so many miles.  Also, a small spring drop should be an
advantage since removing the added camber will move the top of the tire
away from the strut (I'll report after I have an alignment performed).

Ed Fein had solicited info from folks running 275's on stock rims, so
add me to the list!
1. Year, make and model of car '91 VR4
2. Brand and model of tire Firestone Firehawk SZ50, 275/40/17
3. Rubbing, if any, and severity No rubbing on outer
fenderwell, no
rubbing on new struts.  Slight rubbing on inner splashguard
4. Misc. info Eibach Pro-Kit 1" lowering springs

Good luck,
Ken
- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 10:43:14 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts

Yes, the swept area of the rotor is thicker and yes the rotor is larger.
This will affect the wheel width 0.000 inches. (read will not affect)

The Front axles are the exact same length and size on the 5/6 speed.

The brakes will not affect the width needed on the wheel, only the offset.
On putting large tires on a car, remember that the tire tends to roll on a
wheel if the wheel is too narrow.  This may cause clearance problems with
the strut during a hard corner and could cause the wheel to lock
momentarily.

> Brad
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Fein, Edward
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:59 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts


On the other hand, it could be a difference between the '91-93 and '94+
cars. If the rotors are different thicknesses (quite possible, since the
brakes were revised), or the half-shafts are different lengths (which I
believe is the case anyways, because of the switch to the 6-spd), the
mounting surfaces for the wheels could be in a slightly different position
on the two different cars. Which would have the effect of making a tiny
difference in the offset of the tire relative to the spring perch.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:06:43 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control

Will the folks that just put these in recently contact me. I wish to compare
notes
and scribbles ( on the instruction sheets) .  I also got the camber plates :)
Thanks in advance.  Dave 93 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:51:52 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Team3S: AWD dynamometer

In a message dated 3/17/99 9:41:26 AM, jefyoung@ix.netcom.com wrote:

<<Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD will be installing an AWD dyno

in the next couple of weeks.  Good news for all of you people in that area.



Jeffrey

92 RT/Turbo

www.omega-sw.com/stealth



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

>>

In a message dated 3/17/99 9:41:08 AM, you wrote:

<<Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD will be installing an AWD dyno

in the next couple of weeks.  Good news for all of you people in that area.



Jeffrey

92 RT/Turbo

www.omega-sw.com/stealth




>>

Actually Jeffrey, you are unfortunately incorrect. Extreme will be installing
a 2WD Dyno in about 3 weeks. They will be able to dyno AWD's but with a lot of
mods to the cars. For the DSM's they will have to have a welded viscus
cupling, and will have to pull their transfer cases off. (No real big deal for
the full out race AWD's with the welded front diffs) And for the stealths and
3000's which are AWD, you will have to install a FWD tranny and then remove
the transfer cases... IT's going to be a pain in the ass to do all of this,
but for those people with AWD who are serious about dynoing their cars.
Extreme will be sure to hook them up!

Catch you later,
- -"The Kid" Adam Weltz
1996 3000 GT VR-4
11.25 @ 125.43mph!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:02:47 PST
From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play

Looking for some feedback...
1st gen VR4 getting long in the tooth.
I experiencing a growing amount of movement in the shift lever when
in gear under load and off load.  There seemed to always be a few mm
movement since new when on and off the gas but within the last few weeks
the travel has grown significantly.
Along with this I can feel a sight hesitation in the driveline to the
rear wheels and a dull thud noise as it loads.
Best case scenario I am hoping this will go away with a clutch
replacement needed soon.  Worst case POS tranny or transfer probs.
Any ideas much appreciated...
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:19:06 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer

This is the official email from Extreme and not only a statement from Jeffrey !

Regards,
Roger

- --------------

Greetings!

Extreme Motorsports' web pages have been updated as of March 16,
1999.  Here's what's new this time around:

  A quick update with some BIG news at Extreme.  We've finally gotten
  approval from the landlord, so we'll be installing a brand spankin' new
  1200 HP, 200 MPH Dynojet dynamometer in the shop in a few weeks. The dyno
  will let us test FWD and AWD cars right on site and dial-in our monster
  motors before hitting the track.

  With all of the things we have in store for 1999, we're just hoping the
  1200 HP limit will be enough!

Extreme's web pages are located at:

  http://www.extrememotorsports.com/

....
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:56 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play

Replace your motor mounts; doing this will cure your problems.

> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Michael Reiss
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 2:03 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play

Looking for some feedback...
1st gen VR4 getting long in the tooth.
I experiencing a growing amount of movement in the shift lever when
in gear under load and off load.  There seemed to always be a few mm
movement since new when on and off the gas but within the last few weeks
the travel has grown significantly.
Along with this I can feel a sight hesitation in the driveline to the
rear wheels and a dull thud noise as it loads.
Best case scenario I am hoping this will go away with a clutch
replacement needed soon.  Worst case POS tranny or transfer probs.
Any ideas much appreciated...
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 15:33:53 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer

In a message dated 3/17/99 3:18:32 PM, robby@swissonline.ch wrote:

<<This is the official email from Extreme and not only a statement from
Jeffrey !

Regards,
Roger
>>

Look, I know for a fact they are only getting a 2WD Dyno. They sent an e-mail
out, on there website saying they will be ABLE to dyno AWD cars. NOT that they
are getting an AWD dyno. If you don't believe me call them for yourself.
301-776-2903. I am good friends with extreme and no more about it then
Jeffrey.

Adam Weltz
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:58:31 PST
From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4 Shifter/driveline play

Never would have guessed this in a million years..are you serious?
You sound so sure this will work.

>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
>Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:56 -0600
>
>Replace your motor mounts; doing this will cure your problems.
>
>> Brad
>Member of ESSC since 1999>
>> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:09:44 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: new vendor

Received this on the Dragnet list.  Looks like another source for stock
parts beside Tallahassee Mitsu.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth


>
>
> My name is Bill Hall with Norco Mitsubishi in Norco California, and I just
>want to say Hi and let you know if you need any factory mitsubishi parts I
>give 20% off and ship anywhere in the U.S. I know you already have  other
>dealers you buy from but it doesn't hurt to have more people on your side.
>So
>if I can do anything for you let me know.
>
>e-mail address.        mitsparts@pe.net
>
> or check out our web site @  www.norcomits.com
>
>Thanks Bill.
>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:10:26 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov er

Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary:  it's not gone.

The symptoms:
* Ticking sound coming from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
back bank). 
* Quiet (almost not noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
is warm.
* Doesn't go away when revving the engine slightly.
* Sound like
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav  BTW thanks to
Rob for putting that on the web!

Things I've tried:
* 10W30 dino oil
* 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
* Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
* OEM filters
* K&N Oil Filter (currently)
* Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
* Arty's cleaning method (posted on
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
* Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
replace - NA car)
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt with
filter replace - NA car)
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and back down several times.
* Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify that oil is
getting to the cams and valves.  Lots o' oil being slung around.  Looks ok
upon visual inspection.
* Beating forehead repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
the Mitsu diamond onto my forehead.  Perhaps will try this when engine is
hot :)

Things I haven't tried (yet):
* Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on the dipstick. (How much
should I drain out if it's currently sitting at the top mark on the
dipsitck???
* Anything others might suggest
* Talking to the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I do
this).

Possible Causes I Know of:
* Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
* Bad lash adjuster(s)
* Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
* Bad valve(s)
* Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve cover ;)

So, anyone have any other suggestions?  Possible causes of the problem?
Ways to solve the problem?  Is it time to go to the dealer?  Help?

TIA
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
- ------                                             ----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know me.
 And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of the
 Holy Spirit.  Richard probably will never hear a voice from
 a whirlwind that drowns out all questions.  He will likely
 never get a personal glimpse of God in this life.  He will
 only see me."    --Philip Yancey     Disappointment With God
- -------------------------------------------------------------

*
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:32:41 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play

I had exactly the same problem with my 94 VR4 at 58,000 miles.  It turned
out to be a collapsing engine mount (driver's side).  Mitsu put in a new
one (under warrenty) and the shifter movement, vibration and clunking went
away.  The mechanic said that this is a fairly common problem.

Steve Clarke

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:22:37 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 Shifter/driveline play

Hey Michael;

Yep he's certain... and by now you've probably had a kazillion other posts to confirm
this advise.  The movement you're getting is from engine torque which is not battened
down like it should be due to the broken/split mount. It's a cheap fix rather than the
expensive one you feared.

Best

Darc

Michael Reiss wrote:

> Never would have guessed this in a million years..are you serious?
> You sound so sure this will work.
>
> >From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
> >Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> >To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> >Subject: RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
> >Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:56 -0600
> >
> >Replace your motor mounts; doing this will cure your problems.
> >
> >> Brad
> >Member of ESSC since 1999>
> >> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> >> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:27:05 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov er

Erik;

Have you tried an engine flush product like GUNK yet?? It did it for me...the ticking
was gone!  Mikael in Sweden used another similar German product, and it did the trick
for him. Give it a try if you have not yet and then use Mobil 1, which you apparently
are. If this fails, you need adjustment or replacement.

Best

Darc



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:34:31 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject: Team3S: =?us-ascii?Q?RE=3A_Team3S=3A_Results=3A__getting_rid_of_the_in?= =?us-ascii?Q?famous_ticking_under_the_valve_cov=09er?=

You have either got air in your lifters or (more probably) bad lifters.

Steve Clarke

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
To: 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov er

Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary:  it's not gone.

The symptoms:
* Ticking sound coming from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
back bank). 
* Quiet (almost not noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
is warm.
* Doesn't go away when revving the engine slightly.
* Sound like
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav  BTW thanks to
Rob for putting that on the web!

Things I've tried:
* 10W30 dino oil
* 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
* Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's bad)
* OEM filters
* K&N Oil Filter (currently)
* Marvel Mystery oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
* Arty's cleaning method (posted on
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
* Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
replace - NA car)
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt with
filter replace - NA car)
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and back down several times.
* Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify that oil is
getting to the cams and valves.  Lots o' oil being slung around.  Looks ok
upon visual inspection.
* Beating forehead repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
the Mitsu diamond onto my forehead.  Perhaps will try this when engine is
hot :)

Things I haven't tried (yet):
* Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on the dipstick. (How much
should I drain out if it's currently sitting at the top mark on the
dipsitck???
* Anything others might suggest
* Talking to the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I do
this).

Possible Causes I Know of:
* Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
* Bad lash adjuster(s)
* Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
* Bad valve(s)
* Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve cover ;)

So, anyone have any other suggestions?  Possible causes of the problem?
Ways to solve the problem?  Is it time to go to the dealer?  Help?

TIA
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
- ------                                             ----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know me.
 And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of the
 Holy Spirit.  Richard probably will never hear a voice from
 a whirlwind that drowns out all questions.  He will likely
 never get a personal glimpse of God in this life.  He will
 only see me."    --Philip Yancey     Disappointment With God
- -------------------------------------------------------------

*
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:47:21 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Results:  getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cover

> So, anyone have any other suggestions? 

How about Gunk Engine Flush followed by Mobil 1 20/50 wieght (or is it
15/50?)

- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 16:19:04 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cover

> Things I've tried:
> * 10W30 dino oil
> * 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> * 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> * 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)

Ouch, that .wav file sounds even worse than my lifters sounded!  The only
thing that made it go away in my '94 VR4 was to switch to Mobil-1 20W50
synthetic.  Higher viscosities seemed to help keep the oil in the lifters.
If the lifters have junk in them (dirt, metal particles, etc.) then the grit
can hold open the little valve in there and the cam will pump the oil out of
the lifter when it gets compressed.  The higher viscosity oil probably
doesn't get forced out as easily, or is thick enough to wash the grit
through the lifter.  I'm just speculating, but that's what took care of it
on my car.

- -Matt
Previous '94 3000GT-VR4
'93 Eclipse GSX

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:15:36 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?

IF the bottom of the fender is peeling I think it's due to the rubbing against
the ground. If you scrap the bottom it's gonna shift the grill and therefore
crack the paint,


Larry A.

94 3000gt Sl

3si #224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:25:20 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:_Team3S:_Results:__getting_rid_of_the_infamous_ticking_under_t...

When I start my car on a real cold day my lifters are LOUD for 2 second then
the sound disappears.  I really hate the sound.  It has happened 3 times since
I've owned the car.  Ant suggestions?

thanks,

Larry A

94 3000gt SL

#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:52 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise

- -----Original Message-----
From: CHiLER555@aol.com [mailto:CHiLER555@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 2:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE:_Team3S:_Results:__getting_rid_of_the_infamous_ticking_under_t...

When I start my car on a real cold day my lifters are LOUD for 2 second then
the sound disappears.  I really hate the sound.  It has happened 3 times
since
I've owned the car.  Ant suggestions?

thanks, Larry A

94 3000gt SL
=================================
Larry...

Use a lighter weight oil. Cold increases the viscosity of your oil. The
sound you describe may not be the lifters, but the valves and valve guides.
Those 2 to 3 seconds without oil in the top end are VERY hard on the engine.
Pre-oilers are the ultimate in preventative maintenance, but I haven't heard
of anyone on the list that's gone that far.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 18:45:35 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: More auto tranny problems

Anybody ever have this happen? My auto tranny is locked in 3rd gear. No
matter what gear I put it in to (low,2nd, or drive) it is in 3rd and
won't shift. In reverse, it clunks into first and backs up fine , and
then clunks back into drive. I will never buy an auto tranny again!! How
feasable is an auto to 5-speed conversion? is the tranny controlled by
the ECU?

Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:09:43 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise

I use 5w30 castrol on my car and change it every 2,000 miles.  Is it worth me
to go syntethic?

thanks,

Larry A.

94 3000gt SL     

<<Use a lighter weight oil. Cold increases the viscosity of your oil. The
sound you describe may not be the lifters, but the valves and valve guides.
Those 2 to 3 seconds without oil in the top end are VERY hard on the engine.
Pre-oilers are the ultimate in preventative maintenance, but I haven't heard
of anyone on the list that's gone that far.>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:15:21 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: custom exhaust

I need some help on deciding if I should go with a custom exhaust or go borla.
I've been going back and forth with the idea for a month now but I'm still
stumped,

thanks,

Larry A

94 3000gt SL

#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 16:41:36 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise

You wrote;



> I use 5w30 castrol on my car and change it every 2,000 miles.  Is it worth me
> to go syntethic?
>

Not really, unless you want to have the best for peace of mind. You change with
admirable frequency so it's not really necessary. Synthetic oil would be advantageous if
you were running turbos, as fossil lubriacants do not take the high heat  as well (cook
and break down) which tubo equipped cars seem to  generate.. In your case I cann't see a
great advantage to changing. However, if cold is a real problem there, some sort of
snake oil additive that keeps the metal coated with a thin lubricant might be of
advantageous during prolonged cold snaps. I cann't advise any and hate to suggest it,
but cold (as in frigid) grinding starts is not good. Once the weather changes and you do
your next change, use a flush to get it out.

Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:07:29 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: custom exhaust

- -----Original Message-----
From: CHiLER555@aol.com [mailto:CHiLER555@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 4:15 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: custom exhaust

I need some help on deciding if I should go with a custom exhaust or go
borla.
I've been going back and forth with the idea for a month now but I'm still
stumped,

thanks,

Larry A

94 3000gt SL
===============================
Larry...

The choice is really yours. Here's some pros & cons...

Borla:

Pros...already fabricated, ready to bolt on. Trusted name. High quality
materials. Good mandrel bends (no kinks).
Cons...cost. Volume (Borla is loud).

Custom:

Pros...can be much less expensive, particularly if you don't use stainless
steel. You can have the sound you want, by choosing the mufflers you want.
Get the look you want, choose your own tips.
Cons...may not fit as well, potential for rattles and vibration.

I bought a GReddy catback, for the pre-fabricated reason. Later I added the
ATR downpipe & test pipe (for off road use). Ended up with over $1200 in the
exhaust system. If I had it do over again, I would have a custom unit made
for a fraction of the cost.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:14:47 PST
From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
Subject: [none]

>Engine power is directly related to the density of the air/fuel >charge
in the cylinder.  In a normally aspirated engine the air >charge
issucked in.  In a turbocharged or supercharged engine it is >pushed in.

Sorry, another MINOR correction again....in all engines, the intake
charge is "pushed in."  Normally asperated engine don't "suck in" the
air, the intake charge is pushed in by atmospheric pressure. when the
piston drops on the intake stroke, volume increases in the cylinder, and
drops the pressure, leaving a pressure differential...the 14.7psia
(absolute pressure, not guage pressure) atmospheric pressure "pushes"
the charge into the roughly 6psia cylinder.

another note:  a very basic way of thinking about how the larger turbo's
move more air at the same guage pressure.  if you are say shoveling
snow, and you use a 2" X 2" shovel you displace say .5 square feet of
snow.....if you use a 4" X 4" shovel, you going to pick up far more snow
with each swing of the shove.

Nathan Crisman
91 Talon AWD (16g turbo, frontmount IC..lots of fuel cut)
92 stealth TT (new engine,arty's turbo's...ready to sell)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:15:39 PST
From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine breathing / turbo101

>Engine power is directly related to the density of the air/fuel >charge
in the cylinder.  In a normally aspirated engine the air >charge
issucked in.  In a turbocharged or supercharged engine it is >pushed in.

Sorry, another MINOR correction again....in all engines, the intake
charge is "pushed in."  Normally asperated engine don't "suck in" the
air, the intake charge is pushed in by atmospheric pressure. when the
piston drops on the intake stroke, volume increases in the cylinder, and
drops the pressure, leaving a pressure differential...the 14.7psia
(absolute pressure, not guage pressure) atmospheric pressure "pushes"
the charge into the roughly 6psia cylinder.

another note:  a very basic way of thinking about how the larger turbo's
move more air at the same guage pressure.  if you are say shoveling
snow, and you use a 2" X 2" shovel you displace say .5 square feet of
snow.....if you use a 4" X 4" shovel, you going to pick up far more snow
with each swing of the shove.

Nathan Crisman
91 Talon AWD (16g turbo, frontmount IC..lots of fuel cut)
92 stealth TT (new engine,arty's turbo's...ready to sell)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 20:38:39 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer

Hey Roger, I hope its correct. The reason I'm skeptical is that I've spoken
with Dynojet about 6 months ago. At that time they did not make an AWD Dyno.
I really hope this is 4 real. Us guys here in the Northeast need one a bit
closer then CA.
I'm dying to see what the limits are on 15G modified set up running race gas?
I'll bet we are in for a nice surprise.
Arty

<< Subj: Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer
 Date: 3/17/99 3:18:32 PM Eastern Standard Time
 From: robby@swissonline.ch (Roger Gerl)
 Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 
 This is the official email from Extreme and not only a statement from Jeffrey
!
 
 Regards,
 Roger
 
 --------------
 
 Greetings!
 
 Extreme Motorsports' web pages have been updated as of March 16,
 1999.  Here's what's new this time around:
 
   A quick update with some BIG news at Extreme.  We've finally gotten
   approval from the landlord, so we'll be installing a brand spankin' new
   1200 HP, 200 MPH Dynojet dynamometer in the shop in a few weeks. The dyno
   will let us test FWD and AWD cars right on site and dial-in our monster
   motors before hitting the track.
 
   With all of the things we have in store for 1999, we're just hoping the
   1200 HP limit will be enough!
 
 Extreme's web pages are located at:
 
   http://www.extrememotorsports.com/
  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 18:30:52 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

Hello all,

  I have just recently acqired a wrecked 1992 3000GT SL (67K miles).
The car is not worth rebuilding but there are plenty of useful parts
left on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so I have a
67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from the blown
engine in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint with
mirror),all the passenger side ground effects, rear bumper and cover,
the 3 tail lights, passenger side quarter panel and quarter glass, non
VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims, and quite a few other
minor items. If anyone is interested contact me directly, I have no
use for the items and will let them go at a very low price.

    Thanks, Dustin






_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:51:37 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer

In a message dated 3/17/99 8:44:37 PM, you wrote:

<<Hey Roger, I hope its correct. The reason I'm skeptical is that I've spoken
with Dynojet about 6 months ago. At that time they did not make an AWD Dyno.
I really hope this is 4 real. Us guys here in the Northeast need one a bit
closer then CA.
I'm dying to see what the limits are on 15G modified set up running race gas?
I'll bet we are in for a nice surprise.
Arty
>>

Hellllllllllloooooo it's only a 2 wheel dyno. All you have to do is call and
ask them.

So don't get your hopes up

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:00:58 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body part s

Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a 94?  If so how much do you
want for it?

-----Original Message-----
From: dustin poos [mailto:vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:31 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and
drivetrain, and body parts


Hello all,

  I have just recently acqired a wrecked 1992 3000GT SL (67K
miles).
The car is not worth rebuilding but there are plenty of
useful parts
left on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so
I have a
67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from the
blown
engine in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint with
mirror),all the passenger side ground effects, rear bumper
and cover,
the 3 tail lights, passenger side quarter panel and quarter
glass, non
VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims, and quite a
few other
minor items. If anyone is interested contact me directly, I
have no
use for the items and will let them go at a very low price.

    Thanks, Dustin






_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:13:57 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: just a question????????????

Hey,
 
     Ever since I have seen an article in Turbo Magazine titled, "Can
High Compression and High Boost Coincide?". Or something to that
effect. I have had a question in my mind. I figured you would all
think I was stupid but here go's. I figured that if you up the factory
compression on a 6G72 TT engine (8.5:1), to 10:1 using various parts
from the NA engine, heads, cams and such, it would increase power
output. But also there would be a pre-ignition problem perhaps??????
And is there enough valve clearence????? If not has anyone tried to
increase compression on a TT engine by other means?? Did it work?? I
think you may have to advance the ignition timing somehow for this to
work. Anyone that would like to respond or just to laugh is welcome to.

      Dustin




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:18:45 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body part s

It should be the  same. all I have is the box itself no handles or
latches.

   Dustin



- ---Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com> wrote:
>
> Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a 94?  If so how much
do you
> want for it?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: dustin poos [mailto:vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:31 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and
> drivetrain, and body parts
>
>
> Hello all,
>
>   I have just recently acqired a wrecked 1992 3000GT SL (67K
> miles).
> The car is not worth rebuilding but there are plenty of
> useful parts
> left on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so
> I have a
> 67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from the
> blown
> engine in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint with
> mirror),all the passenger side ground effects, rear bumper
> and cover,
> the 3 tail lights, passenger side quarter panel and quarter
> glass, non
> VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims, and quite a
> few other
> minor items. If anyone is interested contact me directly, I
> have no
> use for the items and will let them go at a very low price.
>
>     Thanks, Dustin
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:33:40 -0500
From: "Michele Putman" <m.putman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: custom exhaust

Borla is fine but I read that the interior of the exhaust goes bad or
begins to rattle before other after-market exhausts, so I did some
research and found that the HKS Superdragger is a better exhaust and I
have been extremely happy with the results.  HKS is a little more
expensive but has better longevity.
Just my .02 worth!
Chuck
'93 Stealth (BadAss) Why...'cause it rocks!!!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:02:40 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: turbo 101 [ yet again ] long

this is an attempted engineering analysis of the turbo
size/flow issue. The numbers I'm using were posted by
others and may not be correct --- it matters not !
The basic principle is correct.

The three turbos talked about are ---- [ Approximate values ]
 9B --- 300 CFM   at 15 PSI
13G--- 365 CFM   at 15 PSI
15G---400 CFM    at 15 PSI
The key at this point is that all three are rated at 15 PSI, our
1 BAR target boost level.

The rating for the 9B implies that it can provide from 0 to 300
Cubic Feet per Minute and still maintain a boost level of at least
15 PSI. It further implies that for flow rates beyond 300 CFM the
 pressure will not be 15 PSI. In fact if you exceed the rated flow
 the boost will drop. How much -- I don't know, although I'm sure
 charts exist that cover its full operational range.Similarly the
 13g and 15 G are rated 365 CFM and 400 CFM.

The pressurized air created is routed to the intake plenum via
the intercoolers [ more later ] and the throttle body. The throttle
body cares not how this pressure was generated ---- it doesn't
care if its a 9 B a 15 G or a six pack of gerbils on a treadmill.
What the  throttle body does care about though is CFM --- if the
engine is demanding more than 300 CFM then the 9B cannot
provide that amount of air at our 15 PSI target. The result ?? A
drop in boost pressure. To get in excess of 300 CFM you need
a larger turbo!!

The increase in the temperature of the air in the induction system
is primarily because the air was compressed. Boyles law sez there
is a fixed relationship between pressure, volume and temperature.
e.g.  if you increase the temperature in a fixed volume then the
pressure goes up.   if you increase the pressure in a fixed volume
the temperature goes up [ our case ].  If you increase volume at a
fixed temperature then pressure goes down etc.etc.

In our case some additional heating is caused by the turbo housing,
being driven by exhaust it has to retain heat. additionally some heat
is picked up as a result of the high heat in the engine compartment.
The major source of heat however,  is that caused by pressurization
of air in the turbo --- again it makes no difference if the pressure is
created by the 15G or our steroid enhanced gerbils. The job of the
intercooler is to reduce the intake charge temperature and thus
maximize the charge density.

Bottom line ---- It appears as though our cars exceed the 300 CFM
level sence boost drops at high RPM with the stock turbo.
The 9 B is fine as long as you don't need sustained
boost of 15 PSI beyond  the 300 CFM level. If you want 20 PSI for
 Autobahn speed runs then bigger is better. .

The ability to calculate the flow rate based on displacement, RPM,
volumetric efficiency,charge density etc. etc.  probably requires
a suprecomputer and is best left to the automotive engineering folk.



                                            Jim
      ------93     "arrest me red" Stealth  TT -----
                   SSBC @  1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @ .034
                             G--Tech    0 --60  4.9 sec.    1/4  13.3 @ 110
                                               [ suspension mods next ]


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:16:48 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

What's up Dustin?  Do you have the rear right light panel that acts as an
access cover for the rear lights?  If u do have it how much?  And one exhaust
tip=).  It fell off my car a month ago.

thanks,

Larry A

94 3000gt SL

3si#  224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:37:55 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

Dustin,
I need the passenger side outside door handle assembly. If you are willing
to seperate it from the door, let me know!

Thanks,
Jose Soriano
91 Stealth RT/TT
Amahoser@Linkline.com
go ahead and e-mail me privatley


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:20:13 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: custom exhaust

In a message dated 3/17/99 10:33:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
m.putman@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< Borla is fine but I read that the interior of the exhaust goes bad or
 begins to rattle before other after-market exhausts, so I did some
 research and found that the HKS Superdragger is a better exhaust and I
 have been extremely happy with the results.  HKS is a little more
 expensive but has better longevity.
 Just my .02 worth! >>

Chuck, do u know if the hks is made for NA? 

thanks,

Larry A

94 3000gt SL

#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:25:48 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

I might let me see if the guy that might buy the door wants it. what
is it worth??
 
  Dustin


- ---Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com> wrote:
>
> Dustin,
> I need the passenger side outside door handle assembly. If you are
willing
> to seperate it from the door, let me know!
>
> Thanks,
> Jose Soriano
> 91 Stealth RT/TT
> Amahoser@Linkline.com
> go ahead and e-mail me privatley
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:25:48 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

I might let me see if the guy that might buy the door wants it. what
is it worth??
 
  Dustin


- ---Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com> wrote:
>
> Dustin,
> I need the passenger side outside door handle assembly. If you are
willing
> to seperate it from the door, let me know!
>
> Thanks,
> Jose Soriano
> 91 Stealth RT/TT
> Amahoser@Linkline.com
> go ahead and e-mail me privatley
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:30:24 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

Are you taking about the grey panel inside the trunk???
 I have it, how does five dollars sound??
  
   Dustin



- ---CHiLER555@aol.com wrote:
>
> What's up Dustin?  Do you have the rear right light panel that acts
as an
> access cover for the rear lights?  If u do have it how much?  And
one exhaust
> tip=).  It fell off my car a month ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> 3si#  224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:30:24 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

Are you taking about the grey panel inside the trunk???
 I have it, how does five dollars sound??
  
   Dustin



- ---CHiLER555@aol.com wrote:
>
> What's up Dustin?  Do you have the rear right light panel that acts
as an
> access cover for the rear lights?  If u do have it how much?  And
one exhaust
> tip=).  It fell off my car a month ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> 3si#  224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:32:16 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

5 dollars sound very good.  The only other part I'm interested in is one
Exhaust tip.  DO u have any left on the car? 


Thanks,

Larry A

94 3000gt SL

#224
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:33:04 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Admin Notice

Just a short polite notice here folks;

PLEASE respond privately to posted adds for parts,  and do not post
that response back to the list.

Thanks

Darc.... for the admin

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:39:07 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Howdy and a question

Hi Darc.

How's things?

What was the resolution regarding posting items for sale from private
parties?  I have some things I would like to get rid of and did post them on
3Si.org but have had no bites.

What's the lowdown?

I should have my engine back by the end of the week -- it is finally done!
Just waiting on injectors and some other bits to arrive.  Might have the car
running by the end of the weekend or shortly thereafter.


Regards,

Barry

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:46:57 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

Yes I have all four, If you are ready to get the stuff I will send it
COD, just give me your address and exactly what you want.

      Thanks, Dustin

- ---CHiLER555@aol.com wrote:
>
> 5 dollars sound very good.  The only other part I'm interested in is
one
> Exhaust tip.  DO u have any left on the car? 
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> #224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:46:57 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

Yes I have all four, If you are ready to get the stuff I will send it
COD, just give me your address and exactly what you want.

      Thanks, Dustin

- ---CHiLER555@aol.com wrote:
>
> 5 dollars sound very good.  The only other part I'm interested in is
one
> Exhaust tip.  DO u have any left on the car? 
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> #224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:50:42 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Howdy and a question

Sorry folks, this was mistakeningly sent to the list.

My apologies.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Darc.
>
> How's things?
>

<blah blah snipped>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:05:59 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Howdy and a question

Barry E. King wrote:

> Hi Darc.
>
> How's things?

Not bad.

>
>
> What was the resolution regarding posting items for sale from private
> parties?  I have some things I would like to get rid of and did post them on
> 3Si.org but have had no bites.

Without going back and looking at the darn rules (and I hate doing that) I believe you
are allowed to post like this every couple of weeks . I believe the reason is to keep it
from being a buisness site instead of  the  tec group it is. Nevertheless it's nice to
see these items are available from my standpoint, rather than hunting around for them.
Post them by all means, but ask for private responses and save us the trouble of dialing
in the goofs who post back to group asking prices, dickering publically, etc.

>
>
> What's the lowdown?

As above.

>
>
> I should have my engine back by the end of the week -- it is finally done!

Bonus...dancing on the roof time!!!

> Just waiting on injectors and some other bits to arrive.  Might have the car
> running by the end of the weekend or shortly thereafter.

I cann't imagine your euphoria! Wish I was there to watch you take her for her first
run. Good on ya!! Actually, I couldn't be much happier if it was me.

Best regards


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:09:01 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Howdy and a question

OOOOPS!!

How the mighty have fallen. I used the reply key thinking of course that I was replying
privately, so I guess I owe a big appology here as well...mud on the face time!

Darc

Barry E. King wrote:

> Sorry folks, this was mistakeningly sent to the list.
>
> My apologies.
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Hi Darc.
> >
> > How's things?
> >
>
> <blah blah snipped>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:32:41 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me privatley so we can
discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your email address does not come up

thanks
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:20:26 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

sure my address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com


- ---Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com> wrote:
>
> dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me privatley so we can
> discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your email address does not
come up
>
> thanks
> Jose Soriano
> Amahoser@Linkline.com
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:20:26 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts

sure my address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com


- ---Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com> wrote:
>
> dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me privatley so we can
> discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your email address does not
come up
>
> thanks
> Jose Soriano
> Amahoser@Linkline.com
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 01:41:33 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: duplicate messages?

  Anyone else getting two of some messages?  My emails from other locations aren't being
duplicated.

Jason

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 23:44:45 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, MODERATOR MESSAGE

> Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a 94?  If so how much do you
> want for it?

Please ONLY respond personally to Dustins email address and do not post any
questions concerning his car here. His address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com.

Thanks,
Roger, for the moderators
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999 23:50:18 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: just a question????????????

> compression on a 6G72 TT engine (8.5:1), to 10:1 using various parts
> from the NA engine, heads, cams and such, it would increase power
> output.

... and kills your rings, etc. No chance to get a healthy engine with high
compression and big boost !

>... just to laugh is welcome to.

MODERATOR message :

If you want to receive a laugh please subscribe to the other lists ! Please
re-read the rules for our list and you'll notice that no flames nor "not
appropriate" comments are welcome.

Regards,
Roger
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 02:16:32 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?

I need your collective advice..

I may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95 VR4 that I could pick
up for $18,000..  Here's the catch..  the 95 has 90,000 miles, and no warranty.
However, it's a one owner car and was apparently maintained religously.  I know
to check for all the obvious things like 60K service, oil changes, tranny
replacement(s), etc..  I also know a number of you have some very high mile
cars, so I know they have the potential to last a long time.

I guess what I'm after is, is this just way too many miles for the money even
if it's in great shape?   I haven't seen the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
hours away, and want to make sure I'm not wasting my time..  Is there anything
specific to 95 models that I need to be aware of or look for?

I was actually planning on looking for a low to average mile 94-96 over the
next 9 months..  should I wait?

thanks..

Dave
91 VR4 (may soon be gone..  :(  but may be replaced..  :)  )
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 05:04:45 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?

Dave,
  My 94 VR4 has roughly 91,500 miles on it and it runs great.  I bought the car with 54k
miles on it and had the trans replaced shortly thereafter.  I've yet to do the timing
belt (money, shhh), and only recently changed the plugs and wires.  The plugs had opened
up to a gap of .045 or worse, and the car stumbled under hard acceleration at times.
With the original plugs and wires and only an air filter for mods, I was able to
consitantly run 13.60s while slipping the clutch slightly, and even ran 13.3s while
dumping it and spinning.  The car now runs better than ever.  Arty's 91 VR4 has over
115k miles on it if I recall correctly, and he's run 11.41@124.32 with his mods.  He's
running 23 lbs of boost and says his factory rings are the only problem now.  The stock
pistons are fine, and they are said to be one of the only weak links in the 3000s
engine.  If properly taken care of, I don't think the mileage should be a big issue, but
don't hesitate to gather other opinions.  Also, that sounds like it's very close to NADA
retail value, not a steal, and not a bad deal.

good luck,
Jason

Dave wrote:

> I need your collective advice..
>
> I may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95 VR4 that I could pick
> up for $18,000..  Here's the catch..  the 95 has 90,000 miles, and no warranty.
> However, it's a one owner car and was apparently maintained religously.  I know
> to check for all the obvious things like 60K service, oil changes, tranny
> replacement(s), etc..  I also know a number of you have some very high mile
> cars, so I know they have the potential to last a long time.
>
> I guess what I'm after is, is this just way too many miles for the money even
> if it's in great shape?   I haven't seen the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
> hours away, and want to make sure I'm not wasting my time..  Is there anything
> specific to 95 models that I need to be aware of or look for?
>
> I was actually planning on looking for a low to average mile 94-96 over the
> next 9 months..  should I wait?
>
> thanks..
>
> Dave
> 91 VR4 (may soon be gone..  :(  but may be replaced..  :)  )
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:24:56 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: custom exhaust

Don't get an HKS for a NA. It costs WAY too much! My 93 R/T sounds great
and has a noticeable power increase after I installed a custom system.
Have an exhaust shop fabricate a 3" pipe from the catalytic converter,
then Y it off into 2- 2 1/2" pipes and have dual ansa baffled tips put
on the end. It sounds great-borderline obnoxious-but it does give high
end power. You might need mufflers if you have inspection there, it is
loud, but it sounds good. The 24 valve head breathes well, and it
doesn't sound like a lawnmower.

Matt
#311
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 09:10:02 -0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Final deal on Donnellye electronic mirror purchase

I just received the finals on the mirror deal.  I can get them
through my business for $160 + S&H.  If I can round up 10 people I can get
the price to $140 + S&H.
I will be putting in an order soon so let me know if anyone else is
interested.

Andy

http://www.donnellye.com/mirror.htm
They have two mirror and they are priced the same.  They are:

1. Auto dimming mirror with compass and temperature
2. Auto dimming mirror with compass and map lights.



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 13:54:12 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads

Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > Has anyone had experience with these pads?
> >
> > I'm thinking about giving them a try and I'm looking for feedback about
> > their performance, dust, etc.
>
> [ ... ] It is very possible that not
> truely turning them and actually removing metal may have contributed to
> the rapid wear of the pads.

Metal Matrix pads lasted about 15k miles (mostly highway/Autobahn) on my
front stock rotors, which were turned immediately prior to
installation.  They do seem to improve braking but wear out too fast and
do seem to create more dust.  My rotors also re-warped after only a few
high-speed stops (eg- 130 mph hard down to 70 mph) with these pads.  Now
I'm back on stock pads and am pretty disappointed.  Might be time to
look into Roger's Bremsa system...

BTW, I also have stainless steel lines, though they did little more than
boost confidence (they are less prone to failure).

Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:32:29 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

Hi Everyone.

The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered that the stock boost gauge
would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14 PSI..

Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the max
I got was

Flash boost
.75 bar
Steady boost
.55 bar

Questions ?

Is this normal ?
Is it normal for the stock boost gauge to be THAT Off ?
Any possibility to correct the stock boost gauge ?

Best

Henri
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:40:48 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as a measurement of boost.  On
my '94 the needle is pretty much pegged at anything over 10 psi as measured
with an SPI gauge.

The stock boost gauge calculates manifold pressure based on RPM and airflow
from the MAS rather than measuring it using a MAP sensor.  Consider it a
nifty gadget to impress passengers and demonstrate that there is indeed
boost present.  Beyond that it is unfortunately just a novelty display.

Correcting the stock boost gauge is not feasible since the calculation is
performed by the code in the ECU.  Besides that, it would always be an
approximation, not a true measurement.  You did the right thing which was to
install a good aftermarket boost gauge.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi Everyone.
>
> The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered that the stock boost gauge
> would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14 PSI..
>
> Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the max
> I got was
>
> Flash boost
> .75 bar
> Steady boost
> .55 bar
>
> Questions ?
>
> Is this normal ?
> Is it normal for the stock boost gauge to be THAT Off ?
> Any possibility to correct the stock boost gauge ?
>
> Best
>
> Henri

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:43:54 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?

     I would not even consider buying a VR4 with that many miles unless you
have an aftermarket warranty arranged. Don't buy the car then start looking-
it's asking for trouble.
    I bought a '91 3000GT SL that was absolutely immaculate - doctor owned,
good records, barely even any dirt on the floormats - it had 90k on it. I
figured I would get a warranty after I shopped around and found the best.
After all, the non-turbo 3000GTs have some of the best reliability ratings of
all cars made (theis was 50% of the reason I bought the car).
   A couple weeks after I bought the car, the first and only thing that I ever
noticed wrong with the car - it started "ticking" on the way to work one
morning. 15 minutes later it was a loud knock. The engine had suffered major
internal damage due to a cracked crankshaft - and I had not purchased a
warranty yet. DUMB DUMB DUMB.
   So to make a long story even longer - if it looks like a nice car - buy it
AFTER getting a warranty - you can not tell how long a car is going to last by
how well it has been cared for - a VR4 is going to need major mechanical work
sometime while you own it.

   Steve C.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:43:39 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

I heard if your replace the stock boost gauge in the stock place you need to
replace all the gauges.  Is that true?  I need a turbo timer for my car so
would it be better for me to get the Blitz with the Boost gauge.  Thanks for
any info.
Joshua
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 18, 1999 10:41 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT
innacurrate ??

The stock boost gauge is pretty much useless as a
measurement of boost.  On
my '94 the needle is pretty much pegged at anything over 10
psi as measured
with an SPI gauge.

> Best
>
> Henri

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 07:40:35 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??

>
>The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered that the stock boost gauge
>would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14 PSI..
>
>Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the max
>I got was
>
>Flash boost
>.75 bar
>Steady boost
>.55 bar


Sounds right to me --- I bought a 93 stealth and had the same results
14+ on stock gage and 9 PSI on an aftermarket gage. The stock gage
is apparently electrical and therefore calculates the boost based on
engine parameters.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:00:10 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?

Dave wrote:

> snip
>
> I was actually planning on looking for a low to average mile 94-96 over the
> next 9 months..  should I wait?
>

Hi Dave;

My 2c worth ( mutiplied by .62) is to wait and find a lower mileage car. You obviously
love the breed, and I can empathize with your thirst to get one soon...but patience is a
virtue which does pay off in this hunt. There are those of us who drive it on weekends,
garage it,  wax it religiously, and smile at it. That's the kind of baby you want. High
mileage implies wear and tear to all mechanical/electrical components and the interior,
which normally has not yet occurred on low mileage cars. Much of this wear can be
glossed over with good detailing before sale, but it's still there. As an example,
there  was a 94 for sale here recently with 87 thousand kilometers on it (that's about
45+ k miles) and they wanted $28 (multiplied by.62) for it. That's a year older with
half the miles and probably could be had for the same price...so keep looking.

Best of luck

Darc

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #127
****************************

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