--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #127
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Thursday, March 18 1999 Volume
01 : Number
127
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 10:59:11 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
Interesting.
Now I
have a new theory: My 275's are mounted on 9" wheels, not 8.5" wheels
like
stock. So my tread width will be slightly wider. (0.5" = 13 mm or so,
wider
wheels pull the tires out a bit). I would swear that my tires would
rub the
spring perch with 46mm offset on my wheels. And I din't think that
0.5" wheel
width would make much of a difference, but then again we're
talking in terms
of individual millimeters of clearance here.
On the other hand, it could
be a difference between the '91-93 and '94+
cars. If the rotors are different
thicknesses (quite possible, since the
brakes were revised), or the
half-shafts are different lengths (which I
believe is the case anyways,
because of the switch to the 6-spd), the
mounting surfaces for the wheels
could be in a slightly different position
on the two different cars. Which
would have the effect of making a tiny
difference in the offset of the tire
relative to the spring perch.
Sorry for taking waayyy to long to read
through my list email. :-)
-Ed
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Ken Middaugh [mailto:middaugh@omega.gat.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, March 09, 1999 1:48 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.net;
stealth@dragnet.com
Subject: Team3S:
Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
Sorry I'm violating the
one topic per post rule, but they are related
enough.
Summary:
Firehawk 275/40/17 will not rub struts on stock 17x8.5 46mm
offset rims, even
with 1" lowering with Eibach springs. Slight rubbing
will occur on the
inner splash guard at full wheel lock though.
The Lowdown: Last
month I needed to replace the tires on my '91 VR4
with stock 46mm offset
rims. I solicited information from all lists
about max tire sizes on
stock rims. A couple of posts/replies stood
out. Shawn Dewey
replied that he was running Firestone Firehawk SZ50
275/40/17 on stock rims
on his '93 VR4, and Bob Fontana posted that he
has Goodyear Eagle GSC in the
same size on his stock '93 VR4 rims.
Based on their success, I got Firehawk
275/40/17 installed at a local
dealer (prices almost as good as Tire
Rack's). I had them install one
tire on the front right first and they
drove around in fast circles in
their parking lot. When they took the
tire off, we noticed the slight
rubbing on the inner splash guard that Bob
mentioned, as well as very
slight rubbing on the strut's spring perch.
I had them mount all 4. I
heard no rubbing and I don't drive in tight
circles at full wheel lock (
I normally go to lock and back off a little,
still get around tight
corners).
Two weeks ago, I replaced my struts
since I suspected that they were the
cause of some suspension clunking I was
getting over sharp bumps. They
had 89,000 miles on them! Way
overdue! While I was there, I decided to
replace the springs with
Eibach's Pro-Kit. When I removed the old
struts, I didn't notice any
more rubbing on the spring perches, and no
visible wear on the tires
either. With the new springs and the car
lowered an inch, the camber is
a little too negative on all corners. I
figured I'd leave the extra
negative camber for my visit to the track,
and get an alignment
after.
Last Saturday I went to Holtville for an uncompetetive Track
Time
event. Man was that a blast! (I used up my fairly new
Stillen Metal
Matrix brake pads in half a day). I wanted to check the
tire clearance
after the most aggressive driving so I pulled off the front
tires.
There was absolutely no rubbing on the new struts! Also, when I
get it
aligned to spec, removing the excess negative camber will pull the
tire
further away from the strut.
Conclusion: Perhaps the new
strut is different with the perch in a
slightly different location, or
perhaps the old perch bent closer to the
tire after so many miles.
Also, a small spring drop should be an
advantage since removing the added
camber will move the top of the tire
away from the strut (I'll report after I
have an alignment performed).
Ed Fein had solicited info from folks
running 275's on stock rims, so
add me to the list!
1. Year, make and
model of car '91 VR4
2. Brand and model of tire Firestone Firehawk SZ50,
275/40/17
3. Rubbing, if any, and severity No rubbing on outer
fenderwell,
no
rubbing on new struts. Slight rubbing on inner splashguard
4.
Misc. info Eibach Pro-Kit 1" lowering springs
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 10:43:14 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
Yes, the swept area
of the rotor is thicker and yes the rotor is larger.
This will affect the
wheel width 0.000 inches. (read will not affect)
The Front axles are the
exact same length and size on the 5/6 speed.
The brakes will not affect
the width needed on the wheel, only the offset.
On putting large tires on a
car, remember that the tire tends to roll on a
wheel if the wheel is too
narrow. This may cause clearance problems with
the strut during a hard
corner and could cause the wheel to lock
momentarily.
>
Brad
> Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Fein, Edward
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:59 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
On the other
hand, it could be a difference between the '91-93 and '94+
cars. If the
rotors are different thicknesses (quite possible, since the
brakes were
revised), or the half-shafts are different lengths (which I
believe is the
case anyways, because of the switch to the 6-spd), the
mounting surfaces for
the wheels could be in a slightly different position
on the two different
cars. Which would have the effect of making a tiny
difference in the offset
of the tire relative to the spring perch.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:06:43 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Ground
Control
Will the folks that just put these in recently contact me. I wish
to compare
notes
and scribbles ( on the instruction sheets) . I also
got the camber plates :)
Thanks in advance. Dave 93 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:51:52 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AWD dynamometer
In a message dated 3/17/99 9:41:26 AM, jefyoung@ix.netcom.com
wrote:
<<Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD will be
installing an AWD dyno
in the next couple of weeks. Good news for
all of you people in that area.
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
In
a message dated 3/17/99 9:41:08 AM, you wrote:
<<Seems that Extreme
Motorsports in Jessup, MD will be installing an AWD dyno
in the next
couple of weeks. Good news for all of you people in that
area.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>>
Actually
Jeffrey, you are unfortunately incorrect. Extreme will be installing
a 2WD
Dyno in about 3 weeks. They will be able to dyno AWD's but with a lot of
mods
to the cars. For the DSM's they will have to have a welded viscus
cupling,
and will have to pull their transfer cases off. (No real big deal for
the
full out race AWD's with the welded front diffs) And for the stealths
and
3000's which are AWD, you will have to install a FWD tranny and then
remove
the transfer cases... IT's going to be a pain in the ass to do all of
this,
but for those people with AWD who are serious about dynoing their
cars.
Extreme will be sure to hook them up!
Catch you later,
-
-"The Kid" Adam Weltz
1996 3000 GT VR-4
11.25 @ 125.43mph!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:02:47 PST
From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Looking for some
feedback...
1st gen VR4 getting long in the tooth.
I experiencing a
growing amount of movement in the shift lever when
in gear under load and off
load. There seemed to always be a few mm
movement since new when on
and off the gas but within the last few weeks
the travel has grown
significantly.
Along with this I can feel a sight hesitation in the driveline
to the
rear wheels and a dull thud noise as it loads.
Best case scenario
I am hoping this will go away with a clutch
replacement needed soon.
Worst case POS tranny or transfer probs.
Any ideas much appreciated...
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:19:06 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AWD dynamometer
This is the official email from Extreme and not
only a statement from Jeffrey !
Regards,
Roger
-
--------------
Greetings!
Extreme Motorsports' web pages have been
updated as of March 16,
1999. Here's what's new this time
around:
A quick update with some BIG news at Extreme. We've
finally gotten
approval from the landlord, so we'll be installing a
brand spankin' new
1200 HP, 200 MPH Dynojet dynamometer in the shop in
a few weeks. The dyno
will let us test FWD and AWD cars right on site
and dial-in our monster
motors before hitting the track.
With all of the things we have in store for 1999, we're just hoping
the
1200 HP limit will be enough!
Extreme's web pages are
located at:
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/
....
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:56 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Replace your motor
mounts; doing this will cure your problems.
> Brad
Member of ESSC
since 1999>
> Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Michael Reiss
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 2:03 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Looking for some
feedback...
1st gen VR4 getting long in the tooth.
I experiencing a
growing amount of movement in the shift lever when
in gear under load and off
load. There seemed to always be a few mm
movement since new when on and
off the gas but within the last few weeks
the travel has grown
significantly.
Along with this I can feel a sight hesitation in the driveline
to the
rear wheels and a dull thud noise as it loads.
Best case scenario I
am hoping this will go away with a clutch
replacement needed soon.
Worst case POS tranny or transfer probs.
Any ideas much appreciated...
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 15:33:53 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re:
Team3S: AWD dynamometer
In a message dated 3/17/99 3:18:32 PM, robby@swissonline.ch
wrote:
<<This is the official email from Extreme and not only a
statement from
Jeffrey !
Regards,
Roger
>>
Look, I
know for a fact they are only getting a 2WD Dyno. They sent an e-mail
out, on
there website saying they will be ABLE to dyno AWD cars. NOT that they
are
getting an AWD dyno. If you don't believe me call them for
yourself.
301-776-2903. I am good friends with extreme and no more about it
then
Jeffrey.
Adam Weltz
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:58:31 PST
From: "Michael Reiss" <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Never would have guessed this in a
million years..are you serious?
You sound so sure this will
work.
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
>Date: Wed, 17 Mar 1999
14:34:56 -0600
>
>Replace your motor mounts; doing this will cure
your problems.
>
>> Brad
>Member of ESSC since
1999>
>> Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:09:44 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fw: new vendor
Received this on the Dragnet list. Looks
like another source for stock
parts beside Tallahassee
Mitsu.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>
>
>
My name is Bill Hall with Norco Mitsubishi in Norco California, and I
just
>want to say Hi and let you know if you need any factory mitsubishi
parts I
>give 20% off and ship anywhere in the U.S. I know you already
have other
>dealers you buy from but it doesn't hurt to have more
people on your side.
>So
>if I can do anything for you let me
know.
>
>e-mail address.
mitsparts@pe.net
>
> or check
out our web site @ www.norcomits.com
>
>Thanks
Bill.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:10:26 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov
er
Ok, so for those wanting the executive summary: it's not
gone.
The symptoms:
* Ticking sound coming from under the valve
cover(s - hard to hear
back bank).
* Quiet (almost not noticeable)
when engine is cold, loud when engine
is warm.
* Doesn't go away when
revving the engine slightly.
* Sound like
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav
BTW thanks to
Rob for putting that on the web!
Things I've tried:
*
10W30 dino oil
* 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
*
10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
* Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's
bad)
* OEM filters
* K&N Oil Filter (currently)
* Marvel Mystery
oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
* Arty's cleaning method (posted on
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
*
Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
replace - NA
car)
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt
with
filter replace - NA car)
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and
back down several times.
* Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify
that oil is
getting to the cams and valves. Lots o' oil being slung
around. Looks ok
upon visual inspection.
* Beating forehead
repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
the Mitsu diamond onto my
forehead. Perhaps will try this when engine is
hot :)
Things I
haven't tried (yet):
* Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on the
dipstick. (How much
should I drain out if it's currently sitting at the top
mark on the
dipsitck???
* Anything others might suggest
* Talking to
the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I do
this).
Possible
Causes I Know of:
* Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
* Bad
lash adjuster(s)
* Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
* Bad valve(s)
*
Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve cover ;)
So, anyone have
any other suggestions? Possible causes of the problem?
Ways to solve
the problem? Is it time to go to the dealer? Help?
TIA
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
-
------
----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice from
a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With God
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
*
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 12:32:41 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
I had exactly the same
problem with my 94 VR4 at 58,000 miles. It turned
out to be a
collapsing engine mount (driver's side). Mitsu put in a new
one (under
warrenty) and the shifter movement, vibration and clunking went
away.
The mechanic said that this is a fairly common problem.
Steve
Clarke
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:22:37 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR4 Shifter/driveline play
Hey Michael;
Yep he's
certain... and by now you've probably had a kazillion other posts to
confirm
this advise. The movement you're getting is from engine torque
which is not battened
down like it should be due to the broken/split mount.
It's a cheap fix rather than the
expensive one you
feared.
Best
Darc
Michael Reiss wrote:
> Never
would have guessed this in a million years..are you serious?
> You sound
so sure this will work.
>
> >From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Team3S - VR4 Shifter/driveline play
> >Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:56 -0600
> >
> >Replace your motor
mounts; doing this will cure your problems.
> >
> >>
Brad
> >Member of ESSC since 1999>
> >> Check out my
home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
>> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#
3612682
>
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:27:05 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cov
er
Erik;
Have you tried an engine flush product like GUNK yet?? It
did it for me...the ticking
was gone! Mikael in Sweden used another
similar German product, and it did the trick
for him. Give it a try if you
have not yet and then use Mobil 1, which you apparently
are. If this fails,
you need adjustment or replacement.
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:34:31 -0800
From: Steven Clarke <steve.clarke@e-d-a.com>
Subject:
Team3S: =?us-ascii?Q?RE=3A_Team3S=3A_Results=3A__getting_rid_of_the_in?=
=?us-ascii?Q?famous_ticking_under_the_valve_cov=09er?=
You have either
got air in your lifters or (more probably) bad lifters.
Steve
Clarke
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [SMTP:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 17, 1999 1:10 PM
To: 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S
Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S: Results: getting rid of the infamous
ticking under the valve cov er
Ok, so for those wanting the executive
summary: it's not gone.
The symptoms:
* Ticking sound coming
from under the valve cover(s - hard to hear
back bank).
* Quiet
(almost not noticeable) when engine is cold, loud when engine
is warm.
*
Doesn't go away when revving the engine slightly.
* Sound like
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/8bit22k-Engine6ftFront.wav
BTW thanks to
Rob for putting that on the web!
Things I've tried:
*
10W30 dino oil
* 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
* 5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
*
10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic (currently)
* Firestone oil filter (ok, so that's
bad)
* OEM filters
* K&N Oil Filter (currently)
* Marvel Mystery
oil (1qt MMO /3 qts M1 5W30Syn)
* Arty's cleaning method (posted on
http://members.home.net/twinturbo/)
*
Filling oil so it's 1/2 way up the dipstick (4.3qt with filter
replace - NA
car)
* Filling oil so it's at the top mark on the dipstick. (4.5qt
with
filter replace - NA car)
* Revving the engine slowly to 3k RPM and
back down several times.
* Removing oil cap while engine's running to verify
that oil is
getting to the cams and valves. Lots o' oil being slung
around. Looks ok
upon visual inspection.
* Beating forehead
repeatedly against front valve cover and bruising
the Mitsu diamond onto my
forehead. Perhaps will try this when engine is
hot :)
Things I
haven't tried (yet):
* Filling the oil only to the bottom mark on the
dipstick. (How much
should I drain out if it's currently sitting at the top
mark on the
dipsitck???
* Anything others might suggest
* Talking to
the dealer (trying to do everything I can before I do
this).
Possible
Causes I Know of:
* Too much oil in oil pan (to be explored asap)
* Bad
lash adjuster(s)
* Bad bearing somewhere (where?)
* Bad valve(s)
*
Gummy bears I accidentally left under the valve cover ;)
So, anyone have
any other suggestions? Possible causes of the problem?
Ways to solve
the problem? Is it time to go to the dealer? Help?
TIA
-
--Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
-
------
----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice from
a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With God
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
*
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 13:47:21 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Results: getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve
cover
> So, anyone have any other suggestions?
How about
Gunk Engine Flush followed by Mobil 1 20/50 wieght (or is it
15/50?)
-
--
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 16:19:04 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
getting rid of the infamous ticking under the valve cover
> Things
I've tried:
> * 10W30 dino oil
> * 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> *
5W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
> * 10W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic
(currently)
Ouch, that .wav file sounds even worse than my lifters
sounded! The only
thing that made it go away in my '94 VR4 was to
switch to Mobil-1 20W50
synthetic. Higher viscosities seemed to help
keep the oil in the lifters.
If the lifters have junk in them (dirt, metal
particles, etc.) then the grit
can hold open the little valve in there and
the cam will pump the oil out of
the lifter when it gets compressed.
The higher viscosity oil probably
doesn't get forced out as easily, or is
thick enough to wash the grit
through the lifter. I'm just speculating,
but that's what took care of it
on my car.
- -Matt
Previous '94
3000GT-VR4
'93 Eclipse GSX
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:15:36 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
IF the bottom of the fender is peeling I
think it's due to the rubbing against
the ground. If you scrap the bottom
it's gonna shift the grill and therefore
crack the paint,
Larry
A.
94 3000gt Sl
3si #224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:25:20 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE:_Team3S:_Results:__getting_rid_of_the_infamous_ticking_under_t...
When
I start my car on a real cold day my lifters are LOUD for 2 second then
the
sound disappears. I really hate the sound. It has happened 3 times
since
I've owned the car. Ant suggestions?
thanks,
Larry
A
94 3000gt SL
#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 14:34:52 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise
- -----Original
Message-----
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
[mailto:CHiLER555@aol.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 17, 1999 2:25 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re:
Team3S:
RE:_Team3S:_Results:__getting_rid_of_the_infamous_ticking_under_t...
When
I start my car on a real cold day my lifters are LOUD for 2 second then
the
sound disappears. I really hate the sound. It has happened 3
times
since
I've owned the car. Ant suggestions?
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt
SL
=================================
Larry...
Use a lighter weight
oil. Cold increases the viscosity of your oil. The
sound you describe may not
be the lifters, but the valves and valve guides.
Those 2 to 3 seconds without
oil in the top end are VERY hard on the engine.
Pre-oilers are the ultimate
in preventative maintenance, but I haven't heard
of anyone on the list that's
gone that far.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 18:45:35 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: More
auto tranny problems
Anybody ever have this happen? My auto tranny is
locked in 3rd gear. No
matter what gear I put it in to (low,2nd, or drive) it
is in 3rd and
won't shift. In reverse, it clunks into first and backs up fine
, and
then clunks back into drive. I will never buy an auto tranny again!!
How
feasable is an auto to 5-speed conversion? is the tranny controlled
by
the ECU?
Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:09:43 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise
I use 5w30 castrol on my car and
change it every 2,000 miles. Is it worth me
to go
syntethic?
thanks,
Larry A.
94 3000gt
SL
<<Use a lighter weight oil. Cold
increases the viscosity of your oil. The
sound you describe may not be the
lifters, but the valves and valve guides.
Those 2 to 3 seconds without oil in
the top end are VERY hard on the engine.
Pre-oilers are the ultimate in
preventative maintenance, but I haven't heard
of anyone on the list that's
gone that far.>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:15:21 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: custom
exhaust
I need some help on deciding if I should go with a custom exhaust
or go borla.
I've been going back and forth with the idea for a month now but
I'm still
stumped,
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt
SL
#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 16:41:36 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: cold weather lifter/valve noise
You
wrote;
> I use 5w30 castrol on my car and change it every
2,000 miles. Is it worth me
> to go syntethic?
>
Not
really, unless you want to have the best for peace of mind. You change
with
admirable frequency so it's not really necessary. Synthetic oil would be
advantageous if
you were running turbos, as fossil lubriacants do not take
the high heat as well (cook
and break down) which tubo equipped cars
seem to generate.. In your case I cann't see a
great advantage to
changing. However, if cold is a real problem there, some sort of
snake oil
additive that keeps the metal coated with a thin lubricant might be
of
advantageous during prolonged cold snaps. I cann't advise any and hate to
suggest it,
but cold (as in frigid) grinding starts is not good. Once the
weather changes and you do
your next change, use a flush to get it
out.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:07:29 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: custom exhaust
- -----Original Message-----
From: CHiLER555@aol.com [mailto:CHiLER555@aol.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 17, 1999 4:15 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: custom exhaust
I need some help on deciding if I should go with a
custom exhaust or go
borla.
I've been going back and forth with the idea
for a month now but I'm still
stumped,
thanks,
Larry
A
94 3000gt SL
===============================
Larry...
The
choice is really yours. Here's some pros &
cons...
Borla:
Pros...already fabricated, ready to bolt on.
Trusted name. High quality
materials. Good mandrel bends (no
kinks).
Cons...cost. Volume (Borla is loud).
Custom:
Pros...can
be much less expensive, particularly if you don't use stainless
steel. You
can have the sound you want, by choosing the mufflers you want.
Get the look
you want, choose your own tips.
Cons...may not fit as well, potential for
rattles and vibration.
I bought a GReddy catback, for the pre-fabricated
reason. Later I added the
ATR downpipe & test pipe (for off road use).
Ended up with over $1200 in the
exhaust system. If I had it do over again, I
would have a custom unit made
for a fraction of the cost.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:14:47 PST
From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
Subject:
[none]
>Engine power is directly related to the density of the
air/fuel >charge
in the cylinder. In a normally aspirated engine
the air >charge
issucked in. In a turbocharged or supercharged
engine it is >pushed in.
Sorry, another MINOR correction again....in
all engines, the intake
charge is "pushed in." Normally asperated
engine don't "suck in" the
air, the intake charge is pushed in by atmospheric
pressure. when the
piston drops on the intake stroke, volume increases in the
cylinder, and
drops the pressure, leaving a pressure differential...the
14.7psia
(absolute pressure, not guage pressure) atmospheric pressure
"pushes"
the charge into the roughly 6psia cylinder.
another
note: a very basic way of thinking about how the larger turbo's
move
more air at the same guage pressure. if you are say shoveling
snow,
and you use a 2" X 2" shovel you displace say .5 square feet of
snow.....if
you use a 4" X 4" shovel, you going to pick up far more snow
with each swing
of the shove.
Nathan Crisman
91 Talon AWD (16g turbo, frontmount
IC..lots of fuel cut)
92 stealth TT (new engine,arty's turbo's...ready to
sell)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 17:15:39 PST
From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine breathing / turbo101
>Engine power is directly related
to the density of the air/fuel >charge
in the cylinder. In a
normally aspirated engine the air >charge
issucked in. In a
turbocharged or supercharged engine it is >pushed in.
Sorry, another
MINOR correction again....in all engines, the intake
charge is "pushed
in." Normally asperated engine don't "suck in" the
air, the intake
charge is pushed in by atmospheric pressure. when the
piston drops on the
intake stroke, volume increases in the cylinder, and
drops the pressure,
leaving a pressure differential...the 14.7psia
(absolute pressure, not guage
pressure) atmospheric pressure "pushes"
the charge into the roughly 6psia
cylinder.
another note: a very basic way of thinking about how the
larger turbo's
move more air at the same guage pressure. if you are
say shoveling
snow, and you use a 2" X 2" shovel you displace say .5 square
feet of
snow.....if you use a 4" X 4" shovel, you going to pick up far more
snow
with each swing of the shove.
Nathan Crisman
91 Talon AWD
(16g turbo, frontmount IC..lots of fuel cut)
92 stealth TT (new engine,arty's
turbo's...ready to sell)
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 20:38:39 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD
dynamometer
Hey Roger, I hope its correct. The reason I'm skeptical is
that I've spoken
with Dynojet about 6 months ago. At that time they did not
make an AWD Dyno.
I really hope this is 4 real. Us guys here in the Northeast
need one a bit
closer then CA.
I'm dying to see what the limits are on 15G
modified set up running race gas?
I'll bet we are in for a nice surprise.
Arty
<< Subj: Re: Team3S: AWD dynamometer
Date:
3/17/99 3:18:32 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: robby@swissonline.ch (Roger
Gerl)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
This
is the official email from Extreme and not only a statement from
Jeffrey
!
Regards,
Roger
--------------
Greetings!
Extreme
Motorsports' web pages have been updated as of March 16,
1999.
Here's what's new this time around:
A quick update
with some BIG news at Extreme. We've finally gotten
approval from the landlord, so we'll be installing a brand spankin'
new
1200 HP, 200 MPH Dynojet dynamometer in the shop in a few
weeks. The dyno
will let us test FWD and AWD cars right on site
and dial-in our monster
motors before hitting the
track.
With all of the things we have in store for
1999, we're just hoping the
1200 HP limit will be
enough!
Extreme's web pages are located
at:
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 18:30:52 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Hello
all,
I have just recently acqired a wrecked 1992 3000GT SL (67K
miles).
The car is not worth rebuilding but there are plenty of useful
parts
left on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so I have
a
67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from the blown
engine
in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint with
mirror),all the
passenger side ground effects, rear bumper and cover,
the 3 tail lights,
passenger side quarter panel and quarter glass, non
VR-4 spoiler, a couple
good 16" factory rims, and quite a few other
minor items. If anyone is
interested contact me directly, I have no
use for the items and will let them
go at a very low price.
Thanks,
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:51:37 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re:
Team3S: AWD dynamometer
In a message dated 3/17/99 8:44:37 PM, you
wrote:
<<Hey Roger, I hope its correct. The reason I'm skeptical is
that I've spoken
with Dynojet about 6 months ago. At that time they did not
make an AWD Dyno.
I really hope this is 4 real. Us guys here in the Northeast
need one a bit
closer then CA.
I'm dying to see what the limits are on 15G
modified set up running race gas?
I'll bet we are in for a nice surprise.
Arty
>>
Hellllllllllloooooo it's only a 2 wheel dyno. All
you have to do is call and
ask them.
So don't get your hopes
up
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:00:58 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body part s
Do you
know if the glovebox is the same as in a 94? If so how much do you
want
for it?
-----Original Message-----
From: dustin poos [mailto:vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:31 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and
drivetrain, and body
parts
Hello all,
I have just recently acqired a wrecked
1992 3000GT SL (67K
miles).
The car is not worth rebuilding but there are
plenty of
useful parts
left on it. I have already installed the engine in
my SL, so
I have a
67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from
the
blown
engine in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint
with
mirror),all the passenger side ground effects, rear bumper
and
cover,
the 3 tail lights, passenger side quarter panel and quarter
glass,
non
VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims, and quite a
few
other
minor items. If anyone is interested contact me directly, I
have
no
use for the items and will let them go at a very low
price.
Thanks,
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:13:57 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: just a question????????????
Hey,
Ever since I have seen an article in Turbo Magazine
titled, "Can
High Compression and High Boost Coincide?". Or something to
that
effect. I have had a question in my mind. I figured you would
all
think I was stupid but here go's. I figured that if you up the
factory
compression on a 6G72 TT engine (8.5:1), to 10:1 using various
parts
from the NA engine, heads, cams and such, it would increase
power
output. But also there would be a pre-ignition problem
perhaps??????
And is there enough valve clearence????? If not has anyone
tried to
increase compression on a TT engine by other means?? Did it work??
I
think you may have to advance the ignition timing somehow for this
to
work. Anyone that would like to respond or just to laugh is welcome
to.
Dustin
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 19:18:45 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body part s
It should
be the same. all I have is the box itself no handles or
latches.
Dustin
- ---Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
wrote:
>
> Do you know if the glovebox is the same as in a 94?
If so how much
do you
> want for it?
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: dustin poos [mailto:vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 1999 9:31 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and
> drivetrain, and body
parts
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I have just
recently acqired a wrecked 1992 3000GT SL (67K
> miles).
> The car
is not worth rebuilding but there are plenty of
> useful parts
>
left on it. I have already installed the engine in my SL, so
> I have
a
> 67K 5 speed tranny for sale, two heads (non turbo, from the
>
blown
> engine in my SL), loaded passenger door(great red paint
with
> mirror),all the passenger side ground effects, rear bumper
>
and cover,
> the 3 tail lights, passenger side quarter panel and
quarter
> glass, non
> VR-4 spoiler, a couple good 16" factory rims,
and quite a
> few other
> minor items. If anyone is interested
contact me directly, I
> have no
> use for the items and will let
them go at a very low price.
>
> Thanks,
Dustin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
_________________________________________________________
> DO YOU
YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:33:40 -0500
From: "Michele Putman" <m.putman@worldnet.att.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: custom exhaust
Borla is fine but I read that the interior of
the exhaust goes bad or
begins to rattle before other after-market exhausts,
so I did some
research and found that the HKS Superdragger is a better
exhaust and I
have been extremely happy with the results. HKS is a
little more
expensive but has better longevity.
Just my .02
worth!
Chuck
'93 Stealth (BadAss) Why...'cause it rocks!!!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:02:40 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
turbo 101 [ yet again ] long
this is an attempted engineering analysis of
the turbo
size/flow issue. The numbers I'm using were posted by
others and
may not be correct --- it matters not !
The basic principle is
correct.
The three turbos talked about are ---- [ Approximate values
]
9B --- 300 CFM at 15 PSI
13G--- 365 CFM at
15 PSI
15G---400 CFM at 15 PSI
The key at this point is
that all three are rated at 15 PSI, our
1 BAR target boost level.
The
rating for the 9B implies that it can provide from 0 to 300
Cubic Feet per
Minute and still maintain a boost level of at least
15 PSI. It further
implies that for flow rates beyond 300 CFM the
pressure will not be 15
PSI. In fact if you exceed the rated flow
the boost will drop. How much
-- I don't know, although I'm sure
charts exist that cover its full
operational range.Similarly the
13g and 15 G are rated 365 CFM and 400
CFM.
The pressurized air created is routed to the intake plenum
via
the intercoolers [ more later ] and the throttle body. The
throttle
body cares not how this pressure was generated ---- it
doesn't
care if its a 9 B a 15 G or a six pack of gerbils on a
treadmill.
What the throttle body does care about though is CFM --- if
the
engine is demanding more than 300 CFM then the 9B cannot
provide that
amount of air at our 15 PSI target. The result ?? A
drop in boost pressure.
To get in excess of 300 CFM you need
a larger turbo!!
The increase in
the temperature of the air in the induction system
is primarily because the
air was compressed. Boyles law sez there
is a fixed relationship between
pressure, volume and temperature.
e.g. if you increase the temperature
in a fixed volume then the
pressure goes up. if you increase the
pressure in a fixed volume
the temperature goes up [ our case ]. If you
increase volume at a
fixed temperature then pressure goes down
etc.etc.
In our case some additional heating is caused by the turbo
housing,
being driven by exhaust it has to retain heat. additionally some
heat
is picked up as a result of the high heat in the engine
compartment.
The major source of heat however, is that caused by
pressurization
of air in the turbo --- again it makes no difference if the
pressure is
created by the 15G or our steroid enhanced gerbils. The job of
the
intercooler is to reduce the intake charge temperature and
thus
maximize the charge density.
Bottom line ---- It appears as
though our cars exceed the 300 CFM
level sence boost drops at high RPM with
the stock turbo.
The 9 B is fine as long as you don't need sustained
boost
of 15 PSI beyond the 300 CFM level. If you want 20 PSI
for
Autobahn speed runs then bigger is better. .
The ability to
calculate the flow rate based on displacement, RPM,
volumetric
efficiency,charge density etc. etc. probably requires
a suprecomputer
and is best left to the automotive engineering
folk.
Jim
------93 "arrest
me red" Stealth TT
-----
SSBC @ 1.0 BAR, K&N FIPK, Magnecore wire, NGK @
.034
G--Tech 0 --60 4.9 sec. 1/4 13.3
@
110
[ suspension mods next ]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:16:48 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
What's up
Dustin? Do you have the rear right light panel that acts as an
access
cover for the rear lights? If u do have it how much? And one
exhaust
tip=). It fell off my car a month
ago.
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt SL
3si#
224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:37:55 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body
parts
Dustin,
I need the passenger side outside door handle assembly.
If you are willing
to seperate it from the door, let me
know!
Thanks,
Jose Soriano
91 Stealth RT/TT
Amahoser@Linkline.com
go ahead and
e-mail me privatley
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:20:13 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
custom exhaust
In a message dated 3/17/99 10:33:20 PM Eastern Standard
Time,
m.putman@worldnet.att.net
writes:
<< Borla is fine but I read that the interior of the
exhaust goes bad or
begins to rattle before other after-market
exhausts, so I did some
research and found that the HKS Superdragger is
a better exhaust and I
have been extremely happy with the
results. HKS is a little more
expensive but has better
longevity.
Just my .02 worth! >>
Chuck, do u know if the
hks is made for NA?
thanks,
Larry A
94 3000gt
SL
#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:25:48 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
I might
let me see if the guy that might buy the door wants it. what
is it
worth??
Dustin
- ---Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com>
wrote:
>
> Dustin,
> I need the passenger side outside door
handle assembly. If you are
willing
> to seperate it from the door, let
me know!
>
> Thanks,
> Jose Soriano
> 91 Stealth
RT/TT
> Amahoser@Linkline.com
> go ahead
and e-mail me privatley
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:25:48 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
I might
let me see if the guy that might buy the door wants it. what
is it
worth??
Dustin
- ---Jose Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com>
wrote:
>
> Dustin,
> I need the passenger side outside door
handle assembly. If you are
willing
> to seperate it from the door, let
me know!
>
> Thanks,
> Jose Soriano
> 91 Stealth
RT/TT
> Amahoser@Linkline.com
> go ahead
and e-mail me privatley
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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YAHOO!?
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For
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:30:24 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Are you
taking about the grey panel inside the trunk???
I have it, how does
five dollars sound??
Dustin
- ---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> What's up Dustin? Do you have the rear right light
panel that acts
as an
> access cover for the rear lights? If u do
have it how much? And
one exhaust
> tip=). It fell off my
car a month ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> 3si# 224
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:30:24 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Are you
taking about the grey panel inside the trunk???
I have it, how does
five dollars sound??
Dustin
- ---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> What's up Dustin? Do you have the rear right light
panel that acts
as an
> access cover for the rear lights? If u do
have it how much? And
one exhaust
> tip=). It fell off my
car a month ago.
>
> thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> 3si# 224
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 00:32:16 EST
From: CHiLER555@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
5 dollars sound
very good. The only other part I'm interested in is one
Exhaust
tip. DO u have any left on the car?
Thanks,
Larry
A
94 3000gt SL
#224
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:33:04 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Notice
Just a short polite notice here folks;
PLEASE respond
privately to posted adds for parts, and do not post
that response back
to the list.
Thanks
Darc.... for the admin
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:39:07 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Howdy
and a question
Hi Darc.
How's things?
What was the
resolution regarding posting items for sale from private
parties? I
have some things I would like to get rid of and did post them on
3Si.org but
have had no bites.
What's the lowdown?
I should have my engine
back by the end of the week -- it is finally done!
Just waiting on injectors
and some other bits to arrive. Might have the car
running by the end of
the weekend or shortly thereafter.
Regards,
Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:46:57 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Yes I have
all four, If you are ready to get the stuff I will send it
COD, just give me
your address and exactly what you want.
Thanks, Dustin
- ---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> 5 dollars sound very good. The only other part I'm
interested in is
one
> Exhaust tip. DO u have any left on the
car?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> #224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 21:46:57 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
Yes I have
all four, If you are ready to get the stuff I will send it
COD, just give me
your address and exactly what you want.
Thanks, Dustin
- ---CHiLER555@aol.com
wrote:
>
> 5 dollars sound very good. The only other part I'm
interested in is
one
> Exhaust tip. DO u have any left on the
car?
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Larry A
>
> 94 3000gt SL
>
> #224
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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YAHOO!?
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:50:42 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Howdy and a question
Sorry folks, this was mistakeningly sent to the
list.
My apologies.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hi Darc.
>
> How's things?
>
<blah blah snipped>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:05:59 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Howdy and a question
Barry E. King wrote:
> Hi
Darc.
>
> How's things?
Not bad.
>
>
>
What was the resolution regarding posting items for sale from private
>
parties? I have some things I would like to get rid of and did post them
on
> 3Si.org but have had no bites.
Without going back and looking
at the darn rules (and I hate doing that) I believe you
are allowed to post
like this every couple of weeks . I believe the reason is to keep it
from
being a buisness site instead of the tec group it is. Nevertheless
it's nice to
see these items are available from my standpoint, rather than
hunting around for them.
Post them by all means, but ask for private
responses and save us the trouble of dialing
in the goofs who post back to
group asking prices, dickering publically, etc.
>
>
>
What's the lowdown?
As above.
>
>
> I should have
my engine back by the end of the week -- it is finally
done!
Bonus...dancing on the roof time!!!
> Just waiting on
injectors and some other bits to arrive. Might have the car
>
running by the end of the weekend or shortly thereafter.
I cann't imagine
your euphoria! Wish I was there to watch you take her for her first
run. Good
on ya!! Actually, I couldn't be much happier if it was me.
Best
regards
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:09:01 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Howdy and a question
OOOOPS!!
How the mighty have fallen.
I used the reply key thinking of course that I was replying
privately, so I
guess I owe a big appology here as well...mud on the face
time!
Darc
Barry E. King wrote:
> Sorry folks, this was
mistakeningly sent to the list.
>
> My apologies.
>
>
Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
Hi Darc.
> >
> > How's things?
> >
>
>
<blah blah snipped>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:32:41 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body
parts
dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me privatley so we
can
discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your email address does not come
up
thanks
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:20:26 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
sure my
address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com
- ---Jose
Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com>
wrote:
>
> dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me
privatley so we can
> discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your email
address does not
come up
>
> thanks
> Jose Soriano
>
Amahoser@Linkline.com
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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YAHOO!?
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 22:20:26 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, engine and drivetrain, and body parts
sure my
address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com
- ---Jose
Soriano <amahoser@linkline.com>
wrote:
>
> dustin, post us your e-mail address or reply to me
privatley so we can
> discuss this. When I hit "reply to all" your email
address does not
come up
>
> thanks
> Jose Soriano
>
Amahoser@Linkline.com
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 01:41:33 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
duplicate messages?
Anyone else getting two of some
messages? My emails from other locations aren't
being
duplicated.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 23:44:45 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3000gt interior, MODERATOR MESSAGE
> Do you know if the
glovebox is the same as in a 94? If so how much do you
> want for
it?
Please ONLY respond personally to Dustins email address and do not
post any
questions concerning his car here. His address is vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com.
Thanks,
Roger,
for the moderators
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 23:50:18 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: just a question????????????
> compression on a 6G72 TT engine
(8.5:1), to 10:1 using various parts
> from the NA engine, heads, cams and
such, it would increase power
> output.
... and kills your rings,
etc. No chance to get a healthy engine with high
compression and big boost
!
>... just to laugh is welcome to.
MODERATOR message
:
If you want to receive a laugh please subscribe to the other lists !
Please
re-read the rules for our list and you'll notice that no flames nor
"not
appropriate" comments are welcome.
Regards,
Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 02:16:32 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?
I need your collective advice..
I
may be selling my 91 VR4 this week, and know of a 95 VR4 that I could pick
up
for $18,000.. Here's the catch.. the 95 has 90,000 miles, and no
warranty.
However, it's a one owner car and was apparently maintained
religously. I know
to check for all the obvious things like 60K
service, oil changes, tranny
replacement(s), etc.. I also know a number
of you have some very high mile
cars, so I know they have the potential to
last a long time.
I guess what I'm after is, is this just way too many
miles for the money even
if it's in great shape? I haven't seen
the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
hours away, and want to make sure I'm not
wasting my time.. Is there anything
specific to 95 models that I need
to be aware of or look for?
I was actually planning on looking for a low
to average mile 94-96 over the
next 9 months.. should I
wait?
thanks..
Dave
91 VR4 (may soon be gone.. :(
but may be replaced.. :) )
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 05:04:45 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?
Dave,
My 94 VR4 has roughly
91,500 miles on it and it runs great. I bought the car with 54k
miles
on it and had the trans replaced shortly thereafter. I've yet to do the
timing
belt (money, shhh), and only recently changed the plugs and
wires. The plugs had opened
up to a gap of .045 or worse, and the car
stumbled under hard acceleration at times.
With the original plugs and wires
and only an air filter for mods, I was able to
consitantly run 13.60s while
slipping the clutch slightly, and even ran 13.3s while
dumping it and
spinning. The car now runs better than ever. Arty's 91 VR4 has
over
115k miles on it if I recall correctly, and he's run 11.41@124.32 with his mods. He's
running
23 lbs of boost and says his factory rings are the only problem now. The
stock
pistons are fine, and they are said to be one of the only weak links in
the 3000s
engine. If properly taken care of, I don't think the mileage
should be a big issue, but
don't hesitate to gather other opinions.
Also, that sounds like it's very close to NADA
retail value, not a steal, and
not a bad deal.
good luck,
Jason
Dave wrote:
> I need
your collective advice..
>
> I may be selling my 91 VR4 this week,
and know of a 95 VR4 that I could pick
> up for $18,000.. Here's the
catch.. the 95 has 90,000 miles, and no warranty.
> However, it's a
one owner car and was apparently maintained religously. I know
> to
check for all the obvious things like 60K service, oil changes, tranny
>
replacement(s), etc.. I also know a number of you have some very high
mile
> cars, so I know they have the potential to last a long
time.
>
> I guess what I'm after is, is this just way too many miles
for the money even
> if it's in great shape? I haven't seen
the car yet since it's about 1 1/2
> hours away, and want to make sure I'm
not wasting my time.. Is there anything
> specific to 95 models that
I need to be aware of or look for?
>
> I was actually planning on
looking for a low to average mile 94-96 over the
> next 9 months..
should I wait?
>
> thanks..
>
> Dave
> 91 VR4 (may
soon be gone.. :( but may be replaced.. :) )
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:24:56 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
custom exhaust
Don't get an HKS for a NA. It costs WAY too much! My 93
R/T sounds great
and has a noticeable power increase after I installed a
custom system.
Have an exhaust shop fabricate a 3" pipe from the catalytic
converter,
then Y it off into 2- 2 1/2" pipes and have dual ansa baffled tips
put
on the end. It sounds great-borderline obnoxious-but it does give
high
end power. You might need mufflers if you have inspection there, it
is
loud, but it sounds good. The 24 valve head breathes well, and
it
doesn't sound like a lawnmower.
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 09:10:02 -0500
From: "Andy Carberry" <acarberry@snet.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Final deal on Donnellye electronic mirror purchase
I just received the
finals on the mirror deal. I can get them
through my business for $160
+ S&H. If I can round up 10 people I can get
the price to $140 +
S&H.
I will be putting in an order soon so let me know if anyone else
is
interested.
Andy
http://www.donnellye.com/mirror.htm
They
have two mirror and they are priced the same. They are:
1. Auto
dimming mirror with compass and temperature
2. Auto dimming mirror with
compass and map lights.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 13:54:12 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> > Has anyone had experience with these pads?
> >
>
> I'm thinking about giving them a try and I'm looking for feedback
about
> > their performance, dust, etc.
>
> [ ... ] It is
very possible that not
> truely turning them and actually removing metal
may have contributed to
> the rapid wear of the pads.
Metal Matrix
pads lasted about 15k miles (mostly highway/Autobahn) on my
front stock
rotors, which were turned immediately prior to
installation. They do
seem to improve braking but wear out too fast and
do seem to create more
dust. My rotors also re-warped after only a few
high-speed stops (eg-
130 mph hard down to 70 mph) with these pads. Now
I'm back on stock
pads and am pretty disappointed. Might be time to
look into Roger's
Bremsa system...
BTW, I also have stainless steel lines, though they did
little more than
boost confidence (they are less prone to
failure).
Good luck... -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 16:32:29 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
Hi
Everyone.
The first day I drove my 3s, I discovered that the stock boost
gauge
would go ALL THE WAY UP, past 14 PSI..
Being worried, I
installed a GOOD boost gauge, and the max
I got was
Flash boost
.75 bar
Steady boost
.55 bar
Questions ?
Is this normal
?
Is it normal for the stock boost gauge to be THAT Off ?
Any possibility
to correct the stock boost gauge ?
Best
Henri
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:40:48 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
The stock boost gauge is pretty
much useless as a measurement of boost. On
my '94 the needle is pretty
much pegged at anything over 10 psi as measured
with an SPI gauge.
The
stock boost gauge calculates manifold pressure based on RPM and airflow
from
the MAS rather than measuring it using a MAP sensor. Consider it
a
nifty gadget to impress passengers and demonstrate that there is
indeed
boost present. Beyond that it is unfortunately just a novelty
display.
Correcting the stock boost gauge is not feasible since the
calculation is
performed by the code in the ECU. Besides that, it would
always be an
approximation, not a true measurement. You did the right
thing which was to
install a good aftermarket boost
gauge.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hi Everyone.
>
> The first day I drove
my 3s, I discovered that the stock boost gauge
> would go ALL THE WAY UP,
past 14 PSI..
>
> Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and
the max
> I got was
>
> Flash boost
> .75 bar
>
Steady boost
> .55 bar
>
> Questions ?
>
> Is this
normal ?
> Is it normal for the stock boost gauge to be THAT Off ?
>
Any possibility to correct the stock boost gauge ?
>
>
Best
>
> Henri
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:43:54 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: a 95
VR4 in my future?
I would not even consider
buying a VR4 with that many miles unless you
have an aftermarket warranty
arranged. Don't buy the car then start looking-
it's asking for trouble.
I bought a '91 3000GT SL that was absolutely immaculate -
doctor owned,
good records, barely even any dirt on the floormats - it had
90k on it. I
figured I would get a warranty after I shopped around and found
the best.
After all, the non-turbo 3000GTs have some of the best reliability
ratings of
all cars made (theis was 50% of the reason I bought the
car).
A couple weeks after I bought the car, the first and only
thing that I ever
noticed wrong with the car - it started "ticking" on the
way to work one
morning. 15 minutes later it was a loud knock. The engine had
suffered major
internal damage due to a cracked crankshaft - and I had not
purchased a
warranty yet. DUMB DUMB DUMB.
So to make a long
story even longer - if it looks like a nice car - buy it
AFTER getting a
warranty - you can not tell how long a car is going to last by
how well it
has been cared for - a VR4 is going to need major mechanical work
sometime
while you own it.
Steve C.
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 10:43:39 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
I heard if your replace
the stock boost gauge in the stock place you need to
replace all the
gauges. Is that true? I need a turbo timer for my car so
would it
be better for me to get the Blitz with the Boost gauge. Thanks for
any
info.
Joshua
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King [mailto:beking@home.com]
Sent: Thursday,
March 18, 1999 10:41 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Stock Boost Gauge : THAT
innacurrate ??
The stock boost
gauge is pretty much useless as a
measurement of boost. On
my '94
the needle is pretty much pegged at anything over 10
psi as measured
with
an SPI gauge.
> Best
>
> Henri
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 07:40:35 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Stock Boost Gauge : THAT innacurrate ??
>
>The first day I drove
my 3s, I discovered that the stock boost gauge
>would go ALL THE WAY UP,
past 14 PSI..
>
>Being worried, I installed a GOOD boost gauge, and
the max
>I got was
>
>Flash boost
>.75
bar
>Steady boost
>.55 bar
Sounds right to me --- I
bought a 93 stealth and had the same results
14+ on stock gage and 9 PSI on
an aftermarket gage. The stock gage
is apparently electrical and therefore
calculates the boost based on
engine parameters.
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 18 Mar 1999 08:00:10 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: a 95 VR4 in my future?
Dave wrote:
>
snip
>
> I was actually planning on looking for a low to average
mile 94-96 over the
> next 9 months.. should I
wait?
>
Hi Dave;
My 2c worth ( mutiplied by .62) is to wait
and find a lower mileage car. You obviously
love the breed, and I can
empathize with your thirst to get one soon...but patience is a
virtue which
does pay off in this hunt. There are those of us who drive it on
weekends,
garage it, wax it religiously, and smile at it. That's the
kind of baby you want. High
mileage implies wear and tear to all
mechanical/electrical components and the interior,
which normally has not yet
occurred on low mileage cars. Much of this wear can be
glossed over with good
detailing before sale, but it's still there. As an example,
there was a
94 for sale here recently with 87 thousand kilometers on it (that's about
45+
k miles) and they wanted $28 (multiplied by.62) for it. That's a year older
with
half the miles and probably could be had for the same price...so keep
looking.
Best of luck
Darc
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #127
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