--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #126
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest
Wednesday, March 17 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
126
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 11:08:23 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo 101
>>Larger turbos will flow
more air, and
>>are >capable< of more horsepower for a given
boost level, but this will
only
>>happen if your engine is capable
of flowing more air. I.E. 15lbs of boost
>>on an engine that
flows more air than stock, will make more horsepower
than
>>a stock
engine at 15lbs of boost.
Correct....
the reason is that the bigger
turbos will "beat" the air less. Thus the
compressed air will be
cooler...
And the cooler the air, the better
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 07:42:09 -0600
From: "Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo 101
>A) Aren't the turbos themselves a restriction
in the flow of air through
the
>engine? By using larger turbines
and larger compressors (which are less
>restrictive), more air should be
able to flow through the engine at the
same
>pressure, so more
horsepower can be produced at the same psi.
This
may be true. All I really wanted to stress is that you must
decrease
the engines resistance to air flow to get more horsepower at a
given
boost. If the engines resistance to airflow remains the same at a
given
rpm, a given boost pressure will always cause the same airflow.
It
is the boost pressure that drives airflow. I guess I should have
thought
this through a little better before posting. A larger turbo
will decrease
the engines resistance to airflow by allowing air to flow
easier through the
exhaust. However, it would be my guess the
resistance is substantially
larger in the engine internals (heads, etc) than
in the turbo. If this is
the case, the larger turbo would change the
overall resistance to airflow
only slightly.
>B) Larger compressor
wheels can move the same amount of air as the smaller
>turbo, while they
spin at a slower speed, causing less friction with the
air
>they are
pumping and perhaps less turbulence and heating of the air
before
it
>even gets to the intercoolers. Cooler air=more
horsepower.
Sorry, I stand corrected. I
forgot about the effect of heat. There
will definitely be a heat
advantage with larger turbos. The turbo gods will
have to answer how
much of an effect. I wonder if there is anyone who has
dyno'd a 3S at
the same boost pressure (one at which the stock turbos are
capable of
maintaining boost) before and after a turbo upgrade, with no
other
modification. It would also be interesting to take airflow
measurements
before and after a turbo upgrade to see how much it has
changed.
Brent
M.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 09:49:22 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Turbo 101 -
Chapter 2
I don't see how larger turbo's ALONE can increase HP. If I am
running 14 psi
on stock turbo's all the way to redline in all gears, and I
put in larger
turbo's and
run at 14 psi all the to redline in all gears NO
difference in HP. UnnnnnLess
the larger turbo's are delivering the 14
psi at a lower temp. to the IC pipes.
If this is indeed true, then the lower
temp will in fact deliver a denser air
charge
to the intake. This I can
see creating more HP. Now the question is how much
of a temp.
difference is seene between stock and bigger turbo's at the same
boost
level. Stage two would be increasing the cooling capacity of the
IC
system to lower the temp. at the intake, making more HP potentially.
Stage
three would be to increase the pipe size ALL the way from the turbo's
to the
engine, which would have to include IC piping, IC cooler connections,
Y pipe,
throttle body, intake plenum, and intake manifold. At the same
we need to
increasing the fuel delivery system to maintain a decent air/fuel
ratio. It
seems to me that increasing the pipe size all the way is close to
impossible,
so the next best way is to crank up the boost on the bigger
turbo's to acheive
a larger amount of air delivered, hopefully without
incurring too much of a
temp. increase. I would love to take a car through
all of the stages after
installing every possible recording device including
Tod Day Datalogger, EGT
probes, temp probes in various locations, air/fuel
ratio, psi, etc, etc. AND
have access to a AWD Dyno. Sorry for the long
post, but I would like to
understand the process instead of just tossing
money at it.
Dave 93 VR4 - Spring is coming :)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 10:35:12 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Pads
Anyone know the different types of Pagid brake pads ?
Where is a
good place to get them ?
Thanks - Dave 93 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 10:39:20 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Stock Fuel
Specs ?????
Does anyone know the stock fuel pump spec's ?
How
does the FPR work ? Is it boost dependent or is it constant.
Once
again, trying to understand basics before spending $$$$$$$$
Dave 93
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 08:50:24 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Stock Fuel Specs ?????
The stock fuel pump is rated at 180 lph @ 43
psi.
The FPR is boost dependant and set for roughly 1 psi of FP for each
pound of
boost. The stock FPR seems to top aout around 55 psi but some
people see
more or less then that.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Does anyone know the stock fuel pump spec's
?
> How does the FPR work ? Is it boost dependent or is it
constant.
>
> Once again, trying to understand basics before
spending $$$$$$$$
>
>
> Dave 93 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 16:50:28 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Stock Fuel Specs ?????
Hi I asked the same question a few
weeks ago and Bob Fontana gave me this answer:
Bob wrote:
Fuel
pressure changes as boost increases. The stock pressure regulator
increases fuel pressure 1 PSI for every PSI of boost. Pressure at idle is
43 PSI. When the charge air pressure in the intake manifold increases
(where the injectors happen to be trying to push fuel into) fuel pressure must
be increased correspondingly overcome manifold pressure.
So, if you are
using 20 PSI of boost, you want to be able to maintain 63 PSI of fuel
pressure. The stock FPR appears to be able to handle it pressure-wise, but
I'm not sure that the stock pump and injectors can supply enough fuel to match
the A/F ratio needed at 20 PSI.
As an aside, when the RPMs are increased
to over 3000, the shunt on the fuel pump is bypassed, increasing the voltage to
the pump which helps maintain pressure when not under boost. That's my
understanding from the manual, anyway. (Barry can probably give a far more
detailed description).
- -Bob
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dskull@aol.com <Dskull@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Tuesday, March 16, 1999 4:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: Stock Fuel Specs
?????
>Does anyone know the stock fuel pump spec's ?
>How
does the FPR work ? Is it boost dependent or is it
constant.
>
>Once again, trying to understand basics before spending
$$$$$$$$
>
>
>Dave 93 VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 12:10:07 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo 101, need help...
Dskull@aol.com wrote:
> I don't see
how larger turbo's ALONE can increase HP. If I am running 14 psi
> on
stock turbo's all the way to redline in all gears, and I put in larger
>
turbo's and
> run at 14 psi all the to redline in all gears NO difference
in HP. UnnnnnLess
> the larger turbo's are delivering the 14 psi at
a lower temp. to the IC pipes.
If I understand correctly, cfm is
just as important a factor as psi, and the two don't
go hand in hand.
From what I gather, a more restrictive system could account for higher
psi
yet not flow as much air, cfm, which would be a hinderance. This theory
is
supported by a previous post stating how many cfm various turbos can
flow. This raises
another question in my mind, wouldn't cfm be the
important measurement when thinking
about the fuel system? Wouldn't
more cfm=more air and a higher need for more fuel
regardless of the
pressure?
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 13:25:28 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Team3S:
Turbo 101 - Chapter 2]
>From general fluid mechanics: from the outlet
of the turbo, through the
IC, through the Y pipe, through the throttle body,
intake manifold, head
ports, around the valves and into the cylinders there
is a give amount
of drag created. The drag is created by the side walls--the
shape, size
and materials they are made of; intrusions into the air path
(valve
stems, etc) and turns in the path. I think everybody can agree on
that.
Now, given the drag there is a point at which, no matter how much
you
increase the pressure in the path, you will not be able to increase
the
flow through that path with temperature held constant. (Yes as
you
increase pressure to infinity there will always be some increase
in
flow, but the point I am talking about is when the increase in flow
is
so small for a given increase in pressure as to be considered
non
existent.) Everybody OK with that? (This is the concept that gives
the
most problem: if you graphed pressure=X vs flow=Y there would come
a
time when the graph would become, in essence, perfectly vertical.)
Now
what ever the flow is at that time lets call that the max flow. So
turbo
A will attain this max flow at some pressure, but turbo B, being
a
larger turbo, can attain this same flow at a much lower pressure.
As
someone mentioned here something comes into play, the higher
the
pressure the higher the heat. This is not a good thing and we must
add
IC to A to maintain that constant temp, but this will also increase
the
resistance so there is only so far we can go with this. The bottom
line
of this lengthy discussion is that I believe you would end up with
more
power from the larger turbo once it got up to RPM. You have to
keep in
mind that spool up of turbo A and B would be analogous to A
(smaller)
being 1st gear and B (larger) being 4th gear with regard to
the
mechanical advantage given to the energy imparted from the exhaust
to
the turbo with which to pump air. This becomes the final trade off
when
deciding how big of a turbo to use because, as we all know, turbo
lag
isn't considered a good thing either.
This can all be calculated
out; but, the mathmatics involved are
extremely complex because gases are not
pure fluids. They have
compressability; so, we can't talk about just flow
(notice my caveat
above). We have to look at the total number of gas
molecules which,
along with resistance, is proportional to the pressure and
temperature.
Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:23:20 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon
Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo 101
>>The turbo gods will have
to answer how much of an effect.
Well, I don't think I qualify as a Turbo
God, but I may have
an answer
>> I wonder if there is
anyone who has dyno'd a 3S at the same
>>boost pressure (one at which
the stock turbos are capable of
>>maintaining boost) before and after a
turbo upgrade, with no
>>other modification.
Well, sort
of....
I never dynoed a 3S, but I indeed did exactly that with my 300
Zx
(just for the fun).
Everything being corrected to standard
conditions, the power jumped by
a good 20%, at the same PSI. But keep in mind
that the Z exhaust is big
enough
to flow.
And keep in mind that the
measure was done on a dyno, where the car is
stationary,
so there
was no real good airflow to the intercoolers...
I know that on some 4
cylinders, WITH THE EXHAUST REMOVED, a "bigger" turbo
could yield to TWICE as
much air going through the engine....but if you fit
the STOCK
exhaust back
on the car, then it's possible that this "big" turbine couldn't
push
hard
enough to clear the exhaust.
>>It would also be interesting to take
airflow
>>measurements before and after a turbo upgrade to see how much
it has
>>changed.
Should be a direct correlation with the HP
increase.
And, BTW, that's the correct way of doing things. And that's
why these
"upgrade
charts" based on BOOST PRESSURE are getting it
wrong
I saw people replacing the stock turbos, thinking "if I use the
same boost,
then I use the same amount of fuel", while in fact they
were
maxing out their stock injectors, and experiencing massive
detonation.
Best regards
Henri
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:20:46 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Dumber than
a stump !
Ok, at the risk of showing my real I.Q. level I am still
perplexed about turbo
flow rates. In terms that I can comprehend
--- I gotta 2 in. IC pipe. Say
with a stock turbo it can pass 5 tons of
air a hour while running at 10 psi.
OoooooKkkkkkk, now I put a big ol super
turbo ( one of them there 15G thingies
) on and I run that big bad boy up to
lets say 10 psi. I still think (
because a stump is smarter than me)
that only 5 tons of air per hour will pass
through that 2 in IC pipe. Please
point me to the facts that show a bigger
turbo is gonna move more air through
that 2 in. pipe and I will be send in my
application to DENSA
asap.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 12:32:52 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel Pump upgrade (Walbro)
Maybe it's of interest for all who
want to step up to a better fuel pump on a
decent price. I don't know much
about the Walbro pumps but the price is very
good ! The flow is given up to
255 ltr/hr compared to our 180 ltr/hr stock pumpy
but you better check back
with the guy.
http://24.4.36.39/ape/fuelpump.html#overview
Remember
the GP ends at March 26.
I do have a DENSO pump ready for installation
and I was told it is a 90 gal/h
unit (price was around $400). This would
result in 341 ltr/hr and is really
high. Unfortunately, nobody was able to
tell me on what fuel pressure this is
measured and I beleive it is at 0 psi !
Therefore the figure will be lower at
43psi for
sure.
Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 17:01:48 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dumber than a stump !
LOL!
I dunno for sure, but
perhaps the key would be whether the stock turbo can flow more
air than the
pipe will alow. Perhaps the pipes can flow more than 5 tons an hour
and
then all you need to do is gives da pipes more air with bigger
turbos. Again, I'm not
sure, but I would think at some point the pipes
themselves would need to be bigger to
flow enough air as to not be a big
restriction. Maybe stock pipes would flow enough to
put on 356g turbos,
but if ya wanna go bigger you need bigger pipes to see the
advantage. I
would think that the first recommended mods would be to upgrade
restrictions
to allow benifit to be seen when upgrading other things.
Jason
Dskull@aol.com wrote:
> Ok, at the
risk of showing my real I.Q. level I am still perplexed about turbo
> flow
rates. In terms that I can comprehend --- I gotta 2 in. IC pipe.
Say
> with a stock turbo it can pass 5 tons of air a hour while running at
10 psi.
> OoooooKkkkkkk, now I put a big ol super turbo ( one of them
there 15G thingies
> ) on and I run that big bad boy up to lets say 10
psi. I still think (
> because a stump is smarter than me) that only
5 tons of air per hour will pass
> through that 2 in IC pipe. Please point
me to the facts that show a bigger
> turbo is gonna move more air through
that 2 in. pipe and I will be send in my
> application to DENSA
asap.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 17:04:38 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Pipe size
Doesn't pipe size determine velocity vs volume of
flow? A bigger pipe
will flow more volume but at a slower velocity. While a
smaller pipe
would increase velocity while reducing volume.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 14:36:36 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Antenna Problems
Guys,
I've got a problem: the
short of it is that 2 of the joints of my
power antenna seem to be really
sticky.
The long of it:)
The motor is fine, as is the relay (as
best as I can tell). This all
started when I noticed that under normal
operation, the antenna didn't go
all the way up (1 joint didn't
telescope). Being the perfectionist I am
when it comes to my car (I
know, I know if it ain't broke...but) I tried
"helping" to motor extend the
antenna by gently pulling on the antenna as
the motor was extending it(before
the relay cut it off), and got the antenna
to extend fully. It was
kinda dirty, so I cleaned it with alcohol, hoping
that that would get some of
the crap off of it. It did. Really black paper
towels...
Then the antenna would go down, but not all the way. I could
again
"help" the motor by lightly pushing on the antenna as it went down.
I
grabbed some silicone spray lubricant and wiped that all up and down
the
extended antenna. Stupid thing still won't go all the way up or
down on its
own. Worked on it for 30 minutes trying everything I
know...no cigar. I've
got it now so that when all the way retracted the
motor will extend it up
except for 2 joints, and can successfully retract it
from said position. I
think this doesn't hurt my radio reception that
much, but it really annoys
me. Any other suggestions for how to
fix this?
TIA
- --Erik
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:02:28 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
I feel like I'm getting the shaft
lately...
(no pun intended to those of you having tranny problems
;)
Ok, so I'm washing my car Sunday, and hitting the front bumper with
the
hose, or at least the water from it:) No pressure-washer, just
normal
trigger nozzle on the hose. There's a little black spot on the
bottom "lip"
of the radiator opening, and I, thinking it's a spec of dirt,
spray it with
the hose. To my dismay, it gets bigger! Mentally
thinking "WTF?!?," I look
closer...the paint was PEELING/FLAKING OFF!
Thus I stopped spraying it with
the hose (duh). Anyway, I've always
noticed (since I got the car last
March) little grayish spider-web lines in
the paint on the lower part of the
front bumper. Just assumed something
not to worry about (annoying, but not
worth repainting). But now...this
has me just a little tee'd off! My car
has been in service since July,
1995, so the paint doesn't even have 4
years' wear on it! What is
causing this? How can I stop it from
progressing and how do I repair
the damage? Please tell me that I don't
have to get the whole d@#$
bumper repainted/blended for mucho dolares! The
hole is about the size
of a quarter currently, and if it weren't threatening
to get bigger, I'd
probably be content to just use touch-up(in the interest
of conserving $)
paint since it's not an area of the car most people look at
anyway. It
just looks obvious on a white car to have a 1" black spot on
the
bumper. Argh!
About my car:
July 95-March 98 owned by
someone in Ohio. Drove it 29,600mi
March 98- present owned by me
and meticulously taken care of,
good condition when I got it, except needed
a new
clutch
complete clean/wax/restore/steam clean engine/etc
June,
1998
regular maintenance/cleaning since then
- --Erik
<slightly
frustrated>
P.S. Coming soon: results of using Arty's
engine cleaning method to get
rid of infamous ticking noise!
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
-
------
----------
"Richard does not know Mother Teresa, but he does know
me.
And that is the most humbling aspect of the doctrine of
the
Holy Spirit. Richard probably will never hear a voice from
a whirlwind that drowns out all questions. He will
likely
never get a personal glimpse of God in this life. He
will
only see me." --Philip
Yancey Disappointment With God
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:21:59 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: more turbo theory 101
Time to throw in my 2 psi...
Engine
power is directly related to the density of the air/fuel charge
in the
cylinder. In a normally aspirated engine the air charge is
sucked
in. In a turbocharged or supercharged engine it is pushed in.
Increasing the air/fuel density will provide more power (assuming
the
air/fuel ratio is already at optimum). The air/fuel charge density
can
be increased by: 1) reducing engine flow restrictions; 2)
increasing
boost pressure; 3) reducing temperature of charge; and
probably others
I forgot about.
Our engine will consume 3.0 liters of
air/fuel for every cycle. The
density of this air/fuel charge at 0 psi
is a lot less than at 15 psi or
21 psi. If someone does the math, one
could calculate the amount of air
in cfm required at lets say 7000 RPM at 0
psi, 15 psi, 21 psi, or any
desired boost level.
The main problem
with small turbos is that they can't provide enough air
flow at maximum
(7000) RPM at higher than stock boost. Also the
temperature of the air
charge is higher than would be in a larger
turbo. The main reason for
going to larger turbos is to provide the
required air (cfm) at your chosen
maximum RPM at your chosen maximum
boost. This will give you maximum
power over the entire RPM range.
On our cars, stock 9B turbos will
hold about 10 psi at redline. 13G's
will hold around 15?? psi at
redline, and 15G's will hold 21?? psi at
redline. (Perhaps someone can
supply real numbers for the 13G and 15G
turbos.)
Bottom
line: If you want to maintain a higher boost at redline, you
need
larger turbos. By reducing restrictions and lowering air/fuel
charge
temperature, you will get a higher charge density for a given
boost
level.
- --
Two wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts
do!
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 15:15:03 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, March 16, 1999 3:02 PM
To: 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'; 'Starnet 3Si
Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
<snip>
What is causing this? How can I stop it from
progressing and how do I
repair the damage?
- --Erik
<slightly
frustrated>
===========================
Erik...
The "spider"
effect you describe is usually caused by impact. I have some on
my lower left
bumper area where it connected with the ground as I slid off a
highway two
winters ago. Since the bumper skin is plastic, it tends to
"fracture",
resulting in cracks in the paint. With some cars, there's also a
paint
adhesion problem if the plastic parts haven't been cured properly, but
I
haven't heard of that with Mitsubishi's. I haven't had mine painted yet,
as
it really isn't noticeable unless you've got your nose on the ground
six
inches in front of the car (normally a poor position to be in).
Fortunately,
my paint hasn't peeled yet. My plans are for a show quality
paint job in
Y2K, if it started to peel today, I'd go for the touch up paint.
Good luck!!!
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl
White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored
and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:00:23 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
more turbo theory 101
> -----Original
Message-----
<snip>
> Our engine will consume 3.0 liters
of air/fuel for every cycle. The
> density of this air/fuel charge
at 0 psi is a lot less than at 15 psi or
> 21 psi. If someone does
the math, one could calculate the amount of air
> in cfm required at lets
say 7000 RPM at 0 psi, 15 psi, 21 psi, or any
> desired boost
level.
Just a clarification point here. Because it is a four
stroke, the engine
consumes half its displacement every revolution. You
stated every cycle by
which presumably you mean RPM x 2. This is just
for anyone who may be
setting down to do the math so they remember to divide
RPM by 2 to get
intake strokes. So, air consumption is (RPM / 2) x
displacement x + - / a
whole bunch of other terms that account air density,
vapor pressure, fuel
charge, turbo efficiency, i/c efficiency etc. etc. As
you say, it is
complicated.
<snip>
> --
> Two
wrongs don't make a right, but three lefts do!
> Ken
Middaugh
Here's a left to add to the
pile.
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 19:15:21 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: :
Autopower rollbar....
> That's about all the mutilation to the
interior.. other than that..
>the passenger seat will not recline at all
cuz of the diagnal bar..
>the driver seat is adjustable, but can't fully
recline either... the
>rear seats are virtually useless.. but u can sit an
adult sideways..
>hope this will help in ur
decision.
>
George-
Thanks; this is the info I
needed.
Regards, ptg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 19:47:27 -0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need
Cat-back and K&N filter and New Rims & Tires
This is a multi-part
message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE6FE5.D20E50A0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
1992 Dodge Stealth Rt Needs Your Imput!
Cat Back
Systems- Recomendations Please!
K&N or Another Brand-
Recomendations Please!
Home Depot Ram Air or Not- Recomendations
Please!
Wheels ( Really Want Chrome But) And Tires- Recomendations
Please!
- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE6FE5.D20E50A0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1992
Dodge Stealth Rt Needs
Your=20
Imput!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Cat Back Systems-
Recomendations=20
Please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>K</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000
=
size=3D2>&N or=20
Another Brand- Recomendations
Please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Home Depot Ram Air or Not- Recomendations
=
Please!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Wheels ( Really Want Chrome But) And Tires-
=
Recomendations=20
Please!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE6FE5.D20E50A0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 20:32:52 -0600
From: "CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" <cender@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Arty
Please contact me either today or tommorow about the 17"
wheels for
1991-1993 3/S cars.
If anyone knows Arty's full name,
please tell me... it would make looking up
his number much easier. I really
need to get rims soon... I messed up my
current right side ones by hitting a
pot hole.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:55:19 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Arty
arty's full name is on the 3000GT.com site under
fastest
- ---"CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" <cender@email.msn.com>
wrote:
>
> Please contact me either today or tommorow about the 17"
wheels for
> 1991-1993 3/S cars.
>
> If anyone knows Arty's
full name, please tell me... it would make
looking up
> his number much
easier. I really need to get rims soon... I messed
up my
> current
right side ones by hitting a pot hole.
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 18:55:19 -0800 (PST)
From: dustin poos <vr4_3000gt@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Arty
arty's full name is on the 3000GT.com site under
fastest
- ---"CEnder (Chris Chiasson)" <cender@email.msn.com>
wrote:
>
> Please contact me either today or tommorow about the 17"
wheels for
> 1991-1993 3/S cars.
>
> If anyone knows Arty's
full name, please tell me... it would make
looking up
> his number much
easier. I really need to get rims soon... I messed
up my
> current
right side ones by hitting a pot hole.
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 16 Mar 1999 22:46:50 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Paint Cracking and PEELING!?!?
It sounds like the front mask
was painted with standard lacquer and
not urethane with the elastomer to let
it stretch on the flexible
portion of the nose. Heating, cooling and flex is
cracking the paint,
which is brittle because it was intended for a rigid
surface. You
can't add elastomer after the fact, so I guess I bring bad news.
Hope
I'm wrong.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 17 Mar 1999 07:37:04 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: AWD dynamometer
Seems that Extreme Motorsports in Jessup, MD will
be installing an AWD dyno
in the next couple of weeks. Good news for
all of you people in that area.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #126
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm