--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #124
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Sunday, March 14
1999 Volume 01 : Number
124
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Mar 1999 21:30:53 -0600
From: "Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Factory boost gauge replacement with SPI gauge
Has anyone
replaced their factory boost gauge with an SPI gauge? How well
does it
mate to the factory mountings? Do you have pictures?
Brent
M.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Mar 1999 21:37:00 -0600
From: "Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
What mounting places,
other than using half of the radio double DIN, are
people using for their
boost controllers?
I remember seeing pictures of someone that mounted a
boost controller and
turbo timer in one of the center air vents. Does
anyone have a procedure
for this?
Any other good, easily accessible
mounting places? Please send pictures.
Brent M.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Mar 1999 22:56:47 -0500
From: Irving & Ana Jimenez <lt1power@crystal.palace.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
Brent & Tara
Maksymiw wrote:
> What mounting places, other than using half of the
radio double DIN, are
> people using for their boost
controllers?
Mine is in the Center Console , I think it one of the best
places if you are trying to
be indiscreet
And you don't want your car to
look modded .
just my .02 cents
Irving - 96
VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Mar 1999 23:02:38 -0500
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
>> What mounting
places, other than using half of the radio double DIN, are
>> people
using for their boost controllers?
I can tell you one place NOT to
mount it...under the dash.
My car had an EVC mounted under the dash when
I bought it...I thought
nothing
of it, until my accident. My leg hit the
EVC so hard it broke the top part
of the case. I was lucky not to have broken
my leg. The
underpart of the dash is specially designed to absorb
impact; don't put
anything in the way of safety engineering's less obvious
designs.
Robyn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 00:30:54 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
You can mount an AVC-R
and a Turbo timer within the vent, but you will
have to sacrifice the ability
to close the vent off. There's a picture
of it at my website.
www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/8889
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Mar 1999 23:39:51 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: 3S CD :)
Dear Vineet,
After having the CD now for a week I
must say it is well made and helpful !
Thanks :)
BTW, people found
some of their pictures and designs on your colored pages,
including me (the
brakes). Please keep in mind that each picture is copyrighted
by the owner
and it is not allowed to use them in any way without the permission
of the
owner. They also do NOT belong to 3si.org as mentioned on the page, as I
only
allowed them to use it on the page WITH refering to my homepage.
I do not
have a problem with the picture because I really like how it looks, I
love
it. But, whenever you use others pictures please let them know so they do
not
look angry when they notice this.
Regards,
Roger,
Switzerland
(currently in San Francisco)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 13 Mar 1999 23:52:59 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 3S CD :)
Friends, I'd like to apologize for my
quick-mouse-click-send-to-the-list
mistake. This email was meant to be
private to Vineet and there is absolutely no
point that has to be discussed
here. Therefore, please do not respond to the
message, thanks.
A big
soory again for my mistake,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 09:20:42 -0600
From: Ken Taft <kentaft@cwix.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
This is a multi-part
message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BE6DFB.EF073B40
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Has anyone purchased this cd manual from alldata.com. I
am looking for =
repair manuals for my stealth that cover interior as well as
exterior =
and engine and all.
Can anyone tell me if this cd covers enough
and is it worth the 24.95
=
Price.
=
Thanks Ken Taft
-
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BE6DFB.EF073B40
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Has
anyone purchased this cd manual =
from=20
alldata.com. I am looking for
repair manuals for my stealth that cover =
interior=20
as well as exterior
and engine and all.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Can anyone tell me if this cd covers enough and is =
it
worth=20
the 24.95
Price.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2> &nbs=
p;  =
; =
&=
nbsp; &n=
bsp; &nb=
sp; &nbs=
p;  =
; =
=20
Thanks
Ken Taft</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BE6DFB.EF073B40--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 10:40:45 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Soft
clutch pedal problems
My '91 vr4 is having some clutch inconsistencies.
About every 20th shift the
pedal moves through about 1/3 its stroke with
virtually no resistance before I
feel the normal pressure buildup. Releasing
the clutch pedal engages the
clutch very early - just after I start to let
out the clutch pedal. Normally
the clutch doesn't completely engage until I'm
near the end of the of the
clutch pedal stroke.
If I recognize the
clutch pedal feeling soft before I go full stroke on the
pedal movement I can
regain normal clutch resistance by pumping the pedal
through the soft zone
several times. It is one of those frustrating
intermittent things - I get
normal operation 99% of the time. Seems to happen
only after the car is
warmed up.
I've been watching the fluid level in the clutch fluid
reservoir - doesn't
seem to be moving. If I am loosing clutch fluid it is
happening so slowly I
haven't seen it yet. Maint. records indicate master and
slave cylinders were
both replaced mid. 1997 in an attempt to fix poor
shifting (before the
transaxle was replaced). It is hard to imagine a failure
of one of these items
within two years...
I'm probably going to take
the car in and have the clutch system bled. Anybody
have any experience with
this sort of thing? Appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks
Paul
Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 10:42:47 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Alldata
repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
The AllData CD is not nearly as
complete as the factory manual. Not worth
buying in place of the real thing.
Good only as a quick general reference.
Arty 91 VR-4
<< ubj:
Team3S: Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
Date: 3/14/99
10:22:54 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: kentaft@cwix.com (Ken Taft)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Has
anyone purchased this cd manual from alldata.com. I am looking for
repair
manuals for my stealth that cover interior as well as exterior and
engine and
all.
Can anyone tell me if this cd covers enough and is
it worth the 24.95
Price.
Thanks Ken Taft
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 11:09:12 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Soft clutch pedal problems
It sounds like this is the right thing to do
for starters. It sound as
though you may also be having problems with
the master or slave letting
fluid bypass the piston. Since these were
replaced recently and no
fluid is showing up where it doesn't belong, air in
the system is the
most likely culprit. I have bled my system from the
slave cylinder
which is almost directly below the throttle body. You will
probably want
to bleed it until you have completly displaced the old
fluid. You
should see a color difference in your catch jar when the new
fluid
reaches the bleeder. (Clutch and brake fluid is water soluble and
water
in the system can be bad for the metallic parts.) You might want
to
look into speed bleeders for this and the brake cylinders. Check out
http://www.speedbleeder.com/. This can
make bleeding a one person job
instead of a two person job. Ken
Middaugh (on this list) suggests:
"Install a 10mm x 1.0 Speedbleeder bleed
screw for $6.50, part # SB1010.
I use Valvoline's new synthetic DOT 4 in
clutch & brakes. It's boiling
point is over 500 degrees and a big
bottle cheap, < $5 or maybe < $10."
Regards,
Lynn '92 ES 3/SI
#0232
Klusmanp@aol.com
wrote:
>
> I'm probably going to take the car in and have the
clutch system bled.
> Anybody have any experience with this sort of thing?
Appreciate any
> suggestions.
>
> Thanks
> Paul
Klusman
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 15 Mar 1999 10:55:24 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mounting places for a Boost Controller
A good place to mount
boost controllers, turbo timers, etc. is in the
center counsel armrest.
The part in front of the removable cup holder
tray. There is even a
small cutout that can be removed from underneath
to run the wires
through. I like this location for three reasons. First
it keeps
everything out of view from possible thieves, second it keeps it
out of
direct sunlight which might hurt the screen, and last nobody can
accidently
change settings by bumping it.
Del
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
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call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 13:23:34 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Question for the highyl intelligent on turbo vs. super charging
I
was talking to some people and I was curious if anybody on here had
ever
thought if switching out their turbos for a supercharger. I know
we are
limited on space but wouldn't the benefits be better? Wouldn't
it be faster
even then the most upgraded turbo? It gives a constant
power instead of
just after a certain rpm. Any info would be greatly
appreciated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 12:40:15 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Alldata repair Cd Manual's ( Popular Mechanics)
Ken Taft
wrote:
> Has anyone purchased this cd manual from alldata.com. I
am looking
> for repair manuals for my stealth that cover interior as well
as
> exterior and engine and all.Can anyone tell me if this cd
covers
> enough and is it worth the 24.95
Price.
Ken,
I bought an
ALLDATA CD from Auto Zone for my Jeep
Wrangler(although I think the CD has
the Stealth on it too). In my
opinion, it is the biggest ripoff scam
ever marketed. You have no idea
what it's like until you get it home,
and tehy wouldn't take it back
because I was dissatisfied with it. I'm
on the verge of using mine for
a coaster to set my drink on. It's
difficult to navigate, and not that
helpful when you do find what you
need.
My opinion, Don't buy it. It's a waste of
money.
- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 12:38:45 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question for the highyl intelligent on turbo vs. super
charging
The problem with superchargers is that they need the engine to
do the work
of spinning the unit. Since turbos use a byproduct
(exhaust), they are
more efficient. When you install a 200hp supercharger
you get 100-125
usable hp. This is due to the strain that the engine
is under due to
turning the supercharger. They are also a bit more
expensive then turbos.
If you ask a "new" muscle head .. the ones
putting supercharges on there
mustangs, most will tell you that they would
rather have a turbo (which
they now make for mustangs). As for powerband ...
It is nice to have a
preset RPM=xboost . But as far as racing
goes, our turbos kick in at 3000
RPM's ... If your ever below 3000 RPM's and
someone is racing you... your
not racing :)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Joshua [SMTP:joshua@princelaw.com]
Sent:
Sunday, March 14, 1999 1:24 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
Team3S: Question for the highyl intelligent on turbo vs. super
charging
I was talking to some people and I was curious if anybody on
here had ever
thought if switching out their turbos for a supercharger.
I know we are
limited on space but wouldn't the benefits be better?
Wouldn't it be
faster
even then the most upgraded turbo? It gives a
constant power instead of
just after a certain rpm. Any info would be
greatly appreciated.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 12:55:43 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny question.
On the side of the tranny that faces the
passenger side wheel, there is a
drain plug. Above the drain plug
about 12 inches is a hole. It seems to
have a shaft that spins
inside. Is there supposed to be a cap on the end
of this hole?
When I have the engine running I can put my hand up there
and feel it
spinning. Is this right? I know it's supposed to spin (duh)
but
this is where my tranny fluid seems to be coming out. Maybe I'm
missing a cover \ cap?
Brian
93 VR-4
RedLine fluid spitting
tranny mod
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 14:40:36 -0500
From: Bryan Schwieg <schwieg@ibm.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tranny question.
- ------
=_NextPart_000_01BE6E28.A7759240
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Brian,
there is a black cap on the back of the trans. It would be facing =
the pass.
tire. This black cap has a o-ring, so if missing you'd =
definietly leak
fluid. It's about 2" in diameter. Inside is the rear =
gear assem. and would
be spinning with the car running. If missing, try =
Frank at Kormax, they
seem to have used trans. around, they might have =
one.
-
----------
From: Brian Danley[SMTP:bcdmad@concentric.net]
Sent:
Sunday, March 14, 1999 12:55 PM
To: 'team3s'
Subject: Team3S: Tranny
question.
On the side of the tranny that faces the passenger side wheel,
there is =
a=20
drain plug. Above the drain plug about 12 inches is
a hole. It seems =
to=20
have a shaft that spins inside. Is
there supposed to be a cap on the =
end=20
of this hole? When I have
the engine running I can put my hand up there =
and feel it
spinning. Is this right? I know it's supposed to spin
=
(duh)=20
but this is where my tranny fluid seems to be coming out.
Maybe I'm=20
missing a cover \ cap?
Brian
93 VR-4
RedLine
fluid spitting tranny mod =20
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
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------ =_NextPart_000_01BE6E28.A7759240--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 13:38:37 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Factory boost gauge replacement with SPI gauge
>Has anyone replaced
their factory boost gauge with an SPI gauge? How well
>does it mate
to the factory mountings? Do you have pictures?
>Brent
M.
Brent,
the factory boost gauge is integrated with the water
temp and oil pressure
gauges. So if you replace one you will have to
replace all three. In order
to get access to the gauge assembly you
need to remove the dash. I am in
the process of doing just this.
I am replacing the gauge assembly with
Autometer gauges. I will post
pictures when I'm done.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 14:56 -700
From: travisblanchard@sprintmail.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Question for the highyl intelligent on turbo vs. super
charging
in regards to the supercharger vs. turbo-i have a
supercharged mustang
that i would turbo charge in a heartbeat if i could find
some one to buy
my supercharger. turbocharging is a little more diffucult but
well worth
the extra trouble for the power you can get out of
it.
my 2 cents
worth
Travis
94
laser awd
looking for stealth/3000 gt
tt
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 15:04:21 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Using spacers on wheels good/bad?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com [mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, March 12,
1999 7:58 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
stealth@starnet.net
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Using spacers on
wheels good/bad?
Any recommendations on using spacers on drag
wheels.
Is this a definite no no?
Arty 91
VR-4
=================================
Arty...
Some say "no" to
spacers under any condition. The shop manager where I have
my engine work
done says "they're fine, provided you have at least 3/4" of
thread left to
engage on the stud". I think the risk is related to cornering
and lateral
forces, where less threads engaged on the lugnuts/studs create
the risk of
shearing the remaining threads and causing a wheel to come loose
at high
speeds.
I have a set from JC Whitney (aluminum, 5/16" thick) that were
less than $10
each. I'm still trying to decide what to do about tires and
wheels so I
haven't used them yet.
Personally, I'd say you're in
little danger running the 1/4 mile.
Sounds like you've got the beast
apart. Drop me a line privately some time,
let me know how the project is
going. BTW...I still have the pictures for
you, just haven't made it to the
post office.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 15:16:09 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: K&N Oil Filters
What is the exact oil filter part# for the
3000GT ??
One parts shop told me HP-1005 another HP-1004 ... what's right
?
Thanks,
Roger
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 16:57:00 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: K&N Oil Filters
Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> What
is the exact oil filter part# for the 3000GT ??
>
> One parts shop
told me HP-1005 another HP-1004 ... what's right ?
>
>
Thanks,
> Roger
I just put one on last week and it was a
HP-1004.. As I recall, it seemed
that model year didn't matter..
they were all the same application..
sidenote: I just experienced
the unintended loss of acceleration mod..
the y-pipe blew off the
intake.. of course, it happened to be while I
was giving someone a ride
to impress them.. and of course I didn't figure
out what had happened
until after they left.. sigh.. :)
Dave
91 VR4
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 19:32:40 -0800
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Crankshaft advise
A few general and not so general
comments:
All engines are designed to keep clearance between crank
(con-rod bolts) and oil level.
Oil pans are designed such that even when your
car is overfilled with oil (say 1/2 quart
over) and you are climbing a 5%
grade (this is more pertinent to longitudinal engines)
the crank will clear
the oil.
If the crank did hit the oil in your sump, a drastic drop in
power output would result.
Imagine swinging a golf club as hard as you can
through air, then do so hitting water,
your arms will feel the
difference. As soon as a crank contacts the oil, the oil will
begin to
aerate, effectively raising your oil level (the air submerged in the oil
as
small bubbles displaces other oil, raising the oil level), encouraging
further
aeration. In severe cases, this can progress until your oil
aerates beyond 15% (drop in
specific gravity) leading to engine failure
(especially at higher engine speeds) as
critical components starve for oil
for lubrication and heat removal. Some 4x4 readers
may have experienced
this if they brought the vehicle beyond a safe limit while crawling
over
boulders.
Don't worry (unless you overfill your sump), Mitsubishi
engineers designed the oil pan
with enough volume to keep the oil away from
the crank. Baffles are added to keep oil
at the oil pickup and to keep
oil from contacting the crank under severe maneuvers
(slalom and panic stops
are worst).
> Many designs rely on splash oiling for bottom
end
> lubrication.
The bore walls are the only bottom end component
that rely on splash. All others have
direct oiling from main
galley. (Another common splash lubricated component on engines
are
timing drive chains - but the 3.0L uses a belt drive)
A windage tray
reduces windage by keeping the oil away from the turbulent environment in
the
crank case. The crank creates turbulence in the crankcase as do the bay to
bay
pressure differentials caused by the pistons moving up and down
(excessive blowby can
also contribute). A windage tray attempts to keep
the oil in the sump as well as the
oil returning to the sump away from these
turbulences. By doing so, oil aeration is
minimized and the effective
density of the air residing by the crank is reduced. The
lower you can
keep the density near the crank, the better. (many dry sump
systems
actually place a vacuum on crankcase to better scavenge the oil and
to reduce the air
density, allowing the crank to spin more freely). The
knife edge crank also frees up
some power by making it easier for the
counterweights to slice through a given air
density easier. ("Hank the
Crank" bases his Nascar crankshaft business on this
principle). It is
important to note that all windage trays must allow oil to pass
through them
so oil that falls from the mains and rods can return to the sump.
> A
windage tray should work equally as effectively in the 6G72 as in any
>
other engine so long as it is designed to clear the crank, but it won't
>
replace the benefits of a knife edged crank, however small or large they
may
> be.
Not necessarily true, properly designed trays can reap
big benefits on high revving wet
sump engine. Ideally, you would want
both knife edged crank and a windage tray.
Packaging on the 3000GT/Stealth
makes windage tray design particularly difficult.
Whereas you can modify
cranks on virtually any engine and reap the benefits (just be
careful to keep
the crank balanced with the reciprocating mass - piston, pin, and small
end
of conrod) Another power saver not mentioned yet are scrapers which remove
the oil
from the counterweights as they sweep by.
In review, when
properly designed, the following will always free up power:
Dry sump -
remotely locates oil from crank & convienetly allows a vacuum to be placed
on
sump. And for you racers, this will allow a shallower oil pan so you
can drop the
engine and maintain ground clearance if the oil pan was the
lowest part.
Windage tray - attempts to separate the crank from the sump and
oil returning to the
sump resulting in less oil in the air near the
crank. Windage tray also reduces oil
aeration.
Knife edged crank -
will use less power to rotate through a given density of air/oil
Scraper -
removes oil clinging to crank and rods which in turn lowers the crank
inertia
(this will not necessarily free up power but allow the engine to
accelerate through the
rpms quicker)
I'll stop here in fear of boring
you. Comments welcomed.
Joe Gonsowski
92 TT Stealth
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 14 Mar 1999 23:01:27 -0600
From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: :
Autopower rollbar....
>> Can you or someone describe for me how
much
>> "mutilation" to the stock interior would be
necessary
>> to install this roll bar? Thanks for any
input.
>The rear speakers gota go!
Wow! That's a
pretty heavy price. What else?
Regards, ptg
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #124
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