--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #120
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Tuesday, March 9
1999 Volume 01 : Number
120
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Mar 1999 19:52:54 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Need new brake rotors & pads
I've had KVR cross drilled rotors on my
'94 for over a year and am very
happy with them. Combined with KVR
carbon metallic pads, these rotors have
worked very well. The pads are
prone to producing more dust than stock if
that is a concern, but I think
that will be the case with most pads that are
more performance than street
oriented. They tend to squeal a bit until
warmed up (goes away
after the first few stops) and work best when hot.
They easily haul the car
down from 140+ without noticable fade. More
importantly, the rotors
don't seem to warp. My stock ones warped after
every high speed slow
down causing all sorts of unnerving shuddering and
shaking. They'd go
back to more or less normal after another high intensity
stop. Go
figure. Anyway, I haven't had the KVRs on a road course so I
don't know
how well they'd hold up under continuous abuse.
I don't know how they'd
be on the smaller rotors of a pre-94 though, but
based on the improvement
over my stock rotors and pads I don't see why they
wouldn't work. KVR
also sells slotted rotors. The price was great too. I
think
someone else on the list may have had some trouble with their KVR
rotors, but
mine have held up very well. The ones I received are cast iron
so they
do show surface rust like all cast iron rotors do, but cast iron is
great for
stopping power.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
>
> Well it is time for new front rotors &
pads for my '91 VR4. I want to
> upgrade without going into the
$1000+ realm. I do plan on attending
> road course track events two
or three times a year. I may use a street
> pad most of the time and
use a race pad at the track, or just use a race
> pad all the time.
All advice & recomendations
welcome.
<snipped>
>
> Thanks in
advance,
> Ken
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Mar 1999 23:55:37 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
Roger Gerl wrote:
> With your stock
setup and K&N you're 1/4 would be low 14 to high 13 and his is
> in
the 12's. So you had no chance.
>
> > By the way, I'm at ~59K
right now, the water pump, timing belt, and all of
> > that stuff has
already been replaced, but my plugs have nearly 60K on them.
>
> The
usual 60k service should contain the plugs. Replace them now and gap
them
> around 0.034 for your future boost of around 14.2 psi. Then install
a good boost
> controller of your choice to go to this
level.
>
> With this mod you'll have a good chance to go into the
lower 13's region but you
> have to get familiar with the new behaivour
the car first :)
The only thing I disagree with is 1/4 mile
times. I have a 94 VR4, essentially
identicle to the 95. With 88k
miles on my original plugs and wires, and only a Weapon-R
filter I was able
to run 13.64 with 'quick slip' launches. With dump clutch launches
I
ran 13.36@102.54, my 60' was 1.963
because I was spinning. I'm confident that I could
have run 13.2 with a
better launch. I've now gutted my cats, and added NGK plugs and
Accel
wires, I'm hoping for high 12s. I no longer feel the stumbles I fealt with
the
original plugs and wires, and for good reason. My plug gaps had
opened up to .045 or
worse.
Next time someone challenges you to a
race, you pick the course and specifics, or
atleast come to a
compromise. It's amazing how quickly Mustang owners shy away from
races
on wet road courses. It's very common and most annoying when my friends
with
Mustangs challenge me to a race, then want to dictate how it will be
done. Sounds like
he was a nice guy, but he took away your biggest
advantage, and his biggest disadvantage
by wanting only a roll start.
It might have been surpisingly close had you done a true
1/4 mile run,
especially being that it's gonna be most difficult for him to launch
perfect
every time.
Better luck next time,
Jason
p.s. Wonder what
you could do with a VR4 ($45k) plus $25k, for a total
of
$70k................
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is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Mar 1999 22:05:06 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Smoked by a ZR1
A properly driven ZR1 can pull off low 12s, but getting a
decent launch on
street tires on normal asphalt is kind of tough. And
yeah, the rollon
definitely gave the ZR1 the advantage but even then 1 second
(or more) over
the 1320' is a big difference. The ZR1 guy evidently
knew this it seems. I
think the VR4 would have had a fair chance of
beating the ZR1 for maybe an
1/8th but I'd have to give the nod to the ZR1
stock for stock over the
1320'. They are damn fast cars with more HP
and fewer pounds.
A modified VR4 is a whole other ball game...your VR4 +
25K would put the ZR1
on the trailer no problem, even with snoozing at the
wheel if you so chose
;)
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> The only thing I disagree with is 1/4 mile
times. I have a 94
> VR4, essentially
> identicle to the
95.
<snip>
> Better luck next time,
>
Jason
>
> p.s. Wonder what you could do with a VR4 ($45k) plus
$25k, for a total of
> $70k................
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 00:14:08 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: What
class would 3/S cars run in?
If you would like to back me i would gladly
do it, especially since i am not
to far from sebring or daytona
8)
Xannieria
3SI #130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 00:37:20 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Smoked by a ZR1
Yeah, I wasn't suggesting that he probably
would have won, might not have been so one
sided though :P
"Barry E.
King" wrote:
> A properly driven ZR1 can pull off low 12s, but getting
a decent launch on
> street tires on normal asphalt is kind of
tough. And yeah, the rollon
> definitely gave the ZR1 the advantage
but even then 1 second (or more) over
> the 1320' is a big
difference. The ZR1 guy evidently knew this it seems. I
>
think the VR4 would have had a fair chance of beating the ZR1 for maybe
an
> 1/8th but I'd have to give the nod to the ZR1 stock for stock over
the
> 1320'. They are damn fast cars with more HP and fewer
pounds.
>
> A modified VR4 is a whole other ball game...your VR4 +
25K would put the ZR1
> on the trailer no problem, even with snoozing at
the wheel if you so chose
> ;)
>
> Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 07:45:56 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
What class would 3/S cars run in?
William Lynn Larsen wrote:
> what
class would 3/S run in at sanctioned race?
> basic question: why don't see
3/S cars running sports car races/24hrs
> Daytona or Sebring etc?
other
> DSM cars in them, all cars mentioned as competition for
>
ours, why no 3KGT/Stealth?
Because there are few if any classes for AWD
cars;
turbo cars with 3+ liters; ours are heavy with little part
availability
and no factory race effort (unlike Porsche, BMW, Ferrari,
Chevrolet,
even Toyota/Supra). I checked rules for 24hrs Daytona and it
LOOKED
like it would not fit in any class. I could be wrong.
A
Stealth DID win in class at Pike's Peak Hillclimb some years back, and
it MAY
have been 2 years; Ed Arnold Racing's car; it is green, and can
be seen in
TEC Turbo Company advertisements in Turbo Magazine (a shot
from above, has a
3000 wing on it).
Haven't really seen Supras either.
Jack
T.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 08:05:03 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Spark plugs
I noticed that Chien at Nexus is selling spark plugs
in 1,2, or 3 ranges
colder than stock. Does anybody on this list use
colder plugs? I noticed a
comment on his web page about colder plugs
more prone to fouling in rich
conditions. Since a VPC with 550
injectors (my current setup) are already
prone to fouling plugs, would
it be recommended to use colder plugs?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 08:23:54 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Spark plugs
A colder plug than necessary will tend to foul more readily
under varied
conditions like street driving. For race applications the
colder plug can
stave off detonation a bit IF the stock heat range needs to
be changed in
the first place. A colder plug where it is not needed is
not good and can
rob some power.
I have a set of one range colder
plugs which I intend to use at the rare
track event, but for street purposes
I run the stock plugs. I tried one
range colder last year and did not
like them for the street. They tended to
crap out puttering about town
unless the car was being run hard.
BTW, did you notice the price of those
suckers? $150 for a set
of
plugs...ouch.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I noticed that Chien at Nexus is selling spark
plugs in 1,2, or 3 ranges
> colder than stock. Does anybody on this
list use colder plugs?
> I noticed a
> comment on his web page about
colder plugs more prone to fouling in rich
> conditions. Since a VPC
with 550 injectors (my current setup)
> are already
> prone to
fouling plugs, would it be recommended to use colder plugs?
>
>
Thanks
>
>
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 10:27:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Spark plugs
That's what my local dealer wanted for a set of OEM
plugs. Needless to
say, I hopped in my car and drove up the road and
got 'em for MUCH less...
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Experience is
something you don't get until just after you need it.
On Tue, 9 Mar 1999,
Barry E. King wrote:
[snip]
>
> BTW, did you notice the price of
those suckers? $150 for a set of
> plugs...ouch.
>
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 09:07:43 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Spark plugs
Yeah, stock heat range NGK double platinums can be had for
less than $10
ea., but that's usually from large distributors. Some
places want $15-20
for them it seems.
A local dealer actually sold the
second last set to me for $66. Not bad.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> That's what my local dealer wanted
for a set of OEM plugs. Needless to
> say, I hopped in my car and
drove up the road and got 'em for MUCH less...
>
> Dennis
Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
>
> Experience
is something you don't get until just after you need it.
>
> On Tue,
9 Mar 1999, Barry E. King wrote:
> [snip]
> >
> > BTW,
did you notice the price of those suckers? $150 for a set of
> >
plugs...ouch.
> >
> [snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 10:07:02 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: What class would 3/S cars run in?
At 07:45 AM 3/9/99
-0600, you wrote:
>William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>> what class would
3/S run in at sanctioned race?
>> basic question: why don't see 3/S
cars running sports car races/24hrs
>> Daytona or Sebring etc?
other
>> DSM cars in them, all cars mentioned as competition
for
>> ours, why no 3KGT/Stealth?
>
>
I think a base
3000GT is eligible for the American Classic (?) series of
sedan road races
sponsored by Motorola. The races have showroom stock cars
in two classes:
Class I has vettes, vipers, 911s, and Saleen Mustangs;
Class II has FWD cars,
like Hondas and stuff. I'm not sure which class the
3000GT is in.
As I
recall, one ran in the series early last year, but I haven't seen it
since.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 09:00:53 PST
From: "Chris S." <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Eibach Springs
Does anyone know if Eibach lowering springs for
the VR-4/TT will fit on
the Spyder VR-4? I know they should but I
wanted to make
sure.
Thanks,
Chris
______________________________________________________
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Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 09:44:08 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Need new brake rotors & pads
> I've had KVR cross
drilled rotors on my '94 for over a year and am very
> happy with
them. Combined with KVR carbon metallic pads, these rotors have
>
worked very well.
So where do you buy KVR from? I could find
anything on the web.
- --
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 12:50:58 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Spark plugs
A repair shop told me they paid $23 ea for them at the dealer
and I have
never been back! Maybe I was too quick to
judgement.
Regards,
Lynn #0232
Barry E. King
wrote:
> Some places want $15-20 ea for them it seems.
>
>
>Dennis Moore wrote:
> > That's what my local dealer
wanted for a set of OEM plugs. Needless
> > to say, I hopped in
my car and drove up the road and got 'em for MUCH
> > less...
>
>
> > On Tue, 9 Mar 1999, Barry E. King wrote:
> >
>
> > > BTW, did you notice the price of those suckers?
$150 for a set of
> > > plugs...ouch.
> > >
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 12:33:31 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads
Has anyone had experience with
these pads?
I'm thinking about giving them a try and I'm looking for
feedback about
their performance, dust, etc.
Thanks,
Mark
Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Development
Phone: 957-3736
Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 10:48:22 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Big tires, Eibach Springs, & struts
Sorry I'm violating the
one topic per post rule, but they are related
enough.
Summary:
Firehawk 275/40/17 will not rub struts on stock 17x8.5 46mm
offset rims, even
with 1" lowering with Eibach springs. Slight rubbing
will occur on the
inner splash guard at full wheel lock though.
The Lowdown: Last
month I needed to replace the tires on my '91 VR4
with stock 46mm offset
rims. I solicited information from all lists
about max tire sizes on
stock rims. A couple of posts/replies stood
out. Shawn Dewey
replied that he was running Firestone Firehawk SZ50
275/40/17 on stock rims
on his '93 VR4, and Bob Fontana posted that he
has Goodyear Eagle GSC in the
same size on his stock '93 VR4 rims.
Based on their success, I got Firehawk
275/40/17 installed at a local
dealer (prices almost as good as Tire
Rack's). I had them install one
tire on the front right first and they
drove around in fast circles in
their parking lot. When they took the
tire off, we noticed the slight
rubbing on the inner splash guard that Bob
mentioned, as well as very
slight rubbing on the strut's spring perch.
I had them mount all 4. I
heard no rubbing and I don't drive in tight
circles at full wheel lock (
I normally go to lock and back off a little,
still get around tight
corners).
Two weeks ago, I replaced my struts
since I suspected that they were the
cause of some suspension clunking I was
getting over sharp bumps. They
had 89,000 miles on them! Way
overdue! While I was there, I decided to
replace the springs with
Eibach's Pro-Kit. When I removed the old
struts, I didn't notice any
more rubbing on the spring perches, and no
visible wear on the tires
either. With the new springs and the car
lowered an inch, the camber is
a little too negative on all corners. I
figured I'd leave the extra
negative camber for my visit to the track,
and get an alignment
after.
Last Saturday I went to Holtville for an uncompetetive Track
Time
event. Man was that a blast! (I used up my fairly new
Stillen Metal
Matrix brake pads in half a day). I wanted to check the
tire clearance
after the most aggressive driving so I pulled off the front
tires.
There was absolutely no rubbing on the new struts! Also, when I
get it
aligned to spec, removing the excess negative camber will pull the
tire
further away from the strut.
Conclusion: Perhaps the new
strut is different with the perch in a
slightly different location, or
perhaps the old perch bent closer to the
tire after so many miles.
Also, a small spring drop should be an
advantage since removing the added
camber will move the top of the tire
away from the strut (I'll report after I
have an alignment performed).
Ed Fein had solicited info from folks
running 275's on stock rims, so
add me to the list!
1. Year, make and
model of car '91 VR4
2. Brand and model of tire Firestone Firehawk SZ50,
275/40/17
3. Rubbing, if any, and severity No rubbing on outer fenderwell,
no
rubbing on new struts. Slight rubbing on inner splashguard
4.
Misc. info Eibach Pro-Kit 1" lowering springs
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 11:33:25 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Axxis/Stillen Metal Matrix Pads
Hi Mark,
>
>
Has anyone had experience with these pads?
>
> I'm thinking about
giving them a try and I'm looking for feedback about
> their performance,
dust, etc.
I put the Stillen Metal Matrix in the rear half a year ago,
and in the
front last December. They felt really good for driving on
the street.
However, I went to the track this last Saturday and they only
lasted
half-a-day of hard braking. They seem to stop well from 80 mph
street
stops but were a little prone to fading on the track from
110.
Note: When I replaced the front pads, I tried to turn the
rotors. The
mechanic measured them and they were at the minimum width
so they
couldn't be turned again. He was able to put on the finishing
'scratch'
cut though so they cleaned up real nice. It is very possible
that not
truely turning them and actually removing metal may have contributed
to
the rapid wear of the pads.
- --
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 15:45:39 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: The scoop on roll bars
I ordered my Autopower roll bar from Alex
at OG racing (thanks Ed). It will
be here in about 3 weeks. Some
interesting info:
The bar, as shipped from Autopower does NOT meet NHRA
rules since the rear
legs bolt to the main hoop. NHRA requires the legs
to be a solid piece of
steel. We will need to have a bead welded around
each leg to get it to
comply. Also, we MUST buy and install the
diagnonal bar (5th point) as well
as the removable cross bar.
The
material used to make the main hoop is called "ERW mild steel, 120
(.120")
wall, 1.75" diameter". (If you can say that really fast, you'll
sound
like you know what you're talking about). According to NHRA
techs,
minimum requirement is .118". We should be okay with .120" mild
steel.
Total is $402 + $90 shipping. It is shipped via
semi-trailer, so make sure
you have a way for the truck to turn
around.
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 17:24:46 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Correction on roll bar
Alex of O.G. Racing just called me with
this update:
ERW steel has too much of a thickness variance. NHRA
will fail roll bars
that use ERW steel when put to the sonic thickness
test. Therefore, we need
to specifically order DOM (.134") mild
steel. NHRA will also require an
inner sleeve (which is how the
Autopower bars come) when welding your
joints.
Total is $440 + $90
shipping. It is shipped via semi-trailer, so make sure
you have a way
for the truck to turn around.
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 16:28:42 -0600
From: "Todd D Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Spark plugs
I run 1 set colder (7's) on the street without
problems
and 720's but living here in the middle of nowhere
allows me to
'open it up' as soon as I leave the house.
Running copper NGK's also drops
the price to about
$1.20 each but I did have to special order them
since
non domestic car parts are so difficult to find in my area.
Pulling
them after a few miles indicated little or no fouling
but that may be due to
my 'driving habits'?
- - tds
-
----------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King <beking@home.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 09, 1999 9:22 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Spark plugs
I have a set of one range colder
plugs which I intend to use at the rare
track event, but
for street purposes I run the stock plugs. I tried
one
range colder last year and did not like them for the
street. They
tended to
crap out puttering about
town unless the car was being run hard.
BTW, did you
notice the price of those suckers? $150 for a set of
plugs...ouch.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 18:13:21 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Summit Racing Import Catalog
I just received my Summit Racing
catalog supplement for import cars. There
are actually items for 6G72
motors in there! Here are some prices for
comparison:
Blitz DSBC
.................. $497
Blitz Turbo Timer ........... $108
Blitz Turbo
Timer harness .... $25
Blitz Super Sound BOV ....... $200
Blitz BOV hard
spring ....... $16
Accell Wires ................ $65
-
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 15:49:06 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Jackstands and a 3000GT
Hi guys,
Interesting bit of info to
pass on:
First of all, no one is dead;)
No, really, I put the
front of my base 3000GT up on jackstands for the first
time this weekend -
partially just so I could remove the Firestone oil
filter that had been
installed with exactly 208.67 ft-lbs of torque. I know
I should be shot
for ever going to firestone, but I was in a hurry and I was
in the middle of
moving, so I couldn't change it myself. But anyway... I
printed
out the pictures from John Adams' web page and went hunting for
the
locations... I looked and looked and looked for them near the
1st
crossmember where the central jacking point is...obviously, I didn't
find
them. Eventually, I did - to the rear of the front wheels!
(actually
almost vertically under the base of the windshield). Here's
the interesting
thing: maybe the weight balancing is different (I think
it is) between a
base and VR-4, but with the jackstands in those locations,
as I lowered the
floor jack(on the central front jacking location), it still
had weight on it
after the jackstands had made contact...as I brought the
front bumper down
another 3 inches or so, the floor jack still had weight on
it. Then I
noticed that it was raising the rear of the car.
Carefully, I lowered it
some more, watching for any sign or tipping forward
uncontrollably. It
stopped, but not until the rear of the car was about
3-4" higher than
normal. I know with the jackstands in this position,
almost the entire
engine compartment is in front of the jackstands, so some
rotation about the
jackstand contact point was expected, but how much is
normal? 3-4" seems a
bit excessive to me. The car was completely
stable and supported, but I
imagine this put a lot of stress on the frame
around where the jackstands
were. Is this ok? Just
curious...
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi + bald tire mod
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 17:11:27 -0800
From: "Ryan Peterson" <ryanp@crcwnet.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Jackstands and a 3000GT
Hmm, should be ok since the factory
scissor jack point is also behind the
front wheels. Even so, you may be
closing in on the center of gravity. I'm
sure a stupid question, but
are sure you're on the frame and not the
suspension?
On my SL, I
normally set my front jackstands on the very front crossmember.
Not sure if
that's accessible on a VR4. My rear stands go under the rear
trailing
arm support. Very stable. It's been up like that for the last
6
months. Probably stay there until 2K.
Ryan P
Erik
wrote:
I know with the jackstands in this position, almost the
entire
engine compartment is in front of the jackstands, so some rotation
about the
jackstand contact point was expected, but how much is normal?
3-4" seems a
bit excessive to me. The car was completely stable and
supported, but I
imagine this put a lot of stress on the frame around where
the jackstands
were. Is this ok? Just curious...
-
--Erik
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Mar 1999 17:39:23 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Summit Racing Import Catalog
Definitely more expensive than other
ones we all know.
No quotes/answers from dealers/resellers please
!
> Blitz DSBC .................. $497
> Blitz Turbo Timer
........... $108
> Blitz Turbo Timer harness .... $25
> Blitz Super
Sound BOV ....... $200
// Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Mar 1999 21:22:49 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Need new brake rotors & pads
Check out http://www.kvrperformance.com/
They
also advertise in Turbo and possibly SSC.
I found them to be very helpful
and honest business people. They honored a
blind claim from me for
damaged rotors and pads, no questions asked, no
cross shipping
nonsense. Highly recommended.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> > I've had KVR cross drilled rotors on my '94
for over a year and am very
> > happy with them. Combined with
KVR carbon metallic pads, these
> rotors have
> > worked very
well.
>
> So where do you buy KVR from? I could find anything
on the web.
>
> --
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General
Atomics
> San Diego
> (619) 455-4510
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #120
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