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From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #118
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest          Sunday, March 7 1999          Volume 01 : Number 118




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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:14:31 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Calculating injector size

RC Engineering's  web site ( http://www.rceng.com/ ) under Technical
Information has some calculations concerning   HP and flow rates you may
want  to check out.  They are also a great  source of   information if you
want  to call them at 310-320-2277.

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, March 05, 1999 8:38 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Calculating injector size


>Hrmm, I would look into the 620CC injectors.
>
>I know I was at 100% injector duty cycle @ 16psi.  With 550's.
>
>> Brad


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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 10:12:09 PST
From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Speed Bleeders and 3/S CD

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

Is the URL for those nifty Speedbleeders. They are located about 7 miles
from my house, and I just went there and picked up a set when I
installed 3000gt SL brakes on my talon. They work GREAT and I would
recommend them to anyone that doesn't have a honda :P.

Anyone get the 3/S CD yet? Any comments? I'm dying here! :)

Vineet Singh
DSM & 3/S Manuals on CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 10:42:57 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed Bleeders and 3/S CD

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Vineet Singh [mailto:billi_gates@hotmail.com]
> Subject: Team3S: Speed Bleeders and 3/S CD
>
> Anyone get the 3/S CD yet? Any comments? I'm dying here! :)
>
> Vineet Singh
> DSM & 3/S Manuals on CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org


Guys,
I got the CD manuals yesterday in the mail, 6 days after I sent in
the order.  Everything went flawlessly, and the CD is very well done.  As
far as anyone who does mods or maintenance on their car, this should be
their first "mod" (else s/he should be flogged with a wet noodle).   Even
though I have the paper manual (honestly, I do!), this is far more useful
since it's searchable and you can blow up the diagrams, no matter how small
they are in the manual.  Now I have to get another computer to put in my
garage:)  Nice job, Vineet- you kick a#$.

- --Erik
- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
- -------------------------------------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 14:40:01 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: 3/S decal

What is the turn around time for the 3SI decal and whatnot after sending
in you $8??

Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 19:34:16 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: street race shift point

Bob Fontana wrote:
>
> Even though the torque curve might be flattening out or even
> dropping, you want to find the point where, when you enter the
> next gear, the new torque equals the amount of torque in the
> previous gear at the instant you shifted.

james berry wrote:
>
> according to the dyno runs done by our European affiliates
> torque starts to drop at about 5000 RPM and HP flattens at
> 5500 or so.  Shifting at these points puts me in 2nd at a
> little under 3000 RPM --- not a good acceleration range.

In my experience, 3000 RPM _is_ a good acceleration range.  Torque is as
high at 3000 RPM as it is at 5000 RPM and higher than it is at 5500!  I
normally shift at 5500 RPMs and it pulls very strong in the next gear (6
speed).

-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 22:31:36 +0100
From: lehir@genesiscom.ch (Genesiscon Lehir)
Subject: RE: Team3S: street race shift point

> So the question is --- what shift point is the best compromise between
> torque, HP and turbo spoolup??

I can compute it out.

I need to know the specs of your car, HP, torque, gearbox (5 or 6), and any
mods you may have done...

Anyway, I'd think that the best shiftpoint from 1st to 2nd is extremely
likely to be redline (7000 rpm)

Henri

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 13:46:06 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: 17" rims on a '95 base 3k

Ok guys, I have a question for yall, especially anyone who may have done
this.

I'm considering putting the stock 17" rims from a '91 VR-4 on my base 3K if
they will fit properly.  I'd be putting 245/45/ZR17's on the rims, and I'm
wondering if the offset is correct and if there would be any rubbing on the
struts or wheelwell.  My car is completely stock and has stock mudguards.
Anyone done this or know definitively that the front steering/frame is the
same for all models?  I know the SLs started having 17's in '97, and I don't
think there were any major changes mechanically then.  My thinking:  if 97's
didn't have ECS and mine doesn't, and the mechanics are basically the same
between mine and a '97SL, the 17's should fit on my base model.  Then
there's the question of whether the offset is the same between the '91 17"
VR-4 alloys and the '97+ 17" SL chromies.  Answers, please?

- --Erik
- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
+ soon to be non-resonatorless for reasons explained earlier
- -------------------------------------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 16:51:13 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: street race shift point

I redline 1 and 2 and 3 gets a little earlier like 65 , 6600

Xannieria
3SI #130

PS: No its not turbo 8)
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Mar 1999 16:54:03 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Roll Cages?

Sorry again...

OGRacing carries AutoPower, but apparently doesn't list specific
applications on their website, or in their catalog for that matter. Call
them at 1-800-934-9112, ask for Bob - he's the guy I talked to.

   -Ed

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Gonsowski [mailto:twinturbo@mediaone.net]
Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 12:18 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Roll Cages?


I too am in the market for a roll bar.  A four point cage to be exact for my
'92 TT to
meet the
requirements for the 130mph class in the Silver State Classic (Nevada -
September).  I
want
a cage with two rear kickers and a horizontal cross bar to attach a five
point safety
harness.

Fein, Edward wrote:

> Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our cars. Try OGRacing
> (http://www.ogracing.com) - I got a quote of just over $400 from them for
> one.

> That's just over $400 for a road-race _bar_, not a full cage. Full cages
will run you
> more, obviously.

I was not able to locate a listing for 3/S applications anywhere.  Does
OGRacing make
custom
cages upon request?  I know some 3/S cars have competed in the past at high
speeds
including
John Hennessey (most known for his Viper Venom packages) who topped out at
187 mph.
Many
of you may recall that John used to cater to 3/S cars several moons ago.

I just want a tasteful cage that doesn't tear up my interior.  Any insight
would be
appreciated.

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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Mar 1999 20:36:42 -0800
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: street race shift point

Bob Fontana wrote:

> you want to find the point where, when you enter the next gear, the new torque
> equals the amount of torque in the previous gear at the instant you shifted.
>
> 240  255  270  285  310  300  260
> 4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500 7000
>         |<------------------->|
>

One point to add to the above analysis is that you need to factor in your transaxle
gearing.  Bob's statement that you want torque before shift to equal torque after
shift is correct but remember that your changing your torque multiplication when
you shift.

Hypothetical example:  Car makes 200 ft lbs at 6000 rpm in first gear (3.00 gear
reduction).  Torque is then 600 ft lbs.  Now lets say second gear is 1.5, this means
your new engine speed will be 3000 rpm.  If the car happens to make 400 ft lbs at
3000 rpm, you've made an optimum shift.

1st to 2nd shift
200 * 6000 = 400 * 3000 = near optimum shift

If your before and after torques are not equal, you either shifted to soon or to late.

Several generalizations were made above, but this hopefully gives you a better idea
of optimum shift points.  Because gearing isn't linear, the optimum shift point will
be different for every gear.  Most cars would benefit with a shift at red line in at
least
first gear, since first gear is so low (numerically high), unless torque drops way off
before then or if second gear is close to first (example 1st gear = 3.0, 2nd gear
= 2.4).  You really need to perform a dyno run to get your shift points for each gear.

If you're one of the lucky ones who have had their cars dynoed, simply take your
torque curve and graph torque at the wheel vs vehicle speed for each gear.  The
points where each gear crosses the other would determine your shift point.  Shifting
in this fashion will put the highest torque available at all times to the road, and give

you the fastest times.  (It is fairly simple to calculate engine speed if you know your
gearing, tire size, and vehicle speed)

As I said earlier, there are other variables to consider:  such as it takes a  finite
amount
of time to shift during which you decelerate, falling off boost, etc.  Most of these
tend
to favor staying in gear slightly past the optimum point.

Hope some of this made sense.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 6 Mar 1999 08:52:01 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil on my transfer case

IT could be coming from anywhere.  It can be blown all over.  I found the
same leak in mine  (motor oil dripping down from the x-fer case).  It was a
bad rear main seal.  $530 at Mits.

Brain

- -----Original Message-----
From: Klusmanp@aol.com [SMTP:Klusmanp@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 04, 1999 10:29 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Oil on my transfer case

Changing oil the other day I discovered that oil has been collecting along
the
bottom of the transfer case. My partner in crime, Dave Trent, commented
that
it looked like it was coming from somewhere near the top rear of the engine
bay - the transfer case being the lowest point for the oil to flow before
it
drips away. Next day I had the transaxle and transfer case fluid checked at
a
tranny shop - both full. Makes sense since the transaxle and transfer case
were replaced under warranty about 1 1/2 years ago.



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Mar 1999 19:37:15 -0500
From: Del A Kolasinski <pearlvr42c@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: Removal of factory air conditioning

A friend and I are looking into yanking out the A.C. system in order to
shave a few unwanted pounds.  I havn't started yet but through working on
his we have hit a snag.  We have removed everything except for the
condensor.  It seems that it has to stay in there as it has a pulley on
it that turns an accessory belt.  Does anybody know of a way to bypass
this pulley without hurting anything? Maybe shorter belt(s) a dummy
pulley that will fill in when the condensor is gone?  Any ideas would be
great.
Thanks,
Del Kolasinski
PEARLVR42C@juno.com
wisc.dsm.org

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #118
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