--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #117
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Friday, March 5
1999 Volume 01 : Number
117
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 08:44:02 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Brake caliper saga continues...
No, i haven't driven it. I
will today. Last night after work, i installed
the caliper, and bled the
brakes. Today at lunch i'm putting my rear cat
bypass pipe in and then it
will be road worthy. I guess i'll find out if
removing the rear cat and
installing a Trust exhaust does anything for
power. Then i'll move on to
fabricating a down pipe.
Wayne
At 07:25 PM 3/3/99
-0500, you wrote:
>
>
>[Brian Danley] So have you driven
it yet? How are the calipers?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 08:44:50 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: More brake info....
Speaking of bleeding, i installed Russell
"speed bleeders" while my caliper
was being replaced. At first i thought it
was a gimmick, but now that iv'e
used them, i'll never use anything else.
These things are amazing. Open the
bleeder, pump it slowly about 6 times, and
close it, boom.......you're
finished (after repeating on all corners, of
course). The part number is in
my car, i'll pass it on when i have time....
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 07:37:01 -0700
From: "Tracy, Austin" <austin.tracy@rez.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Speed bleeders
Wayne, I have heard good things about these speed
bleeders, and have been
wanting to get a set for my car. Where did you
get them, how much did they
cost, and what size did you
get?
Thanks
Austin T
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: Wayne
>
> Speaking of bleeding, i
installed Russell "speed bleeders"
> while my caliper was being replaced.
> Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 08:59:27 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Speed bleeders
I was a Beta tester, you might say, so they
were free. I think they cost
$10ea., or $10 for 2. They come in packages of
2. The size for 3/S cars is
10mm x 1.0.........although they wont work on the
rear calipers of cars
produced between 3/92 and 5/93. For some reason, mitsu
used 7mm bleeders on
these rear calipers. They will work on the clutch slave
also, finally an
easy way to bleed the clutch!! I think the part number is
3956, but like i
said, i'll pass that on when i make it back over
there....I'm sure they can
be purchased from anybody that sells Russell
stuff. (summit, jegs, etc.)
Wayne
At 07:37 AM 3/4/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>Wayne, I have heard good things about these speed bleeders, and
have been
>wanting to get a set for my car. Where did you get them,
how much did they
>cost, and what size did you
get?
>
>Thanks
>Austin T
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 10:59:02 -0500
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake caliper saga continues...
Brad,
You are absolutely right and
I think electrical stuff is the worst. If
you get a starter or an alternator
from a discount place that has a
lifetime (or long) warranty, I swear to God,
they take the cores, dip
'em clean, hit them with a shot of paint and box 'em
up. They let the
customer sort them out. I started buying only
top quality electrical
parts when I bought the 5th starter for my mustang and
the wire to one
of the brushes was completely broken in two. I was replacing
twice a
year it seemed, but I though it was ok because of the warranty.
BUT,
your effort, time and inconvienence is worth something too.
Brad
writes:
"You know, this problem isn't just an "Auto Zone" problem.
It is a cost
cutting problem.
When you cut costs to have a product "cheap"
you give up quality from
some
place. In this instance, it is
customer service and boxing problems.
Consider yourself lucky you have a
caliper that doesn't leak.
I have worked in the Automotive aftermarket
for 12 years now. This is
normal in discount parts places. When
penny pinching, expect these
problems."
Regards,
Lynn
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 11:52:42 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Roll Cages?
I know Turbo Harry has a custom one in his
car...
Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our cars. Try
OGRacing
(http://www.ogracing.com) - I
got a quote of just over $400 from them for
one.
-Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Booker [mailto:mrbook@gate.net]
Sent: Wednesday,
March 03, 1999 10:51 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Roll Cages?
I was reading the latest turbo magazine, and the
article with Adam
Saruw.....whatever was interesting, and he said that his
roll cage
stiffened the car up enough that once the suspension was adjusted,
his
60' times went from 1.65 to 1.30. Does anyone have a roll cage, and
or
has anyone thought of having one put in?
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 11:11:13 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Racers
I want to get a race team going to get some publicity.
Currently I am
trying
to get a car entered into the Pike Peak Hill
climb. I don't think you need a
license for it but im not sure if you don't
know about this race ill give
you a
little history. The hill climb is a
race to the top of pike peak. The
starting
line begins at I believe 9000
feet. The finish line ends at 12000 feet all on
dirt
through mountain
roads. It is an international event and racers come from
all
over the
world to compete. Its a true test to car and driver. Right now I
have
one
person interested in taking this challenge. His car has been fully moded
with
the suspension upgrade and all necessary performance mod. Anyone
who
competes in this events will be directly competing against the big
names
like
Toyota, Ford and Chev to name a few notice manufactures.
They race all
their
experimental stuff and hire professional drivers to
drive for them. But
don't
worry they have different classes of racing so
you would be put in the
appropriate category. Last year I talked to the race
official about entering
in
a vehicle and they were more than willing to
help. Let me know if your
interested in something like this.
Shawn
Dewey wrote:
> At 11:47 AM 3/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
> > Does
anyone on the list have a racing license? If so are you interested
>
>in using it?
>
> I have an SCCA national competition license and
my racing season is just
> about to get into full swing again here on the
east coast.
>
> The team is also in the process of putting a team
together to run the
> inaugural 12 hours of Summit Point Endurance Race.
Details can be found on
> the Washington DC, Region of SCCA's web page at
www.wdcr-scca.org
>
> The
event will be held on the weekend of June 4,5,6 later this year.
>
>
As always I encourage anyone interested to come out to see some REAL
racing
> where the cars make left and right hand turns (where 1320' is
only getting
> you started for a run at the front straight at Summit
Point). Anyone that
> comes down will be put to work right away as crew
members if you are
> interested. =:o
>
> BTW, my 3KGT
does 140 mph easily just riding around while showing students
> "the
line".
>
> -shawn dewey
>
> '91 Stealth R/T nonturbo
15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy hands of a new owner!)
> '93 3000GT VR4 12.98
@ 107 mph
> '91 Talon TSI AWD 13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right!
:)
> '95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car (SSC class)
> http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO
80202-2994
Voice: (303) 624-1358
Home: (719)
573-7649
Fax: (303) 624-1288
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 11:21:22 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Sorry Misdirected Post
Sorry for my previous post? It was supposed
to be a direct post not a
group one.
- --
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 13:11:13 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Racers
At 11:11 AM 3/4/99 -0700, you
wrote:
>Currently I am
>trying to get a car entered into the
Pike Peak Hill climb.
Hoo, boy...that will be a rush.
I suspect the
twin turbo VR4 might be competitive in a stock class, because
the turbos will
make up for the loss of power at the altitude, and the AWD
will help in the
gravel.
If they stick the 3800 lb VR4 into the same class with much
lighter,
rally-prepared AWD turbo cars such as the Subaru (Impreza?) you
haven't got
a prayer.
I don't think you need a
>license
for it
I think you do, but any pro license will do (I think), such as
Colorado
Hillclimb Assoc, SCCA Pro Rally, etc.
The finish line
ends at 12000 feet all on
>dirt >through mountain roads.
Yep.
With a VR4, you should be able to hit 120+ on some of the straights.
Problem
is stopping from that speed. The ABS should help, but be sure to
upgrade the
brakes.
>one person interested in taking this challenge. His car
has been fully moded
>with the suspension upgrade and all necessary
performance mod.
The suspension upgrade may be in the wrong direction:
i.e., if he lowered
the car, this will not do. You need ground clearance and
suspension travel
for Pikes Peak. You'll also need a bash plate under
the engine and trans
to protect from rocks. A sheet of 1/4 in. T6 aluminum
will probably do,
since you won't be encountering tree
stumps.
>But don't worry they have different classes of
racing so you would be put
in the
>appropriate category.
Like I
said, the VR4 in a stock class might clean up. If you go
modded,
you may
be in trouble because of all the lightweight rallye
cars..
Good luck. Keep us posted!
Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 13:23:23 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Speed
bleeders
you might check any pep boys. should find them near the exhaust
section
along with other engine dressup stuff, if the store is laid anything
like
what it is in philly. kind of expensive though... if i recall, it was
$14
for 2
omar
> Wayne, I have heard good things about these
speed bleeders, and have been
> wanting to get a set for my car.
Where did you get them, how
> much did they
> cost, and what size
did you get?
>
> Thanks
>
> Austin T
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 11:30:29 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Power Steering Fluid?
Hey Guys,
Anyone have
recommendations for power steering fluid? Manual says
A/T Dexron II
fluid, but I don't think they make that anymore...can I use
any non-Honda
fluid? Synthetic/Blend? Brand?
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
-
------
----------
"Scripture does not teach science, period. Genesis tells us
what happened in the archaic, pre-scientific idiom of the
ancient
Hebrews. It does not tell us how it happened. We can
learn what we can about
that "how" from science, always
keeping in mind that there can be no real
conflict between
two very different orders of knowledge: science and
theology."
--George Sim
Johnston "The Pope and Evolution"
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 14:52:20 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Roll Cages?
Woops, I mis-wrote...
That's just over $400
for a road-race _bar_, not a full cage. Full cages
will run you more,
obviously.
-Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Fein, Edward
I know Turbo Harry has a custom one in his
car...
Autopower actually makes bolt-in cages for our cars. Try
OGRacing
(http://www.ogracing.com) - I
got a quote of just over $400 from them for
one.
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 15:56:43 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: And the magic number is........
#3956 (Russell speed bleeders)
Approx. $12 per pair.....
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 16:59:23 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Power Steering Fluid?
Redline Synthetic Power Steering
Fluid.
Redline actually makes a specific full-synthetic power steering
fluid, which
is compatible with our cars. I've been using it since October -
it actually
tightens up steering feel a hair over whatever stuff had been in
there for
the past 60,000 miles. The only down side is my steering pump
complains when
I turn to full lock in reverse while the car is completely
cold.
Got mine from OGRacing, http://www.ogracing.com
-Ed
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik
Hey
Guys,
Anyone have recommendations for power steering fluid? Manual
says
A/T Dexron II fluid, but I don't think they make that anymore...can I
use
any non-Honda fluid? Synthetic/Blend? Brand?
-
--Erik
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 21:03:57 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: VR-4 interference engine?
I think the necessity for a
security code is incase the power is ever cut going to the
radio, such as
when resetting the ecu. If it has the factory radio, a double
din
tape/cd changer controller/eq, then you'll need the security code to make
the radio work
again after power is cut. If they don't have it, you can
call a dealer with serial
number (top of unit I think), and they can get it
for you. Although if you call the
wrong dealer they might want to give
you #@$& and tell you to come in with the radio and
title, blah blah
blah. I'd like to see someone steal the unit and install it in
another
car....................
About the synchros, speed shift the
car into the lower gears. I bought a 94, and
because I was hesitant to
get on it with the owner riding along I never speed shifted
until I owned
it. I then noticed the grinding into second gear. I ended up getting
a
new trans from the power train warranty, but if the warranty isn't in
effect, tell him
you won't buy the car unless you can drive it
fast.
The 94 is often the most interesting and sought-after
year. In 94 they were bumped up
20 hp, receive a 6spd and projection
lights. After 94 features started disappearing to
cut cost and possibly
save maintainence. Sport/tour exhaust was eventually done away
with,
along with Electronically Controlled Suspension and the active
spoilers.
Good luck,
Jason
Tracy, Austin wrote:
>
Also, I was wondering if there is anything that I should be careful
about
> when buying this car. Are the Turbos a weak link? Are there
any accessories
> that should be with the car (sunroof shade, spare tool
kit?)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 21:17:58 -0800
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Roll Cages?
I too am in the market for a roll bar. A
four point cage to be exact for my '92 TT to
meet the
requirements for the
130mph class in the Silver State Classic (Nevada - September).
I
want
a cage with two rear kickers and a horizontal cross bar to attach a
five point safety
harness.
Fein, Edward wrote:
> Autopower
actually makes bolt-in cages for our cars. Try OGRacing
> (http://www.ogracing.com) - I got a quote of
just over $400 from them for
> one.
> That's just over $400 for
a road-race _bar_, not a full cage. Full cages will run you
> more,
obviously.
I was not able to locate a listing for 3/S applications
anywhere. Does OGRacing make
custom
cages upon request? I know
some 3/S cars have competed in the past at high speeds
including
John
Hennessey (most known for his Viper Venom packages) who topped out at 187
mph.
Many
of you may recall that John used to cater to 3/S cars several
moons ago.
I just want a tasteful cage that doesn't tear up my
interior. Any insight would be
appreciated.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 19:21:16 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
street race shift point
I was trying to determine the best 1st to 2nd
shift point when street racing
my 93 TT.
I calculated the final drive to
be 12.195 and the speed to be 45 MPH @ 7000
RPM.
If I shift at redline
that puts me in 2nd at about 4000 RPM --- a fine spot
for
rapid
acceleration. However --- according to the dyno runs done by our
European
affiliates
torque starts to drop at about 5000 RPM and HP
flattens at 5500 or so.
Shifting at
these points puts me in 2nd at a
little under 3000 RPM --- not a good
acceleration
range.
So the
question is --- what shift point is the best compromise between
torque, HP
and
turbo spoolup??
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 4 Mar 1999 22:28:34 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Oil on
my transfer case
Changing oil the other day I discovered that oil has
been collecting along the
bottom of the transfer case. My partner in crime,
Dave Trent, commented that
it looked like it was coming from somewhere near
the top rear of the engine
bay - the transfer case being the lowest point for
the oil to flow before it
drips away. Next day I had the transaxle and
transfer case fluid checked at a
tranny shop - both full. Makes sense since
the transaxle and transfer case
were replaced under warranty about 1 1/2
years ago.
The oil looks like it could be motor oil from the engine - as
far as my
eyeball could tell. I did have to add about half a quart of oil to
the engine
recently. Dave tried to get a good look at the oil fittings on the
rear turbo,
but couldn't quite tell. The tech at the tranny shop suggested
checking the
rear valve cover gasket.
The clutch has felt a bit funny
lately. I thought it might be fluid loss from
the clutch master cylinder. I
checked the clutch fluid reservoir - full. By
the way the Mitsu owner's
manual shows the clutch fluid reservoir behind or
below the Y-pipe at the
final elbow as it connects to the plenum. It is not
there. It is just behind
the front left shock strut tower and just to the left
of the brake master
cyl. (visualise as if you were sitting in the car). I must
have poked around
under the Y-pipe for 15 minutes trying to locate an
invisible clutch
reservoir.
Anybody have any suggestions about what other part of the
engine I need to
check?
Just for my own curiosity - where is the
clutch master cylinder? Is it hiding
somewhere under the big cover on the
brake master cyl?
By the way - anybody living in or near Indianapolis who
needs tranny work - I
HIGHLY recommend Lafayette square AAMCO transmission
(just north of 38th and
east of 465). My car's former owner got the runaround
from THREE Mitsu dealers
in the area before this AAMCO shop diagnosed the
getrag synchros going bad. He
had a Mitsu dealer ship a new transaxle and
transfer case to AAMCO and had
them do the tranny swap. Mitsu then inspected
the work to continue the
waranty.
Doug Bailey, the AAMCO owner, is a
super nice guy. I called him up and he
remembered the car and previous owner.
He was real busy but agreed to take a
look at the car. The tech who installed
the new tranny checked everything out.
He was very thorough - even tried
adding fluid to the transfer case just to be
sure it was full. When he was
done he talked to me for awhile about his
experience repairing the car and
gave me some suggestions for tracking down
the oil leak.
They didn't
charge me a penny so I told him I'd spread the word about their
good service.
Sorry this doesn't apply to everybody on the list, but I needed
to get the
word out. Their phone number is (317) 290-6000.
Thanks.
Paul
Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Mar 1999 23:39:07 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: street race shift point
> However --- according to the dyno
runs done by our European affiliates
> torque starts to drop at about 5000
RPM and HP flattens at 5500 or so.
Please note, that at least mine is a 5
speed one compared to the 6-speed
Stealths. I'm not sure about Mikael's
3000GT :)
// Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 12:31:45 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Calculating injector size
Hi,
What formula shall be use to
calculate injector size???
The reason I ask is that my supplier of
injectors recomend me to use their 480cc/min (at 3 bar) and say that they will
be perfect on a 550 hp engine.
I have used (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of
injectors*duty cycle %)
(don't know what the "0.55" is but it shall be used
on a turbo engine)
this makes (550*0.55)/(6*0.8)=63 lbs/h and that is
~625cc/min
I also talked to another company and they say that you shall
calculate with 500cc/100hp and that is 458 cc for 550hp.
When I use the
injector size calculation program on Greddy's site http://www.greddy.com/injectionsizer.html
the result for 550 hp and 6 injectors are 620 cc/min.
I know most of the
fast guys are using 550 or 560 and some are using 720 injectors. Depending on
how you calculate the 720 injectors are good for 640 to almost 900 hp.
What is the "right" way to calculate this?
/Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:12:19 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: street race shift point
Even though the torque curve might be
flattening out or even dropping, you
want to find the point where, when you
enter the next gear, the new torque
equals the amount of torque in the
previous gear at the instant you shifted.
240 255 270
285 310 300 260
4000 4500 5000 5500 6000 6500
7000
|<------------------->|
The numbers are made up but illustrate the
point, I hope.
- -Bob
> So the question is --- what shift point
is the best compromise between
> torque, HP and turbo spoolup??
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:48:07 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil on
my transfer case
Sounds like it might be your rear main seal. This
can also cause oil to
contaminate your clutch. The shop should
have recommended replacing this
7.00 part when the tranny was out. If not,
they did you an injustice as the
tranny must be pulled again to replace
it.
Bob
93 Stealth TT
- -----Original Message-----
From: Klusmanp@aol.com <Klusmanp@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, March 04, 1999 10:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Oil on my transfer
case
>Changing oil the other day I discovered that oil has been
collecting along
the
>bottom of the transfer case. My partner in crime,
Dave Trent, commented
that
>it looked like it was coming from somewhere
near the top rear of the engine
>bay - the transfer case being the lowest
point for the oil to flow before
it
>drips away. Next day I had the
transaxle and transfer case fluid checked at
a
>tranny shop - both
full. Makes sense since the transaxle and transfer case
>were replaced
under warranty about 1 1/2 years ago.
>
>The oil looks like it could
be motor oil from the engine - as far as my
>eyeball could tell. I did
have to add about half a quart of oil to the
engine
>recently. Dave
tried to get a good look at the oil fittings on the rear
turbo,
>but
couldn't quite tell. The tech at the tranny shop suggested checking
the
>rear valve cover gasket.
>
>The clutch has felt a bit
funny lately. I thought it might be fluid loss
from
>the clutch master
cylinder. I checked the clutch fluid reservoir - full. By
>the way the
Mitsu owner's manual shows the clutch fluid reservoir behind or
>below the
Y-pipe at the final elbow as it connects to the plenum. It is not
>there.
It is just behind the front left shock strut tower and just to
the
left
>of the brake master cyl. (visualise as if you were sitting in
the car). I
must
>have poked around under the Y-pipe for 15 minutes
trying to locate an
>invisible clutch reservoir.
>
>Anybody
have any suggestions about what other part of the engine I need
to
>check?
>
>Just for my own curiosity - where is the
clutch master cylinder? Is it
hiding
>somewhere under the big cover on
the brake master cyl?
>
>By the way - anybody living in or near
Indianapolis who needs tranny work -
I
>HIGHLY recommend Lafayette
square AAMCO transmission (just north of 38th
and
>east of 465). My
car's former owner got the runaround from THREE Mitsu
dealers
>in the
area before this AAMCO shop diagnosed the getrag synchros going
bad.
He
>had a Mitsu dealer ship a new transaxle and transfer case to
AAMCO and had
>them do the tranny swap. Mitsu then inspected the work to
continue the
>waranty.
>
>Doug Bailey, the AAMCO owner, is a
super nice guy. I called him up and he
>remembered the car and previous
owner. He was real busy but agreed to take
a
>look at the car. The tech
who installed the new tranny checked everything
out.
>He was very
thorough - even tried adding fluid to the transfer case just
to
be
>sure it was full. When he was done he talked to me for awhile
about his
>experience repairing the car and gave me some suggestions for
tracking down
>the oil leak.
>
>They didn't charge me a penny
so I told him I'd spread the word about their
>good service. Sorry this
doesn't apply to everybody on the list, but I
needed
>to get the word
out. Their phone number is (317)
290-6000.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Paul Klusman
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:02:48 -0600
From: "Brent & Tara Maksymiw" <brent.tara@sk.sympatico.ca>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil on my transfer case
During my last oil change before I
put my car in storage, I found a bit of
oil on the oil pan/transfer
case. I found it to be leaking from the gasket
between the oil pipe
from the turbo and the oil pan. My factory warranty
will cover
it. Should be an easy fix this spring.
Brent Maksymiw
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 07:23:08 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Calculating injector size
The number .55 is brake-horsepower specific
fuel consumption. This is the
amount of fuel per horsepower consumed by
an engine at maximum HP presuming
"correct" mixture, expressed in
lbs/hr. Usually for turbo engines it is
.55-.60. For NA engibes
it is around 0.50.
480s are TOO SMALL for a 550 HP target. They'd
be maxed out for sure at
peak HP. You want to make sure there is about
20% headroom for the
injectors since they can be more prone to failure if
operated for exteneded
periods of time beyond the 80% IDC point. Your
625 cc/min number is much
more likely closer to the better choice
IMO.
The right way to calculate this involves literally an entire page
worth of
math and even then it will only be an estimate without knowing a few
things
about the car that really can only be properly measured on a
dyno. The
formula (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of injectors*duty cycle %) is
a very good one
and generally accepted to be SAFELY accurate, which is the
real point.
Many people have successfully ran 550 cc injectors to some
impressive 1320'
times but we don't know the exact fuelpressure or flow
running through those
injecotrs. 625cc/min or better will be safe
without overkill.
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hi,
>
> What formula shall be use
to calculate injector size???
>
> The reason I ask is that my
supplier of injectors recomend me to
> use their 480cc/min (at 3 bar) and
say that they will be perfect
> on a 550 hp engine.
>
> I have
used (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of injectors*duty cycle %)
> (don't know what
the "0.55" is but it shall be used on a turbo engine)
> this makes
(550*0.55)/(6*0.8)=63 lbs/h and that is ~625cc/min
>
> I also talked
to another company and they say that you shall
> calculate with
500cc/100hp and that is 458 cc for 550hp.
>
> When I use the
injector size calculation program on Greddy's site
> http://www.greddy.com/injectionsizer.html
the result for 550 hp
> and 6 injectors are 620 cc/min.
>
> I
know most of the fast guys are using 550 or 560 and some are
> using 720
injectors. Depending on how you calculate the 720
> injectors are good for
640 to almost 900 hp.
>
> What is the "right" way to calculate
this?
>
> /Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 5 Mar 1999 09:22:19 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Calculating injector size
Hrmm, I would look into the 620CC
injectors.
I know I was at 100% injector duty cycle @ 16psi. With
550's.
> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my
home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Mikael Åkesson
Sent: Friday, March 05, 1999 5:32 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Calculating injector size
Hi,
What formula shall be
use to calculate injector size???
The reason I ask is that my supplier of
injectors recomend me to use their
480cc/min (at 3 bar) and say that they
will be perfect on a 550 hp engine.
I have used (estimated HP*0.55)/(# of
injectors*duty cycle %)
(don't know what the "0.55" is but it shall be used
on a turbo engine)
this makes (550*0.55)/(6*0.8)=63 lbs/h and that is
~625cc/min
I also talked to another company and they say that you shall
calculate with
500cc/100hp and that is 458 cc for 550hp.
When I use
the injector size calculation program on Greddy's site
http://www.greddy.com/injectionsizer.html
the result for 550 hp and 6
injectors are 620 cc/min.
I know most of
the fast guys are using 550 or 560 and some are using 720
injectors.
Depending on how you calculate the 720 injectors are good for 640
to almost
900 hp.
What is the "right" way to calculate this?
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
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of Team3S Digest V1 #117
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