--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #114
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S
Digest Monday, March 1
1999 Volume 01 : Number
114
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:40:32 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car Report :-((
> You can go up to 18 psi without much of
a problem.
YES, the ONLY PROBLEM will be the huge cost and headache of
the rebuild !
[Brian Danley]
Must be something wrong with YOUR car.
Mine has run fine with the 9b
turbos. Your looking at ALOT less air
with small turbos.
> On my stock turbos I ran 20psi at the
track.
This are about 9 seconds under full 20psi. How many runs have you
done
already ?
What pistons, injectors, etc ?
[Brian Danley]
Stock turbos. I ran this for 6-8 months! I didn't have a
boost gauge
and it was set like that via a bleeder when I bought it. To
date I've made
about 35 runs
> You will start to notice timing retard and fuel cut at
these levels.
No, he'll probably not notice the retard but the cut for
sure. But it can
be too
late then and another proud owner goes in for a
rebuild !
[Brian Danley] Most people don't run 20psi for ver
long. This is just a
spike. It can cause problems if.. That's
what I implied. Most people
don't have places to run 140+ MPH with
boost going 18-20psi for long
periods of time.
[Brian Danley]
>
Stick with the 15psi and when you see that C5 vette coming up just
> goose
it up to 18psi :)
Brian, please forgive me my criticism, but I'd not give
anyone such an
advice
that can lead in a huge engine damage, or even that
he will be hurt due to
a
stupid road race !
[Brian Danley] 18
psi for a short run on stock turbos seems pretty safe to
me. I've only
seen one person ever have a problem at 18 psi on stock
turbos.
FACT
is, our dyno sessions prove that our cars run out of gas after 14.2psi
and
the timing got retarded. This because the injectors are maxed out
over 90%
and
more and this is it. Also the pump will not give you more
then. If your car
runs
much better with the same setup we a ll have than
you're a lucky guy and
you can
go on with the 20psi. I doubt that all
others can do this.
[Brian Danley]
Did you get a printout on the Data
Logger to show this .. or is this just a
hearing and feeling
observation.
So Irving, you can go two ways : Leave the controller
setting where it is.
The
boost you see is peak up to 15lbs and this is
probably not sustained boost.
Therefore your still in the dark-green area and
not in the red one. The
other
way is the one where you got the little
devil on your shoulder (I know him
very
well) that says "crank da boost
up, do it, common, do it !". And the car
runs
like hell then .... yeah
directly to hell.
Check out my rebuild-page and also the dyno pages, and
if you still want to
follow Darth Vader... we'll see us in the rebuild
club.
Take care guys,
Roger, Switzerland
(currently in
CA)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 22:51:20 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: boost spikes ??
I hear [ read ] a lot of statements about
boost spikes. e.g. Roger said
that
during his dyno runs with boost set at
1 BAR he saw spikes of 1.34 BAR. Are
these spikes only a result of
aftermarket boost controllers or do they
occur
with the stock setup. What
is the cause?? Do they occur during rapid
throttle transitions?? Are they
visible an a mechanical boost gage or are
the transitions too fast for a
mechanical gage??
[Brian Danley]
This is common (overboost
situation) if the DSBC Gain is not set properly.
You can set your
boost controller up not to do this... it takes some time
to fine it's happy
spot.
Brian
PS:
Maybe this is why Roger had to rebuild his
engine 1.34bar =19.69 psi
(getting close to the 20 psi ....;)
I know this
wasn't the reason ... just giving you a hard time Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 21:15:45 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Car Report :-((
> [Brian Danley] Stock turbos. I ran
this for 6-8 months! I didn't have a
> boost gauge and it was set
like that via a bleeder when I bought it. To
> date I've made about 35
runs
Great, luckily the bleeder setup does only overboost a
little.
>> FACT is, our dyno sessions prove that our cars run out
of gas after 14.2psi
>> and the timing got retarded. This because the
injectors are maxed out over
>> 90% and more and this is
it.
> Did you get a printout on the Data Logger to show this .. or is
this just a
> hearing and feeling observation.
Unfortunately, we
have not had a datalogger on my car (I don't know if it works
on teh EU cars)
as well as on Jims car it won't work. On the dyno we are able to
hold the rpm
and keep the engine under full load. Then boost can be cranked up
and you can
see the power it makes more or less. This happend as boost was
increased what
indicates that the timing got retarded. Also the IDC on the Apexi
showed that
the injectors got maxed out. No knock was hearable as this is
high-speed
knock and very hard to hear on the dyno.
Brian, please share the data
loggings with us. Especially a whole 1/4 mile run
logging with all the infos
would be great. Also you have different injectors in
it, haven't you ? Would
be good to find out what are the differences on your car
compared to others
:)
Looking forward,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 21:21:28 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: boost spikes ??
> PS:
> Maybe this is why Roger
had to rebuild his engine 1.34bar =19.69 psi
> (getting close to the 20
psi ....;)
> I know this wasn't the reason ... just giving you a hard time
Roger
No, THIS WAS the reason for sure ! The huge overboostings and my
ignorance
afterwards were responsible for the rebuild :( I already had the
oil steam
comming out from the BOV before I made the hard high-speed runs on
the autobahn.
The broken rings let more pressure into the crankcase and
pressed the oil into
the intake, causing more leaner situation causing much
earlier detonations.
Well, I hope that the data logger will maybe work on my
car.
Later,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:29:12 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Aftermarket water temp gauge
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_06E4_01BE6372.25E77560
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Hoping that someone has experience in this
area!
=20
While having the dash removed I'm thinking about replacing the
water =
temp gauge. Can the sender be replaced on the second gen turbo
engine =
without causing a problem with the ECM, or anything else for that
=
matter? If so, can I go either mechanical or electrical? What
type of =
sender is used in this car? =20
=20
I'm curious if the water
temp is used for anything other than the gauge, =
if so this may complicate
replacement.
=20
Also, would it be sufficient to get a gauge with an upper
limit of 240F?
=20
Thanks for any help,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
------=_NextPart_000_06E4_01BE6372.25E77560
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
=
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hoping that someone has
experience in this =
area!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>While having the dash removed I'm =
thinking
about=20
replacing the</FONT><FONT size=3D2> water temp
gauge. Can the =
sender be=20
replaced on the second gen turbo
engine without causing a problem with =
the ECM,=20
or anything else for
that matter? If so, can I go either =
mechanical
or=20
electrical? What type of sender is used in this
car? =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>I'm curious if the water temp is used for anything =
other
than=20
the gauge, if so this may complicate
replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Also, would it be sufficient to get a gauge with an
=
upper=20
limit of 240F?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanks for any help,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>'95 R/T
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_06E4_01BE6372.25E77560--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:30:25 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Aftermarket oil pressure gauge - what range
This is a multi-part message
in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_06EE_01BE6372.511E14A0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Hoping that someone has experience in this area
too!
=20
While having the dash removed I might as well replace the oil
pressure =
gauge also. Can the sender be replaced on the second gen.
turbo engine =
without causing a problem with the ECM, or anything else for
that =
matter? If so, can I go either mechanical or electrical?
What type of =
sender is used in this car? =20
=20
Is the oil pressure
used for anything other than the gauge, if so this =
may complicate
replacement.
=20
Also, what kind of oil pressure have been noted on these
cars. Would a =
0-100 PSI gauge suffice? My dealer says the cars
run around 60 PSI but =
I thought I better check in with some more
experienced souls.
Thanks for any help,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
------=_NextPart_000_06EE_01BE6372.511E14A0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hoping
that someone has experience in this
area=20
too!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>While having the dash removed I =
might as
well=20
replace the oil pressure gauge also</FONT><FONT
size=3D2>. Can the =
sender be=20
replaced on the second gen.
turbo engine without causing a problem with =
the ECM,=20
or anything else
for that matter? If so, can I go either =
mechanical
or=20
electrical? What type of sender is used in this
car? =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Is the oil pressure used for anything other than the =
gauge,
if=20
so this may complicate
replacement.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Also, what kind of oil pressure have been noted on
=
these=20
cars. Would a 0-100 PSI gauge suffice? My
dealer says the =
cars run=20
around 60 PSI but I thought I
better check in with some more
=
experienced=20
souls.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanks for any help,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>'95 R/T
TT</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_06EE_01BE6372.511E14A0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:09:26 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Aftermarket water temp gauge
The ECU definitely uses water temperature as
one of the parameters to
calculate fuel trims and select mixture from the
fuel maps. I am assuming
it uses the same sensor on the block to also
display the water temperature
on the gauge since the gauge is driven from the
ECU.
You may wish to investigate how the ECU reacts if the gauge is
disconnected
but with the stock sensor still in place and connected to the
ECU. If it
doesn't complain you can either fit a gauge compatible with
the stock sensor
or tap an additional sensor to run the new gauge. In
any case, the ECU
wants to see water temperature. It relies on it
heavily during warmup and
even during cruise. Without it operational
drivability will definitely
suffer.
It _likely_ doesn't play as large
a role as the TPS or MAF during WOT, but
that is
speculation.
Regards,
Barry
- -----Original
Message-----
Hoping that someone has experience in this
area!
While having the dash removed I'm thinking about replacing the
water temp
gauge. Can the sender be replaced on the second gen turbo
engine without
causing a problem with the ECM, or anything else for that
matter? If so,
can I go either mechanical or electrical? What
type of sender is used in
this car?
I'm curious if the water temp is
used for anything other than the gauge, if
so this may complicate
replacement.
Also, would it be sufficient to get a gauge with an upper
limit of 240F?
Thanks for any help,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 27 Feb 1999 23:11:20 -0800
From: travis <travisblanchard@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: trying to place 17x7.5 rims on a 94 vr-4
I
know this is a couple of days old, but an alternative (if you really want to
run
the 17x7.5 wheels) would be to use a wheel adaptor. Approx. 1" to
1"1/4 should help the
wheel to fit while also allowing it to be pushed out to
look like a larger wheel.
caution!!!!! there are cheap adaptors and
there are well made(not as cheap) adaptors.
It pays to shop around and get a
good billet adaptor. I run 18" 95 vr4 wheels on my 86
mustang with 1"1/4
adaptors and have had great luck so far.(also allows me to run bmw
wheels
with diffrent bolt pattern) have gone on trips and drag raced with them.
The
diffrence between adaptors and spacers(which i don't like either) are
that the adaptors
bolt to your hub and the wheel bolts to the adaptor.
Weld racing sells these for an
okay price-but be warned.... they are usually
custom ordered and take 1-3 weeks on
average.
just my 2
cents.
travis blanchard
94
laser
looking for a tt stealth/3000 gt
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 10:21:01 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: List Question
John,
I'm not sure if your response is
an example or if this is an actual problem
you are having. You can
check out my "Wheels" webpage that acutally has
most of the differnent rim
styles found on the 3/S cars and use that as a
reference to what you are
talking about. Check it out at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/wheels.html
later,
Curt
G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
-
-----------------------------------------------
So, in other words, if I want
a clarification of exactly what vintage the
Mitsubisihi chrome wheels I have
on my 3000 are, (I'm getting
different stories from the non-Mitsubishi dealer
I bought my '95 from,
and the local Mitsubishi dealer where I get the car
serviced), I could
attach a jpeg file to email to the list, get an
identification, then I would
know how to pursue the issue of getting the
chrome plating that is
flaking off, fixed??? (How's that for a run-on
sentence?)
Advice please?
TIA,
John
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Mar 1999 10:35:16 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Aftermarket water temp gauge
I'm not sure about the 92+
models, but the 91 uses a seperate sending unit
for the gage, as do a lot of
other Mitsu's. It is located just under the
upper radiator hose. There are
three connectors next to each other, the one
for the gage is the forwardmost
connector, with only one wire.
I know if you get an Autometer mechanical
gage, it will come with several
adaptors, one of them will fit into the
factory sending unit's hole.
(remember to drain the coolant before removing
the sender)
240F may not be enough if you are using a stock thermostat
and radiator, as
"normal" operating temp's are in the area of 220-230F. If
racing, the
temp's may get to 250F.
Wayne
At 11:09 PM 2/28/99
-0700, you wrote:
>I am assuming it uses the same sensor on the block to
also display the
water temperature
>on the gauge since the gauge is
driven from the ECU.
>-----Original Message-----
>
>Hoping
that someone has experience in this area!
>I'm curious if the water
temp is used for anything other than the gauge, if
>so this may complicate
replacement.
>
>Also, would it be sufficient to get a gauge with an
upper limit of 240F?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Mar 1999 06:44:18 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods (N/A)
Michael Booker wrote:
>
> I
have similar mods on my 93 R/T, (K&N, Custom, mufflerless exhaust)
>
And i can definately say that the low end torque has been so decreased
>
that even with a powerbreak launch, the tires don't spin at all, but
>
holding the throttle open, i get a big, noticable kick in the pants
>
acceleration boost from 3000 RPM-to the redline. I also get much better
>
gas mileage and my system, with no mufflers, is really loud, borderline
>
illegal, but it sounds good and is throaty enough so it doesn't sound
>
like a lawnmower.
>
> Matt
I wonder if it would help to put
a TT exhaust on the car and run it in
Tour mode to help create back pressure
at low RPMs? The active exhaust
system automatically switches to Sport
mode above 3500 RPMs, right about
where you say the freer flowing exhaust and
intake begin to improve
performance. Anyone tried this?
Thanx...
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 13:10:09 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods
(N/A)
> I wonder if it would help to put a TT exhaust on the car and
run it in
> Tour mode to help create back pressure at low RPMs? The
active exhaust
> system automatically switches to Sport mode above 3500
RPMs, right about
> where you say the freer flowing exhaust and intake
begin to improve
> performance. Anyone tried this?
Thanx...
how exactly is the exhaust unit controlled? is it a seperate
control unit
entity that monitors RPM, or is it tied into the ECU somehow? i
would think
the former would be preffered.
omar
92
r/t
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 14:41:51 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
IMP
Irving & Ana Jimenez. Tried to e-mail direct. Bounced. Is this
the IMP
located in Clifton NJ ? If not, please supply address and phone
#
Thanks Dave 93 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 15:01:39 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Intercoolers
Does anyone know what the flow and cooling rate of the stock
intercoolers are
?
Trying to justify upgrade and what it will do for me
bottom line.
Dave 93 VR4 stock turbo's , Blitz DSBC 1.05 bars.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Mar 1999 17:01:47 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trust exhaust dillema
Hey guys and girls,
I recently aquired a
trust cat-back system for a TT 3/s. I dont see how
this will fit on my car.
The flange that bolts to the catalyst doesn't have
the same shape as the
factoy gasket. Has anybody had a similar problem?
Maybe i'm missing a part to
the trust system? I have two pieces, are there
supposed to be three?
Thanks.....
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 01 Mar 1999 17:12:36 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Trust exhaust Boo-Boo
Sorry everyone,
I just realized i was
looking at the wrong flange!! How ignorant of
me......I'm now in the process
of removing a couple notches from my
knowlege
belt......
Wayne
(future catless, trust exhaust junckie)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 18:16:12 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Intake
air temp
All,
I just recieved a $50.00 air temp. meter that
includes sending unit from
summit. On looking for a good place to
install it, I started eyeing the
tapped hole I put in my intake plenum that
is currently occupied by my boost
gage line, (its the same tap size).
My question is, is there a good place
to tee in the boost gage line that
won't effect the device that also uses
the line, (i.e. my AVC-R boost
controller), and also provide fairly
accurate
boost.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT/13g/AVC/AFC/ABC/FCC/FDA/etc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 19:58:59 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: HKS EVCIV and EVCIII Questions
I've got the Apex'i Twin-Chamber
BOV in my '94.
It would easily be my first choice for an external-venting
BOV if it wasn't
for one small problem: Its stock mounting position
interferes with the shift
linkage on the 6-spd transmission, so it requires
some modification to mount
in the '94+ cars.
Other than that drawback,
it is a nice, well-constructed unit, with a
tunable blow-off note (i.e you
can change teh size of the outer opening ring
to change the pitch and volume
of the sound).
Unfortunately, it is victim to the stumbling problems
associated with all
external-venting BOVs, so if I had to do it again, I'd
probably set up a
Greddy Type-S to vent back into the stock
location.
-Ed
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Meyer [mailto:meyer2@erols.com]
Sent: Sunday,
February 28, 1999 2:54 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: HKS EVCIV and EVCIII Questions
Brent,
We are using the
EVC IV with excellent accuracy and no spikes. In response
to your BOV
question we are using the HKS which comes preset from the
factory and works
great. I would also like to make the group aware that
Apex~i sells a BOV with
a 3S kit for $50 less than HKS and Blitz but I don't
know anyone who has
tried it. If any one wants to we have them for $250.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 17:37:04 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
transaxle woes !!!
went to change the fluid in the transaxle of my 93
stealth TT and was
dismayed to find the drain plug was stripped. It would
spin in both
directions but wouldn't tighten or loosen :-( ---luckily
it doesn't leak
either :-)
Any ideas out there? I've thought of drilling
and tapping a hole in the plug
and using the new hole as a drain or using a
slide hammer to pull the plug
and then retapping the hole. hoping for a
better plan
!!
Jim Berry 93 stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:33:54 EST
From: PFloyd91@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: List
Question
In a message dated 3/1/99 10:23:48 AM Central Standard
Time,
Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com
writes:
<< http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/wheels.html
>>
Curt ---
THANK YOU !!!!!!
My wheels are the
97-99 3000GT SL 17"
You've answered the question -- Thanks!
Now I need
to figure out what to do about the
chrome falling off ---
Thanks to
everyone for helping with this, for putting
up with my dumb questions
----
And anyone who hasn't done so, oughta check out
Curt's sight for
general interest purposes ---
Now, if you thought I was a pain in the a**
about
the wheels, just wait until I get going with some of
the
technical stuff <<GG>>
John
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:17:44 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: transaxle
woes !!!
Try locking a set of the lock jaw pliers on it and then hang a
weight on the
pliers. Maybe as you unscrew it will grab a bit & screw
out. If not working,
try a hub puller type of tool and turn slowly. The slap
hammer will kill it
for sure. I'd like to say torch heat it but a fire is
possible.
Arty
<< ubj: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date: 3/1/99 8:51:10 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: fastmax@home.com (james
berry)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(team 3si)
went to change the fluid in the transaxle of my 93
stealth TT and was
dismayed to find the drain plug was stripped. It
would spin in both
directions but wouldn't tighten or loosen :-(
---luckily it doesn't leak
either :-)
Any ideas out there?
I've thought of drilling and tapping a hole in the plug
and using the
new hole as a drain or using a slide hammer to pull the plug
and then
retapping the hole. hoping for a better plan
!!
Jim Berry >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 20:39:48 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Hrmm try using a file and making new
corners for the plug.
If that does not work, you might find someone who
can weld another drain
plug to the one in there so you can pull it
out.
Maybe weld a nut on the end of the plug.
> Brad
Member
of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
Sent: Monday,
March 01, 1999 8:18 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc:
Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: transaxle
woes !!!
Try locking a set of the lock jaw pliers on it and then hang a
weight on the
pliers. Maybe as you unscrew it will grab a bit & screw
out. If not working,
try a hub puller type of tool and turn slowly. The slap
hammer will kill it
for sure. I'd like to say torch heat it but a fire is
possible.
Arty
<< ubj: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
Date:
3/1/99 8:51:10 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: fastmax@home.com (james
berry)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(team 3si)
went to change the fluid in the transaxle of my 93
stealth TT and was
dismayed to find the drain plug was stripped. It
would spin in both
directions but wouldn't tighten or loosen :-(
---luckily it doesn't leak
either :-)
Any ideas out there?
I've thought of drilling and tapping a hole in the
plug
and using
the new hole as a drain or using a slide hammer to pull the plug
and
then retapping the hole. hoping for a better plan
!!
Jim Berry >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 18:33:00 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
transaxle woes !!!
- ---!!!
>Hrmm try using a file and
making new corners for the plug.
>
>If that does not work, you might
find someone who can weld another drain
>plug to the one in there so you
can pull it out.
>
>Maybe weld a nut on the end of the
plug.
>
The head of the drain plug is in good shape ---
someone overtightened the
plug and stripped the threads
I assume the
aluminum transaxle is stripped.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:00:06 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: transaxle woes !!!
OH! That is bad. Maybe a Heli Coil
and rethread it.
Not the best fix in the world, but some companies make a
expanding rubber
plug. This should fix your problem. Just have to replace the
plug every time
you change the transaxle oil. Cost ~4-5.00 at any parts
store.
This thing looks like a rubber freeze plug, tighten the nut on the
end and
the rubber expands.
> Brad
Member of ESSC since
1999>
> Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
The head of
the drain plug is in good shape --- someone overtightened the
plug and
stripped the threads
I assume the aluminum transaxle is
stripped.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:08:03 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Car Report :-((
Brian, please share the data loggings with
us. Especially a whole 1/4 mile run
logging with all the infos would be
great. Also you have different injectors in
it, haven't you ? Would be good
to find out what are the differences on your car
compared to others
:)
[Brian Danley] I'm going to try to use it this weekend. I
post my results.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:12:54 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: boost spikes ??
> PS:
> Maybe this is why
Roger had to rebuild his engine 1.34bar =19.69 psi
> (getting close to the
20 psi ....;)
> I know this wasn't the reason ... just giving you a hard
time Roger
No, THIS WAS the reason for sure ! The huge overboostings and
my ignorance
afterwards were responsible for the rebuild :( I already had the
oil steam
comming out from the BOV before I made the hard high-speed runs on
the
autobahn.
The broken rings let more pressure into the crankcase and
pressed the oil
into
the intake, causing more leaner situation causing
much earlier detonations.
Well, I hope that the data logger will maybe work
on my car.
[Brian Danley] As long as the wiring harness is the same it
should work.
When you find out what your looks compare it to the US
version. I think
it has 14 pins .. 10 on the top and four on this
bottom side.
kinda like this.... | | |
| | | | | |
|
| | |
|
It might have less pins .... it's the code
harness
Brian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:43:46 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Goodridge brake line kit
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_0122_01BE642C.95BBBD00
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
What is included in this kit for the turbo cars???
#308865
I just received mine. It includes 8 brake lines and nothing
more. The =
package leads one to believe there should be crush washers
included. =
According to the vendor these come without any
hardware. As I have had =
a few not so good conversations with them
lately I'm not sure they're =
giving me the truth. Anyone know what
comes in these kits?
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
------=_NextPart_000_0122_01BE642C.95BBBD00
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>What is
included in this kit for the =
turbo=20
cars???
#308865</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just received mine. It =
includes 8
brake=20
lines and nothing more. The package leads one to believe
there =
should be=20
crush washers included. According to the
vendor these come without =
any=20
hardware. As I have had a few
not so good conversations with them =
lately=20
I'm not sure they're
giving me the truth. Anyone know what comes =
in
these=20
kits?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'95 R/T
=
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_0122_01BE642C.95BBBD00--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:48:08 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: AVCR
solenoid location
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BE642D.31CBD360
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Forgive me for bringing this up as it has been discussed
in the past.
Has anyone successfully mounted the solenoid for the AVCR so
that you =
can't hear it? (In a 3S
car...)
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-
------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BE642D.31CBD360
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Forgive
me for bringing this up as =
it has been=20
discussed in the
past.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Has anyone successfully mounted the =
solenoid
for=20
the AVCR so that you can't hear it? (In a 3S
car...)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'95 R/T
=
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_012C_01BE642D.31CBD360--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 1 Mar 1999 21:30:33 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
AVCR solenoid location
Yes. I mounted mine securely using sheet
metal screws to the flattest part
of the inner fender well (near the air
cleaner) on three thin layers of
compressed foam rubber. When
compressed I'd guess that the pad is between
1/16" and 1/8" thick.
It
is absolutely silent as far as I or anyone else I've had try to hear it
can
tell. It cannot be heard from within the cabin in the driver's
seat,
nor with the windows open and a passenger listening for the
"legendary"
ticking, nor when going through an underpass tunnel or walls and
the like.
I have even driven while under boost with someone on the sidelines
to see if
they could hear any ticking from outside. All they report
hearing is the
exhaust, the sucking of the intake through the K & N,
whine of the 15Gs and
the BOV. Before the tranny was fixed there'd be
the odd crunch too ;)
I have first hand experience with two other AVC-R
installations in non-3S
cars and they too are also dead quiet. When
mounted correctly they are no
louder than any other solenoid.
It seems
that people complain only about the Apexi solenoid being noisy. I
do
not believe it unique to the Apexi nor noiser than any other solenoid of
this
type. I have heard other non-Apexi solenoids that tick as well.
I
believe it comes down to how and where it is
mounted.
Regards,
Barry
- -----Original
Message-----
Forgive me for bringing this up as it has been discussed in
the past.
Has anyone successfully mounted the solenoid for the AVCR so
that you can't
hear it? (In a 3S car...)
Thanks,
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Mar 1999 00:03:35 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Show quality
High Polished Plenum
Selling a Very High "Show Quality" Plenum with a
true Mirror finish.
Will sell for $600.00 with core exchange.
Arty 91
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #114
****************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm