--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #110
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest       Thursday, February 25 1999       Volume 01 : Number 110




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 12:55:46 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ventilation

> Would this explain why I have a slight oil film on my intercooler pipes for
> the rear turbo and the front intercooler is spotless ?  Car has 98,000 miles.
> Or is there another reason for this that I should be concerned about ?

Well, as the car has so much miles I guess the rear turbo leaks a little but nothing really to
worry. If you are having only a slight amount if oil in one of the pipes then it is not due to the
crankcase vent. Check out my rebuild site and you'll see what means a lot oil in the y-pipe !

Nothing to worry :)

Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 12:59:46 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase ventilation

> Under boost, the turbos are pulling air in through your air filters.
> The tube that runs from the rear valve cover to the rear turbo inlet
> hose sees a negative pressure under boost since the air rushing by the
> place where the tube joins the inlet hose creates a vacuum in the rear
> valve cover.  This helps evacuate the top end of the motor.  When not
> under boost, the PCV valve on the rear of the front valve cover opens
> which enables the intake manifold vacuum to pull oil vapor from the
> front valve cover directly into the combustion chamber.

So what is the consesus here ? Summit has a nice breather container for about $29 in their catalouge
but if the vacuum is really needed the ventilation wouldn't work properly then. It is no problem on
NA cars as it is on the Camaro but the vacuum condition makes me thinking.

Without the manual handy it makes it complicated to create ideas :)

Regards,
Roger






>
> -Bob
>
> > Unfortunately, I don't have the manual handy but it would
> > be interesting to understand what removing
> > the intake hose would cause. As I can recall, the valve
> > just after the intake hose prevents boost
> > entering the crankcase but in a vacuum situation the valve
> > let the gases flow. Am I right ? If so,
> > the function of the valve must not be altered due to such a mod.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 13:07:28 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear turbo precat removal

> I found a race fabricator who will build and install a stainless, turbo back
> system for 11 or 12 hundred dollars.

This is damn expensive but, done with a good muffler without the annyoing droning, it's ok.

> This operation will remove precats and install hi-flow cat and flex section.

The front pre-cat is no problem and David Buschur offers a replacement pipe for around $150 (the
flanges are the expensive part). Also, I doubt that the fabricator already knows how the pre-cat/O2
housing looks like and he will look very odd when he sees what he has to do. In fact he'll say that
the stock thing has to be cut and another part to be welded on. If so, you can directly gut the
precat by yourself and save your money.

Upon the installation, the rebuild on my engine was done with the engine in the bay. For the rear
turbo all the stuff lying around has to be removed to gain enough access. Even more I guess that
access from under the car at the same would also help. Others do have more experience in this than
me of course :)

Regards,
Roger
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 15:17:39 -0600
From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Crankcase ventilation

I assume the breather hose being talked about here would be the same as the
one on the NA cars that connects the rear valve cover to the inlet hose
right before the throttle body. how would disconnecting or sealing off this
hose affect the  NA cars? i always wondered, as i always find a little oil
in the inlet hose and throttle body

> So what is the consesus here ? Summit has a nice breather
> container for about $29 in their catalouge
> but if the vacuum is really needed the ventilation wouldn't work
> properly then. It is no problem on
> NA cars as it is on the Camaro but the vacuum condition makes me thinking.
>
> Without the manual handy it makes it complicated to create ideas :)
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
>
>
>
>
>
> >
> > -Bob
> >
> > > Unfortunately, I don't have the manual handy but it would
> > > be interesting to understand what removing
> > > the intake hose would cause. As I can recall, the valve
> > > just after the intake hose prevents boost
> > > entering the crankcase but in a vacuum situation the valve
> > > let the gases flow. Am I right ? If so,
> > > the function of the valve must not be altered due to such a mod.
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
> info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 14:47:44 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

FYI - Check out  Bozz Speeds  site  www.bozz.co.jp and  look  under  the 99
Tokyo Auto Salon.  They have done some amazing things  to the VR4  (GTO
V5.8), including reworking the entire intake system,  with new exhaust
manifolds,  HUGE turbos and some really interesting I/C plumbing.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 13:50:23 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase ventilation

Can someone scan a diagram/tumbsized photo of the tube we're talking
about here so we can all be on the same page. It is slightly bending the
rules, but will be of benifit to the topic at hand. No misunderstanding
makes for smoother solutions.

On another note, my SAVC-R came with a small transparent orange
(reuseable) filter for inline vaccum tube insertion, and may be a modest
solution to the problem (clean it when it becomes visibly clogged by oil
mist).

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 17:04:48 -0500
From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

Anybody know where I can buy those upgrades???????  Anybody read Japanese
and tell em what quarter mile time they are pushing?  Thanks


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey Young [mailto:jefyoung@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 24, 1999 4:48 PM
To: Stealth - Starnet; Stealth - Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

FYI - Check out  Bozz Speeds  site  www.bozz.co.jp and  look
under  the 99
Tokyo Auto Salon.  They have done some amazing things  to
the VR4  (GTO
V5.8), including reworking the entire intake system,  with
new exhaust
manifolds,  HUGE turbos and some really interesting I/C
plumbing.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 14:16:17 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase ventilation / keep the bc valve clean

Darc,

> On another note, my SAVC-R came with a small transparent orange
> (reuseable) filter for inline vaccum tube insertion, and may be a modest
> solution to the problem (clean it when it becomes visibly clogged by oil
> mist).

Who you gonna tell ?? Two weeks ago I decided to open the solenoid box of the DSBC and the thing was
SOACKED with oil ... and still worked very well. I cleaned it including the hoses with carburator
spray and currently look for a good filter to prevent anything going to them in the future.

The tube we are refering to goes into the tubing after the MAS in the direction to the rear turbo
inlet. The NA tube goes into the intake ellbow before the TB.

Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 17:09:49 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

Thats not japanese, nice car though.....

At 05:04 PM 2/24/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Anybody read Japanese
>and tell em what quarter mile time they are pushing?


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 17:02:03 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject: RE:Team3S: Specs? and year to purchase

Hey Andrew,

Yes there is a website that list which years had which features.  Check out
my webpage.  And go to the Features page.

later,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/


- ------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 07:22:31 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrewb@infowest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Specs? and year to purchase

I own a 91 VR-4, and I just made the decision to purchase a 2nd gen,
when I start my new job, in 2 weeks.  I love the ECS, and the Active
Aero, Climate control, is there any year of the 94+ that had all of
those features, or is there a website listing all of the years and their
features?

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 18:47:23 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

The site is in Japanese, they do have some parts of the descriptions in
English. Currently the Bozz Speed car in the 99 Tokyo Auto Salon is
utilizing, Alcon brakes, Twin T67 Turbos (Greddy, TD06/07 Hybrid with
25G wheel), Front Mount intercooler, enlarged front Hood to accomodate
the turbo kit. The turbos are venting through External Wastegates,
wheels are by Enkei in 18x10 on 275/35's The wheel wheel has been flared
to accomodate them. Clutch and flywheel are OS Giken Twin Plate Clutch
and Flywheel. The car is utilizing a Bozz Speed intake manifold,
stainless steel exhaust manifold and enlarged radiator. As I recall they
utilized a Skyline GT-R fuel pump in the past, and are controlling fuel
through and HKS F-Con V and a VPC.
The motor has been bored to a 3.1 liter and he is utlizing Bozz Speed
aluminum piston kit.
His exhaust is the Bozz speed dual Cannon Muffler exhaust among the Bozz
Speed Aero Mirrors and front end.

As far as quarter miles, he has no times. His car has horrible response
with these turbos, but from what Bozz Speed has told me in the past, he
has 300 km/h ability on the top end. This car is street driven and
regularly drives to it's top end limits.
They have told me that at 280 km/h the car is severely drag limited.

Regarding price tag. I would have to say he could have easily bought
another GTO/3000GT/Stealth for the price he paid for the parts. The
exhaust alone is $1600, Turbo kit is roughly ~$10,000. That does include
any labor since most of his parts were custom made.

If you have any questions regarding their products, or Bozz Speed stuff,
feel free to email me.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 16:25:38 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Crankcase ventilation / keep the bc valve clean

Roger;


> The tube we are refering to goes into the tubing after the MAS in the direction to the rear turbo

Well, visualization is not one of my best suits, so I went out and had a gander (a look) and a small
hose (not a vaccum tube size) comes out of a fitting shortly behind the MAS and runs back up along to
firewall, enters a solid metal tube, and shortly thereafter becomes rubber again before dropping down in
the direction of the rear turbo. Is the baby you're talking about? For some reason  I thought it was a
tube, as in vaccum tube, and not a small hose. Enlighten me here if I'm wrong...which is why I thought a
picture would save the thousand words.

Best

Darc

> inlet. The NA tube goes into the intake ellbow before the TB.
>
> Regards,
> Roger
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 21:45:35 -0500
From: Irving & Ana Jimenez <lt1power@crystal.palace.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

> As far as quarter miles, he has no times. His car has horrible response
> with these turbos, but from what Bozz Speed has told me in the past, he
> has 300 km/h ability on the top end. This car is street driven and
> regularly drives to it's top end limits.
> They have told me that at 280 km/h the car is severely drag limited.



Do you know if the car still has the AWD System on ?

Irving
96 VR4


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 21:49:03 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bozz Speed site

The 99 Auto Salon Bozz Speed car does still retain the AWD system.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 21:55:01 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Specs? and year to purchase

> 1994 was the last year for the ECS...

Not really, I looked at a 95 VR4 before I bought my 96 and it had ESC.

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 19:36:13 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Specs? and year to purchase

Ron Thompson responded to:

> > 1994 was the last year for the ECS...

with

>
>
> Not really, I looked at a 95 VR4 before I bought my 96 and it had ESC.
>

I think you're right Ron....there seemed to be overlap of production with changes being
phased in, so that a couple of months could mean the difference between having this
feature in 95, or not. In this case likely both statements are true (or both are
false).  The Stealth line was the same, and although officially it was  announced that
they were to be discontinued at the end of 95, they were selling a small run 96 modles
until all were gone. I have yet to determine if any differences existed between these
two years in the case of the Stealth, as I haven't seen a 96. Personally, I suspect not!

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 20:41:36 PST
From: "Ed Eberhart" <hotnates@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Body roll?

Here's the deal:  I got my 93 SL back from a four wheel alignment (after
about 3 months of repair work), and I have way too much body roll.  I
had a new suspension installed on the back driver's side (where the girl
hit me @ about 60), and I think new bushings.  I'm taking the car in
tomorrow to see if a sway bar or something is loose.  Other than that, I
have no idea what could be causing this.  I mean, the thing rolls like a
big sedan now!

Thanks
ed

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Feb 1999 20:37:12 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear turbo precat removal

- -----Original Message-----
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 24, 1999 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: rear turbo precat removal


>> I found a race fabricator who will build and install a stainless, turbo
back
>> system for 11 or 12 hundred dollars.
>
>This is damn expensive but, done with a good muffler without the annoying
droning, it's OK.



A look at the Nexus web site shows a cat back at around $650 plus,and a down
pipe with hi-flow cat
going for $545. In addition I have shipping plus installation. I'd install
it  myself and save a few bucks,
[ I work cheap : ) ]. The fabricator also guarantees his work for as long as
he's around.

>The front pre-cat is no problem and David Buschur offers a replacement pipe
for around $150 (the
>flanges are the expensive part). Also, I doubt that the fabricator already
knows how the pre-cat/O2
>housing looks like and he will look very odd when he sees what he has to
do. In fact he'll say that
>the stock thing has to be cut and another part to be welded on. If so, you
can directly gut the
>precat by yourself and save your money.


Good call on this one --- I looked at my shop manual and that front flange
is a bit odd. I might as well
save the money and do as you suggest.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 00:34:39 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cockpit adjustable aftermarket struts???

  Sorry about the odd wording in the subject, trying to draw the right attention with
few words...
  At any rate...  I just got the bad news from my dealer, a blown strut.  They want me
to pay them $475 for the one strut, and of course another $475 for the other strut.  I'm
sure I can do better, but my motto is:  If I have to replace something, I'll replace it
with something better.  The only problem I forsee is finding struts that I can adjust
from inside the cabin.  I'd definately like a handling improvement, turns are fun, but I
don't want to do away with the option to switch to a more friendly pothole/rough road
setting at the touch of a button.  I don't see myself jacking up the rear of my car to
change stiffness settings when I see a pothole coming up.  I'm sure they've got to be
out there.  I'm pretty sure they aren't all that complicated.  Sounds like clever use of
an actuator to me.  I'd also be willing to bet that Mitsu didn't make the struts
themselves.  Anyone know of any struts like this?  The sport/tour switch is among my
favorite things about my car, I don't wanna do without it.

Thanks a bunch,
Jason
94 VR4 "I HERTZM"
13.36@102.54

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 07:57:51 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel problem

Hey everyone,

I need some help from the mechanics out there.  I was messing around with my
Stealth and Eclipse the other night and I wanted to see if the 18 inch rims
would fit on my Eclipse.  So I jacked up both cars and took the wheel off of
the Stealth.  And I took all of the lug nuts off the wheel of my Eclipse,
but the wheel would not come off.  It was strange, it was like the lug nuts
where still on there.  I pulled as hard as I could but it wouldn't budge.
Am I missing something obvious here??  All five lug nuts are completly off
and the tire is off the ground.  What gives??  The rim has a plastic cap in
the center.  Is there some kind of pin underneath that or something??  The
Eclipse is a 96 GSX with the spiral rims.  I've taken wheels off of cars
before, but never had a problem like this before.  Anyone have suggestions
on how to pry the wheel off, or is there something else I need to do?

Please help a novice mechanic,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 08:32:26 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel problem

Kick the sidewall of the tire as hard as you can.......That usally does the
trick...


At 07:57 AM 2/25/99 -0600, you wrote:

>Anyone have suggestions
>on how to pry the wheel off, or is there something else I need to do?


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:47:58 EST
From: GC3000GT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel problem

In a message dated 2/25/99 5:59:46 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com writes:

<<  I pulled as hard as I could but it wouldn't budge.
 Am I missing something obvious here??  All five lug nuts are completly off
 and the tire is off the ground.  What gives?? >>


Hi Curt,

When you remove all 5 lugs, try kicking (lightly) one side of the sidewall of
the tire.  Sometimes due to weather elements and normal wear, the wheel can
actually "stick" to the rotor, and it'll seem as if it won't come off.  This
happens to me sometimes, and I usually give the bottom of the tire a quick
jolt - usually it's enough to brake it free.

Gregg
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 08:25:57 -0800
From: 10100101@collegeclub.com
Subject: Team3S: EGR

Has anyone disconnected their EGR? What did it affect?

Mike


- --------------------------------------------------------------------------

Why is College Club the largest and fastest growing college student site?
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 08:23:39 -0800
From: 10100101@collegeclub.com
Subject: Team3S: For Sale: Custom Sub Box

Hello,
I have a custom sub box for sale that fits three 10" subs. $200
Removel of spare tire is required.

Mike


- --------------------------------------------------------------------------

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Find out for yourself at http://www.collegeclub.com


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:09:09 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Cockpit adjustable aftermarket struts???

Jason,

I just bought a set of 4 ECS struts (have 90K on originals) for my '91
VR4 for $542 from Tallahassee Mitsu.  Of course I have to install them
myself or pay someone for the installation, and pay for an alignment.
As you can see, dealer prices are double!  Buy the parts yourself and
shop around for labor.

Jason Barnhart wrote:
>
>   Sorry about the odd wording in the subject, trying to draw the right attention with
> few words...
>   At any rate...  I just got the bad news from my dealer, a blown strut.  They want me
> to pay them $475 for the one strut, and of course another $475 for the other strut. 
snip
- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:13:20 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel problem

> -----Original Message-----
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel problem
>
> When you remove all 5 lugs, try kicking (lightly) one side of
> the sidewall of the tire.  Sometimes due to weather elements
> and normal wear, the wheel can actually "stick" to the rotor,
> and it'll seem as if it won't come off.  This happens to me
> sometimes, and I usually give the bottom of the tire a quick
> jolt - usually it's enough to brake it free.

Just as a FYI, an experience I had a couple weeks ago:

Driving down the road, see woman and kid next to their car Stanza(?) with a
flat tire.  Figure I could do my "good turn" and get to switch my Boy Scout
token to the other pocket.  Ask her if she needs help, she does.  I jack up
the car, remove the lug nuts and pull the tire.  And pull, and pull.   I see
the scissor jack wobble and decide not to pull harder:)  I tapped the tire
with the toe of my shoe.  Kicked the tire.  Donkey-kicked the tire.
Multiple times.  Got the tire iron and tapped the rim a few times in hopes
that some vibration would free it.  Whacked the rim a few times out of
frustration.  Kicked tire a few more times for spite.  Turned the steering
wheel so the edge of the tire was out in plain view.  Kicked it some more.
Harder.  Damn thing wouldn't budge.  Rotor didn't look rusted, and she said
the car had been serviced in the last 3-4 months.  Searched her trunk for
baseball bat, golf club, etc.  Search unsuccessful.  Kicked tire some more
for lack of baseball bat, which would have been used to beat tire to a blood
pulp for being so uncooperative.  Finally gave up and said, "That thing's
not coming off anytime soon.  Can I give you a ride to a gas station or
something?"   She of course refused; can't say I blame her, given what you
see on the news every day.  I walk back to my car cursing steel rims and
rotors in general.

- --Erik

P.S.  If anyone actually thinks that I carry my Boy Scout token around with
me (or for that matter know where it is), well...  that's pretty funny ;)

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
- ------                                             ----------
"Scripture does not teach science, period. Genesis tells us
what happened in the archaic, pre-scientific idiom of the
ancient Hebrews. It does not tell us how it happened. We can
learn what we can about that "how" from science, always
keeping in mind that there can be no real conflict between
two very different orders of knowledge: science and theology."

         --George Sim Johnston   "The Pope and Evolution"
- -------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:15:35 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Specs? and year to purchase

On '95 cars, the power sunroof and ECS are mutually exclusive.  You can
only have one.  You can get ECS with a manual sunroof though.  Maybe
someone can enlighten us about the '96's.

Ken

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Ron Thompson responded to:
>
> > > 1994 was the last year for the ECS...
>
> with
>
> >
> >
> > Not really, I looked at a 95 VR4 before I bought my 96 and it had ESC.
> >
>
> I think you're right Ron....there seemed to be overlap of production with changes being
> phased in, so that a couple of months could mean the difference between having this
> feature in 95, or not. In this case likely both statements are true (or both are
> false).  The Stealth line was the same, and although officially it was  announced that
> they were to be discontinued at the end of 95, they were selling a small run 96 modles
> until all were gone. I have yet to determine if any differences existed between these
> two years in the case of the Stealth, as I haven't seen a 96. Personally, I suspect not!
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 09:18:15 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel problem

When the wheel is that stubborn, you can loosen the lug nuts (i.e.
finger tight) the roll the car a little.  That will usually break the
wheel free.

Ken

"Gross, Erik" wrote:
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheel problem
> >
> > When you remove all 5 lugs, try kicking (lightly) one side of
> > the sidewall of the tire.  Sometimes due to weather elements
> > and normal wear, the wheel can actually "stick" to the rotor,
> > and it'll seem as if it won't come off.  This happens to me
> > sometimes, and I usually give the bottom of the tire a quick
> > jolt - usually it's enough to brake it free.
>
> Just as a FYI, an experience I had a couple weeks ago:
>
> Driving down the road, see woman and kid next to their car Stanza(?) with a
> flat tire.  Figure I could do my "good turn" and get to switch my Boy Scout
> token to the other pocket.  Ask her if she needs help, she does.  I jack up
> the car, remove the lug nuts and pull the tire.  And pull, and pull.   I see
> the scissor jack wobble and decide not to pull harder:)  I tapped the tire
> with the toe of my shoe.  Kicked the tire.  Donkey-kicked the tire.
> Multiple times.  Got the tire iron and tapped the rim a few times in hopes
> that some vibration would free it.  Whacked the rim a few times out of
> frustration.  Kicked tire a few more times for spite.  Turned the steering
> wheel so the edge of the tire was out in plain view.  Kicked it some more.
> Harder.  Damn thing wouldn't budge.  Rotor didn't look rusted, and she said
> the car had been serviced in the last 3-4 months.  Searched her trunk for
> baseball bat, golf club, etc.  Search unsuccessful.  Kicked tire some more
> for lack of baseball bat, which would have been used to beat tire to a blood
> pulp for being so uncooperative.  Finally gave up and said, "That thing's
> not coming off anytime soon.  Can I give you a ride to a gas station or
> something?"   She of course refused; can't say I blame her, given what you
> see on the news every day.  I walk back to my car cursing steel rims and
> rotors in general.
>
> --Erik
>
> P.S.  If anyone actually thinks that I carry my Boy Scout token around with
> me (or for that matter know where it is), well...  that's pretty funny ;)
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT 49k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
> ------                                             ----------
> "Scripture does not teach science, period. Genesis tells us
> what happened in the archaic, pre-scientific idiom of the
> ancient Hebrews. It does not tell us how it happened. We can
> learn what we can about that "how" from science, always
> keeping in mind that there can be no real conflict between
> two very different orders of knowledge: science and theology."
>
>          --George Sim Johnston   "The Pope and Evolution"
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 13:27:11 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wheel problem

Curt,

Try loosening the lug nuts and rock the car side to side.  I've had the
problem before, but with steel wheels not aluminum...

Mark

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
     Mark Wendlandt     Honeywell CASSPO-Development
     Phone:  957-3736     Pager: 601-0881                    
     Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com         
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



- -----Original Message-----
From: Gendron, Curt [mailto:Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 25, 1999 7:58 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject: Team3S: Wheel problem


Hey everyone,

I need some help from the mechanics out there.  I was messing around with my
Stealth and Eclipse the other night and I wanted to see if the 18 inch rims
would fit on my Eclipse.  So I jacked up both cars and took the wheel off of
the Stealth.  And I took all of the lug nuts off the wheel of my Eclipse,
but the wheel would not come off.  It was strange, it was like the lug nuts
where still on there.  I pulled as hard as I could but it wouldn't budge.
Am I missing something obvious here??  All five lug nuts are completly off
and the tire is off the ground.  What gives??  The rim has a plastic cap in
the center.  Is there some kind of pin underneath that or something??  The
Eclipse is a 96 GSX with the spiral rims.  I've taken wheels off of cars
before, but never had a problem like this before.  Anyone have suggestions
on how to pry the wheel off, or is there something else I need to do?

Please help a novice mechanic,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 13:52:12 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Green Tape Hose

The other day I was visiting a race car museum and noticed something I
think might solve my air link problem for good. While, I was in the
museum I noticed a turbo charged race car.  I decided to take a closer
look and to my surprise it had a  V 6 engine. After closer examination
of the turbo (it was a huge one by the way) I noticed that all the
piping had this hard rubber like hose on all the joints, holding the
rubber in place were some metal claps. I thought to myself that might
solve my leak problem for good. So later on that week, I went by to see
the guys at the, Porsche shop and ask them where could I get this hose.
So they took me to another bay in the shop and showed me one of their
race cars and asked me is this the kind of hose you are looking for? I
said yes. They informed me that this rubber hose was called green taped
hose and that I could buy it at  this speed shop in my area. I hope it
solves the problem. I think if it could hold 40psi from his race car
then it should work for me.




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 13:57:10 -0700
From: "Tracy, Austin" <austin.tracy@rez.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Green Tape Hose

if there is a problem with hoses slipping off or rupturing, I would suggest
getting some silicone intake piping joint hose.  Turbonettics sells it in
different diameters, even tapering adaptors.  as for the clamps.  I ONLY use
T-bar metal clamps for my intake piping.  I have had too many intake hoses
blow off to count.

Austin T

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ricardo Cousar [mailto:rcousar@uswest.com]
> Sent: Thursday, February 25, 1999 1:52 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Green Tape Hose
>
>
> The other day I was visiting a race car museum and noticed something I
> think might solve my air link problem for good. While, I was in the
> museum I noticed a turbo charged race car.  I decided to take a closer
> look and to my surprise it had a  V 6 engine. After closer examination
> of the turbo (it was a huge one by the way) I noticed that all the
> piping had this hard rubber like hose on all the joints, holding the
> rubber in place were some metal claps. I thought to myself that might
> solve my leak problem for good. So later on that week, I went
> by to see
> the guys at the, Porsche shop and ask them where could I get
> this hose.
> So they took me to another bay in the shop and showed me one of their
> race cars and asked me is this the kind of hose you are looking for? I
> said yes. They informed me that this rubber hose was called
> green taped
> hose and that I could buy it at  this speed shop in my area. I hope it
> solves the problem. I think if it could hold 40psi from his race car
> then it should work for me.
>
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #110
****************************

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