--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #108
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
February 23 1999 Volume 01 : Number
108
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:37:26 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Switching to synethic
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Don Kessler [mailto:dgkessler@ameritech.net]
Sent:
Sunday, February 21, 1999 4:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Switching to synethic
I plan on switching to synethic motor oil
on my 1993 R/T TT. Is there
any special process that I should perform, like
flushing the engine. If
so, how would I proceed.
Thanks for your
help,
Don
====================================
Don...
I
recently used Motor Flush prior to changing my oil. It definitely cleaned
out
deposits that don't come out with a normal change. I was told at the
auto
parts store that the flush is kerosene. Some might argue that this
could
deteriorate the seals and gaskets, but I believe for a turbocharged
engine,
where there can be a coking (cooking?) effect of the original dino
oil on the
bearings, it's a good idea especially when changing from dino to
synthetic,
or if you believe additives (like Slick 50) have been used in the
past.
BTW...my light lifter ticking also disappeared after this process,
even
though I'm still using the same 5w-50w Castrol oil with a factory
Mitsu
filter. I wonder if some of the ticking we experience is the result
of
previous additive deposits? Or just burnt dino oil? Or
both?
Anyway, if you decide to use a flush, follow the instructions on
the can. In
the case of Motor Flush, it was five minutes at idle, no driving,
then
drain. I've heard of some that suggest fifteen minutes of driving,
then
drain.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 13:03:13 EST
From: Llags14@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Naturally Aspirated 3000GT on Nitrous
Roger, my goal is to be in the high
13's. But remember, my car is the base
model of 97. It comes
stock with 161 hp and SOHC. I dynoed my car and got
200 to the wheels
w/ 253lbs of torque. I upgraded my fuel pump to the VR-4
fuel pump and
the NOS kit is a dry system. I'm probably going to sell my AFC
b/c it
really doesn't do anything for NOS. I'm thinking about doing head
work
on my car so I can spray a bit more. That and the head work alone
hopefully
will give me some good horsepower. Well, if anyone has
anymore information,
please let me know.
Jorge
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:26:25 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Fuel pump rewire
Has anyone rewired their stock fuel pump to the battery
direct, and if
so have you noted a fuel performance increase, and, was or is
it
possible to cut and splice the existing cables without tearing out
the
interior?????
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 21:19:57 +0100
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Data Logger
> I'd be very happy to see such Data Logger
results pretty
> soon, before I leave the States. I'd be happy to take
the
> Software with me if it works out to be good !
>
> BTW,
Where can I get it ??
The Datalogger is a product by TechnoMotive, I
think the
primary man behind the product is Todd Day. It
costs
US$300. The following are the relevant product
links:
TechnoMotive: http://www.tmo.com/
DataLogger: http://www.tmo.com/prod/datalog/datalogger.htm
Cheers,
Kevin
Clark.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 13:39:32 -0800
From: vect0r0 <vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump rewire
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
> Has
anyone rewired their stock fuel pump to the battery direct, and if
> so
have you noted a fuel performance increase, and, was or is it
> possible
to cut and splice the existing cables without tearing out the
>
interior?????
>
I installed the 90GPH Denso unit and ran a wire
from the battery back to the pump. You
must use an electric switch that
will only conduct the battery current when the car is
ON. When I did
this mod, my pump whined VERY VERY loud! I was worried that it
might
overheat. I went for a run and I seemed to hit fuel cut and
sputtering very early. I
figure that it caused me to actually be too
rich... That was my experience.
> Best
>
>
Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 13:58:18 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump rewire
You (?) responded to my query
below...
>
>
> > Has anyone rewired their stock fuel
pump to the battery direct, and if
> > so have you noted a fuel
performance increase, and, was or is it
> > possible to cut and splice
the existing cables without tearing out the
> >
interior?????
> >
....thusly:
>
>
> I
installed the 90GPH Denso unit and ran a wire from the battery back to the
pump. You
> must use an electric switch that will only conduct the
battery current when the car is
> ON. When I did this mod, my pump
whined VERY VERY loud! I was worried that it might
> overheat.
I went for a run and I seemed to hit fuel cut and sputtering very early.
I
> figure that it caused me to actually be too rich... That was my
experience.
Thanks for the input. Have you solved the wine problem, and
have you reset the ECU to see
if it will reprogram the fuel delivery curve??
It may be operating on old parameters. Also,
is this on a stock system (ie
Stock turbos, stock injectors) BC's not
withstanding?
Thanks
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 17:23:57 -0600
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel pump rewire
> Thanks for the input. Have you solved the wine
problem,
> and have you reset the ECU to see if it will reprogram
>
the fuel delivery curve?? It may be operating on old
> parameters. Also,
is this on a stock system (ie Stock
> turbos, stock injectors) BC's not
withstanding?
Why do you guys reset the ECU to try to have it relearn the
fuel curves?
The ECU never stops trying to optimize its trim tables, so just
driving the
car around for a while should get the same or better results
since it will
at least have a learned baseline to start modifying from.
Just seems like a
lot of voodoo to reset the ECU all the time. Am I
missing something?
- -Matt
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:27:46 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Team3S:
Fuel pump rewire
<< at least have a learned baseline to start
modifying from. Just seems like
a
lot of voodoo to reset the ECU
all the time. Am I missing something?
-
-Matt
>>
By resetting the ecu I think since it knows
it is starting from scratch that
it adjusts a bit more radically then if you
let it adjust itself from a "warm"
ecu.
Xannieria
3SI #130
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:47:04 -0500
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
First the Stealth stuff...my
"coolant" light (the "Parthenon" light) stays
on all the time,
yet it runs
cool enough and has plenty of fluid. Occasionally it goes off,
but it is on
most of the time. Anyone know what could cause this? And how
do I fix
it?
The off-topic stuff: HELP! Anyone here from the Columbus Ohio area?
PLEASE
e-mail me privately! I need to ask a medium-size
favor!
Robyn
cirrus@shore.intercom.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 16:48:50 -0700
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Offtopic
(SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
Did you fill your overflow reservoir, it needs
at least to be half
filled with antifreeze this will eliminate the bar
light.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stealth [mailto:cirrus@shore.intercom.net]
Sent:
Monday, February 22, 1999 4:47 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
First the Stealth
stuff...my "coolant" light (the "Parthenon" light)
stays
on all the
time,
yet it runs cool enough and has plenty of fluid. Occasionally it
goes
off,
but it is on most of the time. Anyone know what could cause
this? And
how
do I fix it?
The off-topic stuff: HELP! Anyone here
from the Columbus Ohio area?
PLEASE
e-mail me privately! I need to ask a
medium-size favor!
Robyn
cirrus@shore.intercom.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 15:53:38 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Coolant light
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stealth
[mailto:cirrus@shore.intercom.net]
Sent:
Monday, February 22, 1999 3:47 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
First the Stealth stuff...my
"coolant" light (the "Parthenon" light) stays
on all the time,
yet it runs
cool enough and has plenty of fluid. Occasionally it goes off,
but it is on
most of the time. Anyone know what could cause this? And how
do I fix
it?
Robyn
cirrus@shore.intercom.net
==========================================
Robyn...
Check
the wiring to the switch on the overflow bottle. Sounds like a
short,
partially broken wire, bad switch, or poor connection.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 16:05:51 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
I have this problem as
well, had it checks three times since the light
started to be my constant
companion...Always perfect fluid level and
quality, it's been at least a
couple years since I had it changed, so that's
next approach, but all three
mechanics siad it looks fine, including factory
guy...Argh
-
-Bill
>Did you fill your overflow reservoir, it needs at
least to be half
>filled with antifreeze this will eliminate the bar
light.
>
>
>
>First the Stealth stuff...my "coolant"
light (the "Parthenon" light)
>stays
>on all the time,
>yet it
runs cool enough and has plenty of fluid. Occasionally it
goes
>off,
>but it is on most of the time. Anyone know what could
cause this? And
>how
>do I fix it?
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:05:22 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VPC Woe's (Data Logger)
I'd be very happy to see such Data
Logger results pretty soon, before I
leave the States. I'd be happy to take
the Software with me if it works
out to be good !
BTW, Where can I get
it ??
[Brian Danley] Well I think from Todd Day of the DSM community.
DSM.org
He has made a harness that fits most DSM's and can log fuel
and air over
the whole RPM range. I think it does a query on the ECU
and get as much
info as it can. You'll need a laptop and the harness
and the software
(some where around $300-$350 US).
Brian Danley
wrote:
> I took a totally different VPC and tried several chips in
it. Same thing
> CE light and no boost. I thought the 550 chip
was the "bad" chip because
> it fouled my plugs... nope! It's the
only one that works! No CE light
and
> I'm boosting up to 1.28
bar!
So what was the problem at last ? You changed the plugs and with
another
VPC you got the same results and then not ? Sorry, I'm a little
slow
from the 18 hours travel :)
[Brian Danley]
Well it ended up being
that the chips that I was using. By switching VPC
units we eliminated
the VPC as the problem. We then went out and made some
runs with
different chips. Found that only one of the chips I had seemed
to work
with my car. This chip made the Check Engine light go out and the
car
came back to life.
Brian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 19:12:28 EST
From: GC3000GT@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Gregg's
Farewell Address (long)
Hi everybody,
I sent this to the starnet
list yesterday, forgetting that some of you aren't
on that list any
longer. But anyways, yes, the subject is true - the day has
finally
arrived where I will soon no longer be a member of 3SI, the starnet
list, or
Team 3S. It's a day which I thought would never happen. I've put
so
much care, devotion, time and dedication into my beloved '95 3000GT that
I
thought i'd never want to give her up. The car became part of me as
we've
grown closer and closer through the last 4 increadible years of owning
it,
however, the time to move on (for me anyways) is now.
For
those interested in knowing what I am moving on to, well - i'm sure I'll
be
upsetting alot of you when I say that I just signed the papers for a 1999
BWM
M3 this weekend. I'm not giving up my passion or love for the 3000GT
or
Stealth in any way, it's just time for me to move into something a
little
different, and the M3 happens to be the car of choice right now.
But for
those who can appreciate the M3 for what it is, all I can say is
this:
"JEESUS - what a car!" For those people I do know personally, or
those just
generally interested....feel free to email me privately and i'll
gladly tell
you all about it!!
For those interested, my '95 3000GT is
actually up for sale right now. If any
of you in the Boston area are
seriously interested, let me know asap as I will
have current ads running in
various locations, and i'm sure I won't have
trouble selling the car.
For those of you who DO know my car - I think you can all agree that it
is
definitely one of a kind. I've won "Best Overall Modified
3000GT/Stealth" at
the last 2 October Quickenings and mods such as my custom
stereo, aftermarket
leather, powered aftermarket sunroof and 18" VR4 Chrome
Rims definitely made
heads turn. Many of you also know that I am
seriously into detailing, and my
car has very RARELY seen a dirty day.
I'm actually pretty pathetic when it
comes to how meticulous I can be with
detailing my car. I'd always have half
a hatch worth of cleaning
supplies, and I can't tell you how many hours i've
actually spent washing the
car. An average of 3 washings per week should give
you some idea of the
condition of the car. All in all - I highly doubt you'll
ever see a
cleaner daily driver anywhere around. For more info on the car,
check
out it's website at: <A
HREF="http://members.tripod.com/gcouture/my3k
">http://members.tripod.com/gcouture/my3k</A>
The car currently has 54K miles on it, has had it's clutch replaced at
35K,
brakes done around 25K, and is in definite mint condition. Kelly's
Blue Book
on the car is over $17K, and with all the customization, time,
effort, and
care i've put in the car, I feel very strongly about asking
$18,500 for the
car (price does not include 18" rims). Of course there
is room to haggle, and
I will definitley be more lienient towards other
3000GT/Stealth owners if any
of you are seriously interested. However,
to the untrained prospective 3000GT
buyer, I find it hard to believe they
would pass this car up over another.
She's been a great ride - i'm going to
miss her dearly.
However, I would now like to take the time to say a
goodbye to all the friends
and wonderful people i've come into contact with
while being a member on this
list and 3SI. I've met a lot of you
through gatherings and through emails
(you all know who you are - there are
too many names to list!), and i've
enjoyed every minute i've spent with you
all. The gatherings were always
increadible, you guys are ALWAYS a
blast to hang with (even in Ocean City
during a continually rainy weekend)
and i'm definitely still going to attend
all upcoming New England
Gatherings....i'll just be without the essential
thing - the
3000GT. But after all - friends are friends, and i've
definitley
made more than a few from my time here on the 3/S
lists.
I'll still keep my website active (http://members.tripod.com/gcouture),
as I
said, I can never give up my love for the 3000GT. The gatherings
page, the
detailing page, my own 3000GT's modifications page, and most
importantly to
all of you - the 3000GT/Stealth Identification Vinyl Graphics
page will all
remain intact. However- please check back often, as I
plan to begin to post a
whole new era in my automotive
history:
Project: 1999 M3!!! >:) (Doctor Evil grin
complete with pinky to bottom
lip).
I will still remain on the
list for a few more weeks (actually, I'm going to
miss the 100+ emails a
day!), I will still check in on the message boards,
will still always be up
for 3000GT/Stealth chat anytime! But I just wanted to
inform you all at
once, that I am infact leaving the group somewhat soon.
Take care, have a
GREAT time at OCV (for those of you not sure of going -
there isn't an option
- you HAVE to go!!!), and I will still see most of you
here and there.
Thanks for the great times,
Gregg 3SI# 0015
PS - my new email
address will now be: GRCouture@aol.com Please
update your
buddy lists and address books!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 16:58:58 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump rewire
Matt;
> You wrote:
>
> Why
do you guys reset the ECU to try to have it relearn the fuel curves?
> The
ECU never stops trying to optimize its trim tables, so just driving the
>
car around for a while should get the same or better results since it
will
> at least have a learned baseline to start modifying from.
Just seems like a
> lot of voodoo to reset the ECU all the time. Am
I missing something?
Could be. Then again maybe not. The ECU is a mystery
box, so who really knows. Anyway,
resetting to a scratch baseline minimizes
errors based on conflicting data. It will
establish new baseline information
for itself and not depend on stored false information
which it necessarily
has to first discover to be false. If it takes too long to discover
this, or
possibly does not, you have faulty performance based on data which is
not
specificaly applicable. It seems to be a prudent way to elliminate
possible problems at
the outset. Your approach sounds equally as good from an
intellectual standpoint, but
who knows just how well the ECU does what it's
supposed to do, when you start to
introduce modifications which were not part
of it's genisis.
Best
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 17:05:11 -0800
From: vect0r0 <vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Fuel pump rewire
> > I installed the 90GPH Denso unit
and ran a wire from the battery back to the pump. You
> > must
use an electric switch that will only conduct the battery current when the car
is
> > ON. When I did this mod, my pump whined VERY VERY
loud! I was worried that it might
> > overheat. I went for
a run and I seemed to hit fuel cut and sputtering very early. I
>
> figure that it caused me to actually be too rich... That was my
experience.
>
> Thanks for the input. Have you solved the wine
problem, and have you reset the ECU to see
> if it will reprogram the fuel
delivery curve?? It may be operating on old parameters. Also,
> is this on
a stock system (ie Stock turbos, stock injectors) BC's not
withstanding?
>
> Thanks
>
> Darc
Since I figured
I may ruine the pump, I re-connected the stock wires. I did reset the ECU
by
pulling the battery cable for over 1 hour and then tested again. My
car has 15G's, VPC, EVC
III, 560CC Rc's, etc... I tested the voltage
from the stock wires and it read around 5-6
volts! I was sure the pump
required 12 tho so that's why I tried a wire from the battery to
the
pump. Until I find out more about the pump, I am going to leave it set up
the way it is.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 20:02:50 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
and we are SURE that we are NOT
talking aboutthe windshield washer fluid light
right??? Maybe just for
giggles you should top off your wiper fluid and see if
the light goes off
8)
Xannieria
3SI #130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:30:57 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: ECU
reset WAS: Fuel pump rewire
The biggest reason for restting the ECU is to
clear the long term fuel trim
parameters which are not quickly adjusted by
the ECU. Short term fuel trims
are adjusted everytime you drive the car
and vary as you drive. Short term
fuel trims are summed with the long
term trims to come up with an overall
trim. It really only matter if
one has modified the fuel delivery system in
a radical sort of way for which
the ECU may overcompensate.
I can't recall offhand the whens and whys of
long term fuel trim adjustments
but maybe someone else can
elaborate.
One example: When excessive detonation is detected for
which the ECU cannot
compensate by timing or boost adjustments then it
assumes there is a bad
tank of fuel and goes into a degenerated mode for
about 300 miles. When the
fuel tank is below 1/4 full the ECU will try
the correct parameters again to
see if things are okay. The gotcha is
that if you always fill up before
getting below 1/4 tank (which is what you
should do anyway to keep the fuel
pump totally submersed for cooling
purposes) the ECU will NEVER try to use
the "correct" parameters.
Resetting is the thing to do when tinkering.
Once stable it should be
fine.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> Why do you
guys reset the ECU to try to have it relearn the fuel curves?
> The ECU
never stops trying to optimize its trim tables, so just
> driving
the
> car around for a while should get the same or better results since
it will
> at least have a learned baseline to start modifying from.
Just
> seems like a
> lot of voodoo to reset the ECU all the
time. Am I missing something?
>
> -Matt
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:36:43 -0700
From: "Tracy, Austin" <austin.tracy@rez.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Air/Water intercooler
actually Freon has been discontinued on new
Autos, and I used it as a common
word for "refrigerant" as most people know
what Freon (R-12) is. the new
refrigerant is R-143 I
think
Austin T
> -----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Sent:
Thursday, February 18, 1999 10:16 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Water intercooler
>
>
>
>
> Austin;
>
> Cool project...not sure if we have enough room
in the 3S TT's
> to get this additional
> stuff sandwiched in
there. Anyone think it's possible? It's
> darn cramped!
Thermo
> wrapping our intercooler piping is the only way I have heard
> of to keep lower temps a
> bit lower until now (scoops
notwithstanding).
>
> Oh... I noted you are charging with
freon...are they still
> allowing use of that in the
> good ole US
of A??
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:42:11 -0700
From: "Tracy, Austin" <austin.tracy@rez.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Air/Water intercooler
Damn, I haven't even spoke to Brice about
it. Actually, I drew up the plans
myself along time ago, though I just
now realized it would work well on the
project MR2 setup.
I
guess great minds think alike..
Talk to you later Brad
Austin
T
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brad Bedell [mailto:bbedell@austin.rr.com]
>
Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 10:04 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Water intercooler
>
>
>
Austin,
>
> Sound idea, the Syclone guys have been doing it for
some time.
>
> Study the results from using copper line with Freon,
along with the
> corrosion properties of copper line. Both are bad
in a long
> term setup (in
> a closed system) I would use
aluminum line instead of
> copper. Funny how I
> drew up
those plans for that Intercooler for Brice about
> 4-4.5 years
ago
> isn't it? To his credit though, I suspect he forgot where he
> got the idea
> from, I know I would have.
>
> Pipe
to pressurize? HAHAHHHAHAH You have not seen anything
> yet my
boy. I
> suspect there is twice more volume to pressurize on the
3000
> than the MR2.
> > Brad
> Member of ESSC since
1999>
> > Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of
> Tracy, Austin
> Sent: Thursday, February 18, 1999
7:26 AM
> To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Water intercooler
>
> Thanks Darc,
>
> Actually what I am doing is using an air/water intercooler on
>
a Project MR2
> Turbo I am building. The reason I am doing this is
a:, I
> have a spearco
> air/water intercooler laying around, b:
the airflow through
> the intercooler
> location on a MR2 is quite
poor, and c: the piping from the
> turbo to the
> intercooler, then
from the intercooler to the TB is like 3
> feet. An awful
>
lot of volume to pressurize. So what the initial builder of
> the
car did
> (Norwood Autocraft and Alamo Autosport) was to mount a air to
water
> intercooler directly between the turbo and the TB. This
> would reduce the
> amount of intake plumbing to pressurize as
well as allow a
> heat exchanger
> for the intercooler to be
mounted up front.
>
> Well, that was step one. Step two
involves attempting to make the
> intercooler charge temperature as low as
possible. As you may know,
> air/water intercoolers do the cooling
of the water when off
> boost, as water
> flows through the heat
exchanger it cools, then is stored in
> a reservoir
> mounted
remotely (mine is in the rear trunk). Well, this
> water is
usually
> at around 90-100 degrees during high boost loads and 70-80
> degrees when off
> boost (approximately ambient temp here in
AZ). My plan is to
> run a long
> section of copper tubing
coiled through the reservoir and
> then route a Freon
> line with
orifice valve to the copper tubing. this would
> make the
reservoir
> act like a standard office cooler, hopefully dropping the
> water temperature
> 20 or more degrees. this in turn would
cool the intake
> charge even more.
> As you know, the cooler the
intake charge, the denser the
> air, the more
> power.
>
> I'm not too sure how this kind of setup would work on a 3S
>
Turbo as I am
> just learning the layout of the car.
>
>
Well, Talk to you later,
>
> Austin T
>
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> >
Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 6:58 PM
> > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
> >
> >
> >
Roger;
> >
> > Thanks for the great WI update, for your take
on it, and for
> > the links. It should give
> > me something
to chew on during the dreary wet dimness of
> > these Vancouver
Island
> > pre-Spring days.
> >
> > Austin (private
communication) briefly mentioned to me that
> > he used the
airconditioner
> > to channel cool air to the intercooler as a mod he
performed
> > on a non 3S turbo. How
> > about elaborating a
bit on this Austin...we can kick it a
> > round a bit and see if
it's
> > feasible with our cars?
> >
> > Darc
>
>
> > 92 Black Stealth TT
> >
> >
>
>
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> >
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 19:47:51 -0800
From: Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pump rewire
> I was sure the pump required 12 tho so
that's why I tried a wire from the battery to
> the pump. Until I
find out more about the pump, I am going to leave it set up the way it
is.
As far as I know (I don't have the manual handy) the fuel pump is
controlled by the ECU. That's why
products, like Boost-A-Pump increase
voltage from a programmable level on. Just use a comparator on
the stock
lines that switches on a relays to make a direct wire working. Set it around 11
volts or
so. Check this with a volt meter that records the max voltage and
drive the car around to check out
the max
value.
Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 23:07:06 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
The coolant level sensor
is picky. Make sure the reservoir is filled
to right level. Also check your
washer fluid level, it will trigger it
too.
I'm in Cinti area so I
don't know if I can help but, What's up?
Ron
96VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 23:10:15 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: VPC Woe's (Data Logger)
Isn't this only good on the pre
95's?
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 22:08:16 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VPC Woe's (Data Logger)
Isn't this only good on the pre
95's?
Ron
[Brian Danley]
Yes
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 21:30:57 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
VPC Woe's (Data Logger)
Actually it is only good on the 91-93
models. It doesn't work on the '94s
unfortunately. The 1994
models went to the ODB-II style diagnostics port
and a quasi ODB-II
protocol.
When I asked Todd about it a ways back he said if I recall
correctly that he
had tried it on a '94 and the protocol was too different to
bother with at
that time.
It is too bad since this would be an
invaluable tuning tool :\
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Isn't this only good on the pre
95's?
>
> Ron
>
> [Brian Danley]
> Yes
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 22 Feb 1999 22:47:32 -0600
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
Subject: Team3S:
CD Changer Compatability
My new 96 R/T TT's CD changer is missing and I'm
looking at replacing it
with an aftermarket unit. I've found adapters on the
net for the Pioneer
model CDX-M30 and heard of good results with this player.
From what I
can gather the Pioneer is almost an exact copy of the stock unit.
Cost
for the changer is $289 + Shipping. Here are the adapter
sites;
http://www.stinger-aamp.com/peripheral/pcat1/pcat1_3.htm
http://www.pie.net/oemappl.htm
My
local audio shop recommended the cheaper Alpine CHM-S611 and an
adapter that
they carry. They're asking too much for it though ($300),
and I found it much
cheaper on the net. Question is, has anyone used or
heard of any one that
used the Alpine unit successfully? I'd hate to
order it and have to send it
back. Cost for the Alpine is $270 + $15
Shipping.
Trevor
96 R/T TT
(His)
91 R/T TT (Hers)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Feb 1999 00:46:53 EST
From: Llags14@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
This happened to me to in my
3000GT. All it was, was the sensor was loose.
Take it back to the
dealership and have them plug it in the right way. Unless
you know how
to do it yourself. To me, it was coming on mostly when I
was
braking.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Feb 1999 00:52:26 -0500
From: "Marc Spinale" <mspinale@mediaone.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Antifeeze
What is the best product these days? Is
Prestone still a good choice???
- -marc
93 VR4
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
> wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Sent: Monday,
February 22, 1999 12:24 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S:
Antifeeze
>
>
> Group
>
> I recently heard some
horror stories coming from a Ford dealership about
> how bad some
aluminium engines there had been damaged from infrequent
> (rather than
regular) change of antifreeze. This had me somewhat
> concerned given our
own mostly aluminium engines, so I did a private
> survey of some of our
more noted members, who had taken apart their
> engines for rebuilds. I
was particularly intereseted if any had noticed
> the corrosion and bad
acid etching caused by antifreeze as per this
> Service
Manager's discription. The answers: all the 3S engines looked
> new
(exception being a few unrelated pistons) However, this is the
> second
time I have encountered bad stories about antifreeze and it's
> effects on
aluminum...so change yours ever year or two just to be safe.
>
>
Best
>
> Darc
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Feb 1999 04:52:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Fwd: zj-list Interesting Reading...
Thought you might find this
informative for you guys who use the
following products on your current or
other vehicles.
- ---Chris Foote <darkangel@map.com> wrote:
>
>
zj-list
>
> Chris Foote <darkangel@map.com>
>
Pennzoil-Quaker State Company Announces Withdrawal of Its
Fix-A-Flat(R)
Tire
>
Inflator Products
>
> HOUSTON, Feb. 18
/PRNewswire/ -- Pennzoil-Quaker State Company
(NYSE:
> PZL) announced
today that it is voluntarily withdrawing all of its
> Fix-A-Flat(R) tire
inflator products. The company is immediately
> withdrawing the
products because it recently learned of a tire
safety issue
> involving
practices that are inconsistent with safe automotive tire
repair
>
procedures and contrary to explicit warnings on each Fix-A-Flat(R)
>
automotive tire inflator product label. Reformulated
Fix-A-Flat(R)
tire
> inflator products will be on store shelves
nationwide within a few
weeks.
>
> In
rare instances, an explosion may occur if a tire repaired
with the
>
Fix-A-Flat(R) tire inflator product is subjected to extreme heat
by
welding
> on, or applying a flame to, the wheel rim with the tire
still on the
rim.
> The products included in this voluntary withdrawal
are: Fix-A-Flat(R)
> cone-top cans; Fix-A-Flat(R) cans; Super
Fix-A-Flat(R) cans, and Big
> Wheel(TM) Fix-A-Flat(R) cans.
>
> CONSUMER INSTRUCTIONS:
>
> -- Consumers who have purchased Fix-A-Flat(R)
tire inflator
products
>
should call the Fix-A-Flat(R) toll-free Consumer
Products
Information
> Line
to return old products to Pennzoil-Quaker State Company
and
to
> receive reformulated
products at no cost. The
toll-free
number,
>
800-532-5000, operates 24 hours each day, seven days a week.
>
> -- Consumers should not use or throw away old
Fix-A-Flat(R) tire
inflator
>
products.
>
> The company has contacted its
retailers and distributors to
inform them
> of the voluntary product
withdrawal, ask for their assistance in
removing
> Fix-A-Flat(R) tire
inflator products from their retail outlets and
> warehouses, and return
of all products to the Pennzoil-Quaker State
Company.
>
> Pennzoil-Quaker State Company has informed the
National Highway
Traffic
> Safety Administration (NHTSA) and the
Consumer Product Safety
Commission
> (CPSC) about this matter.
Pennzoil-Quaker State Company is
committed to
> the highest quality and
safety standards for all of its products.
> Protecting the safety and
health of consumers, customers, employees
and the
> community is
fundamental to the way the company conducts its business.
>
> TRADE INSTRUCTIONS:
>
> It is important for automotive tire repair and
maintenance
technicians
> and consumers to remember to consistently
practice commonly accepted
safety
> procedures in repairing a
tire.
>
> -- Pennzoil-Quaker State Company
reminds automotive tire
repair
and
> maintenance
technicians and consumers of commonly
accepted
safety
> procedures
to follow in repairing a tire regardless of
whether a
tire
> inflator product is
used:
>
> -- Work only in
an open, well-ventilated area.
>
> -- Do not smoke.
>
> -- Fully deflate the
tire. If you are uncertain about the
presence
in
> the tire
of the contents of a tire inflator product,
you
should
>
assume one may be present.
>
> -- Never weld on a rim
without first removing the tire from
the rim.
>
> -- Do not expose the tire to
extreme heat, flames or sparks
whether
on
> the wheel
rim or not.
>
> -- Pennzoil-Quaker State
Company is distributing guidelines for
safe
tire
> repair practices, at no
charge, to retailers and
automotive
repair
>
companies.
>
> -- The company also is
reminding employees in its franchised
and
licensed
> retail
operations of safe tire repair practices.
>
> This press release is also available on the
Pennzoil-Quaker State
> Company website at: www.pennzoilquakerstate.com.
>
> SOURCE Pennzoil-Quaker State Company
>
> Copyright
1999 PR Newswire. All rights reserved.
>
==
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
_________________________________________________________
DO
YOU YAHOO!?
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Feb 1999 08:44:40 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
Have you checked the
washer fluid resivior. The two lights look
very
similar.......
At 06:47 PM 2/22/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>
>First the Stealth stuff...my "coolant" light (the
"Parthenon" light) stays
>on all the time,
>Anyone know what
could cause this? And how do I fix it?
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 23 Feb 1999 09:02:07 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
I thought of that if he
didn't and it was no help...Not that it couldn't be
the faulty sensor just as
easily as the coolant sensor...
- -Bill
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Offtopic (SORRY!!!) +Coolant light
>and we are SURE that we are
NOT talking aboutthe windshield washer fluid
light
>right??? Maybe just
for giggles you should top off your wiper fluid and see
if
>the light
goes off 8)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #108
****************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm