--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #106
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest       Saturday, February 20 1999       Volume 01 : Number 106




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 18:23:02 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine oil: turbo vs. lifter wear

Paul;

Take all the advise you can find and then make up your own mind. A  kind wise man once
offered me that advise, and I have followed it since.

The Mobil 1 (10-30) you are using, is what I use, and is what I recommend to anyone; TT
or NA owners alike. In the TT's it is resistant to high temperatures and does not cook
like the fossil products. It has great lubrication qualities, does not break down as
readily, and is as I noted, resistant to high heat. I can see no reason why you or
anyone would be concerned with lifter problems unless you/they were running a weight
that was too thin for the conditions. Changing any oil regularly is the key to engine
health and longevity. I am always surprised to see some who stretch frequency on their
changes, when the cost is really nominal and if done yourself,  equal to or  less than
a  fillup.

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:03:54 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Water intercooler

Austin,

Sound idea, the Syclone guys have been doing it for some time.

Study the results from using copper line with Freon, along with the
corrosion properties of copper line.  Both are bad in a long term setup (in
a closed system)  I would use aluminum line instead of copper.  Funny how I
drew up those plans for that Intercooler for Brice about 4-4.5 years ago
isn't it?  To his credit though, I suspect he forgot where he got the idea
from, I know I would have.

Pipe to pressurize? HAHAHHHAHAH  You have not seen anything yet my boy.  I
suspect there is twice more volume to pressurize on the 3000 than the MR2.
> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Tracy, Austin
Sent: Thursday, February 18, 1999 7:26 AM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Water intercooler

Thanks Darc,

Actually what I am doing is using an air/water intercooler on a Project MR2
Turbo I am building.  The reason I am doing this is a:, I have a spearco
air/water intercooler laying around, b: the airflow through the intercooler
location on a MR2 is quite poor, and c: the piping from the turbo to the
intercooler, then from the intercooler to the TB is like 3 feet.  An awful
lot of volume to pressurize.  So what the initial builder of the car did
(Norwood Autocraft and Alamo Autosport) was to mount a air to water
intercooler directly between the turbo and the TB.  This would reduce the
amount of intake plumbing to pressurize as well as allow a heat exchanger
for the intercooler to be mounted up front.

Well, that was step one.  Step two involves attempting to make the
intercooler charge temperature as low as possible.  As you may know,
air/water intercoolers do the cooling of the water when off boost, as water
flows through the heat exchanger it cools, then is stored in a reservoir
mounted remotely (mine is in the rear trunk).  Well, this water is usually
at around 90-100 degrees during high boost loads and 70-80 degrees when off
boost (approximately ambient temp here in AZ).  My plan is to run a long
section of copper tubing coiled through the reservoir and then route a Freon
line with orifice valve to the copper tubing.  this would make the reservoir
act like a standard office cooler, hopefully dropping the water temperature
20 or more degrees.  this in turn would cool the intake charge even more.
As you know, the cooler the intake charge, the denser the air, the more
power.

I'm not too sure how this kind of setup would work on a 3S Turbo as I am
just learning the layout of the car.

Well, Talk to you later,

Austin T

> -----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Sent: Wednesday, February 17, 1999 6:58 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
>
>
> Roger;
>
> Thanks for the great WI update, for your take on it, and for
> the links. It should give
> me something to chew on during the dreary wet dimness of
> these Vancouver Island
> pre-Spring days.
>
> Austin (private communication) briefly mentioned to me that
> he used the airconditioner
> to channel cool air to the intercooler as a mod he performed
> on a non 3S turbo. How
> about elaborating a bit on this Austin...we can kick it a
> round a bit and see if it's
> feasible with our cars?
>
> Darc
>
> 92 Black Stealth TT
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:04:19 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Vr-4 to automatic?

Wow - this is too funky.  After work tonight I stopped into a local stereo
shop.  While talking to the guy about stereos he started talking about
performance stuff and such.  He was telling me that his buddy has a 3S turbo
car with an automatic.  I was pushing him pretty har on this point telling
him there is just not such a thing.  I even tried to suggest he might be
talking about an Eclipse.  He maintained his story that this car is
definitely a 3000 or Stealth and does indeed have turbos and an auto.  He
was pretty sure it was a Stealth and not a 3000 GT.

Now I'll surely have to go back for some more details.  I'll let you guys
know what i find out.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT (6sp man)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric Lotter <elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 10:01
Subject: Re: Team3S: Vr-4 to automatic?


>The person seling the car was the second owner, and did not know if the
>Tranny had been swaped, or if it had come from the factory that way. He
>knew very little about the car except that the automatics were very rare
>in the TT class. I just didn't believe the ad so I had to take a look at
>it.
>
>Very nice car, and a totally different launch with a brakestand in stead
>of dropping the clutch.
>
>Some things that makes me think it was a factory automatic: Same setup
>as the N/A autos, with the PWR button and the Over drive button
>fuctioning.
>
>Now my theory: I have had experiences with one time, or special order
>setups from the factory, when my sister bought her 82 Monte Carlo TURBO,
>to find out it was a Pre- Grand NAtional, special ordered by a high
>volume Chevy dealer for his Son, one of only two ever made.
>
>These AUTOMATIC TT 3S cars may fall into the same catagory, undocumeted
>special cars with VINS that would match a 5 speed tranny, that
>executives had made for them.
>
>I have a couple of people digging, but probably won't find much.
>
>Eric
>
>
>>From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
>>Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:45:26 -0800
>>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>Subject: Re: Team3S: Vr-4 to automatic?
>>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>
>>Hey Eric;
>>
>>Was this a new vehicle at the time? Any chance it had been upgraded to
>an automatic? I
>>know, I  know, whatya mean "upgraded"...however an automatic might seem
>like a good deal
>>to some experiencing Getrag blues. Didn't know they made them, but then
>again, didn't
>>know about a speed limiter (if one exists).
>>
>>Best
>>
>>Darc
>>
>>Eric Lotter wrote:
>>
>>> I have never heard of the automatic VR-4, BUT I have seen and test
>>> driven, an AUTOMATIC RT/TT. The owner was not the original owner, but
>it
>>> lends credence to the fact that there may have been some factory
>>> AUTOMATICS in the TT Class.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> >From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
>>> >To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
><stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>>> >Subject: Team3S: Vr-4 to automatic?
>>> >Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 17:40:44 -0500
>>> >Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>> >
>>> >I was told that there was in very few numbers produced vr-4's in
>>> automatic.
>>> >Has anybody else heard this?  I was wondering since all the
>>> transmission
>>> >seem to go so easily if it might be possible to put a street strip
>>> >transmission in the car and forget about Gretag.  Any information
>would
>>> be
>>> >greatly appreciated.
>>> >Thanks
>>> >Joshua
>>> >3si#0137
>>> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>>> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________
>>> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 23:24:50 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Edit

Hi guys;

Just a reminder to edit before posting a reply. I know I make the odd
error too, and hit the send button before thinking. A case in point is
the current thread on the 3S Twin Turbo automatic...I can keep the last
posting on it and have essentially all the prior postings included in it
(which is why I'm saving it) and delete all the rest. However, this is
not what we're looking for, and it is contravening the rules we agreed
to comply with here. . Please edit. Thanks.

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 18:08:18 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Team3S: VPC Woe's

Well I think we figured out the problems I was having with the VPC.  First
off the 550 program fouled my plugs.  This was due to lack on knowledge on
my part and running them way to rich at idle.  I then took out the 550 chip
and ran the stock chip setup.  This gave me a Check Engine light.  Also
tried a few other chips and had the same result.  After changing the plugs
I took a totally different VPC and tried several chips in it.  Same thing
CE light and no boost.  I thought the 550 chip was the "bad" chip because
it fouled my plugs... nope!  It's the only one that works!  No CE light and
I'm boosting up to 1.28 bar!  yeeehaaa  Casey and I are going to put the
Data Logger on it, do some runs,  and see what is happening to fine tune it
and sort out any other problems.   I'll give you the results when we find
out more.

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 19:45:07 -0800
From: Nick Xiong <nxiong@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S: Antenna Sticking (help!)

Today I noticed the radio antenna is sticking UP and won't come down.
Haven't driven the car in 2 weeks.  What causes this?  and how do I
remedy it?  when I got home I sprayed wd40 over it but still no help.  I
had to manually help the car by pushing down on it until it was free
enough to go all the way, same w/pulling it up.

Help needed, please.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 20:30:33 EST
From: PFloyd91@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antenna Sticking (help!)

Get some 3 In 1 all purpose oil --- a light machine oil, like sewing
machine oil.  Put some on a paper towel and rub it on the antenna.

Try several applications and maybe run a little down the antenna and
work it in.  WD40, while an excellent lubricant in many applications,
was originally developed to remove water -- so sometimes a plain
old oil will work better

John H.
'95 Black 3000GT
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 18:05:44 -0800
From: vect0r0 <vect0r0@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VPC Woe's

Brian Danley wrote:

> CE light and no boost.  I thought the 550 chip was the "bad" chip because
> it fouled my plugs... nope!  It's the only one that works!  No CE light and
> I'm boosting up to 1.28 bar!  yeeehaaa  Casey and I are going to put the

I assume you installed some new plugs.  I think mine may be fouling out gapped at .028 I
believe.  What plugs/gap did you u se to correct this problem?

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 22:25:41 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Antenna Sticking (help!)

The belt is toothed and excessive friction has probably stripped the
teeth off the belt. You can buy just the new mast with the belt for
$35 at a dealer. It is a bit of work to change because you have to
remove most of the trim panels in the cargo area. after that it isn't
to much trouble.

WARNING: you have to remember the antenna position. and if you pull
out the belt when you take out the unit. Test it's operation before
you reassemble or you may have to do it all over again.

Ron
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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #106
****************************

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