--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #97
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest       Wednesday, February 10 1999       Volume 01 : Number 097




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:33:41 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Admin Notice

H i Team;

A recent admin meeting was held in cyberspace. The following ensued.

Personal messages/responses which can be sent privately are absolutely
encouraged!  You may assume from this that even we ( read I ) in admin
are guilty of such infractions, but we ( I ) are reminded of them in the
same manner in which you may expect to be warned. The object is to have
a "friendly technical" forum, with an emphasis on the technical, but not
at the expense of friendship. Everything in moderation/balence.

Vendor postings are becoming a concern. If they become a plague,
something "will" be done. So, my advise personally is to be creative
with your inroads. And, member response to such postings should
absolutely be done privately and not posted to the list.

As always, please take time to edit the post you are responding to...do
not repost the entire post with your response, unless it is merited.

Best

Darc



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 17:49:29 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrades - part 2

> Portmasters is (was?) a "partner" with Brian Lafuente's of GT Alley infamy.
> I do not know if they can still get you a set of headers or not, might have
> to give them a call and see.  My inclination personally would be to forget
> they exist...

Portmasters (owned Charlie Hupp, San Dimas, CA) is still an existing company.
They have been the makers of the products for GT Alley while this name only was
a virtual company. Even the checks or credit cards where paid to Portmasters
during their partnership and Brian had his office in the building from
Portmasters.

Charlie made me a set of the headers last month, long after the problem with
Brian. But I'm almost sure that they are somewhat copied from the IMP parts but
with improvements. Brian himself stated to me that all the parts he offers are
copies but with changes to the bad designs (who really knows).
 
> IMP makes headers but quite frankly they are not as good as one would hope
> or even expect.

Absolutely the same to the Portmasters headers. Outside great .. inside crap!
There is a lot work to do until they are good. Price is also around $1000.

> He makes headers all the time for NA cars.

Also a shop here does NA headers for reasonable prices. I then went to him with
the headers and the car and asked him for the price. As both banks are different
the'll have to make two different designs. Also space is very limited around the
rear area and therefore easy test-fitting is not possible. He finally gave me a
quote around $2000 for a full set, maybe cheaper if I bring another 4 customers
(ouch) und the more I'll bring the less the price will be.

> It does _appear_ that they will offer better top end performance, _possibly_
> better spool up, and they should definitely be better at taking heat away
> from the heads.  I have no idea how well they will hold up though.  Time
> will tell on that one.

Unfortunately, when I'm installing them the big turbos will also find their way
into the engine bay. Therefore no comparison on the dyno is possible :(

> The Trust/Greddy stuff and possibly Bozz Speed may be available if you can

For the price you have to pay you can get a custom exhaust at the highest
quality built locally. The exhaust doesn't really play a big rule but the piping
must be 3" and a good muffler is needed. The thing doesn't help any if you don't
remove the pre-cats.

Good luck,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 12:31:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Admin Notice

OK, but what about multiple postings of "admin notices"?  ;)

Can you discuss more fully (again?) what is and is not acceptable practice
for business-type posting?  I don't want to get plastered with "for sale"
messages, but I like know what's available.  How are we setting that
balance?

Thanks.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

Vital papers will demonstrate their vitality by moving from where you left
them to where you can't find them.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 12:42:54 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Posting

I understand the need to keep personal messages off the list however there
are a few of us who do little or no posting but gain a great deal from the
responses to technical questions that are posted by others.  If these
postings become private the majority of us will not gain the benefit we
recieve from those who are far more knowledgeable.  
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 10:32:39 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Admin Notice

Dennis Moore wrote:

> OK, but what about multiple postings of "admin notices"?  ;)

I'd like to be able to say the double up message was to emphasize the subject
...however, I am uncertain how it occurred. My time stamp shows both were sent at
exactly the same time, so it's a mystery. Unintended  foopaw!

>
>
> Can you discuss more fully (again?) what is and is not acceptable practice
> for business-type posting?  I don't want to get plastered with "for sale"
> messages, but I like know what's available.  How are we setting that
> balance?

"We" in this case, is the group as a whole...it is a gentleman's (gentle person's)
forum, and we collectively expect restraint (everything in moderation/nothing in excess)
to be a consideration that members employ. "IF" for sale signs go up all over the place,
then action will be taken by the admin...so please reread the rules and contemplate the
spirit of those rules. We don't like driving police cars through here and it generally
is not required at all. My Nether Regions infraction  (intended foopaw) is an example
where I should have posted to Barry privately ...but I just couldn't ... mmm wouldn't
:-)  The spirit here at Team 3S is that of friends helping friends, in a highly
technical environment. We like it that way and want to keep it that way, and assume and
hope you do as well. You can contact any of the admin at the addresses posted a week
back in Bob Forrest's' informative administrative posting. We in the admin are all
group/team members but occasionally put on a low profile admin hat to let members know
there is a guiding presence. Otherwise we're as interested as the next guy in the
topics.

About the query over  personal messages noted in the other recent reponse to the Admin
Notice: the concern was that information might not be divulged if private postings are
discouraged. This tech censorship was not the intent of my notice. We encourage all
exchanges of 3S technical information, including thanks, and  postings of follow up
solutions to problems solved privately between members. We do not encourage drivel,
fluff, flames, inane jokes, etc.,  albeit occasional infractions are overlooked given
the spirit of the exchange.

Hope this explanation helps.

Best

Darc (for the 7 admin)

>
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net
>
> Vital papers will demonstrate their vitality by moving from where you left
> them to where you can't find them.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 12:28:48 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo upgrades - part 2

When I said NA I meant normally aspirated cars in general but not
specifically the 3000/Stealth NA cars.  I apologize for any confusion.

That being said, I don't see why this individual could not fabricate headers
for an NA 3/S.  He would have to have one to play with for the duration
though.  He is located in Phoenix, AZ and being primarily a Mustang shop 3/S
cars don't show up there much.  Mine was the first.

If you think this is still worth pursuing let me know.  He is a small shop
and is always very busy to the point where he turns away work.  If there is
sufficient interest it may be worth your while to organize some sort of
group purchase deal with him and see if he'd do it knowing it isn't just a
one-off.  The first set is the set that costs.  Once a jig is set up they
aren't that bad to knock off.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>      Barry,
>
>     You say your exhaust guy makes headers all the time for NA
> cars - if this
> means NA 3000GT's, can you please tell me how I can contact him.
>
>     Thanks,
>
>     SteveC

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 13:28:19 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel pressure, pump (was: Dyno session results !)

> squeezing a bit more out... you can.  That flow rate is at stock rating.
 I
> have increased the pressure by about 10 psi.  This has allowed me about
1-2
> more psi of boost after raising the  fuel pressure.

This sounds good ! But can you please describe what exactly you have done
to the
stock FPR ? Have you replaced it with an adjustable part ?

[Brian Danley]  I would give it a try.. can hurt.  As for the stock FPR I
left it in place.  I installed a  adjustable SX FPR inline after it.  The
stock one will still work (at a lower pressure) so it kinda is over ridden
by the SX. 



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 11:16:04 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrades - part 2 (Trust Offroad Exh)

- ---Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com> wrote:
>
Is the
> Trust/Greddy off road exhaust available? Thanks everyone....
>
> Wayne


I might be one of very few who has the Trust/Greddy off-road exhaust.
I custom ordered from Trust Japan about 3 years back when it was still
available (only in Japan). Last thing I heard it was discontinued. The
unique thing with this exhaust I found very interesting was: with 15G
turbos, when at WOT, you don't hear loud exhaust noise, but a very
high pitched whistle sound; like a plane taking off...
One bad thing about it is it's not made of stainless steel..
otherwise, it's a very well made/designed true turbo back exhaust
system.

George
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 12:37:03 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: About the "For Sale" topic  (WAS: Admin Notice)

How about a for sale board at the Team 3S web site?

I have several items I would like to sell.  I am of course not a vendor but
would at least like the ability to let fellow enthusiasts know what is
available or be able to direct them to a place they can puruse.  A case in
point, I have a For Sale page on my website that I try and update now and
then.  (mumble mumble http://hellsgate.ml.org mumble)

I am also interested in what other individuals have for sale.  If I need or
want something from a vendor I can seek them out.

So what's the protocol?  May individuals post for sale items on the list?
If not can a public board be established?


Regards,

Barry

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 12:42:00 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo upgrades - part 2 (Trust Offroad Exh)

What I think some enterprising individual should do is make knock offs of
your turbo back exhaust.  I have a $479 Jeg's Borla which I have been happy
with for over a year (with Alamo DP) but would very much like to have a true
turbo back solution.  There is a minor difference between the 91-92 and 93+
(or maybe 94+) cars regarding the exhaust -- might be the precats.

Any takers?


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> ---Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com> wrote:
> >
> Is the
> > Trust/Greddy off road exhaust available? Thanks everyone....
> >
> > Wayne
>
>
> I might be one of very few who has the Trust/Greddy off-road exhaust.
> I custom ordered from Trust Japan about 3 years back when it was still
> available (only in Japan). Last thing I heard it was discontinued. The
> unique thing with this exhaust I found very interesting was: with 15G
> turbos, when at WOT, you don't hear loud exhaust noise, but a very
> high pitched whistle sound; like a plane taking off...
> One bad thing about it is it's not made of stainless steel..
> otherwise, it's a very well made/designed true turbo back exhaust
> system.
>
> George

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 14:53:50 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: About the "For Sale" topic  (WAS: Admin Notice)

> How about a for sale board at the Team 3S web site?

Barry,

You should get OUT more!  http://www.3si.org/classifieds/index.htm

OOPS!

- -Bob
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 11:58:52 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Turbo upgrades - part 2 (Trust Offroad Exh)

> What I think some enterprising individual should do is make knock offs of
> your turbo back exhaust.  I have a $479 Jeg's Borla which I have been happy
> with for over a year (with Alamo DP) but would very much like to have a true
> turbo back solution.  There is a minor difference between the 91-92 and 93+
> (or maybe 94+) cars regarding the exhaust -- might be the precats.

Barry,

Don't you have a turbo-back exhaust?  I thought the Alamo downpipe
eliminates the stock precats.  Am I thinking of another downpipe?

Anyway, Rich (merritt@cedar-rapids.net) posted yesterday of his
willingness to fabricate an exhaust for us and solicited input.  I too
asked him if he could do a turbo-back system.  Hopefully Rich will have
a reply soon.

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 13:07:49 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Turbo upgrades - part 2 (Trust Offroad Exh)

I don't know of any American made down pipes that eliminate the precats,
unfortunately.  My exhaust is currently gutted precats, Alamo DP and a Borla
cat back with cat in place.  I am possibly getting precat replacements
fabricated if the guy I have in mind can/will do it for a decent price.

If Rich can pull this off that would be super.  Then I could post a for sale
advert on 3si.org for my Borla and DP  (Thanks Bob - hehe).


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> Barry,
>
> Don't you have a turbo-back exhaust?  I thought the Alamo downpipe
> eliminates the stock precats.  Am I thinking of another downpipe?
>
> Anyway, Rich (merritt@cedar-rapids.net) posted yesterday of his
> willingness to fabricate an exhaust for us and solicited input.  I too
> asked him if he could do a turbo-back system.  Hopefully Rich will have
> a reply soon.
>
> --
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> (619) 455-4510

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 21:05:29 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: Mixture and Dyno Readings

    OK, I will throw my 2 HP in here on the A/F ratio debate.  When we had my car on the
dyno they were able to measure my A/F ratio using some probe they stuck in the exhaust.
During the first two runs the A/F ratio was not measured.  However, during my third run,
the operator was able to measure it.  Keep in mind that I had just regapped my plugs to
.034 and while the engine was at operating temperature, it had not been "driven" at that
temperature before hand.  (there was a 3-1/2 hour wait between runs 1 & 2 and run 3).  I
did not change my boost controller settings but I was running 13 psi versus the previous
(runs 1 &2) 12 bar.  (the operator believed the higher boost was caused by the car being
cooler than the first run).

    Now Barry believes the optimal figure is 12.5:1 however, the dyno operator seemed to
believe it was more like 11.5:1 in turboed cars.  I have no idea who is right here.
However, for those of you contemplating which should come first in the upgrade path here
are some observations.

    When I did my first run my HP peaked at 271 kw (420 HP-SAE).  I have no explanation
for this except that my tires were warmer and gripped the rollers better,  however, this
HP peak was at 5930 RPM and started dropping off from there.  It was clear that the ECU
was sensing detonation.  On my second run, only five minutes later, HP peaked at 263 kw
(408HP-SAE).  I changed nothing between run 1 & 2.  The only thing I did was change my
boost controller (after reaching 5930 RPM) to find the highest HP at 5930 RPM.  Turns
out I was already dialed in (at .85 bar) (remember this is for stock gap of .044). My
EGT was at 880 C (1616 F).  Also, my intake temperatures were the same.  (104 F at idle,
peaking to 213 F at max RPM)

    After regapping the boost peaked at 13 psi (.89 bar) however, the performance at
higher RPMs was different.  Peak HP happened at 6230  for 264 kw (409 HP-SAE), 300 RPMs
higher, but the HP was relatively flat after that, up to 6700RPM.  The EGTs were at 900
C (1652 F).  Now you might say the EGT was a little high, but it did not spike, and the
A/F ratio was 12.7, which is well with in limits.

    So what does this tell me/you?  With my plugs gapped to .044 I was getting
detonation (probably not because of running out of fuel, but because the spark was
blowing out)  this caused my hp to peak at only 5900 RPM.  However, by regapping my
plugs I was able to "stretch"  the peak hp range from a spike at 5930 to a fairly
consistant (+/- 10 hp) up to 6700 RPM.  At this RPM and 13 psi of boost, I had an A/F
ratio of 12.7.  This tells me that the stock fuel system can handle at least this level.

    I should have done another run at higher psi, but I was blowing oil out of my oil
dipstick hole and I had scared the crap out of the operator when one of the IC pipes
blew off the Y-pipe because I did not tighten it enough after the spark plug regap.

    Now you might be concerned by the EGT temp that is 20 C (68 F) higher.  Keep in mind
that this was measured at about 6500 RPM.  I do not think this is caused by the engine
starting to run lean.  I am almost sure it is being caused by backpressure because I
have not gutted the pre-cats yet.  While I am on this, you will see a big difference
between Jim and my numbers when you get in the 5500+ RPM  I seem to have more power up
here.  All three of us (Roger, Jim and I) believe it is a direct result of my exhaust
(Alamo DP, test pipe, Borla) vs. Jim's stock setup.  Why should you care?  Two reasons,
first, if you are drag racing you are using this RPM segment (5500-7000) quite a bit
which explains why persons on this list have improved their times with exhaust
upgrades.  Second, if indeed the high EGTs are caused by backpressure, then it would
reason, that at higher boost (1.0 bar in Jim's case) that he is running even higher
EGTs.  Is this bad?  I don't know the answer to this.  But also keep in mind that his
peak hp was only 2 hp higher than mine and peaked at 550 RPM sooner.

    So this may not answer any questions, but after reviewing all my data, I wish I had
done a lot of things different during my dyno runs.  However, this was more of a
learning experience for me anyway and I there will be a next time.

Mike Chapleski
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 14:41:45 -0600
From: "Todd D Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)

I've been using IMP headers for about 3 (or 4?) years now.
[It should be noted that by car hasn't been driven much the
last couple of years though (about 5K miles)]

It's a long story but IMP originally started selling headers for
S/3K's around 1995.  They did the R&D and had good fit and
finish.  This is the type/set I bought ~ 3 years ago.
Since then IMP stopped selling/having the headers built by the
vendor they were originally using due to low demand.

Then about a year ago Chris Dotur(and others) convinced them to
begin building/selling the turbo headers again.  They (IMP) had a
new/different vendor build a prototype set for Chris and they
didn't fit correctly.  After a couple of more attempts (and a lot of
time, headaches and $ for Chris) they finally built him a set that was
'adequate' but they are still not the same as mine (the original build
and original vendor).   I'm not sure what IMP is selling at the current
time and I haven't heard or spoken with anyone besides Chris that
has bought any within the last couple of years.

I've had pretty good luck with mine (so far) and have only experienced
one hairline crack which wasn't even noticed until the headers were off
of the car and was easily repaired.  I'm glad to have them for use with
the monster turbos but I've had a hard time with the high temp coatings
I've tried so far.  A new 'model' coating will be applied shortly so perhaps
I'll
have better luck with it than I have the last two coatings.
The coater says it's been difficult due to the thin walled stainless
construction.  The latest coating has held up well on cast iron
manifolds and on my O2 housings, turbine housings.


BTW - these headers are a BITCH to install due to the extreme
inaccessibility to the header bolts!  We had to cut and weld wrenches
at various 'weird' angles in order to tighten some of the bolts.



- - tds

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --

    -----Original Message-----
    From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
    To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 1:08 PM
    Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)




    Ok, I got something like a kit but nobody can say if it is reliable
(gulp). Todd
    Shelton has the same turbos already installed that will find their way
into my
    car but I doubt that he's having aftermarket headers on too.




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 14:57:43 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Turbo upgrades - part 2 (Trust Offroad Exh)

I also get that same "whistle"  My I actually got a power increase when I
put the Trust system on my car.  The whistle concerns me though. Usually a
whistle is a sign of restriction.   I have not done a back pressure test.
Hopefully I will after I put the car back together with the new turbos.

> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Barry E. King
Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 2:08 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Turbo upgrades - part 2 (Trust Offroad Exh)

I don't know of any American made down pipes that eliminate the precats,
unfortunately.  My exhaust is currently gutted precats, Alamo DP and a Borla
cat back with cat in place.  I am possibly getting precat replacements
fabricated if the guy I have in mind can/will do it for a decent price.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:12:34 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: Team3S: CD

Hey Brad,

Did you ever send the parts CD?

- -Bob


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:11:47 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

Differences between IMP & GT Alley (now Huff) Headers.
Can you guys who have these mention the size of the inside opening diameters?
Is one larger then the other?
How difficult would it be to grind/dremmel out the inside diameter of the
stock headers?
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 2/9/99 12:42:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, tds@brightok.net
writes:

<< ve been using IMP headers for about 3 (or 4?) years now.
 [It should be noted that by car hasn't been driven much the
 last couple of years though (about 5K miles)]
 
 It's a long story but IMP originally started selling headers for
 S/3K's around 1995.  They did the R&D and had good fit and
 finish.  This is the type/set I bought ~ 3 years ago.
 Since then IMP stopped selling/having the headers built by the
 vendor they were originally using due to low demand.
 
 Then about a year ago Chris Dotur(and others) convinced them to
 begin building/selling the turbo headers again.  They (IMP) had a
 new/different vendor build a prototype set for Chris and they
 didn't fit correctly.  After a couple of more attempts (and a lot of
 time, headaches and $ for Chris) they finally built him a set that was
 'adequate' but they are still not the same as mine (the original build
 and original vendor).   I'm not sure what IMP is selling at the current
 time and I haven't heard or spoken with anyone besides Chris that
 has bought any within the last couple of years.
  >>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 13:32:58 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: CD

Bob, Brad...


Can either of you, or anyone else who reveiws the product, post on it, so others can
decide if they want to jump in?

Thanks

Darc



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:49:53 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD

The flange holes were not large enough to port match the exhaust ports on my
heads, and the tubes were even smaller.  That meant that when the exhaust
left the heads, about 35-40% of it would have run into a metal barrier or
slag.  The exhaust in the center of the port would have had no interference,
but any distance out from the center of the port would have pulsed back into
the cylinder.

I tried to salvage them by taking them to a welder to have material added to
the OUTSIDE of the tube where it joins the flange with the intention of
using an air-driven die grinder to grind and blend the inside of the tubes
with the flange.  The flange was so thin that they warped from the welds.
By this time, I was up to $150 in welding costs, not to mention the cost of
the headers themselves.  Fortunately, Chien cut me a MAJOR break on them, so
I didn't get totally killed on the deal.  As it is, the headers are still at
the welder and I'm not about to go down there and pay for them nor do I
intend to get into a finger pointing contest with them.

- -Bob

> Can either of you, or anyone else who reveiws the product, post
> on it, so others can decide if they want to jump in?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:50:29 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: CD

Sorry,

That was meant to be a private email.  Excuse me.

- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 22:53:50 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

> Differences between IMP & GT Alley (now Huff) Headers.
> Can you guys who have these mention the size of the inside opening diameters?
> Is one larger then the other?

I currently do not have access to them as they are at the tig-welding shop. The
flanges openings are the same as the inside diameter (oval) of the gasket. But
then the pipe's diameter is only the size of the smalles diameter of the outlet.
The welding is very bad and I'd not trust to withstand the high pressures/temps
then.

We are now replacing a part of the piping at the flanges and form a larger pipe
to the exact oval size of the output. Then the new parts simply go into the
smaller size to provide a velocity increasing. Although the pipes are still
larger than the hybrids turbine housing intake,  the flange is not good welded
and therefore can produce more turbulence than wanted !

The stock manifolds can be machined but this will not give you alot if anything.
The headers I got are completely other design will different lenghts of the
piping but, unfortunately, they are made of thin steel and high temperatures are
probably not transported away that good then.

I know that GT Alley did not made any own developements but copied other designs
and tried to improve them. IMHO, the headers are the same as the IMP.

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:24:31 -0600
From: "Todd D Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

Arty, Roger and others,

I will measure my next time I go down to Dallas
(where my rebuild is finally being done) - the headers
are off of the car and this is the best time for me to measure.
I'm almost positive that Brian used my IMP headers when
he designed/built his since he had my headers in his hands
at the time.  I haven't seen Rogers headers (built by Huff)
but I feel confident that he used my IMP headers to build
a set for Roger.  Roger's headers were built shortly after
they received my headers (and motor).


- - tds

- --------------------------------------------------------------------
    -----Original Message-----
    From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
    To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 3:56 PM
    Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)




    I know that GT Alley did not made any own developements but copied other
designs
    and tried to improve them. IMHO, the headers are the same as the IMP.



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 16:58:45 -0600
From: Todd Schmalzried <q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

Speaking of the rebuild. Is this your 3.0 to 3.5 rebuild?

I know you were going to have it done, but haven't heard anything else about
it for a while. Is there anything actually being accomplished? I had heard
someone was looking at putting a kit together. Is that still going to happen?
Sorry if this touches a sore spot.

There's no substitute for cubic inches.

Thanks
Todd

Todd D Shelton wrote:
>
> Arty, Roger and others,
>
> I will measure my next time I go down to Dallas
> (where my rebuild is finally being done) - the headers
> are off of the car and this is the best time for me to measure.
 
- --
Todd Schmalzried    tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com

Years ago I discovered the meaning of life.... but forgot to write it down.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 17:08:06 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

>
>There's no substitute for cubic inches.

Except rectangular dollars.
>
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 17:08:06 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

>
>There's no substitute for cubic inches.

Except rectangular dollars.
>
Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 17:06:04 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cost

How much would it cost to upgrade our cars the right way? I was talking
to a mechanic that builds race cars and he said just to get our cars up
the 400 horses the right way would cost about 12 grand.
 He said that the turbo's alone would cost  about 3 grand. I asked him
to explain to me why it would cost that much, and he said that the new
ceramic bearing turbos are the way to go. Then he said you have to match
your intercoolers to the turbos. Each intercooler would cost about  900
a piece. Then he said, the engine would have to be redone so you can run
high boost. I asked him what was high he said a about 30 psi. Then he
said some of the parts would have to be custom made.  I just wanted to
know what you guys think about this. By the way he only works on
imports, mostly, Audi 's and has built rally vehicles in Europe, but he
refuses to work on, Hondas.   He says doing this way keep you from
messing things up, and save you money down the road because you have the
best to begin with. I have seen some of his work and it is impressive.I
asked him what is the best car to modify  his answer was, Audi  he said
you still have the all wheel drive and you can get audi parts all over
the place, but I think he partial to them since most of his business
comes from.




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 17:11:50 -0700
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: Import shootout in denver

Well I just received notification that bandimeres import shootout here
in Denver co is going to be held July 25th so mark your calendars. Also
every Friday night club and cash that used to be hotrods only, are open
to imports now in their own class. So hopefully we'll see some good
action this year.

Pete Palamara
92 3000vr-4(GTO)
500 hp of Fun
(303)689-4733

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd D Shelton [SMTP:tds@brightok.net]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 3:25 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)
>
> Arty, Roger and others,
>
> I will measure my next time I go down to Dallas
> (where my rebuild is finally being done) - the headers
> are off of the car and this is the best time for me to measure.
> I'm almost positive that Brian used my IMP headers when
> he designed/built his since he had my headers in his hands
> at the time.  I haven't seen Rogers headers (built by Huff)
> but I feel confident that he used my IMP headers to build
> a set for Roger.  Roger's headers were built shortly after
> they received my headers (and motor).
>
>
> - tds
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>     To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>     Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 3:56 PM
>     Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)
>
>
>
>
>     I know that GT Alley did not made any own developements but copied
> other
> designs
>     and tried to improve them. IMHO, the headers are the same as the
> IMP.
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 19:04:28 EST
From: Petrosvr4@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Borla exhaust

Hi everyone
I have a 93 3K  base. Can I put the Borla ,the one for the VR-4, in my car?
Anyone did this?How the car will run?
Thanx
peter 3SI#126
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 18:24:12 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cost

The ceramic turbos are very nice, no doubt.  Are they worth the extra G
note?  Dunno.  Plain bearing turbos can last a very long time, produce gobs
of boost and even have decent spoolup.

Regarding the engine handling 30 psi, as stated previously, other than
pistons I see no problem with a STOCK engine handling it.  The bottom end on
the 3K engine is outstanding and the block is as beefy as they come.  There
is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the engine when properly prepared
without exotic parts (other than pistons and good hardware) will handle 600
HP over the long term.  Balancing and proper tolerances are key here so I
think a rebuild is wise.  Forged pistons can be had from JE without much
trouble.

The heads on the 6G72 flow amazingly well right from the factory.  While
some improvement can be made it isn't much without increasing valve area.
Even then the typical gains from head work are not there as you might expect
from stock American heads without quite a bit of expensive work.  As a side
note, my engine builder guy who specializes in heads, says he has never seen
a head, factory or aftermarket, that flows as well as the Mitsubishi 6G72.
He works on full race Honda heads and track only American smallblocks.
Honda has long been recognized as a leader in cylinder head technology.
Mitsubishi appears to have done their homework in that regard.

The Audi is a well engineered car, no question.  However, I would like to
see him compare the 6G72 engine with an Audi and see what he says.  Maybe
the Audi is equally well designed and constructed.  i wouldn't be all that
surprised if they were, but he may be surprised at how beefy a 6G72 is right
from the factory.

12K isn't far off the mark actually.  A good crank up rebuild can run
between $3-5K (including flowporting and matching etc.), turbos $2-3K,
intercoolers $1500-2000.  Add in electronics and miscelaneous stuff and you
are very close to 12K.  Add dyno time, which would pretty much have to be
included in the "right" way, and you are easily there.

I suspect the interest in aftermarket for Audi is probably higher than
Mitsubishi, especially in Europe, and the prestige is certainly there.

I assume you meant stock HP plus an additional 400 HP.  $12K for an end
result of 400 HP would be a rather huge ripoff, of course, since you can
easily get to 400 HP with simple bolt-ons without even thinking about engine
internals.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> How much would it cost to upgrade our cars the right way? I was talking
> to a mechanic that builds race cars and he said just to get our cars up
> the 400 horses the right way would cost about 12 grand.
>  He said that the turbo's alone would cost  about 3 grand. I asked him
> to explain to me why it would cost that much, and he said that the new
> ceramic bearing turbos are the way to go. Then he said you have to match
> your intercoolers to the turbos. Each intercooler would cost about  900
> a piece. Then he said, the engine would have to be redone so you can run
> high boost. I asked him what was high he said a about 30 psi. Then he
> said some of the parts would have to be custom made.  I just wanted to
> know what you guys think about this. By the way he only works on
> imports, mostly, Audi 's and has built rally vehicles in Europe, but he
> refuses to work on, Hondas.   He says doing this way keep you from
> messing things up, and save you money down the road because you have the
> best to begin with. I have seen some of his work and it is impressive.I
> asked him what is the best car to modify  his answer was, Audi  he said
> you still have the all wheel drive and you can get audi parts all over
> the place, but I think he partial to them since most of his business
> comes from.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 20:28:39 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cost

Ricardo,
If you want a true race car the prices you were given are pretty accurate.
If you want a 400hp street car call me and I will set you up for under
$2000.
Frank
www.acceleratedaccessories.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 7:06 PM
Subject: Team3S: Cost


>How much would it cost to upgrade our cars the right way? I was talking
>to a mechanic that builds race cars and he said just to get our cars up
>the 400 horses the right way would cost about 12 grand.
> He said that the turbo's alone would cost  about 3 grand. I asked him
>to explain to me why it would cost that much, and he said that the new
>ceramic bearing turbos are the way to go. Then he said you have to match
>your intercoolers to the turbos. Each intercooler would cost about  900
>a piece. Then he said, the engine would have to be redone so you can run
>high boost. I asked him what was high he said a about 30 psi. Then he
>said some of the parts would have to be custom made.  I just wanted to
>know what you guys think about this. By the way he only works on
>imports, mostly, Audi 's and has built rally vehicles in Europe, but he
>refuses to work on, Hondas.   He says doing this way keep you from
>messing things up, and save you money down the road because you have the
>best to begin with. I have seen some of his work and it is impressive.I
>asked him what is the best car to modify  his answer was, Audi  he said
>you still have the all wheel drive and you can get audi parts all over
>the place, but I think he partial to them since most of his business
>comes from.
>
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 18:33:46 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mixture and Dyno Readings

Just a minor point of clarification.  I don't necessarily believe optimal
power is right at 12.5:1 but rather anywhere in the rather broad range
specified.  The exact number depends on a number of factors and even changes
for a specific engine across the RPM range.

In general when tuning I try and target 12.5:1 and work either way from
there since I know 12.5:1 is not only "safe" but also likely fairly close to
the right setup give or take some tweaking.

I would, however, argue against the statement that optimal power output is
at 11.5:1 in every case.  It really depends on the engine and operating
environment.  It may well be that 11.5:1 is the case for a modified 3K but
based on my own tuning I think it is more like 12-12.5:1.  Future dyno
sessions would definitely settle this one for all to benefit.


Regards,

Barry

<snipped>

>     Now Barry believes the optimal figure is 12.5:1 however, the
> dyno operator seemed to
> believe it was more like 11.5:1 in turboed cars.  I have no idea
> who is right here.
> However, for those of you contemplating which should come first
> in the upgrade path here
> are some observations.

<more good info snipped>

> Mike Chapleski

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 18:46:52 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

I don't have my IMP headers here to measure the tube diameter.  The tubes
are round and of course the exhaust port is oval.  On mine the flange is
chamfered such that it more or less matches the exhaust gasket.

An interesting note from my engine builder head expert guy is that in his
own words "hates to do that" when people ask him to match exhaust ports to
header flanges.  He says that while the flow volume will still be there, you
run the risk of losing exhaust velocity which ultimately hampers maximum
power output.  I believe Corky Bell's "Maxium Boost" book (which I do not
own a copy of so someone else will have to verify or dispute this) mentions
that smaller tubes (within reason of course) will maintain higher exhaust
velocity which is critical to high flow.  This is consistent with my
experience with motorcyle engines -- if the priamries were too big there was
a noticable loss of power.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 2:12 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)
>
>
> Differences between IMP & GT Alley (now Huff) Headers.
> Can you guys who have these mention the size of the inside
> opening diameters?
> Is one larger then the other?
> How difficult would it be to grind/dremmel out the inside diameter of the
> stock headers?
> Arty 91 VR-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 17:54:56 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject: Team3S: Brakes

Ok, after 30k miles the brakes are starting to go...

Do I just replace them with stock again or is it time for an upgrade?

Pros and cons of each way?

- -Thanks

- -Bill



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 20:58:17 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

I'm sorry Barry, but you have made your point.  The fact that you agree with
something that Corky Bell mentions in Maximum Boost about small exhaust
tubes contributing to higher velocity misses the point.  Our discussion is
about header flanges and the need to blend with the individual tubes.  I
think we all understand that we need a funnel effect in the exhaust line
just before the turbine wheel.  But we also don't want a lip (or ledge)
sitting just outside the exhaust port which causes each exhaust "putt" to
echo back into the combustion chamber.

- -Bob

> An interesting note from my engine builder head expert guy is that in his
> own words "hates to do that" when people ask him to match exhaust ports to
> header flanges.  He says that while the flow volume will still be
> there, you run the risk of losing exhaust velocity which ultimately
hampers
> maximum power output.  I believe Corky Bell's "Maxium Boost" book (which I
do not
> own a copy of so someone else will have to verify or dispute
> this) mentions
> that smaller tubes (within reason of course) will maintain higher exhaust
> velocity which is critical to high flow.  This is consistent with my
> experience with motorcyle engines -- if the priamries were too
> big there was
> a noticable loss of power.
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:37:05 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brakes

Can you describe "starting to go"?  As I mentioned last week, I've got over
100k miles on my original brakes, and they're still there everytime I need
them.  I do very little city driving, and haven't tried autocross or such,
so I don't put as much wear-n-tear on brakes as others do, but 30k sounds
way low.

If all you do is street driving, I'd stick with OEM.  But if you're a racer,
you'll probably need to upgrade: for advice on that decision, I'll defer to
those more knowledgable than me.

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill <compren@lightspeed.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 8:53 PM
Subject: Team3S: Brakes


>Ok, after 30k miles the brakes are starting to go...
>
>Do I just replace them with stock again or is it time for an upgrade?
>
>Pros and cons of each way?
>
>-Thanks
>
>-Bill
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 19:33:46 PST
From: "Nathan Crisman" <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: 14b on a stealth TT

hi guys
I was told by someone on the talon/eclipse list that 14B's from a 1G DSM
manual will fit in a stealth.  As you might know Im looking for a set of
turbo's for my stealth, and 14b's are a lot easier to find than
3000/stealth turbo's.  If anyone has done this, or knows for a fact that
it will or will not work...let me know...list might want to knw abit
too.
Nathan Crman

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 22:12:34 -0600
From: "Jeff" <jw461@nstar.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 14b on a stealth TT

I have already researched this.  The conclusion that I came to and all those
whom I had asked is that making it work isn't worth it.  The housings are
too different and would not directly bolt up (or even be close).  I ended up
just buying some 15G's.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4 Spyder
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX

- -----Original Message-----
From: Nathan Crisman <spyder_talon@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 9:44 PM
Subject: Team3S: 14b on a stealth TT


>hi guys
>I was told by someone on the talon/eclipse list that 14B's from a 1G DSM
>manual will fit in a stealth.  As you might know Im looking for a set of
>turbo's for my stealth, and 14b's are a lot easier to find than
>3000/stealth turbo's.  If anyone has done this, or knows for a fact that
>it will or will not work...let me know...list might want to knw abit
>too.
>Nathan Crman
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 23:24:34 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:  Fuelcut; Injector Flow

R.G. wrote: [snips]
> > I was having ?light detonation or light fuel cut above 1 bar 5000rpm.

> there is no "light" fuel cut. Fuel cut you'll bite
> steering wheel when it kicks in.  detonation cannot be heard in that
> area; what you felt was hesitation by retarded timing.
> On dyno, A/F ratio good enough, IDC came to 99%
> IMHO, increasing fuel pressure does not mean you'll increase
> flow rate.  They flow 360cc fully open, that's it.

Actually there may be a light fuelcut...in DSM List posts, Todd Day went
into the basis for 'light' fuelcuts, but not in my memory exactly...

Increased fuel pressure WILL increase effective injector output per
minute.  Raising delta P across the injector (fuelside to manifold
side...fuel pressure - manifold pressure = change in pressure across the
injector) will increase fuel delivery per unit time open. 

If at 0 pressure differential, will obviously get NO flow.
If at 43psi differential       will get  360cc/minute.
If at 86psi differential       will get (360 X 2) X correction factor
for turbulence/entropy/Reynolds Number exceeded (or some such Physics
deal  :)  so end up with 509cc, not the 720cc the pressure double
suggests on its face.

I checked my RC Engineering factoid sheet and they (misprint I think)
the formula, I think actual is thus:

To find fuelflow change from fuelpressure change take: square root of
(New psi/Old psi) X Old Flow = New Flow.

More realistic would be going from 43 to 60psi, would get 425cc/min out
of "360cc" injectors.

Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 00:31:49 -0700
From: "Dan Kiehl" <dkiehl@netmdc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cost

hes full of shit.. i think for under $2000 you can get the car up to 400hp..
$12,000 would get you 600hp

CYa,
  Dan 92 RT TT

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 5:18 PM
Subject: Team3S: Cost


>How much would it cost to upgrade our cars the right way? I was talking
>to a mechanic that builds race cars and he said just to get our cars up
>the 400 horses the right way would cost about 12 grand.
> He said that the turbo's alone would cost  about 3 grand. I asked him
>to explain to me why it would cost that much, and he said that the new
>ceramic bearing turbos are the way to go. Then he said you have to match
>your intercoolers to the turbos. Each intercooler would cost about  900
>a piece. Then he said, the engine would have to be redone so you can run
>high boost. I asked him what was high he said a about 30 psi. Then he
>said some of the parts would have to be custom made.  I just wanted to
>know what you guys think about this. By the way he only works on
>imports, mostly, Audi 's and has built rally vehicles in Europe, but he
>refuses to work on, Hondas.   He says doing this way keep you from
>messing things up, and save you money down the road because you have the
>best to begin with. I have seen some of his work and it is impressive.I
>asked him what is the best car to modify  his answer was, Audi  he said
>you still have the all wheel drive and you can get audi parts all over
>the place, but I think he partial to them since most of his business
>comes from.
>
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 09:55:43 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cost

> hes full of shit..

Moderator message : We don't use these phrases here, Thanks !

> i think for under $2000 you can get the car up to 400hp..
> $12,000 would get you 600hp

The dyno sheets from Jim are proving that with only a boost controller for $500
and a FIPK $150 you're in the 400hp SAE region with 1.00bars of boost ! This is
Stage 1 upgrade and doesn't need any other upgrades.

For $2000 you have $1350 left for other things like fuel pump $400, injectors
$540, AFC $360 and AFPR $100. This is Stage 2 and will push you into the 450hp
SAE region with 1.1 bars. I'd also consider a good EGT meter $200 for proper
tuning.

The next steps to Stage 3 are more expensive and especially the labour will take
more time. A good set of turbos like 15Gs (dunno the price but over $2500 for
sure), downpipe $350, gutting the precats, cat-back $550 and some big headache
for the work.

At this point you also want to lower intake temperatures and my consider an
intercooler upgrade for $1500 and up. As boost is crancked up the fuel must have
more octane or your engine will have a lot detonation. You can also get a water
injection kit for $500 - $1000 to achieve a knock resistance with 93 fuel up to
160 octanes !

All these engine-wise mods will push you into the 500hp - 550hp region for about
and will be able to brake your tranny or your neck. Also consider big brakes and
heavy clutches for some more grands. here we are in the $10k-$12k region for
such a setup and it doesn't end. Finally you can fiddle with the exhaust
manifold, larger turbines, the heads and cams, fuel rail, fuel lines, pistons
(you can do this the same time when the engine is gone anyway the first time)
stronger rods and much more. You'll end in the 650hp region with these and you
can give em a 150hp nitrous shot to achieve the wishfull 700hp ! I'm sure you
can easily go to 20k of costs without any labour !!!

Just ask Todd what he already spent on his large project and don't forget that
you're always in a danger to get screwed and you'll loose some money with a bad
job of someone !

Finally, Stage 1 400hp costs you $650, Stage 2 450hp around $2000. This gives
something like an exponential curve cost against hp achieved :) Your wallet
finally decides where to go.

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:05:20 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

> Our discussion is about header flanges and the need to blend with the
> individual tubes.  I think we all understand that we need a funnel effect
> in the exhaust line just before the turbine wheel.  But we also don't want a
> lip (or ledge) sitting just outside the exhaust port which causes each
> exhaust "putt" to echo back into the combustion chamber.

The GT Alley / Portmasters headers are made pretty bad. Just think of having a
pipe that is as large as the smallest diameter of the oval port and it just fits
it. Then you have a gap on each side that was just welded up. Of course this
increases velocity but at the wrong place. Directly at the flange this produces
turbulences and therefore unwanted backpressure (or just too much of it). That's
why we cut about 1.5 iches away and replace the tubing with a larger diameter to
be able to provide a perfect port matching. Then it is welded onto the smaller
diameter providing a smooth inside for the desired funnel effect. The same with
the turbo flange. The tubes come together right before it but the final tube is
too big and the flange then is something like a big restriction causing more
turbulences.

You see, a lot of work must be done to the headers :(

Regards,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:41:54 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:  Fuelcut; Injector Flow

If I read this correctly you really do not have to pay $600+ for new injectors?  Just
buy a new FPR and fuel pump, then crank up the psi.

Mike
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

xwing wrote:

> R.G. wrote: [snips]
> > > I was having ?light detonation or light fuel cut above 1 bar 5000rpm.
>
> > there is no "light" fuel cut. Fuel cut you'll bite
> > steering wheel when it kicks in.  detonation cannot be heard in that
> > area; what you felt was hesitation by retarded timing.
> > On dyno, A/F ratio good enough, IDC came to 99%
> > IMHO, increasing fuel pressure does not mean you'll increase
> > flow rate.  They flow 360cc fully open, that's it.
>
> Actually there may be a light fuelcut...in DSM List posts, Todd Day went
> into the basis for 'light' fuelcuts, but not in my memory exactly...
>
> Increased fuel pressure WILL increase effective injector output per
> minute.  Raising delta P across the injector (fuelside to manifold
> side...fuel pressure - manifold pressure = change in pressure across the
> injector) will increase fuel delivery per unit time open.
>
> If at 0 pressure differential, will obviously get NO flow.
> If at 43psi differential       will get  360cc/minute.
> If at 86psi differential       will get (360 X 2) X correction factor
> for turbulence/entropy/Reynolds Number exceeded (or some such Physics
> deal  :)  so end up with 509cc, not the 720cc the pressure double
> suggests on its face.
>
> I checked my RC Engineering factoid sheet and they (misprint I think)
> the formula, I think actual is thus:
>
> To find fuelflow change from fuelpressure change take: square root of
> (New psi/Old psi) X Old Flow = New Flow.
>
> More realistic would be going from 43 to 60psi, would get 425cc/min out
> of "360cc" injectors.
>
> Jack Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:41:57 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

I saw a set of the IMP headers at Nexus in December and a set of the Portmaster ones at
Roger's last week.  Now keep in mind that I only looked at them of five minutes each
time, but:

1)  The quality of welding for both sucks.  There was too much left over weld material.
If it is possible, I think these headers should be extrude/honed after grinding smooth.

2)  On both units I thought the reduction from the oval head opening to the round pipe
was a less efficient design than the stock setup.  I have no idea how you could improve
this.

3)  The diameter of the pipes was bigger on the Portmasters headers.  Not sure if this
helps any.

4)  The Portmaster header did not match the pipe length of the middle pipe to the other
two.  However, I believe the IMP, through a very convoluted twist, did match the length.

Mike C,
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

Todd D Shelton wrote:

> Arty, Roger and others,
>
> I will measure my next time I go down to Dallas
> (where my rebuild is finally being done) - the headers
> are off of the car and this is the best time for me to measure.
> I'm almost positive that Brian used my IMP headers when
> he designed/built his since he had my headers in his hands
> at the time.  I haven't seen Rogers headers (built by Huff)
> but I feel confident that he used my IMP headers to build
> a set for Roger.  Roger's headers were built shortly after
> they received my headers (and motor).
>
> - tds
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>     -----Original Message-----
>     From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>     To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>     Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 3:56 PM
>     Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)
>
>     I know that GT Alley did not made any own developements but copied other
> designs
>     and tried to improve them. IMHO, the headers are the same as the IMP.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:25:23 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

How about an alternative of Extrude/honed the stock headers? Can we get a
comparative guess of the results vs. IMP & Huff headers. These alternative
headers don't appear worth the high cost?
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 2/10/99 4:44:23 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mike.chapleski@ibm.net writes:

<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)
 Date: 2/10/99 4:44:23 AM Eastern Standard Time
 From: mike.chapleski@ibm.net (Mike Chapleski)
 Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 
 I saw a set of the IMP headers at Nexus in December and a set of the
Portmaster ones at
 Roger's last week.  Now keep in mind that I only looked at them of five
minutes each
 time, but:
 
 1)  The quality of welding for both sucks.  There was too much left over weld
material.
 If it is possible, I think these headers should be extrude/honed after
grinding smooth.
 
 2)  On both units I thought the reduction from the oval head opening to the
round pipe
 was a less efficient design than the stock setup.  I have no idea how you
could improve
 this.
 
 3)  The diameter of the pipes was bigger on the Portmasters headers.  Not
sure if this
 helps any.
 
 4)  The Portmaster header did not match the pipe length of the middle pipe to
the other
 two.  However, I believe the IMP, through a very convoluted twist, did match
the length.
 
 Mike C,
 0018
 '95 Stealth RT TT
  >>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:38:00 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (Changed to headers)

Arty,

I used a pneumatic die grinder and some carbide bits available at tool
stores (such as ToolTown) to port match the manifolds.  Extrudehoning for
the purposes of smoothing the surface will not help much, but if you can
remove some material it might.  I agree that the headers aren't worth the
hassle or cost.

- -Bob

> How about an alternative of Extrude/honed the stock headers? Can we get a
> comparative guess of the results vs. IMP & Huff headers. These alternative
> headers don't appear worth the high cost?
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 07:48:57 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re:  Fuelcut; Injector Flow

No, at least not as a general rule.  You can adjust flow rate within a small
practical range for a given set of injectors as Jack mentions -

> > More realistic would be going from 43 to 60psi, would get 425cc/min out
> > of "360cc" injectors.

At some pressure the injectors will no longer close completely at short
pulse widths (high IDC) which leaves fuel dribbling into the intake.  They
may also refuse to open at all.  It depends on the physical condition of the
injector and the style of the valve, pintle or disc.  It has been rumored
that this pressure is 80-90 psi for a Lucas type disc injector, and as low
as 60-65 psi for some pintle designs.  A general rule would be anything
above 70 psi is hitting a point of diminishing returns.

Some cautions of running very high fuel pressure would be that excessive
pressure can cause premature failure of the injector.  Disc valve injectors
are supposedly more rugged in this regard and will handle more pressure
reliably.  The stock fuel lines may not be up to that pressure and may burst
or those cheesy little stock clamps may pop off.  It is also hard on the
fuel pump if it is not chosen carefully.

As Jack points out, the delivery rate is not linear.  The amount of flow
varies less as pressure increases.  Cranking up the fuel pressure to 90 psi
on a set of stock 365cc injectors rather than opting for 550s is likely not
a good idea.  You might be able to squeeze 700-720 performance out of a set
of 550s though.

A generally accepted formula for approximation of the flow is:

F = sqrt(Pf / Pi) * Fi

where F is the resulting flow, Fi is the injector rated flow, Pf is the
actual pressure and Pi is the pressure at the injector's rated flow.

A fuel pump designed to operate reliably at 70-90 psi for extended periods
of time is also pricey.  I suppose short bursts now and then might be okay,
but fuel pump flow drops off in a non-linear fashion as pressure increases.
At some pressure for a given pump flow will actually begin to decrease.
Manufacturers usually rate a pump's flow at a given psi, usually 43 psi.
What we really need to know is the flow rate at the rail pressure you plan
to run.  There is no general formula for that since it is dependant on the
design of the pump itself.


Barry


> --- Original Message
>
> If I read this correctly you really do not have to pay $600+ for new
> injectors?  Just buy a new FPR and fuel pump, then crank up the psi.

> Mike
> 0018
> '95 Stealth RT TT



> --- Portions of Jack's Message
>
> > Increased fuel pressure WILL increase effective injector output per
> > minute.  Raising delta P across the injector (fuelside to manifold
> > side...fuel pressure - manifold pressure = change in pressure across the
> > injector) will increase fuel delivery per unit time open.
> >
> > If at 0 pressure differential, will obviously get NO flow.
> > If at 43psi differential       will get  360cc/minute.
> > If at 86psi differential       will get (360 X 2) X correction factor
> > for turbulence/entropy/Reynolds Number exceeded (or some such Physics
> > deal  :)  so end up with 509cc, not the 720cc the pressure double
> > suggests on its face.
> >
> > I checked my RC Engineering factoid sheet and they (misprint I think)
> > the formula, I think actual is thus:
> >
> > To find fuelflow change from fuelpressure change take: square root of
> > (New psi/Old psi) X Old Flow = New Flow.
> >
> > More realistic would be going from 43 to 60psi, would get 425cc/min out
> > of "360cc" injectors.
> >
> > Jack Tertadian

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 10:20:44 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Cosmos fuel pump (Mfg's tel # ?)

I need to locate the web site or tel. number for my Cosmos fuel pump.
If anybody has this info, please advise.
Thanks. Arty 91 VR-4
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:53:23 -0000
From: "Dan Kiehl" <dkiehl@netmdc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Question

What boost controller do you run? 

Are there any complaints of the blitz street spec?


CYa,
  Dan 92 RT TT

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:55:58 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:  Fuelcut; Injector Flow

> If I read this correctly you really do not have to pay $600+ for new injectors?  Just
> buy a new FPR and fuel pump, then crank up the psi.

Therefore the market for bigger injectors is gone, LOL. Increasing the fuel
pressure a little is good to tune in the system but double the fuel pressure to
get out 720cc of 360cc is physically inpossible !

The explanation comes close to the volume and power of a stereo amplifier.
People think that double the power gives you twice the volume of the sound. This
is wrong because it only gives you about 50% more and for a real double in dB
you need 10 times the power. Another explanation is the air resistance against
speed. Lets say the resistance at 100km/h is A (just for explanation) then at
200km/h the resistance is not 2*A but it is A^2 (EXP).

In fluids this is not exactly the same as the resistance is different but it is
close for about 2-4% for an explanation compare to air resistance. Now if you
want 720cc/minute out of 360cc you have to increase the 40psi to ... 1600psi ..
a little bit too high for the whole system :) In fuel a typical raise of 2 times
the fuel pressure gives you about 1.35 x flow. Therefore double the fuel
pressure from 40psi to 80psi with 360cc you'll get virtually 486cc (428cc in
normal fluid) injectors. But even double the pressure cannot (or should not )
rised to double as the spray pattern of the injectors are changing to the bad
side and they cannot act well then (not opening/closing fully)

Cranking up the fuel pressure by about 15 psi helps as the pattern is still on
the good side and the flow is getting better even with bigger injectors. As our
stock pressure is 43.5psi (at least EU) setting it to 58psi means to get a max
flow of about 400cc per minute.

Last but not least the fuel pump is a problem as it can provide a high flow
level or a high pressure but not really both. A Porsche guy in Switzerland ended
in three fuel pumps and, of course, they are expensive too.

If my physics are not too old then I think it's still a good idea to get at
least 550cc as an upgrade :) To bad as just increasing the fuel pressure would
be a nice idea but we still cannot tweak Mr Newton. Also the system learns and
over short or long the fuel pressure is adjusted back with the feedback of the
O2 sensors.

Regards,
Roger
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 09:00:59 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Cosmos fuel pump (Mfg's tel # ?)

The pump is made by Denso, formerly Nippon Denso.  Cosmo is a model of Mazda
sold in Japan.

Hope that helps.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I need to locate the web site or tel. number for my Cosmos fuel pump.
> If anybody has this info, please advise.
> Thanks. Arty 91 VR-4

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Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 11:36:13 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Question

Dan,
We run the HKS EVC IV $520 w install kit. It is very accurate and
dependable.  It was installed prior to the Blitz and Apex~i becoming
available.  I think they are just as good for less money than the HKS.  We
also tried the Profec B but did not like it.  We are running a special on
the Blitz DSBC but the list rules prevent me from posting the price. Email
privately if interested.
Thanks,
Frank
www.acceleratedaccessories.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dan Kiehl <dkiehl@netmdc.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost Question


>What boost controller do you run?
>
>Are there any complaints of the blitz street spec?
>
>
>CYa,
>  Dan 92 RT TT
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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