--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #96
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
February 9 1999 Volume 01 : Number
096
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 08:16:12 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FYI: DOHC Rocker Arm no.'s
Steve;
Thanks for posting back
on this..it could save sorting or some head scratching down the
road...but,
it has not helped with your problem---have you solved it
yet??
Best
Darc
Lomcevak@aol.com
wrote:
> For anyone who was interested
in my inquiry as to the meaning of the
> numbers stamped on top of the
DOHC engine's rocker arms - I finally contacted
> a tech rep at mitsubishi
who told me they are nothing more than an indicator
> from the production
line - there is no diference in any of the rockers - they
> are all
identical.
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 08:16:59 -0800
From: "Pat Maston" <PAM@gty.ci.henderson.nv.us>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires for VR4
Mathematically the difference in size between a
225/50 and 235/45 would result in a 2 percent difference in your speedometer on
the low side. In other words, you would indicate say 60 kph, but only be
doing 59 kph. The inaccuracy of the speedo probable makes more difference
than that. Have you checked into buying tires from the U.S. from places
like Tire Rack or Discount Tire and having them shipped to you?
Patrick
91 VR4
>>> Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au> 2/8/99
1:44:08 AM >>>
I've been quoted prices in the vicinity of $345US per
tyre for the
original 225/50 Yoko's that are on the car at the moment &
was offered a
cheaper alternative by a tyre bloke today who said I could use
235/45
Bridgestones. I asked if this different tyre size would effect my
speedo
to which he said "not much"(??!!).
Anyway it is proving difficult
to get a 225/50 17 inch tyre for the car
other than the Yoko.
Any
suggestions on a 225/50 alternative to the Yoko's or comments on
other sizes
etc. would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Andrew
Australia
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:25:06
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
[Team3S: team 3S: suspension upgrade]
Jim,
Go
to http://www.ground-control.com.
They have a "tech talk" section that is pretty interesting and it also mentions
a few books to read.
Mark
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
wrote:
<br>
> ---------------------------------------------
> Attachment:
> MIME Type: multipart/alternative
>
---------------------------------------------
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC
"-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=text/html;charset=iso-8859-1 http-equiv=Content-Type>
<META
content='"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=GENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>Assuming you
have all the correct aftermarket
hardware to make the proper adjustments is
the goal to get as </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=#000000 size=2>close as possible to equal weight on each
corner. I
also assume it would be done with driver and some amount
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000 size=2>of
fuel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000
size=2>P.S. I know there are several suspension setup
books out there
---- could someone recommene
one.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000
size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000
size=2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=#000000
size=2>
&n
bsp; &nbs
p;
&n
bsp;
thanks in
advance --- Jim
berry</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
advance --- Jim
berry</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
____________________________________________________________________
Get
free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 09:17:46 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires for VR4
Hi Andrew,
There are some tire size
calculators on the web. You can use them to
find sizes close to your
original size. I used my own program and
included the results for
you. You will probably not want to deviate too
far from the original
diameter though. The 245/45/17 &
255/45/17 look like pretty close
alternatives while the 235/45/17 is
more than a half-inch
smaller
diameter. If your rims are wide enough, go for the 255/45/17.
Good
luck,
Ken
Revolutions per
mile
|
Diameter
(inches)
|
|
Size
|
|
|
_____________________________
758.02026 26.60630 305
40 17
764.81055 26.37008 265 45
17
767.10107 26.29134 295 40 17
769.40533
26.21260 235 50 17
776.40210 25.97638 255
45 17
776.40210 25.97638 285 40
17
781.13770 25.81890 225 50 17
****
785.93146 25.66142 245 45 17
785.93146
25.66142 275 40 17
795.69757 25.34646 265
40 17
795.69757 25.34646 305 35
17
798.17712 25.26772 235 45 17
803.18292
25.11024 295 35 17
805.70947 25.03150 255
40 17
808.25201 24.95275 225 45
17
813.38538 24.79527 285 35 17
Andrew
Clark wrote:
>
> I'm sorry to bore everybody with this subject,
& I know its been cover
> heaps of times, but I'm running into
problems getting tyres for my VR4.
> I've been quoted prices in the
vicinity of $345US per tyre for the
> original 225/50 Yoko's that are on
the car at the moment & was offered a
> cheaper alternative by a tyre
bloke today who said I could use 235/45
> Bridgestones. I asked if this
different tyre size would effect my speedo
> to which he said "not
much"(??!!).
> Anyway it is proving difficult to get a 225/50 17 inch tyre
for the car
> other than the Yoko.
> Any suggestions on a 225/50
alternative to the Yoko's or comments on
> other sizes etc. would be
greatly appreciated.
> Thanks
> Andrew
> Australia
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:21:30
From: Mark Creekmore <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re: [Re:
Team3S: Boost Question]
Jeff,
I have an HKS EVC
IV. I would recommend not using the learn mode and setting everything
manually. When doing the manual setup if you input a stock boost pressure
that is lower than normal (I used .45) you get a much larger calibration
range. You can then use the offset setting (121-136 on the high boost
mode) to get the boost controller and the actual boost pressure right on the
money.
Mark
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
wrote:
> Jeff,
>
> > I saw maximum boost of about 6 psi
and one of the turbochagers
> > (stock) was brand new. According to
specifications I've seen, the stock boost
> > on that model was
9psi.
>
> This is not dependent on the turbos. My 93'3000GT max out
6psi when I turn off
> the Blitz controller. With the stock boost solenoid
the boost was somewhat
> higher around 7 psi it mainly helps to get max
boost quicker.
>
> > Now, with the boost controller, I can
easily reach much higher boost
> > pressures
>
> Sure, and
you can easily kill your engine over 1.00bars (14.7psi)!!
>
> >
but with the boost controller turned off, I still only
> > see about
6psi.
>
> Of course it does as the controllers solenoid will stay
fully open and the
> pressure goes directly to the wastegates causing them
to open. They start around
> 4.5psi or so.
>
> > I've also
noticed that in order to achive a boost pressure of
> > 13.5 psi, I
have to set my boost controller at 1.10 kg/cm2 (about 15.5psi I
> >
think).
>
> This depends on the boost controller, where it measures
boost and where it takes
> pressure from to drive the wastegates. IMHO,
there is a hose not connected to
> the proper location.
>
> > What specifically causes a reduction in stock boost
pressure?
>
> First, it looks normal for that year. Then an
existing stock solenoid valve can
> cause a difference. Also the preloaded
spring in the wastegate actuators are
> getting weaker over the years but
with a boost controller this can be controlled
> and compensated. I dunno
your boost controller but it is maybe older than the
> most we are
running.
>
> Hope this helps,
> Roger
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
> Visit my homepage under:
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
____________________________________________________________________
Get
free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 11:38:33 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages
Hey everyone,
I was wondering what the
availibility of upgraded turbos is.
Q1: How many stages are there when
using the factory exhaust manifolds? It
is my understanding that you can get
the 13G's, then upgrade them to 15G's.
Are these the only options for the
factory manifolds?
Q2: Does anyone build a reliable upgrade kit that
includes new
manifolds/headers? If so, what kind of turbos are
used?
Q3: At which point during the above modifications is upgrading the
fuel
system required?
Thanks in advance for any info you guys can
provide.
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 09:32:45 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 17in Spyder rims for sale
Hi,
Sorry to post
this non-tech here.. but I have a set of 17x8.5 wheels
off a VR4 Spyder (or
the '93-'94 VR4). They are chrome.. in PERFECT
condition.. has 255/40ZR
Falkens. Give me a private email if
interested..
thank.
George
3S
#0139
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 10:38:23 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bosch Plugs
Has anybody tried or have comments on the
new Bosch platinum plug with
the four
electrodes?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 10:44:47 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Bosch Plugs
I have. They suck in our cars, or at least mine.
They lasted literally a
few WEEKS. I stupidly tried them twice if you
can believe that. the first
set was installed by a shop who put them in
even though I specified NGK
double platinums since I "knew better".
They thought they knew better.
When the first set died thy gave me another
set which also died in about the
same time. I will use NGK and only NGK
as I have in my high performance
toys for the last 20 years.
Autolite
platinums are junk too. I used them once when I could not get NGKs
on a
particular Saturday late last year. They fuel fouled within 48
hours
even though they were gapped at my NGK settings and the same fuel
mixture
and fuel was being used as with the previous
NGKs.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Has anybody tried or have comments on
the new Bosch platinum plug with
> the four
electrodes?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeffrey
>
> 92
RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 12:57:30 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Bosch Plugs
The Bosch plugs are essentially the same idea as
the Torquemaster plugs.
You might have seen their ad's in Turbo Magazine
awhile back. We first
started to use them in our Honda project, and some
customer cars. At
first glance the customers were saying the seat of the
pants feeling was
there, and their cars would pull further. But it actuality
when we put
it up on the dyno we were noticing that the plugs were giving
us
problems at the higher revs and top end. We pulled the Torquemasters
out
and put in regular NGK's and the car pulled clean. They were
advertised
as reusable plugs which were easier to clean and a plug where the
spark
would actually arc better since it's coming from multiple points,
but
they didn't work that well. I'm pretty sure these are the same types
of
plugs, since after careful examination of the ceramics portion of
the
sparkplug, you would seem the logo, Champions underneath. And from
my
experience, Honda's ate Bosch plugs up quicker than Champions, so
I
would say the Bosch plugs have gotta be worse.
Stick to the good ol' NGK
Platinium's or in Bob's case the NGK $1.xx
regular plugs which you can toss
out and replace with a fresh set more
often.
What happened to the
Silver plugs was it? Weren't they supposed to be
more conductive?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 11:12:55 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
Here's some info (and opinions) which
should answer some questions or get
you asking more, and possibly elicit some
discussion from others.
One thing to keep in mind if you want to go in
stages is that turbos are not
necessarily the first thing you should consider
installing. When upgrading
turbos the fuel system must be done at the
same time and so the cost can go
up a lot. If going in stages I'd do
this in this order (note that I did not
and wish I had):
1) fuel pump
- minimum 260 lph, bigger for more boost/larger turbos
2) fuel line - .5" or
equivalent from tank to rail will supply fuel for any
realistic HP
output
3) fuel mixture control - VPC, AFC (if you must), GCC etc.
4)
injectors - minimum 550s, bigger for more boost
5) turbos - you may wish to
do injectors and turbos at the same time
any time) all the other junk as
needed - boost controllers, plug wires,
Y-pipe, intercoolers etc etc
etc
>> Soapbox On <<
Brakes! Seriously consider
upgrading the brakes. More power means it is
easier to get into trouble
more quickly. People often don't think about
stopping when in "more
power" mode. I did the brakes first which IMO is
when to do
it.
>> Soapbox Off <<
Note that you will not see any HP
improvement until #3 above and no huge
gains until the turbos go in.
BUT, whewn they DO go in your engine is up to
handling what they will
deliver. Many of us did it either all at once or
backwards. One
of the big advantages of doing it this way is that not only
is the car ready
for more boost but you also know how to opertae the fuel
management system
which is a requirement for larger injectors and bigger
turbos.
The
stock fuel system is marginal for even the stock turbos at higher boost.
The
stock fuel pump is rated at 180 lph and the injectors are smallish at
365
cc/min (or so). If you upgrade turbos even to 13Gs you'll want to
take
a serious look at the fuel system. A lot of people use 550s and
15Gs with
monster boost but if you do the math the injectors are really not
up to it.
The stock FPR is adequate for moderate boost but based on observed
behavior
it will not deliver the desired 60-65 psi rail pressure for 21+ psi
boost
applications.
A 260 lph fuel pump and 550s would be a minimum
setup for moderate boost
levels.
13Gs and 15Gs will bolt directly to
the factory manifolds as they use the
same exhaust housing casting as found
on the stock 9Bs. There are hybrids
that use large impellers on the
exducer side but employ the stock turbine
(hot side) housing. They are
typically Garret compressors. This option
usually requires changing the
plumbing on the pressurized side of the
system -- intercooler piping and
Y-pipes etc. -- since the exducer is larger
than stock.
A TD04L-15G 6
cm^2 turbo is a 13G bored out to accept a 15G impeller. 15Gs
will give
the car a huge wakeup but you'll need at least 550cc injectors for
moderate
boost and larger for high boost. The fuel system will require
upgrading
in the form of a pump (minimum 260 lph) and ideally larger fuel
line.
There are rumored to be 17x impellers available for the TD04L housing
but I
would be skeptical of them until proven reliable since there is
precious
little meat left in the housing when 15Gs are installed.
13Gs are okay
but personally I wouldn't bother with them and go directly to
15Gs. If
you want all out maximum potential and sacrifice some bottom end
you can get
various hybrids or the Mitsubishi TD05-16G. The latter will
require
different headers which are not readily available -- they seem to be
a Japan
only thing at this point. Fabricating them is an
(expensive)
option. It really all depends on the depth of your
pocketbook and what you
want to accomplish.
There is a Garret "kit"
out of Japan but so far it is not available here
just yet. Maybe Henry
of RPM or Chien at Nexus will have some insight on
that
option.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hey everyone,
> I was wondering what the
availibility of upgraded turbos is.
>
> Q1: How many stages are
there when using the factory exhaust manifolds? It
> is my understanding
that you can get the 13G's, then upgrade them
> to 15G's.
> Are
these the only options for the factory manifolds?
>
> Q2: Does
anyone build a reliable upgrade kit that includes new
> manifolds/headers?
If so, what kind of turbos are used?
>
> Q3: At which point during
the above modifications is upgrading the fuel
> system
required?
>
> Thanks in advance for any info you guys can
provide.
> Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 11:14:21 -0700
From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
Subject:
Team3S:Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment
Hello all,
I recently
replaced my TPS(throttle position sensor) and noticed that there
is some play
in the adjustment(about 3/8"). Has anyone messed around with
this
adjustment to make their car run richer or leaner? It would seem
that
if you turned it all of the way counter clockwise the car would run
richer
because the ECU would think that the throttle is opened more and
therefore
inject more fuel. Any thoughts on this?
- -Paul
Horschel-
- --Copper 93 3000GT Twin Turbo--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 13:41:18 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: FYI:
DOHC Rocker Arm no.'s
Hello
Darc,
I believe I still have a problem with my cam
setup. Or should I say I
believe it is not the cam/rockers but a valve
problem. It appears to be an
assembled valve height problem - which could be
a result of improper /
excessive valve or seat
grinding.
I have been sick the last week or so, that has
delayed things a bit, but I
am modifying my micrometer to take some
measurements and get a better idea of
exactly where the problem lies. It
might be a simple as letting the lash
adjuster make up for the difference,
grinding the valve tips, or possibly
taking the head back off and into the
machine shop. I am hoping for an easy
resolution as I'm sure you know this
has been a long stretch for me, over a
year now since the car broke down. I
am no closer to getting the offending
mechanic into court, so I would at
least like to be driving the car.
Luckily, there is
a tech rep that is pretty sharp that helps me when I
can get through to him -
depending on who answers the phone sometimes I am
told I cannot get help
there unless I am a factory tech. But I was able to
reach him Friday and got
some good info from him.
As always, I will get the
list updated to anything new that I may learn
along the
way:)
Steve
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 13:47:17 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S:Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment
In a message dated 99-02-08
13:14:51 EST, you write:
<< Hello all,
I
recently replaced my TPS(throttle position sensor) and noticed that
there
is some play in the adjustment(about 3/8"). Has anyone
messed around with
this adjustment to make their car run richer or
leaner? It would seem that
if you turned it all of the way
counter clockwise the car would run richer
because the ECU would think
that the throttle is opened more and therefore
inject more fuel.
Any thoughts on this? >>
I believe there is alot
more than the TPS in aiding the ECU determining
the fuel/air mixture. At the
very least the Mass Airflow Sensor and Manifold
Pressure sensors are directly
involved in helping the ECU decide on mixture.
Add to that air charge temp
and engine temp.
I would imagine adusting the TPS would impact
the performance, but in
adjusting it alone you will probably find that normal
operation is optimal.
Either way - if you try it, keep us
posted:)
SteveC
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 20:00:12 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
Thanks to Barry the most is
already said and I just throw in my 0.02 :
In June last year I decided to
make a big upgrade with the following :
(no comments on the GT
Al&&ç%ç*&%)
- - Large in-tank fuel pump (Denso)
- - 7200cc
injectors
- - VPC (AFC is already installed, who knows for what)
- - Huge
Hybrid Turbos (close to 20G)
- - Portmasters headers
- - front mount
intercooler
As Barry stated our fuel system is weak and the injectors are
getting maxed out
just after 14.7psi .. this is Fact 1 ! Also the stock
turbo system can produce
much more boostbut is not able to do this in the
lower end as well as boost is
falling off in the higher rpm. But when running
more boost you defintiely need
better fuel with over 100 octane to prevent
heavy knock ... Fact 2 ! Therefore,
installing a larger fuel system and
increasing boost with ANY turbo needs
expensive fuel.
The large turbos
fit to the stock manifold as well as to the new headers (a
Mitsu part). The
compressor wheel housing is soooo big that a custom front mount
engine
bracket is necessary to get them in.
The design of the headers is good
and I'm positive that they will bring an
improvement. But I don't want to
speak about quality and the amount of work
we'll have to do on them until
they are just good enough :((
Headers with larger diameters will not help
a lot if any. Ok I think the turbine
inlet should be somewhat larger but this
is the limitation of the Mitsu part.
The 13Gs are stock in european cars
and the dyno session showed that there is an
advantage from 3900 up to 4950
due to them. The injectors are maybe bigger but
this is not sure until I pull
them. All this stuff doesn't help as I'm also
running pump gas (98ROZ=94
octane) like Jim and Mike and I also got detonation
just after 1.00bars !
Only cranking up boost from there would finally brings out
the advantage
then.
> > Q2: Does anyone build a reliable upgrade kit that
includes new
> > manifolds/headers? If so, what kind of turbos are
used?
Ok, I got something like a kit but nobody can say if it is reliable
(gulp). Todd
Shelton has the same turbos already installed that will find
their way into my
car but I doubt that he's having aftermarket headers on
too.
> > Q3: At which point during the above modifications is
upgrading the fuel
> > system required?
Fuel system upgrade is
STAGE 2 of the mods for sure ! It is the next mod after
air filter and boost
controller and comes before any exhaust mod (only gutting
the pre-cats
may help).
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage
under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 12:03:32 -0700
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bosch
Plugs
Yea Jeff I tried them out in my new Infiniti q45 this weekend. They
seem
no different though in power but in a car like that I'm not sure if
I
would. And for anyone thinking the 3000 was hard to change plugs the
q45
is a mountain compared. Took me 7 hrs to change 8 plugs and plenty
of
cuts and bruises :(
Pete Palamara
92 3000vr-4(GTO)
500 hp of
Fun
(303)689-4733
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
Jeffrey Young [SMTP:jefyoung@ix.netcom.com]
>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 10:38 AM
> To: Stealth - Team 3S
>
Subject: Team3S: Bosch Plugs
>
> Has anybody tried or have
comments on the new Bosch platinum plug
> with
> the
four electrodes?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeffrey
>
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 14:08:03 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo
upgrade stages (gets longish)
I realize not many people will reach this
level but how big is to big of a
turbo? Anyone know when the turbo will be to
much for the engine to handle?
Xannieria
3SI #130
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 14:35:58 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: and I quote
(Changed to AWD DYNO) Major News!
Todd, much thanks.
To
everybody...This place REALLY does have an AWD Dyno!
I just got off the phone
with JC at this place, (7I4 - 842-3338) I forgot to
get the shops
name.
They are actually opening for business 3/13/99 (grand opening) and he
does do
dyno work on All Wheel Drive cars. They are in Huntington Beach, CA
not
exactly around the corner from me, but closer then Europe. Dyno time runs
$150
per hour plus $65. for the tech's time if needed. Sure, I find this dyno
after
yanking out the motor, tranny Etc. But, I'll expect to get to this dyno
in the
not to distant future. For those of you who can go now, the rest of us
will
really appreciate the results.
Hey Roger, we have found one in the
states only about 3000 miles from me.
(grin)
Arty 91 VR-4
In a
message dated 2/8/99 7:26:39 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Q11981@email.mot.com
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: and I quote
Date: 2/8/99 7:26:39
AM Pacific Standard Time
From: Q11981@email.mot.com (Todd
Schmalzried)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(stealth 3s)
March 1999 Road & Track page 149 lower
left
"UNDER PRESSURE R & D:After-market performance
product leader. .snip.
Engine, 2WD and ONLY AWD chassis dyno in the
U.S.A.! Complete online
ordering. www.uprd.com
(714)842-3338"
Looks like there might actually be an AWD dyno
in the country. I just
thought you guys might be interested. I haven't
called them yet, I'm on a
plane on the way home right
now.
--
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 12:39:04 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: 6G72
reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
When we talk about big
turbos what we really mean is maxiumum sustainable
boost. The cylinder
pressure is really what is at issue for engine
longevity.
You can kill
the engine with the stock turbos without trying very hard as a
few have
demonstrated. So lets assume no detonation (a tough problem in
itself),
proper mixture etc.
The 3000GT bottom end is VERY beefy with 1993 and
after models. This
includes the NA and TT engines. The rods are
very stout, the crank is an
excellent forging, the stud girdle on the crank
is beefy and a feature found
in very few engines, the block is heavy and
thick which means less movement
due to torsional stress, the main caps are
four bolts (2 bolts for 91-92).
All that adds up to high reliability under
extreme duress ;)
The weak link in a stock engine is the cast
pistons. Changing to true
forgings should make an otherwise stock 6G72
virtually bulletproof. By
comparison, the 6G72 is built tougher than
any stock American smallblock.
That is comparing a 181 CID engine to a
300-350 CID engine. I compared a
rod from my engine to a smallblock
Ford (302) and it was immedaitely obvious
which rod would hold up. Even
an Eagle rod (big dollar custom rods) didn't
look much better than the stock
6G72 rod. The 6G72 is very tough.
I have heard (but do not have
first hand experience) that the 6G72 bottom
end is much beefier than say a
Supra 3L bottom end. (Wait for the flames
from the Supra camp on that
one - heh)
I don't know of anyone running 30 psi just yet, but a number
of list members
have run 25+ psi and their engines are still together.
I would wager that
30 psi is achievable without causing immediate
failure. How far beyond that
who knows. As to long term
reliability even at 21+ psi, that's unknown
also. I ran 18 psi
regularly with excursions into 21 psi for a little less
than a year and the
crank, rods and bearings that came out of my '94
(destroyed by detonation)
engine were perfect leading me to believe that
much more boost is
realistic. I do not believe the stock cast pistons will
handle high
boost for very long though.
The above is evidenced by the fact that rod
and crank failures not related
to poor maintenance are virtually
non-existant. Rod and crank bearing
failures can occur but seem to be
isolated to 91-92 engines or improper
installation of the bearings after a
rebuild.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
> MrX2111@aol.com
>
Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 12:08 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
>
>
>
I realize not many people will reach this level but how big is to big of
a
> turbo? Anyone know when the turbo will be to much for the
engine
> to handle?
>
> Xannieria
> 3SI #130
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:50:22 +0100
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tires for VR4
> Maybe it's different in Australia but in
the rest of the
> world (as I know it) the stock size for a VR-4 is
245/45-17.
> (245/40-18 for the newer cars.)
Hehe, Australia
is probably a lot like New Zealand in that
we get the Japanese GTO-VR4.
I know for a fact that the
first gen GTO-VR4's came with 16" wheels using
225/55-16
tires.
I know that some people will state that the discs
will not
fit within these wheels, but maybe they gave them more room
or
used smaller discs :(
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 14:46:19 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 6G72
reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
Dam, thanks for all that
info. I cannot imagine what a 30psi run would be
like. I was in bob fontanas
car witha a 21 or 22 (fogot) run and may i say
HOLY SHIT that car moves
8)
Xannieria
3SI #130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 14:09:28 -0600
From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: BORLA: was: Best kept secret?
For those of you still
interested in this. I know there was talk about the
Jegs deal being over, but
it's not. You do have to ask specifically about it
though. Today I ordered
the stainless Borla cat back for 489 (7 bucks more,
so what) plus 10 service.
It should be at my house Wed. I talked to Arron,
operator #252 in case you're
interested.
I know it doesn't help power, but I need 4 new tips and I
hate the way
exhaust only comes out 1 side.
One question for anybody
who has installed this system. They show the same
part # for 91-96 TT's. I
have a '91. Will I have to do any tweaking to get
it to
fit?
Thanks
Todd
Marc Spinale wrote:
>
> After
much research, I picked up a Borla cat back system a few months ago
> for
my 93 VR4 -- only $479. $486 at my door. This was by far the best
price
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
q11981@email.mot.com
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny
for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 15:16:24 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: BORLA:
was: Best kept secret?
I've installed the Borla an its an easy
fit
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 2/8/99 12:12:20 PM Pacific
Standard Time,
Q11981@email.mot.com
writes:
<<
One question for anybody who has installed
this system. They show the same
part # for 91-96 TT's. I have a '91.
Will I have to do any tweaking to get
it to
fit?
Thanks
Todd
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 15:53:40 -0500
From: Jason and Cristy Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Tires for VR4
Just FYI, tire rack is selling 245/45/17
Pirelli Pzeros for $199 ea. I had NTB
(previously NTW) price match
them, and I'd imagine that other companies will price match
also, if you
include shipping of course. Shipping equated to about $10 per
tire.
Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 15:04:18 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S:Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment
Paul,
In my opinion,
'tricking' the ECU is a bad way to adjust engine parameters.
I tried to do
this on another car once using the coolant temp sensor. It
didnt work very
well.
Two major drawbacks that i see right off the bat are, (1) you will
be
running rich all the time, when the engine is cold, it may not run
very
good, (2) It may go out of the specified range at full throttle, causing
a
trouble code.
Now, with that said, go for it! The worst that can
happen is you will have
to adjust it back to spec, right? Although, you may
want to adjust it while
holding the throttle open, so you know that it has
enough 'play' in it, and
it wont physically break.
At 11:14 AM 2/8/99
-0700, you wrote:
>It would seem that
>if you turned it all of
the way counter clockwise the car would run richer
>because the ECU would
think that the throttle is opened more and therefore
>inject more
fuel. Any thoughts on this?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 15:51:13 -0500
From: "Nexus Motorsports" <nexus@alleyesonme.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 6G72 reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
Skimming
the list today and saw this post. I'd like to second what Barry
has
mentioned here, and add a little to it.
>The weak link in a stock
engine is the cast pistons. Changing to true
>forgings should make
an otherwise stock 6G72 virtually bulletproof.
This is true. Almost
all cases of engine failure we've seen are related to
melted pistons caused
by excessive detonation. The rods are some of the
strongest you'll ever
find, aftermarket or not. In fact, if you call any
reputable
aftermarket rod company, they will tell you that Mitsubishi makes
some of the
finest factory rods and that there really is no market for a set
of
aftermarket forged rods for these cars as well as the DSM cars.
>I
have heard (but do not have first hand experience) that the 6G72
bottom
>end is much beefier than say a Supra 3L bottom end. (Wait
for the flames
>from the Supra camp on that one - heh)
I'd say that
they are very comparable. All you hear about in the press is
Toyota
engines are "detuned race motor" this, and ultra-tough that.
Nobody
ever gives credit to Mitsubishi. The Supra camp always have the
pride that
their engines are made ultra tough, what they don't realize is
that Mitsu
engines are built just as well. They should think about that
next time they
try and put down our cars.
>The above is evidenced
by the fact that rod and crank failures not related
>to poor maintenance
are virtually non-existant. Rod and crank bearing
>failures can
occur but seem to be isolated to 91-92 engines or improper
>installation
of the bearings after a rebuild.
This is also true. We've only seen
one case of rod and crank bearing
failures on the 6G72 due to anything other
than poor maintenance, and that
was on a 92 engine. The fact that the
bearings were worn down to the copper
(most likely due to the lack of engine
oil for a few seconds) probably
contributed to bearing failure, but it wasn't
the ultimate cause of death.
Change your oil every 3,000 miles or less, watch
your air/fuel ratio
carefully, and your engine should live a long and happy
life.
Chien
Nexus Motorsports Import
Performance Parts Specialists
http://www.nexusmotorsports.com
Phone:
(301) 631-9210
Fax: (301) 631-9211
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 14:46:11 -0600
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: BORLA: was: Best kept secret?
If the listkeepers permit
such things, I'd like to do a little market
research...
If I was to
produce a replacement exhaust kit for a 3000GT,
how many of you would be
interested in purchasing it?
Let's say it was a kit consisting of a 3.5
in. cat back pipe, a Y
connection, two mandrel-bent 3.5 in. steel tail
pipes, two straight
through mufflers (make and model TBD), 2 4-in.
exhaust tips, and all
necessary hangers and clamps. With this kit, you could
remove your entire
stock exhaust system (from the cat back) and hang it up in
your garage.
Target price is $250 plus shipping.
Questions:
Any technical changes necessary in the specs listed
above?
Any suggestions on the mufflers (SuperTrapp, etc)? Should they be
optional?
Should the tail pipes be configured to allow installation of ANY
racing or
straight-through muffler?
Does anyone offer a package like
this commercially? (Tell me, and I'll buy
it from them and forget this
foolishness).
Does it sound like a good deal (especially considering that
Borlas are
$500-750)?
If I use my 94 VR4 as a model, how many other
3000/Stealth models would it
fit?
All comments are welcome.
If the
response is favorable, I'll do it.
Respond on list or off to merritt@cedar-rapids.net
Rich/Old
Poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 15:55:48 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
6G72 reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
Right on about the
pistons. We have melted down a few trying to exceed 1.1
bar with 13Gs
and stock fuel. The rods are much stronger it took 20lbs
boost + 75
shot of NOS + 6000 rpm launch to twist and break one of those!
Frank
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Barry E. King <beking@home.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, February 08, 1999 2:39 PM
Subject: Team3S: 6G72 reliability: (WAS:
Turbo upgrade stages)
>When we talk about big turbos what we
really mean is maxiumum sustainable
>boost. The cylinder pressure is
really what is at issue for engine
>longevity.
>
>You can kill
the engine with the stock turbos without trying very hard as a
>few have
demonstrated. So lets assume no detonation (a tough problem
in
>itself), proper mixture etc.
>
>The 3000GT bottom end is
VERY beefy with 1993 and after models. This
>includes the NA and TT
engines. The rods are very stout, the crank is an
>excellent
forging, the stud girdle on the crank is beefy and a feature
found
>in
very few engines, the block is heavy and thick which means less
movement
>due to torsional stress, the main caps are four bolts (2 bolts
for 91-92).
>All that adds up to high reliability under extreme duress
;)
>
>The weak link in a stock engine is the cast pistons.
Changing to true
>forgings should make an otherwise stock 6G72 virtually
bulletproof. By
>comparison, the 6G72 is built tougher than any
stock American smallblock.
>That is comparing a 181 CID engine to a
300-350 CID engine. I compared a
>rod from my engine to a smallblock
Ford (302) and it was immedaitely
obvious
>which rod would hold
up. Even an Eagle rod (big dollar custom rods) didn't
>look much
better than the stock 6G72 rod. The 6G72 is very tough.
>
>I
have heard (but do not have first hand experience) that the 6G72
bottom
>end is much beefier than say a Supra 3L bottom end. (Wait
for the flames
>from the Supra camp on that one - heh)
>
>I
don't know of anyone running 30 psi just yet, but a number of
list
members
>have run 25+ psi and their engines are still
together. I would wager that
>30 psi is achievable without causing
immediate failure. How far beyond
that
>who knows. As to
long term reliability even at 21+ psi, that's unknown
>also. I ran
18 psi regularly with excursions into 21 psi for a little less
>than a
year and the crank, rods and bearings that came out of my '94
>(destroyed
by detonation) engine were perfect leading me to believe that
>much more
boost is realistic. I do not believe the stock cast pistons
will
>handle high boost for very long though.
>
>The above is
evidenced by the fact that rod and crank failures not related
>to poor
maintenance are virtually non-existant. Rod and crank
bearing
>failures can occur but seem to be isolated to 91-92 engines or
improper
>installation of the bearings after a
rebuild.
>
>
>Regards,
>
>Barry
>
>>
-----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
>> MrX2111@aol.com
>> Sent: Monday,
February 08, 1999 12:08 PM
>> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets
longish)
>>
>>
>> I realize not many people will
reach this level but how big is to big of
a
>> turbo? Anyone know
when the turbo will be to much for the engine
>> to
handle?
>>
>> Xannieria
>> 3SI #130
>> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 13:10:16 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
Hey Barry;
Enjoyed
your post. Real bite and chew on it information...the kind that makes this
the
best 3S group around.
One comment and one
question.
Question: You note the strong blocks/engines from 93 and
up, mentioning 2 bolt mains
on the 92-91's and some other
(?) problems with the latter. Bumber dude, I'm running a
92 as you
know...what can we expect, anticipate, or converesely, be careful of with
the
first of the first generation? No problems yet-and don't want
any!
Comment: The staged upgrades noted seem to have the boost control
and air filter mods
listed last, and fuel upgrades first. I am inclined to
think, as Roger noted, that the
former are easy mods compared to the
others listed, and should prove less than dangerous
if boost is kept under 1
bar. They're modest and a good bang for the buck. After that,
it's deeeeeep
pockets.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:19:47 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
> I realize not many
people will reach this level but how big is to big of a
> turbo? Anyone
know when the turbo will be to much for the engine to handle?
The bigger
the turbo the bigger the lag you'll get. I'm pretty sure that the 20G
is
about too much concerning this. Big turbos can hold boost on high rpms
so
it's a question to what level of boost you want to go. The higher the
boost the
higher octane or any other detonation prevention you have to go.
Assuming going
to 20psi a 16G should be enough. A 20G is overkill but it's
good to know to have
some more reserve :)
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:23:23 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: and I quote (Changed to AWD DYNO) Major News!
> To
everybody...This place REALLY does have an AWD Dyno!
> $150 per hour plus
$65.
Great .... but this is somewhat expensive, isn't it ??
>
Hey Roger, we have found one in the states only about 3000 miles from
me.
> (grin)
Gulp, that's a little bit far away but a good start
!
Hope to see any dyno figures from the States
soon.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:34:44 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 6G72 reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
Hey
Barry,
Very good facts that I want to double ! As the rings and pistons
were gone the
rest of the engine looked very good not saying excellent. The
car has 60k miles
on it and the walls are looking like a car with saying
about 10k, even with the
broken rings and ringland !
Today I know that
I ran too much boost and detonation killed the parts. If
detonation is under
control up to 20 psi, I'm positive that the stock pistons
and rings should be
able to withstand this.
Also 25psi on a 1/4 mile should be fine but what
when I'm running with speeds
over 174mph on the Autobahn for 20 minutes ??
Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:46:23 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: BORLA: was: Best kept secret?
Rich,
> If the
listkeepers permit such things, I'd like to do a little market
>
research...
Null problemo, it's of interest for all :)
> Any
technical changes necessary in the specs listed above?
Due to my
experiences a 3 inch inside diameter works good but the steel should
be
stainless and thick, thicker than the Borla to prevent the damn
resonances.
Also, it is a good idea to use a large muffler with a straight
thru design.. The
concept can be still the same as on the stock part but with
better and larger
piping. Louder is ok but the damn droning the Borla does is
unacceptable the
longer I drive it !!
To prevent any more resonances
add two flex sections before the muffler and
before going to the passengers
side.
If you have to add a good non-droning-muffler, using thicker
stainless steel and
flex sections I'm sure that the thing will hit the $500
barrier. But quality has
its price !
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:50:31 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: BORLA: was: Best kept secret?
> One question for anybody
who has installed this system. They show the same
> part # for 91-96 TT's.
I have a '91. Will I have to do any tweaking to get
> it to fit?
It
fitted without any problems on the 93 as well and should on the
earlier
models too.
Good luck and have some Ohropax ready
;-)
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,HKS SBOV,
ATR DP/ tespipe,Borla
Cat-back,OZ Mito2 rims,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,
Bremsa brakes,Pagid
RS-R pads
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:09:24 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: How big is too big
I think it has more to do with your
air/fuel ratio, and how much boost you
are running, not how big the turbo is.
You could have one person running
the stock turbo at 20psi with no fuel
system modifications, and another
running 20G's at 20psi with a modified fuel
system set at an optimum A/F
ratio. Guess which engine will last
longer?
On the other hand, you could say too big is when you have so much
lag, by
the time you get spooled up, your competition has crossed the finish
line....
Wayne
At 02:08 PM 2/8/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>how big is to big of a turbo?
>Anyone know when the turbo
will be to much for the engine to handle?
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 15:05:32 -0700
From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
Subject: Team3S: manifold
needed
For anyone who upgraded to the imp or another manifold and still
has
their stock one please email me privately if you are willing to
part
with it and for what price... If you want allot don't bother I'm
looking
for a test manifold for an upgrade I'm thinking about.
Thanx
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 17:35:38 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
Is this what a "bi-turbo"
installation tries to avoid? A small turbo to
spin up faster, coupled
with a big turbo for the high end "power"?
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Vital papers will
demonstrate their vitality by moving from where you left
them to where you
can't find them.
On Mon, 8 Feb 1999, R.G. wrote:
[snip]
>
The bigger the turbo the bigger the lag you'll get. I'm pretty sure that
>
the 20G is about too much concerning this. Big turbos can hold boost on
>
high rpms so
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 14:35:39 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: BORLA: was: Best kept secret?
Merritt wrote:
> If I
was to produce a replacement exhaust kit for a 3000GT,
> how many of you
would be interested in purchasing it?
Rich,
Glad to see you made
it to this list!
I'm sure a lot of folks would be VERY interested.
But why stop at the
cat? Could you also do a (for offroad use only:))
downpipe that
eliminates the precats and a test pipe to replace the main
cat? It
would be great to have a 'turbo-back' exhaust, yet be able to
plug in a
main cat for emissions testing.
As far as mufflers, it would
be nice to have at least two choices: loud,
quiet, and maybe a third choice
inbetween. It would be great to rate
them in decibels and have the
decibel rating of the stock exhaust to
compare them with, at perhaps a
low (2500) and a high (6000) RPM.
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:51:24 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
Thats exatcly right.
Although i've never heard it reffered to as
'bi-turbo'. This type of system
is what the 93+ RX-7's use.
At 05:35 PM 2/8/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>Is this what a "bi-turbo" installation tries to avoid? A
small turbo to
>spin up faster, coupled with a big turbo for the high end
"power"?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 17:03:11 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dyno session results !
I found good results in my fuel pump
upgrade. I was having what I thought
was light detination or light
fuel cut above 1 bar in the 5000 rpm range.
It was due to lack of
fuel. I upgraded the pump and it ran much better in
that range.
I also added a FPR .. just trying to squeeze a bit more out of
the stock
injectors (until my new 560's come in) !.
Brian
93 vr-4
SNIP
8<---------
I doubt that it makes sense to upgrade the fuel
pump
only.
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 00:17:28 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
> Thats exatcly right.
Although i've never heard it reffered to as
> 'bi-turbo'. This type of
system is what the 93+ RX-7's use.
Well, such a system is called
Sequential Twin Turbo System. The Supra TT is the
most typical system I know
of. It works with different gates that open and
closes in different stages.
IMHO, a too complicated system. Adding a boost
controller is not that easy
and can cause damage to the second turbo as the
gates are not operating with
the proper pressure then.
Our system is more a "parallel twin turbo"
compared to these setups.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 00:20:54 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: BORLA: was: Best kept secret?
> As far as mufflers, it
would be nice to have at least two choices: loud,
> quiet, and maybe a
third choice inbetween. It would be great to rate
> them in decibels
and have the decibel rating of the stock exhaust to
> compare them
with, at perhaps a low (2500) and a high (6000) RPM.
This would be
nice, although the droning is not shown in dB but from 2000 to
2700 the
mirror slightly vibrates with the Borla (makes the picture somewhat
blurred).
After 3000 every tone is ok :)
Keep us updated
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 00:33:49 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno session results !
> I found good results in my fuel pump
upgrade. I was having what I thought
> was light detination or light
fuel cut above 1 bar in the 5000 rpm range.
Well, there is no "light"
fuel cut. Fuel cut means you'll almost bite in your
steering wheel when it
kicks in. Also the detonation cannot be heard in that
area so what you felt
was a hesitation caused by the retarded timing.
On the dyno, the A/F ratio
was good enough so far and as the IDC came to 99% the
injectors where at
their end.
IMHO, increasing the fuel pressure does not really mean that
you'll increase the
flow rate of the injectors. They flow 360cc when fully
open and that's it.
> It was due to lack of fuel.
What was
your A/F ratio in this area before and after the pump upgrade ?
> I
also added a FPR .. just trying to squeeze a bit more out of
> the stock
injectors (until my new 560's come in) !.
Well, our cars already have a
fuel pressure regulator and it is boost regulated.
To what level have you set
the pressure then ? Also, to waht distance are the
plugs gapped
?
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 16:45:58 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Turbo upgrade stages (gets longish)
> -----Original
Message-----
> Question: You note the strong blocks/engines from 93
and up,
> mentioning 2 bolt mains
> on the 92-91's and some
other (?) problems with the latter.
> Bumber dude, I'm running
a
> 92 as you know...what can we expect, anticipate, or
converesely,
> be careful of with the
> first of the first
generation? No problems yet-and don't want any!
The 91-92 engines are
pretty tough too from all accounts, it is just that
93+ are much
stronger. Keep the oil clean and all should be well.
> Comment:
The staged upgrades noted seem to have the boost control
> and air filter
mods
> listed last, and fuel upgrades first.
I threw those in as
things that can be done almost anytime actually, since
they are add-ons (with
the exception of the boost controller) which may or
may not be required
immediately.
I agree with the 15 psi (1 bar or so) maxiumum, something I
have harped
about as you know ;) for a very long
time.
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 16:48:47 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
6G72 reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
Personally, extended
high stress use is where I would want good forged
pistons. Road courses
or (you lucky dawg) wide open Autobahn runs at high
boost will definitely be
much harder on the engine than a 11-12 second blast
down the 1320' now and
then, or even frequently. Cast pistons are just not
optimal but should
hopefully hold up if you keep the mixture correct and do
not detonate
much.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hey Barry,
>
> Very good facts that I
want to double ! As the rings and pistons
> were gone the
> rest of
the engine looked very good not saying excellent. The car
> has 60k
miles
> on it and the walls are looking like a car with saying about
10k,
> even with the
> broken rings and ringland !
>
>
Today I know that I ran too much boost and detonation killed the parts.
If
> detonation is under control up to 20 psi, I'm positive that
the
> stock pistons
> and rings should be able to withstand
this.
>
> Also 25psi on a 1/4 mile should be fine but what when I'm
running
> with speeds
> over 174mph on the Autobahn for 20 minutes
??
>
> Regards,
> Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 17:49:09 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Dyno session results !
It wasn't fuel cut. I know what
that feels like. As forth FPR and
squeezing a bit more out... you
can. That flow rate is at stock rating. I
have increased the
pressure by about 10 psi. This has allowed me about 1-2
more psi of
boost after raising the fuel pressure. My plugs are gapped at
.033 As for the A/F before and after .. I don't know. I just
installed
the EGT and don't have a comparison. But this solved my
problem with the
ignition retard (reason I said fuel (shouldn't have said
cut) was because
it disappeared after the fuel pump upgrade). It can't
hurt to do the fuel
pump now if you have it handy :)
> I
found good results in my fuel pump upgrade. I was having what I
thought
> was light detination or light fuel cut above 1 bar in the
5000 rpm range.
Well, there is no "light" fuel cut. Fuel cut means you'll
almost bite in
your
steering wheel when it kicks in. Also the detonation
cannot be heard in
that
area so what you felt was a hesitation caused by
the retarded timing.
On the dyno, the A/F ratio was good enough so far and as
the IDC came to
99% the
injectors where at their end.
IMHO, increasing
the fuel pressure does not really mean that you'll
increase the
flow rate
of the injectors. They flow 360cc when fully open and that's it.
> It
was due to lack of fuel.
What was your A/F ratio in this area before and
after the pump upgrade ?
> I also added a FPR .. just trying to
squeeze a bit more out of
> the stock injectors (until my new 560's come
in) !.
Well, our cars already have a fuel pressure regulator and it is
boost
regulated.
To what level have you set the pressure then ? Also, to
waht distance are
the
plugs gapped ?
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 16:44:52 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Dyno session results !
Hi Brian;
Your post presupposes
that you already have the BC and likely an air mod as well (ie running
above 1 bar) so a
fuel pump upgrade was after, not before, and Roger was
indicating a fuel upgrade before, not after mods like a
BC, was likely of
little value.
Best
Darc
Brian Danley wrote:
> I
found good results in my fuel pump upgrade. I was having what I
thought
> was light detination or light fuel cut above 1 bar in the 5000
rpm range.
> It was due to lack of fuel. I upgraded the pump
and it ran much better in
> that range. I also added a FPR .. just
trying to squeeze a bit more out of
> the stock injectors (until my new
560's come in) !.
>
> Brian
> 93 vr-4
>
> SNIP
8<---------
> I doubt that it makes sense to upgrade the fuel
pump
> only.
> Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:24:43 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: 6G72 reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
Barry E. King
wrote:
Snip
> Cast pistons are just not
> optimal but
should hopefully hold up if you keep the mixture correct and do
> not
detonate much.
>
Dr Barry...how about a short dissertation for the
great unwashed in the nether regions,
on correct mixture and how to keep it
that way . You may not use the words TRE MASC in
your explanation. :
-)
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:10:00 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Mixture and
stuff (blame Darcy) WAS: Team3S: 6G72 reliability
> Dr Barry...how
about a short dissertation for the great unwashed
> in the nether
regions,
> on correct mixture and how to keep it that way . You may not
use
> the words TRE MASC in
> your explanation. : -)
>
>
Best
>
> Darc
Heh. I dunno about the Dr. part -- I DID
afterall destroy an engine even
though I knew better ;) Actually,
I wanted a new engine anyway so I
suspect my other personality did
it...
First off, a ratio of 14.7:1 (air to fuel) is
stoichiometeric. That means
for every 14.7 units of oxygen, 1 unit of
fuel is burned. In an ideal world
this would produce the best power and
no nasty emissions. In reality, many
engines won't survive this ratio
for very long. Even so called "lean burn"
engines just get close to
that value. Furthermore, air is not pure oxygen,
combustion byproducts
are not just water and carbon dioxide (which the
"ideal" formula might
suggest), combustion is not 100% efficent nor is
automobile fuel made of just
one hydrocarbon.
Further complicating the whole mess is that air density
(as affected by
humidity or "vapor pressure", altitude, temperature as well
as the exact gas
content) does not necessarily remain constant even from one
moment to the
next.
Drivability also imposes different and dynamic
mixture requirements on the
fuel charge delivery system. Case in point
would be enrichment circuits
which are employed when the throttle is applied
abruptly.
The optimal ratio for power depends largely upon the engine
design (this
would include the whole system) but can fall anywhere between
11.5:1-13.5:1.
I usually shoot for 12.5:1 and tweak from there.
As you
can see, the "correct" mixture varies with a great number of
factors
including the particular demand being placed on the engine at any
given time
and the expectations of the driver.
I don't pretend to
understand every last aspect of internal combustion
engines. Even the
best and most experienced engineers in the automotive
industry don't know it
all. The best you can hope for is to get it close
and don't burn down
an otherwise fine engine in the process.
Things I learned from tweaking
motorcycle engines from my road race days and
the exact same prinicples apply
to our cars:
1) the leanest you can run the engine without burning
pistons is where the
most *peak* power lives - note that drivability suffers
and median HP output
is likely *lower*
2) richer than peak HP usually
means smoother torque delivery
3) some median exists which what works best
for the general case -- give and
take exists and sometimes you have to
sacrifice one good thing in favor of
another
Eight times out of ten I
tuned the bike to be lean in the bottom to the
point where it barely
ran. The mid-range was usually fattened up -- meaning
a wee bit
richer. WOT was leaner than the mid range and sometimes by quite
a bit,
typically depending on how long WOT would be seen and how much money
I wanted
to spend afterwards rebuilding. Leaner (to a point of course)
was
faster but also the hardest on parts. One race at wicked lean would
render
a new set of pistons useless for more race duty.
Lean at the
bottom meant quick throttle response. Fatter in the middle
meant smooth
power delivery when the throttle was rolled on. Modulation was
much
easier. Lean up top meant, well, all hell breaks loose and you
just
hang on. Sometimes the difference between that and decent power
was only a
jet size or two. Sometimes the elevation change from one end
of the trrack
to the other was enough that it precluded tuning for optimal
power.
The bottom line? Get a good engine management system and
leave it alone to
do its thing. For outright power and 100% racing
applications I would
almost prefer manual fuel control -- almost -- ECMs can
do amazingly cool
things. For a daily driver and sometime track machine
the stock ECU really
does an outstanding job.
For a modifed engine a
properly tuned engine management system or a
reprogrammed stock ECU with
external devices for small fine tuning
adjustments would be great.
The
things to watch, tools to use for someone tweaking external tuning
parameters
(VPC, AFC, M*SC <grin>, ITC etc.:
- - EGTs (1350 F was what I
targetted as average temperatures with brief
excursions higher then that --
J-type fast acting pyrometer was located 10"
from the flame front).
High EGTs do not always mean super lean burn.
Sometimes it can be a rich burn
with or without retarded timing -- the fuel
can be burning in the exhaust
chamber. This is why we need to be able to
monitor actual ignition
timing. EGTs when plotted aginst AFR form a bell
sort of curve.
They are hot somewhere in the middle and colder on either
side. It is
possible to have cool EGTs with an excessively lean engine.
- - *true*
UEGO devices are very useful, not the cheesy O2 sensors found in
consumer
vehicles. Note that most EGOs do not usually react quickly enough
to be
used for dynamic full closed loop operation, although some systems are
set up
to work this way. I am not talking about cruise mode here, where
closed
loop operation works great.
- - Engine knock monitor. Best thing
here is the combustion chamber plasma
detection system developed many years
ago by Audi, soon to be available to
J. Q. Public. I will post more
when I know more. Knowing when the engine
is detonating can tell you
about mixture and/or ignition timing and/or fuel
quality.
- -
Timing. Timing is crucial. With the ECU happy, it will pretty
much
choose the correct timing, but it would be nice to monitor it to know
what
the ECU thinks is good. I would very much like to twiddle with the
timing
of my VR4 but will not even think about it until I can monitor the
ECU
timing and provide for normal ECU operation in the event of
conditions
requiring reatrded timing. The Apex'i ITC for example is
just too dangerous
without truly knowing what is going on. As little as
4 degrees timing is
the difference between a powerful engine and one that is
literally turned
into a pile of melted and twisted metal.
- - Plug
chops are useful but really only with new or clean plugs and then
only for a
particular type of engine use. Puttering out to the track on
the
interstate and then checking the plugs after a blast down the 1320'
will
tell you almost nothing on the same set of plugs.
- - Reading the
piston crowns and undersides is the absolute best way to know
what is going
on mixture-wise but the practicality of that makes the point
kind of moot,
huh.
- - Make sure the engie is in prime shape and not passing excessive
amounts of
oil into the combustion chamber either past the rings or
valves. This is a
sure way to mess with the mixture in a way that is
not easy to tune around.
I don't know if the content above warrants the
length of the message but it
is a complicated subject area which can and does
fill many textbooks. The
bottom line is without proper engine
monitoring one would be wise to proceed
with extreme caution and making only
small changes and changing only one
parameter at a time. Fully
understanding the nature of a change is also
critical. Most people
frankly do not have that knowledge. This is not
meant as a slam and
people who don't understand shouldn't be offended, but
rather take it as a
caution. I'd be willing to bet that a poll taken of the
very
technicians we often entrust our cars to don't understand the ins and
outs of
combustion well enough to "properly" tuning the car. A tool like
the
ITC of even AFC can easily destroy an engine in the wrong hands,
and
sometimes even in the right hands. It takes only a few clicks of a
simple
dial. Ironically, the difference between a crappy running engine
and a good
one is also often only a few clicks away.
To me that is
reason enough to know the effects of what engine control
parameters have, and
knowing the tools you are using, and being able to get
accurate
feedback. That's why I suggest anyone considering turbo upgrades
to get
the fuel management system in place, whatever it may be, before any
turbo
upgrades. This way they can learn how to manage the engine before
they
get into a position where the nearly double horsepower available from a
full
blown upgrade can too quickly destroy the
engine.
Regards,
Barry
P.S. Just for the record, I
want nothing to do with your nether regions,
Darc -- no offsense of course
:P
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:21:49 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: turbo
Okay, here is a question that I know one of you
know..
Turbo started as an acronym. What was the
wording?
> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check
out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:07:39 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: and I quote (Changed to AWD DYNO) Major News!
How long would
it take to be Dyno'd, a couple hundred for real #'s seams
fair...
I
assume they'd be in California, all things being equal, or Texas?
-
-Bill
>> To everybody...This place REALLY does have an AWD
Dyno!
>> $150 per hour plus $65.
>
>Great .... but this is
somewhat expensive, isn't it ??
>
>> Hey Roger, we have found one
in the states only about 3000 miles from me.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:22:26 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: AWD
dyno
UPRD [ Under Pressure Research and Development ]
I live
about thirty miles from Huntington Beach and will try to stop over
and
inspect his operation.
Maybe I can get a preview of the shop before it
opens in March. In any case
I'll report anything I
can find out on this
site.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 23:50:01 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Engine Oil Filter
No it doesn't, especially when the filter
is designed to by pass
excess pressure and volume. You can make up your own
mind but NOT
everyone buys into this.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:39:58 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Re: Mixture post script
Barry E. King wrote:
snip
>
P.S. Just for the record, I want nothing to do with your
nether regions,
> Darc -- no offsense of course :P
Nether:
lower regions, outlying backwoods areas, even that which is reputed to
lie
beneath the earth as in it's hollow interior...geez, are you sure you
don't just look at
the pictures in all those books you talk about : -
)
As far as offense goes...none taken...and to all that I offend,
my sincere appologies..
and I hope I can do it again :-
)
Best
Darc
PS. Better mention STEALTH/VR4 here so we have
a team related topic...but I suspect a
big wack from my admin partners for
capricious use of band width :-)
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 19:18:27 +1100
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tires for VR4
Thanks to everybody who replied to my
post.
I have made some enquiries & there is a plethora of tyres I can
choose
from in the 235 & 245/45 in the 17 inch rim.... & at a much
better
price.
Thanks once again.
Andrew
Australia
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 09:35:11 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel pressure, pump (was: Dyno session results !)
> squeezing
a bit more out... you can. That flow rate is at stock rating.
I
> have increased the pressure by about 10 psi. This has allowed me
about 1-2
> more psi of boost after raising the fuel
pressure.
This sounds good ! But can you please describe what exactly you
have done to the
stock FPR ? Have you replaced it with an adjustable part
?
> I just installed the EGT and don't have a comparison.
This
is always a good thing ! When placed properly before the turbo it is
very
good visible when the timing gets retarded. Mike saw this on the
Autobahn as his
readings where high. After regapping the plugs the temp got
noticeable lower and
did not raise that quick again.
> It can't
hurt to do the fuel pump now if you have it handy :)
I already have it
and as it should not be a huge work it's maybe worth to give
it a try before
the next dyno session.
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 07:32:03 -0500
From: Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: DSM
technical info CD
Take a look at manualcd.dsm.org
>how much
for the cd?
>who do I contact?
<snip>
>>>I was
fascinated by a post last week (about a CD version of the
3S
>manuals,
>>>with technical bulletins), so I contacted the
source. Here's some of his
>>>response. I'm going to order one of
the CDs. I'll let you all know what it
>>>looks like after I've had
a chance to look at it.
>>
>>>1991 BODY repair manual
(shows ALL structural parts/seals/paint/etc)
>>>1994 Dodge Stealth
manual (covers ALL DS's)
>>>1991 3000gt manual (covers 91-92 3k/DS
cars)
>>>1992-1996+ 3000gt manual (covers, well you know
:)
>>>DSM technical manual (covers the T/E/L line, but applies to
the 3/s)
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:36:07 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 6G72
reliability: (WAS: Turbo upgrade stages)
In a message dated
99-02-08 16:12:07 EST, you write:
<< We've only seen one case of
rod and crank bearing
failures on the 6G72 due to anything other than
poor maintenance, and that
was on a 92 engine. The fact that the
bearings were worn down to the copper
(most likely due to the lack of
engine oil for a few seconds) probably
contributed to bearing failure,
but it wasn't the ultimate cause of death. >>
Here's one to
add - my '91 SL spun a rod bearing at 91k miles. Cause :
cracked crankshaft.
All main and rod bearings (except the destroyed one) were
in good shape.
SteveC
'91 3000GT SL
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 09:45:17 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Turbo upgrades - part 2
Thanks, Barry and Roger for the feedback
regarding the upgrades. It looks
like 15G's and fuel system upgrades are the
way to go. However, i'm still
unsure as to who, if anyone, makes headers.
What are portmasters? I've
never heard of them. Someone mentioned IMP, do
they make headers, or should
i just call Joe and find out? The last question
i have is; Is the
Trust/Greddy off road exhaust available? Thanks
everyone....
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:49:08 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Turbo upgrades - part 2
Portmasters is (was?) a "partner" with Brian
Lafuente's of GT Alley infamy.
I do not know if they can still get you a set
of headers or not, might have
to give them a call and see. My
inclination personally would be to forget
they exist...
IMP makes
headers but quite frankly they are not as good as one would hope
or even
expect. The quality is almost there but not up to snuff IMO.
I
have a prototype set which require modification before they are
installed,
and I will definitely use them, but be prepared for perhaps
minor
adjustments to get them to work.
Brad B. and Bob F. can both
comment.
My engine builder claims they should make more HP than the stock
manifolds
which is why I am going to the trouble of making them work.
Hopefully their
new production units fit better -- I suspect they do.
They are pricey at
nearly $1000 USD. From a bang for the buck
perspective, I doubt they are
justifiable, but only a dyno comparison would
tell us for sure. My builder
guy claims that $1000 USD is more than a
little outrageous, even for custom
turbo manifolds. He makes headers
all the time for NA cars.
It does _appear_ that they will offer better
top end performance, _possibly_
better spool up, and they should definitely
be better at taking heat away
from the heads. I have no idea how well
they will hold up though. Time
will tell on that one.
The
Trust/Greddy stuff and possibly Bozz Speed may be available if you can
push
the right buttons. Try Chien at Nexus and Henry at RPM. You may be
in
for a lengthy wait and in my experience expect to pay a
lot.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Thanks, Barry and Roger for the feedback regarding
the upgrades. It looks
> like 15G's and fuel system upgrades are the way
to go. However, i'm still
> unsure as to who, if anyone, makes headers.
What are portmasters? I've
> never heard of them. Someone mentioned IMP,
do they make headers,
> or should
> i just call Joe and find out?
The last question i have is; Is the
> Trust/Greddy off road exhaust
available? Thanks everyone....
>
> Wayne
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 9 Feb 1999 10:59:17 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Turbo upgrades - part 2
Barry,
You say your exhaust guy makes headers all the
time for NA cars - if this
means NA 3000GT's, can you please tell me how I
can contact him.
Thanks,
SteveC
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:33:21 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Admin Notice
H i Team;
A recent admin meeting was held in
cyberspace. The following ensued.
Personal messages/responses which can
be sent privately are absolutely
encouraged! You may assume from this
that even we ( read I ) in admin
are guilty of such infractions, but we ( I )
are reminded of them in the
same manner in which you may expect to be warned.
The object is to have
a "friendly technical" forum, with an emphasis on the
technical, but not
at the expense of friendship. Everything in
moderation/balence.
Vendor postings are becoming a concern. If they
become a plague,
something "will" be done. So, my advise personally is to be
creative
with your inroads. And, member response to such postings
should
absolutely be done privately and not posted to the list.
As
always, please take time to edit the post you are responding to...do
not
repost the entire post with your response, unless it is
merited.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #96
***************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm