--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #92
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Friday, February 5 1999         Volume 01 : Number 092




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 06:44:53 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: 92 RT TT Problem Urgent help!!!!

any ideas?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Maged Shaker <magshaker@hotmail.com>
To: stealth@dragnet.com <stealth@dragnet.com>
Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 5:07 AM
Subject: 92 RT TT Problem Urgent help!!!!


>Hi everyone,
>
>I really have a huge problem with my stealth,
>can anyone help,
>
>One fine morning I started it up no prob's then all of a sudden it just
>stopped, I tried it again but all it would do is crank but no ignition,
>I had it towed to a garage, they worked on it for two days but came up
>with nothing after they checked all the fuses an electrical circut they
>said that it could be the ECU since when on my second attempt to start
>it there was a wisp of smoke comming from behind the CD-Tape player
>panel.
>
>Does anyone out there know or can help me out here in what do you think
>is the cause of all this misery
>
>please help !
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 07:43:56 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fw: 92 RT TT Problem Urgent help!!!!

Sounds like the ECU.  There are some capacitors on the motherboard that
start leaking.  Go to http://www.tmo.com/howto/ecu1g/caps.htm.  Todd
explains what happens when they leak.

- -Bob

> any ideas?
> > <snip> Since when on my second attempt to start
> >it there was a wisp of smoke comming from behind the CD-Tape player
> >panel.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 08:54:29 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Timing belt slippage

I created the "special tool" by taking a large(14") channel lock pliers and
drilling holes in each of the jaws(3/8" holes across from each other towards
the end of the jaws).  Then get some grade 5,8 bolts and put them in the
holes.  Adjust the pliers so the bolts fit in the holes in the crank pulley
and rest the pliers on the a-arm.....loosen the crank bolt.

This worked great!! and you don't ruin the pliers!

Mark

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt     Honeywell CASSPO-Development
Phone:  957-3736     Pager: 601-0881                    
Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com         
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



- -----Original Message-----
From: PHorschel [mailto:phorschel@utah-inter.net]
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 1999 9:49 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Timing belt slippage


This is just a way to take the bolt out of the crankshaft pulley.  The
timing belt is still on the engine when you do this.  I have done this on a
few different makes of cars with no problems.  Just be sure the belt is
still on there before you do this.  A good impact wrench would be the best
way to do it.
- -Paul Horschel

> BTW-If you don't have the proper tool to keep the crankshaft from spinning
> while you remove the bolt you can put a breaker bar with a socket
> on the nut
> and back it up against the A-arm(control arm) and hit the key.  This could
> be very dangerous.  Do it at your own risk.

> I strongly advise not to do this.  These are interference engines
> (at least my 91 TT is).  If you turn over the crankshaft with the
> timing belt removed, there is a chance that the piston(s) could
> hit an open valve(s), causing severe, expensive damage to your
> engine.  The way the Mitsu mechanic here removes the pulley bolt
> is with a very high torque air impact wrench.  This removes the
> bolt without turning the engine over.  The special crankshaft
> tool is no longer available, as far as I know (not from Mitsu,
> Snapon, or Mack).



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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 11:39:33 -0600
From: "Steven A. File" <sfile@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: RIP Mitsubishi 3000 GT

It's definitely true. Our local Mitsubishi dealer got a letter from MMSA
Distribution asking how many 3000 GTs and what models they want for the
"sell down" for the model's final year (1999). I saw a copy of the letter,
so it is definitely the end of the line for the 3000 GT, at least as we know
and love it!!

Steve File
mailto:sfile@usa.net

"Some days you're the dog . . .
      . . . other days you're the hydrant."


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 17:06:56 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fw: 92 RT TT Problem Urgent help!!!!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Maged Shaker <magshaker@hotmail.com>
> To: stealth@dragnet.com <stealth@dragnet.com>
> Date: Thursday, February 04, 1999 5:07 AM
> Subject: 92 RT TT Problem Urgent help!!!!
>
> >One fine morning I started it up no prob's then all of a sudden it just
> >stopped, I tried it again but all it would do is crank but no ignition,
> >I had it towed to a garage, they worked on it for two days but came up
> >with nothing after they checked all the fuses an electrical circut they
> >said that it could be the ECU since when on my second attempt to start
> >it there was a wisp of smoke comming from behind the CD-Tape player
> >panel.

Hmm, don't know about the smoke in the cockpit but I suffered through
the same experience a few years ago after installing the FIPK (without
disconnecting the battery to reset things).  Basically, the MAS decided
it was seeing too much air and caused a shot circuit that blew a fuse
and killed the motor.  Engine would crank but no ignition.  Problem was
resolved by disconnecting the battery, disconnecting the MAS harness
plug, replacing the fuse, and reconnecting the plug, and reconnecting
the battery.  Fired right up and haven't had a problem since!

Good luck...
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 11:16:35 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: 92 RT TT Problem Urgent help!!!!

> >One fine morning I started it up no prob's then all of a sudden it just
> >stopped, I tried it again but all it would do is crank but no ignition,
> >I had it towed to a garage, they worked on it for two days but came up
> >with nothing after they checked all the fuses an electrical circut they
> >said that it could be the ECU since when on my second attempt to start
> >it there was a wisp of smoke comming from behind the CD-Tape player
> >panel.

Did they pull the error codes from the ECU?  This should help diagnose
the problem.

It sounds suspiciously like an electric component failure.  ECU or
crankshaft or camshaft angle position sensors.

Good luck,
Ken

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 14:04:43 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RIP Mitsubishi 3000 GT

"Steven A. File" wrote:

> Mitsubishi dealer got a letter from MMSA
> Distribution asking how many 3000 GTs and what models they want for the
> "sell down" for the model's final year (1999).

I was @ the St. Louis Auto show a couple of weeks ago, and I asked about the fate of the
3000 at the mitsu display.  I was told that there will be no Y2K model, but the car will
be back in 2001, completely remodled.  On a down note, I was also told that they plan on
doing away with the turbo version of the car.  They said that fewer and fewer people
were willing to pay the premium price hike for the increase in performance.  R.I.P. "TT"

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 13:08:32 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains

Regarding filtration and forced induction, it dawned on me that there
was a serious
debate on a VW Corrado list that I'm on, about whether a K&N was letting
in too
much dust and damaging the bearings on the G-Lader superchargers.   The
issue
was that the G-60 superchargers were built to extremely close tolerances
and tended
to be short-lived without "proper"filtration.  I know that the K&N (or
similar) seems
to be the first choice mod among the majority of TT owners, and I would
imagine
there would be negative comments if this mod were causing consistant
problems.

Comments?

Dave
91 VR4


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 15:53:47 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains - getting long

In furtherance of my comments...I have read reports specifically about
 K & N from a heavy equipment contractor. This company
(I'm a contractor too) runs numerous turbo diesels that cost upwards
of a million each. They did a study of using the "reusable" K&N filter
in place of the factory filters that last only a few weeks in heavy
construction environments. The results were disappointing. They did not
perform as well as the factory filters, in cleaning the air. Nothing to do
with performance in the report. The concern & disappointment was that
they could not cut the replacement costs of the factory filters by using
the "reusable" K&N due to poor filtration. If I recall it all, the heads were
in essence being sandblasted by minute particles getting through the filter.
On A Million Dollar plus machine, this is serious stuff. There is usually a
bit
of a trade off in any performance enhancement. If you get better tires,
don't they wear faster? Same with an air filter, more less restricted air, =
not filtered as well.
Arty 91 VR-4
 

In a message dated 2/4/99 12:09:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu writes:

<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains
 Date: 2/4/99 12:09:02 PM Pacific Standard Time
 From: monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu (Dave)
 Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 
 
 Regarding filtration and forced induction, it dawned on me that there
 was a serious
 debate on a VW Corrado list that I'm on, about whether a K&N was letting
 in too
 much dust and damaging the bearings on the G-Lader superchargers.   The
 issue
 was that the G-60 superchargers were built to extremely close tolerances
 and tended
 to be short-lived without "proper"filtration.  I know that the K&N (or
 similar) seems
 to be the first choice mod among the majority of TT owners, and I would
 imagine
 there would be negative comments if this mod were causing consistant
 problems.
 
 Comments?
 
 Dave
 91 VR4
  >>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 16:11:32 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods and True gains - getting long

I'd sure love to get my hands on one of those earthmover turbos...but
seriously, are the conditions the we put our cars through the same as an
earthmover or caterpillar bulldozer?

- -Bob

> If I recall it all, the heads were in essence being sandblasted by minute
particles
> getting through the filter. On A Million Dollar plus machine, this is
serious stuff. > There is usually a bit of a trade off in any performance
enhancement.

C'mon Arty, we know the REAL reason they were using K & N filters...better
trap speeds!

- -Bob

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 13:14:37 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: K&N versus Stock versus ???

- -----Original Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com [mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 1999 12:54 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains - getting long
<snip>
There is usually a bit of a trade off in any performance enhancement. If you
get better tires, don't they wear faster? Same with an air filter, more less
restricted air, = not filtered as well. Arty 91 VR-4
<end of snip>
==============================
Arty...

Good observation. One alternative...

If the aftermarket filter has more surface area than the stock, it should
allow better air flow, even if it has the same filter density. True? I think
that's a fundamental advantage of the HKS, mine has a dual bell with what I
would guess is thirty or forty square inches of filtered air flow. The stock
unit was perhaps twelve square inches. BTW...I'm not a fan of paper filters,
which is why I didn't buy the K&N.

However, filter density could be a big factor. I know there's some strip
racers who pull their filter entirely (for a 1/4 mile) and some who run a
nylon over the mouth. Both would allow a considerable increase of flow (over
stock OR aftermarket). Ahhhhh, but the risk.

Soooo, the question for those of you with daily drivers...has anyone ever
used the stock assembly for daily driving, then put on the aftermarket for
race days? This is one of those cases where I wish I lived down the street
from Roger Gerl, so we could swap parts on and off, and dyno the car with
every change. Ahhh, for an AWD dyno in town.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 16:44:04 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains - getting long

In a message dated 2/4/99 1:13:57 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bfontana@securitytechnologies.com writes:

<< Subj: RE: Team3S: Mods and True gains - getting long
 Date: 2/4/99 1:13:57 PM Pacific Standard Time
 From: bfontana@securitytechnologies.com (Bob Fontana)
 
Hi Bob, probably not. But, I'd bet the air velocity going into your filter at
WOT is substantially greater then one of these monster machines. And, yeah one
of these turbos would be fun to try.
Arty
 
 I'd sure love to get my hands on one of those earthmover turbos...but
 seriously, are the conditions the we put our cars through the same as an
 earthmover or caterpillar bulldozer?
 
 -Bob
  >>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 15:09:55 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: K&N versus Stock versus ???

It is generally accepted that any filter that gives you greater air flow is not going to
filter air as well. If you want a micron filter, and I'm sure someone could fabricate
one, then expect severe flow restrictions with impecable filtration. Also be prepared to
change it every day, and to have low, low performance. But, you'll have a shiny engine
interior  :-)

I doubt  I would run my car in heavy dust situations with a K&N, and were these
conditions the norm, as with the heavy equipment guy, I would opt for the OE filter and
put it and the box back on my car. Why be stupid when you don't have to be.

Generally common sense makes sense. You get what you pay for, and you get what the
manufacturer indicates his product is best  for.

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 18:19:43 -0500
From: "Alex Gregory" <agtkache@unity.ncsu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: 3SI discount

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B0_01BE506A.F02BA460
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Guys, somebody mentioned that some dealer could give BSI discount if you =
on a list. Would somebody give some feed back on this, please.



- ------=_NextPart_000_00B0_01BE506A.F02BA460
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1700"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Guys, somebody mentioned that some =
dealer could=20
give BSI discount if you on a list. Would somebody give some feed back =
on this,=20
please.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B0_01BE506A.F02BA460--

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 18:21:26 -0500
From: "Alex Gregory" <agtkache@unity.ncsu.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: 3SI discount

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C0_01BE506B.2D9F7420
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="koi8-r"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


Sorry for previous misspelling of the list.

Guys, somebody mentioned that some dealer could give 3si discount if you =
on a list. Would somebody give some feed back on this, please.
=20


- ------=_NextPart_000_00C0_01BE506B.2D9F7420
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="koi8-r"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Dkoi8-r =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Sorry for previous misspelling of the=20
list.<BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Guys, somebody mentioned that some =
dealer could=20
give 3si discount if you on a list. Would somebody give some feed back =
on this,=20
please.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00C0_01BE506B.2D9F7420--

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 17:35:54 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mods and True gains - getting long

I think it is of greater concern in some parts of the country over others.
Here in AZ dust and sand particles would be a bigger concern -- it gets
everywhere.  Might also be the case in some other dry and dusty areas
whereas it may not be on the coasts.

In any case, the point is well taken.  Driving around in a sand pit or a
mine all day is different than cruising on paved roads.  I think.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> I'd sure love to get my hands on one of those earthmover turbos...but
> seriously, are the conditions the we put our cars through the same as an
> earthmover or caterpillar bulldozer?
>
> -Bob
>
> > If I recall it all, the heads were in essence being sandblasted
> by minute
> particles
> > getting through the filter. On A Million Dollar plus machine, this is
> serious stuff. > There is usually a bit of a trade off in any performance
> enhancement.
>
> C'mon Arty, we know the REAL reason they were using K & N filters...better
> trap speeds!
>
> -Bob

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 17:15:23 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tranny problem?

Hi Guys,
I've got a question for those of you who know a decent amount about
trannies.  I just had my (mitsu) 5-speed rebuilt by my dealer, under
warranty, (1st, 2nd synchros replaced, 1st, 2nd gear bearings replaced) and
the notchy shifting I had experienced before is reduced and eliminated in
some cases.  However sometimes, especially when it's cold, the shifter is
still really notchy, and a couple of times has even ground the gears (1st
and 2nd).

Symptoms(all with clutch on the floor, fully disengaged- yes, it's adjusted
properly):
 
1) two-phase shifting- shifter goes about halfway into gear, reaches
resistance, and then slips all the way into gear.  (maybe synchro/collar
contact, followed by collar/gear contact?)  Worse when cold.

2) (about 3 times in the last month) really cacophonous gear grating
noise...example conditions:  just started out of parking lot after work (40F
and car's been sitting for 9 hours), 1st is fine(going easy), get to 3500RPM
or so, decide to shift to 2nd, shifter comes halfway back, meets resistance,
pull a little harder, nasty grinding noise, put it back in neutral, try
again for 2nd after having everyone in the parking lot staring at me, 2nd
engages smoothly, I leave parking lot with tail between legs.


This doesn't seem normal to me, and the second symptom, although very
infrequent and only when cold(so far)is very troubling.  #2 happened once
while trying to downshift to 1st while going 7.36mph and attempting to
rev-match, too.

So, any ideas?  Should I go back to the dealer?  Maybe the synchros aren't
sticky enough at low temperatures? (Technical: low coefficient of friction
at the synchro/collar interface in cold conditions?)  Does our layshaft have
a HUGE rotational inertia or something?  Is my tranny a piece of crap?
Comments, please... :)

TIA
- --Erik


- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 48k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
- ------                                             ----------
   "Without somehow destroying me in the process, how could
    God reveal Himself in a way that would leave no room for
    doubt?  If there were no room for doubt, there would be
    no room for me."                    --Frederick Buechner
- -------------------------------------------------------------

 
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 17:39:46 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fw: 3SI discount

Alex Gregory wrote:

>   Sorry for previous misspelling of the list.
>
> Actually we try and think of it as a team (Team 3S) but 3Si will do
> for now. As per your query, Chen at Nexus has always afforded us a
> discount. You can start there, and by then, there's sure to be a few
> more of our friends in commerce/motorsports who'll give you an idea of
> their downright fair and competitive nature. : )
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
>
>
>



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 21:45:37 -0500
From: "Marc Spinale" <mspinale@mediaone.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tranny problem?

Erik,

My 93 transmission (#2 from Mitsu) had the exact same problem you describe
(1st to 2nd). I believe it's definitely an internal defect. In my case, a
rebuilt tranny was installed to fix another problem and the new problem you
describe began.  I made the mistake of assuming that they simply adjusted
the cables incorrectly.

It had resistance going into 2nd gear from 1st.  It did not happen all the
time but often enough to be a nuisance.  My Mitsu dealer explained that they
were not authorized to do even the smallest of repairs on the units. Not
even a seal or gasket so I'm surprised to hear that they opened yours up.

I wonder if the dealer put the wrong fluid in it.  Almost sounds like
there's heavy weight gear fluid inside.  I would go back to the dealer and
insist that they fix it.  If they give you trouble, ask for the contact info
for their Mitsubishi Rep,

Hope this helps!

Good luck.
- -Marc
93 VR4

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Gross, Erik
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 1999 8:15 PM
> To: 'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'; 'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'
> Subject: Team3S: Tranny problem?
>
>
> Hi Guys,
> I've got a question for those of you who know a decent amount about
> trannies.  I just had my (mitsu) 5-speed rebuilt by my dealer, under
> warranty, (1st, 2nd synchros replaced, 1st, 2nd gear bearings
> replaced) and
> the notchy shifting I had experienced before is reduced and eliminated in
> some cases.  However sometimes, especially when it's cold, the shifter is
> still really notchy, and a couple of times has even ground the gears (1st
> and 2nd).
>
> Symptoms(all with clutch on the floor, fully disengaged- yes,
> it's adjusted
> properly):
>
> 1) two-phase shifting- shifter goes about halfway into gear, reaches
> resistance, and then slips all the way into gear.  (maybe synchro/collar
> contact, followed by collar/gear contact?)  Worse when cold.
>
> 2) (about 3 times in the last month) really cacophonous gear grating
> noise...example conditions:  just started out of parking lot
> after work (40F
> and car's been sitting for 9 hours), 1st is fine(going easy), get
> to 3500RPM
> or so, decide to shift to 2nd, shifter comes halfway back, meets
> resistance,
> pull a little harder, nasty grinding noise, put it back in neutral, try
> again for 2nd after having everyone in the parking lot staring at me, 2nd
> engages smoothly, I leave parking lot with tail between legs.
>
>
> This doesn't seem normal to me, and the second symptom, although very
> infrequent and only when cold(so far)is very troubling.  #2 happened once
> while trying to downshift to 1st while going 7.36mph and attempting to
> rev-match, too.
>
> So, any ideas?  Should I go back to the dealer?  Maybe the synchros aren't
> sticky enough at low temperatures? (Technical: low coefficient of friction
> at the synchro/collar interface in cold conditions?)  Does our
> layshaft have
> a HUGE rotational inertia or something?  Is my tranny a piece of crap?
> Comments, please... :)
>
> TIA
> --Erik
>
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT 48k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
> ------                                             ----------
>    "Without somehow destroying me in the process, how could
>     God reveal Himself in a way that would leave no room for
>     doubt?  If there were no room for doubt, there would be
>     no room for me."                    --Frederick Buechner
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 22:05:42 -0500
From: Irving & Ana Jimenez <lt1power@crystal.palace.net>
Subject: Team3S: Estimated HorsePower ?

- --------------F5347329521C148A94E88721
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hey Gang !

Well I'm about to embark on another high performance adventure
( it seems I can't leave well-enough alone - )
I'm about to order some parts for my car and want to get a feel of about how much power
I should be making with these mods

Order List :

K&N Filter
HKS Cat back System ( dual tip )
Down pipe ( not sure which brand yet )
HKS Boost Controller
HKS SBOV

note my car is a "96 VR-4 with 41K miles

Any estimates would be greatly appreciated :o)
especially what 1/4 mile times anyone has seen with these or similar mods

Irving



- --------------F5347329521C148A94E88721
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<HTML>


<P>Hey Gang !

<P>Well I'm about to embark on another high performance adventure
<BR>( it seems I can't leave well-enough alone - )
<BR>I'm about to order some parts for my car and want to get a feel of
about how much power I should be making with these mods

<P>Order List :

<P>K&amp;N Filter
<BR>HKS Cat back System ( dual tip )
<BR>Down pipe ( not sure which brand yet )
<BR>HKS Boost Controller
<BR>HKS SBOV<B></B>

<P>note my car is a "96 VR-4 with 41K miles

<P>Any estimates would be greatly appreciated :o)
<BR>especially what 1/4 mile times anyone has seen with these or similar
mods

<P>Irving
<BR>&nbsp;
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------F5347329521C148A94E88721--

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 00:06:10 -0500
From: "Marc Spinale" <mspinale@mediaone.net>
Subject: Team3S: Best kept secret?

After much research, I picked up a Borla cat back system a few months ago
for my 93 VR4 -- only $479. $486 at my door.  This was by far the best price
I found anywhere! The other guys, not even Borla via the net, could match
this deal.

It was purchased from Jeg's High Performance - 800-345-4545.

http://webstore.jegs.com/cgi-bin/Jegs1.storefront/1490032616/Home?JEG's

These guys usually deal with domestic stuff and all out Chevy/Ford racing
parts. They happen to be the biggest reseller of Borla and offer what
appears to be one of the best deals!

I've got to say, the staff at Stillen is great.  I wish the prices were a
bit more competitive.  Ryan, a staff member there, owns a 92 Stealth TT.
He's a great guy to talk to if you need parts for your TT.

- -Marc

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 00:06:08 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: K&N versus Stock.  tests, proof?

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> It is generally accepted that any filter that gives you greater air flow is not going to
> filter air as well. If you want a micron filter, and I'm sure someone could fabricate
> one, then expect severe flow restrictions with impecable filtration. Also be prepared to
> change it every day, and to have low, low performance. But, you'll have a shiny engine
> interior  :-)

I think it'd be a good idea to get some proof before everyone starts
thinking that any aftermarket filter is not going to filter as well as a
factory filter.  In the case of the million dollar earth movers, any
reason to think that the stock filters are excellent already???  I mean
the thing does cost a million dollars.  Also keep in mind that it sounds
like they were looking to save money, not improve performance.  Sounds
very likely to me that their filters are just plain better already.
Who's to say that the stock Mitsu filter actually filters any better?
It's very possible for a higher flowing filter to filter equal even
better, and what manufacturer out there doesn't pinch pennies and use
inferior parts at times?  I'd be willing to bet the factory Mitsu filter
sucks for airflow, AND filtration, and I'd rather see hard proof on this
than draw assumptions that an aftermarket filter is going to filter
worse.

Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 00:16:32 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tranny problem?

Try changing the trany fluid. My Eclise trany
shifted lousy with Valvoline gear oil but was ok
with Quaker State. The temp has alot to to do with
your situation, trany temo won't come up for some
time after the engine temp and gear oil is really
ornery when cold. All of the problems you describe
were the same in my Eclipse and my 96 VR4 is real
notchy in the morning.

Ron
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 00:21:00 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains

Ricardo Cousar wrote:
>
> > .  You don't have to generate horsepower to improve the performace of
> > your car. (Lose weight, reduce drag, etc.)
>
> This is all true, but we are talking about true hp gain, allot of people think that just
> by adding an air filter they are actually adding horses. My goal is get get past the
> myth and get back to reality.
>
> >   You talk about Dyno #'s, problem is they're not comparible to any
> > other cars that have any different mods.  The # of HP gained with a K&N on
> > an otherwise stock car is not going to be the same as one that has "The
> > Works"
>
> This is also true, but you have to have some reference point to start with. Remember
> changing  the air filter is the first mod most people do, and don't you think it would
> be misleading to compare a race car with a street car. It's like apples and oranges.

  A few other points I forgot to mention...  The only way I can see a
higher flowing filter not adding power is if there is something else in
the system restricting it to a point where it wouldn't matter if you ran
no filter.  If that was the case, wouldn't the restriction be the first
recommended mod?  It also sounds as though you're saying that a filter
wouldn't add ANY hp now, but in your first post you mentioned SEEING
dyno testing showing a 2hp gain.
  Also, say a mod helps the turbos spool quicker.  This wouldn't equate
to any more peak hp/torque, but wouldn't it be more hp/torque at a lower
rpm?  Then wouldn't it be correct to say it adds hp/torque?
  Until someone can show me, on a dyno, 2 nearly identicle VR4s, one
with an aftermarket filter and one without, and no performance gain,
then I'm going to keep going with my own common sense on this.
Regardless of proof, nothing anyone else has said yet even makes sense
to me as to why a higher flowing filter would not produce more power if
all other circumstances are equal.

Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 23:25:16 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: K&N versus Stock.  tests, proof?

I agree here on the "hard data" needed.
I have not read a K&N cleaning instruction sheet in quite some time.  The
instructions use to read:

The filter will actually filter better after it becomes a little dirty.
Meaning the holes in the filter are closed up by the dirt.

Those of you who like to keep their filters clean... Think about it. K&N
designed the filters to clean better after they are  somewhat dirty.

> Brad
>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Jason Barnhart
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 1999 11:06 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: RE: K&N versus Stock.  tests, proof?



wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> It is generally accepted that any filter that gives you greater air flow
is not going to
> filter air as well. If you want a micron filter, and I'm sure someone
could fabricate
> one, then expect severe flow restrictions with impecable filtration. Also
be prepared to
> change it every day, and to have low, low performance. But, you'll have a
shiny engine
> interior  :-)

I think it'd be a good idea to get some proof before everyone starts
thinking that any aftermarket filter is not going to filter as well as a
factory filter.  In the case of the million dollar earth movers, any
reason to think that the stock filters are excellent already???  I mean
the thing does cost a million dollars.  Also keep in mind that it sounds
like they were looking to save money, not improve performance.  Sounds
very likely to me that their filters are just plain better already.
Who's to say that the stock Mitsu filter actually filters any better?
It's very possible for a higher flowing filter to filter equal even
better, and what manufacturer out there doesn't pinch pennies and use
inferior parts at times?  I'd be willing to bet the factory Mitsu filter
sucks for airflow, AND filtration, and I'd rather see hard proof on this
than draw assumptions that an aftermarket filter is going to filter
worse.

Jason
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 23:49:28 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Team3S: in search for a 93+ Turbo shortblock

Hey everyone,   I am needing a good core 93+ twin turbo engine.  Does anyone
have any friends at a mitsu dealer that can set me up with a warranty block,
or such?

Thanks,

> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 07:42:47 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Estimated HorsePower ?

Irving & Ana Jimenez wrote:
>
> Hey Gang !
>
> Well I'm about to embark on another high performance adventure
> ( it seems I can't leave well-enough alone - )
> I'm about to order some parts for my car and want to get a feel of
> about how much power I should be making with these mods
>
> Order List :
>
> K&N Filter
> HKS Cat back System ( dual tip )
> Down pipe ( not sure which brand yet )
> HKS Boost Controller
> HKS SBOV
>
> note my car is a "96 VR-4 with 41K miles
>
> Any estimates would be greatly appreciated :o)
> especially what 1/4 mile times anyone has seen with these or similar
> mods
>
> Irving

Irving,
Your car will make approx. 400 SAE HP with those mods.  At normal boost
levels (1.00 bar or so), the expensive exhaust system will give you
little to no horsepower, just steal a little torque from the low end
where you drive most often and move the curve up to the high end where
your injectors will be maxed out.  Take a look at my web page for more
info.  Roger Gerl's dyno page is also almost ready and will have a more
in-depth explanation.
In my opinion, the money you plan to spend on the exhaust system and
would be better spent on fuel delivery upgrades.  Good luck!!

-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 22:56:50 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Re: TSB's...

All,

A while back Thomas was asking me about TSB's.  He just
sent me this link which lists them all.  Could somebody please
answer his question for me?  I'm clueless.  I'll forward the
answer back to him.

- --Errin

>

Hey Errin remember how I mentioned to u before about those TSB's?
Here they are.  My question is can we take our cars to the dealerships
& they'll fix the problems for free?  I want to get my horn fixed cuz the
horn button  falls out & doesn't work.  Well thanks if you can help me
out.  C-ya.
T.   [Thomas Broadbent]


http://www.alldata.com/consumer/TSB/39/95392116.html



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 00:11:32 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: K&N versus Stock.  tests, proof?

Funyn part is I waited 20k miles to clean mine, it was BARELY dirty and took
a few drops to clean....Course it came with a 16oz container of cleaner,
figure I can go about 3 million miles, before I lose the bottle....

- -Bill/K&N the only after market part your mom can install....Besides the
Lame_ass "No Fear" stickers everyone has now...


>I have not read a K&N cleaning instruction sheet in quite some time.  The
>instructions use to read:
>
>The filter will actually filter better after it becomes a little dirty.
>Meaning the holes in the filter are closed up by the dirt.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 00:13:52 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Best kept secret?

That's where I got mine, no one else was close, I had to know the part #
though because they didn't have a clue.

Believe the guys from Nexus sent me there when they didn't have it...

- -Bill



>After much research, I picked up a Borla cat back system a few months ago
>for my 93 VR4 -- only $479. $486 at my door.  This was by far the best
price

>It was purchased from Jeg's High Performance - 800-345-4545.
>
>http://webstore.jegs.com/cgi-bin/Jegs1.storefront/1490032616/Home?JEG's
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 01:27:29 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: SS-ARC

Hi List..

  Does anyone know what's a SS-ARC?  Someone is trying to sell me one,
claims it replaces the VPC or a ECU tune.  Does anyone have one of
these products? or can tell me anything about it??  Thanx.

George
3S#0139
'92 Pearl White Dodge Stealth RT TT
K&N; Trust off-road exhaust (turbo back); Forged rods and pistons;
13Gs; DSBC; AFC; HKS pump; Vitek wires; Momo Competiton steering
wheel; C's short shift; Autopower roll bar; Simpson 5-pt belt; Brembo
kit.. etc..
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 10:44:20 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains

Dave,

The G60 guys I know pretty well here in Europe swear on the K&N and JT filters.
Properly oiled they never had any problem but I must admit that we have less
dust here in mid-Europe than elsewhere.

Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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End of Team3S Digest V1 #92
***************************

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