--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #91
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Wednesday,
February 3 1999 Volume 01 : Number
091
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 02:00:02 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods and True gains
Ricardo Cousar wrote:
>
> I am
writing this post because allot of us are being mislead by claims
> from
parts manufactures. K&N claims that by adding their product your
> car
will get about 15 extra hp.. This is wrong, the true HP gain from a
>
K&N filter is 2 hp. You might ask how do I know this, I have seen
2
> cars dyno'd. The first car was turbo charged and the other was
non
> turbo.. The gain was the same. The other misconception is that
spark
> plug wires give you more hp. This is wrong plug wires give 0 hp
all they
> do is make sure you are getting the proper spark. The
same goes for
> allot of other mobs but I am trying to keep it
short.
> I know this issue will be debated and I welcome
it.
Ricardo,
I myself have done a similar modification. I
have a 94 VR4 with 89k
miles. The only mod I've done is a Weapon-R
filter. I still have the
original plugs and wires, meaning they have
NEVER been changed. I've
had 2 opportunities to run my car. My
best time to date was
13.36@102.54. I
feel confident I could have run 13.2 or better as I
spun excessively off the
line. It was roughly 70 degrees and I was
running pump gas. I
consider my Weapon-R to be inferior to K&N filters,
and I beleive those
numbers are basically unheard of for little to no
modifications on a VR4,
especially if the mod was 2hp or less. I also
doubt I'd be able to feel
a 2hp difference like I feel this mod,
considering also that a slight
variation in temp, altitude, and/or
humidity could count for 2hp or
more. Keep in mind that it's very
possible to gain 15hp without ever
gaining any PEAK hp. If a given car
is hitting 350hp at 4k rpms and
400hp at 7k rpms, it could gain up to
50hp at 4k rpms without ever breaking
400hp peak.
My car also suffers from slight stumbles in acceleration
at times and
I'm most certain that replacing my plugs and wires will fix this
and
will further increase it's performance.
Being skeptical isn't a
bad thing, and it's quite noble to try to
inform others. On the other
hand, I think you may be trying too hard to
find fault in advertising, and
false advertising is illegal. That's not
to say it doesn't happen, but
it shouldn't be a regular occurance or go
on for extended periods of
time. Just don't take their statements as
anything other than what they
say, that's what they're counting on.
Also don't try too hard to find fault
in statements. A person once told
me that you'll see what you expect to
see. If you expect to see false
claims, you may find fault in those
claims too easily, or when there
isn't truely any fault there.
I
think the K&N is probably the best filter on the market, most of
the
other nice ones are actually made by K&N. This would be
supported by
looking at the mods on the fastest cars, most run K&N.
If I could do it
again, I'd buy a K&N rather than falling for misleading,
presumptuous
info with not data to back it up. I'm happy with my cars
performance,
but I like to buy only the best if money isn't an options.
Being more
informed now, I could have the superior K&N (my opinion only)
for $4
more than what I paid for my Weapon-R. If anyone
reading this is
looking for an aftermarket filter, they can speak with Mike
at Altered
Atmosphere Motorsports to get in on a group discount, the details
can be
found at www.3000gt.com
Jason
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 09:48:30 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Detonation (stock turbos)
Errin,
One of the list members
living in the UK just imported a japanese GTO but it is
not so easy to see
the stamped number on the front one. When he starts
installing his mods it's
maybe worth looking at the housings.
> In either case, TD04 should be
on the housing, since a 13G still utilizes
> a TD04 housing. I think
you know this.
Yes, I do. The UK and EU cars both have the 13G turbos,
but as mentioned we are
not sure about the GTOs as this is not
verified.
> I don't know anyone in Japan with a GTO.
I have an
address but unfortunately the guy is not speaken well English and my
Japanese
ends at "Sushi" :)
Maybe Behrooz will then be able to get the number from
his car.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 05:27:03 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Timing belt slippage
Thanks for the replies on the
subject. I can't agree that a loose timing
belt is normal. The
idea that Mitsubishi would design a motor that allows
the cams and crank to
get even a half-tooth out of sync is hard to believe.
Plus, as many times as
I've had my timing cover off over the last 5 years,
I've never seen any
slack.
Paul Horschel's response makes the most sense because there was an
action to
take to correct the problem, i.e., rotating the front cam
counterclockwise
and the crank clockwise. This doesn't take slack out
as he said -- it
actually CREATES slack until the tensioner pulley is pushed
against it. But
with his technique, no additional slack can be produced
later because it's
already taken up by the tensioner pulley.
In my
case, we checked the belt tightness all around after installation.
It
was tight everywhere. There's something else going on here.
For example,
the tensioner pulley itself runs on bearings. Maybe the
bearings are shot,
making the pulley vibrate enough that the center bolt is
backing out. I
also noticed that the little dowel pin that aligns the
crank sprocket with
the crank pulley is loose. There's a lot of play in
it. That could cause
some unwanted vibration.
Any other
ideas? This time, I'm replacing the tensioner pulley and center
bolt as
well as the crank sprocket, dowel and crank bolt. I'm going to
use
Paul's technique for getting the last bit of slack out and I'm
putting
Loctite on the center bolt. That better hold it.
Oh, and
one last thing. I took a closer look at our crank pulley the other
day
and found a very small circle of rubber about 1/3 of the way in towards
the
center. Another reason not to buy Unorthodox.
- -Bob
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 12:37:10 -0000
From: "Simon Jones" <simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject:
Re Team3S: Detonation (stock turbos)
Hi,
I live in England and
have a Japanese imported GTO. As Roger mentioned,
it's not easy to see
the housing without removing it, but I've driven a U.K.
spec. 3000GT (1995)
and compared with my GTO (1994), mine definitely felt
more powerful (before
mods), both in acceleration and turbo spool up time.
Of course, this may be
because the U.K. one was six speed and mine five.
I'll be gutting the
cats in the summer, so if no-one knows by then I'll be
able to find
out.
Simon Jones.
'94 GTO
simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
http://www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
>
>One
of the list members living in the UK just imported a japanese GTO but
it
is
>not so easy to see the stamped number on the front one. When he
starts
>installing his mods it's maybe worth looking at the
housings.
>
>Yes, I do. The UK and EU cars both have the 13G turbos,
but as mentioned we
are
>not sure about the GTOs as this is not
verified.
>
>> I don't know anyone in Japan with a
GTO.
>
>I have an address but unfortunately the guy is not speaken
well English and
my
>Japanese ends at "Sushi" :)
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 07:35:38 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Re Team3S:
Detonation (stock turbos)
The number stamped on the compressor housing is
visible on both the front
and rear turbos without getting into a big
disassembly project. Although it
may look like a daunting task, it
isn't so bad. The rear one is viewable by
removing plumbing until you
can get a good enough view. You can do the same
on the front. I
found the rear bothersome than the front turbo. I removed
the upper i/c
hoses from the Y pipe inlet and was able to get a reasonable
view of the
numbers stamped on the housing. A mirror and flashlight is also
useful
and may well mean no disassembly at
all.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hi,
>
> I live in England and have a
Japanese imported GTO. As Roger mentioned,
> it's not easy to see
the housing without removing it, but I've
> driven a U.K.
> spec.
3000GT (1995) and compared with my GTO (1994), mine definitely felt
> more
powerful (before mods), both in acceleration and turbo spool up time.
> Of
course, this may be because the U.K. one was six speed and mine
five.
>
> I'll be gutting the cats in the summer, so if no-one knows
by then I'll be
> able to find out.
>
> Simon Jones.
>
'94 GTO
> simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
>
http://www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 09:36:18 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mods and
True gains
Performance wise, IMHO the HKS Mega Flow is the 1st choice and
is almost as
good as direct feed. To say better then the K & N... both
are excellent. The
main difference is the HKS needs more filter changing and
flows better for any
serious performance. The K & N's filter will last
longer, can be reused and
will clean the air a bit better then the HKS. This
benefit is the give back on
the performance. Neither, of these filters are as
capable of maintaining the
air standard of the stock factory air filter. Over
the long haul, in using
either the extra wear will be evident from a less
filtered air flow. Better is
the choice of the user depending on the specific
use.
Just my 2hp
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 2/2/99 11:01:44 PM
Pacific Standard Time, phnxgld@erols.com
writes:
<<
I think the K&N is probably the best filter on the market, most of
the
other nice ones are actually made by K&N. This would be
supported by
looking at the mods on the fastest cars, most run
K&N. If I could do it
again, I'd buy a K&N rather than
falling for misleading, presumptuous
info with not data to back it
up. I'm happy with my cars performance,
but I like to buy only
the best if money isn't an options. Being more
informed now, I
could have the superior K&N (my opinion only) for $4
more than what
I paid for my Weapon-R. >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 17:50:48 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Water Injection, good news !
Horsepower freaks !
After the
dyno session (the page is not fully done yet) we started to think
about how
to get rid of the timing retard that starts at more boost than
1.00bars. The
main thing is that the stock fuel system runs out of fuel and with
the lower
octane fuel detonation occurs very early. So the primary thing is to
increase
pump and injectors and a device that controls them.
Today I sat together
with the Supra guy and we came back to the water-injection
stuff. I then had
the idea to get the Swiss address on the Aquamist homepage and
called them
up. After more than 1 hour on the phone I must admit that I do not
understand
a little about about engines and that this guy is the most educated
and most
experienced motorhead I ever spoke to ! To make it short here the
conclusion
on water injection :
They offer an Aquamist system with the bigger
water/alcohol pump for cars that
have more than 360 DIN hp (410 SAE). The
european cars do have a second water
reservoir in the front bumper for the
headlight washers and it can be used for
the system easily. But they also
have other reservoirs that can be placed
elsewhere. The whole system runs for
about $760. Fully installed with back to
back AWD dyno and tune in the cost
for everything is around $1150.
Well what gives it ? This system provides
a knock security as when you run ...
please take a seat ... fuel with 160
octane rating !!! No typo, 160 octane with
93 octane fuel. This allows us to
crank up boost over the 1.25 bar zone with
stock turbos and intercooler
without any danger of knock or detonation. As we
know now that our engines
obviously start knocking after 1.00 bars (!!) the
system will kick in just
before this boost level to provide the best
performance. This gives you the
best results of use as there's just no need for
it below that boost and saves
money on the alcohol/water mixture. Fully engaged
the system flows about
0.125 liter per minute. With a 2 liter tank this means 16
minutes running on
boosts way over 1.00bars.
The only drawback is that we have to change the
oil more often, but the most of
us do this every 5000 or less anyway. This is
due to particles going into the
oil circulation that are not wanted. But this
is much better compared to any
deposits elsewhere. Also a prerequisite is a
fuel system that does not max out
after 1.00bars. Therefore upgrading the
fuel system is a must too. The Supra guy
is lucky with the big injectors and
fuel pump the car already has stock :(
I'll be picking up the big
injectors when I'm in the States and they'll find
their way into the car by
the end of March. After this I'll probably do the
water-injection as it seems
the best and most secure way to prevent any
detonation. Of course the stock
turbos are not able to hold boost in the higher
range but they are still good
for more than 1.25 bars what will result in at
least 460 DIN hp (516 SAE,
measured on the dyno last year... including heavy
knock)
I'll get
written information soon as well as I'll visit the shop with the
cars
(Ferrari, Porsche, M3 with 560hp, Callaway Corvette TwinTurbo with
1000hp, gulp)
next week and I hope to be able to place them on my web site
for your
information.
Happy boosting,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:54:25 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Transfer cases
I know this has been brought up before, but i dont
know where to go to see
the discussions.
I'm wondering about the
different versions of transfer cases for the 1st
gen cars. These are my
questions....
1. Will a transfer case that was installed as part of a
warranty upgraded
5-speed, fit an original equip. 5-speed?
2. Is there
any way, short of removal, to tell which spline size a x-fer
case has? And,
why are there 2 sizes?
3. Will a x-fer case that was installed under the
recall fit a warranty
upgrade 5-speed?
I'm trying to determine
weather or not a x-fer case that was replaced as
part of the recall will fit
the warranty upgrade transmission, and if a
x-fer case that was part of a
warranty upgrade transmission will fit an
original trans. Or will i have to
remove both of them to find out? Thanks
for any help you can
offer....
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:04:38 -0700
From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing belt slippage
Bob,
> Paul Horschel's
response makes the most sense because there was
> an action to
>
take to correct the problem, i.e., rotating the front cam
counterclockwise
> and the crank clockwise. This doesn't take slack
out as he said -- it
> actually CREATES slack until the tensioner pulley
is pushed
> against it. But
> with his technique, no
additional slack can be produced later because it's
> already taken up by
the tensioner pulley.
Doing this will take up any additional slack after
you adjust the cam pulley
to compensate for it. However, I found out
that the cam spring strength is
stronger than the tensioner spring. I
have found that when my belt is loose
the tensioner is pushed in beyond the
point where you can't insert the pin
in anymore. In this case the belt
is still loose sometimes but, the
difference in slack was very
noticeable. I noticed some free play in the
belt but, not more than
3/8" side to side movement when checking between the
water pump pulley and
the either inner camshaft pulley. The first time I
put on the belt I
had 1" to 1 1/2" of play.
> In my case, we checked the belt tightness
all around after
> installation. It
> was tight
everywhere. There's something else going on here. For
example,
> the tensioner pulley itself runs on bearings. Maybe the
bearings
> are shot,
> making the pulley vibrate enough that the
center bolt is backing out. I
> also noticed that the little dowel
pin that aligns the crank sprocket with
> the crank pulley is loose.
There's a lot of play in it. That could cause
> some unwanted
vibration.
Before you put everything back together hit the key and turn
the engine over
a few cranks and let it sit for about 30 min and then check
for slack in the
belt. You might want to do this a couple of times to
be sure.
> Any other ideas? This time, I'm replacing the
tensioner pulley and center
> bolt as well as the crank sprocket, dowel
and crank bolt. I'm
> going to use
> Paul's technique for
getting the last bit of slack out and I'm putting
> Loctite on the center
bolt. That better hold it.
I didn't seem to have any problems with
the cam tensioner bolt coming loose.
Loctite is a good idea to be sure it
won't. I didn't have any slack in the
crankshaft pulley
either.
BTW-If you don't have the proper tool to keep the crankshaft from
spinning
while you remove the bolt you can put a breaker bar with a socket on
the nut
and back it up against the A-arm(control arm) and hit the key.
This could
be very dangerous. Do it at your own risk.
Good
Luck,
- -Paul Horschel
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 10:15:03 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transfer cases
Hi Wayne,
> 1. Will a transfer
case that was installed as part of a warranty upgraded
> 5-speed, fit an
original equip. 5-speed?
Not necessarily. No doubt, dealers have
replaced trannys without
transfer cases and vice versa, meaning that those
cars still have the
small splines. Not always did/will they replace a
tranny and a transfer
case together with the larger splined units. It
is also possible that
they replaced the pair with the smaller splined
units.
>
> 2. Is there any way, short of removal, to tell which
spline size a x-fer
> case has? And, why are there 2 sizes?
Perhaps
you can give your VIN to the local dealer/service manager and
they can tell
you if they upgraded your car to the larger splined tranny
& transfer
case.
>
> 3. Will a x-fer case that was installed under
the recall fit a warranty
> upgrade 5-speed?
See #1
answer.
>
> I'm trying to determine weather or not a x-fer case
that was replaced as
> part of the recall will fit the warranty upgrade
transmission, and if a
> x-fer case that was part of a warranty upgrade
transmission will fit an
> original trans. Or will i have to remove both
of them to find out?
Removing the transfer case and counting the teeth is
the surest way to
know. The "small" spline has ~18 teeth and the
upgraded "larger" spline
has ~24 (someone can correct actual
numbers).
Good luck,
Ken
- --
Ken Middaugh
General
Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 19:44:48 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods and True gains
> I myself have done a similar
modification. I have a 94 VR4 with 89k
> miles. The only mod
I've done is a Weapon-R filter. I still have the
> original plugs
and wires, meaning they have NEVER been changed.
Therefore you've not
done the 60k service ! You're currently in a big danger to
kill something in
your engine :(
> I've had 2 opportunities to run my car. My best
time to date was
> 13.36@102.54. I
feel confident I could have run 13.2 or better as I
> spun excessively off
the line.
No flame broh, but with only the filter you run 13.36 without
cranking up boost
??. The speed seems somewhat low for this ET ... so you had
a very good time
then ;-)
> I consider my Weapon-R to be inferior
to K&N filters,
> and I beleive those numbers are basically unheard of
for little to no
> modifications on a VR4, especially if the mod was 2hp
or less.
In fact, adding a better free-flow filter will not give you any
horses for sure.
It "can" but obviously it allows the car to breath better
and spool up quicker.
This results in beter ETs but this doesn't show you
more power !
> Keep in mind that it's very possible to gain 15hp
without ever gaining
> any PEAK hp. If a given car is hitting 350hp
at 4k rpms and 400hp at 7k
> rpms, it could gain up to 50hp at 4k rpms
without ever breaking 400hp peak.
As an example at 4650rpm Jims car had
34hp SAE less than mine will mine peaked
about 6 hp less at the top
then.
> My car also suffers from slight stumbles in
acceleration at times and
> I'm most certain that replacing my plugs and
wires will fix this and
> will further increase it's
performance.
The wires can help, especially when regapping the plugs and
when more energy is
required. If you are running your care bone stock and
change the wires nothing
will happen :)
Speaking of true gains in
horsepower and torque only a dyno sheet can tell the
truth. Speaking of
performance the ETs and trap speed tell the story. But then
also wind, the
driver and the tranny play an important rule. Sitting on a dyno
and running 5
different filters after each other could also give wrong results
due to
heating the car up more and more with each run. We had 3 cars with
different
setups on the dyno (all with K&N FIPK) so therefore this variable is
out
of the game.
Finally, adding a filter, exhaust, dp, removing the cat,
nothing helps if you
are not cranking up boost enough ! And if you do this,
your fuel system will be
at its end before you'll see any gain of the
exhaust. Stay tuned for our
compiled
dyno results
!
Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 14:00:51 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Dyno Results
Roger when can we expect to see these results?
And will you be kind enough
to list the mods each one of you have done so we
can compare our current
setups?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 13:03:30 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire giants collide
Found this on ABC's website. Goodyear
and Sumitomo are merging.
http://abcnews.go.com/sections/business/DailyNews/goodyear990203.html
-
--
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 19:47:39
From: MARK CREEKMORE <mcreekmore@usa.net>
Subject: Re:
[Team3S: Tire giants collide]
That's very interesting,
I have Sumitomo HTRZ II tires on my 92 TT and I think that they are great. They
are very similar to the Dunlop SP9000 but cost a lot less. Every time I tell
someone what kind of tires I have they have never heard of Sumitomo. Maybe this
will help them get more recognition.
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
wrote:
> Found this on ABC's website. Goodyear and Sumitomo are
merging.
>
> http://abcnews.go.com/sections/business/DailyNews/goodyear990203.html
>
> --
> -Jeff Crabtree
> '91 Stealth
R/T
Turbo(#499)
>
'93 Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
>
St. Louis, MO
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Mark
Black
'92 R/T, K&N Filter, HKS dual tip exaust, Alamo Downpipe, Random Tech. Cat.,
HKS EVC IV, Stillen Sport Rotor Kit (disks, pads, lines, fluid), Fittipaldi
Tubolare 18" Rims, Sumitomo HTRZ II 245/45ZR18 Tires, Strut tower hood
scoop.
____________________________________________________________________
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free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 14:13:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Racing Helmets
Hi guys...don't post much but was wondering how do you
come to
determine if a helmet is within specs for drag racing etc...
The
reason I am asking is that there is a helmet by Aral that
is
Snell-approved and approved by a 2nd agency. the problem is that
it
is a motorcycle helmet and I can get it for around $186 plus tax.
Anyhow, is there a definite requirement as to what agency must approve
of
the helmet before it can be used for auto racing and such...I saw
the one
that Ed Fein had but don't remember if it was auto-helmet
or
cycle-helmet.
==
-Frank-
"JEEPers"
www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045
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Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 17:18:19 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Racing
Helmets
There is no real big difference except maybe the mouth style and
venting but
as long as it is snel 90 or 95 it should be approved. Look inside
or on the
back for the snel sticker
Xannieria
3SI #130
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:00:45 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods and True gains
> . You don't have to generate
horsepower to improve the performace of
> your car. (Lose weight, reduce
drag, etc.)
This is all true, but we are talking about true hp gain,
allot of people think that just
by adding an air filter they are actually
adding horses. My goal is get get past the
myth and get back to
reality.
> You talk about Dyno #'s, problem is they're not
comparible to any
> other cars that have any different mods. The #
of HP gained with a K&N on
> an otherwise stock car is not going to be
the same as one that has "The
> Works"
This is also true, but you
have to have some reference point to start with. Remember
changing the
air filter is the first mod most people do, and don't you think it would
be
misleading to compare a race car with a street car. It's like apples and
oranges.
> If a tuneup can "Create" or at least "regain"
horsepower, most people
> who add new plug wires will see an improvement,
not over stock, but over
> current condition.
Well as far a plug
wires are concerned, a well tune car will always run better. As,
far
as, Magnecor I think they are overpriced and I question the need to run
wires like that.
I believe if you get a decent set of wires they will
do the same. Not stock wires,
mind you but good quality wires. I think the
Magnicor wires are excessive. There comes a
point when overkill sets
in.
Just to some this up, I am not saying, not to buy these
products, but I am saying
people should learn about mods before they
buy. I just want people to be fully informed
about about what they are
buying, so they don't waste money on things they don't need or
don't need
yet.. Example people who buy bigger injectors and have stock turbos and
no
boost controller.
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 16:08:17 -0800
From: "Pat Maston" <PAM@gty.ci.henderson.nv.us>
Subject:
Re: RE: Team3S: Timing belt slippage
Original
message:
>snip>
>>> "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net> 2/3/99
10:04:38 AM >>>
BTW-If you don't have the proper tool to keep the
crankshaft from spinning
while you remove the bolt you can put a breaker bar
with a socket on the nut
and back it up against the A-arm(control arm) and
hit the key. This could
be very dangerous. Do it at your own
risk.
Good Luck,
- -Paul Horschel
>end snip>
I
strongly advise not to do this. These are interference engines (at least
my 91 TT is). If you turn over the crankshaft with the timing belt
removed, there is a chance that the piston(s) could hit an open valve(s),
causing severe, expensive damage to your engine. The way the Mitsu
mechanic here removes the pulley bolt is with a very high torque air impact
wrench. This removes the bolt without turning the engine over. The
special crankshaft tool is no longer available, as far as I know (not from
Mitsu, Snapon, or Mack).
Patrick
91 VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 20:48:43 -0700
From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing belt slippage
This is just a way to take the bolt out
of the crankshaft pulley. The
timing belt is still on the engine when
you do this. I have done this on a
few different makes of cars with no
problems. Just be sure the belt is
still on there before you do
this. A good impact wrench would be the best
way to do it.
- -Paul
Horschel
> BTW-If you don't have the proper tool to keep the
crankshaft from spinning
> while you remove the bolt you can put a breaker
bar with a socket
> on the nut
> and back it up against the
A-arm(control arm) and hit the key. This could
> be very
dangerous. Do it at your own risk.
> I strongly advise not to do
this. These are interference engines
> (at least my 91 TT is).
If you turn over the crankshaft with the
> timing belt removed, there is a
chance that the piston(s) could
> hit an open valve(s), causing severe,
expensive damage to your
> engine. The way the Mitsu mechanic here
removes the pulley bolt
> is with a very high torque air impact
wrench. This removes the
> bolt without turning the engine
over. The special crankshaft
> tool is no longer available, as far
as I know (not from Mitsu,
> Snapon, or Mack).
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 23:07:59 -0500
From: Joseph Pampena <u1016118@warwick.net>
Subject:
Team3S: 92 Stealth RT TT for sale
The subject says it. I am selling
my 92 Stealth RT TT. The car has approx-115k on it (I
don't have it
here to check), it is red with charcoal leather, new timing
belts, ac just
redone, new xfer case and output shaft. Car
runs VERY STRONG, it does need MINOR
cosmetics (a couple of parking lot
dings and the hood is faded). I am asking $8500 or
best, I am
willing to negotiate, I have to move back to Florida and cannot take all
four
of my cars with me :(. If anyone is interested, the car is
in New York. You can email me
or call (914)344-5427.
Thanx.
Joe
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Feb 1999 01:53:40 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods and True gains
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> Performance
wise, IMHO the HKS Mega Flow is the 1st choice and is almost as
> good as
direct feed. To say better then the K & N... both are excellent. The
>
main difference is the HKS needs more filter changing and flows better for
any
> serious performance. The K & N's filter will last longer, can be
reused and
> will clean the air a bit better then the HKS. This benefit is
the give back on
> the performance. Neither, of these filters are as
capable of maintaining the
> air standard of the stock factory air filter.
Over the long haul, in using
> either the extra wear will be evident from
a less filtered air flow. Better is
> the choice of the user depending on
the specific use.
> Just my 2hp
> Arty 91 VR-4
I hope
noone took any of my comments as more than my own simple
opinion, and I agree
100% that 'best' is based solely on one's opinion.
The HKS dual mega flow (I
think) is the only other one I would have
mentioned, but I no virtually
nothing about the single or dual mega
flows and therefore didn't even want to
offer an opinion on them. Going
only on what I've heard, the HKS are
pricy at best, and I've even heard
rumors that dyno testing showed little to
no gain, or even worse
performance over stock with the mega flow.
Sounds weird, but again, I
have no first hand knowledge of the above.
With no data to actually
back it up, I was also under the impression that the
K&N (and possibly
others) actually filter better. Has anyone tested
this?
What are your thoughts on the other statements? I just
can't see how
a more free flowing intake would not add power (peak or not)
unless
something else in the system was restricting flow to a point where
it
made no difference. All other things equal, more air
(specifically
oxygen) equals a more powerfull explosion, and hence more
power, no? As
far as plugs and wires are concerned, better spark should
equate to a
performance increase, whether noticable or not. Even with
no mods
beyond plugs and/or wires, less voltage drop would mean a bigger
spark
and more thorough explosion, which could do nothing more than
improve
the performance as far as I can tell. It might even be possible
to
increase the gap (minute or not) with less voltage drop. Keep in
mind,
I'm not saying the performance gain would be noticable, or
even
measurable. The difference could be ridiculously negligable, but
more
voltage would be an improvement, however slight it may
be.
Jason
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------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 04 Feb 1999 02:15:35 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Mods and True gains
"R.G." wrote:
> Therefore you've
not done the 60k service ! You're currently in a big danger to
> kill
something in your engine :(
No need to warn me, I kick myself in
the arse everyday. The car's
basically sitting now and money wasn't
that great until now. I'll be
picking up Accel wires and NGK plugs this
weekend if all goes well. I
won't even mention the fact that it's the
original timing belt. Doh,
guess I just did :P
> No
flame broh, but with only the filter you run 13.36 without cranking up
boost
> ??. The speed seems somewhat low for this ET ... so you had a very
good time
> then ;-)
I haven't yet gotten a boost
controller, don't even have an
aftermarket boost gauge yet. The filter
is truely the only mod that's
been done. I'm fighting my new (first)
scanner, and Nexus still hasn't
posted my 13.60@101 run after at least 2
months since I first emailed
them, never even got a
response............. It costs WAY too much to
scan at Kinko's, and I
don't have a fax. There's no telling when this
will be put on the list,
but Mike Mahaffey was there that day.
There were a few things
in my favor as far as I'm concerned. It was
near sea level, cool, but
not cold. As I was fairly certain it'd be my
last run for some time, I
decided to dump the clutch when I launched. I
don't plan on making this
a habbit, but I wanted to see what it could
do. My tires were nearly
bald on top of the fact that I pulled through
the water (no choice) and
didn't heat the tires up, I think it allowed
me to spin enough so that I
didn't bog. I only had 5 runs that day, and
I did try heating the tires
up once. I nearly had a heart attack when I
dumped the clutch at 6k,
the wheels didn't spin, and the clutch didn't
slip. I thought for sure
I'd break the hell outta something, and even
though it bogged badly, I ran
13.39 that run. On my fastest run, I spun
WAY too much, so I have
littled doubt that I COULD have run 13.2 or
better, whether I ever do it or
not. The stumbles I spoke of were also
fealt in most runs, don't recall
this particular run, probably spinning
too much to notice.
> The
wires can help, especially when regapping the plugs and when more energy
is
> required. If you are running your care bone stock and change the
wires nothing
> will happen :)
See my response to Arty's
message. I wouldn't say nothing, maybe
virtually nothing. That's
only my opinion of course, and I try to be
very literal.
Hurry
up with the dyno results already :P
Jason
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End
of Team3S Digest V1 #91
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