--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #90
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
February 2 1999 Volume 01 : Number
090
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 00:44:12 +0000
From: "J. Stephen Gula" <altoloco@widomaker.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Pads, rotors, exhaust, boredom
> I like the Stillen
metal matrix pads. They are very clean and the car stops
> a lot better
than
> the stock pads.
I'll keep that in mind when i get prices on
the Carbon Fibre pads (i
have a thing for Carbon fibre..)
> I think
the stock clutch is the best way to go. We don't make that much
> power to
need the ACT2600 or
> similar. The stock is a good compromise.
My
thought's exactly. _BUT_ the questions is how _much_ is the stock
clutch
compared to an aftermarket clutch and what kind of/if any
difference is there
in weight?
> before replacing them. The power slot rotors also look
nice, I may put them
> on the eclipse.
I've heard the slotted ones
cause more wear'n'tear than crossdrilled but
personally, i don't think the
slotted look as good.
> I think the weight and the complexity of the
active exhaust componets make
> this a less apealing
solution.
Agreed. Although it would be a cheap way to go, I'm not
planning on
using my next exhaust as a temp (like Rich L.) cause (a) I don't
have
open access to a VR-4 exhaust and (b) i'd rather have a muffler
shop
price me and give me what _I_ want.
> I would recommend the
60 mm diameter HKS VR4 first and then the Borla as my
> second
choice.
The HKS I like only cause of the exhaust tips (I'm for the big
but
skinny <when comparing outer diameter to inner diameter of the
tip
itself> unlike the ones on Parham's Sabetazm's car. His look great,
but
they remind me of the Neons/Honda's around here.. <sorry
Parham>)
> I have not done the exhaust upgrade as I was waiting on
headers from Brian
> at GT Alley, but we
> all know that
story.
To Brian : What comes around goes around. I can only hope
your
punishment is severe.
> I'm very surprised that the stock is
worn out. I would ask your dealer to
> take a look at it. The SS system
should out last the car.
Elaborate on "SS."
Thanks for all the
insight.
- --Steve "Loco3KGT" Gula
sidenote : I'm working on
watercooling my CPU (science fair) and then
using a peltier cooler.. I'm
expecting overclocking my AMD K6-2 300 to
450 w/o any probs. And my mainboard
should be able to get me to 550 _if_
i can cool the entire case and not just
the CPU. Any suggestions on how
to cool the entire case? Fans are _not_ an
option, i've exhausted that
idea (4 current 80mm fans with 1 more still to go
in if I get bored).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 11:10:54 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Brake Pads, rotors, exhaust, boredom
> The HKS I like only cause of
the exhaust tips (I'm for the big but
> skinny <when comparing outer
diameter to inner diameter of the tip
> itself> unlike the ones on
Parham's Sabetazm's car. His look great, but
> they remind me of the
Neons/Honda's around here.. <sorry Parham>)
Go to discount auto parts,
and find the resonated dual chrome tips that
are in boxes. The chrome ends
look very similar, and to the uninitiated,
just like stock, so you have the
low key effect. not only that, but as
on my R/T, I had to cut the back bumper
notch out, and because i didn't
paint the inner "lip" of the cutout, the dual
tips were the only ones
that filled that notch up.
Matt
3/Si
#311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 19:19:58 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: DIN PS -> SAE HP
Does anyone know how to convert DIN PS to SAE
HP? Is there a web page
with such information?
Thanx.
-Jim
P.S.- The dyno results were VERY, VERY
interesting. We will publish to
the web and post a summary
soon.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 10:54:19 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Brake Pads, rotors, exhaust, boredom
- -----Original
Message-----
From: J. Stephen Gula [mailto:altoloco@widomaker.com]
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Pads, rotors, exhaust, boredom
_BUT_ the questions
is how _much_ is the stock
clutch compared to an aftermarket clutch and what
kind of/if any
difference is there in weight?
- -----End of Original
Message-----
Ok, as for the stock clutch, I just replaced mine
and went through that
decision process, so here's the numbers I got (my
dealer here doesn't give a
3SI discount)
Stock clutch:
Disc
$70
Pressure Plate $70
t/o bearing
$20
total.............$160
Centerforce DF
$429
(@nexus)
Labor to install new clutch:
$550 (aprox. at
dealer)
The general consensus among the lists (Team3S, starnet, dragnet)
seemed to
be that if you're staying under 250HP, then you really don't need
anything
more than the stock clutch, and if you get an aftermarket one, you'd
be
making it more "binary" and thus more of a pain in the a#$ to drive
normally
(when you don't want to give your passenger - or God forbid a date:)
-
whiplash. Hehe, hey baby, check this out- I can go from 0 to whiplash
in
1.7ms! Wait! You can't get out now- we haven't even gotten to
the
restaurant yet!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
-
------
----------
"Without somehow destroying me in the process, how
could
God reveal Himself in a way that would leave no room
for
doubt? If there were no room for doubt, there
would be
no room for
me."
--Frederick Buechner
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
-
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Stephen Gula [mailto:altoloco@widomaker.com]
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Pads, rotors, exhaust, boredom
sidenote : I'm working
on watercooling my CPU (science fair) and then
using a peltier cooler.. I'm
expecting overclocking my AMD K6-2 300 to
450 w/o any probs. And my mainboard
should be able to get me to 550 _if_
i can cool the entire case and not just
the CPU. Any suggestions on how
to cool the entire case? Fans are _not_ an
option, i've exhausted that
idea (4 current 80mm fans with 1 more still to go
in if I get bored).
- -----End of Original Message-----
And on the
side note: You're overclocking your CPU! Don't you know
that
overclocking is the invention of SATAN? Bad! Bad! Bad!
No, just kidding:)
Be careful on water-cooling your CPU, though- Although I'm
sure you know to
take extra precautions to contain the cooling water, but you
also have to be
concerned with condensation (that can really trash a
CPU). Also, even with
cooling the case (BTW, take the side panel of a
Supermicro SC750A case off
and sit a 14" mainframe fan beside the tower to
cool it:) and cooling the
CPU's heatsink, you'll only be operating with the
lower end of the
temperature differential at room temp, at best. To get
the insane speeds
you see at trade shows (and like 550 out of a 300), you
need a refrigeration
unit. And secondly, the temperature you really
need to be concerned about
is the junction temperature of the transistors on
the CPU die, not the temp
on the case or heatsink. I don't know where
AMD takes their core
temperature readings (if they even have a temp
monitor??), but watch the
core temp when overclocking!
Here's my
overclocking experience:
Processor (rated speed)
1)
Pentium 100 ( 66 MHz FSB, 1.5 multiplier = 100MHz core) PASS
Pentium 100 ( 66 MHz FSB, 2.0 multiplier = 133MHz core) FAIL
Pentium 100 ( 60 MHz FSB, 2.0 multiplier = 120MHz core)
PASS
2) Pentium 166 ( 66 MHz FSB, 2.5 multiplier = 166MHz
core) PASS
Pentium 166 ( 66 MHz FSB, 3.0 multiplier = 200MHz
core) FAIL
3) Pentium 166 MMX ( 66 MHz FSB, 2.5 multiplier =
166MHz core) PASS
Pentium 166 MMX ( 66 MHz FSB, 3.0 multiplier =
200MHz core) FAIL
Pentium 166 MMX ( 75 MHz FSB, 2.5 multiplier =
188MHz core) PASS
4) Pentium 200 MMX ( 66 MHz FSB, 3.0 multiplier =
200MHz core) PASS
Pentium 200 MMX ( 66 MHz FSB, 3.5
multiplier = 233MHz core) FAIL
Pentium 200 MMX ( 75 MHz
FSB, 3.0 multiplier = 225MHz core) PASS
5) Pentium II 266 ( 66 MHz FSB, 4.0
multiplier = 266MHz core)
PASS
Pentium II 266 ( 66 MHz FSB,
4.5 multiplier = 300MHz core)
PASS
Pentium II 266 ( 66 MHz
FSB, 5.0 multiplier = 333MHz core)
FAIL
Pentium II 266 ( 75
MHz FSB, 3.5 multiplier = 263MHz core)
PASS
Pentium II 266 (
75 MHz FSB, 4.0 multiplier = 300MHz core)
PASS
Pentium II 266
( 75 MHz FSB, 4.5 multiplier = 338MHz core)
FAIL
6) Pentium II 400 (100
MHz FSB, 4.0 multiplier = 400MHz core)
PASS
Pentium II 400
(100 MHz FSB, 4.5 multiplier = 450MHz core)
FAIL
7) Pentium II XEON 400
(100 MHz FSB, 4.0 multiplier = 400MHz core) PASS
Pentium II XEON
400 (100 MHz FSB, 4.5 multiplier = 450MHz core) FAIL
8) Pentium II XEON 400
(100 MHz FSB, 4.0 multiplier = 400MHz core) PASS
Pentium II XEON
400 (100 MHz FSB, 4.5 multiplier = 450MHz core) PASS
Pentium II
XEON 400 (100 MHz FSB, 5.0 multiplier = 500MHz core) FAIL
My definition
of PASS is that the system runs reliably for at least a month.
FAIL means it
either wouldn't boot or it had unexpected crashes or BSODs.
Also, my cooling
consisted of a huge tower case and somewhere between 4 and
10 fans as
necessary.
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
**
Unless otherwise specified, all opinions and views expressed in this
message are not endorsed, sponsored, provided, or on behalf of Intel.
-
------------------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 20:11:45 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DIN PS -> SAE HP
Matthews wrote:
>
> Does
anyone know how to convert DIN PS to SAE HP? Is there a web page
>
with such information? Thanx.
I think I found it. Please let
me know if these are incorrect:
DIN PS = kW *
1.36
SAE HP = DIN PS * 1.123
lb-ft = Nm
* .738
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 13:39:18 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Front VR-4 calipers
O.K. I decided to go ahead and get them from
Autozone. They had them for
$91 total, including the core charge. They look
like a quality rebuild, and
they are the 4 piston models (which i doubted
when i placed the order).
They also have the standard Autozone lifetime
warranty. So now i have 2
leaking calipers to use as cores when i get to that
point on my 240Z
project. ; ) So, if anybody needs front calipers for
thier VR-4, (and you
are poor like me) Autozone is the place to get them.
FYI; the next price
bracket was $129, from the dealer.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 15:49:55 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Timing belt slippage
Replaced my timing belt and tensioner last
weekend after noticing that the
belt was extremely loose. The cuts on
my hands haven't even healed yet and
today when I checked the new belt, it's
loose too!
We used the "special tool" used to push the tensioner pulley
against the
belt (10 Nm, I think), tightened the center bolt (42 ft-lbs, I
think) and
rotated the crank 4 times using the other (hunk-o-metal) special
tool.
Waited 5 or 10 minutes and checked the autotensioner clearance.
Within spec
(3.8-4.5MM, I think). Checked all the timing marks and they
were perfect.
As a sidebar, we did notice that the book calls for turning
the crank one
tooth counterclockwise from TDC to, as Mitsubishi puts it,
"facilitate the
installation of the belt." When we did it that way, we
ended up being a
tooth off every time. After 3 or 4 attempts at this,
we put the crank at
TDC and sure enough, it ended up being right on.
All 5 marks lined up.
Now, before you say "it must be the tensioner"
remember that it's only a
week old and we tested it before using
it.
Questions:
1) My understanding of the tensioner, high-tech as
it is, is that the
tensioning rod should resist being pushed in. The
same rod, however, should
pop out if there's no tension on it. This
could be important. I noticed
that both the old and new tensioner rods
popped out with little provocation.
Is this right?
2) Both times that
the timing belt came loose occured after plenty of
driving with the "street"
VPC EPROM. The timing belt showed no sign of
looseness just before
switching to the "race" EPROM which has some serious
deceleration which is
not present in the street version. The amount of
deceleration is
dependent on my "Response" setting. The more I turn the
knob up, the
more acceleration I get on the upside but the more deceleration
I get on the
downside of the RPM curve. This phenomena is documented by
HKS.
Is it possible that such rapid deceleration is causing the tensioner
pulley
center bolt to come loose?
3) Other than a bad tensioner (which I refuse
to believe), has anyone ever
had a timing belt come untensioned by a bolt
backing out?
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:03:51 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Timing
belt slippage
Same time next sunday bob 8)
Xannieria 8)
3SI
#130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 14:21:32 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: DIN PS -> SAE HP
Look for a program called
OmiCon
98.. It converts EVERYTHING known to man to EVERYTHING known to man.. exactly,
I
was absolutely impressed by it. Yes it does all work conversion I
have ever heard of
and then some.
I have a BS in Physics UCSD so I've
heard a few!
Matthews wrote:
> Does anyone know how to convert
DIN PS to SAE HP? Is there a web page
> with such information?
Thanx.
>
>
-Jim
>
> P.S.- The dyno results were VERY, VERY interesting.
We will publish to
> the web and post a summary soon.
>
>
--
> Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
> matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
>
*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
>
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable
Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super
AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz
Blow-Off Valve
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof
fluids
> Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
>
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60
4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
Andrew Brilliant
Senior Progammer/Team Council
Internet Database
Development Team
Attitude Ink, Inc.
http://www.attitudeink.com/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 15:45:51 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Mods and True gains
I am writing this post because allot of us are being
mislead by claims
from parts manufactures. K&N claims that by adding
their product your
car will get about 15 extra hp.. This is wrong, the true
HP gain from a
K&N filter is 2 hp. You might ask how do I know
this, I have seen 2
cars dyno'd. The first car was turbo charged and
the other was non
turbo.. The gain was the same. The other misconception is
that spark
plug wires give you more hp. This is wrong plug wires give 0 hp
all they
do is make sure you are getting the proper spark. The same
goes for
allot of other mobs but I am trying to keep it short.
I
know this issue will be debated and I welcome it.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 12:07:00 +1300
From: Kenneth Wells <k.wells@morganbanks.co.nz>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods and True gains
I had heard similar... What I believe is
that while it doesn't increase
the peak of the power curve, it
moves/alters the curve, giving the
feeling of more peak hp.
I
think this has been confirmed by some dyno sessions.
Kenneth W
'91 GTO
TwinTurbo
-----Original Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar [SMTP:rcousar@uswest.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 02, 1999 3:46 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
Kenneth Wells
Subject: Team3S: Mods and True gains
I am writing this post because allot of us are being mislead by
claims
from parts manufactures. K&N claims that by adding their product
your
car will get about 15 extra hp.. This is wrong, the true HP gain from
a
K&N filter is 2 hp. You might ask how do I know this, I have seen
2
cars dyno'd. The first car was turbo charged and the other was
non
turbo.. The gain was the same. The other misconception is that
spark
plug wires give you more hp. This is wrong plug wires give 0 hp all
they
do is make sure you are getting the proper spark. The same goes
for
allot of other mobs but I am trying to keep it short.
I know
this issue will be debated and I welcome it.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 15:30:19 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Mods and True gains
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Ricardo Cousar [mailto:rcousar@uswest.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, February 02, 1999 2:46 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Mods and True gains
I am writing this post because allot of us
are being mislead by claims
from parts manufactures. K&N claims that by
adding their product your
car will get about 15 extra hp.. This is wrong, the
true HP gain from a
K&N filter is 2 hp. You might ask how do I know
this, I have seen 2
cars dyno'd. The first car was turbo charged and
the other was non
turbo.. The gain was the same. The other misconception is
that spark
plug wires give you more hp. This is wrong plug wires give 0 hp
all they
do is make sure you are getting the proper spark. The same
goes for
allot of other mobs but I am trying to keep it short.
I
know this issue will be debated and I welcome
it.
=====================================
Richard...
I'm not
interested in a debate, but I'm willing to make an observation:
Advertising can be misleading and may be intentionally so on occasion.
I
haven't seen the specific K&N advertisement to which you refer, but
most
product ads are purposefully vague, stating something like: "gains of up
to
xxx hp". If you stop to consider mathematics and the English language,
their
claim is likely to be true. If, for example, K&N claimed "up to a
15hp
gain", your measured 2hp gain is indeed within the natural number
confines
of zero and fifteen. The same would be true if they said "up to a
10% hp
increase", which would be true from zero to 20hp on a 200hp engine.
The only
way it could be false is if their product restricted air flow (over
the
factory unit) and caused a hp decrease.
In your example of spark
plug wires, it could be said that they "allow" hp
increases. A 22awg wire
will not carry the voltage or amperage required to
produce the spark needed
to effectively ignite gasoline in an internal
combustion engine. A set of
8.5mm Magnecore wires would definitely allow a
hp increase over a 22awg wire.
Wires don't create horsepower, neither does
an intake, or an exhaust.
However, the optimal combination of these (and
many other) factors is what
making modifications to a factory system is all
about.
I believe I
understand what you're attempting to say, and it's been said
many times
before:
"Let the buyer beware"
BTW...several of us (I don't know
about "a lot") are measuring performance
increases based on 1/4 mile times,
not on advertisements. It's one of the
reasons that we're eagerly awaiting
the results from the European trio who
just dyno'd their cars (we don't have
AWD dynos here in the States, at least
none in Oregon).
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 17:05:14 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Detonation (stock turbos)
I wrote:
> > That
reminds me, I'm still curious as to whether the GTO twin turbos
> > in
Japan have 9B's like here in the States or 13G's like in Europe.
All
> > that the Japanese magazines ever mention is that they are
TD04's.
"R.G." responded:
> Yes, also on my 13Gs the TD04 is on
the case. But the stamped number is what
> counts and it shows the 13G
sign :)
Roger, I don't quite follow what you are saying. Are you
saying that you
~know~ that the compressor in the Japanese GTO's is a
13G? That was
my original question: Is the compressor wheel in
the Japanese GTO's a
9B (like U.S.) or a 13G (like Europe)? In either
case, TD04 should be
on the housing, since a 13G still utilizes a TD04
housing. I think you know
this. The only thing is that the
Japanese magazines don't list the compressor
size, only that the turbos are
TD04, and I don't know anyone in Japan
with a GTO.
- --Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 18:17:20 -0700
From: "PHorschel" <phorschel@utah-inter.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Timing belt slippage
Hello all,
First I would like to
thank you for a great list. Especially Roger G and
Errin H for their
help with my new DSBC and custom exhaust.
Bob,
I replaced my timing
belt and tensioner about 3 months ago. I actually did
it again three
times to see if I could get the slack out. My original belt
was
extremely loose too. Are you noticing this looseness between the
sets
of cams?
> Replaced my timing belt and tensioner last weekend
after noticing that the
> belt was extremely loose. The cuts on my
hands haven't even
> healed yet and
> today when I checked the new
belt, it's loose too!
I had the same problem. I redid mine three
times after totally putting
everything back together and driving the car and
then the next morning,
loose again. So loose that I could pull up on it
and the cam would slip a
tooth.
> We used the "special tool" used
to push the tensioner pulley against the
> belt (10 Nm, I think),
tightened the center bolt (42 ft-lbs, I think) and
> rotated the crank 4
times using the other (hunk-o-metal) special tool.
> Waited 5 or 10
minutes and checked the autotensioner clearance.
> Within spec
>
(3.8-4.5MM, I think). Checked all the timing marks and they were
perfect.
I couldn't purchase the tool from the dealer so I made one out
of a 2' piece
of 1/8"X1" steel and two small high grade bolts.
> As
a sidebar, we did notice that the book calls for turning the crank one
>
tooth counterclockwise from TDC to, as Mitsubishi puts it, "facilitate
the
> installation of the belt." When we did it that way, we ended
up being a
> tooth off every time. After 3 or 4 attempts at this, we
put the crank at
> TDC and sure enough, it ended up being right on.
All 5 marks lined up.
>
> Now, before you say "it must be the
tensioner" remember that it's only a
> week old and we tested it before
using it.
>
> Questions:
>
> 1) My understanding of the
tensioner, high-tech as it is, is that the
> tensioning rod should resist
being pushed in. The same rod,
> however, should
> pop out if
there's no tension on it. This could be important. I noticed
>
that both the old and new tensioner rods popped out with little
>
provocation.
> Is this right?
The new and the old tensioners seemed
to act the same for me too. Both
seemed to have the same amount of
spring to them. Very stiff.
> 2) Both times that the timing belt
came loose occurred after plenty of
> driving with the "street" VPC
EPROM. The timing belt showed no sign of
> looseness just before
switching to the "race" EPROM which has some serious
> deceleration which
is not present in the street version. The amount of
> deceleration
is dependent on my "Response" setting. The more I turn the
> knob
up, the more acceleration I get on the upside but the more
>
deceleration
> I get on the downside of the RPM curve. This
phenomena is documented by
> HKS. Is it possible that such rapid
deceleration is causing the tensioner
> pulley center bolt to come
loose?
Don't know anything about the affects of the EPROM. Did you
check to see if
your cam bolt was loose. I believe there is an access
hole in the cover to
look at this. However, I don't think this is your
problem.
> 3) Other than a bad tensioner (which I refuse to believe),
has anyone ever
> had a timing belt come untensioned by a bolt backing
out?
If the bolt on the cam that tensioner gets loose then your belt
will
defiantly become loose also. Are you rotating the cam(with the
special
tool) clockwise and then tightening the bolt?
BTW-I asked Brian at
the GT Alley about loose timing belts and he said this
was normal.
My
belt was coming loose because after you pull the pin(I used an allen
wrench)
out of the tensioner the cams are spring loaded off of the valves in
a way
where they want to turn to where it causes slack between them.
Therefore it
causes the tensioner to go in farther. When your belt is loose
you
should try to see if you can get the pin back in. When I took it
apart
the last time I put a wrench on the cam closest to the front of the car
and
one on the crankshaft pulley and turned them opposite from each
other(cam
counter clockwise and crankshaft clockwise), to get rid of any
slack, while
someone else used the tool and rotated the cam tensioner and
tightened the
bolt on it. We then pulled the pin out and tested it
according to the
manual and the distance on the tensioner was within
specs. Drove the car
around and it was loose again. This time you
could barely wiggle it. I
have been driving the car like this for about
10K and have had no problems.
- -Paul Horschel
93 VR4 Blitz DSBC/FATT,
K&N FIPK
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:31:16 -0800
From: "Bill" <compren@lightspeed.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mods and True gains
Sames deal, only one reply to keep this
thread short...
1st. You don't have to generate horsepower to
improve the performace of
your car. (Lose weight, reduce drag, etc.)
2nd.
Simply by reducing response time, reducing turbo lag may not increase
HP, but
it will win races. I beleive K&N helps here, but who
knows?
3rd. You talk about Dyno #'s, problem is they're not comparible
to any
other cars that have any different mods. The # of HP gained with
a K&N on
an otherwise stock car is not going to be the same as one that
has "The
Works"
4th. If a tuneup can "Create" or at least "regain"
horsepower, most people
who add new plug wires will see an improvement, not
over stock, but over
current condition. (I belive most people here use
Magnecor and they go out
of their way to say they aren't increasing your HP,
over and over again...)
- -Bill
>Subject: Team3S: Mods and
True gains
>
>I am writing this post because allot of us are being
mislead by claims
>from parts manufactures. K&N claims that by adding
their product your
>car will get about 15 extra hp..
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:41:44 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Timing belt slippage
Bob,
A certain amount of static belt
deflection (ie, when the engine is not
running) is normal. The cams at
rest will tend to roll one way or the other
creating a certain amount of
"looseness" depending upon where you are
detecting it and the direction the
cams happened to come to rest in relation
to each other.
If the belt
is flopping around though then I'd say there was a problem
;)
Regards,
Barry
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web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 02 Feb 1999 20:16:19 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: DOHC rocker arm ques.
Steve;
Don't know if anyone got back
to you on your query...hopefully someone posted
privately. If that occurs,
please note it here.
My educated guess is somewhat in synch with what you
surmise...possibly a mixing
of numbers in reassembly. There's a 50% chance
this is right. Mayhap we'll get an
educated response now, to
educated guessing :-)
Good luck
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 00:18:50 EST
From: RickMCK683@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Timing belt slippage
Bob,
I had an experience similar to yours
after having my timing belt replaced at
57000 mi. Belt, tensioner, and water
pump were replaced. About 3000 mi. after
the replacement, I took the
belt cover off to visually check the belt and
found it to be so loose that I
could spin the water pump with my finger. I
had the car towed down to
the dealer that had done the work.
They checked the car over and
said that the belt was normal. They explained
that, depending on the
position of the valves when the engine stopped, the
force of the valve
springs was great enough to rotate the inboard cams in
opposite directions
and overcome the 40-60 lbs of belt tension. This results
in slack in
the belt between the cam pulleys when it is at rest. When
the
engine is started, the valve spring tension is overcome and the timing
belt is
uniformly tight.
They demonstrated by cranking the engine
several times. Sometimes the belt
was loose and sometimes it was tight
between the inboard cam shaft pulleys
when the engine came to rest.
I
was doubtful, but didn't have any better ideas, and I drove off. I
have
since put 8000 additional mi. on the car with no problems. The
"loose" belt
at rest seems to be a normal
condition.
Rick
______________________
In
a message dated 2/2/99 12:52:27 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bfontana@securitytechnologies.com
writes:
> Replaced my timing belt and tensioner last weekend after
noticing that the
> belt was extremely loose. The cuts on my
hands haven't even healed yet and
> today when I checked the new
belt, it's loose too!
>
> <snip>
>
> Now, before you say "it must be the tensioner" remember that it's
only a
> week old and we tested it before using it.
>
> <snip>
>
> -Bob
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 03 Feb 1999 08:00:30 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: dyno results? (breath holding)
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Roger, Jim and Mikael;
>
> Are you 3 gonna keep us holding
our breath about your dyno results??
> I for one (and likely Chris, Rich
and Bob for 2, 3 and 4) would sure
> like to know your general take on the
results. I can wait for the
> technical comparative results you are likely
to post to the list,
> but darn, I cann't hold my breath much longer
:-)
Darc,
First of all, Mikael unfortunately could not join us since
Sweden is a
bit too far away. He may be visiting Roger later this year
and perhaps
they can run some sessions then. This time it was Roger,
Mike Chapleski
(Frankfurt, Ger.) and I who went. We are still trying to
verify our
conversion factors and rescale the charts for the three cars so
that
they can be overlayed properly, but I think we will have something
out
later this week. For now, take a look at the last line in my
signature
for a hint and at my Stealth web page for information on my
particular
run. Again, while the DIN PS and torque values are
absolutely correct,
I am not 100% sure about the DIN PS to SAE HP conversion
(I found the
factor on a web page and it seems correct for cars that have
both values
listed), so that value might change.
Enjoy!
-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top
Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb
99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
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