--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #87
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Saturday, January 30 1999        Volume 01 : Number 087




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:23:02 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer Case Woes

Hi Scott,

Get under the car and determine where the leak is coming from.  It is
possible if you over filled a little that it may be spitting oil out of
the top vent (this is what is happening with mine, no drops, but a light
trail of oil from the top). 


- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Mar 1999 22:43:13 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: Mitsu brake pad part number?

Can someone please send me the Mitsubishi part number for OEM front
brake pads for a U.S. spec 94 VR-4?  I checked my brakes this evening
and there is nothing left on the front right outer pad.  Metal Matrix
pads wear too quickly!  Anyway, I need to try and find replacement pads
tomorrow morning but want to make sure I have the right part number in
case the Euro-spec cars have different brakes (don't think so but not
positive and I don't have time to screw around).  TIA!

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:38:55 -0500
From: "Nexus Motorsports" <nexus@alleyesonme.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation

Something else to think about when it comes to EGT's and detonation (Jack T.
pointed this out earlier this week as well).

Too much ignition timing retard will make EGT's shoot way up.  This is very
important to remember because I've heard of folks who want to be
conservative and set their timing on retard and ended up blowing up their
engine.  When they make a run and see EGT's abnormally high, they think that
they are running too lean, so they manually retard timing even more.  It can
be confusing because you don't really know what's causing the EGT's to go up
so high, too lean, or too much ignition timing retard.

Chien
Nexus Motorsports      Import Performance Parts Specialists
http://www.nexusmotorsports.com
Phone: (301) 631-9210
Fax: (301) 631-9211


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:42:35 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation

All,

Another worthy thread.

I think Berry pretty much covered it.  My own experience prior to upgrading
the fuel system was a sudden, although suttle, reduction in acceleration at
mid to high rpm.  Opposite of what your expecting when you just dialed the
boost up a notch, (a great indicator that you just exceeded the maximum
boost you can safely run).  One exception for me has been the ability to run
92 oct. @ 18psi smoothly all the way to redline after upgrading the fuel
system.

The problem with higher octane is one of availability.  A test sometime ago
in SCC indicated that so called octane booster addatives offered only a
slight increase i.e. from 92 to 94.  In some cases this may be all that is
needed, but as far as I can tell, 116 oct is far from excessable.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:14:51 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Detonation Primer (Sorry)

All,

For those interested, here are a few less known knock (detonation) fun
facts:

Most refer to detonation as a form of pre-ignition cased by so called hot
spots in the combustion chamber such as carbon deposits or thin material
sections that cant lose heat fast enough, resulting in red hot ignition
sources.  Not our problem, Mitsu engineered one of the best engines ever for
us.

Knock is generaly recognized as instantanious ignition of the remaining
unburned fuel in the combustion chamber known as `end gas'.  As the mix
begins to burn, you can imagine that as the first half of the mix has burned
(expanded) the remaining unburned fuel has now been compressed in a big way.
Now imagine half of the remaining half, burning (expanding) resulting in
even more compression on the remaining unburned fuel.  For the more
technical minded, pressure goes up exponetially relative the the remaining
unburned fuel.  This is the reason knock always occurs on the last bit of
unburned fuel.  Granted, the more severe the knock conditions are, the
greater the amount of end gas that instantly ignites (knocks).

All combustion has a certain amount of ignition delay, including knock.  The
more severe the knock conditions, the shorter the ignition delay.  Most
modern engine designs push combustion well into the knock region, but avoid
knock  by designing for faster combustion.  This consumes the end gas before
it has a chance to instanly ignite (knock).  In other words, the end gas is
consumed within the ignition delay period of the onsetting knock.

The most effective way to speed up combustion is by inducing mixture
turbulance.  References to `fast burn' combustion chamber designs more aptly
refer to high swirel and tumble.  Richer mixtures also burn faster.  In some
extreme cases (sub-zero), when it's so cold that heat from initial
combustion moves away from the spark kernal (initial ignition at the spark
plug tip) so quickly that combustion isn't sustained, the ECU can run as
much as 90%+ fuel to air just to get things going.  Opps...too long,  sorry.

Thanks for the forum,
DaveT/92TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:27:12 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Detonation

- -----Original Message-----
From: Trent [mailto:rtrent@nlci.com]
Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 1:43 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation
<snip>
One exception for me has been the ability to run 92 oct. @ 18psi smoothly
all the way to redline after upgrading the fuel system.
<snip>
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
=========================
Dave...

Please describe what you mean by "upgrading the fuel system". Also helpful
would be a list of your other mods.

Thanks.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:25:32 -0600
From: Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer Case Woes

Ken:

I suspected that too, but they showed me the case, and pointed to the
female gear, and indicated it was coming from there.

Thanks,

Scott

On Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:23:02 -0800 Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
writes:
>Hi Scott,
>
>Get under the car and determine where the leak is coming from.  It is
>possible if you over filled a little that it may be spitting oil out
>of
>the top vent (this is what is happening with mine, no drops, but a
>light
>trail of oil from the top). 

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:00:27 -0500
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Team3S: The EVC-II on eBay

I wanted to mention something to you guys, that I'm not going to publicly
mention on eBay.

If one of you guys on the Team 3S list ends up getting it, I'm planning to
toss my old HKS turbo gauge in the box to go with it, as a bonus. The glass
is missing out of it, but again, it should be ok.

That is, if I can find it again. If I can't, I'll include a bit of Gathering
memorabilia instead, out of appreciation for you guys.

Robyn


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 15:08:40 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation

Trent wrote:

snip

> I think B>a<rry pretty much covered it.  My own experience prior to upgrading
> the fuel system was a sudden, although suttle, reduction in acceleration at
> mid to high rpm.

Trent...this mid range (to upper rpm range) has been reported by others as well. My
question is this...does this act as a split second hesitation in the acceleration curve,
or does it essentially flatten the acceleration with power loss????  If the curve
continues through/past the hesitation, rather than flattening off, one might mistake it
for a miss and assume plugs need gapping. This misdiagnosis in turn could lead to
meltdown if you were getting ready to set your best track run yet. Can you comment again
on the symptom with this possible ramifaication in mind?


Best

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:11:52 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Fwd: BRE Engines tranny mod - synchros

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_917651515_boundary
Content-ID: <0_917651515@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

I got the following message from Vernon about BRE Engines rebuilding worn AWD
trannys. I'll probably call Jeff as he suggests. Other interesting info as
well.

No word from Ligenfelter about synchros as of yet...

Paul Klusman

In a message dated 99-01-28 08:00:19 EST, venaidoo@dttus.com writes:

<<  Paul,
     
      I'm going to be talking to him today sometime, and I'll throw your
      question by him. I also suggest that you call Jeff (owner of BRE
      Engines) at (408) 995-5750.
     
      Your question aside, I hope you and your fellow members are aware of a
      CD that is going to produced in the next month or so, that will
      contain all 3000GT/Stealth tech info in it. If you're interested in
      this, talk to Vineet Singh (a280z@hotmail.com), and he will fill you
      in on more info. He owns the one for the DSM cars, and the CD also
      contains various projects that members have undertaken with pictures.
     
      Hope I was helpful.
     
      Vernon Naidoo.
  >>


- --part0_917651515_boundary
Content-ID: <0_917651515@inet_out.mail.dttus.com.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

Return-Path: <venaidoo@dttus.com>
Received: from  rly-ya01.mx.aol.com (rly-ya01.mail.aol.com [172.18.144.193])
by air-ya02.mx.aol.com (v56.24) with SMTP; Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:00:19
1900
Received: from ans2-pub.dttus.com (ans2-pub.dttus.com [204.151.11.3])
  by rly-ya01.mx.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
  with SMTP id IAA05280 for <Klusmanp@aol.com>;
  Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:00:16 -0500 (EST)
Received: by ans2-pub.dttus.com id AA26184
  (InterLock SMTP Gateway 3.0 for Klusmanp@aol.com);
  Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:00:18 -0600
Received: by ans2-pub.dttus.com (Internal Mail Agent-3);
  Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:00:18 -0600
X400-Received: by ans2-pub.dttus.com (Internal Mail Agent-2);
  Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:00:18 -0600
X400-Received: by ans2-pub.dttus.com (Internal Mail Agent-1);
  Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:00:18 -0600
X400-Mts-Identifier: [/c=US/admd=TeleMail/prmd=Deloitte/;
0AFA836B05F202F9-MTAUSCNT1DT]
Content-Identifier: 0AFA836B05F202F9
Content-Return: Allowed
X400-Content-Type: P2-1988 ( 22 )
Conversion: Allowed
Original-Encoded-Information-Types: IA5-Text
Priority: normal
Disclose-Recipients: Prohibited
Alternate-Recipient: Allowed
X400-Originator: venaidoo@deloitte.com
X400-Recipients: non-disclosure;
Message-Id:
 
<0AFA836B05F202F9*/c=US/admd=TeleMail/prmd=Deloitte/o=ccMailGW/s=Naidoo/g=Vernon/@MHS>
Date: 28 Jan 1999 06:59:12 -0600
From: Vernon Naidoo <venaidoo@dttus.com>
To: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Re: BRE Engines tranny mod.
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit


     Paul,
    
     I'm going to be talking to him today sometime, and I'll throw your
     question by him. I also suggest that you call Jeff (owner of BRE
     Engines) at (408) 995-5750.
    
     Your question aside, I hope you and your fellow members are aware of a
     CD that is going to produced in the next month or so, that will
     contain all 3000GT/Stealth tech info in it. If you're interested in
     this, talk to Vineet Singh (a280z@hotmail.com), and he will fill you
     in on more info. He owns the one for the DSM cars, and the CD also
     contains various projects that members have undertaken with pictures.
    
     Hope I was helpful.
    
     Vernon Naidoo.


______________________________ Reply Separator
_________________________________
Subject: BRE Engines tranny mod.
Author:  Klusmanp@aol.com at Internet-USA
Date:    1/27/99 6:43 PM


Vernon,
    
I am a member of a car enthusiasts club who trade technical information about
the Mitsubishi 3000GT and the Dodge Stealth via the internet. The synchros in
the 5 and 6 speed manual transaxles tend to wear out, and unfortunately, the
tranny manufacturer refuses to release individual parts for transmission
repair/rebuild. I'm not sure what the situation is for the Eclipse/Talon, but
anyone who owns one of our cars must swap out the worn transmission for a
completely new unit at considerable cost.
    
One of our members spotted your post on the DSM digest about the tranny mod by
BRE Engines. Would BRE be able to rebuild a worn tranny (needs new synchros)
from an AWD 3000GT/Stealth? To do so, they would have to be able to
repair/recondition/duplicate the synchros or adapt synchros from another
vehicle. Appreciate any info you could pass my way.
    
Paul Klusman

- --part0_917651515_boundary--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:23:11 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Detonation Primer (Sorry)

I just wanted to add a bit.  The "richer mixture will burn faster" bit
should not be construed as richer is better.  There is a limit to how rich
the mixture is before it starts to do one or more of

a) not ignite at all
b) waste fuel (political point that may or may not be relevant <g>)
c) reduce power output through incomplete combustion
d) cause combustion in the exhaust manifolds

What this limit is depends on a number of factors and the math would exceed
the length of the original post several-fold ;)

Also, Chien's (and Bob's or Jack's) point should not go unheeded -- high
EGTs do not always mean a lean burn.  In our cars more often than not I am
convinced high EGTs are the direct result of excessive timing due to
presence of detonation.  This is not to under emphasize the importance of an
adequate fuel system.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----

<snipped>

> The most effective way to speed up combustion is by inducing mixture
> turbulance.  References to `fast burn' combustion chamber designs
> more aptly
> refer to high swirel and tumble.  Richer mixtures also burn
> faster.

<snipped>
>
> Thanks for the forum,
> DaveT/92TT
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 00:30:04 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Questions:  4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush

"Barry E. King" wrote:
 
> AWD/4WD vehicles tend to want to wander a bit anyway.  Since the front
> wheels are driving wheels they tend to pull up on irregularities in the
> road.  This phenomenon is exacerbated by wide tires.

I'm assuming "pull" implies acceleration.  my problems occur more while
coasting or braking.  I agree that the tires are an issue, but I have driven
plenty of HUGE tired vehicles including numerous 930's and a 94 VR4 that were
nowhere near this bad.

> Remember that the VR4 (and 3K/S in general) has a very pronounced forward
> weight bias which can make the car feel a little more excitable under
> certain situations.  This is not a big deal though.  I have literally had my
> car airborne at over 135 MPH (on a rather rough road with many dips and
> curves - my favorite local test road) without any nasty behavior from the
> car and that was with the stock suspension.  I would not do this on purpose
> again nor suggest that anyone try it but the car handles amazingly well for
> what it is.

yahoo!  :)
 
> If the car is truly being extremely jumpy then there may well be something
> wrong with the suspension.

exactly what I'm trying to determine! :)  I guess I'm trying to find out what
might be damaged or malfunctioning to cause such abnormal behaviour.  I was
hoping someone would say "hey, I had the same problem and it was the xxx part."
I also realize that there are a number of variables to isolate. 

I guess I'll give the body shop a try and see what they can determine. 

Thanks to everybody that replied!  It's wonderful to be part of such a helpful
group! 

sorry about the original multiple question post.  I know better now.

Dave
91 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 00:55:26 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject: Team3S: miniture bulbs for active-aero switch

I realize this is pretty low-tech, but I thought I'd share some info that
Mitsubishi couldn't help me with.  I noticed that only one of the lights in
the active-aero switch was coming on, and figured, no biggie, I'll get a few
bulbs at the dealer.  no dice.  buy a new $50 switch to replace a $0.75 bulb. 
ahem, does this scenario sound familiar?  either that or the parts guy here
doesn't have a clue.

solution:  radio shack - part # 272-1092B contains 2 12V 60mA micro lamps that
aren't exact replacements (they're a tad shorter) but they work just fine.  you
only have to unhook the old bulb from the plastic base and feed the new one in.
pretty obvious when you look at it.  I heard somebody refer to them as "grain
of wheat" bulbs in case radio shack isn't in your area, maybe a hardware store
will have them.

hope this is useful to somebody..

Dave
91VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:52:04 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject: Team3S: arg!  sorry for the double posts..

RE: the "Questions" and "miniture bulbs" posts, I don't have any idea why they
came through again..   I thought the original post bounced..  sorry about that..

Dave
91VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 08:30:08 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2nd gen VR-4/TT OEM brake pad part number?

Matthews wrote:
>
> Can someone please send me the Mitsubishi part number for OEM front
> brake pads for a U.S. spec 94 VR-4?  I checked my brakes this evening
> and there is nothing left on the front right outer pad.  Metal Matrix
> pads wear too quickly!  Anyway, I need to try and find replacement pads
> tomorrow morning but want to make sure I have the right part number in
> case the Euro-spec cars have different brakes (don't think so but not
> positive and I don't have time to screw around).  TIA!
>
>                 -Jim

Not sure if the above message went out last night due to an incorrect
timestamp (sorry!).  Is there anyone out there with a shop manual for a
2nd gen VR-4 or TT that could provide me with this info?  It's 0830 here
so I need it ASAP!  Thanx!!

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 08:40:47 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation

Darc,

Unfortunately it is somewhat subtle, depending on your butt dyno.  In my
case, I suspect all are slightly different depending on mods, around 4500
when I was expecting max boost, acceleration would level off to such an
extent that I would let off the gas after realizing that something wasn't
right.  The one or two times that I stayed on it, if I recall, resulted in
continued moderated acceleration.  This was not a fuel-cut violent (you will
know when this happens) response, but a more subtle leveling off as boost
starts to peak.
To summerize, the most important thing to remember is that if it seems your
not getting improved acceleration with respect to turning up your boost, you
probably just reached your detonation limit.  On my butt dyno this was
noticable when going from 1.0 bar to 1.1 bar with the stock fuel system.
Roger G. confirmed this with his dyno tests.  See his excellent web sight
for more info.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

>Trent...this mid range (to upper rpm range) has been reported by others as
well. My
>question is this...does this act as a split second hesitation in the
acceleration curve,
>or does it essentially flatten the acceleration with power loss????  If the
curve
>continues through/past the hesitation, rather than flattening off, one
might mistake it
>for a miss and assume plugs need gapping. This misdiagnosis in turn could
lead to
>meltdown if you were getting ready to set your best track run yet. Can you
comment again
>on the symptom with this possible ramifaication in mind?
>
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:09:19 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Budget fuel upgrade

All,

For those on a tight budget, I think this may be the most cost effective way
to upgrade fuel.  With some help from Chien at Nexus, heres a list of
absolute minimum equipment required, (don't try to skip anything, I upgraded
each component one at a time trying to avoid upgrading the injectors, it
didn't work).

In order:

Apex AFC ~ 400.00
Denso 280 lph in-tank pump ~ 350
RC 500cc injectors ~ 84.00ea.

For those interested, the following minimum upgrades will get you to Viper
class thrust:

Apex boost controller ~ 350.00
13g turbos (TEC) ~ 700.00ea.
Apex EGT ~ 300.00
Stock BOV
Stock intercoolers
Stock exhaust/no cats (racing only mind you).  BTW the factory volume switch
takes on new meaning without the cats.  In sport mode, the volume is
down-right uncivilized, but in tour mode it's back to Cadillac quite (not
that thats a good thing).
I've had an ATR down pipe setting in my garage for 6 months now, it wouldn't
fit up with the stock cat back, and I havn't made a great deal of effort to
make it fit.

When you get to 18 psi, your stock y-pipe will likely blow-off the throttle
body.  I fabbed an aluminum yoke that ties back to the throttle body.  If
nothing else, make sure you have a good phillips head so you can make it
home when it does (and it will) happen.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 08:41:35 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: Re: [Fwd: A\Team

Rich wrote:
>
> I received the following this evening.  The dead horse is trying to
> rise, and I'm just not in the mood tonight to beat it.
>
> Comments, anyone?
>
> Rich

Well, if you decide not to ignore it, then I say post it to the list
like he asks you to!  And leave his name in it this time for all to
see.  It will only further justify your actions.

BTW, if folks are tired of the rules, then they are in the minority,
IMO.  No one is forcing them to stay.  It is not surprising to me that
folks who LIKE the starnet and dragnet social groups cannot stomach a
sirius technical group and will probably whine and slide back down to a
level more appropriate for them.

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 15:17:39 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2nd gen VR-4/TT OEM brake pad part number?

The part number I came up with is MR389515, and of course there are none
to be found anywhere in central Germany.  It seems that the Euro-spec
brake pads are too large and won't fit.  I wonder how badly it would
screw up my rotor if I go through with this dyno trip to Switzerland
when only three of the four front pads have meat on them...

-Jim  :-(
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 15:21:54 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: [Fwd: A\Team

Boy, I'm on a roll this morning.  Obviously, that last message was not
intended for the group.  My sincere apologies to those involved.
Similar Email aliases are a dangerous thing.  :-(

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:29:26 -0500
From: jaystump <jstump@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Blitz Dual SBC

I have installed a dual SBC in a '91 VR-4. When the unit is off the
autometer boost gauge shows that I am getting about 11 psi. I thought
these cars came with stock 9 psi.
When the blitz unit is on, the limiter set at 1.05, Gain at 32, Ratio at
45, the pressure builds to about 13-14 psi and then I get a sputtering.
The warn limiter does not come on and Beep, Beep.

The boost gauge is installed in line coming off the manifold with a tee
fitting, directly after this fitting is the tee fitting for the Dual
SBC.

Am I losing pressure through the Y-pipe?
Could my timing be off ?
Could the install be incorrect?
Should I revearse the order of the gauge and the boost controller in the
vacuum/boost line coming off the manifold?

Thanks for any suggestions.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 07:53:36 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz Dual SBC

> I have installed a dual SBC in a '91 VR-4. When the unit is off the
> autometer boost gauge shows that I am getting about 11 psi. I thought
> these cars came with stock 9 psi.

You are right, they did.  But keep in mind that is the boost pressure as
regulated by the stock solenoid.  With the boost controller in the picture
things change accordingly.

I have a '94.  With the stock boost enabled I see around 12.5 PSI.  With the
AVC-R installed but disabled (either turned off or the head unit unplugged)
I see no more than 7 PSI, which is right around the natural activation
pressure of the stock control actuator.  Uncontrolled boost will really
depend on how the unit is plumbed and what type of unit is installed.

I am sure Roger or other Blitz DSBC owners can add more.  Tuning the DSBC
can be tricky from some reports.  Roger has excellent tuning nfo on his site
at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html.

> When the blitz unit is on, the limiter set at 1.05, Gain at 32, Ratio at
> 45, the pressure builds to about 13-14 psi and then I get a sputtering.
> The warn limiter does not come on and Beep, Beep.

Check to ensure that the Y-pipe is secure.  I am assuming you have the stock
one in place.  They can leak and/or blow off completely even when tight at
pressure as low as 15 psi.  13-14 isn't that far off.

Also, what plug gap are you running?  Your plugs must be in good shape and
be gapped to accomodate the higher cylinder pressures.  Try a gap of 0.034"
for 15 psi and adjust from there.

> The boost gauge is installed in line coming off the manifold with a tee
> fitting, directly after this fitting is the tee fitting for the Dual
> SBC.

As long as both the gauge and the controller see close to the same pressure
source you should be fine.  It isn't 100% clear to me how you have your
connected but I am assuming that it is like this:

Pardon the ASCII art.  If this is a no-no I am sure the admins will spank me
=) (and enjoy it, right Darc?)

  ^ to FPR
  |
  |
  +--------> to DSBC
  |
  |
  +--------> to boost gauge
  |
  |
- -----------------------------
 Plenum                     |
                            |


If your setup is not like this or some variation then you should change it
accordingly for best results.

Ideally all lines would tap directly to the plenum but this requires some
drilling.

> Am I losing pressure through the Y-pipe?

Possibly.  Also inspect the cheesy gasket in the Y-pipe.  They are notorious
for cracking and can also get turned over on themselves when being
reinstalled, causing a crease which can leak and pretty much ruins the seal
for high boost.  I recommend budgetting for a good aftermarket Y-pipe to
avoid this grief once and for all.

> Could my timing be off ?

I doubt that.

> Could the install be incorrect?

Maybe  ;)

> Should I revearse the order of the gauge and the boost controller in the
> vacuum/boost line coming off the manifold?

I doubt that will make any appreciable difference it it is plumbed as
illustrated above.


Regards,

Barry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:05:26 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation

Trent;

Understood. It sounds like this cannot really be confused as a miss or brief hesitation,
and that power loss is noticeable enough to indicate detonation is occurring in it's
more subtle manifestation. Fuel cut ( when the knock sensor  triggers cut as the result
of major detonation) is much less than subtle, and  there is no chance of not noticing
your nose is in the dash.

Thanks.

Darc

Trent wrote:

> Darc,
>
> Unfortunately it is somewhat subtle, depending on your butt dyno.  In my
> case, I suspect all are slightly different depending on mods, around 4500
> when I was expecting max boost, acceleration would level off to such an
> extent that I would let off the gas after realizing that something wasn't
> right.  The one or two times that I stayed on it, if I recall, resulted in
> continued moderated acceleration.  This was not a fuel-cut violent (you will
> know when this happens) response, but a more subtle leveling off as boost
> starts to peak.
> To summerize, the most important thing to remember is that if it seems your
> not getting improved acceleration with respect to turning up your boost, you
> probably just reached your detonation limit.  On my butt dyno this was
> noticable when going from 1.0 bar to 1.1 bar with the stock fuel system.
> Roger G. confirmed this with his dyno tests.  See his excellent web sight
> for more info.
>
> Regards,
> DaveT/92TT
>
> >Trent...this mid range (to upper rpm range) has been reported by others as
> well. My
> >question is this...does this act as a split second hesitation in the
> acceleration curve,
> >or does it essentially flatten the acceleration with power loss????  If the
> curve
> >continues through/past the hesitation, rather than flattening off, one
> might mistake it
> >for a miss and assume plugs need gapping. This misdiagnosis in turn could
> lead to
> >meltdown if you were getting ready to set your best track run yet.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:20:53 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz Dual SBC

If it's not the plug gap and it's not a loose hose, then consider this:

If the "FPR" in the picture is really referring to the FPR solenoid, then
the SBC can be affected by the solenoid as its valve opens to the real FPR
and the SBC can affect the FPR.  I'm not sure that it's good to have those
two things on the same line.

Bob swiss-cheese-hole-tap-plenum mod, bolt-sticking-out-of-timing-cover mod

>
>   ^ to FPR
>   |
>   |
>   +--------> to DSBC
>   |
>   |
>   +--------> to boost gauge
>   |
>   |
> -----------------------------
>  Plenum                     |

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:34:37 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S: "Mitsubishi" brake calipers?

I have a 93 Stealth non-turbo, and I have seen a few 3K's with the black
brake calipers with the "Mitsubishi" lettering on them. I would like to
find out how to get some, are they stovk on VR-4's? I have Enkei wheels
now and my ugly stock calipers are clearly showing. Any hel would be
greatly appreciated.

Matt
3/Si #311
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:42:17 -0800
From: Roger Ludwig Jr <yiotta@e-z.net>
Subject: Team3S: Tires

Time for new tires, but I think I am going to hold off on new wheels
:(   (I really want 17 or 18 inch but...$$)  Anyway,  I have the
standard 225/55R-16 Yokos on my SL right now.  I have narrowed my choice
down to the Michelin Pilot XGT, Pirelli P7000 Supersport, and the
Yokohama AVS.  Any input from this list regarding my choices would be
appreciated, I am leaning toward the Pirelli right now.  Another
question is can I go wider?  How about 235 or 245, I seem to recall a
brief discussion about that a few months ago.  Love this list, thanks
again.

Roger Ludwig
Vancouver Washington
1994 Panama Pearl Green 3000GTSL
Cream Leather Interior
Soon to have custom exhaust/FIPK
Someday to have VR-4  :)   (waiting for that tranny thing to resolve)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:25:21 -0800
From: Roger Ludwig Jr <yiotta@e-z.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: "Mitsubishi" brake calipers?

- --------------6605BA2C3AF0FC10C9E0F423
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Matt,
I had the same problem, I took off the ugly grey calipers and painted them with orange
heat resistant paint last year - awesome!  It looks great (like the new porshe
brakes).... cheap and easy.

Roger Ludwig Jr
Vancouver Washington
94 3000GT-SL

Michael Booker wrote:

> I have a 93 Stealth non-turbo, and I have seen a few 3K's with the black
> brake calipers with the "Mitsubishi" lettering on them. I would like to
> find out how to get some, are they stovk on VR-4's? I have Enkei wheels
> now and my ugly stock calipers are clearly showing. Any hel would be
> greatly appreciated.
>
>

- --------------6605BA2C3AF0FC10C9E0F423
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Matt,
<br>I had the same problem, I took off the ugly grey calipers and painted
them with orange heat resistant paint last year - awesome!&nbsp; It looks
great (like the new porshe brakes).... cheap and easy.
<p>Roger Ludwig Jr
<br>Vancouver Washington
<br>94 3000GT-SL
<p>Michael Booker wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>I have a 93 Stealth non-turbo, and I have seen a
few 3K's with the black
<br>brake calipers with the "Mitsubishi" lettering on them. I would like
to
<br>find out how to get some, are they stovk on VR-4's? I have Enkei wheels
<br>now and my ugly stock calipers are clearly showing. Any hel would be
<br>greatly appreciated.
<br>&nbsp;
<br><a href="http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm"></a>&nbsp;</blockquote>
</html>

- --------------6605BA2C3AF0FC10C9E0F423--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:10:14 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires

I put Firestone Firehawk SZ50's in 245/50 ZR16's
on my 93SL. Ride was much smother than the Toyo's
that were stock. Excellent lateral grip and road
feel. They just kept on sticking at WOT turns.
Feedback was real good and rain traction good.
Never had them in snow, traded car for 96 VR4.

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:18:39 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Detonation

DaveT wrote:

> To summerize, the most important thing to remember is that if it seems your
> not getting improved acceleration with respect to turning up your boost, you
> probably just reached your detonation limit.  On my butt dyno this was
> noticable when going from 1.0 bar to 1.1 bar with the stock fuel system.
> Roger G. confirmed this with his dyno tests.  See his excellent web sight
> for more info.

Dave,

When you noticed this acceleration drop-off "when going from 1.0 bar
to 1.1 bar" was this with the 13G's or the 9B's?  Remember that we have
discovered that Roger Gerl's VR4 has 13G's in it because it is a Euro
version.  I am skeptical as to whether Mitsubishi upgraded any of the
other fuel components when deciding to use the 13G's in Europe, and
if so the stock 365cc injectors would be highly inadequate. Also keep
in mind (if this test was on the 9B's) that they do not hold boost at the
higher rpms.  Most people feel a drop off from ~15lbs to about 10-12
lbs in the range of 4500-5000 rpms.  I can tell you that I certainly do.
It is possible to attribute this feeling to timing retard due to detonation.

(Aside: Did you know that the 93+ Supra's stock turbos sustain 20lbs
of boost from about 4000rpm and it drops only to 18lbs at the 7000rpm
redline?  Shows that it helps to have 550cc injectors stock.)

That reminds me, I'm still curious as to whether the GTO twin turbos
in Japan have 9B's like here in the States or 13G's like in Europe.  All
that the Japanese magazines ever mention is that they are TD04's.

- --Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 20:25:19 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 2nd gen VR-4/TT OEM brake pad part number?

Hmmm... Are you sure that the Euro pads doesn't work on your US car?? Me and Roger have compared the callipers and we cant see any difference. And the pads that we have (Pagid) are the same.

Witch pad is the bad one? And when are you going to Roger? I think that I have my old pad somewhere and there is a little "meat" left on them. If you want, I can send you one of my old ones for free. But you will not have it until wednesday or thursday. Or you can probably get one from Roger when you see him next week.

/Mikael 


- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 3:12 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2nd gen VR-4/TT OEM brake pad part number?


>The part number I came up with is MR389515, and of course there are none
>to be found anywhere in central Germany.  It seems that the Euro-spec
>brake pads are too large and won't fit.  I wonder how badly it would
>screw up my rotor if I go through with this dyno trip to Switzerland
>when only three of the four front pads have meat on them...
>
> -Jim  :-(
>--
>Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
>matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
>*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
>Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
>A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
>Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
>Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
>Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
>G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 20:22:54 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz Dual SBC

I had some strange boost problems after I installed the Blitz.

The problem I had was related to the Stock boost solenoid.

I guess that you haven't disconnected your Stock boost solenoid. Right?

Removing the stock boost solenoid will make the "off" pressure to drop to 0.6-0.7.

To disconnect the solenoid just pull the hose that goes from the "H" to the stock solenoid (on the fire wall) and plug the hose with a bolt and use a hose clamp to be sure it doesn't leak.

Hope this helps. Good luck.

Mikael http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4

- -----Original Message-----
From: jaystump
>I have installed a dual SBC in a '91 VR-4. When the unit is off the
>autometer boost gauge shows that I am getting about 11 psi. I thought these cars came with stock 9 psi.
<SNIP>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:10:11 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: stumbling problem (and brakes saga update)

Special thanx to Barry K. and Mike M. for their advice on the stumbling
problem I began noticing after installing the Blitz BOV.  After making
sure that all hose and vacuum line connections were tight, I started
playing with the adjustment screw, which was all the way out when I got
it.  I first tried threading the screw in by hand until I felt
resistance, but the difference was almost too subtle to notice - still
stumbling.  Then I continued to crank it down with an allen wrench until
about 1.5 threads remained above the lock nut, and this seems to have
improved the situation - the stumbling is still there but not nearly as
pronounced.  The blow off sound is also not as loud (fine with me) and I
suppose the benefits of the BOV are also reduced.  As my interest in the
BOV is mainly to eliminate the hooting intake resonance caused by the
FIPK (which it does), I may continue to crank down the screw until the
stumble completely disappears even if it renders the BOV ineffective.  I
will do some experimenting on this dyno trip and post my findings upon
my return.

BTW, I will be making the trip on only three front brake pads tomorrow.
Roger has some pads I can use once I get to his place, but it will be
interesting to see how well Mike and I can manage the 400 km drive
without using the brakes!  I think it will require someTeam3Swork.  Wish
us luck... Switzerland or bust!

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:17:02 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 2nd gen VR-4/TT OEM brake pad part number?

Mikael Åkesson wrote:
>
> Hmmm... Are you sure that the Euro pads doesn't work on your US car?? Me and Roger have compared the callipers and we cant see any difference. And the pads that we have (Pagid) are the same.

Well, I took the pad with me this morning to three Mitsu dealerships and
none of them could find a match.  The part number they came up with were
different than the Euro-spec part number and they said my pad is
smaller.


> Witch pad is the bad one? And when are you going to Roger? I think that I have my old pad somewhere and there is a little "meat" left on them. If you want, I can send you one of my old ones for free. But you will not have it until wednesday or thursday. Or you can probably get one from Roger when you see him next week.

Mike and I leave tomorrow morning.  We've decided to just try and make
the drive while minimizing braking.  It's a 400 km trip but all Autobahn
so we may be okay.  Roger has some pads I can use once we get there and
I have my fingers crossed that they will fit/work.  If not, I'm in real
trouble and I may have to make the Bremsa upgrade a little sooner than I
had planned!  :-|

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:31:32 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 15 G Turbos for sale.

Two TEC 15G Turbos for sale. These are in absolutely perfect/mint condition.
The original housings were new Greddy 13G's upgraded by TEC to 15G's.
I ran 11.41 @ 124.32 MPH with them on 10/17/98. $1500.00.

Also have a set of used stock turbos $250.00 for the stock set.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #87
***************************

For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm