--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #86
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Friday, January 29 1999 Volume
01 : Number
086
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:31:06 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fuel pressure
Fuel pressure changes as boost increases.
The stock pressure regulator
increases fuel pressure 1 PSI for every PSI of
boost. Pressure at idle is
43 PSI. When the charge air pressure
in the intake manifold increases
(where the injectors happen to be trying to
push fuel into) fuel pressure
must be increased correspondingly overcome
manifold pressure.
So, if you are using 20 PSI of boost, you want to be
able to maintain 63 PSI
of fuel pressure. The stock FPR appears to be
able to handle it
pressure-wise, but I'm not sure that the stock pump and
injectors can supply
enough fuel to match the A/F ratio needed at 20
PSI.
As an aside, when the RPMs are increased to over 3000, the shunt on
the fuel
pump is bypassed, increasing the voltage to the pump which helps
maintain
pressure when not under boost. That's my understanding from
the manual,
anyway. (Barry can probably give a far more detailed
description).
- -Bob
> Are our fuel pressure the same all the
time or does the pressure
> increase if boost and RPM
change?
>
> If pressure changes, what is it that controlls it's
function?
>
> What's the stock fuel pressure on a
VR-4?
>
> How high pressure shall be used with 15G turbos? (560
injectors)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:45:21 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Fuel pressure
Thanks Bob and Barry for the quick
replys.
Haven't processed everything thru my brain yet :)
How much
do the stock fuel pump flow??
/Mikael
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:24:40 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: have you
seen this vacunm tube?
For those DOHC non-turbo owners on
the list:
I need help locating a vacumn tube assembly's
place on the engine. It is a
metal assembly consisting of 2 tubes, about 24"
long, and has 3 tabs to bolt
it down with. I need to know where it physically
goes on the engine.
I am assembling an engine that somebody took
apart.
Thanks,
SteveC
'91
3000GT SL
Lomcevak@aol.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:19:52 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: VR-4 front calipers
Has anybody bought front calipers (4 piston)
from Autozone? The reason i
ask is because they gave me a price of $56.99 +
35.00 core charge. This
just doesn't seem right. If they are the correct
calipers, i'm going to
stock up on them, before they realize they are giving
them away. Please let
me know soon....
Wayne
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:23:27 -0600
From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: VR-4 front calipers
I don't know about Autozone, but, Big
Wheel Rossi wanted $180+core each.
I would definitely jump on this if
they are the right
ones!!!
Mark
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark
Wendlandt Honeywell CASSPO-Development
Phone:
957-3736 Pager:
601-0881
Email: Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Wayne [mailto:wala@hypertech-inc.com]
Sent:
Thursday, January 28, 1999 11:20 AM
To: stealth@starnet.net
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: VR-4 front calipers
Has anybody bought front calipers (4
piston) from Autozone? The reason i
ask is because they gave me a price of
$56.99 + 35.00 core charge. This
just doesn't seem right. If they are the
correct calipers, i'm going to
stock up on them, before they realize they are
giving them away. Please let
me know soon....
Wayne
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:48:04 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mitsu Engines and Clutches
Just wanted to add another
note on Quality Import.... I had emailed them
Tuesday with some questions
regarding their parts and procedures on the 6G72
engines. Today I had a call
from a rep there, and was actually quite impressed
with what I heard. If
everything I was told is true, this may be a decent
alternative..the main
points being they are willing to work with list members
and give discounts -
and they have a 5 year parts and labor warrantee. The
engine is selling for
$2800 right now, which is a good bit cheaper than a new
Mits engine (even
from a dealer who discounts for list members.
If my
current engine endeaver fails, I am going to fly out to thier
rebuilding
facility in Wichita to look around, and I will give the list a
report on what
I see.
He did say they normally use aftermarket bearings,
but I could option to
have OEM installed if they built one for me. He also
did'nt seem too concerned
about problems with turning crankshafts, they do it
all the time.
Anyways, just to let you all know the
engines are about $500 cheaper than
the web site has them listed right
now.
SteveC
'91 3000GT
SL
Lomcevak@aol.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:54:29 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Onto the 4th transmission?
Marc Spinale wrote:
>
> My 93 3kgt VR4 is now on it's third transmission.
Thankfully,
> the warranty covered it once again. This time, the trans
is
> making noise as the car idles in neutral. The sound could
almost
> be mistaken for an internal engine problem (thankfully, it's
not!
> :) The noise does stop eventually after depressing the
clutch.
> Pulling back the throw-out bearing by hand has not effect --
it's
> inside alright...
My '91 VR4 exhibits the exact same
symptoms. The guy I bought it from
had the tranny replaced about 32K
ago. It sounds like a noisy throwout
bearing or noisy output shaft
bearing, sound goes away when you depress
the clutch pedal. The sound
persisted even after changing to Redline
MTL in the tranny. I'll
probably switch to Redline MT90 soon though to
see if it has an affect.
The sound hasn't gotten any better or worse in
the 14 months and 25K miles
I've owned it.
- --
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San
Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:10:04 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Me too, was: stumbling problem with Blitz BOV
> I really hate
"me to" posts but now I shall post one.
I don't hate "me too" posts
because they are extremely important in
identifying trends. I think
posting abnormal symptoms especially if it
might be related to an aftermarket
product installation is very valuable
information to the list. Had you
posted earlier, it might have played a
part in Jim's decision to purchase the
same product or consider an
alternative. Both your post and Jim's post
will certainly cause me to
consider an alternative until a solution is
found. I do wish this
valuable information was being compiled and
placed into the FAQ though.
Keep up the good info coming...
- --
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:21:26 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Me
too, was: stumbling problem with Blitz BOV
I have had no problems with my
Blitz that were not related to installation.
It is IMO not the simplest
installation in that it is easy to get it not
quite right. Once the
installation was perfectly clean the Blitz has worked
as it should without
stumbling or hesitation as described by Jim and Mikael.
I used it before my
turbo upgrade also so it saw use with a basic upgrade
setup.
I am not
convinced the price of the Blitz warrants the unit however.
Although I am
completely happy with mine and do not regret the purchase, if
I were to get
another one of this price range I would opt for an
electronically actuated
unit which run in the same price range. They are
usually manufactured
with much tighter cylinder clearances and therefore are
not prone to leaking
under boost. My Blitz will leak above around 18-20 PSI
which is likely
not unique to the Blitz.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> > I really hate "me to" posts but now I
shall post one.
>
> I don't hate "me too" posts because they are
extremely important in
> identifying trends. I think posting
abnormal symptoms especially if it
> might be related to an aftermarket
product installation is very valuable
> information to the list. Had
you posted earlier, it might have played a
> part in Jim's decision to
purchase the same product or consider an
> alternative. Both your
post and Jim's post will certainly cause me to
> consider an alternative
until a solution is found. I do wish this
> valuable information was
being compiled and placed into the FAQ though.
> Keep up the good info
coming...
>
> --
>
> Ken Middaugh
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:24:40 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
VR-4 front calipers
I am not saying these are not good quality calipers,
but all that glitters
is not gold, as it were.
Far too many automotive
rebuilt units are done by unsupervised, unqualified
"technicians" being paid
nowehere near what qualified people doing the same
work would be paid.
Hence, quality can suffer as you might imagine.
I would definitely check
them out thoroughly before spending this month's
paycheck on a bunch
;)
To qualify that, I used to buy alternators and starters from them
for
vehicles I didn't want to spend money on. Some places offer a
"lifetime"
gaurantee and end up replacing it every other year or so. A
PITA but it did
save dollars (but not time). Personally I wouldn't do
this with my VR4,
especially not with critical components like brakes, but
will do it on other
vehicles that play a more utilitarian role. My '88
Astro went through 3
Autozone alternators and 2 starters in 24 months.
At least I only paid for
one of each ;) Free batteries every 2 years
was nice as well...
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Wayne
> Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 10:20 AM
> To: stealth@starnet.net
> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 front calipers
>
>
> Has anybody bought
front calipers (4 piston) from Autozone? The reason i
> ask is because
they gave me a price of $56.99 + 35.00 core charge. This
> just doesn't
seem right. If they are the correct calipers, i'm going to
> stock up on
them, before they realize they are giving them away.
> Please let
>
me know soon....
>
> Wayne
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:10:17 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: stumbling problem with Blitz BOV
Is there a way to configure
the Blitz like a Greddy BOV? Mine has a tube I
bought at a autoparts
place that goes from the y-pipe to the BOV (the main
blow off pipe) and
vents to the atmosphere. The hole left from the stock
bov is then
plugged with a stopper (found at home depot ... just a big hunk
of rubber)
and held on with a hose clamp. Get a stopper that is just
bigger than
the size of the hole and mash it in there (real tech terms
here). Then
run the stock activator hose to the BOV. Until I got rid of
the stock
BOV it did kinda what your saying yours did.
Brian
snip
8<--------------------
Me to!
I have the same problem, idle goes
down under 500 rpm when I use the clutch
(no throttle). The engine almost
stalls and the headlight dim and then it
picks rpm up to normal level
again.
I'm 100% sure that the problem is related to the Blitz BOV becasue
I didn't
have this problem before I installed the
BOV.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.co
m/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:49:47 -0500
From: jaystump <jstump@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Headlamps
For Everyone who wants to update your
headlamps
Dear Mr. Stump
To the best of our knowledge the
200mm H4 headlamps should fit into your
Dodge Stealth/Mitsu 3000 (91-93). Our
part number is 72206. We do
however
recommend that you verify the
measurements of you headlamps.
Best regards,
Hella,Inc.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:11:46 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Detonation
Yo Team;
I thought this thread might be one that could
save some heartache down
the road: Detonation!
Can those of you who
experienced it post back on your recollection of
the symptoms in all of their
subtlty, so others who run into it, can
take action to forstall meltdowns
(set your boost down, EGT probes, run
race gas, try a water injector,
etc).
For example, when it occurrs does the knock sensor shut things
down, or
does the event in it's low threshold seem more like a miss that
you
accelerate through? Apparently there are degrees of detonation (minor
to
major), but even short duration is not good, so recogniton of it
via
postings here, may save some modified engines in the
future.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:50:52 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Detonation
Here's the kicker. More often than not you cannot really
tell if your
engine is detonating by sound alone, although some are better at
it than
others. Sometimes you can here it as an audible ping or
rattle. Frankly, I
have a hard time detecting it unless it goes on for
a long time.
What to watch:
- - EGT's will rise sharply.
This is due primarily to the ECU retarding
ignition to the point where the
charge is literally burning in the exhaust
manifold rather than in the
combustion chamber as would be under more
optimal timing.
- - Power
will drop off which can be felt. It just won't have the same oomph
you
normally come to expect. This will typically be felt up top - the
car
just seems to run out of steam as the revs climb - but can be noticed
lower
down too, especially say on a long grade with the engine under load in
a
higher gear.
- - Fuel economy goes down the shitter. Less
power is being produced for the
amount of fuel burned.
Since the ECU
does a very good job at managing timing, the best thing to do
is always burn
fuel appropriate for the boost you run. This is not always
practical if
you are wanting to run high boost levels (18+ psi).
15-16 psi is the
maximum amount of boost that can be run for any length of
time on 92 pump
without causing the KS to trigger retarded timing. You can
run higher
boost for shorter bursts but it can be risky. This may cause
an
argument from some who regularly run high boost on less than perfect
fuels
but I think a number of those people have also experienced engine
failures
(myself included) at one point or another. The oint is not
that the engine
hasn't blown up yet but is the ECU detecting knock and
compensating. If it
is the latter, optimal power is not being produced
and the problem exists
even if it is being addressed (temporarily) by the
ECU. I am thoroughly
convinced this is the case for those who
successfully run high boost on the
strip on less than 116 octane fuel.
It works for a time, but the problem is
still there.
The math works
out to 116 octane for 21 psi in our engines with 8:1
compression.
Retarded timing as introduced by the ECU can offset this, as
can excessiverly
rich mixtures. Both of those appraoches reduce power
output though and
are therefore undesirable.
Detonation is a rather normal occurence.
It becomes a problem when it
exceeds acceptable levels (sorry, can't recall
what that is right now and it
varies depending upon engine design anyway) and
becomes a definite threat to
the engine, which can be very rapidly destroyed
if gone unchecked. As an
aside, a certain number of misfires are
considered normal as well. Too many
in a certain period of time will
cause crappy performance and lead to early
death of cats (not the feline
persuasion). Some ECUs detect misfires and
toss codes if that threshold
is exceeded. Same with knock.
That got long.
=)
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> Yo Team;
>
> I thought this thread might be one
that could save some heartache down
> the road:
Detonation!
>
> Can those of you who experienced it post back on
your recollection of
> the symptoms in all of their subtlty, so others who
run into it, can
> take action to forstall meltdowns (set your boost down,
EGT probes, run
> race gas, try a water injector, etc).
>
>
For example, when it occurrs does the knock sensor shut things down, or
>
does the event in it's low threshold seem more like a miss that you
>
accelerate through? Apparently there are degrees of detonation (minor to
>
major), but even short duration is not good, so recogniton of it via
>
postings here, may save some modified engines in the future.
>
>
Best
>
> Darc
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:38:54 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel pressure
In a message dated 1/28/99 9:34:45 AM Eastern Standard
Time, vr4@bahnhof.se
writes:
<< Are
our fuel pressure the same all the time or does the pressure increase
if
boost and RPM change? >>
Changes
<< If pressure
changes, what is it that controlls it's function?>>
The fuel
pressure regulator
<<What's the stock fuel pressure
on a VR-4?>>
Idle: 38psi
0-Vac: 43psi
<< How
high pressure shall be used with 15G turbos? (560 injectors)
>>
Depends on how much boost you run.. low-mid 50's usually with
the stock fuel
pressure regulator under boost.
TTYLater,
Mike
Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.4 Best mph: 122
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 00:13:21 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
Dave part
of what you are experiencing is a
produst of four wheel independent
suspension. One
of your replies mentioned a Supra, which I also
owned and
had the same experience. In a deeply
rutted lane, each tire is trying to find
it's own
track and since it is independantly sprung it will
tend to want
to climb to it's own track path. Your
problem is accentuated by the alignment
issue,
where your camber is different for every wheel,
some negative and
some positive. On rough or
rutted roads the wheels are 'pointed'
slightly
different and still seeking their own tracking. My
car is set up
dead on and it still pulls on
pavement transitions. I can't say that
your
alignment guy is bad, but my suspeneion mechanic
would have modified
the strut mounting to get
enough adjustment. He had to do this on my
Supra
when we changed shocks.
I would still see if there is further damage
in
the suspension considering that you replaced some
parts already. But I
doubt your frame is really
bent. I don't know where you live, but my guy
does
race cars and really expensive stuff for 5 states
around Cincinnati.
He may know of someone in your
area that does similar work. Also, your tires
are
not helping this situation. The compound has
hardened, the side walls
are weaker now, and they
are probably adding to the issue.
Ron
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:25:01 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Detonation
EGT's should be around 900 degrees C in the top of third or
into fourth.
THis is with the probe located directly in the exhaust
manifold. Higher
egt's will risk piston melt down. It happens
fairly sudden and most likly
the motor will die and lock up. I've seen
up to 1000 degrees on my egt
meter with stock pistons but only for a
second.
Matt
- -----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
To: Team3S
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, January 28, 1999 9:15 PM
Subject: Team3S:
Detonation
>Yo Team;
>
>I thought this thread might be
one that could save some heartache down
>the road:
Detonation!
>
>Can those of you who experienced it post back on your
recollection of
>the symptoms in all of their subtlty, so others who run
into it, can
>take action to forstall meltdowns (set your boost down, EGT
probes, run
>race gas, try a water injector, etc).
>
>For
example, when it occurrs does the knock sensor shut things down, or
>does
the event in it's low threshold seem more like a miss that you
>accelerate
through? Apparently there are degrees of detonation (minor to
>major), but
even short duration is not good, so recogniton of it via
>postings here,
may save some modified engines in the
future.
>
>Best
>
>Darc
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:05:47 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost gauge installation
Hey everyone,
I'm still working
on getting my boost gauge installed. I tested it with the
T connector
attached and it showed about 14 pounds on the vaccum side during
idle.
I also had no problem running the tube through the firewall (thanks
to
Roger's great webpage). I'm now working on hooking up the light to
the
gauge. What fuse do I need to tap into?? I can't find the
fuse for the
dash lights. What is it marked as? Or is there a
better and easier way
than going to the fuse box. I also ran the tube
and wires along the side of
the dash, but I really couldn't get the wires
100% covered up. Can someone
tell me where all the bolts are that hold
this area of the dash up.
Thanks in advance,
Curt G
95 R/T
TT
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:14:14 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Headlamps
Alright, it looks like they may fit. Like i said,
They made a BIG
difference on my Starions. I would highly recomend these over
the HID
imitations.
At 07:49 PM 1/28/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>
>For Everyone who wants to update your
headlamps
>Dear Mr. Stump
>
>To the best of our knowledge
the 200mm H4 headlamps should fit into your
>Dodge Stealth/Mitsu 3000
(91-93).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:22:12 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Boost gauge installation
Pop out the dashboard dimmer switch
assembly. Find the ground and the hot
connections and tap into those
wires. Not only is this easier but you get
the benefits of having the
gauge's lamp dim with the dimmer like the rest of
your dash board
lights. I cannot recall which lead is which but this can be
easily
verified before reassembly.
If you wanted you could still run a line to
the fuse panel or use an inline
fuse for the gauge. The lamps fuse is
down there somewhere...can't recall
offhand exactly whch one but frankly I
wouldn't worry about it too much. I
run mine directly from the dimmer
as do a few others.
As to the wires and tube, you can usually get them to
fit beneath the A
pillar cover by gently lifting the edge of the cover up and
pressing the
wires and line underneath. There is enough room beneath
the cover to
accomodate them. The cover need not be actually removed
but can be if you
need to. It is held on by several clips with screws
which can be seen if
you gently lift along the edges. Lifting too hard
will likely damage or
distort the
cover.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> Hey everyone,
>
> I'm still working on getting
my boost gauge installed. I tested
> it with the
> T connector
attached and it showed about 14 pounds on the vaccum
> side during
>
idle. I also had no problem running the tube through the firewall
(thanks
> to Roger's great webpage). I'm now working on hooking up
the light to the
> gauge. What fuse do I need to tap into?? I
can't find the fuse for the
> dash lights. What is it marked
as? Or is there a better and easier way
> than going to the fuse
box. I also ran the tube and wires along
> the side of
> the
dash, but I really couldn't get the wires 100% covered up.
> Can
someone
> tell me where all the bolts are that hold this area of the dash
up.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Curt G
> 95 R/T TT
>
Check out: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 07:40:46 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
WANTED: 1993 or earlier TT cams
Howdy all.
I would like to
procure camshafts from a 91-93 3K/S TT. It matters not if
they come
from a Stealth or VR4, just as long as they are 91 through 93. If
you
have a complete set that you'd like to unload please contact me directly
via
private email.
Donations enthusiastically accepted
=)
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:53:28 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: WANTED: 1993 or earlier TT cams
Actually, only the 91
and 92 cams have slightly higher lift. On 93 and up,
they changed it by
something like .005".
- -Bob
> I would like to procure
camshafts from a 91-93 3K/S TT. It matters not if
> they come from a
Stealth or VR4, just as long as they are 91
> through 93. If you
have a complete set that you'd like to unload please
contact
> me
directly via private email.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 08:01:41 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
WANTED: 1993 or earlier TT cams
You are right. Thanks for the
correction.
91-92 cams are wahat I am interested
in.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Actually, only the 91 and 92 cams have slightly
higher lift. On
> 93 and up,
> they changed it by something
like .005".
>
> -Bob
>
> > I would like to procure
camshafts from a 91-93 3K/S TT. It
> matters not if
> >
they come from a Stealth or VR4, just as long as they are 91
> >
through 93. If you have a complete set that you'd like to unload
please
> contact
> > me directly via private email.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:58:38 -0600
From: Scott J Cowan <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Transfer Case Woes
Hello to all:
Well, the bug has bitten
me. I recently switched to Redline Shockproof
Heavy and was feeling
good about life, and then I noticed drops of it on
the floor of my
garage. This of course is after the dealer changed the
seal and stopped
it from leaking before, prior to Redline introduction.
The dealer wants
$1,590 to replace this ($78 of it is labor). Tall. Mist
has it for
$1,264, but that's still much more than I can afford.
The only good news,
if there is any, is that it is the larger version of
our tiny transfer
cases. So I need part #MR165234. CAn anyone help?
Thanks, and
regards,
Scott
'92
VR4
106K
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------------------------------
End
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