--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #85
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Thursday, January 28 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
085
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:25:42 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
Thanks
Wayne;
When I posted my summary on Getrag, I could not find another past
posting that I
remembered wherein it was indicated a US firm was making
these, and if I remember
correctly, transfer case replacements as well. True?
or No? ......For the Getrag record
and people researching
it.
Thanks
Darc
Wayne wrote:
> At 09:01 PM
1/26/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >Hey Kevin;
> > I believe someone
else posted to group
> >awhile back
> >indicating another
maker in the USA was producing aftermarket as well. Maybe
> >if
they're
> >listening they could post back.
>
> Yes, i am
listening. The place you need to contact if you want one is East
> street
auto.
> Phone; 901-774-5374
> Talk to Jim and please tell him
i told you about this deal.
> I believe he is getting $400 for each
piece.
> Later
>
> Wayne
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:38:29 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Advice needed on boost gauge installation
The hose at the plenum (intake
manifold) which senses manifold pressure for
the fuel pressure regulator sees
boost and vaccuum. That is the correct
place to tap in for a boost
gauge since that is what the engine is actually
seeing and is typically what
the user would expect to see also.
Monitoring before the TB will show
boost but not anything below atmosphere
and also will show boost when the
engine is not actually under boost.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> Curt,
> In addition to what everyone is
telling you, you must also
> consider weather
> or not you want to
monitor vaccum. Not all hoses under the hood 'see'
> vacum.(only the ones
downstream of the throttle plate) Remove hoses one at
> a time while the
engine is idling until you find one that is sucking air,
> then tie into
that one.
>
> Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:48:02 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
He (Jim) is
having the output shafts and x-fer case mating female part
(whatever it's
called) made in both spline sizes. He is not sure what
material is being
used. I've seen the finished part and it looks pretty
good as far as
manufact. quality goes. I just recently posted this info,
thats probably why
you didnt find it when you were looking. Hope this helps
Wayne
At
07:25 AM 1/27/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Thanks Wayne;
>
>When I
posted my summary on Getrag, I could not find another past posting
>that
I
>remembered wherein it was indicated a US firm was making these, and if
I
>remember
>correctly, transfer case replacements as well. True?
or No? ......For the
>Getrag record
>and people researching
it.
>
>Thanks
>
>Darc
>>
>> Yes, i am
listening. The place you need to contact if you want one is East
>>
street auto.
>> Phone; 901-774-5374
>> Talk to Jim and
please tell him i told you about this deal.
>> I believe he is getting
$400 for each piece.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:52:30 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
> At
least one aftermarket maker of the output shaft (Italian) is now available (see
the
> Summation on Getrag posting)
> another maker in USA was
producing aftermarket.
The company that makes the transaxle's VCU
(Viscous Coupling Unit) for
Getrag (it IS subcontracted out) is in Italy and
is called "GKN". The
output shaft connects directly to the VCU, and may
be made by GKN
also...
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:58:57 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
Output
shafts from transaxle:
> US firm was making these, and if I
remember
> correctly, transfer case replacements as well.the Getrag
record
> and people researching it.
> Darc
Found
it...
Kormex Trans Parts, ask for Frank Martin 1800-429-5464. He says
they
have both small and large shafts, heat treated to Rockwell 60C (!).
"Tell him I sent you there", we have had conversations...
:)
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 12:10:18 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: 4WD
AWD
Hey a while back someone posted a really good document comparing
the
differences between awd and 4wd. Does anyone happen to know this
link?
Xannieria
3SI #130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:17:13 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
EGT Temperatures
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
> >
retarded timing: not enough octane for boost
> >
-->detonating-->knock sensor-->ignition timing retarding; gas
>
> still burning/BLOWTORCHING into exhaust manifold. Use
> >
higher octane gas. seen drop 100F using race gas 114 octane
>
water injection as fix? WI
> might be solution It may make things
last longer; distilled water
> for less corrosive. Thoughts?
>
Darc
Water injection done properly could help somewhat I think.
Would be a
hassle to actually do it but could help. Unsure how MUCH,
how much more
boost could run with same octane. The company making the
quality unit
isn't at all specific about that either, I corresponded with
them months
back.
Jack T.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:30:33 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject:
Team3S: GT-Alley part
GT-Alley had a part that was supposed to convert
the pop-ups to a
projector setup. Has anyone seen this part or know how
I can get it now
that GT-Alley is out of business? Can I custom fab
something like this
inexpensively? GT-Alley wanted like $2000 for the
part. But I know
that it is possible. A setup like that might
drop a few lbs. off the
car from the motors, etc.
- --
Andrew
Brilliant
Senior Progammer/Team Council
Internet Database Development
Team
Attitude Ink, Inc.
http://www.attitudeink.com/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 3 Feb 1999 12:35:12 -0500
From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: GT-Alley part
>GT-Alley had a part that was supposed to
convert the pop-ups to a
>projector setup. Has anyone seen this part
or know how I can get it now
>that GT-Alley is out of business?
GT
Alley is out of business? I've been off the lists for several months so I
am
a bit behind the times here.
What happened? Why did he go out of
business?
What is he doing now? Does he still have the
3000GT?
Robyn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:55:54 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: GT-Alley part
Robyn;
The sordid details are in the
archives. Go there to get up to
speed..
Best
Darc
>
>
> GT Alley is out
of business? I've been off the lists for several months so I
> am a bit
behind the times here.
>
> What happened? Why did he go out of
business?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:33:35 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: '95 R/T TT mods (hp contest)
I know that this message was
sent to the list in err, but since it was
posted...
Oskar
wrote:
>
> I am looking for the next hp mod, which in my case will
be a boost
> controller. I'm having a hard time deciding on
exhaust. There are so many
> different theories out there regarding
the value of upgrading the stock
> exhaust. I know Jim M. is of the
belief that this does not make a
> difference. So, now that I see
what mods you've got I must ask your
> opinion. Do you see an
improvement compared to stock? Do you think that
> cat-back alone
will matter?
Just to clarify, my position on aftermarket exhaust
is:
a) an aftermarket exhaust won't make a heck of a lot of difference
when
running 1.1 bar or less of boost
b) significant performance
improvements from an aftermarket exhaust
system can really only be realized
when the ENTIRE system is replaced
from the turbos back
> Maybe
you will know more after comparing to Jim's car on the dyno!
It should be
very revealing and I plan to post the results early next
week. But
considering recent threads on this list and Mike's recent EGT
readings, it
would seem that money would be better spent on fuel
delivery upgrades rather
than a cat-back exhaust system.
-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 21:22:19 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: stumbling problem (was: Advice needed on boost gauge
installation)
"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> The hose at the
plenum (intake manifold) which senses manifold pressure for
> the fuel
pressure regulator sees boost and vaccuum. That is the correct
>
place to tap in for a boost gauge since that is what the engine is
actually
> seeing and is typically what the user would expect to see
also.
My '94 TT developed an annoying stumbing problem immediately
after
installation of the Blitz BOV that may be related to the above.
At the
moment I prefer the stumble to the hoot, but I'd rather have a car
that
doesn't hoot OR stumble, as this distracts me from my heat
shield
resonating and my lifters ticking! :-|
Description of the
behavior: If I accelerate and then lift off of the
throttle completely, about
one second later, the car will stumble
momentarily (ie- it bucks slightly,
more noticable in lower gears of
course). If I accelerate and then push
in the clutch as I lift the
throttle, about one second later the RPMs will
drop WAY down (250 rpm?)
momentarily and then come back up to normal
idle. If I downshift to
bring the RPMs up, there is no stumble.
If I give it just a tad of gas,
staying out of the boost, then it usually
does not stumble when I lift
off.
So, I figure the problem must be
either the vacuum lines or the intake
hoses.
The Blitz BOV hose is now
hooked into the front fitting on the intake
plenum along with the stock BOV
hose and the SAVC-R solonoid hose. I
assume that the fuel pressure
regulator's manifold pressure hose is
attached to the rear plenum fitting,
but is all of the hose now hanging
off the front fitting somehow causing a
fuel delivery problem under the
conditions described above? Too much
air, not enough fuel...
Or, is it more likely that the Blitz BOV is
venting too much of the
intake under the conditions descrived above?
Too much fuel, not enough
air...
Or, is it more likely something
else?
TIA for any suggestions you might have!
-Jim
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:59:10 -0500
From: "Nexus Motorsports" <nexus@alleyesonme.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Magazine articles in relation to advertising income
This is a
multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_006C_01BE4A16.5BB6DFC0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Hi gang,
I just signed up for the list about a week
ago. I had about 10 minutes =
worth of free lunch time today (very rare
these days!) and I was surfing =
through the archives section. One
thing I found interesting is a thread =
on magazine articles in relation to
advertising income. One of the =
import industries first magazine is
often cited in the thread and there =
is a good reason why (no names
mentioned, but you know what mag I'm =
talking about). I don't know if
anyone ever brought up the real answer, =
but here is the word from some
people in the know: Many of the editors =
and writers of this magazine are
either frat brothers or just went to =
college with the big players of some
major manufactures they push. =
Another editor of that magazine owns a
fabrication business who's =
business name you see in almost every
issue. Next time you pick up a =
copy of the magazine, skim through the
articles and you can consistently =
see the name of one tuning shop, one
fabrication shop, and one of the =
"big four" manufactures that they
push. Every single month. Every once =
in awhile, you'll see one
of those cheesy articles that seems to do =
nothing but act as a press
release for the company's product. These are =
the odd ball companies
that the magazine editors really have no ties to. =
Chances are, they
are threatening to pull their ads! This industry =
basically started
out in one city, so everyone knows everyone else. I =
give credit to
all the successful shops and individual racers out there =
(especially in the
mid west and on the east coast) that don't have the =
big ads or background
ties to Cali. Chances are, they made it on their =
own merit and not
with their "connections". =20
Just wanted to let you guys know to
be careful out there. =20
Chien=20
-
------=_NextPart_000_006C_01BE4A16.5BB6DFC0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT
size=3D3>Hi
gang,</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT><FONT
size=3D3>I =
just signed=20
up for the list about a week ago.
I had about 10 minutes worth of =
free=20
lunch time today (very rare
these days!) and I was surfing through the
=
archives=20
section. One thing I found interesting is a thread
on magazine =
articles in=20
relation to advertising income. One
of the import industries first =
magazine is often cited in the thread
and there is a good reason why (no =
names=20
mentioned, but you know what
mag I'm talking about). I don't know =
if=20
anyone ever brought
up the real answer, but here is the word from some =
people in=20
the
know: Many of the editors and writers of this magazine are either
=
frat=20
brothers or just went to college with the big players of some
major =
manufactures=20
they push. Another editor of that
magazine owns a fabrication =
business=20
who's business name you see in
almost every issue. Next time you =
pick up a=20
copy of the
magazine, skim through the articles and you can consistently =
see
the=20
name of one tuning shop, one fabrication shop, and one of the
"big=20
four" manufactures that they push. Every
single month. =
Every=20
once in awhile, you'll see one of those
cheesy articles that seems to do =
nothing=20
but act as a press release
for the company's product. These are =
the odd=20
ball companies
that the magazine editors really have no ties to.
=
Chances=20
are, they are threatening to pull their ads! This
industry =
basically=20
started out in one city, so everyone knows
everyone else. I give =
credit to=20
all the successful shops
and individual racers out there (especially in =
the mid=20
west and on
the east coast) that don't have the big ads or background =
ties
to=20
Cali. Chances are, they made it on their own merit and not
with
=
their=20
"connections".
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3>Just wanted to let
you guys know to be careful
out=20
there.
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D""
size=3D3></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Chien
=
<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_006C_01BE4A16.5BB6DFC0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:01:07 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Plug
Gap Theories
There has been some reference to potential HP gains by
reducing plug gap.
The only reason to reduce plug gap is if your engine is
missing out at high
boost/rpm. Best performance will occur with the
largest gap you can run and
still maintain a spark. The tricky part is
when you start to push boost, it
makes it harder for your stock ignition to
cross the plug gap. If this is
happening, you will notice it as an
engine miss. If your engine is not
missing out at high rpm, than
changing the gap won't make any
difference.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:18:22 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
(my apologies
if this is a double post. I didn't see it come up on
the list, and
assumed the first try got black-holed because my
address wasn't set
correctly.)
Greetings,
First off, let me say.... THANK
YOU! I signed up for the "other"
lists several months ago, and have had
to wade through 99%
crap to find the occasional nugget of useful
knowledge. This
list is all I ever wanted in trying to obtain info on
my VR4!
I have been lurking on this list for a little over a month
now,
and decided it is finally time to speak up. I have a stock 91
VR4
with 107K on it (although only 45K on the engine). I have
three
questions that hopefully aren't too lame for this list.
Q1: As
far as I can tell, the previous owner probably smacked the
right rear
lightly, probably hiting a curb. I have replaced the
stub axle and the
rotor on that corner. The problem now is that
it won't align
properly. Apparently, the right rear is at it's
max adjustment and is
still out of spec. The measurements are:
FL -.7 Camber FR
-.3
3.7
Caster
3.9
-.1
Toe -.02
RL
-1.2 Camber RR
-.9
.09
Toe -.50
The alignment guy told
me to go to a body shop and have it lightly
pulled (where the control arm
mounts?), and then he'd try again.
So here's the question: Is he
missing anything on the 4WS that
needs to be disconnected to take accurate
measurements? I do trust
the shop (and him), so I'm inclined to believe
his recommendation.
btw, the reason for all of this is that the steering
on the car is
extremely jumpy on uneven and rough road. It does have
Michelin
MS300 all seasons that are pretty worn (and a little uneven) but
I
can't attribute all of the steering problems to them. The
really
strange thing is that it's not as bad when the back end is
loaded
with weight. ie. full gas tank and stuff in the cargo
area. The
really really strange thing is that the behaviour isn't
consistant.
It never actually goes away, but it manifests itself in a
varying
amount of "jumpiness". This last bit makes me wonder if
whatever
controls the rear steering is not operating properly.
I
haven't been able to get the car on a rack to check if anything
is out of
whack, but the guy from from the body shop said he could
visually see that
the wheel wasn't tracking straight (4WS aside). I
have been under it,
and nothing appears to be bent or damaged, but
I doubt I have the critical
eye for this type of diagnosis.
any specific suggestions on what to ask
or request?
Q2: I had a main cat gasket blow out, and took it to a
local exhaust
place to replace it. (The bolts were frozen and I wasn't
about to
break one trying to do it myself.) While I was there I asked
about
a custom replacement, and the guy said I could do it really
cheaply
if I only replaced the pipes from the Y to the tips. The
question:
does replacing the section between the cat and the Y matter
that
much? In other words, what does a cat back system like the
Borla
gain you over a minimal custom replacement as I
suggested?
Q3: I noticed a few people recommending using a
motor flush as part
of a process to eliminated lifter ticking. I have
used Gunk motor
flush many times in the past (on other cars), but stopped
after I
heard that it would do bad things to internal seals. Any
truth
or rebuttle to this?
Thanks for allowing me to
ramble.. Sorry for the long post..
Dave
91 VR4
(eagerly
awaiting an AAM filter kit!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:01:00 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: motor flush
Dave wrote:
big snip
>
Q3: I noticed a few people recommending using a motor flush as
part
> of a process to eliminated lifter ticking. I have used Gunk
motor
> flush many times in the past (on other cars), but stopped after
I
> heard that it would do bad things to internal seals. Any
truth
> or rebuttle to this?
I'm sure you'll get ample feedback on
the other queries, so I'll limit my response to
this: Gunk worked well for
me...took out the tick...and I'll likely use it if required
again. I expect
this will not have to occur for some time. Using it on regular basis
(like at
every oil change) may in fact cause seal problems. The problem with
the
necessity for such a repeated flush scenario is that the interval between
changes is
probably way too long, or the oil is not synthetic and is baking
under high temps (be
sure and allow idle for a couple of minutes before
shutdown). Use synthetic, change it
often, and do not shut down immediately
upon reaching your parking spot..
FWIW , it would better serve the list
and the archives if you post questions separate,
under separate subject
headers.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:35:36 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Synchros
I got a reply from Hurst Shifters today about the synchros. The
message said
they don't have any tranny parts. That is all the message said,
so I guess
they don't know anyone who does have tranny
parts.
Fooey.
Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:35:39 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions... synchros?
In a message dated
99-01-27 12:01:05 EST, you write:
<< Found it...
Kormex
Trans Parts, ask for Frank Martin 1800-429-5464. He says
they
have both small and large shafts, heat treated to Rockwell 60C
(!).
"Tell him I sent you there", we have had conversations...
:)
Jack Tertadian >>
Jack,
You have
probably already checked into this, but... can Kormex Trans Parts
make
synchros?
Wayne, same question for East Street Auto?
Paul
Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:35:40 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Synchros
I just sent a message to Vernon Naidoo about BRE Engines tranny
mod. (See post
by josesini@engin.u...
on 01/26) I asked him to advise if BRE could rebuild a
tranny with worn
synchros for an AWD 3000GT/Stealth.
It sounds like BRE is doing something
to the AWD tranny on the Eclipse/Talon
to improve shifting. I'm
thinking they MIGHT be doing something to the
synchros - modifying them,
substituting from another car, making new ones,
etc.
...which brings
up a question: does Getrag make tranny components for the
Eclipse/Talon as
well as our cars? Just wondering.
Paul Klusman
p.s. thanks Jose
for the info on BRE!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:13:00 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Synchros
Hey Paul;
You have your nose to ground on this
one...no scent goes undetected!!
Thanks from all of us in
advance, for the solution to our problem which you are bound
and determined
to find ;-) Gotta love ya for it! BTW the Hurst response likely
doesn't
mean anything more than some half wit responding on their behalf who
will not, or does
not, think of referral as an North American business
praxes. I slipped "North" in there,
couldn't resist.
:-)
Best
Darc
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
> I got a
reply from Hurst Shifters today about the synchros. The message said
>
they don't have any tranny parts. That is all the message said, so I
guess
> they don't know anyone who does have tranny parts.
>
>
Fooey.
>
> Paul Klusman
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:17:00 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Questions: custom exhaust
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dave [mailto:monarchd+team3s@colorado.edu]
Sent:
Wednesday, January 27, 1999 3:18 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
<snip>
Q2: I
had a main cat gasket blow out, and took it to a local exhaust
place to
replace it. (The bolts were frozen and I wasn't about to
break one
trying to do it myself.) While I was there I asked about
a custom
replacement, and the guy said I could do it really cheaply
if I only replaced
the pipes from the Y to the tips. The question:
does replacing the
section between the cat and the Y matter that
much? In other words,
what does a cat back system like the Borla
gain you over a minimal custom
replacement as I suggested?
<end of
snip>
===============================
Dave...
re: Q2: I believe
the catback exhaust netted me very little hp gain. Borla
and GReddy make
claims of 10%, which is unlikely. There was a noticeable
improvement in
several areas when I replaced the downpipe and removed the
cat (for off road
use). However, this was "seat of the pants" measurement.
We have three owners
in Europe who are going to an all wheel dyno soon. One
does not have exhaust
mods, two have complete exhaust mods. It will be VERY
interesting to see the
results. Think of it in terms of the hose analogy. If
you increase the
pressure on the front end, you're limited to the flow of
the smallest
diameter piece of hose, whether it's at the beginning, in the
middle, or at
the end. Personally, my advice is to do the whole system,
particularly if
you're planning on turbo mods at some point.
BTW...I'm with Darcy on his
response to the motor flush question (and his
suggestion to break your
questions into discrete posts).
Looking forward...Chris
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell
battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double
platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy
turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1"
drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:30:30 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
stumbling problem (was: Advice needed on boost gauge installation)
Hi
Jim,
I also have the Blitz BOV installed. My boost gauge taps into
the FPR line
as does my AVC-R. Actually, so does my MASC =) I
need to perform the Bob
Fontanna plenum multi-tap deal one of these
days.
Anyway, stuff interjected below.
> -----Original
Message-----
> My '94 TT developed an annoying stumbing problem
immediately after
> installation of the Blitz BOV that may be related to
the above. At the
> moment I prefer the stumble to the hoot, but I'd
rather have a car that
> doesn't hoot OR stumble, as this distracts me
from my heat shield
> resonating and my lifters ticking!
:-|
Absolutely. Have to hear those lifters ;)
>
Description of the behavior: If I accelerate and then lift off of the
>
throttle completely, about one second later, the car will stumble
>
momentarily (ie- it bucks slightly, more noticable in lower gears of
>
course). If I accelerate and then push in the clutch as I lift the
>
throttle, about one second later the RPMs will drop WAY down (250 rpm?)
>
momentarily and then come back up to normal idle. If I downshift
to
> bring the RPMs up, there is no stumble. If I give it just a tad
of gas,
> staying out of the boost, then it usually does not stumble when
I lift
> off.
>
> So, I figure the problem must be either the
vacuum lines or the intake
> hoses.
I would suspect pressure
bearing inlet hoses first. Vaccuum lines can cause
problems too but in
my experience the problems are a little less noticeable
unless severe, like
one completely falling off or cracked all the way
through. Small
pinholes cause more subtle problems IME.
> The Blitz BOV hose is now
hooked into the front fitting on the intake
> plenum along with the stock
BOV hose and the SAVC-R solonoid hose.
Double and triple check those
pesky hoses between the Blitz pipe, rubber
connectors and the stock bypass
valve. They can be deceptively snug and
still leak. Sometimes it
is difficult to see that they are crooked. Make
sure the hoses are
installed "straight on" as in not cocked at an angle and
that all clamps are
quite snug.
> I assume that the fuel pressure regulator's manifold
pressure hose is
> attached to the rear plenum fitting, but is all of the
hose now hanging
> off the front fitting somehow causing a fuel delivery
problem under the
> conditions described above? Too much air, not
enough fuel...
The FPR hose is on the rear of the plenum (on the engine
side of the TB) and
is easily distuinguishable since it runs back to the fire
wall to the FPR
(beside the stock boost solenoid). The hose at the
front of the plenum
should have a T in it now after the blitz
installation. The Blitz goes to
the front line which attaches to the
plenum and then off to its original
location. If this is not so then
perhaps that is the source of your
troubles.
> Or, is it more
likely that the Blitz BOV is venting too much of the
> intake under the
conditions descrived above? Too much fuel, not enough
>
air...
Possible I suppose but it would have to be backed way off were
that to be
the case. How is it adjusted now? You can try to
tighten it up by
loosening the lock nut and turning the adjustment screw
clockwise (down)
which will make it take more pressure before it blows
off. Don't turn it
too far though. The maximum adjustment is
somewhere where the screw sits
just ever so slightly above the lock
nut. Mine leaks a little above 18-20
PSI or so. There is a
stiffer spring available to remmedy this.
> Or, is it more likely
something else?
I would suggest that it has something to do with the
Blitz installation.
Recheck everything and see what shakes
out.
> TIA for any suggestions you might have!
Welcome as
always.
> -Jim
Regards,
Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:33:56 EST
From: Klusmanp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
In a message dated
99-01-27 18:20:13 EST, you write:
<<
btw, the reason for
all of this is that the steering on the car is
extremely jumpy on
uneven and rough road. It does have Michelin
MS300 all seasons
that are pretty worn (and a little uneven) but I
can't attribute all of
the steering problems to them. The really
strange thing is that
it's not as bad when the back end is loaded
with weight. ie. full
gas tank and stuff in the cargo area.
Dave, my '91 VR4 has very new
Michelin tires and was recently aligned. The car
tracks perfectly straight,
but I do notice some steering "jumpiness" as you
describe on worn pavement.
There is some construction in my area where new,
perfectly smooth and flat
pavement leads to older worn pavement. On the new
pavement, the car tracks
perfectly. As soon as I hit the old pavement, the car
wants to veer of to one
side or the other - I have to literaly hold the car on
centerline.
The worn pavement is so old you can actually see where years of traffic
has
created two grooves or low spots where the tires contact the road.
The
"jumpiness" gets worse with braking and less under acceleration. This
is
consistent with your observation of improved steering when the rear of the
car
is loaded.
I think it might have something to do with wide tires
wanting to crawl up the
side of the low spots in the pavement. It is
something I first noticed while
driving a Toyota Supra I used to own that
also had wide tires and gave the
same braking/acceleration responses as the
VR4.
Actually, the VR4 is a bit more jumpy than the Supra was during
steady state
driving (no accel/braking). I have a theory for this. Consider
that the AWD
transmission is supposed to deliver more power to the rear
wheels than the
front. During heavy acceleration there is no doubt that all 4
wheels are
pulling forward - 55% power to the rear wheels and 45% power to
the front (I
think those are the correct numbers). Under this condition the
steering is
stable. But let off the gas and the car wants to dart left or
right.
If the rear wheels are getting more power than the front, the
rear ones must
be continually trying to "outrun" the front wheels somehow (at
least that is
how my brain is trying to interpret this idea). I'm wondering
if the AWD drive
system might be causing the front wheels to RESIST forward
motion during low
power cruising - giving a similar steering response to
slight braking as far
as the front wheels are concerned. My gut tells me this
is nonsense, but...
hmmmm...
Of course the other thing is the fact
that the VR4 is much wider than the
Supra, placing the tires further towards
the outer edges of the grooves in the
worn pavement. THAT is probably the
real source of the handling difference
between the two cars.
Anyway,
once you do get your car straightened out, you may still have
difficulty
steering on worn pavement as I do - unless of course there is
something wrong
with my car as well. (Hope not!)
Paul Klusman
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 21:04:50 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
GT-Alley part
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/8889/body_kits.html
there's a
picture of a GTO with pop-ups that has replaced the sealed beam
with
projector lamps. I think it looks great, and if I had $700 to blow
on
headlights I'd do it.
I've attached an email I received from Henry
Yam about them, contact him if
you want more info.
Dennis
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
To:
Technical List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, January 27, 1999 12:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: GT-Alley
part
>GT-Alley had a part that was supposed to convert the pop-ups
to a
>projector setup. Has anyone seen this part or know how I can
get it now
>that GT-Alley is out of business? Can I custom fab
something like this
>inexpensively? GT-Alley wanted like $2000 for
the part. But I know
>that it is possible. A setup like that
might drop a few lbs. off the
>car from the motors,
etc.
>
>--
>Andrew Brilliant
>Senior Progammer/Team
Council
>Internet Database Development Team
>Attitude Ink,
Inc.
>http://www.attitudeink.com/
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998
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From: Batman <henryyam@acsu.buffalo.edu>
To:
Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Kazz Car
ZR3000 Question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.3.95.981207170132.31832C-100000@sherrill.kiva.net>
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c5195b399f98542c99dcb8dab00ad24e
Those headlight conversions are
available. I inquired about the pricing on
them and I was informed that they
would cost $730 for the Set of lights.
This is kinda reasonable. Considering
headlight conversion kits cost $100,
plus if you bought two sets of catz
lights at $250 each, it would come out
to around this pricing. Plus this
comes with all the necessary hardware.
I did find a product which allows you
to control how high your popup
lights come up from in the car. Sorta like an
electronic boost controller.
That price is roughly
$150.
________________________________________________________
Henry
Yam URL: www.geocities.com/motorcity/speedway/8889
RPM
Motorsports
217-85 98th Ave
Queens Village, NY 11428
(718)
740-3277
- ------=_NextPart_000_00A2_01BE4A38.ADA5C9A0--
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:26:37 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
Actually, the front
diff is slightly higher geared (lower numerically) than
the rear so that the
front end pulls the car along a wee bit. This is
common practice in 4WD
pickups also. It is done so that the rear end
doesn't want to swap ends
so easily.
AWD/4WD vehicles tend to want to wander a bit anyway.
Since the front
wheels are driving wheels they tend to pull up on
irregularities in the
road. This phenomenon is exacerbated by wide
tires.
Remember that the VR4 (and 3K/S in general) has a very pronounced
forward
weight bias which can make the car feel a little more excitable
under
certain situations. This is not a big deal though. I have
literally had my
car airborne at over 135 MPH (on a rather rough road with
many dips and
curves - my favorite local test road) without any nasty
behavior from the
car and that was with the stock suspension. I would
not do this on purpose
again nor suggest that anyone try it but the car
handles amazingly well for
what it is.
If the car is truly being
extremely jumpy then there may well be something
wrong with the
suspension.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> <<
> btw, the reason for all of this is
that the steering on the car is
> extremely jumpy on uneven and
rough road. It does have Michelin
> MS300 all seasons that are
pretty worn (and a little uneven) but I
> can't attribute all of the
steering problems to them. The really
> strange thing is that
it's not as bad when the back end is loaded
> with weight. ie.
full gas tank and stuff in the cargo area.
>
>>
<snipped>
> If the rear wheels are getting more
power than the front, the
> rear ones must
> be continually trying
to "outrun" the front wheels somehow (at
> least that is
> how my
brain is trying to interpret this idea). I'm wondering if
> the AWD
drive
> system might be causing the front wheels to RESIST forward
motion
> during low
> power cruising - giving a similar steering
response to slight
> braking as far
> as the front wheels are
concerned. My gut tells me this is
> nonsense, but...
>
hmmmm...
<snipped>
> Paul Klusman
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 22:35:46 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions... synchros?
Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
> Jack,
You have probably already checked into this, but... can Kormex Trans Parts make
synchros?
Nope :(
Jack T.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 23:45:51 -0500
From: "Marc Spinale" <mspinale@mediaone.net>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Onto the 4th transmission?
My 93 3kgt VR4 is now on it's
third transmission. Thankfully,
the warranty covered it once again.
This time, the trans is
making noise as the car idles in neutral. The
sound could almost
be mistaken for an internal engine problem (thankfully,
it's not!
:) The noise does stop eventually after depressing the
clutch.
Pulling back the throw-out bearing by hand has not effect --
it's
inside alright...
The previous tranies never had this
problem and this rebuilt unit
has made some noise from day one.
The
dealer said that they all do that. The last two did not! Has
anyone
heard of this problem? Does it sound like something to
worry
about?
I'm trying to get Mitsu to consider one more swap. So far, since
it works, I think they're not going to go for it.
- -Marc
Spinale
BTW: In case your wondering about the strength of the last
two
transmissions -- that was never the problem. The problem(s) were
related to shifting. From 2nd to 3rd was difficult in the
original
tranny and from 1st to 2nd was an issue on unit #2. It
was a problem
from the time the car left the garage!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 22:04:34 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
RE: Onto the 4th transmission?
They "don't all do that". That's a
dealer cop out for either not knowing
what the problem is or not wanting to
fix it.
It could be a number of things. Debris left over in the
bell housing from a
previous clutch, a failing clutch, a bad machining job on
the flywheel,
marginal throwout bearing and possibly even
maladjustment. I have assumed
that it is not the transmission itself
since sometimes it is not easy to
tell. If it IS the transmission then
something just isn't right and that
would likely mean replacing it.
So
who knows for sure without having someone competent check it out.
Sadly
it sounds like your dealer isn't interested. I've heard that
story several
times on different items. In only one case was the
problem found and that
was after I pressed hard. Even then they missed
fully resolving the problem
(cracked engine mounts) because they missed one
and the problem wasn't
totally resolved until I discovered it myself.
Any turbo related problems
you may as well do it yourself as in my experience
(4 for 4 dealers so far)
they are clueless as to their workings.
I'd
be inclined to drive it for a while and bug them again if it doesn't go
away
as the (presumably) remanufactured unit wears in.
Maybe I am in the wrong
city for Mitsu deals ;) Hopefully you will have
better
luck.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> My 93 3kgt VR4 is now on it's third transmission.
Thankfully,
> the warranty covered it once again. This time, the trans
is
> making noise as the car idles in neutral. The sound could
almost
> be mistaken for an internal engine problem (thankfully, it's
not!
> :) The noise does stop eventually after depressing the
clutch.
> Pulling back the throw-out bearing by hand has not effect --
it's
> inside alright...
>
> The previous tranies never had
this problem and this rebuilt unit
> has made some noise from day
one.
>
> The dealer said that they all do that. The last two did
not! Has
> anyone heard of this problem? Does it sound like
something to
> worry about?
> I'm trying to get Mitsu to consider
one more swap. So far, since
> it works, I think they're not going
to go for it.
>
> -Marc Spinale
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 22:23:18 -0800
From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch/tranny problems...
** High Priority **
Hi
there...
New to the board, but I read some messages about clutch problems
that
caught my eye, and I figured I'd throw in my $.02....
I had a
Centerforce dual friction clutch installed 4 months ago, on
my 92 Stealth TT.
A few weeks ago, I noticed a squeaking noise under
the hood. It didn't sound
like it was a belt, so I took it to the
dealership and had them inspect it.
They determined that it was the
throwout bearing, although I can hear the
squeaking noise even when
in nuetral. Funny thing is, sometimes it is louder
than usual, and it
doesn't seem partial to a hot OR a cold engine.
Apart
from all that, I hear a chattering when the car is in nuetral,
but when I
disengage the clutch, it goes away. I took the car in to
the clutch shop I
had the Centerforce installed, and they pretty much
told me they don't hear
any problems at all. The chattering only
occurs when the car is
cold.
About the only thing I can think of that fits all these symptoms
is
that they milled the flywheel a little too much, or it has some
runout.
Unfortunately, I'm having a problem in getting someone to
diagnose and repair
the problem.
Any thoughts?
Dan J
92 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo,
Pearl White
HKS dual powerflow intake
Stock everything else!
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 00:30:04 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
"Barry E.
King" wrote:
> AWD/4WD vehicles tend to want to wander a bit
anyway. Since the front
> wheels are driving wheels they tend to
pull up on irregularities in the
> road. This phenomenon is
exacerbated by wide tires.
I'm assuming "pull" implies
acceleration. my problems occur more while
coasting or braking.
I agree that the tires are an issue, but I have driven
plenty of HUGE tired
vehicles including numerous 930's and a 94 VR4 that were
nowhere near this
bad.
> Remember that the VR4 (and 3K/S in general) has a very
pronounced forward
> weight bias which can make the car feel a little more
excitable under
> certain situations. This is not a big deal
though. I have literally had my
> car airborne at over 135 MPH (on a
rather rough road with many dips and
> curves - my favorite local test
road) without any nasty behavior from the
> car and that was with the
stock suspension. I would not do this on purpose
> again nor suggest
that anyone try it but the car handles amazingly well for
> what it
is.
yahoo! :)
> If the car is truly being extremely
jumpy then there may well be something
> wrong with the
suspension.
exactly what I'm trying to determine! :) I guess I'm
trying to find out what
might be damaged or malfunctioning to cause such
abnormal behaviour. I was
hoping someone would say "hey, I had the
same problem and it was the xxx part."
I also realize that there are a number
of variables to isolate.
I guess I'll give the body shop a try and
see what they can determine.
Thanks to everybody that
replied! It's wonderful to be part of such a helpful
group!
sorry about the original multiple question post. I know better
now.
Dave
91 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 00:55:26 -0700
From: Dave <monarchd+team3S@colorado.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: miniture bulbs for active-aero switch
I realize this is pretty
low-tech, but I thought I'd share some info that
Mitsubishi couldn't help me
with. I noticed that only one of the lights in
the active-aero switch
was coming on, and figured, no biggie, I'll get a few
bulbs at the
dealer. no dice. buy a new $50 switch to replace a $0.75 bulb.
ahem, does this scenario sound familiar? either that or the parts guy
here
doesn't have a clue.
solution: radio shack - part #
272-1092B contains 2 12V 60mA micro lamps that
aren't exact replacements
(they're a tad shorter) but they work just fine. you
only have to
unhook the old bulb from the plastic base and feed the new one in.
pretty
obvious when you look at it. I heard somebody refer to them as
"grain
of wheat" bulbs in case radio shack isn't in your area, maybe a
hardware store
will have them.
hope this is useful to
somebody..
Dave
91VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:50:43 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: stumbling problem with Blitz BOV
Hi
I really hate "me to"
posts but now I shall post one.
Me to!
I have the same problem,
idle goes down under 500 rpm when I use the clutch (no throttle). The engine
almost stalls and the headlight dim and then it picks rpm up to normal level
again.
I'm 100% sure that the problem is related to the Blitz BOV
becasue I didn't have this problem before I installed the BOV.
To me this
isn't a big problem. (compared to finding money to buy bigger turbos :) but I
would be glad if anyone came up with a solution.
/Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:58:30 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bought a T connector
Thanks to everyone that replied to my need
for help with connecting my boost
gauge. I bought a brass T connector
from Wal-Mart last night. It fits on
the rubber hoses in my car
perfectly. I'll probably do the complete install
of the gauge tonight
or this weekend. Then its time to think about that
boost
controller.
Thanks again
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:33:34 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
Fuel pressure
Hi
Are our fuel pressure the same all the time or
does the pressure increase if boost and RPM change?
If pressure changes,
what is it that controlls it's function?
What's the stock fuel pressure
on a VR-4?
How high pressure shall be used with 15G turbos? (560
injectors)
/Mikael (it's time for the next level)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 07:17:12 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Questions: 4WS, custom exhaust, motor flush
Hi
Dave;
Barry seems to have covered the gambit with his response/s,
however, excessive or
erratic wander, particularly with uneven pavement
(where similar vehicles do not) may
mean it's time to check your suspension
components ...bent tie rods, worn ball joints,
etc. Either of these could
cause something of the problem you note.
Best
Darc
Dave
wrote:
> "Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> > AWD/4WD vehicles
tend to want to wander a bit anyway. Since the front
> > wheels
are driving wheels they tend to pull up on irregularities in the
> >
road. This phenomenon is exacerbated by wide tires.
>
> I'm
assuming "pull" implies acceleration. my problems occur more while
>
coasting or braking. I agree that the tires are an issue, but I have
driven
> plenty of HUGE tired vehicles including numerous 930's and a 94
VR4 that were
> nowhere near this bad.
>
> > Remember that
the VR4 (and 3K/S in general) has a very pronounced forward
> > weight
bias which can make the car feel a little more excitable under
> >
certain situations. This is not a big deal though. I have literally
had my
> > car airborne at over 135 MPH (on a rather rough road with
many dips and
> > curves - my favorite local test road) without any
nasty behavior from the
> > car and that was with the stock
suspension. I would not do this on purpose
> > again nor suggest
that anyone try it but the car handles amazingly well for
> > what it
is.
>
> yahoo! :)
>
> > If the car is truly
being extremely jumpy then there may well be something
> > wrong with
the suspension.
>
> exactly what I'm trying to determine! :) I
guess I'm trying to find out what
> might be damaged or malfunctioning to
cause such abnormal behaviour. I was
> hoping someone would say
"hey, I had the same problem and it was the xxx part."
> I also realize
that there are a number of variables to isolate.
>
> I guess I'll
give the body shop a try and see what they can determine.
>
> Thanks
to everybody that replied! It's wonderful to be part of such a
helpful
> group!
>
> sorry about the original multiple
question post. I know better now.
>
> Dave
> 91
VR4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:30:18 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel pressure
The VR4 FPR is boost dependant. Actual fuel pressure
measured in the fuel
line before the injector changes with boost.
The
injectors require a differential pressure between the inlet and the
outlet
side of 36-45 PSI in order to operate correctly. That means the
fuel
pressure must be increased to compensate for each 1 PSI increase in
boost.
The stock FPR does this more or less but based on observation may top
out
too soon. Could be other factors though too like fuel line and even
the
fuel pump that ultimately limit what pressure can be
maintained.
The required fuel pressure is 36-45 psi plus 1 psi for every
psi of boost.
At 15 PSI manifold pressure you need 51-60 psi fuel pressure
*at the
injector*. You really don't need more pressure (than that
described by this
1 PSI for each PSI of boost) unless you are attmpting to
use fuel pressure
to adjust mixture. This can be done but it is
imprecise and not the desired
approach.
Note that this is regardless
of turbo or injector size. Pressure is one
thing, flow (capacity) is
something completely different and equally as
important as the
pressure.
Stock FP is around 43 psi at idle and 0 vac., 36 psi with a bit
of vacuum as
I recall.
15Gs and 560 injectors require a good sized
pump (280-320 lph). Furthermore
and at least as importantly that fuel
pump must be able to deliver the
required FLOW of fuel at the required LINE
pressure, not injector
differential pressure. Example, 90 gph @ 43 psi
is great for idling...hehe.
You need to know what that 90 gph pump can put
out at the required fuel
pressure for your desired boost level, which is more
like 56-60 PSI line
pressure. Most fuel pumps have a pressure
point at which they become less
efficient. Either pressure or flow will
need to drop at that point.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> Hi
>
> Are our fuel
pressure the same all the time or does the pressure
> increase if boost
and RPM change?
>
> If pressure changes, what is it that controlls
it's function?
>
> What's the stock fuel pressure on a
VR-4?
>
> How high pressure shall be used with 15G turbos? (560
injectors)
>
> /Mikael (it's time for the next level)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #85
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