--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #84
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Wednesday,
January 27 1999 Volume 01 : Number
084
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:24:20 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
POTHOLES!!!
The interstate system is controlled by the federal government
(at least
funds wise.)
Also negotiate with your insurance company to
take care of this claim under
your comprehensive coverage. This way
they do not count it as an accident
claim and it will have no impact on your
rates.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill Davis <b-davis@primary.net>
To: stealth@starnet.net <stealth@starnet.net>; stealth@dragnet.com
<stealth@dragnet.com>; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, January 25, 1999 8:24 AM
Subject: POTHOLES!!!
>Well
Saturday, around noon, I was driving I-40 Eastbound, in St. Louis,
>around
141 Mason Rd. area,(St. Louis guys know where), far left lane.
>I was
doing about 60, because the road was wet from the abnormal
>snow we had
that morning. I hit this series of potholes, almost lost
>control of my
car, damn near threw me into the next lane.
>
>All of a sudden my
ECS light starts flashing, I pull over to have a
>look.
>My left
front wheel, and tire are completely destroyed, my left
rear
>wheel
>is damaged, and apparently my left front strut is
damaged.
>
>I have called the highway dept. to find out if they will
pay to have the
>car
>repaired. Does anyone know anything about
these type of issues?
>On Saturday I called the St Louis Co. dept of
trans, and they told me
>if the road was one that they maintain, that they
do indeed pay for the
>damage.
>Unfortunately they dont maintain
I-40.
>
>Advice, information, on any similar experiences would be
much
>appreciated.
>
>If anyone has one 6 spoke 18"
chrome rim for sale, I suppose I may be
>in the
>market by this
afternoon. I have little faith in the state taking
>responsibility for
this.
>
>Bill Davis Lame 95 VR-4
>
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 07:23:48 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT Temperatures
Jack;
You wrote:
> This can be
two things...
> 1) too lean. Get rich. Buy bigger
injectors/an AFC. Or, sit tight,
> stare at wall, and keep repeating
"LEAN IS MEAN"...
> 2) very retarded timing: your gas hasn't enough
octane for the boost
> you are running-->you are detonating--> knock
sensor is doing the
> Cucaracha-->ignition timing retarding to stone
age, and some gas is
> still burning/BLOWTORCHING while shot into the
exhaust manifold. Use
> higher octane gas. I have seen a drop
of 100F anecdotally using race
> gas 114 octane, vs. crappy
"reformulated" (oxygenated with MTBE or
> Ethanol) gas peddled around my
area due to draconian and frequently
> anti-scientific environmental laws
which are making my environment way
> too clean for me to live
HAPPILY :)
>
Have you revisited water injection as a fix for
this? It seems that a good WI system
(Barry mentioned some months back) might
be a reasonable solution to a problem that is
not going away with bigger
injectors, better gas, new computers, bigger turbos, etc. It
just may make
things last a lot longer...using of course, "distilled" water
whenever
possible for less corrosive effects. Thoughts? Anyone out
there fitted their car with
one?
Best
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:09:37 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fog lights & Snakeyes
This message is for Mike, the guy who
is having problems with his snakeye mod.
I noticed somebody posted the
foglight mod as a remedy to you're problem
with the snakeye mod. The reason
i'm replying to this is because i am the
originator/creator of the foglight
mod. This modification was NOT intended
to be a "fix" for the snakeyes mod,
as i have not even seen the snake mod,
and i dont know which wires were
modified. If you would like further help
with getting your fog lights
working, send me a copy of the snake
instructions, and i will see if i can
provive some insight as to why it
causes the foglights to stop working, or if
my fog light mod will do it for
you.
Wayne
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 14:58:56 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Mitsu Engines and Clutches
Hello
all,
<< This site has remanufactured Mitsubishi engines with a 5
year 50,000 mile
warranty: http://www.quality-import-parts.com/mitsmain.htm>>
This is not meant to discredit Steve's post by any means ( I am
always for
sharing new information), but I have learned alot about 91-93
nonturbo engines
while rebuilding mine, and this company lists the
remanufactured engine for
$3500. A factory NEW engine can be had through West
Broad Mitsubishi (with the
list discounts) for about the same price, actually
about a hundred bucks less.
ANother thing that bothers me about the
advertisement is that they state
that they grind the crankshaft and use
aftermarket bearings - both are bad
ideas with the 6G72 engine,
IMO.
Again, I only mean to offer what I think is a better
option (new vs.
remanufactured) and hope to help others avoid the mistakes I
made.
SteveC
'91
3000GT SL
Lomcevak@aol.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:30:45 EST
From: Dskull@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Modification
Recommendations
Hi , I have been on this list for a short while and have
read every piece of
archived, web, vendor info I can find. I own a 93 VR4
with a K&N FIPK,
Magnacor wires, plugs gapped at 32, Blitz boost
controller running around
1.15 / 1.20 peak, GAB shocks, H&R springs, Road
Race rear tower bar,
slotted front rotors, PF 80 pads. I don't drag race it.
I DO road race it at
Pocono, Lime Rock, and Watkins Glen. If you were at this
point in mods what
would you do next for HP gains, keeping in mind that the
turbo's are almost
alway spooled up road racing. Would you go for fuel
management, or exhaust,
or turbo's, or injectors, or fuel pump, or
intercoolers, etc. Please include
why you would do a upgrade and in what
order. Sorry for the long post, but I
want to get the biggest bang (sic) for
the buck, without changing directions 5
times to get
there.
Dave Skultety - 1st corner near home is TURN 1
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 14:58:43 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Modification Recommendations
Do something with the brakes,
keep that thing off the wall.
How do you like the rear tower bar? Did it
help/make any noticeable
difference?
Check out the brake kit I put
together for my car on my web site.
(still very happy with them), no warps or
fading.
> Brad
Member of ESSC since 1999>
> Check out my
home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Dskull@aol.com
Sent:
Tuesday, January 26, 1999 2:31 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Modification Recommendations
Hi , I have been on this list for a
short while and have read every piece of
archived, web, vendor info I can
find. I own a 93 VR4 with a K&N FIPK,
Magnacor wires, plugs gapped at 32,
Blitz boost controller running around
1.15 / 1.20 peak, GAB shocks, H&R
springs, Road Race rear tower bar,
slotted front rotors, PF 80 pads. I don't
drag race it. I DO road race it at
Pocono, Lime Rock, and Watkins Glen. If
you were at this point in mods what
would you do next for HP gains, keeping
in mind that the turbo's are almost
alway spooled up road racing. Would you
go for fuel management, or exhaust,
or turbo's, or injectors, or fuel pump,
or intercoolers, etc. Please include
why you would do a upgrade and in what
order. Sorry for the long post, but I
want to get the biggest bang (sic) for
the buck, without changing directions
5
times to get
there.
Dave Skultety - 1st corner near home is TURN 1
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:08:49 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Modification Recommendations
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Dskull@aol.com [mailto:Dskull@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday,
January 26, 1999 12:31 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Modification Recommendations
<snip>
If you were at
this point in mods what
would you do next for HP gains, keeping in mind that
the turbo's are almost
alway spooled up road racing. Would you go for fuel
management, or exhaust,
or turbo's, or injectors, or fuel pump, or
intercoolers, etc. Please include
why you would do a upgrade and in what
order. <snip>
Dave Skultety - 1st corner near home is TURN
1
===================================
Dave...
1. Do the exhaust.
You're not coming close to realizing the potential of the
turbos with a stock
exhaust. Replace it all, from the precats back. Lengthy
discussions have been
had about various mfg versus custom. Probably personal
preference once you've
made the decision to open up the flow.
2. Larger turbos. BIG step and should
wait until the exhaust is done. BIG
why? Because the entire package (turbos,
fuel pump, injectors, intercoolers,
fuel management system) should really be
done at once, not a piece at a
time.
GOOD LUCK!!!
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:13:09 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Modification
Recommendations
I'd go for removing all 3 cats with a larger ATR downpipe
to spool the turbos
quicker.
The actual exhaust won't be a restriction
until you go to 15G turbos - then
I'd get the Borla exhaust. Then I'd go for
the entire intercooler upgrade,
pipes & all.
Cooler temps equal more
HP.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 1/26/99 12:35:02 PM Pacific
Standard Time, Dskull@aol.com
writes:
<< Subj:
Team3S: Modification Recommendations
Date: 1/26/99 12:35:02 PM Pacific
Standard Time
From: Dskull@aol.com
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Hi
, I have been on this list for a short while and have read every piece
of
archived, web, vendor info I can find. I own a 93 VR4 with a K&N
FIPK,
Magnacor wires, plugs gapped at 32, Blitz boost controller
running around
1.15 / 1.20 peak, GAB shocks, H&R springs, Road Race
rear tower bar,
slotted front rotors, PF 80 pads. I don't drag race it.
I DO road race it at
Pocono, Lime Rock, and Watkins Glen. If you were
at this point in mods what
would you do next for HP gains, keeping in
mind that the turbo's are almost
alway spooled up road racing. Would
you go for fuel management, or exhaust,
or turbo's, or injectors, or
fuel pump, or intercoolers, etc. Please include
why you would do a
upgrade and in what order. Sorry for the long post, but I
want to get
the biggest bang (sic) for the buck, without changing
directions
5
times to get there.
Dave Skultety - 1st corner near home is TURN 1
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:28:16 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: EGT Temperatures
> This can be two things...
>
1) too lean. Get rich. Buy bigger injectors/an AFC. Or,
sit tight,
> stare at wall, and keep repeating "LEAN IS
MEAN"...
If this is the case, then that means the
stock injectors cannot handle the fuel at
the higher boost levels. I
guess this is not a big problem for drag racing (short
spurts), but over here
on the Autobahns, where I can easily hold boost for several
miles, I am
probably pushing the engine too hard. I have been holding out
on
purchasing injectors/15-17gs/AFC till my warrantee runs out, but I may
have to speed up
my modification schedule
>
> 2) very
retarded timing: your gas hasn't enough octane for the boost
> you are
running-->you are detonating--> knock sensor is doing the
>
Cucaracha-->ignition timing retarding to stone age, and some gas is
>
still burning/BLOWTORCHING while shot into the exhaust manifold.
Use
> higher octane gas. I have seen a drop of 100F anecdotally
using race
> gas 114 octane,
This is also a
problem. The highest octane we can get here is 93, which is what I
was
using when I did these runs.
Sounds like parts of 1
& 2 above are causing a bigger problem. I guess I need to
play with
the boost/EGT/MPH/RPM a little more to see if I can isolate the problem.
One
more thing, I have not gutted my pre-cats. Mainly because I have no
idea how the
Germans do their emissions tests. The procedure is I drop
the car off in the morning
and it is ready in the afternoon. With the
way German laws are, if I fail, I could end
up having to give up my first
born to get my car back.
Well it looks like I have some
homework to do here. I am now really glad I got this
gauge. I
have had this "feeling" that the engine is right at the edge and now I
know.
Thanks,
Mike
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:28:39 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Modification Recommendations
First, save your engine! Install an
EGT
>1. Do the exhaust. You're not coming close to realizing the
potential of
the
>turbos with a stock exhaust. Replace it all, from the
precats back. Lengthy
>discussions have been had about various mfg versus
custom. Probably
personal
>preference once you've made the decision to
open up the flow.
I've been running 13g's @ 18psi with stock exhaust and
downpipe, BOV, and
intercoolers. If the stock exhaust were a
restriction, the 13g's wouldn't
be holding boost. If your already
running a boost controller, you will see
more power by switching to 500 or
550cc injectors. This also requires a
fuel pump upgrade and fuel
controller i.e. Apex AFC. The whole thing can be
done for a few hundred
more then the price of a downpipe and cat back
system.
>2. Larger
turbos.
13g's can be had from TEC for around 1500.00 or less than the
price of an
intercooler system. 13g's or 15g's are designed to run high
boost more
efficiently resulting in lower air temp. Aftermarket
intercoolers will make
little if any difference for short runs. As for
road racing, I've yet to
here if they make much difference, I have my
doubts.
Regards,
DaveT/92TT (Vendors never return my calls)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 04:05:22 +0100
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
> Hmm... Was
running low on the good stuff (gas) and decided
> to head into a petrol
station. On my way in I notice a
> fairly audible BANG! and seem to
have lost all gears...
Well, it seems that the big bang was the output
shaft being
destroyed. It seems that there was a good reason to
improve
this in the '93 and up models :)
They have pulled
it apart, but are not able to give me an
estimate of how long it will take to
fix for at least a
week. I think they are tossing up the cost of
replacement
vs the cost of fixing...
Hmm... looks like I will spending
a little more time around
the flat over the next few weeks
:(
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 04:19:05 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: HP Contest!
Mike Chapleski wrote:
>
> As Jim eluded to in a previous post, Jim
Matthews, Roger Gerl
> and I are meeting in Zurich, Switzerland on Monday
to strap our
> cars to an AWD dyno. Since Roger is the only one that
has done this
> in the past, both Jim and I are really looking forward to
what our
> cars are really at. We plan to share all the info with
the list so
> hopefully this will allow everyone to better interpolate
what their
> HP really is.
> So in going
with that we have decided to have a little contest
> on what everyone
thinks the HP is for each of our cars. Please
> send your
guesses/predictions to us personnaly so we don't clog the
>
list.
We will summarize your guesses when we post the results. Our
Email
addresses are as follows:
Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Jim
Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Roger
Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>
Mike's
mods:
'95 Stealth RT TT
22k
miles
Intake
K&N
Exhaust
Borla Cat Back
test
pipe
Alamo downpipe
pre-cat fully functional
Engine
Magnecor
wires
Blitz DSBC set at 14 psi
Apexi EGT probe clogging front
exhaust manifold
Stock turbos
Drivetrain
Mobil 1 10W030 oil
BG
Syncroshift in transaxle
Redline Heavy in Transfer case
Centerforce DF
clutch
Gas is 93 octane (highest we can get in Europe)
I have the
plugs gapped at .042. I plan to do a baseline run with this
setup, then
while Roger and Jim are setting up, I will regap to .032 and
do another
run.
Jim's mods (that would impact power), all made at 50k
miles:
'94 Stealth R/T TT
68k miles
Intake
K&N
FIPK
Exhaust
100% stock
Engine
Magnecor wires
Plugs
gapped to .034
A'PEXi SAVC-R set at 1.0 bar
Lubrication
Mobil 1
10W30 synthetic motor oil
Redline ShockProof Light in transaxle
Redline
ShockProof Heavy in Transfer case
Fuel
93 octane (highest available in
Europe)
Roger is out of town so I won't guess at his current mods
(not sure what
he ended up with after the rebuild and the GT Alley fiasco),
but his
last dyno session was 397 hp with the Blitz DSBC set at 1.05
bar.
Jim's guesses:
Roger = 405
Mike =
395
Jim = 375
Good luck! :-)
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off
Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:21:48 -0600
From: ebk@advant.com (Katz, Eric)
Subject: Team3S:
Newby modification questions
Hello all,
I'm a brand
spanking new list member-just found the list a couple of
days ago. I have a
'92 VR4 which is completely stock. It's interesting that
all the "quirks" my
car has developed seem to be common problems in the
archives. Anyway, it's
nice to have found this excellent resource. I will
try to take advantage of
it now by asking the following questions:
I am interested in participating
in the group purchase for the Altered
Atmosphere Motorsports air intake. Are
the filters reusable like the K&Ns?
Is there much of an increase in
noise? In GM turbo cars a less restrictive
intake usually results in "turbo
chatter", but if I am not mistaken, these
cars have a "sneeze valve" which
should prevent that(?) Thanks very much
for the
info.
Eric H.
Katz
ebk@advant.com
'86 Grand
National
'92 Mitsubishi 3000GT
VR4
'92 Typhoon-Black #1440
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:24:34 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Tranny Mod - BRE Engines
The following was posted on the DSM
digest. Could this company (BRE
Engines) help us as well?
Maybe
some one who lives near San Jose, CA can go and talk to BRE and
find
out.
Jose
Original message
folllows:--------------------------------------------
Date:
26 Jan 1999 11:45:10 -0600
From: Vernon Naidoo <venaidoo@dttus.com>
Subject: Tranny
mod - BRE Engines
Message-ID: <#30>
Hi All,
In the last
week or so I've noticed a couple of emails complaining
about the crappy AWD
transmissions. I thought I introduce those
interested to a company called BRE
Engines (San Jose, CA), which does
a nice mod on DSM transmissions that
eliminates almost all that
crappiness (if such a word exists). I was out in
California two
weekends back, and had a chance to test drive a '91 Talon that
had
just come out of BRE Engines shop, and I must admit that I was
very
impressed. Jeff, the owner, assured me that I could shift as fast as
I
wanted to, and at any rpm, and will never have a problem. My test
drive
could not prove him wrong.
Jeff is known for almost all the work on David
Shih's Honda, and is
currently helping Todd Chaimparino with his '91 Eclipse
to achieve
some similar HP. Todd currently boasts BRE Engines tranny
mod, and
has already made a couple of 12s test passes at the track with
no
complaints. If anyone is interested, contact Jeff at (408) 995-5750.
I
cannot give out any pricing info, as I got a special offer (friend
of
Todd's). I also cannot say what Jeff does to the tranny,
vendor
courtesy, but one can speculate.
I will be happy with a change
in the tranny, as I've lost too many
races because of a missed
shift.
Vernon Naidoo.
'91 Talon AWD
End of
message:-------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:33:28 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
ADMIN NOTICE - Please READ and SAVE...
To all Team3S list
subscribers:
Some questions have been raised about the suspension of
members from the
list -- both as to WHAT are the operating criteria for such
removals and WHO
is "running the ship", so to speak.
The seven
subscribers who formed and oversee this list operate as one, with
equal
authority and access to the software, and a common goal of making sure
that
all of the information that is posted here is of a technical
nature
pertaining to the Stealth and 3000GT. We collaborate on all
administrative
chores, and whoever originates an idea posts it, although we
all have a
"hand" in the wording. We chose to create a technical list
without flames,
chat, or fluff, and we listed a set of standards which each
member is
expected to respect.
In keeping with that goal, we try to
minimize admin posts going out to the
list that are unrelated, including the
workings of the list itself, and open
discussions about the removal of those
who have chosen not to adhere to the
rules, etc... We keep those
discussions private to insure that we ourselves
follow those rules and only
post technical information about the cars. We
appreciate that questions
to we 7 "administrators" have been made privately,
and that you all have
shown concern for keeping this list "clean".
From time to time, members
will make mistakes, with a post going out
accidentally, or we forget to turn
off HTML used in a previous email
session; we admins make those mistakes too,
so we assume that the occasional
posting error was inadvertent. But
subscribers who blatantly and repeatedly
disregard the rules are sent a
polite reminder (by whichever one of the
admins that happens to notice the
violation) to please correct the
situation. Also, there are times that
we admins don't notice a problem, and
one of you suggests that we give it our
attention.
In this most recent case of a listmember being removed,
several of you
alerted us beforehand that he had a tendency on other lists to
bait members
and attempt to create heated arguments; still other members
objected when he
actually sent that "kind" of inflammatory post. Such
behavior is not
acceptable on this list, so after an admin sent him a polite
warning, (and
his response included the phrase "...you will not get me to
kiss your
ass..."), it was obvious that this individual did not belong on
a
"gentleman's list" (gentleperson's list?), and he was removed. He
made his
choice; we simply implemented the rules.
For any questions
you may have of all of us, you may reach us at:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
,
or you may reach us individually at:
BOB Forrest, San Francisco,
CA, USA bf@bobforrest.com
CHRIS
Winkley, Portland, OR, USA cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
DARCY
Gunnlaugson, Victoria, B.C., CANADA wce@bc.sympatico.ca
JIM Matthews,
Wiesbaden, GERMANY matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
MIKAEL
Akesson, Stockholm, SWEDEN vr4@bahnhof.se
RICH Leroy, Ridgefield, WA,
USA rleroy@pacifier.com
ROGER
Gerl, Zurich, SWITZERLAND robby@swissonline.ch
Thank you for
your attention,
Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:01:41 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
Hey Kevin;
At
least one aftermarket maker of the output shaft (Italian) is now available (see
the
Summation on Getrag posting) and I believe someone else posted to group
awhile back
indicating another maker in the USA was producing aftermarket as
well. Maybe if they're
listening they could post
back.
Best
Darc
Kevin Clark wrote:
> > Hmm...
Was running low on the good stuff (gas) and decided
> > to head into a
petrol station. On my way in I notice a
> > fairly audible BANG!
and seem to have lost all gears...
>
> Well, it seems that the big
bang was the output shaft being
> destroyed. It seems that there was
a good reason to improve
> this in the '93 and up models
:)
>
> They have pulled it apart, but are not able to give me
an
> estimate of how long it will take to fix for at least a
>
week. I think they are tossing up the cost of replacement
> vs the
cost of fixing...
>
> Hmm... looks like I will spending a little
more time around
> the flat over the next few weeks
:(
>
> Cheers,
> Kevin Clark
> '91
GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:34:11 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Newby modification questions
>I am interested in
participating in the group purchase for the Altered
>Atmosphere
Motorsports air intake. Are the filters reusable like the K&Ns?
>Is
there much of an increase in noise? In GM turbo cars a less
restrictive
>intake usually results in "turbo chatter",
>
Welcome!
I have a K&N FIPK filter in my 91 RT/TT and I
have not noticed any turbo
chatter noise. Also air intake in the group
prurchase uses the exact same
element that K&N uses. K&N manufactures
the element for this and other
aftermarket filters. I believe that the intake
is the same as the K&N except
that the center is cut out and has more
filter area there (to increase
airflow..... or so they say).
On another
note, if you are looking for modification advice, check out
www.nexusmotorsports.com . They have
a section on the Stealth/3000GT. Go to
"SALES" and click on our car. At the
bottom of the list, they have a "Staged
Upgrades" section that I find very
helpful. And www.3000GT.com has
a
modifications section that lists many performance upgrades and
explains
them. These two web resources help me understand my turbocharged car
since
this is my first one.
Hope This Helps!
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:30:27 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: '95
R/T TT mods (hp contest)
Mike,
I noticed you've got some of the
same mods I have and am planning for my '95
R/T TT. I currently have
K&N FIPK, Magnecore wires and NGK plugs. The
plugs and wires will
go on the car anyday now. I plan to gap the plugs at
.034.
I am
looking for the next hp mod, which in my case will be a
boost
controller. I'm having a hard time deciding on exhaust.
There are so many
different theories out there regarding the value of
upgrading the stock
exhaust. I know Jim M. is of the belief that this
does not make a
difference. So, now that I see what mods you've got I
must ask your
opinion. Do you see an improvement compared to
stock? Do you think that
cat-back alone will matter?
Maybe you
will know more after comparing to Jim's car on the dyno!
Enjoy the dyno
session - should be a learning experience. I'm curious to
see what the
re-gapping of the plugs yield!!
BTW - I don't know what you've got for
brakes. Personally I was unhappy
with the factory brakes. My
front rotors were warped, not to mention poor
stopping power. I always
have wanted cross drilled rotors and that is what
I just ordered. For
$717 I got the following shipped to Minnesota:
4 cross drilled Stillen
rotors
Front/rear sets of Metal matrix pads
Stillen/Goodridge braided
brake lines
A pretty good price! I got them from Alamo
Motorsports.
Thanks,
Oskar
Pearl White 95 R/T TT
31k
miles
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:37:33 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Ouch!
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01BE4984.D8F99AA0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
Sorry guys! =20
My previous post was intended to be
private.
Time for bed...
-
------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01BE4984.D8F99AA0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sorry guys!
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My previous post
was intended to be =
private.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Time for
bed...</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_00FE_01BE4984.D8F99AA0--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:54:35 -0800
From: Kyle Patton <smite@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: spring
spacers
I need some spacers to stiffen up my rear springs for launching.
Where
can I obtain some? How exactly do I use them? I'm getting a g-tech and
I
want to work on my 60 ft. times. Thanks
Kyle
black '94 3000GT
base
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:44:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Stealth Brakes Question
Hi All,
My car has ~102K miles on it, and
I'm still using the brakes that were on
it when I bought it at ~12K.
I've had them inspected every time I take
the car in to fix a tire (I seem to
pick up lots of nails), get the tires
rotated, etc, which is about every
3-6K. Every time, they report "plenty
of meat on there", and that the
brakes are fine.
I don't have any indications that this isn't so, but I'm
kinda leary of
the idea of running on brakes that "seasoned". So here,
finally, are the
questions: do any of you have similar mileage on your
brakes? (I know
some of you go through a set of pads in a weekend at
the track...) Should
I be more skeptical of the folks who have looked
at them? I haven't
checked them myself - never taken apart brakes on a
car, any Hoosiers out
there willing to help me?
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth
ES
Vital papers will demonstrate their vitality by moving from where you
left
them to where you can't find them.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:56:01 -0600
From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Advice needed on boost gauge installation
Hi everyone,
I
just got my Autometer boost gauge in the mail yesterday, but I'm
scratching
my head on one thing. The fittings that were included don't
contain a T
connector. All of the pictures I've seen of 3/S cars with
gauges or
controllers have a T connector to tap into the hose. Can I buy
a
universal T connector from Wal-Mart in the Aquarium department? Or do
I
need to buy a T connector from Autometer?? Or am I missing
something
obvious? The connectors that are supplied are all threaded
and look way to
wide. Please reply to me privately and to the list,
because I subscribe to
the digest and I want to figure this problem as
quickly as possible.
Thanks,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:47:32 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Ouput shaft in the '91-'92 Transmissions...
At 09:01 PM
1/26/99 -0800, you wrote:
>Hey Kevin;
> I believe someone else
posted to group
>awhile back
>indicating another maker in the USA
was producing aftermarket as well. Maybe
>if they're
>listening
they could post back.
Yes, i am listening. The place you need to contact
if you want one is East
street auto.
Phone; 901-774-5374
Talk to
Jim and please tell him i told you about this deal.
I believe he is getting
$400 for each piece.
Later
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:11:54 -0500
From: "Nexus Motorsports" <nexus@alleyesonme.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Advice needed on boost gauge installation
>I just got my
Autometer boost gauge in the mail yesterday, but I'm
>scratching my head
on one thing. The fittings that were included don't
>contain a T
connector.
You can buy a 4mm or 6mm (depending on what size vacuum hose
you plan on
using) from any local auto parts store such as AutoZone or
PepBoys. A
standard size like 5/32 is fine. Also make sure to use
zip ties and tie up
the hose connecting to the T fitting. Most of the
fittings you'll find in
parts store is made out of plastic. Try and
find the strongest or thickest
plastic fitting you can. We see a lot of
cars here at the shop where an old
plastic fitting just breaks off the hose
at the slightest touch due to heat
deterioration and old age. It's a
pain when we are trying to move things
like a boost gauge vacuum hose around
for a new boost controller or such.
That's why we don't even use the plastic
fitting supplied with the various
boost controllers and gauges here at the
shop anymore. The best fitting to
get is the ones made out of
brass. They are pricey, but I think they are
worth it in the long
run.
Chien
Nexus Motorsports Import
Performance Parts Specialists
http://www.nexusmotorsports.com
Phone:
(301) 631-9210
Fax: (301) 631-9211
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:24:06 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Stealth Brakes Question
At 08:44 AM 1/27/99 -0500, you
wrote:
>
>do any of you have similar mileage on your brakes?
(I know
>some of you go through a set of pads in a weekend at the
track...) Should
>I be more skeptical of the folks who have looked
at them? I haven't
>checked them myself - never taken apart brakes
on a car, any Hoosiers out
>there willing to help me?
I would go
ahead and take theyre word for it. They would'nt pass up a
chance to make
money. I've put 20k miles on my brakes and they havent worn
much at all.
Other brands may wear out faster, but Mitsu pads seem to last
forever.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:17:18 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Advice needed on boost gauge installation
You will require a T
fitting. Grab a chunk of the hose and go down to a
hardware, automotive
or pet supply store and find one that fits. I think
the hose is usually
around 1/4" but may be smaller or larger depending upon
the hose. Get
the barbed fitting style.
I recommend not buying the cheapest one you see
since they are often more
likely to become brittle with the high underhood
temperatures and crack.
Even the HKS ones aren't that great. Brass
seems to work well also. Small
zip ties can be used to ensure a snug
junction of the hose to the
fitting.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> Hi everyone,
>
> I just got my Autometer boost
gauge in the mail yesterday, but I'm
> scratching my head on one
thing. The fittings that were included don't
> contain a T
connector. All of the pictures I've seen of 3/S cars with
> gauges
or controllers have a T connector to tap into the hose.
> Can I buy
a
> universal T connector from Wal-Mart in the Aquarium department?
Or do I
> need to buy a T connector from Autometer?? Or am I missing
something
> obvious? The connectors that are supplied are all
threaded and
> look way to
> wide. Please reply to me
privately and to the list, because I
> subscribe to
> the digest and
I want to figure this problem as quickly as possible.
>
>
Thanks,
> Curt G
> 95 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:34:52 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Advice needed on boost gauge installation
Curt,
In
addition to what everyone is telling you, you must also consider weather
or
not you want to monitor vaccum. Not all hoses under the hood
'see'
vacum.(only the ones downstream of the throttle plate) Remove hoses one
at
a time while the engine is idling until you find one that is sucking
air,
then tie into that one.
Wayne
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #84
***************************
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