--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #83
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Tuesday, January 26 1999        Volume 01 : Number 083




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:24:07 -0600
From: Bill Davis <b-davis@primary.net>
Subject: Team3S: POTHOLES!!!

Well Saturday, around noon, I was driving I-40 Eastbound, in St. Louis,
around 141 Mason Rd. area,(St. Louis guys know where), far left lane.
I was doing about 60, because the road was wet from the abnormal
snow we had that morning. I hit this series of potholes, almost lost
control of my car, damn near threw me into the next lane.

All of a sudden my ECS light starts flashing, I pull over to have a
look.
My left front wheel, and tire are completely destroyed, my left rear
wheel
is damaged, and apparently my left front strut is damaged.

I have called the highway dept. to find out if they will pay to have the
car
repaired. Does anyone know anything about these type of issues?
On Saturday I called the St Louis Co. dept of trans, and they told me
if the road was one that they maintain, that they do indeed pay for the
damage.
Unfortunately they dont maintain I-40.

Advice, information, on any similar experiences would be much
appreciated.

If anyone has one 6 spoke 18"  chrome rim for sale, I suppose I may be
in the
market by this afternoon. I have little faith in the state taking
responsibility for this.

Bill Davis Lame 95 VR-4


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:27:25 -0600
From: Bill Davis <b-davis@primary.net>
Subject: Team3S: POTHOLES!!!!

Well Saturday, around noon, I was driving I-40 Eastbound, in St. Louis,
around 141 Mason Rd. area,(St. Louis guys know where), far left lane.
I was doing about 60, because the road was wet from the abnormal
snow we had that morning. I hit this series of potholes, almost lost
control of my car, damn near threw me into the next lane.

All of a sudden my ECS light starts flashing, I pull over to have a
look.
My left front wheel, and tire are completely destroyed, my left rear
wheel
is damaged, and apparently my left front strut is damaged.

I have called the highway dept. to find out if they will pay to have the

car
repaired. Does anyone know anything about these type of issues?
On Saturday I called the St Louis Co. dept of trans, and they told me
if the road was one that they maintain, that they do indeed pay for the
damage.
Unfortunately they dont maintain I-40.

Advice, information, on any similar experiences would be much
appreciated.

If anyone has one 6 spoke 18"  chrome rim for sale, I suppose I may be
in the
market by this afternoon. I have little faith in the state taking
responsibility for this.

Bill Davis Lame 95 VR-4




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:32:54 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S: No pre-cats, still using main cat

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Is there anyone out there who has gutted the pre-cats and is running =
with a maincat?  If so, for how long have you had this setup.

It seems that the common belief is that this *should* deteriorate the =
main cat.  Since I want to get rid of the pre-cats but still use a =
hi-flow cat, I posed this question to a few vendors/manufacturers.  =
Mostly I was told this would NOT present a problem.  This from =
representatives at both ATR and IMP as well as a few of our vendors.  =
The only hesitation came from Random Technologies where I was told the =
main cat *might* be damaged if the car is running rich, but otherwise =
should be fine.

Oskar,
'95 R/T TT

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Is there anyone out there who has gutted the pre-cats and is =
running with a=20
maincat?&nbsp; If so, for how long have you had this setup.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>It seems that the common belief is that this *should* deteriorate =
the main=20
cat.&nbsp; Since I want to get rid of the pre-cats but still use a =
hi-flow cat,=20
I posed this question to a few vendors/manufacturers.&nbsp; Mostly I was =
told=20
this would NOT present a problem.&nbsp; This from representatives at =
both ATR=20
and IMP as well as a few of our vendors.&nbsp; The only hesitation came =
from=20
Random Technologies where I was told the main cat *might* be damaged if =
the car=20
is running rich, but <FONT size=3D3>otherwise should be =
fine.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>Oskar,</FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>'95 R/T =
TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:07:33 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: No pre-cats, still using main cat

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I haven't had that setup, but let me comment on this subject.  A
deterioration of the catalyst occurs when it comes in contact with fuel-rich
exhaust.  That's one of the reasons they put the pre-cats there in the first
place.  If you have a stock fuel setup, i.e., no equipment that modifies
fuel delivery in any way, you might get away with gutted pre-cats for years.
Changes that we make to our fuel systems are NEVER tested to the same degree
that the OEM does, and therefore, we can never predict how much unburned
fuel is passing through the main converter at any time, especially during
warmup.  Personally, I'd replace the main with a test pipe (for off-road use
only).

- -Bob



    Is there anyone out there who has gutted the pre-cats and is running
with a maincat?  If so, for how long have you had this setup.



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charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D260445513-25011999><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>I=20
haven't had that setup, but let me comment on this subject.&nbsp; A=20
deterioration of the catalyst occurs when it comes in contact with =
fuel-rich=20
exhaust.&nbsp; That's one of the reasons they put the pre-cats there in =
the=20
first place.&nbsp; <SPAN class=3D260445513-25011999><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>If you have a stock fuel setup, i.e., no equipment that =
modifies fuel=20
delivery in any way, you might get away with gutted pre-cats for =
years.&nbsp;=20
Changes that we make to our fuel systems are NEVER tested to the same =
degree=20
that the OEM does, and therefore, we can never predict how much unburned =
fuel is=20
passing through the main converter at any time, especially during =
warmup.&nbsp;=20
Personally, I'd replace the main with a test pipe (for off-road use=20
only).</FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D260445513-25011999><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2><SPAN=20
class=3D260445513-25011999><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D260445513-25011999><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2>-Bob</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D2><BR><BR></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV>Is there anyone out there who has gutted the pre-cats and is =
running=20
    with a maincat?&nbsp; If so, for how long have you had this =
setup.</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:45:44 PST
From: "Shattered Soul" <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: POTHOLES!!!

Try living in Michigan.  We are the pothole capital of the world.  Just
this morning on the radio they were talking about a 10ft pothole.
There were like 10 cars on the side of the road with thrashed tires and
wheels.  Its actually quite embarrassing.  One a several reasons I am
ready to pack up and go somewhere else.  And they call us the motor
city!?!

Chris

>
>Well Saturday, around noon, I was driving I-40 Eastbound, in St. Louis,
>around 141 Mason Rd. area,(St. Louis guys know where), far left lane.
>I was doing about 60, because the road was wet from the abnormal
>snow we had that morning. I hit this series of potholes, almost lost
>control of my car, damn near threw me into the next lane.
>
>All of a sudden my ECS light starts flashing, I pull over to have a
>look.
>My left front wheel, and tire are completely destroyed, my left rear
>wheel
>is damaged, and apparently my left front strut is damaged.
>
>I have called the highway dept. to find out if they will pay to have
the
>car
>repaired. Does anyone know anything about these type of issues?
>On Saturday I called the St Louis Co. dept of trans, and they told me
>if the road was one that they maintain, that they do indeed pay for the
>damage.
>Unfortunately they dont maintain I-40.
>
>Advice, information, on any similar experiences would be much
>appreciated.
>
>If anyone has one 6 spoke 18"  chrome rim for sale, I suppose I may be
>in the
>market by this afternoon. I have little faith in the state taking
>responsibility for this.
>
>Bill Davis Lame 95 VR-4
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:52:27 -0600
From: Bill Davis <b-davis@primary.net>
Subject: Team3S: Multiple messages

I'm sorry for the multiple POTHOLES message.
Apparently the dragnet server bounced it, and my server
re-sent it.

Bill Davis LAME LIMPING 95 VR-4


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:42:31 EST
From: Waflestomp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: .... bought an alarm...

If you are looking for volume.  Alarm manufactures used to make something
called a pain generator, (a cute little item mounted inside the cockpit used
to blast the eardrums of the offending party).  However, as with most defense
items, remember that pain generator is not discretionary, and you could fall
victim as easily as a thief.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:44:10 -0700
From: "Michael O'Krancy" <mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #82

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Gentlemen,

Friday, I posted to the list information on a Bosch, headlight conversion
kit that allows H4 bulbs to be installed.  I personally went with a couple
of blue 100/80W halogens.  Very cool.  Ridiculously bright.  Anyway, I also
went for the snake-eyes mod while doing the job.  My vehicle is a 91 STT.
If you read the modification instructions on the 3si.org page it "warns"
that the fog lights my cease to operate while the head lights are on in this
particular iteration of the Stealth.  Well after performing the operation
guess what has ceased to operate.  My question for the group is simply this;
Does anyone have a 1991 Dodge Stealth with the ability to have the fog
lights operating at the same time as the headlights as well as having
performed the snake-eyes modification?  My vehicle sits in pieces awaiting
knowledge from the group.  If anyone has the solution to this problem, could
you please post some brief instructions as to how to rectify this problem.

Thanks,

mike

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:37:06 PST
From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
Subject: FogLight Wiring Mods Was:Re: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #82

This is "future 3si content" but it does have some wiring tips to change
foglight behavior.

This is a modification to allow the fog lights  be operational while the
headlights are off or on high beam, or both, depending on the year of
the vehicle.


Please do not attempt these mods if you are unfamiliar with basic
wiring.(stripping, crimping, etc.) Or you are not comfortable with
cutting and splicing you're wiring harness.
When performing these mods, use real connectors. DO NOT "twist and
tape".
Other than basic hand tools, you will need a wire stripper, cutter,
crimper, some crimp on connectors, and/or wire nuts.
91 model is different than all others, be sure you do the correct mod
for you're vehicle year.


NOTE:  Always dis-connect battery before doing anything with the wiring.

MOD 1, 91 YEAR MODEL ONLY - The fog lights will remain illuminated when
high beams are on.

1. Locate the fuse box near the air filter - gain access to the
underside of the fuse box by removing the 3 bolts that hold it in place.

2. Remove the lower cover by lightly prying out the clips while pulling
the cover out of the way.

3. Locate the fog light relay - it is the 3rd relay from the front of
the box. (Top cover of box has diagram)

4. Cut the red/white wire leading to the fog light relay socket as far
away from the socket as possible, but leaving enough slack on the
harness side to re-connect it if you decide to go back to stock.

5. Connect the relay socket side of the wire to a good ground. Cap off
the harness side of the wire with a wire nut, or butt connector.

6. Replace the lower cover of the box, and re-install the box with the 3
bolts.

That concludes phase 1. You're fog lights will now work with high beams.

MOD 2, 91 YEAR MODEL ONLY - Fog lights will function with headlights off
(parking lights on)

1. Remove the instrument cluster bezel (black piece which houses the
fog/pop-up switch and the ecs/rear defogger switch) by removing 2
screws. Dis-connect the 2 switch connectors.

2.  On the harness connector that goes to the fog/pop-up switch, cut the
red wire with the blue stripe (NOT the blue wire with red stripe) at a
point where both ends will be accessible. This wire is the one in the
top corner of the connector.

3. Connect the switch side of the wire to a 12v source controlled by the
tail lights. Cap off the harness side with a wire nut, or butt
connector.

4. re-connect the harnesses to the switches and replace the bezel.

Note: High beam will still disable the fog lights, unless both mod 1 and
mod 2 are done.

MOD 3, 92-97 YEAR MODEL ONLY - The fog lights will remain illuminated
when high beams are on.

1. Remove the instrument cluster bezel (black piece which houses the
fog/pop-up switch and the ecs/rear defogger switch) by removing 2
screws. Dis-connect the 2 switch connectors.

2.  On the harness connector that goes to the fog/pop-up switch, cut the
red wire with the white stripe at a point where both ends will be
accessible.

3. Connect the switch side of the wire to a good ground. Cap off the
harness side with a wire nut, or butt connector.

4. re-connect the harnesses to the switches and replace the bezel.

NOTE: On the 92-97 year models, I have not yet figured out how to
duplicate mod 2 above. (foglights on without headlights)

All three of the modifications will allow the fog light switch to
function properly. (you can still turn off the fog lights completly)
Good luck, and good lighting!!


.  My question for the group is simply this;
>Does anyone have a 1991 Dodge Stealth with the ability to have the fog
>lights operating at the same time as the headlights as well as having
>performed the snake-eyes modification?  My vehicle sits in pieces
awaiting
>knowledge from the group.  If anyone has the solution to this problem,
could
>you please post some brief instructions as to how to rectify this
problem.
>
>Thanks,
>
>mike
>


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:57:17 PST
From: "Shattered Soul" <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: .... bought an alarm...

There is also something out there called the auto-taser.  Nothing like
50,000 volts.  Then you have up to a half hour to find them laying there
helpless to beat the living hell out of them.  Now that is my kind of
alarm.  Or you can get what they have in South Africa to curb car
jacking.  Its a flame thrower that shoots liquid petroleum up to 8 feet
from the both sides of the car.  Of course its not legal over here.  But
hey dead man can't talk.

Chris

>
>If you are looking for volume.  Alarm manufactures used to make
something
>called a pain generator, (a cute little item mounted inside the cockpit
used
>to blast the eardrums of the offending party).  However, as with most
defense
>items, remember that pain generator is not discretionary, and you could
fall
>victim as easily as a thief.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:31:07 -0800
From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Auto Taser!

>There is also something out there called the auto-taser.  Nothing like
>50,000 volts........
Really?.... Is that legal? And where can I get it!


>Or you can get what they have in South Africa to curb car
>jacking.  Its a flame thrower that shoots liquid petroleum up to 8 feet
>from the both sides of the car.  Of course its not legal over here......

hehee... I remeber the story... I work on the TV show "Extra" and we ran
that story last week.
     How about when an intruder enters the vehicle, visible yellow smoke
starts pouring out of the air vents. It will be harmless of course, but it
will scare the sh*t out of him!

    BTW, that pain generator idea on a previous post is basically what I had
in mind but I figure a full on siren would be louder!

thanks,
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com




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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:15:04 PST
From: "Shattered Soul" <shadowphantom_1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Auto Taser!

>Really?.... Is that legal? And where can I get it!

Here is the website for the AUTO TASER. I think the 1 1/2" arc is enough
to scare someone away.  It is legal too!

http://www.autotaser.com/index2.htm

Chris


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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:27:37 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Admin note

Please insure that your bells and whistles ( color, font,  etc) are
turned off before posting to group. It plays havoc with our setup. ..
ie. send in plain text only. I know, I know,  I like to use them too,
but it really does create too much of a problem for us.

Thanks

Darc

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 22:39:20 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: EGT Temperatures

    I installed an Apexi EGT gauge on my '95 Stealth RT TT this
weekend.  Took a lot longer than I thought.  This was due to two bolts
breaking which meant I had to totally remove the front turbo.  I
installed it in the front exhaust manifold about an inch before the
turbo.  I figured this is will give me the most accurate readings of the
gas coming out of the front bank.  Only thing I did not like about it
was the large fitting, which I think decreased the outlet area by about
10 percent.

    What is the maximum temp I should see?  I played with it a little
tonight on the drive home from work, and got it to hit 950-975 deg. C
(1742-1787 F).  I was going about 120 MPH at the time with 14 psi of
boost.  I had to slow down because of traffic, but it was still climbing
before I let off the gas.  This seems very high to me.

With no load on the turbos, just cruising down the highway, the temp was
between 700-800 deg. C (1292-1472 F).

Overall, I think these numbers are very high.  Thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike 0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:21:59 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGT Temperatures

Those look pretty normal, given where you have the probe.  Depending on your
A/F ratio and ambient air temps (50s or cooler), you can see 1700F+ easily.
Just don't keep it there.  I wouldn't necessarily adjust the A/F ratio to
achieve lower EGT temps in 4th or 5th.  Instead, you're safer lowering the
boost level so that the temps are no more than 1450F at WOT.  Now, in 1st,
2nd and 3rd, because of the short duration, A/F ratio can be adjusted to
peak at 1700F+ but you had better lift off the throttle if you see it climb
past that!

- -Bob

> With no load on the turbos, just cruising down the highway, the temp was
> between 700-800 deg. C (1292-1472 F).
>
> Overall, I think these numbers are very high.  Thoughts?

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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:19:38 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT Temperatures

Mike Chapleski wrote:
> EGT gauge in front manifold an inch before turbo
> hit 950-975 deg C (1742-1787F) going 120 MPH 14 psi boost; was still climbing
> before I let off gas.  No load cruising highway temp 700-800C (1292-1472F)
> Mike '95 Stealth RT TT

That is what I see.  Good to see others there, I have been ashamed of my
high EGT's in the past, but now we can commiserate!  I have seen 1850F
at DSM vs 3S Drag Event in Texas, 11/96, when I had 550cc inj and
15G's.  I regularly see it go over 1700, to 1750 or so and climbing
slower, on accel runs.

This can be two things...
1)  too lean.  Get rich.  Buy bigger injectors/an AFC.  Or, sit tight,
stare at wall, and keep repeating "LEAN IS MEAN"...
2)  very retarded timing: your gas hasn't enough octane for the boost
you are running-->you are detonating--> knock sensor is doing the
Cucaracha-->ignition timing retarding to stone age, and some gas is
still burning/BLOWTORCHING while shot into the exhaust manifold.  Use
higher octane gas.  I have seen a drop of 100F anecdotally using race
gas 114 octane, vs.  crappy "reformulated" (oxygenated with MTBE or
Ethanol) gas peddled around my area due to draconian and frequently
anti-scientific environmental laws which are making my environment way
too clean for me to live HAPPILY  :)

Jack Tertadian
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:10:36 -0500
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Synchros

Paul,

I know their big guys, but how about Borg Warner?

Don

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Paul;
>
> You symbolize what this Team is really all about. Good on Ya! I will try to restrain
> myself from too much of a profile from now on, and let you good guys do what you do
> best. I just had note, however, your use of  "our",  which should give everyone who
> feels the same way, a shit eatin smile!!  I hope that your/our list grows in the days
> ahead, and that some manufacturer somewhere is affected by the enthusiasum of our Team
> spirit .
>
> Best
>
> Darc
>
> Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Ok I just went back to the Hurst website and found their email address. I sent
> > the same letter as described in my last post. At this point our "list"
> > includes the following:
> >
> > Ligenfelter
> > Hurst
> >
> > Paul
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:19:33 -0500
From: Irving & Ana Jimenez <lt1power@crystal.palace.net>
Subject: Team3S: Front Wheel Dif. ?

Hey gang,

Just have a quick question that I wanted to verify.

Is the Front Wheel Drive differential on the VR4 a limited slip unit or just a regular
dif ?

Curious, because I read somewhere that it was but wasn't sure of the source for the
info. !

Irving Jimenez
96 VR-4
(Wife) - 96 Eclipse GSX


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:21:20 -0500
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: POTHOLES!!!

Chris,

I'm with you. Was it I-94 or I-275, their are both disaster areas!

Don
Shattered Soul wrote:
>
> Try living in Michigan.  We are the pothole capital of the world.  Just
> this morning on the radio they were talking about a 10ft pothole.
> There were like 10 cars on the side of the road with thrashed tires and
> wheels.  Its actually quite embarrassing.  One a several reasons I am
> ready to pack up and go somewhere else.  And they call us the motor
> city!?!
>
> Chris
>
> >
> >Well Saturday, around noon, I was driving I-40 Eastbound, in St. Louis,
> >around 141 Mason Rd. area,(St. Louis guys know where), far left lane.
> >I was doing about 60, because the road was wet from the abnormal
> >snow we had that morning. I hit this series of potholes, almost lost
> >control of my car, damn near threw me into the next lane.
> >
> >All of a sudden my ECS light starts flashing, I pull over to have a
> >look.
> >My left front wheel, and tire are completely destroyed, my left rear
> >wheel
> >is damaged, and apparently my left front strut is damaged.
> >
> >I have called the highway dept. to find out if they will pay to have
> the
> >car
> >repaired. Does anyone know anything about these type of issues?
> >On Saturday I called the St Louis Co. dept of trans, and they told me
> >if the road was one that they maintain, that they do indeed pay for the
> >damage.
> >Unfortunately they dont maintain I-40.
> >
> >Advice, information, on any similar experiences would be much
> >appreciated.
> >
> >If anyone has one 6 spoke 18"  chrome rim for sale, I suppose I may be
> >in the
> >market by this afternoon. I have little faith in the state taking
> >responsibility for this.
> >
> >Bill Davis Lame 95 VR-4
> >
> >
> >For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 17:33:49 -0800
From: Kyle Patton <smite@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: F*cked my GT up...

I had a crappy weekend. I was doing about 30 on a city road when this
guy in front of me slams on the brakes to avoid running a yellow. This
really caught me off guard, but I figured I had enough room to stop
(about 30 feet). I gave the brakes firm pressure however i wasn't
stopping fast enough so I proceeded to slam on them. The brakes locked
up and the car slid the rest of the way into the back of a massive
'80'sish mercedes. The driver of the mercedes and I both got out to
check the damage. There wasn't even a tiny scratch on the mercedes while
my brand new bumper was completely screwed up. The paint is seriously
marred on the immediate front and it is majorly flaking around the right
headlight. Funny thing is I just replaced my front bumper cover about 2
months before because some idiot hit me in a parking lot. Well this time
it was my fault and I have no intention of filing a third claim within a
year. My question is this. Since I will probably have to replace the
cover again, can anyone tell me if I can obtain the '99 bumper cover for
my GT? Or does erebuni sell the front piece of the shogun kit
separately? How about the bozz speed front bumper extension?
Thanks for reading; sorry about the long post!


Kyle
black '94 3000GT base
screwed up front bumper cover mod
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 19:59:30 -0600
From: "Steven A. File" <sfile@usa.net>
Subject: Team3S: Mitsu Engines and Clutches

This site has remanufactured Mitsubishi engines with a 5 year 50,000 mile
warranty:
http://www.quality-import-parts.com/mitsmain.htm
3000 GT engines are at the bottom.

They also have clutch kits at:
http://www.quality-import-parts.com/mitsclut.htm
Might be a good place for a group discount, the way some of us go through
engines and clutches!           :>)

Steve File
mailto:sfile@usa.net

Weekend Toy: '97 Mitsubishi 3000 GT, VR-4, AWD, AWS, TT,
     Solano Blk Pearl: "The Turbo Beep-Beep"
Weekday Toy: '98 Mitsubishi 3000 GT, SOHC,
     Solano Blk Pearl: "The Beep-Beep"

Things that make you go 'hhhhmmmmm . . .
       "If all is not lost, then where is it?"

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 18:35:07 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: F*cked my GT up...

If there's only flaking paint and some moderate marring of the finish, a
good detailing shop can repair the bumper and match the paint.  As a result
of a Jimmy backing into me in a parking lot and mashing the front license
plate into the bumper AND a right front smash of unknown origin, the local
shop here only charged a couple of hundred $ for a perfect repair and paint
job.

Forrest


- -----Original Message-----From: Kyle Patton <smite@home.com>
- -------------snip-------------
|my brand new bumper was completely screwed up. The paint is seriously
|marred on the immediate front and it is majorly flaking around the right
|headlight...  --------snip-------


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 21:23:09 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Attempted Theft!.... bought an alarm...

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jose Soriano [SMTP:amahoser@linkline.com]
Sent: Monday, January 25, 1999 3:04 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Attempted Theft!.... bought an alarm...

I'm not sure if the
alarm circuitry can handle the load of two, maybe three sirens so I will
add
a relay.
[Brian Danley]
Yes add a relay.  I had a show truck with 3 sirens and one Fan Siren (off a
fire engine).  It was very loud.  The problem with this is the more sirens
you put on the less easy it is to turn off from far away.  If you can find
it there is a siren called The Siren From Hell.  It's loud but it makes a
different sound then the common 5-6 tone.  You can also get one that just
makes one tone ..That way it's different from the others.  By the way you
bought a nice unit, DEI makes some of the best products on the market.

Brian
 



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 05:04:49 +0100
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Attempted Theft!.... bought an alarm...

> The only place under the hood that I could find was underneath
> the fuse/relay box in front of the air filter. Does anyone know
> of another location?

The following image (6KB) is of an Alpine Siren fitted beside
the stock filter and fuse box...  It is tight but you may find
room here.

It also might be a good time to fit a K&N, and thus get a whole
heap more room   :)





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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 07:24:56 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT Temperatures

xwing wrote:
>
> Mike Chapleski wrote:
> > EGT gauge in front manifold an inch before turbo
> > hit 950-975 deg C (1742-1787F) going 120 MPH 14 psi boost; was still climbing
> > before I let off gas.  No load cruising highway temp 700-800C (1292-1472F)
> > Mike '95 Stealth RT TT
>
> This can be two things...
> 1)  too lean.  Get rich.  Buy bigger injectors/an AFC.  Or, sit tight,
> stare at wall, and keep repeating "LEAN IS MEAN"...
> 2)  very retarded timing: your gas hasn't enough octane for the boost
> you are running-->you are detonating--> knock sensor is doing the
> Cucaracha-->ignition timing retarding to stone age, and some gas is
> still burning/BLOWTORCHING while shot into the exhaust manifold.

Yikes!  This is bad news, as I frequently lay into the gas for extended
periods on the Autobahn.  I wouldn't be surprised if it turns out that
reason #1 is to blame, since from previous discussions on this list it
appeared that the stock injectors deliver inadequate flow for 1.0 bar at
high RPMs.  At least I hope that's the case... Mike could have easily
sustained 120 mph at 14 psi in a higher gear/lower RPMs, pointing the
finger to reason #2, which is a tad harder to resolve.

Next Monday's dyno session with Mike and Roger in Switzerland will be
very revealing, as we hope to determine the conditions for and threshold
of knock.

-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 09:20:02 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Front Wheel Dif. ?

At 08:19 PM 1/25/99 -0500, you wrote:

>Is the Front Wheel Drive differential on the VR4 a limited slip unit or just
>a regular
>dif ?

It's NOT lim. slip.


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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #83
***************************

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