--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #79
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Thursday, January 21 1999 Volume 01 :
Number
079
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:43:56 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Diagnostics Port...
> Roger Gerl is working on something for
DOS or Windows computers.
No, the DiagTool is not really PC based as I
only took a microcontroller board
and hook up 8 sensors or just read voltages
and signals. The readings will then
just be sent out to any PC and then
interpreted by a windows-based program. I
haven't fully defined the protocol
yet as I currently have problems finding a
MAP sensor on a good price. The
first release will not be able to read anything
out of the ECU but the ODB
baud rate is somwhat around 8600baud and I could read
it too. I found it more
important to read boost against rpm, injector duty cycle
and temperatures
until the onboard protocol can be hacked easily.
I'll let you know soon
more about it :)
- -----------------------------
Roger Gerl, R-Tec
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:49:59 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Diagnostics
Port...
Kevin,
>
Blitz DSBC (maybe get some data from that unused port?)
Blitz does not
give any information on this port. The MAP Analyzer conected to
this port is
able to read the bosot levels and store the behavior in different
maps. Then
those maps can be choosen for controlling the DSBC (M-mode).
Therefore the
signals are in- and output but I wasn't able to find out anything.
I wish I'd
have a data analyzer handy :)
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:01:51 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil survey results
Howdy folks...
Here's the results from
the data submitted between 12/20/98 and 1/10/99:
Number of responses: 25
(100%)
Model years:
1991: 4 (16%)
1992: 7 (28%)
1993: 6
(24%)
1994: 6 (24%)
1995: 1 (4%)
1996: 0 (0%)
1997: 1 (4%)
1998:
0 (0%)
1999: 0 (0%)
Number of TT/NA: 21/4 (84% TT)
Number of miles (one
didn't list the miles):
under 25K: 4 (16.6%)
25K - 50K: 5 (20.8%)
50K -
75K: 8 (33.3%)
75K - 100K: 4 (16.6%)
over 100K: 3 (12.5%)
Number using
synthetic/dino oil: 23/2 (92% synthetic)
Number using OEM/aftermarket filter:
15/10 (60% using OEM)
Change frequency:
3K miles or less: 17 (68%)
3K -
6K miles: 8 (32%)
Currently using oil additives: 0
Have used oil additives
in the past: 5 (20%)
Observations: There were 15 cases of lifter tick
described, some worse than
others. Most found the symptoms go away with
higher revs, and/or synthetic
oil after a flush. One case of warranty
replacement of lifters. Two of the
low mileage vehicles have been rebuilt.
Several comments about how fantastic
our cars are!!!
:-)
One interesting surprise for me. Out of the nine available vehicle
years,
the second generation represents 66.6%, yet 68% of the 25 respondents
own
first generation vehicles (statistically would be only 33.3%). I could
put
forth a number of hypotheses, but I've used enough bandwidth
already.
ENJOY!!!
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier
Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery,
bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum
plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer,
ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop
progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:14:57 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Oil survey results
>
> One interesting surprise for
me. Out of the nine available vehicle years,
> the second generation
represents 66.6%, yet 68% of the 25 respondents own
> first generation
vehicles (statistically would be only 33.3%). I could put
> forth a number
of hypotheses, but I've used enough bandwidth already.
How about this
one? A large percentage of the newer models (97-99) are
currently
leased by drivers who just get in and drive and who have no
particular
appreciation for the car itself. Certainly not enough to do a
WWW
search to seek out fellow 3S owners. A second owner buys the
car
because of an appreciation for the car and looks on the net for a
knowledge
base and stumbles on us!
- -Bob
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:06:49 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Blitz
BOV installation problem - help!
Matthews;
If I hadn't done it myself
once I would know about that being a potential problem,, hehe
so we are in
the boat together,, don't feel bad,, easy oversight.
John
Matthews
wrote:
> John wrote:
> >
> > Just a thought,, check
to make sure your MAS is plugged in.
> >
> >
John
>
> Boy, that's embarrassing!
>
> Sorry about
that... When I reinstalled the MAS the cable ended up
> underneath where I
couldn't see it and I forgot to plug it in. Then I
> concentrated on
the BOV connections since I thought that's all that had
> changed!
What a moron. And now my mechanical deficiencies have been
>
immortalized in the list archives! This is why I tend to avoid
doing
> ANYTHING mechanical myself. Really
frustrating...
>
> THANX SO MUCH!!!!!
John Adams 91
3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center: http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:32:21 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Adjustment Problems
Bob, Shouldnt the bleeder be closed when
letting the pedal out, as it will
suck air back into the system.
I was under the impression that you open
the bleeder on the downstroke to
expell the air. Close it, then let the
pedal up slowly to draw fluid from the
reservoir.
Bob
93 stealth TT
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, January 20, 1999 1:41 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Adjustment
Problems
You just need to bleed the slave
>cylinder. Pump
the clutch rapidly a dozen times. Then, open up the
>reservoir and
bleeder screw. Pump once and let out very slowly.
Have
>someone add fluid while you let the pedal out. When the pedal
is all the
>way out, tighten the bleeder screw. Repeat.
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:40:52 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Clutch Adjustment Problems
Yes. I wrote it backwards
(but not on purpose). Not the first mistake I
made today. I'm
sorry if that caused a problem.
- -Bob
> Bob, Shouldnt
the bleeder be closed when letting the pedal out,
> as it will
>
suck air back into the system. I was under the impression that you
open
> the bleeder on the downstroke to expell the air. Close it, then let
the
> pedal up slowly to draw fluid from the reservoir.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:55:52 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch
Adjustment Problems
No Problem, Just didnt want the original poster
to do the air clutch mod :)
Later, Bob
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Wednesday, January 20, 1999 10:46 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Clutch Adjustment
Problems
>Yes. I wrote it backwards (but not on
purpose). Not the first mistake I
>made today. I'm sorry if
that caused a problem.
>
>-Bob
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:17:45 -0700
From: "james berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw:
suspension --- springs [Barry King]
>
>
>>Mr. Kings
choice of spring rates, 550 # in front and 350 # in the rear
>sounds bone
rattling.
>> ------ anybody know what the stock rate is ??? I
would like to
>>modify my 93 TT to handle better [ e.g.. GAB shocks and
ground control
>>adjustable spring seats ] but 550 # sounds like a lot.
Have you driven the
>>car yet and if so could you give me an idea of
ride quality.
>>
>>Jim berry [fastmax] ---- currently bone
stock, 93, "arrest me red"
stealth.
>>fastmax@home.com
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:42:46 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Fw: suspension --- springs [Barry King]
FWIW: I drove a supra
with 1000# springs on every corner, (with road race
tires on it) the
ride was quite surprising. I would not worry
about
550/350lb springs if you like a controlled ride.
>
Brad
>
> Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of james berry
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 9:18 PM
To:
team 3si
Subject: Team3S: Fw: suspension --- springs [Barry
King]
>
>
>>Mr. Kings choice of spring rates,
550 # in front and 350 # in the rear
>sounds bone rattling.
>>
------ anybody know what the stock rate is ??? I would like
to
>>modify my 93 TT to handle better [ e.g.. GAB shocks and ground
control
>>adjustable spring seats ] but 550 # sounds like a lot. Have
you driven the
>>car yet and if so could you give me an idea of ride
quality.
>>
>>Jim berry [fastmax] ---- currently bone stock,
93, "arrest me red"
stealth.
>>fastmax@home.com
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:56:42 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fw: suspension --- springs [Barry King]
No, I have not driven the
car. Hopefully early February. I am curious who
made the "bone
rattling" assessment? Hehe.
My advice first off is to talk to Jay
at GC. He's the man. Stock spring
rates are around 200 lbs for
the front!! I have had motorcycles with more
spring.
Consider a
touring class road course car. Race rates are close to 1000 lbs
on the
front. Consider now that the weight of a VR4 is nearly 4000 lbs
with
fluids and a driver, if not more. Given a nearly 60/40 front to
rear weight
bias that places a rather conservative 2400 lbs on the front of
the car, or
1200 lbs a corner. The 550 lb springs are starting to sound
conservative
aren't they. The fact is that 550 is still
conservative. Consumers are
used to plush cushy rides which are VERY
poor at handling the car's weight
during aggressive driving.
You need
to decide what you really want from the car. If you want a cushy
ride,
stick with stock or get some off the shelf springs that ride nice.
But don't
expect outrageous handling at the upper extreme. If you
want
performance and a reasonable ride compromises must be made. What
can be
said?
In any case, I'd prefer to do it right. Lowering
springs are not the right
way. Adjustable height springs are. GC
can give you adjustable height
springs with a cushy ride if you want to go
that way. Jay should be able to
help you decide what is going to work
if you ask the right questions.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> >>Mr. Kings choice of spring rates, 550
# in front and 350 # in the rear
> >sounds bone rattling.
>
>> ------ anybody know what the stock rate is ??? I would like
to
> >>modify my 93 TT to handle better [ e.g.. GAB shocks and
ground control
> >>adjustable spring seats ] but 550 # sounds like a
lot. Have you
> driven the
> >>car yet and if so could you
give me an idea of ride quality.
> >>
> >>Jim berry
[fastmax] ---- currently bone stock, 93, "arrest me red"
>
stealth.
> >>fastmax@home.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:19:00 -0500
From: Ron Thompson <rtetetet@earthlink.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
I was playing on the way home tonight
and decided
to stick my foot into the old HP and and scoot up
the turns on
the back road. There's a hard right
hander into a side road that's off camber
and a
little more than 90 degrees. No braking, set up,
turn in and
accelerate out under the bridge to the
next right hander, a little flatter
and less than
90 degrees. WOT about 3/4's through the rear end
decides
it's much faster than the front and starts
around. OK, stay in it and steer
in... nope still
coming, and fast. I feel the knuckles tighten, a
pucker
in the bottom of the seat, and an
uncharactoristic 'FULL' lift off the long
thin
pedal on the right. Ah, are you still driving or
just watching
here?(this is the part where you
laugh Darcy. But it still supports what I
said.)
Well the car slides a little more then snaps back
the other way.
Jees this thing's heavy. There goes
my Val 1, guess the suction cups weren't
stuck.
Steer the other way and it swings back. I'm doing
this quick but,
not quite got the timing. (driver
lag) Anybody done a mod for a driver BOV
&
attention boost controller?
Back and forth, back and forth. Flat
grass for 10'
then embankment on the right, flat grass for 30'
then ditch
on the left. This could suck soon if
you haven't noticed. Hey doofas, try the
pedal
again, you know traction, when in doubt gas it.
Give it gas and keep
flipping the wheel and away
we go, straight up the road. Ahhhhh,
muscle
tension is releasing, pulse rate stabilizing.
adrenaline after
glow.
What did we learn here?
My car is too much fun.
Underwear
are cheap, replace when dirty.
80% of life is paying attention.
Like most
performance cars 'NEVER step all the way
off the gas.
White knuckles &
butt pucker will get you into
trouble.
Your car sticks like it's on rails
most of the
time, be prepared for when she let's loose, she
will and you
need to drive it out.
The car is heavy and inertia pushes the car
hard
when it let's loose.
This really threw the car around side to side
for
a bit which leads to
over correction and throws your counter
steering
timing off. hehehehe
(Especially when it takes you by surprise,
then
you do something stupid)
Water on asphalt reduces traction, 'NEVER'
hot dog
on cold tires.
The throttle is a steering devise, don't
ignore
it.
Engage brain and attention span before
turbo
boost.
Hope you liked my ride and learned something,
I
did!
Ron
New driver awareness mod
96 VR4
K&N Valentine
1
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:34:39 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
Ehhhh...loved the description...damned
near poetry...felt like I was there instead of
you. In fact, I'm sure it was
me.
We all need this kind of graphic reminder so we don't become too
comfortable with our
shiny rides. They look and handle super...but there are
times when they/we can scare the
begezzers outa ourselves. Complacency is
best reserved for the long snooze. Thanks again
for the super verbal
graphics. The color is just creeping back into my knuckles ;
)
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 20 Jan 1999 23:17:21 -0800
From: "Scott Alcaide" <salcaide@sprintlabs.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
A simple question - I always thought
the proper move in a bad situation was
to CLUTCH, ie put no load - dragging
or accelerating - on the
traction-deficient tires. And countersteer, pucker,
pray, etc, but NOT press
the gas. Any comments?
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Ron Thompson
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 9:19 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
I was playing on the way home
tonight and decided
to stick my foot into the old HP and and scoot up
the
turns on the back road...................
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:12:57 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
> A simple question - I always
thought the proper move in a bad situation was
> to CLUTCH, ie put no load
- dragging or accelerating - on the
> traction-deficient tires. And
countersteer, pucker, pray, etc, but NOT press
> the gas. Any
comments?
This is correct. On the track I was able to get out of any
danger swinging
situation by shortly pressing the clutch until it feels good
again while keeping
the rpms over 3000. Also helping with a slight braking
but still on the gas
during this situation is one of the best methods but not
easy as the pedals are
not made for "heel and toe" in our
cars.
Enjoy,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:24:02 +0100
From: "=?Windows-1252?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
Yes, the clutch can be a good thing to
use when you are in trouble.
BUT if you use it your car handles exactly
like any other car without AWD (bad). So to get the advantage that our cars have
over the others then you better use it instead of the clutch.
For example
if you under steer (plowing) in a curve then just release the gas a little
bit to bring the front end in (or you can use the clutch for a very short
time) and then give gas (Not WOT). this will result in more traction and
stearing and the rear will swing out a bit. This way you have used the AWD
instead of "disconnected" it with the clutch.
Someone said a few weeks
ago that he have been testing the limits at a big parking lot. I suggest that
you all go out and play on a big parking lot tonight and you will be a
much better driver tomorrow. (try to avoid the lamp posts!!!)
Mikael
Akesson (driving in snow every day and love it!)
From: Scott Alcaide
<salcaide@sprintlabs.com>
>A
simple question - I always thought the proper move in a bad situation
was
>to CLUTCH, ie put no load - dragging or accelerating - on
the
>traction-deficient tires. And countersteer, pucker, pray, etc, but
NOT press
>the gas. Any comments?
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 02:33:19 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Well that was fun...
It depends. With an AWD vehicle and in a
situation where the rears have let
loose but the fronts are still planted,
applying power and judicous steering
input can bring the back end back in
line. The same technique may well not
work in a RWD vehicle however
since you've already lost traction and
spinning the rears may allow the polar
momentum to work against you. Some
power to the rears in that case
*may* help though as long as you don't
exceed the traction budget. It
depends on the nature of the slide, where
you are in the corner (if it is a
corner), weight biasing at the time and so
on. Steering with the
throttle is key to driving very fast.
With WWD you can often get away
with hanging the rear end out a LOT and
steering with the throttle since
applying power and spinning the front
wheels will of course have no real
negative effect on rear traction.
One thing you can do with AWD that has
much less benefit with RWD or WWD is
steering with the brakes. You can
often go far deeper into a corner with
AWD and use the brakes in a similar
fashion to throttle steering except in
reverse (sort of <g>) to assist
in directing the car. Attempting this with
non-AWD often ends up in
locking up one corner much earlier than desired.
Personally I would only
disengage the clutch under extreme situations like
perhaps glare ice.
Applying power to match wheel speed to ground speed is
best since that
increases available traction and gives the driver more
options to control
traction.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> A simple question - I always thought the proper move in a
bad
> situation was
> to CLUTCH, ie put no load - dragging or
accelerating - on the
> traction-deficient tires. And countersteer,
pucker, pray, etc,
> but NOT press
> the gas. Any
comments?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:43:03 -0500
From: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
I would think the more sideways you are,
the less help the clutch
would do. In an extreme example, you could be
completely sideways and
the clutch would do nothing, but gassing it may get
you through the
turn. I would also think that when fishtailing in a fwd
car, or an awd
where the front it getting more torque, then gassing would get
you
through the turn easier. I'd agree that in most circumstances,
clutch
would help more, but not all circumstances.
Jason
>
> > A simple question - I always thought the proper move in a bad
situation was
> > to CLUTCH, ie put no load - dragging or accelerating
- on the
> > traction-deficient tires. And countersteer, pucker, pray,
etc, but NOT press
> > the gas. Any comments?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:42:03 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Regrinding the
Cam pros & con question.
What's the current info on the advisability
of regrinding the Cam?
I'm told new material can be added & its then
reground.
Is a new Billet Cam worth the added cost?
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:53:19 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
I don't think
there is any problem with having a cam reground - but there
is alot to be
considered in changing the cam profiles. First - are you wanting
to do the
intake, exhaust, or both? Do you know what results you want
(specifically -
inprovement in low/ midrange torque, increased rpm, ect ) and
also
decide how much driveability you are willing to sacrifice to get it - and
do
you know what the final configuration of your engine is going to be? (
ex-
making modifications to the engine such as bigger turbos or different
exhaust
should be done before / along with the cams - preferably so that
everything is
matched.
Choosing a cam profile is an area where you
can benifit from an experts help
- - at least someone who has done it in a
similar engine / vehicle. There is
alot to be lost if the proper cam profile
for your exact engine setup isn't
chosen.
SteveC
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:27:37 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
I would
imagine the cost of adding material (welding would be the only way)
then
regrinding then re-tempering would be way more costly than buying a new
cam.
Just the re-tempering alone would be more than the
price of a new cam at a secondary
market establishment.
A lot of manufacturers today are grinding new cams out of hex stock and then
they
temper them. This to me would be one less step vs welding and then
regrinding and
tempering.
I would think the only time
you would go with something like that would be to set up
a cam lobe that
isn't available on the open market like in a specialty engineering
shop.
John
Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
> What's the current info on the advisability of regrinding the
Cam?
> I'm told new material can be added & its then reground.
>
Is a new Billet Cam worth the added cost?
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
John Adams 91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center: http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:54:42 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
Wrong. Regrinds can be
had for $50 a stick. New off the shelf cams for
common engines start
around $150. For cams that do not exist and must be
developed from
scracth, you will pay upwards of $3000 for the first
set...Furthermore, that
first set is likely not to work since said cam does
not yet
exist.
This is an area researched by at least two if not more people on
this list
over the last 12-18 months. Bottom line is that it will costs
a LOT of
money to develop the first set of cams that work and even subsequent
sets
would be very expensive.
To top it all off, the stock cams
actually work extremely well. No
worthwhile or significant HP gains can
be had without making radical cam
profile changes which would require major
rework of the heads and supporting
valve
train.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> I would imagine the cost of adding
material (welding would be
> the only way) then
> regrinding then
re-tempering would be way more costly than buying
> a new
cam.
> Just the re-tempering alone would be more
than the price of a
> new cam at a secondary
> market
establishment.
> A lot of manufacturers today are
grinding new cams out of hex
> stock and then they
> temper them.
This to me would be one less step vs welding and
> then regrinding
and
> tempering.
> I would think the only
time you would go with something like
> that would be to set up
> a
cam lobe that isn't available on the open market like in a
> specialty
engineering shop.
>
> John
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:56:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
I'm not sure I agree with
this statement: welding isn't the only way, and
may not be the best.
HVOF-type finishes are probably suitable for this,
as they are becoming quite
common in high-wear situations. (Who's gonna
be the first to ask what
HVOF is?)
HVOF is a specialized "flame-spray" metal coating, noted for
it's wear
durability. It is also "greener" than chemical coatings, like
hard chrome
plating. Also, they would require no tempering after being
refinished.
One caveat, however, is the limit on how thickly you can buildup
with
HVOF. It may not be sufficient for this application.
You
can also get attractive cosmetic finishes by this process. That may
be
of most interest.
Here are some web sites for more info:
http://members.aol.com/getscc/hvof.htm
http://dol1.eng.sunysb.edu/tsl/thermal/article1.html
(this is a huge
document)
Hope this helps
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Change is disruptive
- but that's the point!
On Thu, 21 Jan 1999, John
wrote:
> I would imagine the cost of adding
material (welding would be the
> only way) then
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:24:43 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
At 09:42 AM
1/21/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I'm told new material can be added & its
then reground.
>Is a new Billet Cam worth the added cost?
Companies
have been regrinding cams for years. It's a reliable process that
many people
have used. However, the advantage to using new blanks is, if
you choose a
profile that doesnt work, you can swap them back and forth
with the originals
(regrinding the former blanks) until you find a profile
that does work. You
always have the originals to fall back on. Notice that
iv'e been referring to
these as "blanks" vs. "billet". These days,
companies use the word billet to
justify an inflated cost, because when
someone hears the word billet, the
first thing that comes to mind is a
beautiful chunck of CNC (which is another
acronym that translates to "lets
charge more") machined aluminum that has
been anodized. Refer to them as
blanks, you might be surprised at the
difference in price. A typical blank
should cost around $100, assuming blanks
are even available for this engine.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:08:01 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Well that was fun...
This is what they taught us at skip
barber.
If the rear of your car is braking loose aceleration will
transfer
weight to the rear tires and plant them immediately. (Trust me
this
manuever has saved me many a slides in the past). If the front
is
breaking loose the opposite is true. Braking will regain
traction. It
will make your counter-steer instant, and you will launch
off in
whatever direction the wheels are facing just watch you steering
angles,
when braking out of a skid. If your skid is too far sideways
they
always told us "In spin both feet in" after a going past 135 Degress
let
loose in the throttle steering into the skid, 225 deg then crank
the
wheel back the other way. clutch and brake again, the past 315
degrees
let loose again. It'll pull you right out. Try it.
We had to do it in
a dodge dakota. It was really fun.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:23:15 -0500
From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
Arty, I have some
experience with cams, not on our cars, but with big block
engines in my
earlier years.
1. you must profile the type of performance you want from
your car ie:
. drag strip times
.
road race
. top end salt flats
. all
around little bit of everything
2. Be satisfied that when you cam
to the max for your desired profile that
is all you should expect from the
car. Performance in other areas will
totally suck.
3. If
you go for a full drag type grind, dont expect to be able to drive
the car on
the street without the feeling that it sucks in traffic. It will
run like
gold for that 10 sec at the track, but all who ride with you in the
street
will think your car needs a tune up.
4. If the grinds dont exist
for your profile, expect to try and try till
you get what you want. Build a
relationship with a shop that wants to sell
what you test or get your wallet
out.
5. All in all, I would rate the stock cams in our cars as very good.
They
produce a nice wide band of performance.
6. Plan on spending
money for the valve train, as you push the edge on
duration and lift, you
have to close those valves with "authority". This
requires stouter springs
and retainers least you suck the valve. If these
upgrades dont exist for
these engines you can plan on spending more money to
have the upgrade
manufactured.
7. Work out your total design criteria on paper first so
you can evaluate
all the associated costs to get what you want. When you
implement cam
changes, you envolve the entire engines valve, compression, rpm
range and
fuel system.
Good luck,
Bob
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com <Aso8@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc:
Aso8@aol.com <Aso8@aol.com>
Date: Thursday, January 21,
1999 9:43 AM
Subject: Team3S: Regrinding the Cam pros & con
question.
>What's the current info on the advisability of
regrinding the Cam?
>I'm told new material can be added & its then
reground.
>Is a new Billet Cam worth the added cost?
>Arty 91
VR-4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:18:32 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
Interesting. I have never had
any experience with a regrind. At $50 a stick it would be
worthwhile. I
suppose you are referring to original regrind with same lobes. What do
they
build them up with? Like I said, I imagined. I am picturing in my mind a
person
building up the lobe with a weld. This would not be done quickly and
labor is after all
money. I would also imagine having that much welding done
as costing over $50 by itself.
Then, welding removes temper, so they must be
heated and tempered to the correct
Rockwell or they would wear quickly. The
process must be different than I am imagining,
enlighten
me.
John
"Barry E. King" wrote:
> Wrong. Regrinds
can be had for $50 a stick. New off the shelf cams for
> common
engines start around $150. For cams that do not exist and must be
>
developed from scracth, you will pay upwards of $3000 for the first
>
set...Furthermore, that first set is likely not to work since said cam
does
> not yet exist.
>
> This is an area researched by at
least two if not more people on this list
> over the last 12-18
months. Bottom line is that it will costs a LOT of
> money to
develop the first set of cams that work and even subsequent sets
> would
be very expensive.
>
> To top it all off, the stock cams actually
work extremely well. No
> worthwhile or significant HP gains can be
had without making radical cam
> profile changes which would require major
rework of the heads and supporting
> valve train.
>
>
Regards,
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> > I would imagine the cost of
adding material (welding would be
> > the only way) then
> >
regrinding then re-tempering would be way more costly than buying
> > a
new cam.
> > Just the re-tempering alone would
be more than the price of a
> > new cam at a secondary
> >
market establishment.
> > A lot of
manufacturers today are grinding new cams out of hex
> > stock and then
they
> > temper them. This to me would be one less step vs welding
and
> > then regrinding and
> > tempering.
>
> I would think the only time you would go with
something like
> > that would be to set up
> > a cam lobe that
isn't available on the open market like in a
> > specialty engineering
shop.
> >
> > John
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
John Adams 91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center:
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:23:21 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
It sounds like you are not
quite sure HVOF would work, so we can't consider it unless we
know for a fact
it does. What other process were you thinking of that made you think
welding
wasn't the only answer. Plating would also take many coats, so what
else?
John
Dennis Moore wrote:
> I'm not sure I agree
with this statement: welding isn't the only way, and
> may not be the
best. HVOF-type finishes are probably suitable for this,
> as they
are becoming quite common in high-wear situations. (Who's gonna
> be
the first to ask what HVOF is?)
>
> HVOF is a specialized
"flame-spray" metal coating, noted for it's wear
> durability. It is
also "greener" than chemical coatings, like hard chrome
> plating.
Also, they would require no tempering after being refinished.
> One
caveat, however, is the limit on how thickly you can buildup with
>
HVOF. It may not be sufficient for this application.
>
> You
can also get attractive cosmetic finishes by this process. That
may
> be of most interest.
>
> Here are some web sites for
more info:
> http://members.aol.com/getscc/hvof.htm
>
http://dol1.eng.sunysb.edu/tsl/thermal/article1.html
(this is a huge
> document)
- --
John Adams 91
3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center: http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:41:43 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
-
--------------2ADA0E5DFC3744D23F8CB462
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
In checking out the
page on HVOF, (High Velocity Oxygen Fuel) It isn't a coating but a
process
for applying coatings, much the same as compressed air is used for sandblasting
with
the injection (by vacuum in this case) sand. In comparison to LVOF it
can spray thicker
coatings, however it makes no mention of cams. It goes on
to say both processes can spray
any type of coating as long as it doesn't
decompose before melting. The powder is injected
into the stream using high
pressure. It seems like a new process and probably is pretty
expensive till
it becomes more widely used.
John
> Dennis Moore
wrote:
>
> > I'm not sure I agree with this statement: welding
isn't the only way, and
> > may not be the best. HVOF-type
finishes are probably suitable for this,
> > as they are becoming quite
common in high-wear situations. (Who's gonna
> > be the first to
ask what HVOF is?)
> >
> > HVOF is a specialized "flame-spray"
metal coating, noted for it's wear
> > durability. It is also
"greener" than chemical coatings, like hard chrome
> > plating.
Also, they would require no tempering after being refinished.
> > One
caveat, however, is the limit on how thickly you can buildup with
> >
HVOF. It may not be sufficient for this application.
> >
>
> You can also get attractive cosmetic finishes by this process. That
may
> > be of most interest.
> >
> > Here are some
web sites for more info:
> > http://members.aol.com/getscc/hvof.htm
>
> http://dol1.eng.sunysb.edu/tsl/thermal/article1.html
(this is a huge
> > document)
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
John Adams 91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center:
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
-
--------------2ADA0E5DFC3744D23F8CB462
Content-Type: text/html;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
<!doctype html
public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
In
checking out the page on HVOF, (High Velocity Oxygen Fuel) It isn't
a coating
but a process for applying coatings, much the same as compressed
air is used
for sandblasting with the injection (by vacuum in this case)
sand. In
comparison to LVOF it can spray thicker coatings, however it makes
no mention
of cams. It goes on to say both processes can spray any type
of coating as
long as it doesn't decompose before melting. The powder is
injected into the
stream using high pressure. It seems like a new process
and probably is
pretty expensive till it becomes more widely
used.
<p>John
<br>
<blockquote
TYPE=CITE>Dennis Moore wrote:
<p>> I'm not sure I agree with this
statement: welding isn't the only way,
and
<br>> may not be the
best. HVOF-type finishes are probably suitable
for
this,
<br>> as they are becoming quite common in high-wear
situations.
(Who's gonna
<br>> be the first to ask what
HVOF is?)
<br>>
<br>> HVOF is a specialized
"flame-spray" metal coating, noted for it's
wear
<br>>
durability. It is also "greener" than chemical coatings, like
hard
chrome
<br>> plating. Also, they would require no
tempering after being
refinished.
<br>> One caveat, however, is
the limit on how thickly you can buildup
with
<br>>
HVOF. It may not be sufficient for this
application.
<br>>
<br>> You can also get attractive
cosmetic finishes by this process.
That may
<br>> be of
most interest.
<br>>
<br>> Here are some web sites for
more info:
<br>> <a
href="http://members.aol.com/getscc/hvof.htm">http://members.aol.com/getscc/hvof.htm</a>
<br>>
<a href="http://dol1.eng.sunysb.edu/tsl/thermal/article1.html">http://dol1.eng.sunysb.edu/tsl/thermal/article1.html</a>
(this
is a huge
<br>> document)
<br><a
href="http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm"></a>
<p>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is <a
href="http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm">http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm</a></blockquote>
<p>--
<p>John
Adams 91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
<br>John's Repair Center:
<A HREF="http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm">http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm</A>
<br>My
Sportscar Pages: <A HREF="http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm">http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm</A>
<br>Florida
Gathering: <A HREF="http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm">http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm</A>
<br>Cape
Cod Quickening: <A HREF="http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm">http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm</A>
<br>Atlanta
Gathering: <A
HREF="http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm">http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm</A>
<br> </html>
-
--------------2ADA0E5DFC3744D23F8CB462--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 20:04:20 +0100
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Which could it be: Clutch or Trans...
Hmm... Was running low on
the good stuff (gas) and decided
to head into a petrol station. On my
way in I notice a
fairly audible BANG! and seem to have lost all
gears...
I had the clutch checked less than a week ago (with
the
standard warrentee service check).
The car will not move.
Whenever I attempt to shift into
gear (1st, 2nd, 3rd) to get the thing
rolling all I hear
is a horrible combination of scraping/grinding (no
movement).
Needless to say the car is currently sitting out side
the
local Mitsi dealer (after having to insist on a flatbed).
They
will not have time to look at it for a while, but what
could I be expecting
to find? I would have throught it was
the clutch assembly as it has
taken out all gears...
Any thoughts
Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91
GTO-VR4 <-- Currently slowest in the country
:(
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:26:55 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Which could it be: Clutch or Trans...
4 things that have gone
BANG on my car, disabling it at one time or another:
1. Grenaded
transfer case
2. Stripped output shaft
3. Busted pressure
plate
4. Busted flywheel
#1 or #2 are the most likely.
-
-Bob
'93 VR-4 NGK BCPR6ES copper plugs gapped .032
/
hole-blown-in-rear-timing-cover mod
> Hmm... Was running low on
the good stuff (gas) and decided
> to head into a petrol station. On
my way in I notice a
> fairly audible BANG! and seem to have lost all
gears...
>
> I had the clutch checked less than a week ago (with
the
> standard warrentee service check).
>
> The car will not
move. Whenever I attempt to shift into
> gear (1st, 2nd, 3rd) to get
the thing rolling all I hear
> is a horrible combination of
scraping/grinding (no movement).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:40:18 -0600
From: "David B. Kopacz" <kopacz@vss.fsi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Question Concerning "Well that was fun..."
Great story, Ron.
But
just to satisfy my morbid curiosity... What kind of tires do you
have on that
beast?
David
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:41:35 -0600
From: "David B. Kopacz" <kopacz@vss.fsi.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Another Question Concerning "Well that was fun..."
On Thursday, January
21, 1999,
Barry E. King [beking@home.com] writes:
BEK> With
WWD you can often get away with hanging the rear end out a
BEK> LOT and
steering with the throttle since applying power and
BEK> spinning the
front wheels will of course have no real negative
BEK> effect on rear
traction.
BEK> One thing you can do with AWD that has much less
benefit with
BEK> RWD or WWD is steering with the
brakes.
Barry,
Pardon my ignorance, but what's
WWD?
Thanks!
David
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:48:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Another Question Concerning "Well that was fun..."
Hehe.
S'okay.
"Wrong Wheel Drive" which is what some people call FWD (Front
Wheel Drive)
configurations. Also, transversely mounted engines are
sometimes referred
to as being "mounted the wrong
way".
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> On Thursday, January 21, 1999,
> Barry E. King [beking@home.com] writes:
>
>
BEK> With WWD you can often get away with hanging the rear end out a
>
BEK> LOT and steering with the throttle since applying power and
>
BEK> spinning the front wheels will of course have no real negative
>
BEK> effect on rear traction.
>
> BEK> One thing you can do
with AWD that has much less benefit with
> BEK> RWD or WWD is steering
with the brakes.
>
> Barry,
>
> Pardon my ignorance, but
what's WWD?
>
> Thanks!
>
>
> David
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:55:30 -0800
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Another Question Concerning "Well that was fun..."
On Jan 21, Barry E.
King said:
> Hehe. S'okay.
>
> "Wrong Wheel Drive"
which is what some people call FWD (Front Wheel Drive)
>
configurations. Also, transversely mounted engines are sometimes
referred
> to as being "mounted the wrong way".
Aren't they mounted
that way so power could be transferred to the driving
wheels in an easy
manner? I guess the VR-4 coulda gone either way, but the
SL/Base/RT
cars are better-off mounted the wrong way. right?
The NSX has a
transverse-mounted engine. Hm...dunno about the Porsche.
-
-sankar
- --
*******************************************************************************
Improve
a mechanical device and you may double productivity. But
improve
man, you gain a thousandfold.
-- Khan Noonian Singh,
"Space Seed," stardate
3142.8.
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:45:43 EST
From: GC3000GT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Which could it be: Clutch or Trans...
In a message dated 1/21/99 11:00:26
AM Pacific Standard Time,
Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz
writes:
<< The car will not move. Whenever I attempt to shift
into
gear (1st, 2nd, 3rd) to get the thing rolling all I
hear
is a horrible combination of scraping/grinding (no movement).
>>
This happened to me when they first installed my new
clutch. They said "Ok,
car's all set! Come one down". Well
- after I paid them the $800 for the new
clutch, I attempted to drive away,
and couldn't get into gear. I heard
probably the same grinding and
scraping noise you're hearing. They said it
was a mis-alligned cylinder
rod. Thats all I know. They fixed it within a
half hour.
Hope this helped,
Gregg
http://members.tripod.com/gcouture/3000GT
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:57:36 EST
From: Lomcevak@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Another Question Concerning "Well that was fun..."
In a message dated
99-01-21 14:49:13 EST, you write:
<< "Wrong Wheel Drive" which is
what some people call FWD (Front Wheel Drive)
configurations.
Also, transversely mounted engines are sometimes referred
to as being
"mounted the wrong way".
>>
WWD (wrong wheel drive)
is also sometimes reffered to as ALIHSWD (at least it
has some-wheel-drive)
by AWD owners waiting on Getrag parts.
SteveC
'91 3000GT
SL
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:06:02 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
I've never rebuilt/redesigned
a cam for an automotive engine, so I'm not
intimate with *every*
consideration for that application. I *have*
redesigned hydraulic motor
shaft seal interfaces, where high pressures,
high contamination, high
corrosion, and infrequent operation of the
systems were involved. We
changed to an HVOF metal surface, and
dramatically improved the life
expectancy of the motors.
We assessed and dismissed weld-cladding,
hard-chrome plating, and ceramic
coating.
HVOF is being used for
ship-shafts, jet engine components, and other
high-temp/high-stress
applications, so it can't be dismissed out of hand
for use on cams.
To
be blunt, I have no personal plans to change my cams, so I'm
not
particularily interested in doing a lot of research into whether or
not
HVOF is workable for this application. I merely offered it as
an
alternative for someone who *is* getting ready to dive into cam
upgrades.
Hope it helps.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Change is disruptive
- but that's the point!
On Thu, 21 Jan 1999, John wrote:
> It
sounds like you are not quite sure HVOF would work, so we can't
> consider
it unless we know for a fact it does. What other process were
> you
thinking of that made you think welding wasn't the only answer.
> Plating
would also take many coats, so what else?
>
> John
>
> Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> > I'm not sure I agree with
this statement: welding isn't the only way, and
> > may not be the
best. HVOF-type finishes are probably suitable for this,
> > as
they are becoming quite common in high-wear situations. (Who's
gonna
> > be the first to ask what HVOF is?)
> >
>
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:05:50 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Another Question Concerning "Well that was fun..."
Hey
Barry;
I wouldn't bite. Someone did. You should get an admin warning for
suckering people : ) :
) ; )
Darc
Barry E. King
wrote:
> Hehe. S'okay.
>
> "Wrong Wheel Drive" which
is what some people call FWD (Front Wheel Drive)
> configurations.
Also, transversely mounted engines are sometimes referred
> to as being
"mounted the wrong way".
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:09:11 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
Actually, it's not
particularily new, nor expensive. In fact, it's
generally less than
hard-chrome plating.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Change is disruptive
- but that's the point!
On Thu, 21 Jan 1999, John
wrote:
[snip]
> powder is injected into the stream using high pressure.
It seems like a
> new process and probably is pretty expensive till it
becomes more widely
> used.
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:19:39 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
John, Please
leave post like this off our list. Ideas come from people
thinking
together for a common goal. If you would like to belittle someone
for
there Idea .. please take it to the Dragnet list.
I hate sorting through
mail that puts down ideas of others.
Brian
AKA Gammara
-
-----Original Message-----
From: John [SMTP:adams@icx.net]
Sent: Thursday,
January 21, 1999 1:23 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Regrinding the Cam pros & con question.
It sounds like
you are not quite sure HVOF would work, so we can't consider
it unless
we
know for a fact it does. What other process were you thinking of that made
you think
welding wasn't the only answer. Plating would also take many
coats, so what
else?
John
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #79
***************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm