--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #77
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Tuesday,
January 19 1999 Volume 01 : Number
077
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:02:30 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Nose Guard in the rain??
- -----Original
Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Friday, January 15, 1999 2:00 PM
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
Team3S: Nose Guard in the rain??
So anyone have a definitive answer
about the effects of leaving a nose guard
(bra) on after it gets wet?
<snip>
-
--Erik
==================================
Erik...
Once a bra,
always a bra. I had one on two previous vehicles (one black, one
silver),
five years each. The paint wear was VERY noticeable on the black
car, less on
the silver. Would've required painting to correct the wear.
Still, one could
argue, if you're not going to have it on when the roads are
wet and there's
gravel from recent snows, what's the point in having one
at
all?
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:13:48 PST
From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
I have never heard of an
aftermarket sunroof installer modifying the
supports of the car as part of
the installation.
You will find that if you hve an after market roof,
most shops will not
install new suspension components because of the
potential for out of
spec "roll". Even the tops added by a dealer are
aftermarket.
A car that comes with a top from the factory does have added
supports in
the car as to not effect the body
roll.
Eric
>Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:19:03 -0700
>From:
Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
>To:
Technical List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject:
Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>When
they added the sunroof option for the 2g 3S, did they have to
>stiffen the
body anywhere to make up for a lack in rigidity? The
reason
>I
ask is that I am considering a sunroof, or removable panel or
somthing
>for my 91 VR4. I won't do it if I'm going to loose the
rigidity. I am
>considering suspension mods also.
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 23:11:58 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: ECU, was Awesome Weekend, and new times!
> Although Brian and
GT Alley are gone, you can still get a G-Force ECU.
> Just check out http://www.g-force-engr.com. One of
the G-Force
> engineers made a post to the starnet list last April.
I could send it
> or repost it to anyone interested.
.. and of
course other shops like Nexus does have them :
http://www.nexusmotorsports.com/
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Ready: GT-Alley 368S Turbos,front mount IC/ stainless
steel piping,G-Force ECU
(3 EPROMS),fuel pump,VPC,GCC,720 Injectors,Blitz
Filter/GT-Alley VPC adapter,
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:11:27 -0800
From: Ryan Peterson <rpeterson@rh2.com>
Subject: Team3S:
RE: Sunroof
I have an aftermarket electric sunroof from ASC. Leaves
about 6" of
original roof on all 4 sides. Car still feels
rock-solid.
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:19:03 -0700
From: Andrew
Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
When they added the sunroof option
for the 2g 3S, did they have to
stiffen the body anywhere to make up for a
lack in rigidity? The reason
I ask is that I am considering a sunroof,
or removable panel or somthing
for my 91 VR4. I won't do it if I'm
going to loose the rigidity. I am
considering suspension mods
also.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 23:22:34 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
In Europe, they removed the
sunroof option that was standard on the first
generation.
To increase the
stiffness a rear strut tower bar would be a good idea. On the
tracks I often
heard the roof causing cracking sounds and still thinking about
this
mod.
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:29:47 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
can you build any kind of
reinforcements yourself? The roof I am looking at is a single
metal
piece that is removable, not a glass piece, I don't know if this makes
a
difference. Will it still loose strength when the top is
on?
Eric Lotter wrote:
> I have never heard of an aftermarket
sunroof installer modifying the
> supports of the car as part of the
installation.
>
> You will find that if you hve an after market
roof, most shops will not
> install new suspension components because of
the potential for out of
> spec "roll". Even the tops added by a dealer
are aftermarket.
>
> A car that comes with a top from the factory
does have added supports in
> the car as to not effect the body
roll.
>
> Eric
>
> >Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:19:03
-0700
> >From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
>
>To: Technical List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>
>Subject: Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
> >Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>
> >When they added the sunroof option for the 2g 3S, did they have
to
> >stiffen the body anywhere to make up for a lack in
rigidity? The
> reason
> >I ask is that I am considering a
sunroof, or removable panel or
> somthing
> >for my 91 VR4.
I won't do it if I'm going to loose the rigidity. I am
>
>considering suspension mods also.
> >
> >For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private,
Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:42:21 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little long)
Just a
general manual tranny question for anyone who knows...
I've seen a little
bit of a debate on starting/launching techniques
lately (a few snippets
included below) and how hard they are on your car.
My understanding is as
follows...when you engage the clutch(from a stopped
position), there is a
differential in speed between the engine/flywheel and
the
tranny/wheels. To overcome the differential, either a)
the
engine/flywheel must slow down (bog) on contact, b) the tranny/wheels
must
give (wheel spin or axle/tranny/driveshaft breakage), c) the clutch
must
slip, or d) a combination of the above. On a racing launch, you
want to
keep the RPMs high to stay higher on the torque curve and to keep the
turbos
spooled up in a turbo car. This results in high differential in
speed at
the clutch disc/flywheel interface. In a launch situation,
assuming you
want to minimize bogging, it seems as though you have to make a
call as to
which you like more, your tires or your clutch as one of em is
gonna
slip(more wear) if you don't break something. Therefore it would
seem that
you'd need to find the point where tradeoff between clutch and tire
slippage
results in the highest acceleration (and picking an RPM that
works).
Now for the $50,000 question: under *normal* driving
conditions(not
trying to give passengers whiplash;), which results in less
wear on your
car, a) maintaining 1200RPM or so and slipping the clutch, or b)
letting
clutch out as quickly as possible (while not giving it that much gas)
and
the bogging the engine(but not stalling;)
I've seen both
techniques used, but the latter is more common(in my
observation) on cars
with >4 cyl that can pull out of a 300RPM, clutch
engaged situation.
It would seem that bogging the engine and minimizing
clutch slippage would
minimize clutch wear and not risk spinning the tires.
It also tends to be
kinder on your passenger's vertebrae:) Are there other
adverse effects
to this situation that I'm not seeing?
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
-
------
----------
"You do not have to sit outside in the
dark.
If, however, you want to look at the
stars,
you will find that darkness
is required.
The stars neither require it nor demand
it."
--Annie Dillard
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
DSS VR4
wrote:
>the best way that i have found is
>to rev and hold it at
around 4500-5000 and once the light is about to hit
the
>3rd yellow,
let the clutch out until you feel it engaging the trans and the
>driveline
together, then let the clutch out while flooring the
throttle
(this
>takes a few runs to get it down). This will keep
your clutch wear down and
>your trans and driveline in better shape than
dropping and bogging.
> From: Errin D. Humphrey [mailto:errin@u.washington.edu]
>
*You are much WORSE off bogging off the line than spinning your
> tires
off the line! If you think about what is going on when you are
>
bogging (simply put, you're not making enough power or there is too
>
~much~ traction to get the car adequately moving) you will
> realize
that
> it is ~extremely~ hard on your driveline. It puts a lot of
> stress on all
> of your driveline components, unlike if you spin
your tires
> (even slightly)
> in which case that stress is let
"out of the system" thus
> saving your drive-
> line in those first
crucial moments of getting your car
> moving from standstill.
>
From: Errin D. Humphrey [mailto:errin@u.washington.edu]
>
Lastly if you are letting the clutch out any more slowly than
> a dump,
you
> are NOT "keep[ing] your clutch wear down". You will toast the
stock
> clutch in no time. Ask me how I know, smartguy.
"Dropping
> and bogging."
> WTF is that? The point is to drop
high enough so that you DON't BOG.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 18:02:27 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
Bob there is such a place. I had to get
3 new drive shafts for my Jeep CJ-7.
Also,
you took your front
piece to a driveshaft shop. Is that a joke or is there
really such a
thing?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:57:58 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little
long)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent:
Monday, January 18, 1999 3:42 PM
To: 'stealth@starnet.net'; 'Dragnet 3S
Mailing List'
Subject: Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a
little
long)
<snip>
I've seen both techniques used, but the
latter is more common(in my
observation) on cars with >4 cyl that can pull
out of a 300RPM, clutch
engaged situation. It would seem that bogging
the engine and minimizing
clutch slippage would minimize clutch wear and not
risk spinning the tires.
It also tends to be kinder on your passenger's
vertebrae:) Are there other
adverse effects to this situation that I'm
not seeing?
-
--Erik
<snip>
==================================
Erik...
You
seem to asking one question (what kind of launch is the least damaging
to an
engine, clutch, transmission and/or tires, but the quotes you attached
seemed
to be addressing another question (how to get the best 1/4 mile
launch).
I believe the optimum solution for achieving least wear and tear is to
buy
an automatic transmission. The internal components stand up well under
the
slippage they're designed to take, and you don't have to bog the engine
or
spin the tires to get rolling.
If you have a manual transmission
and want the least wear and tear, go for
the lowest possible rpm that won't
bog the engine when coupled with a quick
engagement. I once had a Subaru
Justy AWD on which you could dump the clutch
at idle and it would putter
merrily on it's way. Many (most?) cars require
at least 1000 rpm and some
clutch slip to get them rolling.
NOW, if you're talking about how to race
a TT 3KGT or Stealth for best 1/4
mile times, the 4500rpm launch seems to be
most effective. Wear and tear on
the clutch? Yes. On the drivetrain? Yes. On
the tires? Yes.
Hope this helps.
Looking
forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS
SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and polished throttle body, Magnecore
8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost
controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback
exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:57:36 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little
long)
For normal driving conditions, the best way to start out is to
simply ease
the clutch out in 1st gear and let it roll out. That's for
around town
driving, minimizing wear and tear and attracting the LEAST amount
of
attention from law enforcement. Save your wear and tear for the
track.
- -Bob
> Now for the $50,000 question: under
*normal* driving conditions(not
> trying to give passengers whiplash;),
which results in less wear on your
> car, a) maintaining 1200RPM or so and
slipping the clutch, or b) letting
> clutch out as quickly as possible
(while not giving it that much gas) and
> the bogging the engine(but not
stalling;) \
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 22:36:37 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little long)
One of the
largest contributing factors to premature clutch failures in normal
driving
is riding the clutch and using it as a hill holder. One needs to
learn more proficiency
in starting out on a hill without rolling back
without using the clutch to hold the car
in place till the light turns
green.
John
Bob Fontana wrote:
> For normal driving
conditions, the best way to start out is to simply ease
> the clutch out
in 1st gear and let it roll out. That's for around town
> driving,
minimizing wear and tear and attracting the LEAST amount of
> attention
from law enforcement. Save your wear and tear for the
track.
>
> -Bob
>
>
> Now for the $50,000 question:
under *normal* driving conditions(not
> > trying to give passengers
whiplash;), which results in less wear on your
> > car, a) maintaining
1200RPM or so and slipping the clutch, or b) letting
> > clutch out as
quickly as possible (while not giving it that much gas) and
> > the
bogging the engine(but not stalling;) \
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
John Adams 91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center:
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 21:45:40 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: chassis lubrication ?
Alan Monarchi GANGUS@VNET.IBM.COM wrote:
>
<snip>
> So what do they want to check for
?
>
>
Al...they check to see if you have a wallet that needs
to be lightened
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 10:59:47 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: FTC letter
I just received a call from a lawyer at the FTC.
While the government
sympathizes with our situation, the rule that they apply
to these cases is,
"If we don't do anything, will the market work?"
They reason that if this
were such a widespread problem of significant
proportion, that Mitsubishi
would conclude that their transaxle parts policy
is a bad business practice
that is harming their position in the marketplace
and would, without
governmental intervention, retract that policy. A
relationship between
Mitsubishi and Getrag does not provide the same
potential for price-fixing
as a relationship between, say, Mitsubishi and
Toyota. Therefore, they
decline to get involved.
-
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:04:33 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: FTC letter
Bob;
Bumber!! So let's take it to the next
step. I say "let us". Do you have or can you get
the Mitsu and Getrag e-mail
addresses and we can "all" separately use them and start to
deluge the two
guilty pariteis here with e-mail...and maybe cc the FTC while we are at
it.
We are organized into a pretty compact and focused group, and if we act that
way
with this campaign, maybe we can cure this
illness!
Best
Darc
Bob Fontana wrote:
> I just
received a call from a lawyer at the FTC. While the government
>
sympathizes with our situation, the rule that they apply to these cases
is,
> "If we don't do anything, will the market work?" They reason
that if this
> were such a widespread problem of significant proportion,
that Mitsubishi
> would conclude that their transaxle parts policy is a
bad business practice
> that is harming their position in the marketplace
and would, without
> governmental intervention, retract that policy.
A relationship between
> Mitsubishi and Getrag does not provide the same
potential for price-fixing
> as a relationship between, say, Mitsubishi
and Toyota. Therefore, they
> decline to get
involved.
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:12:10 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little
long)
> From: Bob Fontana [mailto:bfontana@securitytechnologies.com]
>
> For normal driving conditions, the best way to start out is
> to
simply ease
> the clutch out in 1st gear and let it roll out.
That's what I figured, just wondered if there were wear issues with
bogging
the engine. I had always assumed not, but figured I'd
ask:)
> From: John [mailto:adams@icx.net]
>
> One of
the largest contributing factors to premature clutch
> failures in normal
driving
> is riding the clutch and using it as a hill holder. One needs
> to learn more proficiency
> in starting out on a hill without
rolling back without using
> the clutch to hold the car
> in
place till the light turns green.
>
Ummm. How about e-brake
usage? I always wondered why almost no one I know
uses that method of
starting on a hill...(use the e-brake to keep the car
from rolling back, do
the clutch/gas normally, and let go of the e-brake as
soon as you feel it
pull forward) It's not that hard, and there's *no*
rolling back if you
do it right. When I lived in Pittsburgh(quite hilly),
that was almost a
necessity unless I wanted my tires to lose 1/4" of tread
or have my clutch
glazed like a Krispy Kreme Donut!
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
-
------
----------
"You do not have to sit outside in the
dark.
If, however, you want to look at the
stars,
you will find that darkness
is required.
The stars neither require it nor demand
it."
--Annie Dillard
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:06:38 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: wheels & rubber
Chris Winkley wrote:
>
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: Roger Ludwig Jr [mailto:yiotta@e-z.net]
> Sent: Saturday,
January 16, 1999 2:43 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: wheels & rubber
>
> Time to start fixing up my
94 3000GT SL... new 17" wheels and tires.
> So many choices.... any
thoughts would be appreciated. I need good wet
> performance tires
as I live in the northwest....
As Chris mentioned, I've been running
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 all season
radials for over a year now, long enough to
have experienced a Maryland
winter and spring and all four seasons in
Germany. While you can do
better with tires specifically designed for a
certain type of road
condition, these are hard to beat as a year round
tire. Last week we
had two inches of snow on the roads here and I was
able to trade my car
for a 92 VR-4 with snow tires for the day. I drove
both cars back to
back on the same stretch of road, so it was a good
comparison. The snow
tires seemed marginally better in the snow for
braking and steering
(very subtle difference) and about the same for
accelerating. Not
nearly enough of a difference to justify purchasing a
set of winter
tires, at least in my case. I would also expect that the
winter tires
are at a huge disadvantage during the 90% of the winter days
that are
NOT snowy, and the rated speed is lower (definitely an issue
when
commuting on the Autobahn). In the wet the Pilots have also been
very
good, though not as good as Roger's tires (Yokos?) when we did
a
back-to-back comparison last fall (again, on the same stretch of road).
On dry streets the grip is comparable to the Pirelli P7000SS I
had
previously.
Good luck!!
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews -
Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:12:10 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Intercoolers
What is a good price for a upgrade intercooler?
-
--
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO
80202-2994
Voice: (303) 624-0803
Home: (719)
573-1775
Fax: (303) 624-1288
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 14:34:01 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: FTC
letter
Our good government at work... or lack thereof. How about
intervention for
price gouging. To replace a syncro will cost a whole
tranny?
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 1/19/99 8:00:55 AM Pacific
Standard Time,
bfontana@securitytechnologies.com
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: FTC letter
Date: 1/19/99 8:00:55
AM Pacific Standard Time
From: bfontana@securitytechnologies.com
(Bob Fontana)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(3000/Stealth Technical List)
I just received a call from a
lawyer at the FTC. While the government
sympathizes with our
situation, the rule that they apply to these cases is,
"If we don't do
anything, will the market work?" They reason that if this
were
such a widespread problem of significant proportion, that
Mitsubishi
would conclude that their transaxle parts policy is a bad
business practice
that is harming their position in the marketplace and
would, without
governmental intervention, retract that policy. A
relationship between
Mitsubishi and Getrag does not provide the same
potential for price-fixing
as a relationship between, say, Mitsubishi
and Toyota. Therefore, they
decline to get
involved.
-Bob
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:26:22 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little
long)
Yes there is one issue with bogging. If the RPMs dip too low
under load,
the engine will "lug" which results in too low oil
pressure. That starves
the bearings. This doesn't occur unless
you're below idle.
- -Bob
> That's what I figured, just
wondered if there were wear issues
> with bogging the engine. I had
always assumed not, but figured I'd ask:)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:36:38 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Bogging the Engine vs Slipping the Clutch ( a little
long)
> Yes there is one issue with bogging. If the RPMs dip too
low
> under load,
> the engine will "lug" which results in too low
oil pressure.
> That starves
> the bearings. This
doesn't occur unless you're below idle.
>
> -Bob
Ahhhh,
that's what I was looking for:) So just keep it over 700RPM when
you
start off and it's all good...works for me...
- --Erik
-
------
----------
Erik
Gross
DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
-
------
----------
"You do not have to sit outside in the
dark.
If, however, you want to look at the
stars,
you will find that darkness
is required.
The stars neither require it nor demand
it."
--Annie Dillard
-
-------------------------------------------------------------
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:50:58 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Need rear t-belt cover
Anybody have a rear timing belt cover
that's in good shape? If so, RTP - I
will take it off your hands for a
reasonable price.
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:54:36 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Need rear t-belt cover
Oh, and since we're listing our mods
in our signatures, here's one for ya:
Bob Fontana
93 VR-4 with the
Hole-blown-thru-timing-belt-cover mod.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:58:27 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Intercoolers
> What is a good price for a upgrade
intercooler?
Highly depending on what do you want... new side
intercoolers with larger core,
front mount intercooler or water based air
coolers. Everything is possible but
the most applications I've seen are
somewhat custom made.
The Cartech and HKS intercooler upgrade runs for
about $1500 (Nexus)
Regards
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi
AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa
brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Ready: GT-Alley 368S Turbos,front mount IC/ stainless
steel piping,G-Force ECU
(3 EPROMS),fuel pump,VPC,GCC,720 Injectors,Blitz
Filter/GT-Alley VPC adapter,
Maybe: f.aluminum pistons (if rebuild
needed)
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:05:36 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Intercoolers (more)
Sorry for teh repost, but I just saw that
Alamo has a blowout sale on the AMS IC
upgrade for our cars :
http://alamomotorsports.com/blowout.htm
>
What is a good price for a upgrade intercooler?
Later,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #77
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