--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #76
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
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Team3S Digest
Monday, January 18 1999 Volume
01 : Number
076
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:39:40 +0100
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
Subject:
Team3S: Light, Performance and Cap'n...
I have a few questions that
people on this list may be able
to help me with. Thankyou.
Q1:
How could I improve my headlights on low-beam
I am currently
running 80/100W bulbs in my '91 GTO-VR4 and
still find it a little
dim. There is not anything wrong
with my headlamp (eg they are
clean, etc) the problem is a
common one with the pop-up lamps being
fairly small.
Is there a way to improve on these, and if so what are
the
part #'s etc...
Q2: How can I improve performance over the
1/4 mile
I am currently running a '91 GTO-VR4 with the following
mods:
Blitz DSBC, plugs&wires, HKS SBOV, K&N FIPK. These
mods are
consistently getting me into the low 13's. Is there
anything
else that I could do (fairly cheaply) that would improve
the
situation.
I am not interested in replacing the stock
exhaust. I will
however consider gutting the cat and replacing
the downpipe,
which follows onto the next question:
Q3: Has
anyone "capped" their exhaust?
My understanding is that turbo's do
not require as much back
pressure as non-turbos. Now I am not
sure what the correct
term is in the US, but over here the big V8 boys
get their
exausts "capped" , meaning that the downpipe is replaced
with
another pipe that has an extra hole that has been
capped...
Bad ascii art follows:
|
|
| |
| |_
| \_______
|_|\________
Exhaust
^
Cap
While this picture is not ideal it does show the
basics.
Quite simply the cap can be removed to create a
free-flow
exhaust, and then replaced for street driving.
Would something like this (done properly) help our cars?
Cheers,
Kevin
Clark
'91 GTO-VR4 <- the only VR4 in NZ running Linux
:)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:04:27 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Light, Performance Cap'n...
Kevin Clark wrote:
> Q1: How improve
headlights low-beam
> I run 80/100W bulbs '91
VR4,
> find it a little dim. Is there way to improve
Hm. Could put a step-up transformer deal on there, boost it to
higher
voltage; lights wouldn't last as long, and on high-wattage halogens
I
wonder how much they'll take before heat dissipation isn't fast
enough
and they melt or something. Sure would be neat to try.
Could use a
digital voltmeter, then tell us what voltage led to
failure...will they
take 18V? Bet that would be bright as heck.
You could do this via a
Kenne-Bell voltage step-up unit such as they offer
for ignition coils or
fuel pumps. That would work; current capacity is
PRETTY good, but for 2
lights running ~150watts each you MIGHT need 2 of
them...will you do it
and inform us?
> Q2: How improve
performance 1/4 mile
> mods: Blitz DSBC, plugs&wires, HKS
SBOV, K&N FIPK in low 13's.
> what else fairly
cheap would improve without replacing stock exhaust.
> will
consider gut cat/replace downpipe
Gut cats. Replace downpipe.
More boost. Not much else is "fairly
cheap"...turbos, VPC,
injectors...
> Q3: Has anyone "capped" their exhaust?
> | |
> |
|_
> |
\_______
> |_|\________ Exhaust
> ^
>
cap removed to create free exhaust, replaced for
street.
> Would this help our cars?
Sure. But
could sound pretty rasty.
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:07:57 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Blitz DSBC Manual page finished
Thanks to everybody who gave me
some feedback on the DSBC manual. I made a
review on it a well as I finished
it with all the settings and tune-ins for the
controller.
So, if
anybody just got a DSBC let him know the URL :
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/dsbc_manual.html
Maybe
somebody also can distribute this to the other lists
:)
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:20:20 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Light, Performance and Cap'n...
> Q1: How could I improve my
headlights on low-beam
That's why the EU cars do have high beams instead
of fog lights ! They make the
night to day. Why not adding some small CATZ or
PIAAs
> Q2: How can I improve performance over the 1/4
mile
> I am currently running a '91 GTO-VR4 with the following
mods:
> Blitz DSBC, plugs&wires, HKS SBOV, K&N
FIPK. These mods are
> consistently getting me into the
low 13's.
Very similar to my basic mods and same results. The exhaust
really didn't gave
me a lot if anything. We don't know what boost you are
running but cranking it
up will give you more power. Of course then the fuel
system needs to be upgraded
too: Fuel pump, VPC/AFC, injectors are a must
then. To tune the stuff in
properly you also need an EGT meter located in the
exhaust manifold (best point
if possible)
> Q3: Has anyone "capped"
their exhaust?
> Would something like this (done properly)
help our cars?
Well, a Camaro friend of mine just did this with his long
tube headers running
on one side into the exhaust and by removing 3 bolts the
headers are open for
track purposes (I'd more say "attract") You can try this
easily by just removing
your main cat (it is simply bolted on) and place such
an y in its place. Should
be a cheap mod but nobody knows if it really works
and how good :)
Regards,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 17:40:40 EST
From: NYMaxxNY@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Bearings!!!
>>Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:07:42 -0500
From: "Bob
Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bearings
Richard,
That sounds good, since there are a
few bearings in our transaxles and they
are
not cheap. I'm currently
in "tranny hell" as you put it, and my shop
thought that
they might be
able to find a countershaft bearing from somewhere else.
These parts
have
such close tolerances that I'm not kidding when I suggest that
you
measure
both parts with a micrometer before you buy it.
- -
-Bob from tranny hell <<
Hi Everybody,
As
I've posted before about 50
times:
I have brand new OEM bearings and seals for sale for 5/6
speed GETRAG
Trannys.
Also, 18/25 spline output shafts, brand
new, made in
ITALY.
Sincerely,
Max '92vr4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:17:56 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Car
audio stuff for sale...
All,
I have the following for sale.. All
are 1 year old and still have a full
factory warranty if there are any
problems. But they still are in 100% awesome
condition...
1 Rockford
Fosgate Punch 200x2 amp
1 Rockford Fosgate Punch 160x4 amp
1 Lightning
Stiffening Cap
1 Rockford Fosgate OEQ2 10 band Parametric Equalizer
And 1
custom made sub box for a VR-4.. It comes with 2 Rockford Fosgate
Audiophile
12 inch subs in a sealed inclosure.. Perfectly fits in the truck
area of a
3000 or Stealth..
E-mail me privately if interested so we can talk
prices..
Thank You,
- -Adam Weltz
1996 3000 GT VR-4
11.25 @
125.43mph <-- BONE STOCK MOTOR!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:19:36 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: RC
Engineering 560cc Injectors for sale
Ok guys I also have a set of used
560cc injectors from RC Engineering. They
were used on my car for exactly
5,000 miles and worked perfectly.
I am willing to sell them for $475.00
for the set of 6. I will ship them in
the original box they came in with flow
sheet.
Please send me private e-mail responses.
Thank You,
-
-Adam W
'96 VR-4
11.25 @ 125.43
Bone Stock Motor
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:43:04 EST
From: PFloyd91@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: 80W
Blue Lights Performance ---NOT
Kevin Clark wrote:
> Q1: How improve
headlights low-beam
> I run 80/100W bulbs '91
VR4,
> find it a little dim. Is there way to improve
I
have the same problem on my '95 3000 GT. I was wondering if the
smaller
diameter round lenses contributed to the dimness. That
wouldn't seem to make
sense though, as the 60W clear halogens
work fine.
If one was able to
locate 60W blue halogens, I assume that it wouldn't
make a difference as
lower wattage bulbs "shouldn't" burn as brightly
as the 80 watts. The only
thing I can figure out is that the concept is so
simple, it's hard to figure
out <<GG>>
So the step up transformer is the only solution, I
guess?
If anybody tries this let us know what melts???
John
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:18:49 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Awesome Weekend, and new times!
All,
Had
an AWESOME weekend!! Started out Saturday night when a few of
my
friends and I decided to drive up to New Jersey so we could drag our cars
at
ATCO.
After watching the pathetic fight..lol.. Jason (has a 94'
VR4) and I headed
out in my Stealth along with two of my good friends in
their 1994 Toyota Supra
to the street races in Philly, PA. At first I
didn't think there would be
much going on, because of the cold weather and
all, but there turned out to be
a pretty decent crowd of cars that actually
street race. There was a tricked
out 300ZX that wanted to race my
friends Supra, but when it came down to it
the punk in the 300ZX only wanted
to race for fun, so that was a no-goer.
Little while later, we ran across a
1997 Eclipse with 20G, external wastegate,
front mount intercooler, etc. that
said he'd give me a pass.. But when we
were driving to one of the spots
to race his intercooler pipe blew apart.
Damn, another no-goer! But not
to worry, we finally meet up with a few people
that we've raced before.
One of their friends had a black El Camino with full
slicks, and although I
was a little skeptical, my friends in the Supra
proceeded to talk all kinds
of "smack" to the driver. After a few minutes,
the guy said he'd give
me the "Break" which means we line up, and then the
race starts when I start
to go (gives me an advantage, because I get to leave
first). We'll I
launched and that was all she wrote. I half throttled so I
didn't beat
him too bad (so we'd have chance of another race) and thanked the
guy for
paying for my weekend :P.
They wanted to race again, but we told them
we'd be back in two weeks, and
would have both my car and the Supra ready to
take on whatever they wanted..
Now for the good stuff...
This
morning we got up early and headed on over to ATCO Raceway. Got to
the
track and added a few gallons of 104-octane unleaded, then pulled to
the
staging lanes. Made my first pass at 1.3bar. I spun off the
line pretty bad,
and ended up running a 11.9 at 121.7mph. Let the car
cool down for about
45min., and brought her back around for another try - at
1.5bar. This time I
spun even worse, and then missed 2nd
gear..doh! Once I got the car in gear,
the car hauled ass and I though
I'd at least have a decent mph. But around
6000rpm in 3rd gear I hit
fuel cut, and ended up with a 12.5 and 104mph if I
remember correctly.
I figured I'd lean the fuel out, so the car wouldn't hit fuel cut at
1.5bar.
But didn't have anywhere to really test and see if my guesses were
good
enough. After another 45min of cooling, I pulled her back
up. I launched
pretty low, and ended up half bogging to a 1.824
60-foot. Flat shifted 2nd
gear and the car was pulling great. Hit
3rd and no fuel cut.. but I had the
worst feeling I was about to hit fuel cut
again at 6000rpm, and like a moron
shifted into 4th at 6000rpm (yeah I know,
I always find a way to mess
everything up:). But I still ran my best to
date with a 11.48 at 122mph. I
wanted to run again because I know she
has at least 11.2's in her, but it was
getting late and we had to start the
treck back for Maryland/Virginia.
This is the run down:
Reaction
Time: .711
60-foot: 1.824
330-foot:
4.976
1/8mile: 7.513
MPH: 97.86
990-foot:
9.613
1/4mile: 11.489
MPH: 122.02
That's the best to
date.. I had about three gallons of 93-octane to 5 gallons
of 104-octane
unleaded race gas, 1.5bar, full interior, Goodyear GS-C's, and
about
60degs.
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
94' Stealth tt
Best et: 11.4
Best mph: 122
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:24:04 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Team3S:
Emission Info.
All,
Had to take the Stealth in
for emission testing this weekend. I unblocked
the EGR and bolted in my
Random Tech. high-flow cat. I was convinced I'd fail
for sure (because
I have 720cc injectors and gutted pre-cats) but ended up
passing with flying
colors!
So I guess the following info. is available for those
interested:
- - we can pass with gutted pre-cats
- - we can pass with
upgraded injectors
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best
et: 11.4 Best mph: 122
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:33:02 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Emission Info.
Did they give you the printout of the
requirements to pass the test? I
was just wondering what the percentages were
for your state.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:34:30 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heat shields
For the most part if it's the catalytic
converter shield, people usually
just rip it off. It doesn't seem to harm
emissions.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:37:04 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Heat shields
I wrapped my upper intercooler piping section
from the rear turbo to
first soft hose in roughly 15 minutes. All you need is
a clamp to hold
the initial wrapping and then to hold the final section. I
have yet to
have any of it spiral off. The Thermo-wrap I used can be bought
in any
automotive store like Pepboys or Parts America. I didn't choose to
wet
the wrap and apply it thought, it was plenty tight just by
hand
wrapping.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:57:47 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission and Clutch update - LONG
Well, I've driven over 1000
miles with my rebuilt transmission and the
ACT 2600lb clutch pressure plate
and the 6 puck copper ceramic solid
clutch disk. solid = no springs =
lightweight)
First let me start with the transmission:
It's the 5
speed getrag, I sent it to TRICo in NY, the contact is:
Max, email: NYMaxxNY@aol.com
Here's a detail of
what they did and how much it costs:
1-2 and 3-4 synchro
kit..........from Jack T. at $220
Bearing
kit......................TriCo/Getrag $260
Seals
kit........................Trico/Getrag $240
Output shaft
(23spline)..........TriCo/Getrag
$800
Labor............................TriCo
$660
Shipping.........................UPS
$120($60 each
way.)
======================================================
Total spent
on
transmission:
$2300
By the way when I say TriCo/Getrag I mean TriCo gets Getrag parts!
Almost any part! They can get gears, shafts, bearings, etc, for
both
6sp and 5sp and transfercases as well. How do they manage this
feat? I
do not know and I do not care, I went to shop in Brooklyn, NY before
I
sent my transmission, they had another 5speed on the bench almost
done
with the rebuilt and I saw empty boxes with the Getrag name. I
even
took some video but I've had trouble converting Hi8 tape into an AVI
or
Quicktime movie.
The problem before was that no matter how slow I
shifted into second
(from any gear) it will always grind really bad and it
was getting
worse. The noise was like a metal to metal
grinding.
Now after 1000+ miles, it shifts great if you shift slowly, I
try to
match RPMs and then it is very smooth shifting. BUT when you
shift on a
normal speed or if you tend to shift very fast then there is a
clunky
sound and you can feel it having trouble getting into second
gear. At
least there is no more of that metal to metal grinding
sound.
The verdict, I wish I had bought a new transmission after all. The
good
part, I did save over $1000.
ACT Clutch Update:
First of
all let me tell you that ACT has two different clutch disks for
our cars,
they have a street version (with springs) and they claim to
hold about 480
ft-lb of torque. Then they have the racing clutch. It
is of a
six-puck design with copper ceramic pucks. This is a very
lightweight
solid disk - no springs. It supposed to hold 584 ft-lb of
torque!
And this is what I've ordered. Call me crazy because my car
probably is
making only about 450 HP which I think it translates to
about 420-440 ft-lb
of torque. Anyhow this what it costs:
2600lb pressure
plate.............ACT $385
racing disk.......................ACT
$ 85
Throw-out bearing.................ACT $
75
=============================================
Total..................................$545
This
clutch is more like an on/off switch. It engages immediately, so if
you do
not want to break drivetrain parts here's what I do when I
launch. Rev it up
to as high an RPM as you want (make sure is above
5500) then very slowly let
go of the clutch pedal until the car starts
to move slightly (I mean if I
detect about an inch of movement I go into
the second stage) then as soon as
you notice the car moving, dump the
rest of the clutch and pedal to the metal
for the gas. I recently did
it at around 7000 to see if the clutch will
slip and wow it just grabbed
on like there was no tomorrow - can we say 10+
maybe even 20 ft of
4wheel burnout! I had really bad tires at the
time!
beware that for the street go and stop traffic you will hate
it. The
reason is that from a full stop you have to doa 1800 rpm or
higher mini
launch otherwise you'll stall it. You can also try to slip
the clutch
all the way but if the rpms go lower than 1800 or so you
experience a
shattering effect and car shakes violently because this clutch
doesn't
want to be slipped, so it does the following: grabs, lets go,
grabs,
lets go, etc.
The verdict - best clutch I've ever known.
But if you're not ready for
the racing disk, you can buy the street disk and
when you outgrow it,
you only need to replace the clutch disk with the racing
disk = $85. No
need to spend another $500+ for a better clutch
system.
I hope this helps someone out there.
Jose
92 Stealth
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:49:05 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
Team3S: 5-6speed info.
After a hard weekend, I was
successful.
For those who wanted to know:
I will put together
a web site with a more thorough breakdown for the 5/6
speed swap, however
this will be the highlights.
Transaxle, clutch, flywheel wiring,
speedometer output gear, front axles are
the same.
Rear differential
is a different ratio, and seems like a better limited
slip. 6 speed
ratio: 3.307, 5 speed 3.545.
Transfer case, Hrmm lets see how to put
this...Well those of you who blow
your 5 speed junk, skip over the
replacement and don't look back when you go
to six speed. The output shaft
for the 6 speed is almost twice what the 5
speed shaft is. Not to mention the
transfer case itself is much stronger.
Transfer case on the 6 speed is
about 1" shorter in length.
Driveshaft: The 6 speed shaft is about
1" longer (for the transfer case).
Simply take the front piece to a
driveshaft shop, have them lengthen the
front section of the shaft ~1" and
you will be in good shape. Cost is
50-100.00. New driveshaft is
1200.00-1500.00 (save the money)
6 speed shifter cables are about 2"
shorter than the 5 speed shifter cables.
5 speed cables will work on the 6
speed with a little adjustment in length.
I would change the shifter
assembly.
Total project was a success, the car leaps out of the hole like
it never has
before. The gearing on the 6 speed is much more efficient
in transferring
the torque to the ground.
Time spent ~15 hours for the
whole swap. I am tired and some of this
information may be
transversed in the differences. When I have pictures and
part #'s up I
will repost this info.
> Brad
>
> Check out my home
page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 08:34:48 -0000
From: "Simon Jones" <simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Light, Performance and Cap'n...
Kevin,
>Q1: How
could I improve my headlights on low-beam
>
> I am currently
running 80/100W bulbs in my '91 GTO-VR4 and
> still find it a little
dim. There is not anything wrong
> with my headlamp (eg they
are clean, etc) the problem is a
> common one with the pop-up lamps
being fairly small.
> Is there a way to improve on these, and if so
what are the
> part #'s etc...
Have you measured the
voltage at the bulb with the lights on (engine on
also)? Halogen lights
have a very narrow threshold where they are designed
to give out their rated
light output. For example, if you're voltage was
10% down (10.8 V), the
light output could actually be around 30% down.
With my '94 GTO (second
gen.), I've noticed that the wiring to the lights is
very conservative, i.e.
thin wires considering they've got to carry > 5A.
Since you're running
80W, this is nearer 7A, so to achieve at 10% drop, you
only need 0.2 Ohms
resistance in the wire.
Therefore, rather than uprating the bulbs (since
if you draw more current,
you're exaggerating the problem), you might want to
think about using a
better rating wire from the relay/fuses to the bulbs
(50/0.25 (29A rating)
or 14/16 AWG).
Regards,
Simon
Jones.
'94 GTO
simon@3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
http://www.3kgto.freeserve.co.uk
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 05:58:00 -0600
From: "Steven A. File" <sfile@usa.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Light,
Performance and Cap'n...
Try this web site to learn more than you
probably want to know about car
lights:
http://lighting.mbz.org/
This guy
claims to be a car lights guru. Lot's of interesting stuff. Worth
noting is
his claim that the OEM wiring on most cars is of too small a gauge
and does
not deliver full voltage. It would be interesting to know if this
applies to
our cars!
Steve File
mailto:sfile@usa.net
Things that make you
go 'hhhhmmmmm . . .
"Some days you’re the dog . .
.
. . .
some days you’re the hydrant."
>Q1: How could I improve my
headlights on low-beam
>
> I am currently running 80/100W
bulbs in my '91 GTO-VR4 and
> still find it a little dim.
There is not anything wrong
> with my headlamp (eg they are clean,
etc) the problem is a
> common one with the pop-up lamps being
fairly small.
> Is there a way to improve on these, and if so what
are the
> part #'s etc...
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 07:12:13 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
Brad,
Congrats on getting the 6 speed
installed. When you do your www page on the
swap, please be sure to
list all of the parts we need to aquire. In your
case, you had the
"donor" car there, so all of the parts were there. Also,
you took your
front piece to a driveshaft shop. Is that a joke or is there
really
such a thing?
- -Bob
> Driveshaft: The 6 speed shaft is
about 1" longer (for the transfer case).
> Simply take the front piece to
a driveshaft shop, have them lengthen the
> front section of the shaft ~1"
and you will be in good shape. Cost is
> 50-100.00. New driveshaft
is 1200.00-1500.00 (save the money)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 08:43:10 -0600
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Light, Performance and Cap'n...
At 10:39 PM 1/17/99 +0100,
you wrote:
>I have a few questions that people on this list may be
able
>to help me with. Thankyou.
>
>Q1: How could I
improve my headlights on low-beam
>
> I am currently running
80/100W bulbs in my '91 GTO-VR4 and
> still find it a little
dim. There is not anything wrong
> with my headlamp (eg they
are clean, etc) the problem is a
> common one with the pop-up lamps
being fairly small.
> Is there a way to improve on these, and if so
what are the
> part #'s etc...
Try this hella website. I used
these lights on all my Starions. It truly
made a night and day difference,
and they fit like standard replacements.
You will have to e-mail them to see
if they will fit a 3000, If they do,
let us know.
Wayne
http://www.hellausa.com/inc/vision_plus.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 08:00:02 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: OEM parts
For those of us with TT engines it is relatively easy
to modify them to
produce 500+ HP. However, it appears in doing so we
can expect engine,
clutch,transmission, and transfrer case failure which I
assume is primarily
the result of adding 63% more HP to a drive-train that
was engineered for
somewhat less. I am willing to accept these failures
if when I
replace/rebuild these OEM parts if I can do so with parts that are
stronger
and that will provide durability and reliability. I have seen
posts on the
list from some of our more prominent members (all of whom I
highly respect
for their knowledge) which suggest that our engines can be
rebuilt with
stronger internal parts ( i.e. forged pistons etc) and I have
read about the
many aftermarket clutches which seem to be stronger than the
OEM parts
however I have not seen any information on strenghtening our
transmissions
or transfer cases. Does anyone know of any after market
parts or vendor
that can provide for stronger transmissions and transfer
cases or are we
stuck with OEM parts that continue to fail?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:06:06 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Nose Guard in the rain??
Although I agree that bras are generally a "bad"
thing, in my experience the
damage isn't as permanent as that. The
previous owner of mine had put one
on, and it stayed on for about a year and
a half after I bought it. Yes,
there was some discoloration and Yes,
the red under the bra hadn't faded as
much as the exposed. However,
lots of elbow grease and a couple good wax
jobs took care of both
problems. The only thing the bra was good for, IMO,
was hiding some
paint damage I'd received from a low-speed "up close and
personal" with the
rear end of an S-10. (That was the LAST time I ever
drove it on
snow!)
Since then, I've had the whole nose repainted, so I can't really
offer any
other "long term effects" commentary...
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES
-
-----Original Message-----
From: MrX2111@aol.com <MrX2111@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, January 15, 1999 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Nose Guard in the
rain??
>If you leave it on do not plan on taking it off. It
will discolor the nose
>the uncovered areas with age differently. A
car bra is either a permanent
>ornament or not at
all.
>
>IMHO
>Xannieria
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:56:46 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Light, Performance and Cap'n...
OK, here's a "profound" one: dim the
brightness of your dash lights. I had
a similar complaint about my
non-Stealth a couple weeks ago, but when I
dimmed the dash, I could suddenly
see again. Too bright of a light inside
the cockpit is not much
different than oncoming traffic with their
high-beams on.
Best of all,
this fix is free...
Hope this helps.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, January 17, 1999 4:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Light, Performance and
Cap'n...
>I have a few questions that people on this list may be
able
>to help me with. Thankyou.
>
>Q1: How could I
improve my headlights on low-beam
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:04:42 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Light, Performance and Cap'n...
WOW. This sight is packed with
info. I especially appreciated his
discussion of the "blue
bulbs". You can link to that from his FAQ page.
Steve, thanks for
the tip.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Steven A. File <sfile@usa.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, January 18, 1999 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Light, Performance and
Cap'n...
>Try this web site to learn more than you probably want
to know about car
>lights:
>http://lighting.mbz.org/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:22:28 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
I did not need to take my driveshaft to a
shop, however there are machine
shops that can/will build a driveshaft to
your specifications. The yokes
are the same on the 5/6 speed shafts,
and they will bolt up to the new rear
end.
I had to have a driveshaft
custom built for the 67 mustang I had. I supplied
the yokes and told them how
long of pipe I wanted it. (you can also specify
the material)
Cost was around 100.00 (per inch charge)
> Brad
>
> Check
out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Fontana
Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 6:12 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
Brad,
Congrats on getting the 6 speed
installed. When you do your www page on the
swap, please be sure to
list all of the parts we need to aquire. In your
case, you had the
"donor" car there, so all of the parts were there. Also,
you took your
front piece to a driveshaft shop. Is that a joke or is there
really
such a thing?
- -Bob
> Driveshaft: The 6 speed shaft is
about 1" longer (for the transfer case).
> Simply take the front piece to
a driveshaft shop, have them lengthen the
> front section of the shaft ~1"
and you will be in good shape. Cost is
> 50-100.00. New driveshaft
is 1200.00-1500.00 (save the money)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 99 12:27:44 EST
From: "Alan Monarchi GANGUS@VNET.IBM.COM" <gangus@VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject:
Team3S: chassis lubrication ?
I got a card in the mail from the Dodge
dealer
a while back. It was for a 60 month checkup.
It said
things like Inspect drive-shaft boots
and lubricate tie-rod ends and
joints.
I do all the oil changes and have never found
any grease
fittings. I thought the tie rod ends and
ball joints were permanently
sealed and lubricated.
So what do they want to check for ?
Al
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:29:19 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
NEXUS I believe sells a carbon fiber drive
shaft for our cars which is much
lighter than the OEM part.
>
----------
> From: Brad Bedell[SMTP:bbedell@austin.rr.com]
>
Reply To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 12:22 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
>
> I did not need to take my
driveshaft to a shop, however there are machine
> shops that can/will
build a driveshaft to your specifications. The yokes
> are the same
on the 5/6 speed shafts, and they will bolt up to the new
> rear
>
end.
>
> I had to have a driveshaft custom built for the 67 mustang
I had. I
> supplied
> the yokes and told them how long of pipe I
wanted it. (you can also
> specify
> the material) Cost
was around 100.00 (per inch charge)
>
> > Brad
>
>
> > Check out my home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Bob Fontana
> Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 6:12 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
>
> Brad,
>
>
Congrats on getting the 6 speed installed. When you do your www page
on
> the
> swap, please be sure to list all of the parts we need to
aquire. In your
> case, you had the "donor" car there, so all of the
parts were there.
> Also,
> you took your front piece to a
driveshaft shop. Is that a joke or is
> there
> really such a
thing?
>
> -Bob
>
> > Driveshaft: The 6 speed
shaft is about 1" longer (for the transfer
> case).
> > Simply
take the front piece to a driveshaft shop, have them lengthen the
> >
front section of the shaft ~1" and you will be in good shape. Cost is
>
> 50-100.00. New driveshaft is 1200.00-1500.00 (save the money)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:40:56 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
At the cost of almost 1000.00. I
was offering a "cheap" solution, as the
cost of the transaxle, transfer case,
and rear differential will be enough
to swallow at once.
However, the
carbon fiber driveshaft would be a nice way to shave 30-40 lbs
off the weight
of these cars.
> Brad
>
> Check out my home
page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com
ICQ# 3612682
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Theiss, Charles
Sent: Monday, January 18, 1999 11:29 AM
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
NEXUS I believe sells a carbon fiber drive
shaft for our cars which is much
lighter than the OEM part.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:55:24 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: 5-6speed info.
There are driveshaft shops out there they will
replace the U-Joints and
do custom length driveshafts. I think one of the
companies out there is
called Universal Joints.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:16:59 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Bearings!!!
I dunno Max, but I looked back over the last
couple months and didn't come
across any postings about tranny parts.
But, if you say you have them, I
believe you. Maybe you posted on the
Starnet list which I've been lurking
on for a few weeks now.
Okay, now
for the $64,000 question -- can you (or TRICO) acquire Getrag
parts for these
transaxles and no one else can? I have had multiple
conversations with
Rick Urgil of Getrag Gears of North America who continues
to state that there
is a contract between Mitsubishi and Getrag precluding
him from making parts
available to 3rd parties, including Mitsubishi
dealerships.
Right now,
Rick is in Italy. Is there any connection?
- -Bob
> Hi
Everybody,
> As I've posted before about 50 times: I have brand new OEM
bearings and
seals for
> sale for 5/6 speed GETRAG Trannys. Also,
18/25 spline output shafts,
brand
> new, made in ITALY.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:24:22 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Awesome
Weekend, and new times!
Hi Mike, thats great running. It appears even
with your 720's your still
getting the fuel cut? I was getting it with the
550's and thought it would be
avoided with my 550 injectors. Hearing your
getting it with 720's I don't feel
so unique. I'd suggest its time for the
ECU upgrade. Imho, it was one of the
best mods I did. I think it would be a
great help to you. Weather you can get
one as good as mine (Brian's gone)
remains to be seen, but it time for it.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message
dated 1/17/99 6:25:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, LotoBoost@aol.com
writes:
<<
All,
Had an AWESOME weekend!!
Started out Saturday night when a few of my
friends and I decided to
drive up to New Jersey so we could drag our cars
at
ATCO.
After watching the pathetic fight..lol..
Jason (has a 94' VR4) and I headed
out in my Stealth along with two of
my good friends in their 1994 Toyota
Supra
to the street races in
Philly, PA. At first I didn't think there would be
much going on,
because of the cold weather and all, but there turned out to
be
a
pretty decent crowd of cars that actually street race. There was a
tricked
out 300ZX that wanted to race my friends Supra, but when it
came down to it
the punk in the 300ZX only wanted to race for fun, so
that was a no-goer.
Little while later, we ran across a 1997 Eclipse
with 20G, external
wastegate,
front mount intercooler, etc. that
said he'd give me a pass.. But when we
were driving to one of the
spots to race his intercooler pipe blew apart.
Damn, another
no-goer! But not to worry, we finally meet up with a
few
people
that we've raced before. One of their friends had a
black El Camino with
full
slicks, and although I was a little
skeptical, my friends in the Supra
proceeded to talk all kinds of
"smack" to the driver. After a few minutes,
the guy said he'd
give me the "Break" which means we line up, and then the
race starts
when I start to go (gives me an advantage, because I get to
leave
first). We'll I launched and that was all she wrote.
I half throttled so I
didn't beat him too bad (so we'd have chance of
another race) and thanked the
guy for paying for my weekend
:P.
They wanted to race again, but we told them we'd be back
in two weeks, and
would have both my car and the Supra ready to take on
whatever they wanted..
Now for the good
stuff...
This morning we got up early and headed on over to
ATCO Raceway. Got to the
track and added a few gallons of
104-octane unleaded, then pulled to the
staging lanes. Made my
first pass at 1.3bar. I spun off the line pretty
bad,
and
ended up running a 11.9 at 121.7mph. Let the car cool down for
about
45min., and brought her back around for another try - at
1.5bar. This time I
spun even worse, and then missed 2nd
gear..doh! Once I got the car in gear,
the car hauled ass and I
though I'd at least have a decent mph. But around
6000rpm in 3rd
gear I hit fuel cut, and ended up with a 12.5 and 104mph if I
remember
correctly.
I figured I'd lean the fuel out, so the car
wouldn't hit fuel cut at 1.5bar.
But didn't have anywhere to really
test and see if my guesses were good
enough. After another 45min
of cooling, I pulled her back up. I launched
pretty low, and
ended up half bogging to a 1.824 60-foot. Flat shifted 2nd
gear
and the car was pulling great. Hit 3rd and no fuel cut.. but I had
the
worst feeling I was about to hit fuel cut again at 6000rpm, and
like a moron
shifted into 4th at 6000rpm (yeah I know, I always find a
way to mess
everything up:). But I still ran my best to date with
a 11.48 at 122mph. I
wanted to run again because I know she has
at least 11.2's in her, but it was
getting late and we had to start the
treck back for Maryland/Virginia.
This is the run
down:
Reaction Time: .711
60-foot:
1.824
330-foot: 4.976
1/8mile:
7.513
MPH: 97.86
990-foot:
9.613
1/4mile: 11.489
MPH:
122.02
That's the best to date.. I had about three gallons of
93-octane to 5 gallons
of 104-octane unleaded race gas, 1.5bar, full
interior, Goodyear GS-C's, and
about 60degs.
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:23:53 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Light,
Performance and Cap'n...
I would wonder about someone who claims the
original wiring does not carry full voltage
to the lights. To begin with
voltage is not what determines wire size. It is amperage.
If the lights
called for more amperage than the wire could deliver, they would get hot
and
possibly melt the outer covering and short out. The lights "will" pull the
amperage
needed. It doesn't care about wire size. If line loss is due to too
small a wire or
distance the result will be a heated wire, line break from
heat, or short. Lights use
relays. the switch doesn't really turn on the
lights but trip a relay that in turn sends
current to the lights and are
designed to carry more amperage than the switch and also
have heavier wire.
This process also helps to keep wire looms smaller under the dash and
a short
will burn up wiring to the relay rather than the dash
switch.
John
"Steven A. File" wrote:
> Try this web site
to learn more than you probably want to know about car
> lights:
>
http://lighting.mbz.org/
>
>
This guy claims to be a car lights guru. Lot's of interesting stuff.
Worth
> noting is his claim that the OEM wiring on most cars is of too
small a gauge
> and does not deliver full voltage. It would be interesting
to know if this
> applies to our cars!
>
> Steve File
>
mailto:sfile@usa.net
>
> Things
that make you go 'hhhhmmmmm . . .
> "Some
days you’re the dog . .
.
>
. . . some days you’re the hydrant."
>
> >Q1: How could I improve
my headlights on low-beam
> >
> > I am currently running
80/100W bulbs in my '91 GTO-VR4 and
> > still find it a little
dim. There is not anything wrong
> > with my headlamp (eg
they are clean, etc) the problem is a
> > common one with the
pop-up lamps being fairly small.
> > Is there a way to improve on
these, and if so what are the
> > part #'s etc...
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
-
--
John Adams 91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center:
http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My
Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape
Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta
Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:29:08 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: OEM
parts
Charles, I'd love to here about a supplier being able to upgrade
the strength
of either the tranny or transfer case. So far, being just able
to rebiuld is a
feat. Upgrading it, is still nobody to be found.
Arty 91
VR-4
In a message dated 1/18/99 8:01:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
charles.theiss@lmco.com
writes:
<< For those of us with TT engines it is relatively easy to
modify them to
produce 500+ HP. However, it appears in doing so
we can expect engine,
clutch,transmission, and transfrer case failure
which I assume is primarily
the result of adding 63% more HP to a
drive-train that was engineered for
somewhat less. I am willing
to accept these failures if when I
replace/rebuild these OEM parts if I
can do so with parts that are stronger
and that will provide durability
and reliability. I have seen posts on the
list from some of our
more prominent members (all of whom I highly respect
for their
knowledge) which suggest that our engines can be rebuilt with
stronger
internal parts ( i.e. forged pistons etc) and I have read about
the
many aftermarket clutches which seem to be stronger than the OEM
parts
however I have not seen any information on strenghtening our
transmissions
or transfer cases. Does anyone know of any after
market parts or vendor
that can provide for stronger transmissions and
transfer cases or are we
stuck with OEM parts that continue to
fail?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:41:11 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: ECU, was Awesome Weekend, and new times!
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> Hi Mike,
thats great running. It appears even with your 720's your still
> getting
the fuel cut? I was getting it with the 550's and thought it would be
>
avoided with my 550 injectors. Hearing your getting it with 720's I don't
feel
> so unique. I'd suggest its time for the ECU upgrade. Imho, it was
one of the
> best mods I did. I think it would be a great help to you.
Weather you can get
> one as good as mine (Brian's gone) remains to be
seen, but it time for it.
> Arty 91 VR-4
Although Brian and GT
Alley are gone, you can still get a G-Force ECU.
Just check out http://www.g-force-engr.com. One of
the G-Force
engineers made a post to the starnet list last April. I
could send it
or repost it to anyone interested.
- --
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:26:53 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Awesome Weekend, and new times!
Fuel cut is related to the amount of
airflow the ECU sees. If the ECU
thinks too much air is entering the
engine for the fuel table in use then
fuel cut will occur whether the
condition is actually valid or not. There
is no feedback from the state
of the engine other than airflow for this
condition (orrected by other
sensors like temperature and atmospheric
pressure of course).
The way
larger injectors (or other means of increasing fuel) usually help is
not the
injector itself but rather the fact that in order to make them work
you have
to fake out the airflow the ECU sees.
The "right" way to avoid fuel cut
would be to correct the fuel maps and the
trigger calculation in the ECU, the
latter probably being set at a rather
conservative (read safe)
manner.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
> Sent: Monday,
January 18, 1999 11:24 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Awesome Weekend, and new times!
>
>
> Hi Mike, thats great
running. It appears even with your 720's your still
> getting the fuel
cut? I was getting it with the 550's and thought
> it would be
>
avoided with my 550 injectors. Hearing your getting it with 720's
> I
don't feel
> so unique. I'd suggest its time for the ECU upgrade. Imho, it
was
> one of the
> best mods I did. I think it would be a great help
to you. Weather
> you can get
> one as good as mine (Brian's gone)
remains to be seen, but it time for it.
> Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:19:03 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Sunroof and tructural rigidity
When they added the sunroof option
for the 2g 3S, did they have to
stiffen the body anywhere to make up for a
lack in rigidity? The reason
I ask is that I am considering a sunroof,
or removable panel or somthing
for my 91 VR4. I won't do it if I'm
going to loose the rigidity. I am
considering suspension mods
also.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 21:03:45 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Filters
Tom Wilson wrote:
>
> Since then I
have only ran NAPA oil filters (has anti-drain valve
I bought my TT with
34k miles on it and used the cheap (orange) Fram
filters for several oil
changes (3k interval, Castrol GTX) with no
ticking. It wasn't until I
tried an expensive (black) Fram filter with
Teflon that the ticking
started. I went through two intervals with
those, and when I switched
to the stock Mitsu filter (not too expensive,
BTW) and Mobil 1 (much more
expensive than dino juice!), the ticking
lessened but did not
disappear. I can always make the sound go away by
revving it up to 3k
or so and holding it there for a few seconds.
-Jim
- --
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:02:05 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: wheels & rubber
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Roger Ludwig Jr [mailto:yiotta@e-z.net]
Sent: Saturday,
January 16, 1999 2:43 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: wheels & rubber
Time to start fixing up my 94 3000GT SL...
new 17" wheels and tires.
So many choices.... any thoughts would be
appreciated. I need good wet
performance tires as I live in the
northwest....
check out this link and tell me if you think these would look
nice on a
3000.
Thanx
Roger Ludwig
Vancouver
Washington
http://www.superbuytires.com/cgi-bin/findsbtwheel?415
======================================
Roger...
Striking
rims, unusual design. I wouldn't go for them, but then, I like the
stock
chromes on my '95. As for tires, I'd recommend the Michelin XGT.
Always had
great reviews for both wet and dry performance. I believe Jim
Matthews (one
of our Admins) has a set he's running in the rain, snow and
ice found on the
German roads. It's what I'll be buying when I finish off
these
Yokohama's.
Looking forward...Chris
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
(w/HKS Super Flo intake, HKS SBOV, Predator dry
cell battery, bored and
polished throttle body, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, HKS
double platinum plugs
gapped at .034", GReddy PRofec A boost controller,
GReddy turbo timer, ATR
downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust,
Eibach 1" drop progressive
springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #76
***************************
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