--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #75
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Saturday, January 16 1999        Volume 01 : Number 075




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:19:54 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Heat shields

RPM Motorsports wrote:

<snip>

> The biggest
> temperature increase occurred in the back intercooler piping. This was
> caused by turbo generating heat and the intercooler piping heating up as
> a result. I bought some thermal wrap and wrapped the intercooler pipe
> and I noticed an immediate reduction in air temperature by 20 degrees.

Since our cars (TT's) are notorious for high underhood temps, this sounds like an
effective improvement (insulating rather than cooling.  How much of an exercise is
wrapping the piping, and how long will the heat wrap last??

Best

Darc


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 10:35:51 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash

> -----Original Message-----
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash
>
> as far as replacement. Check the easy stuff first. First, try
> an engine flush product with your
> next oil change (Gunk, Pro-tec, etc).


I, like a lot of people with 3000's, seem to have this loud ticking sound
coming from the area where the valves are. 

1) I was wondering how many of you had used some sort of engine
treatment at some point in your cars...and if so what kind.  I've usually
heard that engine treatments are to be avoided since they can cause
buildup/premature wear/etc or that they're gimmicks.

2) Has anyone used a "high performance" oil filter (such as K&N) rather
than the factory one?  I looked at the specs on the K&N and it exceeds the
psi and filtering specs of the factory filter and it has the anti-drainback
valve that is one of the major benefits of the factory filter.

3) Would oil weight have much of an effect on valve ticking?  I'm
currently using 5W30 since it's colder in WA now and the manual says 5W30 is
preferred.  Would going to a different weight help/hurt?

4) How many people have tried Arty's method of quieting the valve tick?
I think I'm gonna try this if others have had positive results...


> From: Aso8@aol.com [mailto:Aso8@aol.com]

1. Drain off and replace one quart of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil
.... Don't change Factory filter.
2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not hard runs. Get the revs up to about
3000 to 4500rpms but don't kill it. Just work the stuff in. Vary the revs.
3. Change oil and filter after 1000 miles as follows: Mobil One
Extreme 0W-30 and a new Factory filter. Ticking sound should be gone with
this change but, Your Not Done Yet...Drive for another 500 miles with this
oil change. Revs the same way.
4. Now after that 500 miles. Change the Oil and Filter again to the
normal Mobil One 10W-30 and a new factory filter. In really cold weather you
can use 5W-30 too.

> End of Arty's post


So anyone have any ideas/comments/experiences?  Thanks!

- --Erik


- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
- ------                                             ----------
   "You do not have to sit outside in the dark.
    If, however, you want to look at the stars,
        you will find that darkness is required.
    The stars neither require it nor demand it."
                                             --Annie Dillard
- -------------------------------------------------------------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:23:27 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash

Arty's method will work fine if you have a buildup of deposits in your lash adjusters
and causing the oil to not flow properly, however, the main reason for the ticking is
caused by air getting into the lash adjusters. Check out the web page in the Repair
Center under the  "Service" heading based on the manual and then make your determination
if you think you are in need of Arty's fix.           #1 check your oil level. It is
critical in preventing this.

John

"Gross, Erik" wrote:

> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash
> >
> > as far as replacement. Check the easy stuff first. First, try
> > an engine flush product with your
> > next oil change (Gunk, Pro-tec, etc).
>
> I, like a lot of people with 3000's, seem to have this loud ticking sound
> coming from the area where the valves are.
>
> 1)      I was wondering how many of you had used some sort of engine
> treatment at some point in your cars...and if so what kind.  I've usually
> heard that engine treatments are to be avoided since they can cause
> buildup/premature wear/etc or that they're gimmicks.
>
> 2)      Has anyone used a "high performance" oil filter (such as K&N) rather
> than the factory one?  I looked at the specs on the K&N and it exceeds the
> psi and filtering specs of the factory filter and it has the anti-drainback
> valve that is one of the major benefits of the factory filter.
>
> 3)      Would oil weight have much of an effect on valve ticking?  I'm
> currently using 5W30 since it's colder in WA now and the manual says 5W30 is
> preferred.  Would going to a different weight help/hurt?
>
> 4)      How many people have tried Arty's method of quieting the valve tick?
> I think I'm gonna try this if others have had positive results...
>
> > From: Aso8@aol.com [mailto:Aso8@aol.com]
>
>         1. Drain off and replace one quart of oil with Marvel Mystery Oil
> .... Don't change Factory filter.
>         2. Drive it for 1000 miles. Not hard runs. Get the revs up to about
> 3000 to 4500rpms but don't kill it. Just work the stuff in. Vary the revs.
>         3. Change oil and filter after 1000 miles as follows: Mobil One
> Extreme 0W-30 and a new Factory filter. Ticking sound should be gone with
> this change but, Your Not Done Yet...Drive for another 500 miles with this
> oil change. Revs the same way.
>         4. Now after that 500 miles. Change the Oil and Filter again to the
> normal Mobil One 10W-30 and a new factory filter. In really cold weather you
> can use 5W-30 too.
>
> > End of Arty's post
>
> So anyone have any ideas/comments/experiences?  Thanks!
>
> --Erik
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
> ------                                             ----------
>    "You do not have to sit outside in the dark.
>     If, however, you want to look at the stars,
>         you will find that darkness is required.
>     The stars neither require it nor demand it."
>                                              --Annie Dillard
> -------------------------------------------------------------
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --

John Adams  91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center: http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:38:53 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

Does anybody know what the generally accepted stock times/speeds are for
a first gen TT/VR-4?

I was watching a show on ESPN2 and somebody was running a 1996 Viper
GTS(stock).....12.2!? Seemed pretty slow....maybe the guys launch
techniques need some refining.

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:46:15 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

I think the best time I have seen in Motor Trend for a stock VR4 was 13.5 or
13.6.  However it should be noted that is very easy and inexpensive to
modify a VR4 to run 12's.

> ----------
> From: Jeff Crabtree[SMTP:wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com]
> Reply To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Sent: Friday, January 15, 1999 2:38 PM
> To: stealth@starnet.net; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?
>
>
> Does anybody know what the generally accepted stock times/speeds are for
> a first gen TT/VR-4?
>
> I was watching a show on ESPN2 and somebody was running a 1996 Viper
> GTS(stock).....12.2!? Seemed pretty slow....maybe the guys launch
> techniques need some refining.
>
> --
> -Jeff Crabtree
>     '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
>           '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
>                St. Louis, MO
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 11:49:42 PST
From: "Eric Lotter" <elotter@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

 

Various publications have the 3S cars from 13.8 to 14.1. Stock.
for 91-93

R+T just put out a depressingly low 14.1 for the 99

My car with no driving experince and the K+N only ran a 14.01 @98.6 MPH 
Fun stuff!

Eric
(I am missing it as I try out this West Coast thing... )

>Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:38:53 -0600
>From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
>To: stealth@starnet.net,
>        "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>
>Does anybody know what the generally accepted stock times/speeds are
for
>a first gen TT/VR-4?
>
>I was watching a show on ESPN2 and somebody was running a 1996 Viper
>GTS(stock).....12.2!? Seemed pretty slow....maybe the guys launch
>techniques need some refining.
>
>--
>-Jeff Crabtree
>    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
>          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
>               St. Louis, MO
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:06:12 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

> My car with no driving experince and the K+N only ran a 14.01 @98.6 MPH
> Fun stuff!

Before any mods I ran a G-Tech 14.12@102mph. With FIPK and the BOV (wait !) I
broke into the 13's barrier. The BOV helped me in reducing the lag (my very
personal feeling) of the 13Gs. As I'm a bad starter with always toasting the
clutch I'm sure some else would see 13.6 with these mods (5-gear). With teh DSBC
and boost cranked up to 1.05bars I saw 13.25 (G-Tech)

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:25:25 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pre-cat Gutting

In a message dated 1/14/99 9:17:22 AM Eastern Standard Time,
bbedell@austin.rr.com writes:

<<
 I have just recently failed my emission test here in Maryland (State
 Standard for Carbon Monoxide 20.0 mine was 23.7)  I have both pre-cats and a
 high flow cat.  Any ideas? >>
******Try a few gallons of 87 octane gas on an empty tank right
        before  testing.
                            Wayne 3SI #87
                             '91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:46:49 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

In a message dated 1/15/99 2:40:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com writes:

<<
 
 Does anybody know what the generally accepted stock times/speeds are for
 a first gen TT/VR-4?
 
 I was watching a show on ESPN2 and somebody was running a 1996 Viper
 GTS(stock).....12.2!? Seemed pretty slow....maybe the guys launch
 techniques need some refining. >>
   ********12.2 slow? You must run in some fast company!
        Stock 3S's (1st gen) run about 13.7- 14.3 @ 97- 101 mph.
        BTW, the trap on that GTS was probably about 118 mph.
        But you can modify our cars for very little and they go in snow.
                                  Wayne 3SI #87
                                   '91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:59:40 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: Team3S: Nose Guard in the rain??

So anyone have a definitive answer about the effects of leaving a nose guard
(bra) on after it gets wet?  I've always heard this is s big no-no as far as
the paint job goes.  However, since moving to Washington, where the winter
is rainy and they dump all this stinking gravel/sand on the road, I've seen
many people who apparently leave their bras on their cars for months at a
time.  Even nice cars- like a couple 3/S's around here, and especially
riceboy cars (who even if they're worth laughing at usually take good care
of their cars).   So does it really cloud the paint to leave the nose guards
on after they get wet?  I'm only using mine in the summer now, but with all
the gravel on the roads now, I'm having second thoughts about leaving it off
in the winter. 

- --Erik

- ------                                                        ----------
Erik Gross                \\Intel Corporation//
DP2-313(*W)
*SET-CA SLS       Performance Microprocessor Division      371-2516(*W)
*erik.gross@intel.com     (888)493-4910(*P)               912-4405(*H)
- ------                                                        ----------
   "You do not have to sit outside in the dark.
    If, however, you want to look at the stars,
        you will find that darkness is required.
    The stars neither require it nor demand it."
                                               --Annie Dillard
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
**  Unless otherwise specified, all opinions and views expressed in this
  message are not endorsed, sponsored, provided, or on behalf of Intel.
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:08:43 -0700
From: Andrew Brilliant <andrew@attitudeink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Nose Guard in the rain??

I used to own an Eclipse and it did just.. clouded up the paint, this greyish color, on
a white GS-T. I was luckily able to get all but a tiny spot off, I guess I caught it in
time.  After that, I started washing it at least once a week, and removing the bra,
spaying it off, and drying it before putting it on the car.  Also If it started getting
loose I would heat it in the oven to 150, and then put it on in the cold, fit nice after
that.

"Gross, Erik" wrote:

> So anyone have a definitive answer about the effects of leaving a nose guard
> (bra) on after it gets wet?  I've always heard this is s big no-no as far as
> the paint job goes.  However, since moving to Washington, where the winter
> is rainy and they dump all this stinking gravel/sand on the road, I've seen
> many people who apparently leave their bras on their cars for months at a
> time.  Even nice cars- like a couple 3/S's around here, and especially
> riceboy cars (who even if they're worth laughing at usually take good care
> of their cars).   So does it really cloud the paint to leave the nose guards
> on after they get wet?  I'm only using mine in the summer now, but with all
> the gravel on the roads now, I'm having second thoughts about leaving it off
> in the winter.
>
> --Erik
>
> ------                                                        ----------
> Erik Gross                \\Intel Corporation//
> DP2-313(*W)
> *SET-CA SLS       Performance Microprocessor Division      371-2516(*W)
> *erik.gross@intel.com     (888)493-4910(*P)               912-4405(*H)
> ------                                                        ----------
>    "You do not have to sit outside in the dark.
>     If, however, you want to look at the stars,
>         you will find that darkness is required.
>     The stars neither require it nor demand it."
>                                                --Annie Dillard
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> **  Unless otherwise specified, all opinions and views expressed in this
>   message are not endorsed, sponsored, provided, or on behalf of Intel.
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:33:58 EST
From: MrX2111@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Team3S: Nose Guard in the rain??

If you leave it on do not plan on taking it off.  It will discolor the nose
the uncovered areas with age differently.  A car bra is either a permanent
ornament or not at all.

IMHO
Xannieria
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:51:21 -0500
From: "Trent" <rtrent@nlci.com>
Subject: Team3S: Viper Compare

For what it's worth, (I have no intention of initiating Viper talk on the
list) I had an opportunity to drive a Viper GTS a few weeks ago.  The trans
was definitely clunky, ergonomics were an afterthought, but oh what a sight
to behold.  Power was infinitely manageable, so much so, that when I finally
got a chance to punch it from a rolling stop, the lack of wheelspin left me
confused.  I ran it up WOT in second and part way through third.  The
generous driver gave myself, and 4 other co-workers a good 10-15min each.
Compared with my 13g equiped 92TT, 1st felt a bit slower, 2nd felt about the
same, and it wasn't unitl 3rd that this monster V10 seemed to out accelerate
the Stealth.  My co-workers agreed, one even going as far as to say the
Stealth seemed to accelerate harder.  Given the inherant inaccuracy of the
butt dyno I recognize that these results are tenuous at best.  On the
otherhand, I would be lying if I didn't say I was dissapointed with the lack
of acceleration. If I owned one, it wouldn't be long before I had to
subsidise the aftermarket industry again.

Regards,
DaveT/92TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:04:04 -0500
From: phnxgld@erols.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

Hi,
  I've got a 94 VR4 with 89k miles and factory plugs and wires.  When I say factory I
mean the 60k service has not been done yet, these plugs and wires have 89k miles on
them.  I've run at Capitol Raceway on 2 ocasions.  My very first run was a 14.1 or
better, then I got a 13.64@102.5 and a 13.60@101.5.   It was about 70 degrees during
those runs, and I do have a Weapon-R air filter which I doubt is as good as K&N and
similar filters.  At any rate, the second day I ran, I had a 14.07, 2 that were around
13.7, a 13.39 and a 13.36@102.54.  I'd been trying different launching techniques and
spun too much on the fastest run.  I'm hoping to do a 13.2 with a better launch,
although I may start modding the car before then.  Taking what I'd seen in magazines, I
would have been happy with a 14.0 considering the mileage on my car and the fact that I
don't drive it like granny.

Hope that helps some,
Jason
94 VR4 "I HERTZM"
13.36@102.54

"R.G." wrote:

> > My car with no driving experince and the K+N only ran a 14.01 @98.6 MPH
> > Fun stuff!
>
> Before any mods I ran a G-Tech 14.12@102mph. With FIPK and the BOV (wait !) I
> broke into the 13's barrier. The BOV helped me in reducing the lag (my very
> personal feeling) of the 13Gs. As I'm a bad starter with always toasting the
> clutch I'm sure some else would see 13.6 with these mods (5-gear). With teh DSBC
> and boost cranked up to 1.05bars I saw 13.25 (G-Tech)
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:36:08 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Ticking revisited

Yo lads;

Whereas air  in the upper chamber 'may' be the problem with your
ticking, (too much or too little oil will cause this as per the manual's
advise)  I found that the slow rev 10 times fix described in the  manual
and subsequently restated recently here, did not help in my case. Try a
ten minute oil flush with a reputable product and see if that helps, as
it certainly did with me and a few others who posted early here, during
the birthing of this group.  Also use only a full synthetic oil
(especially with the Turbos) thereafter, and insure you are using the
proper weight for your conditions. If you are operating in cold
temperatures,  5w-30  is advised (60F to -20F). 10w-30 is advised as a
general all condition oil (-10F to 120F)  and 20w-40 is advised  for
temperatures 32F to120F. Additives have been discussed at length in the
past (some legal proceedings are in the offing) and are not worth the
money...use a good synthetic and you should be smiling. Clean the engine
with a good flush before you put new oil in this time. Do you wax before
you wash your car.

Please note: Oil weights posted above are  for Turbo models...Non Turbos
use 5w-20-30-40 for temps from 60F to -20F....use 10w-20-40-50 for temps
from -10F to 120F, and use 20w-40-50 for temps 32F to 120F. All temps
are politely posted for you who still use F, whereas the rest of the
planet is cruising on C. : ) : ) ; )

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:50:54 -0700
From: Tom Wilson <kb7get@cyberhighway.net>
Subject: Team3S: Oil Filters

 All this talk about oil filters and lash ticking has me in the
mood to tell of my experiances so far.
  I have a 91 rt/tt that I got about 4 years ago with 14.5k on it.
Since then I have only ran NAPA oil filters (has anti-drain valve
in it) and castrol synthitic. 5w50 the first 3 years and trying
the 10w-30 since last march when I had a few mods done. Standard
intake, exhaust and boost controller, nothing wild (yet hehe).
 I now have around 44k on the car and have not had any lifter
ticking. Don't know the price differance on filters since I have
never bought a stock mitsy or dodge filter for the car. Will look
at work and see just what the walk in price of a filter is. I work
at a NAPA store so the cost +10% is a very good inducement for my
buying the filters there.:)
 I also was wanting to ask if any others out here have noticed any
oil pressure differance between the weights of oil? Seem to me that
I had a touch higher oil pressure at idle with the 5-50w than I am
getting with the 10-30w. Seems about the same at highway speeds or
under hard throttle.

kb7get@cyberhighway.net

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:48:06 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash

> -----Original Message-----
> From: John [mailto:adams@icx.net]
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash
>
>
> Arty's method will work fine if you have a buildup of
> deposits in your lash adjusters
> and causing the oil to not flow properly, however, the main
> reason for the ticking is
> caused by air getting into the lash adjusters. Check out the
> web page in the Repair
> Center under the  "Service" heading based on the manual and
> then make your determination
> if you think you are in need of Arty's fix.           #1
> check your oil level. It is
> critical in preventing this.

John (or others),
Two quick questions:

<BTW, I know my oil level is ok since I just changed it>

1)  As for buildup of deposits, would 3.5 years/47,000 miles be enough tile
for significant buildups to develop?

2)  Is the ticking from the lash adjusters bad for the engine, or just
acoustically annoying?

Thanks!
- --Erik

- ------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
- ------                                             ----------
   "You do not have to sit outside in the dark.
    If, however, you want to look at the stars,
        you will find that darkness is required.
    The stars neither require it nor demand it."
                                             --Annie Dillard
- -------------------------------------------------------------

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:09:17 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bearings

I can't remember which list this question came from but I think the
information might be useful to both list.
Someone had asked the question about  where they could buy a bearing
kit. While, I was in tranny hell I  went to a bearing shop. The shop
informed me that the had bearing that should fit my tranny, but before
they would sell them to me they wanted to do a direct comparison with my
old part.

- --
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO 80202-2994
Voice: (303) 624-0803
Home:  (719) 573-1775
Fax:   (303) 624-1288


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:35:53 -0500
From: John <adams@icx.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Ticking noise / Valve lash

"Gross, Erik" wrote:
John (or others),

>         Two quick questions:
>
> <BTW, I know my oil level is ok since I just changed it>
>
> 1)  As for buildup of deposits, would 3.5 years/47,000 miles be enough tile
> for significant buildups to develop?

This would depend on type of oil used and also frequency of oil and filter changes.
There has been some that say changing the filter every other time is advantageous,
allowing the filter to clog a little and trap finer particles. I do not support this
theory  The fact is, the damaging particles are in the 10 to 15 micron range and that is
what the filter is designed to remove. Each particle it catches is one less particle of
it's capacity and further particles of this size stand a greater chance of bypassing
back to the engine. It is when all these particles collect in an area that sludge
develops. Once the sludge develops it breaks free occasionally and gets lodged in
smaller passageways such as the lash adjusters. When oil can not get into the lash
adjuster to expand it, the ticking is the result. (This is where you would use Arty's
Marvel Oil fix) If you have changed your oil and filter at regular intervals and not
exceeding around the 4000 mile mark you should not have a sludge buildup. If however you
are using a standard detergent oil, (which is Ok for your model, non turbo) on a turbo
model you could develop sludge from the coking effect of the high heat turbo bearing
area. A synthetic is recommended for turbos because of this effect.

> 2)  Is the ticking from the lash adjusters bad for the engine, or just
> acoustically annoying?

Considering how the sound is made will determine if it could cause damage. The lash
adjuster noise is not really a lash adjuster noise. Is is due to the lash adjuster which
is supposed to take up the slack hydraulically, not doing it's job. The sound actually
comes from the cam striking the roller bearing on the center of the rocker and / or the
rocker striking the valve stem or lash adjuster. If not treated and allowed to continue
the results can be a failed rocker roller bearing or uneven wear or edge breaking of the
cam, lash adjuster or valve stem. They will take a lot of abuse, but eventually will
take it's toll on one of those parts.

Most welcome sir

John

> Thanks!
> --Erik
>
> ------                                             ----------
> Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
> '95 Pearl White 3000GT 47k mi - resonatorless + bald tire mod
> ------                                             ----------
>    "You do not have to sit outside in the dark.
>     If, however, you want to look at the stars,
>         you will find that darkness is required.
>     The stars neither require it nor demand it."
>                                              --Annie Dillard
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

- --

John Adams  91 3000GT/TT VR4 Monza Red
John's Repair Center: http://user.icx.net/~adams/repair_main.htm
My Sportscar Pages: http://user.icx.net/~adams/sportscar.htm
Florida Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/flmeet.htm
Cape Cod Quickening: http://user.icx.net/~adams/quickening.htm
Atlanta Gathering: http://user.icx.net/~adams/atlanta_gathering1098.htm


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:07:42 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bearings

Richard,

That sounds good, since there are a few bearings in our transaxles and they
are
not cheap.  I'm currently in "tranny hell" as you put it, and my shop
thought that
they might be able to find a countershaft bearing from somewhere else.
These parts
have such close tolerances that I'm not kidding when I suggest that you
measure
both parts with a micrometer before you buy it.

- -Bob from tranny hell

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 23:09:51 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock 1/4 mile times?

TTurboAWD@aol.com wrote:

>
>    ********12.2 slow? You must run in some fast company!
>         Stock 3S's (1st gen) run about 13.7- 14.3 @ 97- 101 mph.
>         BTW, the trap on that GTS was probably about 118 mph.
>

When I said that seems slow, I meant "slow" considering the cost and prestige of the
Viper GTS....it just seemed odd to me that a car of that nature could only run a little
faster than a slightly modded 3S.  Hell...we've got guys running low 11's.

- --
- -Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 14:43:18 -0800
From: Roger Ludwig Jr <yiotta@e-z.net>
Subject: Team3S: wheels & rubber

Time to start fixing up my 94 3000GT SL... new 17" wheels and tires.
So many choices.... any thoughts would be appreciated.  I need good wet
performance tires as I live in the northwest....
check out this link and tell me if you think these would look nice on a
3000.
Thanx
Roger Ludwig
Vancouver Washington

 http://www.superbuytires.com/cgi-bin/findsbtwheel?415

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #75
***************************

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