--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #65
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Precedence:
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Team3S Digest
Tuesday, January 5 1999 Volume
01 : Number
065
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 06:12:30 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Ticking Noise in Dash
Roger and Bill,
Thanks
for the ideas. I will try both and see how they
work
out.
Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 07:43:37 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
I never told this story, but it
seems appropriate, now.
At the end of the shutdown lane after 1/4 mile
runs, I like to pop the hood.
I usually do this at 15 MPH and it allows a
little cool air to be pushed
into the engine bay after the run. Not
sure how much good it does, but,
it's one of those quirky things that I start
doing and out of superstition,
am afraid to stop doing.
Another bad
habit (which I've since stopped) was to race my RX-7 and Supra
friends on Bee
Line Highway on the way back to Palm Beach from Moroso. This
is an
8-mile stretch of 4 lane divided highway that is so perfectly straight
that
on a clear day, you can see the full 8 miles.
Well, one night after the
last run, I headed home, racing Supras and RX-7s
at speeds up to 160 MPH on
the Bee Line. I don't remember who won -- that's
not the point,
although not getting killed was probably the point. Anyway,
when I got
home, I went to check the oil and found that my hood was
unlatched. It
had been that way ever since the end of my last run at
Moroso, 45 miles
away.
- -Bob
<snip> I've wondered ever since then what gains
I might
> see if I could rig a safety latch to keep the hood open that
amount
> without fearing having it pop open fully along the track.
It was a hot
> day, but the engine felt much stronger during that
run. <shrug> I have
> all winter to work on
it.
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 14:21:28 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Field fuel computer
I just got this link from a Supra buddy
:
http://www.cardome.com/field/english/lineup/hyper-r/index.html
If
you plan to add a fuel computer it is worth to look at it. It's a
combination
of Fuel Computer (like the AFC) with a banal A/F meter and a
G-Tech Pro
accelerometer built in. The add says it can more but a lot are
just relative
measures.
Enjoy, Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 08:47:40 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
Hey Errin;
I like your choice of music. :
) Make me smile.
As I noted earlier, both you and Jim are running
second generation cars... mine is a
first generation, and I do not get
the hoot with the K&N and SAVC-R, which you both are
also using. It may
be that after running past 1.2, something occurs that causes this
feature to
be constant, but up until this point, I do not have the
sound.
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 12:11:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: cool air intake idea
Hi All,
One of the members of the starnet
group already designed in interesting
cold-air intake system. It
addressed problems of water and debris, and
reportedly gained something like
15hp. It was specifically designed for
non-turboes. (Yay for the
little guys...)
I have the URL at home, but when I tried it out last
night, the connection
was down. (Not surprising, given the weather in
that part of the country
over the weekend.) I'll check it again
tonight, and post it when I find
out that it's back up again.
Dennis
Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Change is
disruptive - but that's the point!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 13:00:50 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: HP by way of 1/4 mile times
Excuse my egnorance does drive
wheel = fly wheel?
> ----------
> From: bcdmad@concentric.net[SMTP:bcdmad@concentric.net] on
behalf
> of Brian Danley[SMTP:bcdmad@concentric.net]
>
Reply To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Sent: Monday, December 28, 1998 6:12 PM
> To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
Subject: HP by way of 1/4 mile times
>
> I found this on a web site
and found it interesting. This is how you
> can calculate hp from ¼ mile
times. Now this doesn't take into effect AWD
> RWD or FWD.
>
>
> 8<---------------------------------------------
> How
Much Power?
> We all hear those ridiculous horsepower claims from people
from time
> to time. What is fact and what is fiction? There are a few
ways to find
> out the truth;
> You can put the engine on an engine
dyno. You can put the car on a
> chassis dyno. You can use the proven
formula below if you have a quarter
> mile run and an accurate car weight
with you aboard.
> Just as an inertial dyno uses mass and acceleration to
calculate
> power, we can use the vehicle weight, speed and time to
calculate this
> figure:
> The magic formula is:
> ¼ mile
speed in mph, squared, divided by ET in seconds Multiplied by
>
>
car
> weight in pounds over 1000 Divided by 9.1 = HP.
> Example: We
have a car which weighs 2000 pounds with driver and it
> runs a ¼ mile of
15 seconds at 100 mph.
> 100 X 100/15 = 666.66
> 666.66 X 2000/1000
= 1333.32
> 1333.32/9.1 = 146.52 hp
> This formula has proven to be
very accurate on a wide variety of vehicles
> and represents the drive
wheel hp. Notice that speed in the ¼ mile is the
> important factor with
regards to power. The ET is less important and
> affected considerably by
traction, so when your buddy says that he did a
> 14 second ET, find out
what the speed was. He may just have great traction
> but not a lot of
power.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 10:13:30 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: HP by way of 1/4 mile times
> Excuse my egnorance does
drive wheel = fly wheel?
No. Somewhere between 15% to 20% of
flywheel HP is lost due to
drivetrain friction and wind resistance.
Thus rear wheel HP
measurements are always lower then flywheel HP.
-
--
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 15:13:38 EST
From: NYMaxxNY@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Bone
Heads.. and Parts cost answer
<< any of you would
know
the price to replace the plastic passenger side door trim on
a 1991
Stealth TT. I
also have a
medium sized dent in the door and I am not sure if the
door
needs to be
replaced or not, so if any one of you know the
price of a complete door
replacement I
>>would be very
appreciative.
I have a used plastic door molding for a 91 stealth
RT/TT driver's side only.
$50.
I also have a passenger door without a
molding. $500 Neg.
Max.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 15:02:45 -0600
From: sjc0u812@juno.com (Scott J
Cowan)
Subject: Re: Team3S: oil survey
Chris:
Thanks, I
wondered what that was all about (my apologies to all for my
tardiness and a
belated Happy New Year to all):
>1. Vehicle: 1992 3000GTVR4
>2. Current mileage: 105K
>2. Oil weight: 10W30
>3. Oil
brand: Mobil1
>4. Filter brand: Mitsu
>5. Additives: None to oil,
Techron to gas when it feels like it needs
it.
>6. Change frequency:
Approx. every 3K
>7. Observations: I get a ticking, sometimes mild, other
times louder,
very inconsistent, sometimes it scares me, but it goes away
Thanks,
Scott
___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 99 16:05:00 EST
From: "Alan Monarchi GANGUS@VNET.IBM.COM" <gangus@VNET.IBM.COM>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Oil
survey
Vehicle:
92 Stealth ES
Current mileage: 101,000 miles
Oil
weight: 10W-30
Oil
brand: Castrol GTX
Filter
brand:
Fram
Additives: Slick 50 once
- at 20K before I knew better
Change frequency: Every 3000
miles...religiously
Observations: Works for me
- no problems. I have
recently
started adding 2 quarts of 5W30 with 2.5 of
10W-30
for the winter months in NY as temps seem to go
fairly low. I thought
I'd go to a slightly
thinner
oil. I guess that means I'm somewhere around
8W50
in the winter.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 13:31:40 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: BOV sounds
- -----Original Message-----
From: Errin D.
Humphrey [mailto:errin@u.washington.edu]
Sent:
Monday, January 04, 1999 11:21 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV questions
<snip>
To put it another way, the
new HKS SSBOV is flashy, gimmicky,
and somewhat pompous in style. Its
sound is very unique and draws
much attention to itself. It
necessitates the elimination of the stock
bypass valve which leaks at high
boost. Form is a bit higher than
funtion. The Blitz SSBOV is simple,
straightforward, and utilizes the old
ways (ie, the stock bypass
valve). Function is high, and benefits might
be had b/c of using the
stock b.v., but form falls a bit behind the HKS.
The whooshing sound of the
Blitz is strong, yet subdued, and it sounds
not unlike a whale exhaling
through its blowhole--perfect for the nature
enthusiast. The HKS, on
the other hand, has more of a mechanical
"chatter" to it--perfect if you want
your car to sound high-tech. The
GReddy sounds somewhere between a Star
Wars laser blast and a
chipmunk--perfect for ... uhhh ... I'll pass on this
one.
Well I hope this helps, and I welcome any
corrections/comments. :)
<end of snip>
Errin's
correct...the Blitz has what he described as a "whoooosh" sound as
it
releases pressure. "Mechanical" is accurate for the HKS, although
the
"skreet" mine makes also reminds me of running my fingernails down
a
blackboard. I can't say I care for the sound, but the HKS fits really
well
in the area vacated when I changed over to a Predator battery. I
also
eliminated a half a pound or so by pulling the stock valve. I don't
think
I've ever heard a GReddy. The Blitz is by far the best seller on the
market,
but I doubt that anyone has ever done any serious comparison of
performance
gains. The "perception" of faster spooling after a shift is real,
but that's
what it is...perception.
ENJOY!!!
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 14:30:58 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Cool air intake idea (pretty long)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent:
Sunday, January 03, 1999 3:30 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
Hey Jim, Chris,
Brad.....
Has anyone considered cutting a couple of intake vents in the
front air dam
and
channeling the air from these to the appropriate
locations? A person could
maybe even
make it 4 small inlets with the air
ducting then available for cooling as
well as for
breathing. Some
reinforcing would be necessary as the dam (at least on the
Stealths)
is
pretty flimsy.
On another note, the gills on the side of our cars
are totally aesthetic,
but vents
cut from the engine
compartment and channeled to these locations would make
them more
than
"purty," and like the rear facing hood extractors (from Bozz), funnel
hot
gases out
of our tightly sealed compartments.( Just an idea for someone
with the
equipment.) If
the hood tower blisters and side gills could
be made functional, I believe
the
temperature problem would be
history. While I'm at it, does anyone know how
we can
instal a tail
and wings so we can actually get these things off the ground
:
)
Best
Darc
=====================================
Darcy...
Here's
one of those cases where I took a discussion offline to conserve
bandwidth,
and it came back up on the list anyway.
To answer both your questions
(excluding the one about wings and a tail
:-)), it depends on the year and
model. My 1995 VR4 has no "gills" on the
sides, but I know that some years
did. Perhaps all years with the Stealth?
Conversations with Jim Matthews and
Rich LeRoy have led me to the conclusion
there's also going to be differences
between TT and NT models, as well as
different model years and Stealth versus
3KGT. The Active Aero feature (VR4s
only, then only some years) has a panel
that extends the full width of the
engine compartment and probably close to
thirty inches in depth (towards the
firewall). This seals the engine
compartment even more effectively (no doubt
excellent for aerodynamics, but
raises the engine bay temps even more).
Ahhh, what a wonderful mess.
:-)
Anyway, in my case, I have a set of front mounted intercoolers that I
need
to install. When I'm done, the stock intercoolers can be removed,
which
frees up the two horizontal slots on each side of the bumper (just to
the
outside of the driving lights). Again, I don't believe these slots exist
on
all models, all years. But, in the case of my 1995 VR4, it will be
a
"simple" matter to route some ducting from the passenger side slots to
the
area below and behind the fuse box. This will provide strong air flow to
the
HKS intake. I may even do the same on the driver's side, just to
increase
the flow out through the slot along the windshield where the
weather
stripping has been removed. Although this isn't ram air (and Jim has
made
some strong points for why we need to be careful with ram air), it
will
provide a huge increase in air flow. Keep in mind two
additional
variables...
1. I'm not concerned about ambient air
temperature as it rarely gets above
80F in Portland, normally below
70F.
2. I'm not concerned about rain spraying through these ducts and into
my
engine compartment, as I have a fair weather vehicle, not a daily
driver.
Sorry about the length of this, but this is one of those cases
where it
would take an elaborate matrix to track all the variables. What
sounds like
a good solution for one vehicle may not be transferable for
another vehicle.
Who said this would be easy? :-)
Best
wishes!!!
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride
with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
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our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 17:00:05 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
- -----Original Message-----From: Dennis
Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
|One of
the members of the Starnet group already designed in interesting
|cold-air
intake system. It addressed problems of water and debris,
and
|reportedly gained something like 15hp. It was specifically
designed for
|non-turboes. (Yay for the little guys...)
-
----------snip---------
If it's the prototype "RamAire"™ system you're
talking about, much of what
they claimed for a HP gain was attributable to
the K&N alone, and the system
required removal of the fog lights, which I
found unacceptable. An
alternative worth looking at, IMO, was the one
designed by Pete
Much2fst4u@aol.com ,
which collected cool air from the wheel well using a
Home Depot furnace vent
or something... Both systems straightened out the
path of the incoming
air from the K&N/MAS to the throttle body (by removing
the intake elbow
where the resonator is normally attached). RamAire kept
the rest of the
path straight by sacrificing the fog light, but Pete's
system required 2
elbows off the wheel well vent...
Both systems would cause an increase in
HP due to the cooler air entering
the throttle body... The rule
is: an 11 degree drop in temperature causes
a gain of 1% (on a 222hp
NT, that's 2.2hp). So if you can drop the
temperature of the heated air
normally sucked in by the K&N (I'll guess 125
degrees in the engine
compartment, for a nice round number) down to 70
degree ambient air from
outside the wheel well, that's a difference of 55
degrees; that should yield
a benefit of 5% (5 x 2.2=11), or 11 hp. Again,
it's a guesstimate, but
"ramming" the air into the throttle body probably
yields an additional,
although somewhat smaller gain, and is a function of
the speed of the car
(standing still = zero "ram" effect). (Pete's design
probably doesn't
have a ram effect).
I tried my own "ram air" system using two snaking 4"
tubes in a "Y" into a
single tube, one from behind the fog light and the
other facing the ground
right behind it. They went into a custom cover
for the K&N. The difference
was slight, nowhere near as fancy as
Pete's, and it was UGLY, so I'm back to
stock... And waiting for
someone to come up with a supercharger
idea...
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 17:19:32 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bone Heads.. and Parts cost answer
I tried to reply to your
address noted below, but it was returned as undeliverable??? So
it's a quick
post here...do you have the plastic trim piece that fits up against
the
drivers window?? And, who are you?
Darcy
NYMaxxNY@aol.com wrote:
> <<
any of you would
> know the price to replace the plastic passenger
side door trim on a 1991
> Stealth TT.
I
> also have a medium sized dent in the door and I am not sure if
the door
> needs to be
> replaced or not, so
if any one of you know the price of a complete door
> replacement
I
> >>would be very appreciative.
>
> I have
a used plastic door molding for a 91 stealth RT/TT driver's side only.
>
$50.
> I also have a passenger door without a molding. $500
Neg.
>
> Max.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 17:21:51 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Cool air intake idea )
Chris Winkley wrote:
> To
answer both your questions (excluding the one about wings and a tail
>
:-)), it depends on the year and model. My 1995 VR4 has no "gills" on
the
> sides, but I know that some years did. Perhaps all years with the
Stealth?
I believe all RT and TT years of Stealth have the gills. The VR4
Mitsus are not sold in
Canada for reasons which are not sane, considering the
lower end of the Mitsus are
flogged here. So, I appologize for assuming they
were similar to the Stealth line ( the
lower end of Stealths also do not have
the gills) I assumed these sibling high end
cars followed each
other in design quite closely, but apparently they diverged
significantly in
94.
> Conversations with Jim Matthews and Rich LeRoy have led me to
the conclusion
> there's also going to be differences between TT and NT
models, as well as
> different model years and Stealth versus
3KGT.
Are there exterior differences in the Stealth line between the RT
and TT, other than a
single/dual exhaust and some lettering????? In the
VR4's??
> The Active Aero feature (VR4s
> only, then only some
years) has a panel that extends the full width of the
> engine compartment
and probably close to thirty inches in depth (towards the
> firewall).
This seals the engine compartment even more effectively (no doubt
>
excellent for aerodynamics, but raises the engine bay temps even more).
>
Ahhh, what a wonderful mess. :-)
I've gotta have me a look in one
of your cars...at least under the hood and at that
front active aero.
Grass always has a different shade of green on the other side of
the
fence : )
As for the air cooling systems...well, let's keep
the group posted.... I'll crawl under
mine and see if I really want to
start this job. My back and neck are protesting before
I even get out the
jack.
Best
Darcy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 4 Jan 1999 22:30:05 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@texas.net>
Subject: Team3S:
stuff for sale
Hey everyone I have yet some more parts
available.
VPC with stock injector chip:
550.00
EVC
III
300.00
Gauges: All have white faces Greddy has discontinued these
gauges.
Greddy 52mm boost gauge
100.00
52mm EGT
(2)
250.00
(pair)
60mm Water Temp 125.00 (probe never
installed)
60mm Oil Temp
125.00 (Probe Never Installed)
60mm Oil
Pressure 100.00 (Missing the oil
lines)
Stock Intercoolers &
Pipes 300.00 (offers?)
Stock
Injectors
(6)
150.00
Stock Turbos
(4)
Offers
Stock Exhaust
manifolds
Offers
Stock Intake
Manifold
Offers *(upper & lower)
Stock fuel
rail
Offers
Stock Throttle
Body
Offers
Set of
Heads
600.00 pair
Stock Springs (2
sets)
Offers
I think that about covers it for now. I am going to post
this message to
the parts trader in a
week.
Thanks,
> Brad
>
> Check out my
home page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
>
E-Mail: bbedell@texas.net ICQ#
3612682
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------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 05 Jan 1999 10:19:18 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
RE: cool air intake idea
O.K. Here's my take and input on this,
Especially for the NT guys. I
have a friend who can weld and bend some pipe,
so i'm gonna try to have
a new pipe that comes from the throttle boda
straight out where i'm
gonna put the MAS, then have it slope gently downward
until it's behind
the radiator, and have a mounting bracket for the K&N
there. I beleive
it will help for many reasons. I'll have him use aluminum
tubing, and
aluminum is a poor conductor of heat, plus i'll put that header
wrap
stuff on it to keep it cool, so it will have a cooler temp,
and
straighter path into the throttle body. then, instead of
stock
location, where all of that rising heat from the tranny case, as well
as
the engine and radiator is factored into the underhood temps, i'll
just
have the radiator heat to contend with, and because heat rises,
down
lower should be cooler. It also should somewhat prevent water
from
getting in, as the water would have to go through the nose and
the
radiator to land directly on the filter, and i'll bet against that,
and
lastly, it'll have some ram-air effect, as the ait will be rushing
by
the radiator and on to my filter. Lastly, i might eventually add
a
twinturbozet, as they have a new twin fan system that i could cut
the
pipe and add it in where needed. If i get this done, and the
pipe
fabricating works well, where i notice a difference, i'll see if
these
pipes can be fabricated so that anyone else could get one if
they
wanted. But i have to get the car back and get the new tranny in
it
before anyhing :-(((
Matt
3/Si #311
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #65
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