--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #64
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Team3S Digest
Monday, January 4 1999 Volume 01
: Number
064
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 01:59:32 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
cool air intake idea
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If
cool air intake isolated from the engine compartment is what you are
after,
check out Brad Bedell's setup. So far I have seen nothing better
for
our cars.
The web site wasn't up so I won't post it. Maybe
Brad can shed some more
light on his
installaton.
Regards,
Barry
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 11:25:25 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: cool air intake idea
Jim Matthews wrote:
>
>
Anyone care to comment on this? Possible? Worthwhile?
Crazy?
>
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.html
>
> Thanx... -Jim
"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> If cool air intake isolated from the engine compartment is what you
are
> after, check out Brad Bedell's setup. So far I have seen
nothing better for
> our cars.
>
> The web site wasn't up so
I won't post it. Maybe Brad can shed some more
> light on his
installaton.
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry
>
Thanx for the tip! Here is the only picture I could find of his
custom
intake:
http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell/PICS/engine1098.jpg
Not
sure what's going on behind the scenes. I'm afraid that since he
has an
aftermarket intercooler in front of his radiator, it is likely
that he is
using the stock passenger side intercooler location for his
intake
hose. But I'd love to hear more about this system and what kind
of
performance gains were realized, if any. Brad, are you out there?
-
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 09:14:08 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
- -----Original Message-----
From:
Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent:
Saturday, January 02, 1999 6:20 AM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: cool air
intake idea
Anyone care to comment on this? Possible?
Worthwhile? Crazy?
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/intake.html
Thanx...
-Jim
================================
Jim...
I really like the
front mounted (below the bumper) air scoop, but wouldn't
that necessitate
removing the Active Aero assembly? The headlight trick is a
neat one, but
seems like a track only approach. I like my headlights, they
help quite a bit
in the dark. :-)
Someone asked about the Bozz Speed strut tower
scoops, I know Arty has a set
(but they only work on first gen, unless you're
willing to cut your hood).
Keep in mind, they look and work great, but are
for exhaust purposes, not
intake. Of course, if you have a way to exhaust the
air, it should draw more
in from under the car. Again, the scoop under the
bumper would be great.
It also appears there's a way to force air in
through the stock intercooler
vents in the bumper (if the stock units have
been replaced with a
aftermarket intercooler), but that still leaves the
exhaust issue. Brad
Bedell's approach looks neat, but it's not clear where
the sheet metal box
is getting it's air. From a vent in the wheel well? That
would certainly
pull dirt and water off the tires.
One trick Rich
LeRoy has used (hope you don't mind me posting this Rich), is
to remove the
rubber seal at the windshield end of the hood. While this is
only 1/4" gap or
so, it lets some of that hot air out of the engine
compartment. Seems like
this, along with some ingenious intake tricks, is a
good
solution.
Finally, has anyone had experience with the carbon fiber hood
that Brian (GT
Alley) used to sell? It had a scoop on it. I was wondering if
it had a
drain, or filter, that keeps the water and dirt from flowing in
along with
the air. Another neat feature of this approach is that the carbon
fiber hood
was supposed to weigh seven pounds (versus the stock seventy).
That's a very
impressive weight reduction.
Please keep us updated on
your experiments.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 11:27:15 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S: GT
Alley CF hood
Chris Winkley wrote:
> anyone had experience with
carbon fiber hood Brian (GT
> Alley) used to sell? It had a scoop on it.
wondering if had
> drain/filter keeps water/dirt from flowing in
>
carbon fiber hood supposed to weigh seven pounds (versus the stock seventy).
I have hood. Mine is stock/no scoops. It weighs about 17-18
lbs
actual, while stock is 48 pounds (both weighed by me on same scale)
so
lose about 30 lbs only. Fit not great, about 3mm offset to
passenger
side at front edge. Has stock hoodlatch that I won't trust, I
am
putting hoodpins on also. Looks ok not perfect.
Jack T.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 10:51:12 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Plugs
Weird. The "E" refers to a 19mm seat while the "F" refers to
a tapered
seat. The two do not mix very well and are generally not
intercgangeable.
The correct stock plug is the PFR6J-11.
Here's the
run-down:
P - projected tip
F - tapered seat
R - resistor
6 -
heat range, larger numbers being colder
J - platinum
- -11 refers to the
factory preset gap of 0.044".
The P and F are mandatory and dictated by
the head design. Resistor plugs
are pretty much required in a street
vehicle as they affect RFI which can be
heard in the stereo and may affect
ECU operation. Contrary to what some
say, a resistor plug in a modern
car will not affect adversely ignition
performance.
Each change in
heat range is capable of removing roughly 75-100 degrees C of
heat. The
stock heat range is perfect except for highly modified engines or
extended
hard running. A colder plug would be better in those extreme
cases, but
likely not more than one range (eg, PFR7J). Going hotter is
definitely
not recommended.
Platinum plugs definitely last longer than copper.
Despite the lore that
copper makes more heat, the fact is that testing shows
no difference in
spark power output between copper and platinum up to 6000
rpm or so. Above
6000 rpm platinum is superior to copper for spark
energy output. The only
reason to use copper is economic - they are
typically much cheaper. They
will have to be gapped much more
frequently than platinum plugs since they
degrade much more rapidly. I
therefore always recommend platinum plugs
unless the plug is going into a
lawnmower.
You can pick up any pre-gapped plug and regap it -- you should
do that
anyway since the factory pre-set can be off by quit a bit by the time
it
gets to the consumer. Ideally get a pre-gapped plug as close as
possible to
your desired gap since the electrode can be weakened by excessive
movement,
but if done correctly this is typically not a concern.
Hope
that helps.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Hi Team;
>
> A quick pair of questions
on plugs.
>
> The manual quotes the NGK number for TT's as PER6J-11.
Does anyone know
> if this is the copper or the platinum
tip?
>
> I pulled my plugs and found the number PFR6J....is the F
desigination a
> hotter plug? And, it does not have any-11 behing it as
noted in the
> manual . Any ideas why?
>
> I know Bob has
indicated in the past that the copper tips are great and
> recommends them
over the pricey platinums. Can you go into this one
> again for me/us
Bob...as a refresher?
>
> Best
>
> Darc
For
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:07:44 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> I really like the front mounted (below the bumper) air scoop, but
wouldn't
> that necessitate removing the Active Aero assembly?
Not
sure, Stealths have no active aero, and I've never inspected the
system on a
VR-4 closely enough to know the answer to this.
> The headlight
trick is a
> neat one, but seems like a track only approach. I like my
headlights, they
> help quite a bit in the dark.
:-)
Agreed! On my car, removal of the passenger side headlight
module would
leave two nice round holes directly in line with the air intake
but
there is still a metal plate that would need to be circumvented.
Still,
with a little preparation, this might be a very easy mod to make at
the
track in just a few minutes.
Another point should be made about
these scoops regarding ram air
effects. Ram air sounds like a really
simple idea, but apparently it's
not. A lot of design work goes in to a
good ram air system, since most
end up working well only at certain speeds
and a poor ram air system can
actually make overall performance WORSE.
If the engine is not inhaling
as much air as is being shoved into the scoop,
a high pressure area will
form at the mouth and will push air around the
opening rather than
letting it flow inside. This is discussed in the
Honda book I mention
on my web page. One must determine the maximum air
volume demands of an
engine and try to design a system accordingly.
They mention some
strategies that include a kind of blow-off valve that
allows air to blow
past and escape the system to avoid an area of high
pressure in front of
the scoop. Just think, we could have TWO BOVs on
our cars!! It would
make the whoosh sound at high speeds AND during
shifting! :-) That's
what I need, an expensive GT that sounds
like it has a tractor trailor
air brake system on the fritz!
>
It also appears there's a way to force air in through the stock
intercooler
> vents in the bumper (if the stock units have been replaced
with a
> aftermarket intercooler), but that still leaves the exhaust
issue.
True, but in Brad's system, the air that enters through the scoop
exits
through the _engine_ exhaust. The idea here is not to just let
more
cool air enter the engine compartment and then escape somewhere else
in
the engine compartment, though that would certaily help reduce
under
hood temperatures (at the likely drawback of increased drag).
As I wrote on my web page, only testing will tell if it is better
to
completely isolate the intake system from the engine compartment or
to
just provide a good flow of cool outside air. The latter I would
expect
to alleviate the ram air problem I mentioned above.
>
One trick Rich LeRoy has used (hope you don't mind me posting this Rich),
is
> to remove the rubber seal at the windshield end of the hood. While
this is
> only 1/4" gap or so, it lets some of that hot air out of the
engine
> compartment. Seems like this, along with some ingenious intake
tricks, is a
> good solution.
Some cars actually face the scoop
BACKWARDS, drawing air from the high
pressure area at the base of the
windshield. So what happens when the
back of the hood is raised,
exactly? And why did Mitsu seal up the
engine compartment so tightly,
anyway?
> Brad Bedell's approach looks neat, but it's not clear
where the sheet metal box
> is getting it's air. From a vent in the wheel
well? That would certainly
> pull dirt and water off the
tires.
Exactly. I'm hoping he will jump in here and
elaborate. I bet he's
pulling it in from the stock intercooler
location. Not sure about
pulling air in from the wheel well - I seem to
recall that this is where
Porsche 911 intercoolers are mounted (wouldn't want
that caked with
mud!), and there may be some way to isolate an air intake
hose from the
elements while keeping it in an area of high air
pressure.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:31:04 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV questions
Okay, some final questions. Sorry for all
of the included text, I want
to make sure I have my facts
straight.
"Errin D. Humphrey" wrote:
>
> Jim Matthews
wrote:
> >
> > 2. Also, has anyone successfully eliminated the
HOOT sound commonly
> > experienced by those with FIPKs by replacing
the stock BOV with an
> > aftermarket unit?
>
> I'm GLAD
that you asked this! I recently took Hau's Blitz BOV off of
> my car
in order to give it to Chris. Several weeks went by without
>
boosting my car because my clutch has been fried. Now with my
>
clutch replaced, I immediately noticed this "hooting" noise, and I have
>
been bothered as to what it might be. The sound is
intermittent--as
> you say only at lower boost levels--and it makes the
noise whether or
> not I have the AVC-R valve installed (I just
reinstalled it the other day).
> I'm pretty sure that the sound wasn't
around when I had the Blitz on my
> car, but I can't be 100%
sure.
[ ... ]
> The stock BOV is not really a BOV,
per se. It is better to call it
> a "bypass valve" because that is a
more accurate description of what
> it does. The Blitz BOV that I
had on my car utilizes the stock bypass
> valve by being connected to it
in sequence. Like the stocker, it also
> reads post-TB pressure
(right before the surge tank). When I upgrade
> my BOV, I will not
go with the Blitz simply because I do not want to
> utilize the stock
bypass valve, even if there are some benefits to
> keeping some of the air
in the system. Blitz does seem the BOV of
> choice for Supras,
however. I will probably go with the HKS.
[ ...
]
> > P.S.- GTAlley's fix for the HOOT sound is to vent the stock
BOV to the
> > atmosphere and plug the connection to the
intake.
>
> As others have noted, this sounds like a bad
idea. The stocker was
> not designed to work as a BOV. It was
designed to be a bypass
> valve. I don't think it reads the
pre/post-TB pressure differential in
> the same way that an aftermarket
BOV does, but I could be wrong.
[ ... ]
> Roger is
right, the stocker leaks.
Okay, it sounds as if the Blitz eliminated
the sound in your case. But
I'm a little confused. Since the
annoying resonance has been attributed
to the stock BOV, how does a system
that utilizes the stock BOV
eliminate it? Is the stock BOV connected to
the Blitz instead of to the
intake? But if venting the stock BOV to the
atmosphere and plugging the
intake makes the engine stall and run poorly,
then how would this be any
different? Also, if the stock BOV leaks,
then isn't this a weak link in
the chain? Please advise!
Thanx.
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:17:54 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
> Okay, it sounds as if the Blitz eliminated the
sound in your case. But
> I'm a little confused. Since the
annoying resonance has been attributed
> to the stock BOV, how does a
system that utilizes the stock BOV
> eliminate it?
Well, it is
related to the FIPK and maybe other intake filters of course !
Replacing the
bypass valve with another BOV does usually remove the bypass to
the intake
and therefore elimiates any pressure back to the filter system that
cause the
HOOOT sound.
> Is the stock BOV connected to the Blitz instead of to
the intake?
The last time I saw this was a normal connection of the
bypass valve and an y in
the hose that comes down the y-pipe. At this y the
Blitz was connected to.
> But if venting the stock BOV to the
atmosphere and plugging the
> intake makes the engine stall and run
poorly, then how would this be any
> different?
The bypass valve
opens as pressure increases in the intake manifold. If boost is
cranked up
the valve still opens very early, too early for us and therefore
creating a
leak in the y-pipe (to the ambient). This causes the engine to stall
or
running poorly for a second as the valve quickly closes when boost goes
away
and therefore closes the leak then. Once my mechanic did not close the
BOV tube
clamp the thing popped of at 1 bars and caused the engine to die
quickly !
> Also, if the stock BOV leaks, then isn't this a weak
link in
> the chain? Please advise! Thanx.
No, the hole
is small enough not to cause a big leak. The only explanation I
have is that
the Blitz was probably set up to open earlier together with the
stock valve,
just enough that the sound went away. But then I don't know for
what the
stock valve is used for ??
Later, Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:31:07 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Diag Tool update, questions ->
This weekend I made a stress
test of the components to be sure the memory
storage is able to hold and
rewrite the information after many, many runs (two
or three 30 second
non-volatile storage space, 8 channels, 8 samples per
second).
Here my
questions:
How many 30 sec runs (test, track street, check, or whatever)
would you make per
week, month or year ?
I have to know due to the
specs of the serial memory devices I have to get.
Also, for O2 readings,
would you prefer the screen showing figures :
920mV O2 front
890mV 02
rear
or one graphic (only one O2 sensor at a time) :
920mV O2
Sensor
- ------¦--*---
The values can be updated three or four times
per second, enough for our eyes
but not as quick as on a Blitz controller
(microcontroller is a little slow)
The runs are stored in the memory and
can then be read later via the built-in
RS232 connector. They will be
overwritten at the next runs.
Thanks for your help,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:12:02 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EVC-VPC-GCC installation
I sold my radio and CD changer in order
to make some room for my HKS stuff
which was hanging off of the lower
dashboard. With about $10 worth of
material purchased at Home Depot and
3 hours work, here is what I came up
with:
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r030.jpg
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r031.jpg
-
-Bob
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 15:29:57 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
Hey Jim, Chris, Brad.....
Has
anyone considered cutting a couple of intake vents in the front air dam
and
channeling the air from these to the appropriate locations? A person
could maybe even
make it 4 small inlets with the air ducting then available
for cooling as well as for
breathing. Some reinforcing would be necessary as
the dam (at least on the Stealths) is
pretty flimsy.
On another note,
the gills on the side of our cars are totally aesthetic, but
vents
cut from the engine compartment and channeled to these locations
would make them more
than "purty," and like the rear facing hood extractors
(from Bozz), funnel hot gases out
of our tightly sealed compartments.(
Just an idea for someone with the equipment.) If
the hood tower
blisters and side gills could be made functional, I believe the
temperature
problem would be history. While I'm at it, does anyone know how we
can
instal a tail and wings so we can actually get these things off the
ground : )
Best
Darc
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:51:06 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
EVC-VPC-GCC installation
I did this as well, but I retained an Alipne
Head unit on top. I then
mounted an EVC 4, Apex AFC, and an EGT meter
in the lower DIN section. It
was fairly simple.
Matt
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
3000/Stealth Technical List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Sunday, January 03, 1999 6:12 PM
Subject: Team3S: EVC-VPC-GCC
installation
>I sold my radio and CD changer in order to make some
room for my HKS stuff
>which was hanging off of the lower dashboard.
With about $10 worth of
>material purchased at Home Depot and 3 hours
work, here is what I came up
>with:
>
>http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r030.jpg
>
>http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r031.jpg
>
>-Bob
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 19:45:52 -0500
From: Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
EVC-VPC-GCC installation
OK, It has to be asked....what is the red toggle
for?
Rocket boosters or your chute deployment for the green
beast?
>I sold my radio and CD changer in order to make some room
for my HKS stuff
>which was hanging off of the lower dashboard. With
about $10 worth of
>material purchased at Home Depot and 3 hours work,
here is what I came up
>with:
>
>http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r030.jpg
>
>http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r031.jpg
-
-shawn dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy hands
of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon TSI AWD 13.6 @
98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car (SSC
class)
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:25:59 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: EVC-VPC-GCC installation
The red button is the program
selector wired to the VPC EPROM. Off is
"street" and On is
"strip".
- -Bob
> OK, It has to be asked....what is the red
toggle for?
> Rocket boosters or your chute deployment for the green
beast?
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:32:51 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Ticking Noise in Dash
If I may add another suggestion to this
idea... I suggest changing the bolts to nylon or
plastic bolts if the noise
is really bad. Metal bolts will transmit almost as much noise
with rubber
washers as without.
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 3 Jan 99, at 1:02,
R.G. wrote:
> Yes, same at mine in cold Swiss. I think it is a good
idea to isolate the
> solenoid holder plate from the firewall with rubber
parts or so. I thought
> someone did this before.
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
Humpty Dumpty was
pushed...
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------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:39:24 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Bone Heads.. and Parts cost question
Hi Everyone, (Happy New Year while
I'm at it).
It seems that someone just had to end my 1998 with a bang (or
a thump/crunch as the case
may be). This Twit backed into me on New Year's
Eve and I'm wondering if any of you would
know the price to replace the
plastic passenger side door trim on a 1991 Stealth TT. I
also have a medium
sized dent in the door and I am not sure if the door needs to be
replaced or
not, so if anyone of you know the price of a complete door replacement I
would be very appreciative.
Thanks,
Bill
91 TT "Old
Red"
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 19:47:35 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Bone Heads.. and Parts cost question
Hi Bill;
Are you
talking about the lower plastic portion with the "Twin Turbo" on it (AGG), or
the
upper thin piece next to the window? If it's the lower, the Twin
Turbo lettering is a
separate add on and in itself is not cheap. It might be
worth letting your fingers do some
walking to wrecking yards for starters. I
remember a posting at "the squabbling group" some
time "last year"
where a wrecking yard indicated they had a 95 and a 92 they'd sell
complete
for $5 G or thereabouts, if my memory is accurate (and usually not).
Maybe check there if you
cann't find others. Going to the dealers for parts
is a financial maiming, so try the other
route first. I have been checking
wreckers here for the odd Stealth I hear about that gets
totaled, but
mysteriously they never end up at the wreckers...I suspect off world aliens
from
Alpha Centuri (sp) snatch them up!!
Good
luck
Darc
Bill Miller wrote:
> Hi Everyone, (Happy New
Year while I'm at it).
>
> It seems that someone just had to end my
1998 with a bang (or a thump/crunch as the case
> may be). This Twit
backed into me on New Year's Eve and I'm wondering if any of you would
>
know the price to replace the plastic passenger side door trim on a 1991 Stealth
TT. I
> also have a medium sized dent in the door and I am not sure if the
door needs to be
> replaced or not, so if anyone of you know the price of
a complete door replacement I
> would be very
appreciative.
>
> Thanks,
> Bill
> 91 TT "Old
Red"
> Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 03 Jan 1999 20:01:05 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: cool air intake idea
Chris:
Me? Mind? Naw
.... just remind me the next time we go out for a
booby-burger that you have
a tape recorder in yer pocket and a camcorder
set up in the corner (I want 5
copies to give away for gifts, btw). :-)
This isn't a new trick -
someone on the Starnet list suggested it last
year and I pulled the
weatherstripping to see if it would work on a hot
day. I tried it for
the first time at Woodburn this summer .... didn't
see any spectacular times,
but *did* happen to start crawling up the
backside of certain white VR4 just
before the finish line .... another
75' or so and I would've had his butt ...
;-)
One other thing I've had happen (by ACCIDENT), was not shutting the
hood
properly between runs, so that the front edge of the hood was
lifted
about 1-1/4" or so. Why the PIR track steward didn't see this
and wave
me off, I'll never know. I found the mistake when I pulled
back into
the line-up for another run. FWIW, this MISTAKE netted me my
personal
best time in the 1/4. I've wondered ever since then what gains
I might
see if I could rig a safety latch to keep the hood open that
amount
without fearing having it pop open fully along the track. It was
a hot
day, but the engine felt much stronger during that run.
<shrug> I have
all winter to work on it.
Rich
Emerald
Green 94 R/T
Chris Winkley
wrote:
<snip>
> One trick Rich LeRoy has used
(hope you don't mind me posting this Rich), is
> to remove the rubber seal
at the windshield end of the hood. While this is
> only 1/4" gap or so, it
lets some of that hot air out of the engine
> compartment. Seems like
this, along with some ingenious intake tricks, is a
> good
solution.
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 23:21:15 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV questions
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
> So,
I guess the question is, why then HKS (also sequential) over
> the
Blitz? Have you used the HKS also?? If so, and readily superior,
>
then this is the kind of comparative analysis that saves us all a
bunch
> of time and money.
I must admit that my decision to go
with the HKS Super Seq. BOV
instead of my old Blitz Super Sound BOV is
somewhat arbitrary. I
prefer the HKS because I simply would rather not
use the stock
bypass valve, even if its operation in sequence with the Blitz
might
have some benefits. It's kind of like deciding to add Leonard
Slatkin's
production of Mass in B-minor to your CD collection even
though
you know that the John Eliot Gardiner version will be closer
to
Bach's "intentions" (since Gardiner uses period instruments) and
more
"intimate" (relative to Slatkin), as have been his recordings of
St.
Matthew's Passion and Verdi's Requiem. Of course, the best
thing
is to have both in one's collection, but I digress. I doubt I'm
making
sense ...
To put it another way, the new HKS SSBOV is flashy,
gimmicky,
and somewhat pompous in style. Its sound is very unique and
draws
much attention to itself. It necessitates the elimination of the
stock
bypass valve which leaks at high boost. Form is a bit higher
than
funtion. The Blitz SSBOV is simple, straightforward, and utilizes the
old
ways (ie, the stock bypass valve). Function is high, and benefits
might
be had b/c of using the stock b.v., but form falls a bit behind the
HKS.
The whooshing sound of the Blitz is strong, yet subdued, and it
sounds
not unlike a whale exhaling through its blowhole--perfect for the
nature
enthusiast. The HKS, on the other hand, has more of a
mechanical
"chatter" to it--perfect if you want your car to sound
high-tech. The
GReddy sounds somewhere between a Star Wars laser blast
and a
chipmunk--perfect for ... uhhh ... I'll pass on this one.
Well I
hope this helps, and I welcome any corrections/comments. :)
-
--Errin "In touch with his histone H4 gene" Humphrey
Yellow 94
VR4
Seattle, wA
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 23:21:20 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV questions
Matthews wrote:
> Okay, it sounds as
if the Blitz eliminated the sound in your case. But
> I'm a little
confused. Since the annoying resonance has been attributed
> to the
stock BOV, how does a system that utilizes the stock BOV
> eliminate
it? Is the stock BOV connected to the Blitz instead of to the
>
intake? But if venting the stock BOV to the atmosphere and plugging
the
> intake makes the engine stall and run poorly, then how would this be
any
> different? Also, if the stock BOV leaks, then isn't this a
weak link in
> the chain? Please advise! Thanx.
Roger
wrote some good answers / speculation to your questions.
All I can add is the
following: I personally don't know what exactly
is causing the hooting
noise in your car and mine and possibly others'.
Your guess is as good as
mine. :) What I was trying to say in my
previous post was that
when I had the Blitz (which utilizes the stock
bypass valve (
a[incorrectly]ka BOV ) my exhaust was either very
very loud, or my clutch was
slipping like crazy at lower rpms, and
thus I can't say ~100%~ that it wasn't
making the noise. Still, I never
noticed it until just recently when I
removed the Blitz. I know that it
doesn't make sense that there wasn't
a hoot when I had the Blitz
(since it uses the stock b.v.), but I guess there
might be ~some~
crazy explanation out there IF indeed it wasn't making the
sound back
then.
Barry, if you're reading this, maybe you could tell
us if you ever
remember hearing this "hooting" sound before, and if it ever
made
that sound with your Blitz?
Jim, you and I are both using the
K&N, so that is a variable we
must eliminate when comparing to others'
experiences. In any case,
we will find out more when you get a chance
to throw Roger's HKS
on your car (or if you buy an aftermarket BOV). I
will pick up the
HKS one of these days and will let you know what
happens. In
answer to your query about the Blitz setup, a pipe extends
from the
hole in the Y-pipe. This pipe is actually a y-pipe which is
bolted to
the Blitz and hose-clamped to the hose which subsequently
connects
to the stock bypass valve. The b.v. then goes as usual back
into the
intake.
*I'm pretty sure I know how the Blitz worked.
If you have the spring
adjusted really tight (Barry has his all the way
tightened, and he says you
can order a stronger race spring) you will end up
using the stock bypass
valve to a much greater degree. Even when I had
the screw 1/3 of the
way out, I still never heard the Blitz actually blow
off. I really wan't
getting my money's worth. If you back out the
screw, you loosen the
spring (?), thus allowing the Blitz to blow off more
boost. I backed my
screw way out, and I think this is probably ideal in
most cases. If you
allow too much boost back into the intake, you might
cause a short but
potentially dangerous lean condition. It might not be
a big deal, but it
is better to have all variables accounted for and play it
safe. Thus, I
will get the HKS so that I can simply "blow it all
off." :) Ooh baby!
Roger, I've noted your problems adjusting
the HKS. I hope this
doesn't cause a hassle for me. I don't use
cruise control often, and
it is possible that HKS might have eliminated the
problem in their
newest available BOV's. You are using the newer
"round" BOV,
correct? Not the older purple BOV shaped like a
megaphone?
Later all!
- --Errin "Just one more week of break
please!" Humphrey
Yellow 94 VR4
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 04 Jan 1999 09:29:04 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
Hey Errin,
> Roger, I've noted your problems
adjusting the HKS. I hope this
> doesn't cause a hassle for
me. I don't use cruise control often, and
> it is possible that HKS
might have eliminated the problem in their
> newest available BOV's.
You are using the newer "round" BOV,
> correct? Not the older purple
BOV shaped like a megaphone?
I'm using the "old" Sequential BOV (not
Super SBOV), and it works good although
it's plastic and known to crack
around the connection. I never had any problems
with it mechanically and
sound is absolutely not annoying. It just takes time to
adjust it correctly
and I don't want to stop all 5 miles on the Autobahn and
readjust it. HKS
says to leave the bolt where it is company installed and this
worked good on
stock boost level....but you all know we are running a little
more
:)
Another good thing was that the BOV showed me that there was a problem
with my
car ! As oil was vented into the intake part the BOV blew off an
oil-steam. This
was very noticeable on the dyno and high speeds. Also the BOV
output was very
oily. Today, after the new pistons done, there's no more oil
in the intake (it
took a while until all went
away)
Regards,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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End
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