--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #62
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest
Friday, January 1 1999 Volume 01
: Number
062
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 20:22:30 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: BOV questions
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthews
[mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent:
Wednesday, December 30, 1998 8:35 AM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: BOV
questions
<snip>
3. If replacing the BOV will cure the HOOT sound,
has anyone been
successful with an aftermarket BOV that vents back to the
intake, like
the stock BOV does (and which is apparently the cause of
the
resonance)? I think some BOVs vent to both the intake and to
the
atmosphere depending on pressure, which sounds like a good idea.
I
think the A'PEXi BOV is one such unit but is difficult to mount on
an
S3.
Thanx!! -Jim
P.S.- GTAlley's fix for the HOOT sound is
to vent the stock BOV to the
atmosphere and plug the connection to the
intake. I asked Extreme
Motorsports to do this when I was back in the
states and they refused,
saying it is a bad idea. Any
comments?
==================================
Jim (and fellow
3SIers)...
Sorry to join late in the e-versation, but I have a couple
perspectives (and
a question).
First off, the HKS SBOV comes with a
plug for the intake on the y-pipe and
shows the stock BOV removed. This is
what I have installed on my VR4 and
removed the stock BOV. It's been working
fine (although my question is
related).
Second, the Blitz BOV that Hau
sold me was installed on Errin's VR4 with a T
that connected it back to the
y-pipe and had the stock BOV still installed.
It also seemed to work fine,
although Errin said he had to back the
adjusting screw almost all the way out
to get it to purge (because the
pressure wasn't being forced through the
BOV?). I talked to my favorite
mechanic (John Boline, of Gateway Automotive)
who said he can't imagine why
you would route the gases back into the y-pipe
as this will still slow the
turbos. Perhaps a part of the Blitz
design?
My question...a couple weeks ago, I described what I called "fuel
cut" as
the result of running 1.1bar with a full 3" exhaust. A number of you
offered
opinions about how to avoid this but when someone (I deleted the
e-mail)
described "stalling" related to his installation of his BOV, I
wondered if
there's a connection. Just to clarify, my "fuel cut" occurs
around 4500rpm
under WOT in 2nd and 3rd gear. It lasts for less than a second
and throws
you forward with quite a jolt. There seems to be no effect on
driveability
(other than the short term shut off). I believe what I read
about "stalling"
was a longer term problem of poor running. Any connections?
Any ideas?
BTW...I couldn't use the Blitz BOV because the piping and
bracket was
designed for use with the K&N intake (I have a HKS) so I
ended up using the
HKS SBOV. If anyone is interested in buying the Blitz, let
me know.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 21:08:09 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: oil survey
howdy folks...
One last chance (through the
weekend)...if you haven't sent in your details,
here's the
format:
=======================================
1. Vehicle:
2.
Current mileage:
2. Oil weight:
3. Oil brand:
4. Filter brand:
5. Additives:
6. Change frequency:
7. Observations:
========================================
I will complete my tally
next week and post the results.
Have a HAPPY NEW YEAR, one and all, three
hours and counting!!!
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 23:35:27 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Greddy exhaust
Frank:
Please be aware that the stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
mailing list is
NOT a venue for commercial sales advertisements. The
list is for
technical discussion. Please note our rules that you agreed
to when you
signed up. Even private party sales, while not prohibited,
are
discouraged on this list.
This is the second warning sent to this
mailing address for rules
infractions. We will permanently terminate
your subscription if a third
infraction occurs.
Rich LeRoy
Admin -
Team3S
Meyer wrote:
>
> We have only one Slightly
damaged, brand new Greddy VR4 exhaust system
> available for $500.
This system has one small dent in the muffler in
> a spot that will not be
visible when installed. Performance and
> durability will not be
affected. Call 301 824 3337 or email to order
> Frank
> www.acceleratedaccessories.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 1 Jan 1999 09:12:08 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: BOV questions; FPR question
Well when you run more boost you
need more fuel.. When You add a Fuel
Pressure Reg. you can push a little bit
more through the stock injectors.
But when you go to bigger injectors
and a bigger fuel pump you want that
extra pressure to help supply the
correct amount of fuel and at the right
pressure. The stock pressure is
about 45 psi... people have been know to
run up to 70-75 with bigger
injectors and big turbos. I think this should
be in the staged
upgrades... in the stage either before or during the fuel
pump and injector
upgrades.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cameron Brandon [SMTP:cbran@dsinw.com]
Sent: Thursday,
December 31, 1998 7:09 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: BOV questions; FPR question
OK, so it appears i don't need
to replace a stock BOV as part of the
staged upgrade process, but what about
a FPR? Gary Zimmerman had one as
part of the usual mods, and wondered why he
did it... Any ideas?
Cameron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 1 Jan 1999 09:21:27 -0500
From: Brian Danley <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: BOV questions
[Brian Danley] Well as for fuel cut ... How
cold is it outside. This is a
big factor. I used to get cut when
it got real cold. The air is more
dense when it's cold and the MAS
reads the air coming in as "more air". So
you will get fuel cut at the
same PSI because the MAS doesn't measure
boost/ PSI but air and how dense it
is.
PS as for the vent of the bov, in vents back into the intake..
not the
Y-pipe. But this still gives you hot air going into the intake
instead of
fresh air.
My question...a couple weeks ago,
I described what I called "fuel cut" as
the result of running 1.1bar with a
full 3" exhaust. A number of you
offered
opinions about how to avoid this
but when someone (I deleted the e-mail)
described "stalling" related to his
installation of his BOV, I wondered if
there's a connection. Just to clarify,
my "fuel cut" occurs around 4500rpm
under WOT in 2nd and 3rd gear. It lasts
for less than a second and throws
you forward with quite a jolt. There seems
to be no effect on driveability
(other than the short term shut off). I
believe what I read about
"stalling"
was a longer term problem of poor
running. Any connections? Any ideas?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 01 Jan 1999 11:28:05 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
oil survey
> =======================================
>
>
1. Vehicle: 1993 Stealth R/T NA
> 2. Current mileage:97, 200
> 2.
Oil weight:10W-30
> 3. Oil brand:Mobil-1
> 4. Filter brand:purolator
pure-one (but soon to be a stock mitsu)
> 5. Additives:None
> 6.
Change frequency:5000 miles
> 7. Observations:No knocking, very little
valve chatter or lifter noise, even with the miles.
>
>
========================================
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 1 Jan 1999 16:36:22 -0500 (EST)
From: JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil survey
=======================================
1.
Vehicle: 1992 Black Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 60,500
miles
2. Oil weight: 10W30
3. Oil brand: Mobil 1 Synthetic
4. Filter
brand: Fram (Orange)
5. Additives: Slick 50 (A long time ago)
6. Change
frequency: 3-4000 miles
7. Observations: Oil gets pretty dark
========================================
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep
is America's only real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 1 Jan 1999 16:38:27 -0500 (EST)
From: JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Greddy exhaust
BTW, that's Frank Meyer and Not Frank
"JEEPers" Chen who rich is referring
to. Just thought I want to clear
things up in case somebody mistaken it
for me.
On Thu, 31 Dec
1998, Rich wrote:
>>Frank:
>>
>>Please be aware
that the stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
mailing list is
>>NOT a venue for commercial sales
advertisements. The list is for
>>technical discussion.
Please note our rules that you agreed to when you
>>signed up.
Even private party sales, while not prohibited, are
>>discouraged on
this list.
>>
>>This is the second warning sent to this
mailing address for rules
>>infractions. We will permanently
terminate your subscription if a third
>>infraction
occurs.
>>
>>Rich LeRoy
>>Admin -
Team3S
>>
>>
>>Meyer wrote:
>>>
>>> We have only one Slightly damaged, brand new Greddy VR4 exhaust
system
>>> available for $500. This system has one small dent
in the muffler in
>>> a spot that will not be visible when
installed. Performance and
>>> durability will not be
affected. Call 301 824 3337 or email to order
>>>
Frank
>>> www.acceleratedaccessories.com
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep
is America's only real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 02 Jan 1999 14:13:37 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV questions
Lots of BOV stuff here:
Matthews
wrote:
> 1. Is the volume of a BOV due to a restriction in the air
flow, like a
> whistle? Since the idea behind a BOV is to let the
air blow off as
> easily as possible to keep the turbos spinning, wouldn't
a loud BOV
> therefore be undesirable? Or are we talking minimal
impact?
I have never heard of a BOV's volume/loudness being ~the~
important
factor in its operation. It is more of a by-product of its
design. Design
of the valve and spring itself seems more
important. Furthermore,
according to HKS, most BOV's can be designed to
efficiently vent
pressure at either high boost pressures or low boost
pressures, but not
both. Their Sequential design allows their BOV's to
do both, supposedly.
Lastly, I would surmise that in order to "let the
air blow off as easily as
possible to keep ..." a well-designed BOV should
vent the air as ~quickly~
as possible and it will thus mostly likely be
louder. This is only speculation
on my part.
> 2. Also, has
anyone successfully eliminated the HOOT sound commonly
> experienced by
those with FIPKs by replacing the stock BOV with an
> aftermarket
unit?
I'm GLAD that you asked this! I recently took Hau's Blitz BOV
off of
my car in order to give it to Chris. Several weeks went by
without
boosting my car because my clutch has been fried. Now with
my
clutch replaced, I immediately noticed this "hooting" noise, and I
have
been bothered as to what it might be. The sound is
intermittent--as
you say only at lower boost levels--and it makes the noise
whether or
not I have the AVC-R valve installed (I just reinstalled it the
other day).
I'm pretty sure that the sound wasn't around when I had the Blitz
on my
car, but I can't be 100% sure. Why? Wellll... because for
most of the
time that I had it, I was running either downpipe-only (VERY
rumbly)
and later dual straightpipes only w/ no cats/mufflers
(mind-NUMBingly
loud above 2500 rpm; like someone is running a chainsaw in
your car),
so needless to say, I couldn't quite hear/enjoy all the fun sounds
my car
was making. Getting dual mufflers and dual glasspacks gave me
my
hearing back, but by that time (3 months ago) my clutch was wasted
from
too much racing.
> 3. If replacing the BOV will cure the HOOT sound,
has anyone been
> successful with an aftermarket BOV that vents back to
the intake, like
> the stock BOV does (and which is apparently the cause
of the
> resonance)? I think some BOVs vent to both the intake and
to the
> atmosphere depending on pressure, which sounds like a good
idea. I
> think the A'PEXi BOV is one such unit but is difficult to
mount on an
> S3.
The stock BOV is not really a BOV, per se.
It is better to call it
a "bypass valve" because that is a more accurate
description of what
it does. The Blitz BOV that I had on my car
utilizes the stock bypass
valve by being connected to it in sequence.
Like the stocker, it also
reads post-TB pressure (right before the surge
tank). When I upgrade
my BOV, I will not go with the Blitz simply
because I do not want to
utilize the stock bypass valve, even if there are
some benefits to
keeping some of the air in the system. Blitz does seem
the BOV of
choice for Supras, however. I will probably go with the
HKS.
BTW, I have heard ~many~ bad things about the Apexi BOV
from
owner experiences on the Supra Mailing List. Most end up
ditching
it because once they install it, their boost levels drop
dramatically.
> P.S.- GTAlley's fix for the HOOT sound is to vent the
stock BOV to the
> atmosphere and plug the connection to the
intake.
As others have noted, this sounds like a bad idea. The
stocker was
not designed to work as a BOV. It was designed to be a
bypass
valve. I don't think it reads the pre/post-TB pressure
differential in
the same way that an aftermarket BOV does, but I could be
wrong.
***Another thing. On the way back from a trip, my friend
riding in the
passenger did indeed place the HOOTing sound as coming
directly
from his side of the engine bay. I had been wondering if the
turbos
were involved in the sound (as Mike M. suggests in his experience
that
replacing turbos ridded the sound), but my friend noted that it
was
definitely from the air intake/y-pipe area straight in front of him.
Well,
this makes sense doesn't it? Think of the sound you get blowing
across
that top of a bottle. So either the sound is coming from the
hole in
the Y-pipe (which is subsequently eliminated by using a metal
pipe
for an aftermarket BOV?) or the sound is coming from the reentry
into
the uncompressed intake side (which is subsequently eliminated by
not
using the stocker? but this doesn't apply with the Blitz? but I really
don't
know 100% that I wasn't hearing the sound before ... hmmmm).
Roger is
right, the stocker leaks. I think this explains the whistling noise
I
was hearing yesterday while boosting up to 1.2 bar on the freeway.
Of course,
it could be something else. Incidentally, I tried to get a clean,
black
80's Porsche NA Carrera 2 to race me on I-5 between Tacoma
and Seattle.
I got up next to him and took off. He disappeared fast, seem-
ingly not
wanting to race me. But then he was coming up fast! I mean
Turbo
fast! Well it turned out to be a modded black Eclipse GSX that
I've
seen around. I didn't want to race another Mits brother, and he
was
going much faster than I wanted to go on cop-happy New Years Eve,
so I
waved and let off. He slowed and waved. Friendly guy. Prolly
16G.
Jim, please let us know if installing Roger's HKS gets rid of the
HOOT.
If the problem doesn't go away, then I am happy to blame it on Y2K!
:)
Chris Winkley wrote:
>Second, the Blitz BOV that Hau sold me
was installed on Errin's VR4
>with a T that connected it back to the
y-pipe and had the stock BOV
>still installed. It also seemed to
work fine, although Errin said he had to
>back the adjusting screw almost
all the way out to get it to purge (because
>the pressure wasn't being
forced through the BOV?).
Actually, the screw was originally way in
because Hau had it set up at
the time for his 15G's. After a while I
became bothered by the fact that
it wasn't making any noise, so Barry
enlightened me to back that screw
out. I got carried away and backed it
WAY out without being concerned
about finding a good midway point. It
was ~plenty~ loud and I was
happy, so I left it that way. I simply
suspect that with the screw way in,
you are using more of the stock
bypass-valve, and with it way out you
are using more of the Blitz BOV, since
they are in sequence.
Brian Danley wrote:
>PS as for the vent
of the bov, in vents back into the intake.. not the
>Y-pipe.
But this still gives you hot air going into the intake instead of
>fresh
air.
True about the stock bypass valve. But I personally wouldn't
classify
the air as "hot." The air is pressurized: this is
good. The air is already
accounted for by the MAF: this is good (not so
good when some of it
is blown into the atmosphere). Lastly and most
importantly: the air is
intercooled: this is very good. The EGR,
on the other hand, is a
different story; "hot air" does apply, but I
digress.
Happy New Year everyone!
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sat, 02 Jan 1999 14:20:03 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blitz going out of business???
"R.G." wrote:
> I
just got a message from a Supra friend who forwarded me this message
:
>
> -----------------------------
> Subject: Re: [mkiv]
Blitz going out of business??? [snip]
I kept up with this thread on the
Supra list. Some guys did some
more research and found out that this
rumor is ~not~ true. Of
course, anything is possible, but recent
evidence seems to be to
the contrary. BTW, rumors like this have arisen
before with
RS Akimoto, for example.
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 01 Jan 1999 23:21:48 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
> that connected it back to the y-pipe and had
the stock BOV still installed.
> It also seemed to work fine, although
Errin said he had to back the
> adjusting screw almost all the way out to
get it to purge (because the
> pressure wasn't being forced through the
BOV?). I talked to my favorite
> mechanic (John Boline, of Gateway
Automotive) who said he can't imagine why
> you would route the gases back
into the y-pipe as this will still slow the
> turbos. Perhaps a part of
the Blitz design?
Brian is right, it does NOT connect to the y-pipe but
right behind the MAS,
therefore before the turbos.
That a car can be
aproved by the government the engine must represent a closed
system.
Therefore, crankcase ventilation ends in the intake, pressure will
be
released to the intake and even the stock boost solenoid releases some
boost
back to the intake.
> My question...a couple weeks ago, I
described what I called "fuel cut" as
> the result of running 1.1bar with
a full 3" exhaust.
The fuel cut (if it is) is not related to the BOV. It
could be that the BOV is
somewhat working bad. As an example, if boost
increases to the max fast and
comes back due to the controller limiting the
difference can cause the BOV to
open and therefore power will be lost
quickly. As boost drops the BOV closes and
boost is comming back quickly
again. Feels like fuel cut !
Check out the EGT and injector duty cycle
when you're running into fuel cut. I'm
sure the problem lies elsewhere than
at the BOV if you're having real fuel cut.
Hope this
helps,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 01 Jan 1999 23:26:30 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: plug gap revisited
> After all this I took her for a test
drive and was very disappointed. My car
> actually felt slower. It
accelerated smoother, but wouldn't launch right.
> Today I figured out
what was wrong. My grandparents shop is north of Denver,
> at about 6000
ft altitude. My parents house is about 1600 ft. She's running
> good
today.
As you disconnected your battery the ECU had to relearn. This
phase can cause
your car running better than ever or it can be close to
stalling !
I'm living at about 1500 ft and drove many times up to 6300 ft
in the alps. I
then was able to feel some small loss but not to mention a lot
:)
Cheers, Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 01 Jan 1999 17:45:54 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
BOV questions; FPR question
Brian Danley wrote: [snips]
> Well when
you run more boost you need more fuel.. When You add a Fuel
> Pressure
Reg. you can push a little bit more through the stock injectors.
^ This
is true ^
> when you go to bigger injectors/fuel pump you want
> extra pressure to help supply correct amount fuel and at right
>
pressure. The stock pressure is 45 psi. Some
> run 70-75 with bigger
injectors/big turbos. I think this should
> be in staged upgrades
before or during fuel pump/injector upgrades.
^ This is not really so IMO
^
The stock TT fuelpressure no boost is about 43psi. The
STOCK
fuelpressure regulator is boost compensated and nicely adds
extra
fuelpressure for each pound of boost. The computer is designed to
work
with this rate of increase to provide proper mix. If you are
putting in
bigger turbos you will need more fuel volume to support more
horsepower
produced. How you GET THAT VOLUME can be by either
1)larger injectors at SAME FUELPRESSURE, with computer signal
mods
(VPC/GCC, APEXi AFC, TRE MASC) to adjust to the larger
injectors...can
work transparently (like stock) with ability to go
faster.
2)same small injectors with more fuelpressure--but this will run rich
at
idle/cruise, sacrifice all for that topend fuel need
3) combinations of
injectors, screwing with fuel pressure, computer
progs, etc
The higher
the fuelpressure, the LESS a pump flows at that pressure. A
pump flows
more volume as pressures are lower. So, you may run into
fuel volume
problems, which will be reflected by inability to MAINTAIN
the extra-high
pressure you've dialed in at max power. This is one
reason to try NOT
to jack up fuelpressure. Another is that after about
90 psi injectors
can have problems with opening and closing properly.
Another is it heats up
the fuel and pump more, and takes more power to
run the pump.
I think
the stock FPR works fine, and do not see a reason (given the
aftermarket
systems available) to change the stock FPR...UNLESS one has
specific
fine-tuning or fuel delivery problems NOT addressable
otherwise. The
aftermarket FPR's frequently add WAY MORE pressure per
pound of boost than
the stock FPR, which can lead you to tune well on
bottomend but pig rich as
boost goes up. Of course VPC/GCC/AFC etc can
compensate for this
screwing around, but...why spend the money for an
FPR--you just end up
jumping around trying to cater to its
idiosyncrasies (relative to
stocker).
IF you can say "I am certainly too lean AND have no other good
way to
address that problem" then by all means, get an aftermarket FPR and
turn
up the pressure some.
If you can't say "I am certainly too
lean AND have no other good way to
address that problem" then spend your
money on something worthwhile,
IMO. BTW, I have an aftermarket FPR,
which I put on my car when I was
maxxing out my 550 injectors and running
over 1800 degree EGT's. Of
course, the EGT were up due to timing retard
not necessarily leanout but
I wasn't sure of that then...since, I turned the
aftermarket one back
down to stock pressure, and only didn't remove it
because it had my FP
guage mounted to it and I was lazy
:)
> OK, so it appears i don't need to replace a stock
BOV as part of the
> staged upgrade process, but what about a FPR? Gary
Zimmerman had one as
> part of the usual mods, and wondered why he did
it... Any ideas?
This aftermarket FPR deal is really craaazy. It is
NOT needed as part
of "usual mods" FOR OUR CARS, and we don't need one to get
into the
10's. Beyond THAT, who knows...
As far as the stock BOV,
that is fine if 16psi is all you want. They
start leaking boost between
15 and 18psi...pffffffft! Changing BOV is
something I WOULD consider a
step in the order of sensible mods.
Jack Tertadian
Jack
Tertadian
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 01 Jan 1999 20:44:45 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S:
Plugs
Hi Team;
A quick pair of questions on plugs.
The
manual quotes the NGK number for TT's as PER6J-11. Does anyone know
if this
is the copper or the platinum tip?
I pulled my plugs and found the number
PFR6J....is the F desigination a
hotter plug? And, it does not have any-11
behing it as noted in the
manual . Any ideas why?
I know Bob has
indicated in the past that the copper tips are great and
recommends them over
the pricey platinums. Can you go into this one
again for me/us Bob...as a
refresher?
Best
Darc
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web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
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