--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #61
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest       Thursday, December 31 1998       Volume 01 : Number 061




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:28:43 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Blitz going out of business???

I just got a message from a Supra friend who forwarded me this message :

- -----------------------------
Subject: Re: [mkiv] Blitz going out of business???

John R:

Unfortunately this MAY be true....I spoke to Reese at Rod Millen to confirm
the previous notice, and Reese said that Blitz had filed for Chapter 11 in
Japan but had gotten themselves bailed out by another investor......(Read
they are still NOT out of hot water yet).  Reese also said that they
(Rod Millen) have not had any of their orders filled since AUGUST of this this
year.......sorry, but looks like Blitz may be getting Blitzed.....

Ray
- ----------------------------

Well, I heard that Blitz is going out of the wheel business but not more. It
would be bad if Blitz would become lunch for HKS or Greddy :(

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:51:27 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV questions

Bill, no offending  but I think your wrong :

> What seems to happen is that when you are running the engine at a normal RPM
> (2000-3000) and you press the > clutch (and brake of course) to stop, the BOV
> will open allowing the excess pressure to bleed off, the only problem is that
> the computer still thinks that there is a bunch of pressure there and either
> cuts the fuel too much or puts in too much fuel.

No, absolutely not, because the computer "knows" that the throttle is closed and
NEVER cuts the fuel NOR does it add more fuel in this rpm area. The car acts
like all other cars when closing the throttle, with or without turbo. The
difference is that the MAP is over ambient and not a vacuum.

Even more around 2000-3000, boost will be eaten up more quickly as the BOV has
to respond to.

> I "adjusted" my BOV as GT Alley suggested to you... (my own idea BTW) and it
> makes a "cool" WHOOSH sound when upshifting, but it scares the crap out of
> you when you slow down and try and turn a corner (after leaving the clutch in
> and your foot off the gas pedal) and the engine stalls... makes for
> interesting steering if you're not ready for it.

I agree with NOT doing this. The problem is, that you should have a real
adjustable BOV. Also the stock valve leaks (true !) und always releases some
boost out the ellbow. It is activated by the pressure in the BOV line and
therefore opens linear to the boost rise in the manifold. Releasing this
pressure to the ambient means creating a leak in the intake path ! An
aftermarket BOV acts on the pressure difference (pressure reducement) in the
manifold and "should" open when boost drops quickly.

> I didn't notice any performace increase after doing this. I would definately
> suggest that you DON'T do this unless you have some other modifications that
> may cure the stall problem. (Old Red is bone stock)

I hope you put this mod back to stock as it really does not work properly. The
stall problem means that you have a leak for a short time caused by the stock
valve not properly connected ! No, you'll never see any performance gain, but
your turbos can spool up better with it's help. I felt somewhat less lag and was
able to increase the 1/4 mile time a little due to this (with 13Gs)

Jim, whenver you're comming down again, we can swap the HKS SBOV out of mine as
it is only a 10 minutes job :)

// Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 19:30:39 -0500
From: Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Harmonic Damper Purchase!

At 10:45 AM 12/30/98 -0600, you wrote:
>RE:  HARMONIC DAMPENER ORDER--SFI CERTIFIED
>I've contacted Dave Buschur about having an SFI-certified (NHRA legal)
>harmonic balancer made for our 3000 VR4/Stealth TT's.  The NHRA requires
>one for any car below 11 second quartermile.  Though sometimes the
>question never arises (fine with me) it is best/safest to follow the
>rule, and avoids somebody's BS complaint/getting kicked off track.
>
>Though there may not be MANY cars thinking of going below 11.0, there
>must be at least 7-10 of them, and we might as well get a group together
>if possible.  Note this IS a REAL HARMONIC DAMPENER, not just a solid
>hub insult-your-crank pulley without dampening qualities; and it WILL BE
>SFI CERTIFIED.  
>
>Cost should be AROUND $325-350 if similar to the DSM balancer Dave
>already makes.  (I make no money off of this, I am just pushing Dave to
>do it :)
>
>Send me Email if interested, have one other already!
>
>Jack Tertadian


FYI, I have one of Dave's harmonic balancer/underdrive pulleys for my talon
buildup project and it is not on the car yet if you need any info on it at
all or pics or anything else. He is having them made by Fisher/Terry. The
only thing he did is scribble their address and phone number off the box.
Very nice unit.

Just trying to be helpful.

Give me a yell if you need any info on it.


- -shawn dewey

'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in the happy hands of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon TSI AWD 13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race Car (SSC class)
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:39:29 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV questions

Jim;

Let me know how  things go when you try Roger's swap/lend for the weekend, and if you
think it is the way you will go. I am running a stock BOV like you, with the same mods,
and would like to keep abreast of any trail blazing you may do in this regard. Thus far
I have seen no need for one, but that may change.

BTW, best , to you in the new year.

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:54:21 -0500
From: "Williamson, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Williamson@JCI.Com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Adjustment Question

I just completed installation of a new stock clutch on my VR4. I also had
the flywheel turned. I checked the dimensions on the new clutch to make
sure that I had the right one, and followed the instructions in the shop
manual and did not disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe. After I got
everything back together, the clutch pedal is now way out of adjustment, as
I have to put my foot to the floorboard to disengage the clutch. Is this
normal?  The car has 102,000 miles on it, and as far as I know, the clutch
was never previously adjusted. Did I screw something up or is it normal to
have to make such a large adjustment after a new clutch is installed?

Thanks for your help.

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:22:04 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000GT Specs needed (all gens)

Roger...

I didn't see anyone else send this (at least not publicly to the list) so...

F5M33 W5MG1 W6MG1
5spd M/T 5spd M/T 6spd M/T

Gear Ratio:

1st 3.090 3.071 3.266
2nd 1.833 1.739 1.904
3rd 1.217 1.103 1.241
4th 0.888 0.823 0.918
5th 0.741 0.659 0.733
6th ------- ------- 0.589
Reverse 3.166 3.076 3.153

Final reduction ration

Transaxle 4.153 3.972 3.869
Transfer ------- 0.814 0.958

Looking forward...Chris

"Friends don't let friends ride with me"

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Monday, December 28, 1998 9:11 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT Specs needed (all gens)


I'm about to finish the development of the 3000GT/Stealth for "Need for
Speed
III". Unfortunately, I don't have the gear specs handy (poor man without a
manual) and therefore ask if someone could send me :

- - gear ratio (5 speed and 6 speed)
- - final gear (5 speed and 6 speed)

Thanks in adavance
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:31:52 -0500
From: "Williamson, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Williamson@JCI.Com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Adjustment Question

I just completed installation of a new stock clutch on my VR4 (clutch disk,
pressure plate, and release bearing). I also had the flywheel turned. I
checked the dimensions on the new clutch to make sure that I had the right
one, and followed the instructions in the shop manual and did not
disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe. After I got everything back together,
the clutch pedal is now way out of adjustment, as I have to put my foot to
the floorboard to disengage the clutch. Is this normal?  The car has
102,000 miles on it, and as far as I know, the clutch was never previously
adjusted. Did I screw something up or is it normal to have to make such a
large adjustment after a new clutch is installed? Is it possible that I
somehow got air in the hydraulic system?

Please forward any suggestions you may have directly to me, as I need to
solve this problem fast.

Thanks for your help.

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:44:50 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV questions

Mike, Bill, and Roger, thanx so much for your helpful responses.
Whether or not Bill's explanation of the cause of his stalling problem
is correct, the fact remains that modifying the stock BOV plumbing
somehow caused the problem and I will steer clear of it.  Bill, it did
seem like a good strategy for solving this insidious problem, and I'm
sorry it didn't work out as you'd (we'd) hoped.

Regarding the stock BOV leaking, I recall Meyer bringing this up on the
noisy list, but understand it is only an issue above 1 bar of boost.  As
I have the AVC-R set up to run at 1.0 bar with minimal overboost, I
wouldn't think this would have much impact.  In fact, I guess it serves
as an additional measure of safety against overboosting!  On the other
hand, is this one reason why boost falls off at high RPMs?  Anyway, I'll
keep
it in mind if I ever get around to making serious mods and running
higher boost pressure levels.

In a personal Email to me, Mike Mahaffey indicated that in his
experience (and experience is good!!), replacement of the stock BOV
helped with the HOOTing
resonance but did not eliminate it completely.  However, replacing the
turbos did eliminate the sound.  This I don't completely understand,
since the resonance is produced at moderate boost pressures, say 7 psi /
.5 bar, where neither a 9B nor a 1xG are stressed.  Must be different
flow characteristics, but then I would think exhaust would also play a
role.  Roger, as you are running 13Gs and the Borla, perhaps this is
why you never experienced this resonance.

I'll certainly take Roger up on his generous offer to try out his BOV
and let the list know what happens.  Hey Roger & Mike Chapleski, when is
AWD dyno day in Switzerland?  ;-)

-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 12:06:11 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV questions

Regarding the stock BOV leaking, I recall Meyer bringing this up on the
> noisy list, but understand it is only an issue above 1 bar of boost.  As
> I have the AVC-R set up to run at 1.0 bar with minimal overboost, I
> wouldn't think this would have much impact.

True, in fact, the stock BOV has a small hole of about 6mm diameter that
releases some air even when it is closed.

> However, replacing the turbos did eliminate the sound.  This I don't
> completely understand, since the resonance is produced at moderate boost
> pressures, say 7 psi / .5 bar, where neither a 9B nor a 1xG are stressed.

This makes sense ! The FIPK was my first mod (after the bleeder valve) and I
never ever heard the WHOOOT until I drove your car. But the EU cars do have the
13G and therefore a different flow characteristic at this rpm/air-flow.
Replacing the BOV just helped a little in lag and whoosh (pfft, don't need it).

> I'll certainly take Roger up on his generous offer to try out his BOV
> and let the list know what happens.  Hey Roger & Mike Chapleski, when is
> AWD dyno day in Switzerland?  ;-)

Whenever you are ready :) As I'm changing the job soon I don't know when I'm
around in Feb or March as I have to go to California for training sometimes.

Cheers,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 21:55:40 -0600
From: Todd Schmalzried <tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com>
Subject: Team3S: plug gap revisited

Hello all,

Thanks for all the input regarding plug gap. I ended up going with .034
since I won't be raising the boost soon. When I do that I will probably take
it down to .029 or so.

It ended up taking me about 4 hours to change my plugs. In my own defense I
did a _few_ other things at the same time. The plugs ended up being the
easiest part of the job. While I had it apart I did a compression test: 105,
105, 110, 113, 115, 120. Not bad for a motor with 185,000 miles (stock is
supposed to be 115). I also changed the wires to Accels. They're pre made,
and fit pretty well. The 3 for the front bank could be a little shorter (1/2
- - 1 inch), but better long than short. I picked them over the Magnacores
because the specs (advertising) make them look better. The Cores have 1200
ohm/foot resistance, while the Accels have 150 ohm/foot. They were also
reinforced better, which makes me think they'll last longer. Frank at
Accelerated Accessories tracked them down for me, and got them shipped out
to me in time. (Thanks a bunch!!!)

I also changed the fuel filter, which was about half of the time. 3 of the 4
bolts had rusted so the 12 mm wrench wouldn't fit, many curse words. After
finally getting the tray out, the hoses didn't want to come loose, more
curse words and a little lost skin. After finally getting the hoses off, 1
of the bolts holding the filter to the bracket broke off, ran out of curse
words. I took the bracket out of the car, and used a cutting torch to remove
the old nut/bolt. So anyway I put all of this in because I was laughing a
couple months ago when someone said they couldn't change their fuel filter.
I sure wasn't laughing Monday.

The rest of the time was spent changing the tranny fluid. I used Mobile 1
75-90. Does anyone have any opinions on this oil? It seems to have helped
with the notchiness (is that a word?).

After all this I took her for a test drive and was very disappointed. My car
actually felt slower. It accelerated smoother, but wouldn't launch right.
Today I figured out what was wrong. My grandparents shop is north of Denver,
at about 6000 ft altitude. My parents house is about 1600 ft. She's running
good today.

I guess I'll quit boring all of you now.
Later

- --
Todd Schmalzried                    tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
       
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about it.  O-


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:22:11 -0600
From: Todd Schmalzried <tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheel mod, kind of

I have a free mod for some of you guys and gals out there. If you have
aluminum wheels, and they're curb rashed (previous owner of course) there's
hope.

I have a 91 RT/TT with painted wheels which were really chewed up. I think
the previous owner parked by feel. If you're like me you would rather spend
the money on go fasters. Anyway what you end up with is a painted wheel with
a polished ring around the edge.

1. remove wheel(s) and lay on the ground face up
2. make a cardboard template. It needs to fit on the inside of the wheel
lip. Be sure it doesn't stick up, and also that it fits tightly.
3. find your sander of choice. I used a disc sander with 100 grit paper.
4. this sounds bad, but sand down the rim. take the paint off all the way
around, and sand down the rough spots. be careful of the tire.
5. get a small file and smooth rough parts the sander didn't get.
6. hit it with the sander again to make it all look the same
7. this ones hard, and optional. If you have access to a bead breaker, break
the bead on the front side of the wheel (if you only do 1 side you won't
have to rebalance them). Sand off the paint on the lip between the face, and
the rubber. This can be done with the tire still inflated, but be careful of
the tire.
8. put tire back on and enjoy.

I guess this could be done with any aluminum wheel. I don't know if it would
work with chromed rims.

Good luck to the brave. I hope yours turn out as well as mine did. Don't try
it if you're not prepared to live with a mistake.

- --
Todd Schmalzried                    tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
       
- -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about it.  O-


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 12:29:10 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap revisited

Todd, if I recall the Mobil One 75-90 is a GL-5. This is not advisable on the
5 or 6 speed manual tranny. There is a TSB about it, can cause serious
(expensive) damage.
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 12/31/98 10:18:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com writes:

<< Subj: Team3S: plug gap revisited
 Date: 12/31/98 10:18:07 AM Eastern Standard Time
 From: tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com (Todd Schmalzried)
 Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com (stealth 3s)
 
 Hello all,
 
 Thanks for all the input regarding plug gap. I ended up going with .034
 since I won't be raising the boost soon. When I do that I will probably take
 it down to .029 or so.
 
 It ended up taking me about 4 hours to change my plugs. In my own defense I
 did a _few_ other things at the same time. The plugs ended up being the
 easiest part of the job. While I had it apart I did a compression test: 105,
 105, 110, 113, 115, 120. Not bad for a motor with 185,000 miles (stock is
 supposed to be 115). I also changed the wires to Accels. They're pre made,
 and fit pretty well. The 3 for the front bank could be a little shorter (1/2
 - 1 inch), but better long than short. I picked them over the Magnacores
 because the specs (advertising) make them look better. The Cores have 1200
 ohm/foot resistance, while the Accels have 150 ohm/foot. They were also
 reinforced better, which makes me think they'll last longer. Frank at
 Accelerated Accessories tracked them down for me, and got them shipped out
 to me in time. (Thanks a bunch!!!)
 
 I also changed the fuel filter, which was about half of the time. 3 of the 4
 bolts had rusted so the 12 mm wrench wouldn't fit, many curse words. After
 finally getting the tray out, the hoses didn't want to come loose, more
 curse words and a little lost skin. After finally getting the hoses off, 1
 of the bolts holding the filter to the bracket broke off, ran out of curse
 words. I took the bracket out of the car, and used a cutting torch to remove
 the old nut/bolt. So anyway I put all of this in because I was laughing a
 couple months ago when someone said they couldn't change their fuel filter.
 I sure wasn't laughing Monday.
 
 The rest of the time was spent changing the tranny fluid. I used Mobile 1
 75-90. Does anyone have any opinions on this oil? It seems to have helped
 with the notchiness (is that a word?).
 
 After all this I took her for a test drive and was very disappointed. My car
 actually felt slower. It accelerated smoother, but wouldn't launch right.
 Today I figured out what was wrong. My grandparents shop is north of Denver,
 at about 6000 ft altitude. My parents house is about 1600 ft. She's running
 good today.
 
 I guess I'll quit boring all of you now.
 Later
 
 --
 Todd Schmalzried                    tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
        
 -You "put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
 -Who gets the change? Think about it.  O-
  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:52:01 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S: Greddy exhaust

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_032A_01BE34CD.1FA80E40
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

We have only one Slightly damaged, brand new Greddy VR4 exhaust system =
available for $500.  This system has one small dent in the muffler in a =
spot that will not be visible when installed.  Performance and =
durability will not be affected. Call 301 824 3337 or email to order
Frank
www.acceleratedaccessories.com=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_032A_01BE34CD.1FA80E40
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D2>We have =
only one Slightly=20
damaged, brand new Greddy VR4 exhaust system available for $500.&nbsp; =
This=20
system has one small dent in the muffler in a spot that will not be =
visible when=20
installed.&nbsp; Performance and durability will not be affected. Call =
301 824=20
3337 or email to order</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman" =
size=3D2>Frank</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>www.acceleratedaccessories.com&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_032A_01BE34CD.1FA80E40--

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 21:14:15 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: NA and Turbo  Street/Race (kinda Long)

Brian,
Thanx for passing this article along - it is very informative and
clarifies many issues.  Sure seems to me that engines like ours should
be able to produce 500 or even 600 reliable and streetable horsepower
without much trouble, even more for the track.  I am watching the
trailblazers in this group with interest and hope to one day be
confident enough to join them.  But by that time I'll be back in the
states kicking myself for not doing it NOW when I'm driving on roads
with no speed limit!  :-|
Anyway, thanx again.

-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 16:35:32 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV questions (Bill's wrong again... not news!!)

OOPS... I agree with you Roger. I forgot to mention that my explaination was pure
speculation on my part.

My attempted modification was due to a discussion on Hot air being recirculated into the
intake when the BOV opened. I guessed that venting to atmosphere would be a good idea 
(cooler air = more power). I disconnected the BOV from the Intake (Plugging the hole of
course) leaving the high pressure side connected and then tried it out. The only thing
that happened was I gained a rather cool noise (whoosh) when the BOV opened and the car
would stall now and then.

When I un-did my modification, everything went back to normal. Ed Fein suggested the
problem may be the computer acting on information that it assumed was correct (amount of
air in the intake), hence my explaination.

Sorry for any confusion.

Bill
91 TT "Old Red"

On 31 Dec 98, at 0:51, R.G. wrote:

> Bill, no offending  but I think your wrong :
> <SNIP>
>
> // Roger
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
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Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 16:08:46 -0800
From: "Cameron Brandon" <cbran@dsinw.com>
Subject: Team3S: BOV questions; FPR question

  OK, so it appears i don't need to replace a stock BOV as part of the
staged upgrade process, but what about a FPR? Gary Zimmerman had one as
part of the usual mods, and wondered why he did it... Any ideas?

Cameron
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