--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #61
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Thursday,
December 31 1998 Volume 01 : Number
061
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:28:43 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Blitz going out of business???
I just got a message from a Supra
friend who forwarded me this message :
-
-----------------------------
Subject: Re: [mkiv] Blitz going out of
business???
John R:
Unfortunately this MAY be true....I spoke to
Reese at Rod Millen to confirm
the previous notice, and Reese said that Blitz
had filed for Chapter 11 in
Japan but had gotten themselves bailed out by
another investor......(Read
they are still NOT out of hot water yet).
Reese also said that they
(Rod Millen) have not had any of their orders
filled since AUGUST of this this
year.......sorry, but looks like Blitz may
be getting Blitzed.....
Ray
-
----------------------------
Well, I heard that Blitz is going out of the
wheel business but not more. It
would be bad if Blitz would become lunch for
HKS or Greddy :(
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ
Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Visit my
homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:51:27 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
Bill, no offending but I think your wrong
:
> What seems to happen is that when you are running the engine at a
normal RPM
> (2000-3000) and you press the > clutch (and brake of
course) to stop, the BOV
> will open allowing the excess pressure to bleed
off, the only problem is that
> the computer still thinks that there is a
bunch of pressure there and either
> cuts the fuel too much or puts in too
much fuel.
No, absolutely not, because the computer "knows" that the
throttle is closed and
NEVER cuts the fuel NOR does it add more fuel in this
rpm area. The car acts
like all other cars when closing the throttle, with or
without turbo. The
difference is that the MAP is over ambient and not a
vacuum.
Even more around 2000-3000, boost will be eaten up more quickly
as the BOV has
to respond to.
> I "adjusted" my BOV as GT Alley
suggested to you... (my own idea BTW) and it
> makes a "cool" WHOOSH sound
when upshifting, but it scares the crap out of
> you when you slow down
and try and turn a corner (after leaving the clutch in
> and your foot off
the gas pedal) and the engine stalls... makes for
> interesting steering
if you're not ready for it.
I agree with NOT doing this. The problem is,
that you should have a real
adjustable BOV. Also the stock valve leaks (true
!) und always releases some
boost out the ellbow. It is activated by the
pressure in the BOV line and
therefore opens linear to the boost rise in the
manifold. Releasing this
pressure to the ambient means creating a leak in the
intake path ! An
aftermarket BOV acts on the pressure difference (pressure
reducement) in the
manifold and "should" open when boost drops
quickly.
> I didn't notice any performace increase after doing this. I
would definately
> suggest that you DON'T do this unless you have some
other modifications that
> may cure the stall problem. (Old Red is bone
stock)
I hope you put this mod back to stock as it really does not work
properly. The
stall problem means that you have a leak for a short time
caused by the stock
valve not properly connected ! No, you'll never see any
performance gain, but
your turbos can spool up better with it's help. I felt
somewhat less lag and was
able to increase the 1/4 mile time a little due to
this (with 13Gs)
Jim, whenver you're comming down again, we can swap the
HKS SBOV out of mine as
it is only a 10 minutes job :)
//
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 19:30:39 -0500
From: Shawn Dewey <sdewey@dmv.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Harmonic Damper Purchase!
At 10:45 AM 12/30/98 -0600, you
wrote:
>RE: HARMONIC DAMPENER ORDER--SFI CERTIFIED
>I've
contacted Dave Buschur about having an SFI-certified (NHRA
legal)
>harmonic balancer made for our 3000 VR4/Stealth TT's. The
NHRA requires
>one for any car below 11 second quartermile. Though
sometimes the
>question never arises (fine with me) it is best/safest to
follow the
>rule, and avoids somebody's BS complaint/getting kicked off
track.
>
>Though there may not be MANY cars thinking of going below
11.0, there
>must be at least 7-10 of them, and we might as well get a
group together
>if possible. Note this IS a REAL HARMONIC DAMPENER,
not just a solid
>hub insult-your-crank pulley without dampening
qualities; and it WILL BE
>SFI CERTIFIED.
>
>Cost
should be AROUND $325-350 if similar to the DSM balancer Dave
>already
makes. (I make no money off of this, I am just pushing Dave to
>do
it :)
>
>Send me Email if interested, have one other
already!
>
>Jack Tertadian
FYI, I have one of Dave's
harmonic balancer/underdrive pulleys for my talon
buildup project and it is
not on the car yet if you need any info on it at
all or pics or anything
else. He is having them made by Fisher/Terry. The
only thing he did is
scribble their address and phone number off the box.
Very nice unit.
Just trying to be helpful.
Give me a yell if you need any info on
it.
- -shawn dewey
'91 Stealth R/T nonturbo 15.426 @ 90.68 (in
the happy hands of a new owner!)
'93 3000GT VR4 12.98 @ 107 mph
'91 Talon
TSI AWD 13.6 @ 98.8 (the commuter car, yeah right! :)
'95 Talon ESi SCCA Race
Car (SSC class)
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:39:29 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
Jim;
Let me know how things go when
you try Roger's swap/lend for the weekend, and if you
think it is the way you
will go. I am running a stock BOV like you, with the same mods,
and would
like to keep abreast of any trail blazing you may do in this regard. Thus
far
I have seen no need for one, but that may change.
BTW, best , to
you in the new year.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:54:21 -0500
From: "Williamson, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Williamson@JCI.Com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Adjustment Question
I just completed installation of a new
stock clutch on my VR4. I also had
the flywheel turned. I checked the
dimensions on the new clutch to make
sure that I had the right one, and
followed the instructions in the shop
manual and did not disconnect the
clutch hydraulic pipe. After I got
everything back together, the clutch pedal
is now way out of adjustment, as
I have to put my foot to the floorboard to
disengage the clutch. Is this
normal? The car has 102,000 miles on it,
and as far as I know, the clutch
was never previously adjusted. Did I screw
something up or is it normal to
have to make such a large adjustment after a
new clutch is installed?
Thanks for your help.
Jeff
Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:22:04 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: 3000GT Specs needed (all gens)
Roger...
I didn't see
anyone else send this (at least not publicly to the list) so...
F5M33
W5MG1 W6MG1
5spd M/T 5spd M/T 6spd M/T
Gear Ratio:
1st 3.090
3.071 3.266
2nd 1.833 1.739 1.904
3rd 1.217 1.103 1.241
4th 0.888 0.823
0.918
5th 0.741 0.659 0.733
6th ------- ------- 0.589
Reverse 3.166
3.076 3.153
Final reduction ration
Transaxle 4.153 3.972
3.869
Transfer ------- 0.814 0.958
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4
- -----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Monday, December 28, 1998 9:11 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT Specs needed (all gens)
I'm about to finish the
development of the 3000GT/Stealth for "Need for
Speed
III". Unfortunately,
I don't have the gear specs handy (poor man without a
manual) and therefore
ask if someone could send me :
- - gear ratio (5 speed and 6 speed)
-
- final gear (5 speed and 6 speed)
Thanks in adavance
Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:31:52 -0500
From: "Williamson, Jeff A" <Jeff.A.Williamson@JCI.Com>
Subject:
Team3S: Clutch Adjustment Question
I just completed installation of a new
stock clutch on my VR4 (clutch disk,
pressure plate, and release bearing). I
also had the flywheel turned. I
checked the dimensions on the new clutch to
make sure that I had the right
one, and followed the instructions in the shop
manual and did not
disconnect the clutch hydraulic pipe. After I got
everything back together,
the clutch pedal is now way out of adjustment, as I
have to put my foot to
the floorboard to disengage the clutch. Is this
normal? The car has
102,000 miles on it, and as far as I know, the
clutch was never previously
adjusted. Did I screw something up or is it
normal to have to make such a
large adjustment after a new clutch is
installed? Is it possible that I
somehow got air in the hydraulic
system?
Please forward any suggestions you may have directly to me, as I
need to
solve this problem fast.
Thanks for your help.
Jeff
Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:44:50 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: BOV questions
Mike, Bill, and Roger, thanx so much for your
helpful responses.
Whether or not Bill's explanation of the cause of his
stalling problem
is correct, the fact remains that modifying the stock BOV
plumbing
somehow caused the problem and I will steer clear of it. Bill,
it did
seem like a good strategy for solving this insidious problem, and
I'm
sorry it didn't work out as you'd (we'd) hoped.
Regarding the
stock BOV leaking, I recall Meyer bringing this up on the
noisy list, but
understand it is only an issue above 1 bar of boost. As
I have the
AVC-R set up to run at 1.0 bar with minimal overboost, I
wouldn't think this
would have much impact. In fact, I guess it serves
as an additional
measure of safety against overboosting! On the other
hand, is this one
reason why boost falls off at high RPMs? Anyway, I'll
keep
it in
mind if I ever get around to making serious mods and running
higher boost
pressure levels.
In a personal Email to me, Mike Mahaffey indicated that
in his
experience (and experience is good!!), replacement of the stock
BOV
helped with the HOOTing
resonance but did not eliminate it
completely. However, replacing the
turbos did eliminate the
sound. This I don't completely understand,
since the resonance is
produced at moderate boost pressures, say 7 psi /
.5 bar, where neither a 9B
nor a 1xG are stressed. Must be different
flow characteristics, but
then I would think exhaust would also play a
role. Roger, as you are
running 13Gs and the Borla, perhaps this is
why you never experienced this
resonance.
I'll certainly take Roger up on his generous offer to try out
his BOV
and let the list know what happens. Hey Roger & Mike
Chapleski, when is
AWD dyno day in Switzerland? ;-)
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 12:06:11 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
Regarding the stock BOV leaking, I recall Meyer
bringing this up on the
> noisy list, but understand it is only an issue
above 1 bar of boost. As
> I have the AVC-R set up to run at 1.0 bar
with minimal overboost, I
> wouldn't think this would have much
impact.
True, in fact, the stock BOV has a small hole of about 6mm
diameter that
releases some air even when it is closed.
> However,
replacing the turbos did eliminate the sound. This I don't
>
completely understand, since the resonance is produced at moderate boost
>
pressures, say 7 psi / .5 bar, where neither a 9B nor a 1xG are
stressed.
This makes sense ! The FIPK was my first mod (after the bleeder
valve) and I
never ever heard the WHOOOT until I drove your car. But the EU
cars do have the
13G and therefore a different flow characteristic at this
rpm/air-flow.
Replacing the BOV just helped a little in lag and whoosh (pfft,
don't need it).
> I'll certainly take Roger up on his generous offer
to try out his BOV
> and let the list know what happens. Hey Roger
& Mike Chapleski, when is
> AWD dyno day in Switzerland?
;-)
Whenever you are ready :) As I'm changing the job soon I don't know
when I'm
around in Feb or March as I have to go to California for training
sometimes.
Cheers,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 21:55:40 -0600
From: Todd Schmalzried <tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: plug gap revisited
Hello all,
Thanks for all the input
regarding plug gap. I ended up going with .034
since I won't be raising the
boost soon. When I do that I will probably take
it down to .029 or so.
It ended up taking me about 4 hours to change my plugs. In my own
defense I
did a _few_ other things at the same time. The plugs ended up being
the
easiest part of the job. While I had it apart I did a compression test:
105,
105, 110, 113, 115, 120. Not bad for a motor with 185,000 miles (stock
is
supposed to be 115). I also changed the wires to Accels. They're pre
made,
and fit pretty well. The 3 for the front bank could be a little shorter
(1/2
- - 1 inch), but better long than short. I picked them over the
Magnacores
because the specs (advertising) make them look better. The Cores
have 1200
ohm/foot resistance, while the Accels have 150 ohm/foot. They were
also
reinforced better, which makes me think they'll last longer. Frank
at
Accelerated Accessories tracked them down for me, and got them shipped
out
to me in time. (Thanks a bunch!!!)
I also changed the fuel
filter, which was about half of the time. 3 of the 4
bolts had rusted so the
12 mm wrench wouldn't fit, many curse words. After
finally getting the tray
out, the hoses didn't want to come loose, more
curse words and a little lost
skin. After finally getting the hoses off, 1
of the bolts holding the filter
to the bracket broke off, ran out of curse
words. I took the bracket out of
the car, and used a cutting torch to remove
the old nut/bolt. So anyway I put
all of this in because I was laughing a
couple months ago when someone said
they couldn't change their fuel filter.
I sure wasn't laughing
Monday.
The rest of the time was spent changing the tranny fluid. I used
Mobile 1
75-90. Does anyone have any opinions on this oil? It seems to have
helped
with the notchiness (is that a word?).
After all this I took
her for a test drive and was very disappointed. My car
actually felt slower.
It accelerated smoother, but wouldn't launch right.
Today I figured out what
was wrong. My grandparents shop is north of Denver,
at about 6000 ft
altitude. My parents house is about 1600 ft. She's running
good today.
I guess I'll quit boring all of you now.
Later
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
- -You "put your 2 cents in"
but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about
it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:22:11 -0600
From: Todd Schmalzried <tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Wheel mod, kind of
I have a free mod for some of you guys and
gals out there. If you have
aluminum wheels, and they're curb rashed
(previous owner of course) there's
hope.
I have a 91 RT/TT with
painted wheels which were really chewed up. I think
the previous owner parked
by feel. If you're like me you would rather spend
the money on go fasters.
Anyway what you end up with is a painted wheel with
a polished ring around
the edge.
1. remove wheel(s) and lay on the ground face up
2. make a
cardboard template. It needs to fit on the inside of the wheel
lip. Be sure
it doesn't stick up, and also that it fits tightly.
3. find your sander of
choice. I used a disc sander with 100 grit paper.
4. this sounds bad, but
sand down the rim. take the paint off all the way
around, and sand down the
rough spots. be careful of the tire.
5. get a small file and smooth rough
parts the sander didn't get.
6. hit it with the sander again to make it all
look the same
7. this ones hard, and optional. If you have access to a bead
breaker, break
the bead on the front side of the wheel (if you only do 1 side
you won't
have to rebalance them). Sand off the paint on the lip between the
face, and
the rubber. This can be done with the tire still inflated, but be
careful of
the tire.
8. put tire back on and enjoy.
I guess this
could be done with any aluminum wheel. I don't know if it would
work with
chromed rims.
Good luck to the brave. I hope yours turn out as well as
mine did. Don't try
it if you're not prepared to live with a mistake.
- --
Todd
Schmalzried
tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
- -You "put your 2 cents in"
but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
- -Who gets the change? Think about
it. O-
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 12:29:10 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
revisited
Todd, if I recall the Mobil One 75-90 is a GL-5. This is not
advisable on the
5 or 6 speed manual tranny. There is a TSB about it, can
cause serious
(expensive) damage.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated
12/31/98 10:18:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
writes:
<< Subj: Team3S: plug gap revisited
Date: 12/31/98
10:18:07 AM Eastern Standard Time
From: tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com (Todd
Schmalzried)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
(stealth 3s)
Hello all,
Thanks for all the
input regarding plug gap. I ended up going with .034
since I won't be
raising the boost soon. When I do that I will probably take
it down to
.029 or so.
It ended up taking me about 4 hours to change my
plugs. In my own defense I
did a _few_ other things at the same time.
The plugs ended up being the
easiest part of the job. While I had it
apart I did a compression test: 105,
105, 110, 113, 115, 120. Not bad
for a motor with 185,000 miles (stock is
supposed to be 115). I also
changed the wires to Accels. They're pre made,
and fit pretty well. The
3 for the front bank could be a little shorter (1/2
- 1 inch), but
better long than short. I picked them over the Magnacores
because the
specs (advertising) make them look better. The Cores have 1200
ohm/foot
resistance, while the Accels have 150 ohm/foot. They were
also
reinforced better, which makes me think they'll last longer. Frank
at
Accelerated Accessories tracked them down for me, and got them
shipped out
to me in time. (Thanks a bunch!!!)
I
also changed the fuel filter, which was about half of the time. 3 of the
4
bolts had rusted so the 12 mm wrench wouldn't fit, many curse words.
After
finally getting the tray out, the hoses didn't want to come
loose, more
curse words and a little lost skin. After finally getting
the hoses off, 1
of the bolts holding the filter to the bracket broke
off, ran out of curse
words. I took the bracket out of the car, and
used a cutting torch to remove
the old nut/bolt. So anyway I put all of
this in because I was laughing a
couple months ago when someone said
they couldn't change their fuel filter.
I sure wasn't laughing
Monday.
The rest of the time was spent changing the tranny
fluid. I used Mobile 1
75-90. Does anyone have any opinions on this
oil? It seems to have helped
with the notchiness (is that a word?).
After all this I took her for a test drive and was very
disappointed. My car
actually felt slower. It accelerated smoother, but
wouldn't launch right.
Today I figured out what was wrong. My
grandparents shop is north of Denver,
at about 6000 ft altitude. My
parents house is about 1600 ft. She's running
good today.
I guess I'll quit boring all of you
now.
Later
--
Todd
Schmalzried
tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
-You "put your 2
cents in" but only get "a penny for your thoughts"
-Who gets the
change? Think about it. O-
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:52:01 -0500
From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Greddy exhaust
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_032A_01BE34CD.1FA80E40
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
We have only one Slightly damaged, brand new Greddy VR4
exhaust system =
available for $500. This system has one small dent in
the muffler in a =
spot that will not be visible when installed.
Performance and =
durability will not be affected. Call 301 824 3337 or email
to order
Frank
www.acceleratedaccessories.com=20
-
------=_NextPart_000_032A_01BE34CD.1FA80E40
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New
Roman" size=3D2>We have =
only one Slightly=20
damaged, brand new
Greddy VR4 exhaust system available for $500. =
This=20
system
has one small dent in the muffler in a spot that will not be =
visible
when=20
installed. Performance and durability will not be affected.
Call =
301 824=20
3337 or email to
order</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
face=3D"Times New Roman"
=
size=3D2>Frank</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
size=3D2>www.acceleratedaccessories.com </FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_032A_01BE34CD.1FA80E40--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 21:14:15 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: NA and Turbo Street/Race (kinda Long)
Brian,
Thanx
for passing this article along - it is very informative and
clarifies many
issues. Sure seems to me that engines like ours should
be able to
produce 500 or even 600 reliable and streetable horsepower
without much
trouble, even more for the track. I am watching the
trailblazers in
this group with interest and hope to one day be
confident enough to join
them. But by that time I'll be back in the
states kicking myself for
not doing it NOW when I'm driving on roads
with no speed limit!
:-|
Anyway, thanx again.
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 16:35:32 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions (Bill's wrong again... not news!!)
OOPS... I agree
with you Roger. I forgot to mention that my explaination was pure
speculation on my part.
My attempted modification was due to a
discussion on Hot air being recirculated into the
intake when the BOV
opened. I guessed that venting to atmosphere would be a good idea
(cooler air = more power). I disconnected the BOV from the Intake (Plugging
the hole of
course) leaving the high pressure side connected and then tried
it out. The only thing
that happened was I gained a rather cool noise
(whoosh) when the BOV opened and the car
would stall now and then.
When I un-did my modification, everything went back to normal. Ed Fein
suggested the
problem may be the computer acting on information that it
assumed was correct (amount of
air in the intake), hence my
explaination.
Sorry for any confusion.
Bill
91 TT "Old
Red"
On 31 Dec 98, at 0:51, R.G. wrote:
> Bill, no
offending but I think your wrong :
> <SNIP>
>
>
// Roger
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 31 Dec 1998 16:08:46 -0800
From: "Cameron Brandon" <cbran@dsinw.com>
Subject: Team3S: BOV
questions; FPR question
OK, so it appears i don't need to replace
a stock BOV as part of the
staged upgrade process, but what about a FPR? Gary
Zimmerman had one as
part of the usual mods, and wondered why he did it...
Any ideas?
Cameron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #61
***************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm