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From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #60
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Team3S Digest Wednesday,
December 30 1998 Volume 01 : Number
060
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:58:27 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: G-Force ecu on a non-turbo
Bob Fontana wrote:
> If
I could put my 2 cents in here... It seems to me (and I'm sure I'll
be
> corrected by 500 people if I'm wrong) that, excluding NOS, the
biggest
> single increase in horsepower to the normally aspirated 3.0
liter DOHC motor
> would be achieved by a professional porting and
polishing job. [snip]
> Wouldn't that net between 50 to 75
horsies?
For reference sake, a guy I just met got his '96 Prelude into
the high
13's. Adding intake and exhaust added a small amount of
horsepower.
But when he had his heads worked over to Stage VI by DPR,
he
dyno'd a gain of 50 horses to the wheels. The Stage VI head
goes
for less than $1000, I think. Remember that a Prelude's stock
2.2L
4 banger makes 200hp, so its power per displacement ratio is
already
higher than a 3000GT SL's. In other words, I see no reason why
a
working over the heads of an SL's 3.0L DOHC V6 wouldn't gain at
least
that amount of power.
- --Errin Humphrey
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info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:39:19 -0500
From: Michael Booker <mrbook@gate.net>
Subject: Team3S:
Automatic tranny...R.I.P. :-(((((
I think it's dead. As i was heading
home from getting my Enkei RPO1's
put on, my car started shifting funny, then
it "lost" 4th gear, as it
downshifted into 3rd and wouldn't go back to 4th.
Then, the same thing
happened to 3rd, at which point i pulled over and let it
sit for a few
minutes. when i started it back up and put it in gear, nothing
happened,
it sat motionless. When i checked the fluid, about 2 hours later,
it was
at the minimum hot line, but it smelled kinda burnt. I have heard
that
this equivilant (sp?) to reading a toe tag. It's dead. Any
similar
experiences? What kinda cost is associated with a rebuilt, as
a
worst-case scenario? You know, i was really looking forward to my
master
card being paid off, so i could get some go-faster goodies, like
my
custom ram-air system, but it looks like i might need it to make the
car
run. :-((((((((((((((((((
Matt
#311
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 00:18:37 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Automatic tranny...R.I.P. :-(((((
Michael:
Before you take
the car to AAMCO or other money-siphoning outfit, check
to make sure the
vacuum line(s) aren't
kinked/broken/loose/disconnected. Something
similar happened to me
years ago in my old Ford wagon, and I tracked it down
to a disconnected
vacuum line. It sounds awfully sudden for the tranny
to be toast - they
usually give some indication of dying for a while before
the main event.
Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
Michael Booker
wrote:
>
> I think it's dead. As i was heading home from getting my
Enkei RPO1's
> put on, my car started shifting funny, then it "lost" 4th
gear, as it
> downshifted into 3rd and wouldn't go back to 4th. Then, the
same thing
> happened to 3rd, at which point i pulled over and let it sit
for a few
> minutes. when i started it back up and put it in gear, nothing
happened,
> it sat motionless.
<snip>
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:00:40 +1100
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: Plug Gap
R.G. wrote:
> Regapping the plugs (maybe
new ones) - the first thing to do when increasing
> boost !
Actually
when I increased the boost on my car (BTW the car has done
85000km) the old
plugs were worn done to 0.059!!! Dead set.
Andrew
Australia
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:41:58 -0500
From: "rtetetet" <rtetetet@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Automatic tranny...R.I.P. :-(((((
>Before you take the car
to AAMCO or other money-siphoning outfit, check
they usually give some
indication of dying for a while before the main
event.
I've had
two go south with no warning, Buick Dual Path(POS) & a Ford E4OD.
The
fluid level should not be an issue, but you may have lost a pump or
valving.
The burnt fluid is not a good sign becuse taht means you got it hot
and that
usually says All new clutches and some internal pieces. I would
still check
hoses and connections but you are in for a rebuild to some
extent. You might
check with some of the trusted mechanics around you and
see who they would
take it to if you don't go the dealer route. I woul check
a dealer or two as
they may have the inside track on the problem. I wish you
good luck on this
because I hate auto trany repair people, most are
crooks.
Ron
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page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:18:36 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Automatic tranny...R.I.P. :-(((((
> Michael Booker
wrote:
> >
> > I think it's dead. As i was heading home from
getting my Enkei RPO1's
> > put on, my car started shifting funny, then
it "lost" 4th gear, as it
> > downshifted into 3rd and wouldn't go back
to 4th. Then, the same thing
> > happened to 3rd, at which point i
pulled over and let it sit for a few
> > minutes. when i started it
back up and put it in gear, nothing happened,
> > it sat
motionless.
Rich wrote:
>
> Michael:
>
> Before
you take the car to AAMCO or other money-siphoning outfit, check
> to make
sure the vacuum line(s) aren't
> kinked/broken/loose/disconnected. [ ...
]
I had a similar experience (also with an older Ford, a highly
modified
'76 Bronco 4x4 with a beefed-up C-4 tranny) when the vacuum hose
fell
off of the vacuum modulator. Without understanding what I was
doing, I
was able to get home by DRAINING fluid from the transmission (!),
which
is a bad thing. But I must say that the thing at least had ONE
gear and
wouldn't just sit motionless...
Good luck! -Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:35:27 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: BOV questions
Happy New Year! Three quick questions about
blow-off valves:
1. Is the volume of a BOV due to a restriction in the
air flow, like a
whistle? Since the idea behind a BOV is to let the air
blow off as
easily as possible to keep the turbos spinning, wouldn't a loud
BOV
therefore be undesirable? Or are we talking minimal
impact?
2. Also, has anyone successfully eliminated the HOOT sound
commonly
experienced by those with FIPKs by replacing the stock BOV with
an
aftermarket unit? I've been living with the noise for a year and a
half
now and am finally sufficiently annoyed that I am considering
replacing
the stock BOV, but only if I can be certain that it will do the
trick.
3. If replacing the BOV will cure the HOOT sound, has anyone
been
successful with an aftermarket BOV that vents back to the intake,
like
the stock BOV does (and which is apparently the cause of
the
resonance)? I think some BOVs vent to both the intake and to
the
atmosphere depending on pressure, which sounds like a good idea.
I
think the A'PEXi BOV is one such unit but is difficult to mount on
an
S3.
Thanx!! -Jim
P.S.- GTAlley's fix for the HOOT sound is
to vent the stock BOV to the
atmosphere and plug the connection to the
intake. I asked Extreme
Motorsports to do this when I was back in the
states and they refused,
saying it is a bad idea. Any
comments?
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:45:24 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Harmonic Damper Purchase!
RE: HARMONIC DAMPENER ORDER--SFI
CERTIFIED
I've contacted Dave Buschur about having an SFI-certified (NHRA
legal)
harmonic balancer made for our 3000 VR4/Stealth TT's. The NHRA
requires
one for any car below 11 second quartermile. Though sometimes
the
question never arises (fine with me) it is best/safest to follow
the
rule, and avoids somebody's BS complaint/getting kicked off
track.
Though there may not be MANY cars thinking of going below 11.0,
there
must be at least 7-10 of them, and we might as well get a group
together
if possible. Note this IS a REAL HARMONIC DAMPENER, not just a
solid
hub insult-your-crank pulley without dampening qualities; and it WILL
BE
SFI CERTIFIED.
Cost should be AROUND $325-350 if
similar to the DSM balancer Dave
already makes. (I make no money off of
this, I am just pushing Dave to
do it :)
Send me Email if interested,
have one other already!
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:17:50 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: ABS light
- ----------- Marc Jaffe wrote: ----------
2)what
does the controller box under the the heater vents on the passenger
side
control?
I have a squeaky fan and when you take off the plastic to get to it
there is
a box
attached?..Hopefully the squeak is gone..this is just a
question of what is
it?
-
----------------------------------------
According to Eric Bowden, that's
the Air Conditioning controller module.
Make sure you reconnect it or your AC
won't work.
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:43:42 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Plug Gap
Andrew Clark wrote:
> Actually when I
increased the boost on my car (BTW the car has done
> 85000km) the old
plugs were worn done to 0.059!!! Dead set.
Is that "dead set" a dead set
of plugs Andrew, or a euphemism for "fair dinkum". "No
shit Sherlock", or any
number of other good qualifiers? : ) : )
This singular thread on plug gap
for turbos is likely the most overlooked but important
thing if one is
experiencing a miss, drive train shudder at certain rpm's (likely a
miss), or
otherwise poor performance, which does not seem to have a known cause. I
know
it was a puzzle for me... until I decided to check the simple things
first. How one
manages to overlook the simple and search for the complex, is
often an embarrassment.
Best wishes for the New Year to all you on the
list
Darcy
92 TT Stealth, 3Si #145.....Victoria,
B.C.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Wed, 30 Dec 1998 18:23:30 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BOV questions
Finally ... something I can
answer!
GTAlley's answer will cause your car to stall intermittently.
What seems to happen is
that when you are running the engine at a normal RPM
(2000-3000) and you press the clutch
(and brake of course) to stop, the BOV
will open allowing the excess pressure to bleed
off, the only problem is
that the computer still thinks that there is a bunch of pressure
there and
either cuts the fuel too much or puts in too much fuel. This causes a stall
(usually) or sometimes just a short time of running badly.
I
"adjusted" my BOV as GT Alley suggested to you... (my own idea BTW) and it makes
a
"cool" WHOOSH sound when upshifting, but it scares the crap out of you
when you slow down
and try and turn a corner (after leaving the clutch in
and your foot off the gas pedal)
and the engine stalls... makes for
interesting steering if you're not ready for it.
I didn't notice any
performace increase after doing this. I would definately suggest that
you
DON'T do this unless you have some other modifications that may cure the stall
problem. (Old Red is bone stock)
Bill
91 TT "Old Red"
On 30
Dec 98, at 17:35, Matthews wrote:
> Happy New Year! Three quick
questions about blow-off
valves:
>
<SNIP>
>
> Thanx!! -Jim
>
> P.S.- GTAlley's fix
for the HOOT sound is to vent the stock BOV to the
> atmosphere and plug
the connection to the intake. I asked Extreme
> Motorsports to do
this when I was back in the states and they refused,
> saying it is a bad
idea. Any comments?
>
> --
> Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #60
***************************
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