--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #54
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Monday, December 21 1998        Volume 01 : Number 054




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 08:47:09 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey

1. Vehicle:             1991 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage:   85,000
3. Oil weight:         10W-30
4. Oil brand: Mobil 1
5. Filter brand: OEM
6. Additives: None.  Previous owner said he used slick 50, so I
performed an engine flush at my first oil change.
7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
8. Observations: Light ticking at idle when first started.  Goes away as
RPM increase.  More prone to ticking after 2000 miles on oil.

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 11:53:08 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey

hese are the specs

1. Vehicle:             1994 Dodge Stealth tt
2. Current mileage:  10,000 (after new shortblock)  
3. Oil weight:          10w-30
4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
5. Filter brand:        Fram
6. Additives:           None
7. Change frequency:    2,000miles
8. Observations: No oil loss. 60,000 miles on first shortblock, never any oil
loss

TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 121.58
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 10:43:40 -0700
From: "Michael O'Krancy" <mokrancy@renaissance.ca>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #53

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Hello Everybody=20

I have recently acquired a new vehicle.  I picked up a stock =
91StealthTT
which is a far cry from my last vehicle which was an S-10 so things =
have
become slightly more complex to put it lightly. =20

I have been on this list for a couple of months and I think that I =
would
like to put out a couple of questions of my own for the experts to =
field.
The car is great however, I am having a problem with smooth =
acceleration.
Whenever I put down a significant amount of power around second or =
third
gear there seems to be a loss in power.  Also, hard acceleration off of =
the
line yields a slight shudder in the rear of the vehicle.  I would like =
this
acceleration curve to be smooth from start to finish however I am =
really not
sure what the problem may be. =20

I took the car to the dealer to have them look at it and this is their
theory.  The head covers are leaking a small amount of oil and it is =
pooling
around the spark plug where they meet the wires.  Also mentioned, the =
wires
are oil soaked.  What's happening according to them is that, as the =
power
increases, the spark frequency at each plug will increase.  (obviously)
However, what is happening is that as this increase occurs it =
eventually
becomes too much and shorts the spark right to the block because the =
pooled
oil in contact with the plug.  Solution, fix the oil leak, new plug =
wires
and give it a try.  I personally found this whole explanation a little, =
"out
there" and the dealer is not willing to say 100% if this will correct =
my
problem. =20

Either way, it's a job that has to be done however what I would like to =
know
from the group is whether or not anyone has seen a problem similar to =
this
or has other theories on the matter.  Do you agree with the dealer's
diagnosis or does the source of this problem lie elsewhere.  I think =
that it
may be beneficial to mention that I live in Calgary, Alberta (That's in
Canada boys) and the dealer doesn't see a lot of Stealth's especially =
twin
turbos coming through the doors.  Also as you may or may not know the =
3000GT
is not available in Canada so the last time this dealer sold the =
platform
was the end of 95 which in my books does not place them on the expert =
and
experienced list. =20

Any feedback or theories would be greatly appreciated.

mike


> ----------
> From: Team3S
> Digest[SMTP:owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com]
> Sent: 21 December, 1998 1:25 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #53
>=20
>=20
> Team3S Digest        Monday, December 21 1998        Volume 01 : =
Number
> 053
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> =
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:48:12 +0000
> From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump question
>=20
> I'm still in the GT &%=E7 research thing and nearly fall over the =
fuel pump
> I got
> from Brian. It is a Nippon Denso pump with the description 5T11 and =
the
> number
> 195130-1020.
>=20
> Can someone please verify what kind of pump this is and how much it =
flows
> ?
>=20
> Thanks in advance,
> Roger
>=20
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:35:02 +0000
> From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Team3S: Little oil survey on our cars / oil level
>=20
> Since I got the car in Feb94 (93 model) I ran only synthetics in the =
car.
> At the
> beginning 10W-40, then 5W-40 and now 5W-40 mixed with 10W-60. Also in =
the
> beginning I used some snake oil like Slick 50 and Ceramica but =
stopped
> after
> discussions as well as it was just too expensive.
>=20
> As my car got the slight rebuild, I checked many parts out :
>=20
> The oil lines where in perfect conditions and there was no sign of =
any
> cristalized oil visible.
>=20
> The cylinder walls looked very good and the mechanic was surprised =
even
> after 3
> of the pistons broke. Very, very low wear for 65k.
>=20
> Same ot the heads. There was no need to grind them as measurment =
showed an
> absolutely plain surface.
>=20
> The cams also show less wear then expected and after cleaning the =
intake
> and the
> valves also these parts showed lesser wear than expected.
>=20
> I run the bleeder valve with 0.75bars of boost peak (around 350hp =
dynoed)
> since
> June 1994 and therefore the car was used over the specs it was built =
for
> some
> years. This does not lead me into the conclusion that snake oils =
helped in
> any
> way but it says that they don't hurt as well. The broken pistons =
where due
> to my
> ignorance and have nothing to to with this.
>=20
> Back to the oil. I'm sure using very good quality oil and changing it
> every
> 5000-7500km is the key to the good condition the parts are in. =
Measuring
> the oil
> temp showed up to 106=B0C on the dyno. Normal use showed around =
98=B0C and
> less but
> I expect higher temps when driving for a long time on the german =
autobahn
> (gulp). The cars came with Castrol 10W-40 Synthetics and I always =
stayed
> with it
> as I never had any problem. As the synths came down in price  I went =
to
> 5W-40
> due to the many cold-starts I had during the winter times. Also null
> problemos.
> About 1 year ago I went to the Mobil 0W-40 for the best cold start
> protection
> but then I often ran into getting the oil-level light (just above the =
ASC
> ON
> light) on the autobahn. Especially on speeds over 150mph as the =
streets
> went up
> the hill the light came on. I immediatly lifted the throttle and the =
light
> went
> off. Checking the warm oil level showed about 1/2 to 3/4 of the range
> between
> the marks then. I went back to Castrol 5W-40 and never got this =
problem
> again
> ... until my compression problem started to begin worse.
>=20
> Before the rebuild I ran the car over it's limit and killed three =
pistons
> and at
> least 4 rings. Some pressure went down to the crankcase due to this =
and
> caused
> the oil cap to leak as well as the oil was pressed into the intake =
through
> the
> crankcase ventilation. This then caused alot oil deposits in the
> intercollers
> and it's piping. Also the idle stepper motor got totally clogged as =
well
> as the
> intake valves due to the damn oil. Now after the rebuild there's =
still
> some oil
> around but, luckily, there's no oil steam comming out the BOV anymore
> (uff,
> turbos are ok). As this happend the oil level light came on very =
often at
> speeds
> over 130mph so I decided not to go higher then until the problem got
> fixed.
>=20
> BTW, during the rebuild we also exchanged the oil level switch to be =
sure
> everything is alright. As I went to Germany last week I speeded up to
> around
> 150mph as the damn light came on again. I checked the oil level the =
night
> before
> and the level was on 3/4 of the range so I expected no problem there. =
As I
> drove
> home on friday the light came on at lower speeds until it appeared at
> 140km/h
> (crusing speed here). I went into the next gas station and got a =
bottle
> just to
> be sure I have enough oil in the pan. I let the car idle for 2 =
minutes and
> then
> checked the oil level. Nothing, nada, niente, empty ! I've checked =
what I
> could
> see through the oil cap hole and saw enough (damn hot) oil around. I
> filled the
> litre in and got close to the 3/4 mark on the stick ! No light the =
rest of
> the
> way.
>=20
> Yesterday, I made some miles and also speeded up a hill. Tataaaa, the
> light came
> on again. I went home and filled up with 10W-60 Racing oil from =
Castrol.
> This
> because the mechanic at Digit Power told me earlier that this is the =
fluid
> they
> highly recommend for our high temp cars... espcially when the power =
is
> cranked
> up. For winter use it's good to have a good cold start oil and that's =
why
> I
> decided to "mix" the stuff. I went for a ride, heated the engine up =
as
> good as
> possible and made the hill tests. No problem since then :)
>=20
> Well, the question arises if the oil-level switch also does anything =
else
> than
> measure the oil level. I don't think it is related to the oil =
temperature
> but
> who knows. Also I doubt that it is related to the oil pressure as the
> meter
> always showed a higher but good pressure on the autobahn. For me, my
> experiences
> are that oils with 0W-40 are somewhat too thin for our cars when =
getting
> into
> hard high temp conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for our =
cars
> but
> not so great for winter conditions.
>=20
> Finally, a wide range seems to be better, say 5W-50 or so (I think =
Mobil 1
> has
> one) but I'll use the 10W-60 in the summer and mix it with the 5W-40 =
in
> the
> winter as Castrol does not have a high range fluid. For me it =
currently
> works
> good and it seems that the new stuff in the engine lowered the =
ticking
> sound as
> well.
>=20
> Regards to all,
> Roger
>=20
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:05:01 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel pump question
>=20
> Roger,
>=20
> I suggest contacting Road Race Engineering (RRE) at
> mailto:sales@roadraceengineering.com specifying the part number and =
color
> of
> the cap on the pump.  Sometimes they are slow at responding so bug =
them a
> little.
>=20
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
> Barry
>=20
>=20
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > I'm still in the GT &%=E7 research thing and nearly fall over the
> > fuel pump I got
> > from Brian. It is a Nippon Denso pump with the description 5T11
> > and the number
> > 195130-1020.
> >
> > Can someone please verify what kind of pump this is and how much
> > it flows ?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> > Roger
> >
> > -----------------------
> > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:08:44 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Oil survey (was: Little oil survey on our cars)
>=20
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
> Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 9:35 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Little oil survey on our cars / oil level
>=20
> <snip>
> Regards to all,
> Roger
> =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> Roger...
>=20
> The subject line of your e-mail indicates a survey, which is a good =
idea.
> I'll collect the data and republish to the group after two weeks. =
Anyone
> interested in participating is welcome. Here's the questions I =
propose,
> just
> replace my data with yours:
>=20
> 1. Vehicle: 1995 VR4
> 2. Oil weight: 5-50w
> 3. Oil brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand: OEM
> 5. Additives: None
> 6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or six months
> 7. Observations: I changed from fossil oil to synthetic when
> I purchased the car 18 months ago. Aside from what I believe is a =
"normal"
> lifter tick (goes away at any rpm above 1500), I've had no problems. =
I've
> tried a number of additives over the years, and can't say I've =
noticed any
> improvement or degradation in performance. I will point out, that =
with old
> V8 beaters, STP oil treatment adds enough extra viscosity to prevent =
oil
> slipping around worn rings and valves (symptom - blue smoke out the
> exhaust). I've never had the oil light come on (as Roger described), =
but
> my
> opportunities to drive above 100mph are limited.=20
>=20
> Looking forward...Chris
>=20
> "Friends don't let friends ride with me"
>=20
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:26:55 -0800
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey (was: Little oil survey on our cars)
>=20
> > Chris...submission
> >
> > 1. Vehicle:             1992 Stealth TT
> > 2. Oil weight:          10-30w
> > 3. Oil brand:           Mobil 1 (synthetic)
> > 4. Filter brand:        Mitsu, Fram, etc.
> > 5. Additives:           None now (Slick 50 for 4 changes)
> > 6. Change frequency:    Every 3K miles or six months
> > 7. Observations:                Synthetic Mobil 1 is used =
exclusively,
> (I was informed
> > the initial breakin period of 1000 kms  was done on Quaker fossil.) =
No
> problems noted
> > with exception of standard ticking, which has been alleviated for =
some
> time by using
> > an oil flush (Gunk) at last oil change. Little opportunity exists =
here
> to drive at
> > high speeds for any lenght of time. Were that availed perhaps a =
5-50 or
> 5-60 might be
> > the choice I would option. 10-30, however has been just fine, with =
5-30
> used if winter
> > is colder than normal, here on the mild west coast. Oh, just over =
40,000
> kms on the
> > car.
>=20
> Darcy
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:07:23 +0000
> From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey
>=20
> Thanks Chris .)
>=20
> > 1. Vehicle:             1993 VR4 (Euro Version)
> > 2. Oil weight:          5W-40 / 10W-60
> > 3. Oil brand:           Castrol RS (synthetic)
> > 4. Filter brand:        Mitsu
> > 5. Additives:           none now (Slick 50, Ceramica in the first 2
> years)
> > 6. Change frequency:    Every 5K - 7.5k km
> > 7. Observations:       =20
>=20
> > Car came with 10W-40 from Castrol and I used over the years until =
5W-40
> came
> > out. I also used Slick 50 and Ceramica snake oil and I cannot say =
if it
> did
> > anything good. At least it did nothing bad as the parts looked very =
good
> > when inspected during the rebuild. No deposits nor any expected =
wear.
> > Had the oil light comming on with 0W-40 Mobil 1 at very high speeds
> (+150)
> > and also with 5W-40 as the peisons were gone. With 10W-60 (or mixed =
with
> > 5W-40 in winter) the problem dissapeared. Castrol 10W-60 is =
recommended
> by
> > the local tuning shop that prepares Porsche TwinTurbos. Ticking =
noise is
> also
> > better with the "thicker" oil.
> =20
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:11:26 -0600
> From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S:  oil survey/ oil level
>=20
> R.G. wrote:=20
> > 1 year ago went Mobil 0W-40 for best cold start protection
> > but then often getting oil-level light, especially speed >150mph =
driving
>=20
> > up hill. I lifted throttle, light went off. Checking warm oil level
> showed 1/2-3/4 between
> > marks.  Back to Castrol 5W-40 never got problem again
> > until compression problem started to get worse.
> > Before rebuild ran car over its limit, killed three pistons=20
> > 4 rings.  After rebuild still oil around but no oil steam coming =
out BOV
> anymore.=20
> > As this happend oil level light came on often at speed >130mph.
> > During rebuild exchanged oil level switch.   Last week at
> > 150mph light came on again; oil level night before 3/4.=20
> > light came on at lower speeds until it appeared at 140km/h. I went =
into
> gas station,
> > let car idle 2 minutes, then oil level checked empty! I looked=20
> > through oil cap hole, saw enough oil. I filled a litre, got 3/4 =
mark on
> stick!=20
> > Yesterday, speeded up hill, light came on.  Filled 10W-60 Racing
> Castrol, heated engine good
> > made the hill tests. No problem since then :)  Question:  if oil-lev=
el
> switch does anything else than
> > measure oil level. I doubt related to oil pressure as meter
> > always showed higher good pressure on autobahn.  My experiences
> > are that 0W-40 are too thin for our cars when=20
> > hard high temp conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for =
our
> cars but
> > not so great for winter condition.  Wide range seems better, say =
5W-50
> (I think Mobil 1 has
> > one) but I'll use 10W-60 in summer, mix 5W-40 winter as Castrol =
doesn't
> have high range fluid.=20
> > New stuff in engine lowered ticking sound.=20
> > Roger
>=20
> Roger:
> The oil level switch COULD still reflect oil pressure; if oil in pan =
is
> very low, and pump is intermittently suckng air (oil pressure near =
zero
> transiently) the oil pressure GUAGE won't reflect this well because =
it
> has such a slow rate of change; needle takes awhile to get to new
> values.  This is like a gas guage on some cars, which change SLOWLY =
so
> as not to alarm people with transient changes due to hills changing
> angle of fuel in tank etc but give a time-average value.  The oil =
LIGHT
> may reflect instant values, and could have sensitivity to pick up =
very
> transient oil pressure loss such as one sees with oilpan near-empty.  =

>=20
> I don't know if it is tied into oil pressure, though.  Sounds like =
you
> are pumping alot of oil to the top end of the motor (valvecovers), =
and
> getting caught up in crank windage at sustained high speeds.  You =
could
> consider 1) having a deeper oilpan made up, and extending the oil =
pump
> pickup downward to suck off the deeper sump.  Making about 2" (50mm)
> deeper would hold another liter or more, and could solve your =
problem.=20
> MUCH deeper makes the pump have to suck up against more of a vacuum
> drawing the oil up, so I would not go TOO deep.  Since you are so
> serious about your car, and do alot of highspeed driving, this would =
be
> the best way.  Alternatives (not as good but functional) would =
include
> 2) an oil pressure reservoir, that will send pressurized oil into =
system
> anytime pressure drops/sucks air (commercially available) but this =
means
> YOU STILL SUCK AIR; and 3) overfilling the crankcase (Full mark plus
> 1/4-1/2 more or so).  This works and can be fine; if indeed your oil
> level is below zero/causing oil level light WHEN DRIVING, then =
clearly
> the crankcase is NOT OVERFULL AT SPEED, so overfilling AT STOP would =
NOT
> mean the crank is plowing through crankcase oil way way up when
> driving--the oil is someplace you have no control over and must
> compensate for by overfilling AT REST.
>=20
> I agree with heavier oil for heavy load driving.  I have always used
> Mobil 1 15W50 all year round including Wisconsin winters; no problems
> with bearings etc.  Synthetics flow way better, even a 15W synthetic
> flows better than a 10W standard in supercold.
>=20
> Hope this gives some ideas!
> Jack Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:39:34 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Oil survey - revised
>=20
> Howdy folks...
>=20
> Darc made a good point that could affect the data, so I added another
> field
> for "current mileage".
>=20
> THANKS!!!
>=20
> =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>=20
> 1. Vehicle: 1995 VR4
> 2. Current mileage: 35K
> 2. Oil weight: 5-50w
> 3. Oil brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand: OEM
> 5. Additives: None
> 6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or six months
> 7. Observations: =09
>=20
> =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>=20
> Looking forward...Chris
>=20
> "Friends don't let friends ride with me"
>=20
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:37:58 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust Fumes
>=20
> For everyone who's running straight exhausts, and perhaps EGR's =
blocked
> off... Is your exhaust smell exceptionally noxious? I've noticed =
mines
> is getting to be particularly noxious compared to some other straight
> flowing exhausts, that I've done.
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:43:29 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust Fumes
>=20
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: RPM Motorsports [mailto:rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net]
> Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 10:38 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust Fumes
>=20
>=20
> For everyone who's running straight exhausts, and perhaps EGR's =
blocked
> off... Is your exhaust smell exceptionally noxious? I've noticed =
mines
> is getting to be particularly noxious compared to some other straight
> flowing exhausts, that I've done.
> =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> Rumor had it that a catless system would smell like rotten eggs. I =
still
> have my precats, but I'm running a straight 3" all the way to the =
bumper.
> No
> unusual odors at this point.
>=20
> Looking forward...Chris
>=20
> "Friends don't let friends ride with me"
>=20
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:41:47 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on ice
>=20
> Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the snow cause more of =
the
> sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of tires behind snow, =
the
> skinnier the tire, the better it runs on snow due less area on ice?
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:49:49 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: shifter alignment
>=20
> I've found that the best shifter feeling to me in my 1991 is to =
switch a
> 94 shifter into the car and cut the bottom of the shifter off. and
> reweld the eyelet a little higher to the same location as the stock =
91
> shifter. There is actually a difference between the 91-93 and 94+
> shifters. The 91's are stupendously high as compared to the 94's, but
> the 94's have a longer shaft at the bottom.  Is the 94 chassis lower
> below the shifter?? I tried straight swapping the 94 shifter and I =
found
> that it would go into all the gears except 2nd, where it would clunk =
and
> not go it. I found this problem to be that the 94 has a longer base =
on
> the shifter, which actually hits the chassis, specifically where the
> chassis creates a groove for the shifter to go through. If you look
> underneath the shifter, it looks like there's a indentation for the
> shifter to go through when you shift into second. But once I swapped
> shifters, I had much shorter height without the close pattern of a =
short
> shifter.  2nd gear didn't seem as clunky, but I still don't =
understand
> why, the cable throw shouldn't be different.
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:57:11 -0600
> From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey - revised
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1993 VR4
> 2. Current mileage:     49,000
> 3. Oil weight:          15W-50
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1 (synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:        OEM
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    Every 3K miles=20
> 8. Observations:        No problems.  Very little to no prob with =
lifter
> tick.  Stands up to hard use.
> =20
> Jack Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:59:23 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Fuel cut
>=20
> Well, it's finally happened. The last couple days we've had BEAUTIFUL
> weather here in the PNW, so Beastie has been out from under cover. =
Having
> just finished the exhaust a few weeks ago, along with a BOV and
> bored/polished throttle body, I have better flow than ever before. =
The
> turbos spool quickly and stay there longer. Now, for the first time =
ever,
> I've had that "wonderful" fuel cut experience. You folks are correct,
> nearly
> slammed my head into the steering wheel. The engine recovers quickly, =
but
> this is NOT a good thing under WOT (or race) conditions. A couple
> questions
> for those who've already been here:
>=20
> 1. Will replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve this?
> 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut defencer" device?
> 3. I know there's been debate about the various devices that can be =
run in
> line with the stock ECU, but I noticed (in the last issue of Max =
Speed)
> that
> Jet Industries will now remap the stock ECU to accommodate the =
specific
> mods
> that I have. While this isn't cheap ($600) it's less expensive than =
some
> of
> the other options. Clearly the drawback is that it's a one time =
thing, no
> adjustment unless it's reprogrammed again. Not ideal for the tuner =
who
> wants
> to play with the settings, but if they can optimize, it would be good =
for
> those who don't want to tweak regularly. Has anyone given them a try
> recently? Ideas? Opinions?
>=20
> Looking forward...Chris
>=20
> "Friends don't let friends ride with me"
>=20
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:25:33 -0600
> From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel cut
>=20
> Chris Winkley wrote: [snips]
> > finished exhaust, BOV, bored/polished throttle body, better flow =
than
> ever.=20
> > turbos spool quickly, stay longer.  For the first time,
> > I've had fuel cut, nearly slammed my head into steering wheel. =
engine
> recovers quickly, but
> > this NOT good under WOT. questions:=20
> > 1. Will replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve this?
>=20
> No.  Fuel pump has absolutely NOTHING TO DO with fuelcut.  Is however =
a
> wise investment if going faster than fuelcut-zone.  Injectors alone =
will
> just richen up mix, car will still fuelcut but will be richer doing =
it
> and run like crap because you have not altered the endproduct of fuel
> management programming to compensate for the larger injectors.
>=20
> > 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut defencer" device?
>=20
> Don't know.  IF it worked might be relatively poor band-aid =
(leanout).
>=20
> > 3. various devices that can be run inline with stock ECU; last =
issue of
> Max Speed
> > Jet Industries will remap stock ECU to accommodate specific mods
> > I have $600; less expensive than some other options. Clear =
drawback: one
> time thing, no
> > adjustment unless reprogrammed again. Not ideal for tuner who wants
> > settings, but if they optimize, would be good for
> > those who don't want to tweak. Has anyone given them a try =
recently?=20
> > 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
>=20
> With '95 you "can't use" a VPC (in quotes because no one has said how
> and printed it, but I am pretty sure it could be used...different =
wiring
> harness is issue, but only 3 or 4 wires need to be intercepted/tapped
> into.) =20
> I have heard through history that Jet Industries just puts some =
sticker
> on the stock computer box, gives you a couple additional parts which
> essentially vent the wastegate line some like a bleeder valve so =
higher
> boost, thus better performance; charging exorbitant fee while ACTING
> like they hacked into your computer which they did NOT.  Whether they
> just "got religion" and suddenly are reputable, hired a computer =
whiz,
> and now TRULY, REALLY, check-really-IS-in-the-mail-THIStime _DO_ do a
> real and worthwhile COMPUTER mod is the question.  Dunno.  Don't =
wanna
> try, myself...
>=20
> For 94+ the Apexi AFC will work.  Best technique is to get 550cc
> injectors (or 720's will work with VPC+GCC if 91-93; 720 might work =
with
> AFC), because you fool the computer into thinking you are flowing =
less
> and less air, the larger the injectors you use and the more you "lean
> out" the VPC/GCC or the APexi AFC to compensate for the larger
> injectors.  I have never fuelcut with VPC/GCC/720cc injectors.  With
> 550's it was almost never.
>=20
> TRE MASC also works/worked, but apparently they are not truly in
> business anymore...?
>=20
> Jack Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:43:38 +0000
> From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on ice
>=20
> > Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the snow cause more of =
the
> > sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of tires behind snow, =
the
> > skinnier the tire, the better it runs on snow due less area on ice?
>=20
> In fact the smaller the tire the better traction in snow. But on ice =
the
> story
> is different and the wideness of the tire doesn't play a lot in that =
case.
> The
> thread design and the rubber plays a more important rule. On another =
hand
> the
> wider the tire the larger the area each tire has contact to the =
surface.
> Therefore the force (pounds per square-inch) is samller and the tire =
tends
> more
> to "slide". This is theoretical stuff but when you go to a prepared
> sliding
> track you'll have to feel in your back what's going on :)
>=20
> Roger,
> icey-Switzerland
>=20
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:21:33 +0000
> From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel cut
>=20
> Jack said everything and I add just my (bad) experiences here.
>=20
> First, what are all the mods you're having now and what fuel do you =
run ?
>=20
> I guess you've pushed boost up to around 1.2bars and plus. Fuel cut
> appears when
> the ECU jumps off its internal fuel map. Before this you'll normally =
feel
> a
> hesitation as it retards the timing when some of the fuel values go =
out of
> the
> map (timing is retarded when knock appears!!). On my car fuel cut =
appeared
> at
> 1.25bars but some hesitation was feelable around 1.22bars peak. =
Therefore
> I'm
> very sure you'll also have bad knock around !
>=20
> > > 1. Will replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve this?
>=20
> Jack said it all :)
>=20
> > > 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut defencer" device?
>=20
> No, we don't have a "fuel cut defencer" device like those for the =
Toyotas
> (MR2,
> Supras). These cars do have a boost pressure sensor that reads real =
values
> and
> uses the signal in the ECU. This can be tweaked by thinking the ECU =
that
> there's
> less boost. The same way can be done like Jack described for the =
Apexi
> AFC. I
> got it because I thought it is a good idea to increase fuel where the
> fuel-cut
> appeard. WRONG, because the fuel cut is related to knock and maxing =
out
> the
> injectors. After installing the AFC I was able to lean the mixture =
out and
> fuel-cut disappeard. Of course it did as I tweaked the ECU thinking =
that
> there's
> less air and therefore less fuel is given. As I did not install =
larger
> injectors
> I ran into the danger that the mixture was too lean. On the dyno we =
runned
> the
> car under full load at 5600 where fuel cut appeared and we were able =
to
> lean it
> out but were still in the safe area. So I thought I'm fine ...
>=20
> .. until we found out where knock appeard ! We had to reduce boost to
> 1.05bars
> to prevent knock and therefore any fuel-cut defencing is not necessary=

> anymore.
>=20
> I therefore highly recommend to check this are because an engine =
rebuild
> will be
> your next step. Just adding too much fuel to cool down the combustion
> chamber
> may help but does not solve the knock problem. Higher boost simply =
also
> means
> higher octane level !
>=20
> For the Jet thing they have a very bad reputation like Jack said. The =
ECU
> program can only be changed by adding another dautherboard and =
EPROMS.
> Then the
> program can be altered. There's also a guy in Australia that says he =
does
> something to the ECU and for only around Aussie$ 800. Well nobody =
really
> knows
> as these guys of course do not tell the trick. I've got the G-Force =
ECU
> with the
> dautherboard and it's really alot of work. You can get it for around =
$850
> but
> still does not cure your knock thing.
>=20
> > I have never fuelcut with VPC/GCC/720cc injectors.  With
> > 550's it was almost never.
>=20
> Of course, Jack runned racing gas or used octane booster. Another =
thing
> that
> helps to prevent knock is to reduce backpressure in the exhaust =
manifold
> that is
> caused by the turbos.
>=20
> Just don't go the risky way as I did ! you can find the pics of my =
rebuild
> the
> proken pistons on my website.
>=20
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>=20
> Visit my homepage under: =
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:00:02 -0800
> From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Revised Oil Survey
>=20
> All:
>=20
> My 2 hp's worth ....
> =20
>  =
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
> =20
> 1. Vehicle:             1994 R/T
> 2. Current mileage:     72K
> 3. Oil weight:          10-40w (Dino) Since birth
> 4. Oil brand:           Quaker
> 5. Filter brand:        OEM/Fram every other oil change
> 6. Additives:           Absolutely None
> 7. Change frequency:    Every 2.5K miles
> 8. Observations: Lifter tick only when car sits for more than
> 4-5 days without being driven.  Always goes
> away after the first mile or so of driving.
> Came up short at one oil change by almost a
> 1/2 quart.  Found an undertightened oil filter
> caused the problem (followed the streak to the
> source).
>=20
>=20
> Rich
> Emerald Green 94 R/T
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:35:15 +0000
> From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Team3S: HKS SBOV setting
>=20
> I just feel that the BOV opens too early. I've turned the screw in =
(nut
> fully
> yet) but it didn't changed a lot.
>=20
> The beahivour is that I normally drive around and shift normally, the
> thing
> works good. But with cruise control on ,when the throttle is open and =
goes
> to
> almost closing, it just feels like a short misfire then. This means =
when
> the
> trottle will be closed (not fully) slowely then everything is fine. =
But
> doing
> this more quickly (as the cruise control does) it feels like =
something hit
> me.
> For me the BOV opens to fast at a very low difference, releasing some
> boost and
> then closes immediatly causing the boost comming back. Does anyone =
have a
> good
> way how to set the BOV correctly ??
>=20
> Thanks, Roger
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:16:25 -0500
> From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> These are the specs
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1993 3KGT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:     200 (since rebuild)
> 3. Oil weight:          10-40w (Dino) Valvoline
> 4. Oil brand:           Valvoline
> 5. Filter brand:        Purolator
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    1st change after 150 miles
> 8. Observations: No oil loss.  Oil in I/C subsystem seems to
> have dried up.
>=20
> After about 2000 miles, I will change to my regular old Mobil-1 =
15W50.
>=20
> - -Bob
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 14:27:12 -0800
> From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:                  1994 VR4
> 2. Current mileage:      34,000  (6k miles of ownership)
> 3. Oil weight:              10W-30
> 4. Oil brand:               Mobil 1 Synthetic
> 5. Filter brand:            OEM
> 6. Additives:               None (about to try some Gunk)
> 7. Change frequency:  Every 3K miles (3 changes so far)
> 8. Observations:         Little to no lifter tick.  When it arises, =
it
> usually
>                                   goes away after a short warmup and
> slight blip
>                                   of the throttle.  The other day it =
was
> ticking quite
>                                   a bit, but it went away when I =
opened
> the hood!
>=20
> Errin Humphrey
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 14:27:17 -0800
> From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: shifter alignment
>=20
> Ron-a-roid wrote:
>=20
> > Is there any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a possible =
cause
> of
> >  some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in the =
feel of
> the
> >  engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd   [snip]
>=20
> I just recently read somewhere that our cars use a cable-operated
> shifter.  Is this true?  Does this bear any significance to the =
problem
> at hand?  I have heard people complain that the cable operation is
> a weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our car doesn't
> use one.  What is the (superior?) alternative in other sports cars?
>=20
> Happy Holidays!
>=20
> - --Errin Humphrey
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:23:30 -0600
> From: "Steven A. File" <sfile@usa.net>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> Here's both of my cars:
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1997 3KGT VR-4 (pure stock)
> 2. Current mileage:     5850
> 3. Oil weight:          10-30w
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil One (Synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:        Mitsu OEM
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    Every four months
> 8. Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 500
> miles to Castrol
> 10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Have had car =
since
> new,
> bought August 1997. Valve tapping noise until changed to Mobil One. =
Air
> conditioner compressor replaced last October due to clicking noise =
that
> sounded a lot like lifter tapping--helped dramatically (see below). =
Took
> car
> on its first overnight road trip this weekend (about 350 miles) and =
got 36
> miles per gallon of gasoline (no air conditioning) averaging 85 mph =
on
> open
> road. Car driven only on sunny weekends.
>=20
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1998 3KGT SOHC
> 2. Current mileage:     28,950
> 3. Oil weight:          10-30w
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil One (Synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:        Mitsu OEM
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    Every 5,000 miles or two months
> 8. Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 525
> miles to Castrol
> 10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Valve lifters =
replaced
> at 2100 miles last March due to excessive noise--was later found to =
be the
> air conditioner compressor clutch making a clicking noise whenever =
the air
> was turned off. Have had car since new, bought December 1997. Slight =
valve
> tapping noise until changed to Mobil One. Daily driver.
>=20
>=20
> Steve File
> mailto:sfile@usa.net
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:27:19 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
> Subject: Team3S: OT:  550 Maranello
>=20
> I just got back from a driving my friend's newly acquired 550 =
Maranello.
>=20
> There are no words that I can put together to adequately describe =
this
> car.
> All I can say is "Wow", "Sweet", and "Thank you Mr. Ferrari".
>=20
> I am ruined for life.
>=20
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
> Barry
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:32:54 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: shifter alignment
>=20
> Our cars use a cable operated shifter.
>=20
> They are beefy cables though.  The real problem in my opinion, or at =
least
> part of it, is the play in the bushings at the cable attachment =
points.
> There is simply too much play.  A good Saturday morning project would =
be
> to
> find appropriately sized bushing and hand cut them to fit the shifter
> assembly perfectly.  I'd bet this would greatly reduce the slop in =
the
> shifter.  I plan to do this to mine within the next month or so.
>=20
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
> Barry
>=20
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > Ron-a-roid wrote:
> >
> > > Is there any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
> > possible cause of
> > >  some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in
> > the feel of the
> > >  engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd   =
[snip]
> >
> > I just recently read somewhere that our cars use a cable-operated
> > shifter.  Is this true?  Does this bear any significance to the =
problem
> > at hand?  I have heard people complain that the cable operation is
> > a weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our car doesn't
> > use one.  What is the (superior?) alternative in other sports cars?
> >
> > Happy Holidays!
> >
> > --Errin Humphrey
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:51:05 PST
> From: "Zentelis none" <zentelis@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Happy Holidrives
>=20
> Happy Holidays to everyone :)
> Santa still hasn't gotten back to me about my Stealth
>=20
> oh, if no one minds a question from an amature, on a Twin Turbo, is =
an=20
> intercooler recquired for each turbo kits?
>=20
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:28:20 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1991 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:     68,000
> 3. Oil weight:         15W-50
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
> 5. Filter brand:        Fram
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
> 8. Observations:                Will start ticking at around the 3000
> Mile mark. But is much quieter than with 10W-30
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:30:45 EST
> From: VR4Power@aol.com
> Subject: Re:  Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM, you wrote:
>=20
> <<1. Vehicle:             1991 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:     68,000
> 3. Oil weight:         15W-50
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
> 5. Filter brand:        Fram
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
> 8. Observations:                Will start ticking at around the 3000
> Mile mark. But is much quieter than with 10W-30>>
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 02:11:12 -0500
> From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> ><1. Vehicle:             1992 Stealth R/T TT
> > 2. Current mileage:     72,900
> > 3. Oil weight:          15W-50
> > 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
> > 5. Filter brand:        Mitsu
> > 6. Additives:           Fuel Additive: Redline SI-1 good for 5 =
tanks of
> gas.  But once every 3000 miles I use one bottle for one tank of gas. =
 I
> hope to clear valve sediments.
> > 7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
> > 8. Observations:        Almost no ticking.  Only when cold and =
almost
> unaudible.
> > Mile mark. But is much quieter than with when I got it at 64,000 =
miles.
> >
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:36:01 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1994 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:     63,000
> 3. Oil weight:          10W-30
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
> 5. Filter brand:        OEM
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
> 8. Observations:        Period ticking, especially nearing oil =
change.
> Just
> tore down the engine.  Cross hatch still on cylinder walls.  All =
bearings
> and mating/thrust surfaces in perfect condition.  Zero coking in oil
> return
> lines.
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:43:36 -0800
> From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey - revised
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             1994 Stealth NT
> 2. Current mileage:     17,000
> 3. Oil weight:          10W-30
> 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1 (synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:        OEM
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    Every 3.5K miles
> 8. Observations:        Lifter tick driving home from showroom; =
crankcase
> was 1/2 qt low and tick lessened when it was topped off, but =
continued
> through break-in.  Changed to Mobil 1 at 500 miles, and tick =
disappeared
> was
> never repeated.  No oil burned ever, but went through ~1/2 QT once =
running
> at 120+ for about an hour...
>=20
> Merry Christmas, Folks!
>=20
> Forrest
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 07:29:11 EST
> From: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net writes:
>=20
> << 1. Vehicle:          1991 3000GT VR-4
>  2. Current mileage: 117500 (First 80K by prior owner)
>  3. Oil weight:          10W-30
>  4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
>  5. Filter brand:        Factory
>  6. Additives:           None (Have used Marvel Mystery Oil)
>  7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
>  8. Observations:  >> Runs very well
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 08:10:09 EST
> From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> 1) Vehicle: 1992 Stealth TT
> 2) Mileage: 59,000 Miles
> 3) Oil Weight: 10w-30
> 4) Oil Brand: Mobil 1
> 5) Filter Brand: OEM
> 6) Additives: None
> 7) Change Frequency: 3,000 Miles
> 8) Observations: No lifter ticking. They were replaced at 48,000=20
>                          miles under extended warranty due to tick.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:10:55 -0700
> From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> 1. Vehicle:             92 RT/Turbo
> 2. Current mileage:     72,000
> 3. Oil weight:         10W-30
> 4. Oil brand:           Redline
> 5. Filter brand:        Mits OEM
> 6. Additives:           None
> 7. Change frequency:    3-5K Miles
> 8. Observations:
>=20
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 08:23:45 -0800
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> Just had to reply ...sounds like a new engine Barry, dispite the =
teeney
> weeney problem
> : )
>=20
> Darc
>=20
> Barry E. King wrote:
>=20
> > 1. Vehicle:             1994 3000GT VR-4
> > 2. Current mileage:     63,000
> > 3. Oil weight:          10W-30
> > 4. Oil brand:           Mobil 1
> > 5. Filter brand:        OEM
> > 6. Additives:           None
> > 7. Change frequency:    3000 Miles
> > 8. Observations:        Period ticking, especially nearing oil =
change.
> Just
> > tore down the engine.  Cross hatch still on cylinder walls.  All
> bearings
> > and mating/thrust surfaces in perfect condition.  Zero coking in =
oil
> return
> > lines.
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
> ------------------------------
>=20
> End of Team3S Digest V1 #53
> ***************************
>=20
> For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20

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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:47:26 -0800 (PST)
From: Satya Palani <satya@gho.st>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey - revised

1. Vehicle:             1992 3000GT
2. Current mileage:     95,000
3. Oil weight:          10W-30
4. Oil brand:           Redline (synthetic)
5. Filter brand:        OEM
6. Additives:           None
7. Change frequency:    Every 5-6k miles
8. Observations:        Seems like Mobil 1 is the most popular oil on this
list.  Is it the price, or some miraculous aspect about it?  Never tried
Mobil 1, but have always been happy with Redline's product.

- --
Satya Palani
satya@gho.st
http://www.longshadows.com

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 12:19:39 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: [Fwd: Team3S: RE: Oil Leak and Digest

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------E6E6CDF9983FFC1D99056BFD
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Michael;

I have rerouted my response to your questions as a"forward" at this
point, as  I suspect my first response was screened out, perhaps fearing
it as a reply to your entire Digest. Had I done that, (and  I didn't
)members would have suffered through the posting of the digest
twice..reasons for not doing so, deliniated below.

Darc

- --------------E6E6CDF9983FFC1D99056BFD
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Message-ID: <367E93B7.1956DB28@bc.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 10:30:15 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Reply-To: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Organization: West Coast Ethnographics
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en]C-SYMPA  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1 #53
References: <B1773568B353D011A26800805F9A885E021BB677@ZEUS>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Yo bro;

When you want to resond to any item on the list, you will have to manually
select and input "the subject" (or ask Roger for advice on how to bypass this
with a digest subscription). Simply hitting the respond button, reposts the
entire digest along with your question. Unlike other lists, we do not have a lot
of traffic, and try to keep it to serious 3S technology...so you might simply
consider unsubscribing from the digest version and subscribing to a regular post
version. Reposting an entire digest is not advised.

About your your problem...add some octane boost for starters to insure your gas
is up to snuff. Then make certain you always have high octane when you fill.
Assuming it's not gas, you could disconnect your battery (positive terminal) for
5 or 10 minutes, then reconnect and start the computer learn cycle again. I t
may help...try slow acceleration from 2000 rpm up, in 2nd  and 3rd gears...4th
if you have open roads,  to perform this leartn cycle. Give the computer time to
learn these parameters. Then, when you are satisfied this is input,  try a WOT
acceleration in the same. If the problem still is there, try it a few more times
at the slow acceleration, and then WOT again. If none of this helps, I would get
the leak fixed, as you'll have to do that anyway. If the wires have been
saturated for a long time and cannot be cleaned, you'll have to  replace them as
well. A cheap wire option might be a recently hammered TT at a wrecking yard, if
the Christmas season has impacted your pocket change...perferably one with low
kms.  That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure other
team members may have other suggestions.

Darc

92 Stealth TT   Victoria BC


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 20:25:25 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hesitation problem (was Team3S digest)

Michael,

First, an admin advice, please never reply the whole message or the WHOLE DIGEST
! Thanks !

> I have recently acquired a new vehicle.  I picked up a stock 91StealthTT

Wlcome to the boosted world :)

> The head covers are leaking a small amount of oil and it is pooling
> around the spark plug where they meet the wires.  Also mentioned, the wires
> are oil soaked.

Is this leaking visible ? You can easily pull the front spark plug cover by
removing the black screws. Then just pull the plug wires (of course at the boot)
and inspect them for any oil. Also pull the front plugs to check the  gap and
condition. How's your mileage ? As I suppose the car has around 60k the question
arises if the 60k service (timing belt and more) has been done already.

> However, what is happening is that as this increase occurs it eventually
> becomes too much and shorts the spark right to the block because the pooled
> oil in contact with the plug.  Solution, fix the oil leak, new plug wires
> and give it a try.

No, if the spark ignites to the block then the spark is gone. If the plugs are
soaked up to the contact then you have a much more serious problem. I agree with
the wires to be exchanged (take better than stock ones) but I'd also inspect the
plugs at the same time. The rear ones are a PITA if you're not familiar as you
have to remove the  air intake part and this is not easy if you do it the first
time. But with patience and some time it can be done. We can send you scanned
papers from the manual and of course we'll help you remotely :)

> Do you agree with the dealer's diagnosis or does the source of this problem
> lie elsewhere.

What you're describing could also be a hesitation caused by the timing to be
retarded. But as your car is bone stock I doubt that this is your problem. I
therefore would say that the cause lies in the ignition or the mixture.

For the mixture, try to loosen the two front clamps on the black plastic part
that has an ellbow that leads to the throttle body attached to the intake
manifold (TwinTurbo written on it). This is called the Intercooler y-pipe. Pull
those two hoses that are commign from the Intercoolers and inspect the inside
for too much oil deposit. This caused some "uneven" acceleration on mine as the
intake got clogged (including valves). It's very easy and a 15 minutes check.

I'm almost sure that the dealer hasn't checked the rear plugs as it would take
him at least an hour. If he did, then he's a moron not changing the plugs and
wires at the same time ! Therefore, my advice is to check the front bank first
(very easy) and check the intake hoses for too much oil (a slight film is normal
but no lakes).

Hope this helps a little and I'm sure others have more ideas.

Regards, Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 20:36:49 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S:  oil survey/ oil level

Jack, thanks for your input on my oil level problem :)
 
> The oil level switch COULD still reflect oil pressure; if oil in pan is
> very low, and pump is intermittently suckng air (oil pressure near zero
> transiently) the oil pressure GUAGE won't reflect this well because it
> has such a slow rate of change; needle takes awhile to get to new
> values.

I'm really not sure to this as the pressure should go lower over a longer
period. On the Autobahn I had speed around 120mph as the ligh came on. I lifted
the throttle and the light went off. I then reset the cruise speed and the light
did not came on again until the next hill. But over a longer period this should
have been visible on the gauge as well.

> I don't know if it is tied into oil pressure, though.  Sounds like you
> are pumping alot of oil to the top end of the motor (valvecovers), and
> getting caught up in crank windage at sustained high speeds.

Correct, absolutely my thoughts. I think I just run too thin oil for the car
with the new pistons and rings. When looking into the valve cover the thing as
enough oil everywhere !

> You could consider 1) having a deeper oilpan made up

Gulp, I never had this problem before the pistons went south. So I think this
meight help but does not cure the cause.

> 2) an oil pressure reservoir, that will send pressurized oil into system

Yes, if the pressure IS the problem.

> 3) overfilling the crankcase (Full mark plus 1/4-1/2 more or so).

Ok, I'm at the top mark now and think that with the thicker oil I'm back on the
good side. Maybe the formula has changed of the light oils and they are thinner
than expected now.

> Hope this gives some ideas!

Yes, it did. Also the survey helps to see the range of oils the people are
running. I'll definitely fill up the crank the next time with 10W50 synthetics
and will check out the behaivour.

Thanks again,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 13:11:24 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Team3S: RE: Oil Leak and Digest

Michael...

This suggestion came via an attachment from Darc...

<snip>

If the wires have been saturated for a long time and cannot be cleaned,
you'll have to replace them as well. A cheap wire option might be a recently
hammered TT at a wrecking yard, if the Christmas season has impacted your
pocket change...preferably one with low
kms.  That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure other
team members may have other suggestions. Darc

<end of snip>

I still have my factory wires which I replaced with Magnecores at 27.5K. If
you end up needing another set, you can make me a reasonable offer.
BTW...I'm with Darc on resetting your computer. It's always a good starting
point. Even though having fluid (of any sort) in the plug wells would not be
a good thing, I find it difficult to imagine that it's grounding your wires
(that's what your explanation of the dealers words sounds like to me). There
is at least an eighth of an inch of rubber surrounding that insulator and it
shouldn't soak up oil very well.

Looking forward...Chris

"Friends don't let friends ride with me"

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent: Monday, December 21, 1998 12:20 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: [Fwd: Team3S: RE: Oil Leak and Digest

Michael;

I have rerouted my response to your questions as a "forward" at this
point, as  I suspect my first response was screened out, perhaps fearing
it as a reply to your entire Digest. Had I done that, (and I didn't)
members would have suffered through the posting of the digest
twice..reasons for not doing so, deliniated below.

Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 15:00:43 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Digest Filters

Hi Group;

I inadvertently advised Michael O. of the wrong wise man recently (there
are few here) when I was referring to Digest use. Jim M.  posted in the
past on this topic when we were all huddled together at Stealth
@starnet.net. The particular Digest this advice appears in there is
#608, and he explains therein how to use filters on Netscape properly if
one wants to use the Digest version, and respond to individual topics
within it, without posting the whole half acre back at us. I indicated,
in error, to query Roger on this, however, although his wisdom is
legend, it was Jim who I meant. : ) : ) : )

Darc

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #54
***************************

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