--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #53
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest Monday,
December 21 1998 Volume 01 : Number
053
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:48:12 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump question
I'm still in the GT &%ç research thing and
nearly fall over the fuel pump I got
from Brian. It is a Nippon Denso pump
with the description 5T11 and the number
195130-1020.
Can someone
please verify what kind of pump this is and how much it flows ?
Thanks in
advance,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:35:02 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Little oil survey on our cars / oil level
Since I got the car in
Feb94 (93 model) I ran only synthetics in the car. At the
beginning 10W-40,
then 5W-40 and now 5W-40 mixed with 10W-60. Also in the
beginning I used some
snake oil like Slick 50 and Ceramica but stopped after
discussions as well as
it was just too expensive.
As my car got the slight rebuild, I checked
many parts out :
The oil lines where in perfect conditions and there was
no sign of any
cristalized oil visible.
The cylinder walls looked very
good and the mechanic was surprised even after 3
of the pistons broke. Very,
very low wear for 65k.
Same ot the heads. There was no need to grind them
as measurment showed an
absolutely plain surface.
The cams also show
less wear then expected and after cleaning the intake and the
valves also
these parts showed lesser wear than expected.
I run the bleeder valve
with 0.75bars of boost peak (around 350hp dynoed) since
June 1994 and
therefore the car was used over the specs it was built for some
years. This
does not lead me into the conclusion that snake oils helped in any
way but it
says that they don't hurt as well. The broken pistons where due to
my
ignorance and have nothing to to with this.
Back to the oil. I'm
sure using very good quality oil and changing it every
5000-7500km is the key
to the good condition the parts are in. Measuring the oil
temp showed up to
106°C on the dyno. Normal use showed around 98°C and less but
I expect higher
temps when driving for a long time on the german autobahn
(gulp). The cars
came with Castrol 10W-40 Synthetics and I always stayed with it
as I never
had any problem. As the synths came down in price I went to 5W-40
due
to the many cold-starts I had during the winter times. Also null
problemos.
About 1 year ago I went to the Mobil 0W-40 for the best cold start
protection
but then I often ran into getting the oil-level light (just above
the ASC ON
light) on the autobahn. Especially on speeds over 150mph as the
streets went up
the hill the light came on. I immediatly lifted the throttle
and the light went
off. Checking the warm oil level showed about 1/2 to 3/4
of the range between
the marks then. I went back to Castrol 5W-40 and never
got this problem again
... until my compression problem started to begin
worse.
Before the rebuild I ran the car over it's limit and killed three
pistons and at
least 4 rings. Some pressure went down to the crankcase due to
this and caused
the oil cap to leak as well as the oil was pressed into the
intake through the
crankcase ventilation. This then caused alot oil deposits
in the intercollers
and it's piping. Also the idle stepper motor got totally
clogged as well as the
intake valves due to the damn oil. Now after the
rebuild there's still some oil
around but, luckily, there's no oil steam
comming out the BOV anymore (uff,
turbos are ok). As this happend the oil
level light came on very often at speeds
over 130mph so I decided not to go
higher then until the problem got fixed.
BTW, during the rebuild we also
exchanged the oil level switch to be sure
everything is alright. As I went to
Germany last week I speeded up to around
150mph as the damn light came on
again. I checked the oil level the night before
and the level was on 3/4 of
the range so I expected no problem there. As I drove
home on friday the light
came on at lower speeds until it appeared at 140km/h
(crusing speed here). I
went into the next gas station and got a bottle just to
be sure I have enough
oil in the pan. I let the car idle for 2 minutes and then
checked the oil
level. Nothing, nada, niente, empty ! I've checked what I could
see through
the oil cap hole and saw enough (damn hot) oil around. I filled the
litre in
and got close to the 3/4 mark on the stick ! No light the rest of
the
way.
Yesterday, I made some miles and also speeded up a hill.
Tataaaa, the light came
on again. I went home and filled up with 10W-60
Racing oil from Castrol. This
because the mechanic at Digit Power told me
earlier that this is the fluid they
highly recommend for our high temp
cars... espcially when the power is cranked
up. For winter use it's good to
have a good cold start oil and that's why I
decided to "mix" the stuff. I
went for a ride, heated the engine up as good as
possible and made the hill
tests. No problem since then :)
Well, the question arises if the
oil-level switch also does anything else than
measure the oil level. I don't
think it is related to the oil temperature but
who knows. Also I doubt that
it is related to the oil pressure as the meter
always showed a higher but
good pressure on the autobahn. For me, my experiences
are that oils with
0W-40 are somewhat too thin for our cars when getting into
hard high temp
conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for our cars but
not so great
for winter conditions.
Finally, a wide range seems to be better, say
5W-50 or so (I think Mobil 1 has
one) but I'll use the 10W-60 in the summer
and mix it with the 5W-40 in the
winter as Castrol does not have a high range
fluid. For me it currently works
good and it seems that the new stuff in the
engine lowered the ticking sound as
well.
Regards to
all,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:05:01 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Fuel pump question
Roger,
I suggest contacting Road Race
Engineering (RRE) at
mailto:sales@roadraceengineering.com
specifying the part number and color of
the cap on the pump. Sometimes
they are slow at responding so bug them
a
little.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I'm still in the GT &%ç research thing and
nearly fall over the
> fuel pump I got
> from Brian. It is a Nippon
Denso pump with the description 5T11
> and the number
>
195130-1020.
>
> Can someone please verify what kind of pump this is
and how much
> it flows ?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:08:44 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil survey (was: Little oil survey on our cars)
- -----Original
Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent:
Sunday, December 20, 1998 9:35 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Little oil survey on our cars / oil level
<snip>
Regards
to all,
Roger
=================================
Roger...
The
subject line of your e-mail indicates a survey, which is a good idea.
I'll
collect the data and republish to the group after two weeks.
Anyone
interested in participating is welcome. Here's the questions I
propose, just
replace my data with yours:
1. Vehicle: 1995 VR4
2.
Oil weight: 5-50w
3. Oil brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
4. Filter
brand: OEM
5. Additives: None
6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or six
months
7. Observations: I changed from fossil oil to synthetic when
I
purchased the car 18 months ago. Aside from what I believe is a
"normal"
lifter tick (goes away at any rpm above 1500), I've had no problems.
I've
tried a number of additives over the years, and can't say I've noticed
any
improvement or degradation in performance. I will point out, that with
old
V8 beaters, STP oil treatment adds enough extra viscosity to prevent
oil
slipping around worn rings and valves (symptom - blue smoke out
the
exhaust). I've never had the oil light come on (as Roger described), but
my
opportunities to drive above 100mph are limited.
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:26:55 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil survey (was: Little oil survey on our cars)
>
Chris...submission
>
> 1.
Vehicle:
1992 Stealth TT
> 2. Oil
weight: 10-30w
> 3.
Oil brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand:
Mitsu, Fram, etc.
> 5.
Additives: None now
(Slick 50 for 4 changes)
> 6. Change frequency: Every 3K
miles or six months
> 7.
Observations:
Synthetic Mobil 1 is used exclusively, (I was informed
> the initial
breakin period of 1000 kms was done on Quaker fossil.) No problems
noted
> with exception of standard ticking, which has been alleviated for
some time by using
> an oil flush (Gunk) at last oil change. Little
opportunity exists here to drive at
> high speeds for any lenght of time.
Were that availed perhaps a 5-50 or 5-60 might be
> the choice I would
option. 10-30, however has been just fine, with 5-30 used if winter
> is
colder than normal, here on the mild west coast. Oh, just over 40,000 kms on
the
> car.
Darcy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:07:23 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil survey
Thanks Chris .)
> 1.
Vehicle:
1993 VR4 (Euro Version)
> 2. Oil
weight: 5W-40 /
10W-60
> 3. Oil
brand: Castrol RS
(synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand:
Mitsu
> 5.
Additives: none now
(Slick 50, Ceramica in the first 2 years)
> 6. Change
frequency: Every 5K - 7.5k km
> 7.
Observations:
> Car came
with 10W-40 from Castrol and I used over the years until 5W-40 came
> out.
I also used Slick 50 and Ceramica snake oil and I cannot say if it did
>
anything good. At least it did nothing bad as the parts looked very good
>
when inspected during the rebuild. No deposits nor any expected wear.
>
Had the oil light comming on with 0W-40 Mobil 1 at very high speeds
(+150)
> and also with 5W-40 as the peisons were gone. With 10W-60 (or
mixed with
> 5W-40 in winter) the problem dissapeared. Castrol 10W-60 is
recommended by
> the local tuning shop that prepares Porsche TwinTurbos.
Ticking noise is also
> better with the "thicker" oil.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:11:26 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil survey/ oil level
R.G. wrote:
> 1 year ago went
Mobil 0W-40 for best cold start protection
> but then often getting
oil-level light, especially speed >150mph driving
> up hill. I lifted
throttle, light went off. Checking warm oil level showed 1/2-3/4 between
>
marks. Back to Castrol 5W-40 never got problem again
> until
compression problem started to get worse.
> Before rebuild ran car over
its limit, killed three pistons
> 4 rings. After rebuild still oil
around but no oil steam coming out BOV anymore.
> As this happend oil
level light came on often at speed >130mph.
> During rebuild exchanged
oil level switch. Last week at
> 150mph light came on again;
oil level night before 3/4.
> light came on at lower speeds until it
appeared at 140km/h. I went into gas station,
> let car idle 2 minutes,
then oil level checked empty! I looked
> through oil cap hole, saw enough
oil. I filled a litre, got 3/4 mark on stick!
> Yesterday, speeded up
hill, light came on. Filled 10W-60 Racing Castrol, heated engine
good
> made the hill tests. No problem since then :) Question:
if oil-level switch does anything else than
> measure oil level. I doubt
related to oil pressure as meter
> always showed higher good pressure on
autobahn. My experiences
> are that 0W-40 are too thin for our cars
when
> hard high temp conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for
our cars but
> not so great for winter condition. Wide range seems
better, say 5W-50 (I think Mobil 1 has
> one) but I'll use 10W-60 in
summer, mix 5W-40 winter as Castrol doesn't have high range fluid.
> New
stuff in engine lowered ticking sound.
> Roger
Roger:
The oil
level switch COULD still reflect oil pressure; if oil in pan is
very low, and
pump is intermittently suckng air (oil pressure near zero
transiently) the
oil pressure GUAGE won't reflect this well because it
has such a slow rate of
change; needle takes awhile to get to new
values. This is like a gas
guage on some cars, which change SLOWLY so
as not to alarm people with
transient changes due to hills changing
angle of fuel in tank etc but give a
time-average value. The oil LIGHT
may reflect instant values, and could
have sensitivity to pick up very
transient oil pressure loss such as one sees
with oilpan near-empty.
I don't know if it is tied into oil
pressure, though. Sounds like you
are pumping alot of oil to the top
end of the motor (valvecovers), and
getting caught up in crank windage at
sustained high speeds. You could
consider 1) having a deeper oilpan
made up, and extending the oil pump
pickup downward to suck off the deeper
sump. Making about 2" (50mm)
deeper would hold another liter or more,
and could solve your problem.
MUCH deeper makes the pump have to suck up
against more of a vacuum
drawing the oil up, so I would not go TOO
deep. Since you are so
serious about your car, and do alot of highspeed
driving, this would be
the best way. Alternatives (not as good but
functional) would include
2) an oil pressure reservoir, that will send
pressurized oil into system
anytime pressure drops/sucks air (commercially
available) but this means
YOU STILL SUCK AIR; and 3) overfilling the
crankcase (Full mark plus
1/4-1/2 more or so). This works and can be
fine; if indeed your oil
level is below zero/causing oil level light WHEN
DRIVING, then clearly
the crankcase is NOT OVERFULL AT SPEED, so overfilling
AT STOP would NOT
mean the crank is plowing through crankcase oil way way up
when
driving--the oil is someplace you have no control over and
must
compensate for by overfilling AT REST.
I agree with heavier oil
for heavy load driving. I have always used
Mobil 1 15W50 all year round
including Wisconsin winters; no problems
with bearings etc. Synthetics
flow way better, even a 15W synthetic
flows better than a 10W standard in
supercold.
Hope this gives some ideas!
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:39:34 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil survey - revised
Howdy folks...
Darc made a good point
that could affect the data, so I added another field
for "current
mileage".
THANKS!!!
=======================================
1.
Vehicle: 1995 VR4
2. Current mileage: 35K
2. Oil weight: 5-50w
3. Oil
brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
4. Filter brand: OEM
5. Additives:
None
6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or six months
7. Observations:
========================================
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:37:58 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Exhaust Fumes
For everyone who's running straight exhausts, and
perhaps EGR's blocked
off... Is your exhaust smell exceptionally noxious?
I've noticed mines
is getting to be particularly noxious compared to some
other straight
flowing exhausts, that I've done.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:43:29 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Exhaust Fumes
- -----Original Message-----
From: RPM
Motorsports [mailto:rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net]
Sent:
Sunday, December 20, 1998 10:38 AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
Fumes
For everyone who's running straight exhausts, and perhaps EGR's
blocked
off... Is your exhaust smell exceptionally noxious? I've noticed
mines
is getting to be particularly noxious compared to some other
straight
flowing exhausts, that I've
done.
==================================
Rumor had it that a catless
system would smell like rotten eggs. I still
have my precats, but I'm running
a straight 3" all the way to the bumper. No
unusual odors at this
point.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride
with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:41:47 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: AWD on ice
Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the
snow cause more of the
sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of tires
behind snow, the
skinnier the tire, the better it runs on snow due less area
on ice?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:49:49 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shifter alignment
I've found that the best shifter feeling to
me in my 1991 is to switch a
94 shifter into the car and cut the bottom of
the shifter off. and
reweld the eyelet a little higher to the same location
as the stock 91
shifter. There is actually a difference between the 91-93 and
94+
shifters. The 91's are stupendously high as compared to the 94's,
but
the 94's have a longer shaft at the bottom. Is the 94 chassis
lower
below the shifter?? I tried straight swapping the 94 shifter and I
found
that it would go into all the gears except 2nd, where it would clunk
and
not go it. I found this problem to be that the 94 has a longer base
on
the shifter, which actually hits the chassis, specifically where
the
chassis creates a groove for the shifter to go through. If you
look
underneath the shifter, it looks like there's a indentation for
the
shifter to go through when you shift into second. But once I
swapped
shifters, I had much shorter height without the close pattern of a
short
shifter. 2nd gear didn't seem as clunky, but I still don't
understand
why, the cable throw shouldn't be different.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:57:11 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil survey - revised
1.
Vehicle:
1993 VR4
2. Current mileage: 49,000
3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
5. Filter brand:
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 3K miles
8.
Observations: No problems. Very
little to no prob with lifter
tick. Stands up to hard
use.
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:59:23 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Fuel cut
Well, it's finally happened. The last couple days we've
had BEAUTIFUL
weather here in the PNW, so Beastie has been out from under
cover. Having
just finished the exhaust a few weeks ago, along with a BOV
and
bored/polished throttle body, I have better flow than ever before.
The
turbos spool quickly and stay there longer. Now, for the first time
ever,
I've had that "wonderful" fuel cut experience. You folks are correct,
nearly
slammed my head into the steering wheel. The engine recovers quickly,
but
this is NOT a good thing under WOT (or race) conditions. A couple
questions
for those who've already been here:
1. Will replacing my
injectors and fuel pump solve this?
2. What's the value of a "fuel cut
defencer" device?
3. I know there's been debate about the various devices
that can be run in
line with the stock ECU, but I noticed (in the last issue
of Max Speed) that
Jet Industries will now remap the stock ECU to accommodate
the specific mods
that I have. While this isn't cheap ($600) it's less
expensive than some of
the other options. Clearly the drawback is that it's a
one time thing, no
adjustment unless it's reprogrammed again. Not ideal for
the tuner who wants
to play with the settings, but if they can optimize, it
would be good for
those who don't want to tweak regularly. Has anyone given
them a try
recently? Ideas? Opinions?
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:25:33 -0600
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Fuel cut
Chris Winkley wrote: [snips]
> finished exhaust, BOV,
bored/polished throttle body, better flow than ever.
> turbos spool
quickly, stay longer. For the first time,
> I've had fuel cut,
nearly slammed my head into steering wheel. engine recovers quickly, but
>
this NOT good under WOT. questions:
> 1. Will replacing my injectors and
fuel pump solve this?
No. Fuel pump has absolutely NOTHING TO DO
with fuelcut. Is however a
wise investment if going faster than
fuelcut-zone. Injectors alone will
just richen up mix, car will still
fuelcut but will be richer doing it
and run like crap because you have not
altered the endproduct of fuel
management programming to compensate for the
larger injectors.
> 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut defencer"
device?
Don't know. IF it worked might be relatively poor band-aid
(leanout).
> 3. various devices that can be run inline with stock ECU;
last issue of Max Speed
> Jet Industries will remap stock ECU to
accommodate specific mods
> I have $600; less expensive than some other
options. Clear drawback: one time thing, no
> adjustment unless
reprogrammed again. Not ideal for tuner who wants
> settings, but if they
optimize, would be good for
> those who don't want to tweak. Has anyone
given them a try recently?
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
With '95
you "can't use" a VPC (in quotes because no one has said how
and printed it,
but I am pretty sure it could be used...different wiring
harness is issue,
but only 3 or 4 wires need to be intercepted/tapped
into.)
I have
heard through history that Jet Industries just puts some sticker
on the stock
computer box, gives you a couple additional parts which
essentially vent the
wastegate line some like a bleeder valve so higher
boost, thus better
performance; charging exorbitant fee while ACTING
like they hacked into your
computer which they did NOT. Whether they
just "got religion" and
suddenly are reputable, hired a computer whiz,
and now TRULY, REALLY,
check-really-IS-in-the-mail-THIStime _DO_ do a
real and worthwhile COMPUTER
mod is the question. Dunno. Don't wanna
try, myself...
For
94+ the Apexi AFC will work. Best technique is to get 550cc
injectors
(or 720's will work with VPC+GCC if 91-93; 720 might work with
AFC), because
you fool the computer into thinking you are flowing less
and less air, the
larger the injectors you use and the more you "lean
out" the VPC/GCC or the
APexi AFC to compensate for the larger
injectors. I have never fuelcut
with VPC/GCC/720cc injectors. With
550's it was almost
never.
TRE MASC also works/worked, but apparently they are not truly
in
business anymore...?
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:43:38 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: AWD on ice
> Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the
snow cause more of the
> sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of
tires behind snow, the
> skinnier the tire, the better it runs on snow due
less area on ice?
In fact the smaller the tire the better traction in
snow. But on ice the story
is different and the wideness of the tire doesn't
play a lot in that case. The
thread design and the rubber plays a more
important rule. On another hand the
wider the tire the larger the area each
tire has contact to the surface.
Therefore the force (pounds per square-inch)
is samller and the tire tends more
to "slide". This is theoretical stuff but
when you go to a prepared sliding
track you'll have to feel in your back
what's going on :)
Roger,
icey-Switzerland
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:21:33 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel cut
Jack said everything and I add just my (bad) experiences
here.
First, what are all the mods you're having now and what fuel do you
run ?
I guess you've pushed boost up to around 1.2bars and plus. Fuel cut
appears when
the ECU jumps off its internal fuel map. Before this you'll
normally feel a
hesitation as it retards the timing when some of the fuel
values go out of the
map (timing is retarded when knock appears!!). On my car
fuel cut appeared at
1.25bars but some hesitation was feelable around
1.22bars peak. Therefore I'm
very sure you'll also have bad knock around
!
> > 1. Will replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve
this?
Jack said it all :)
> > 2. What's the value of a "fuel
cut defencer" device?
No, we don't have a "fuel cut defencer" device like
those for the Toyotas (MR2,
Supras). These cars do have a boost pressure
sensor that reads real values and
uses the signal in the ECU. This can be
tweaked by thinking the ECU that there's
less boost. The same way can be done
like Jack described for the Apexi AFC. I
got it because I thought it is a
good idea to increase fuel where the fuel-cut
appeard. WRONG, because the
fuel cut is related to knock and maxing out the
injectors. After installing
the AFC I was able to lean the mixture out and
fuel-cut disappeard. Of course
it did as I tweaked the ECU thinking that there's
less air and therefore less
fuel is given. As I did not install larger injectors
I ran into the danger
that the mixture was too lean. On the dyno we runned the
car under full load
at 5600 where fuel cut appeared and we were able to lean it
out but were
still in the safe area. So I thought I'm fine ...
.. until we found out
where knock appeard ! We had to reduce boost to 1.05bars
to prevent knock and
therefore any fuel-cut defencing is not necessary anymore.
I therefore
highly recommend to check this are because an engine rebuild will be
your
next step. Just adding too much fuel to cool down the combustion chamber
may
help but does not solve the knock problem. Higher boost simply also
means
higher octane level !
For the Jet thing they have a very bad
reputation like Jack said. The ECU
program can only be changed by adding
another dautherboard and EPROMS. Then the
program can be altered. There's
also a guy in Australia that says he does
something to the ECU and for only
around Aussie$ 800. Well nobody really knows
as these guys of course do not
tell the trick. I've got the G-Force ECU with the
dautherboard and it's
really alot of work. You can get it for around $850 but
still does not cure
your knock thing.
> I have never fuelcut with VPC/GCC/720cc
injectors. With
> 550's it was almost never.
Of course, Jack
runned racing gas or used octane booster. Another thing that
helps to prevent
knock is to reduce backpressure in the exhaust manifold that is
caused by the
turbos.
Just don't go the risky way as I did ! you can find the pics of
my rebuild the
proken pistons on my website.
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:00:02 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Revised Oil Survey
All:
My 2 hp's worth
....
=======================================
1.
Vehicle:
1994 R/T
2. Current mileage: 72K
3. Oil
weight: 10-40w (Dino)
Since birth
4. Oil
brand: Quaker
5.
Filter brand: OEM/Fram every other oil
change
6.
Additives:
Absolutely None
7. Change frequency: Every 2.5K miles
8.
Observations: Lifter tick only when car sits for more than
4-5 days without
being driven. Always goes
away after the first mile or so of
driving.
Came up short at one oil change by almost a
1/2 quart.
Found an undertightened oil filter
caused the problem (followed the streak to
the
source).
Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:35:15 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: HKS SBOV setting
I just feel that the BOV opens too early. I've
turned the screw in (nut fully
yet) but it didn't changed a lot.
The
beahivour is that I normally drive around and shift normally, the thing
works
good. But with cruise control on ,when the throttle is open and goes
to
almost closing, it just feels like a short misfire then. This means when
the
trottle will be closed (not fully) slowely then everything is fine. But
doing
this more quickly (as the cruise control does) it feels like something
hit me.
For me the BOV opens to fast at a very low difference, releasing some
boost and
then closes immediatly causing the boost comming back. Does anyone
have a good
way how to set the BOV correctly ??
Thanks, Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:16:25 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil Survey
These are the specs
1.
Vehicle:
1993 3KGT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 200 (since
rebuild)
3. Oil weight:
10-40w (Dino) Valvoline
4. Oil
brand:
Valvoline
5. Filter brand:
Purolator
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 1st change after 150 miles
8.
Observations: No oil loss. Oil in I/C subsystem seems to have dried
up.
After about 2000 miles, I will change to my regular old Mobil-1
15W50.
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 14:27:12 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil survey
1.
Vehicle:
1994 VR4
2. Current mileage: 34,000 (6k
miles of ownership)
3. Oil
weight:
10W-30
4. Oil
brand:
Mobil 1 Synthetic
5. Filter
brand:
OEM
6.
Additives:
None (about to try some Gunk)
7. Change frequency: Every 3K miles (3
changes so far)
8.
Observations: Little to no
lifter tick. When it arises, it
usually
goes away after a short warmup and slight
blip
of the throttle. The other day it was ticking
quite
a bit, but it went away when I opened the hood!
Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 14:27:17 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: shifter alignment
Ron-a-roid wrote:
> Is there any
possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a possible cause of
>
some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in the feel of
the
> engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in
3rd [snip]
I just recently read somewhere that our cars use a
cable-operated
shifter. Is this true? Does this bear any
significance to the problem
at hand? I have heard people complain that
the cable operation is
a weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our
car doesn't
use one. What is the (superior?) alternative in other
sports cars?
Happy Holidays!
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:23:30 -0600
From: "Steven A. File" <sfile@usa.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil
Survey
Here's both of my cars:
1.
Vehicle:
1997 3KGT VR-4 (pure stock)
2. Current mileage:
5850
3. Oil weight:
10-30w
4. Oil
brand: Mobil One
(Synthetic)
5. Filter brand: Mitsu
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every four months
8.
Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 500 miles to
Castrol
10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Have had car
since new,
bought August 1997. Valve tapping noise until changed to Mobil
One. Air
conditioner compressor replaced last October due to clicking noise
that
sounded a lot like lifter tapping--helped dramatically (see below). Took
car
on its first overnight road trip this weekend (about 350 miles) and got
36
miles per gallon of gasoline (no air conditioning) averaging 85 mph on
open
road. Car driven only on sunny weekends.
1.
Vehicle:
1998 3KGT SOHC
2. Current mileage: 28,950
3. Oil
weight: 10-30w
4. Oil
brand: Mobil One
(Synthetic)
5. Filter brand: Mitsu
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 5,000 miles or two
months
8. Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 525 miles to
Castrol
10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Valve lifters
replaced
at 2100 miles last March due to excessive noise--was later found to
be the
air conditioner compressor clutch making a clicking noise whenever the
air
was turned off. Have had car since new, bought December 1997. Slight
valve
tapping noise until changed to Mobil One. Daily
driver.
Steve File
mailto:sfile@usa.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:27:19 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: Team3S:
OT: 550 Maranello
I just got back from a driving my friend's newly
acquired 550 Maranello.
There are no words that I can put together to
adequately describe this car.
All I can say is "Wow", "Sweet", and "Thank you
Mr. Ferrari".
I am ruined for
life.
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:32:54 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
shifter alignment
Our cars use a cable operated shifter.
They are
beefy cables though. The real problem in my opinion, or at least
part
of it, is the play in the bushings at the cable attachment points.
There is
simply too much play. A good Saturday morning project would be to
find
appropriately sized bushing and hand cut them to fit the shifter
assembly
perfectly. I'd bet this would greatly reduce the slop in
the
shifter. I plan to do this to mine within the next month or
so.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Ron-a-roid wrote:
>
> > Is there any
possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
> possible cause of
>
> some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in
>
the feel of the
> > engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4,
especially in 3rd [snip]
>
> I just recently read
somewhere that our cars use a cable-operated
> shifter. Is this
true? Does this bear any significance to the problem
> at
hand? I have heard people complain that the cable operation is
> a
weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our car doesn't
> use
one. What is the (superior?) alternative in other sports
cars?
>
> Happy Holidays!
>
> --Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:51:05 PST
From: "Zentelis none" <zentelis@hotmail.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Happy Holidrives
Happy Holidays to everyone :)
Santa still
hasn't gotten back to me about my Stealth
oh, if no one minds a question
from an amature, on a Twin Turbo, is an
intercooler recquired for each turbo
kits?
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:28:20 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 68,000
3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: Fram
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations:
Will start ticking at around the 3000
Mile mark. But is much quieter than
with 10W-30
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:30:45 EST
From: VR4Power@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re:
Team3S: Oil Survey
In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM, you
wrote:
<<1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 68,000
3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: Fram
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations:
Will start ticking at around the 3000
Mile mark. But is much quieter than
with 10W-30>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 02:11:12 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
><1.
Vehicle:
1992 Stealth R/T TT
> 2. Current mileage:
72,900
> 3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand:
Mitsu
> 6.
Additives: Fuel
Additive: Redline SI-1 good for 5 tanks of gas. But once every 3000 miles
I use one bottle for one tank of gas. I hope to clear valve
sediments.
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations: Almost no ticking.
Only when cold and almost unaudible.
> Mile mark. But is much quieter than
with when I got it at 64,000 miles.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:36:01 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Oil Survey
1.
Vehicle:
1994 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 63,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: OEM
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations: Period ticking,
especially nearing oil change. Just
tore down the engine. Cross
hatch still on cylinder walls. All bearings
and mating/thrust surfaces
in perfect condition. Zero coking in oil return
lines.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:43:36 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil survey - revised
1.
Vehicle:
1994 Stealth NT
2. Current mileage: 17,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
5. Filter brand:
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 3.5K miles
8.
Observations: Lifter tick driving home
from showroom; crankcase
was 1/2 qt low and tick lessened when it was topped
off, but continued
through break-in. Changed to Mobil 1 at 500 miles,
and tick disappeared was
never repeated. No oil burned ever, but went
through ~1/2 QT once running
at 120+ for about an hour...
Merry
Christmas, Folks!
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 07:29:11 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM Eastern Standard
Time,
rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net
writes:
<< 1.
Vehicle: 1991 3000GT
VR-4
2. Current mileage: 117500 (First 80K by prior owner)
3.
Oil weight:
10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil
1
5. Filter brand:
Factory
6.
Additives: None
(Have used Marvel Mystery Oil)
7. Change frequency:
3000 Miles
8. Observations: >> Runs very well
Arty 91
VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 08:10:09 EST
From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil Survey
1) Vehicle: 1992 Stealth TT
2) Mileage: 59,000 Miles
3)
Oil Weight: 10w-30
4) Oil Brand: Mobil 1
5) Filter Brand: OEM
6)
Additives: None
7) Change Frequency: 3,000 Miles
8) Observations: No
lifter ticking. They were replaced at 48,000
miles under extended warranty due to tick.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:10:55 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
1.
Vehicle:
92 RT/Turbo
2. Current mileage: 72,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Redline
5.
Filter brand: Mits OEM
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3-5K Miles
8.
Observations:
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 08:23:45 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil Survey
Just had to reply ...sounds like a new engine Barry,
dispite the teeney weeney problem
: )
Darc
Barry E. King
wrote:
> 1.
Vehicle:
1994 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:
63,000
> 3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand: OEM
>
6. Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations: Period ticking,
especially nearing oil change. Just
> tore down the engine.
Cross hatch still on cylinder walls. All bearings
> and
mating/thrust surfaces in perfect condition. Zero coking in oil
return
> lines.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #53
***************************
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