--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #51
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Friday, December 18 1998        Volume 01 : Number 051




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 20:39:03 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Testing

Is this list working?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 19:05:13 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Testing

Sure is...

Welcome RPM... We just don't make any noise unless there's something to say
about our cars...  If you want to catch up, there are a ton of archives on
our temp web page (URL below).

Glad to have you with us!

Forrest

- -----Original Message-----
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, December 17, 1998 5:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Testing


|Is this list working?
|
|For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
|


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 21:27:10 -0500
From: Brian <bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poss. shop(reply)

>  If you need some practice, I'd be glad to volunteer! --
>-Jeff Crabtree
>    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
>          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport

Me too.  I would love to take my car to s shop that knows MY car.  If your
gunna do well though you'll have to do all cars ... but that doesn't mean
you can't be a Well Know Tuner of Mits and Toyota's.

One other tip... Don't rag on the cars people bring in.  Have the owner
take you for a preformance test drive. Makes him fell better and the
liabilty off you.




93 VR-4
# 0007
Tampa/Orlando FL

"He who laughs last ... thinks slowest"

______________________________________
Email Brian_Danley@parsons.com
bcdmad@concentric.net

Homepage http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
______________________________________
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 00:22:25 -0500
From: "Ron-a-roid" <rtetetet@email.msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: shifter alignment

Is there any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a possible cause of
 some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in the feel of the
 engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd where if you
exert
 a small amount of rearward pressure, you can feel the gears not fully
 engaged. It almost wants to pop out of gear. Have you fooled with shifter
 adjustment in your cars to any point?
 Ron




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Feb 1998 07:30:54 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poss. shop(reply)

How about guaranteed work?  I try to avoid the dealer like the plague,
but the one thing they DO offer is a limited warantee, usually a
year/10,000 miles.  When you're talking about the timing belt, clutch,
brakes, or any other major work, I usually think twice before going to
an independent shop for just this reason.  Of course in the case of GT
Alley, had they done any work to my car, a warantee woulnd't mean
anything now that they're defunct...

Also, I second the notion of a good web page (with PRICES) and would add
responsive Email feedback (I'm not going to call the States from
Germany) and fast shipping to the list.

Good luck!
-Jim
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:34:32 -0800
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Possible new shop

Brad,

You are certainly getting a wealth of useful advice.  I have
only a couple small suggestions to add:

1)  Establish a solid presence at the local import track events.
In other words, put together some fast cars that agree to be
sponsored by your shop.  This always gains my respect.  It
will also contribute to the "word-of-mouth" effect, as well as
make for good advertising material.

2)  Set up a bulletin board for used parts.  Just make sure to
have a disclaimer for any liability for sales/trades made between
customers.

3)  One word:  Cleanandopenparkingspace.  There are a couple
shops that I ~never~ go to because the parking is a joke.

Good luck!

- --Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 07:30:09 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: shifter alignment

Yes!  I have the same unsure feeling in mine.  I spent some time looking at
it the other day and came to the realization that the shift knob ends up in
the same position in 4th as it is in 2nd.  When I put it in 4th, the knob
returns to the 2nd gear position.  No wonder I have difficulty getting into
4th during more "spirited" driving!  The same thing, to a lesser extent, is
true with 1st and 3rd.  A shorter throw would exacerbate the problem.  I'm
thinking about going back to the stock shifter.

I have not fooled with the shifter adjustment, although there *are* a couple
of turnbuckles that allow you to adjust the overall length of the cables.

- -Bob

> Is there any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
possible cause of some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident
in the feel of the engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd
where if you exert a small amount of rearward pressure, you can feel the
gears not fully engaged. It almost wants to pop out of gear. Have you fooled
with shifter adjustment in your cars to any point?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 07:28:39 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: shifter alignment

Bob, Ron, et all;

Perhaps feedback to Chrysler or Getrag might be in order on this. I have noticed less
than optimal shifting with mine from the outset, but assumed it was standard without
questioning possible long term effects. Jack, do you still have an avenue with Getrag to
send feedback??

Darc

Bob Fontana wrote:

> Yes!  I have the same unsure feeling in mine.  I spent some time looking at
> it the other day and came to the realization that the shift knob ends up in
> the same position in 4th as it is in 2nd.  When I put it in 4th, the knob
> returns to the 2nd gear position.  No wonder I have difficulty getting into
> 4th during more "spirited" driving!  The same thing, to a lesser extent, is
> true with 1st and 3rd.  A shorter throw would exacerbate the problem.  I'm
> thinking about going back to the stock shifter.
>
> I have not fooled with the shifter adjustment, although there *are* a couple
> of turnbuckles that allow you to adjust the overall length of the cables.
>
> -Bob
>
> > Is there any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
> possible cause of some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident
> in the feel of the engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd
> where if you exert a small amount of rearward pressure, you can feel the
> gears not fully engaged. It almost wants to pop out of gear. Have you fooled
> with shifter adjustment in your cars to any point?
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 19:16:18 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: battery

Quick question...

My headlights are noticably dimmer at idle.  If I blip the throttle,
they brighten up and then gradually dim back down.  The car still turns
over nice and strong, but I can't help but wonder if my original 1994
battery is on its last legs.  I'm also wondering how much of a role the
battery plays at high-rpm driving.  If my battery is weak, is it causing
weak spark and robbing the engine of power?  This was the case on my old
crotch rocket and I'm curious if the same is true in this case.
Finally, batteries were discussed in some recent posts.  I'd appreciate
suggestions on what I should look into if it is in fact time to replace
mine.  Thanx!

-Jim

P.S.- The "black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here.  Time to take
it easy for a while...
- --
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 13:25:52 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible new shop

A lot of good points have already been mentioned, I figure I'll toss out
another idea or two, along with some honest opinions on my two favorite
shops:

- - What draws me is proof that the shop *knows* my car. I go to Extreme
Motorsprts because they're one of the two best DSM tuners in the country,
and they also specialize in the 3000GT which is a similar car. I like Nexus
becuase I've seen Mike Ma's project VR-4 there. So if a customer comes in
with a 3S or DSM, show them your car - your knowledge of the car and
excitement for it will help build trust with the customer. Similarly, if
someone brings you an MR2, have a notebook of pics of your old MR2 and its
mods to show them.


- - The only people I want working on my car are ones who *care* about it. I'm
sure the mechanics at Extreme Motorsports are much more experienced and
knowledgable than the guys at Nexus Motorsports. But I still prefer taking
my car to Nexus because they care about my vehicle and treat it right. At
Extreme, they've got a couple guys who are way overzealous with the airgun,
if you know what I mean.


- - When you're starting up a shop, offer people amazing deals. Work for free
if necessary. Your first couple of clients will be the most important in
spreading the word around that your shop even exists. I think Chien did an
amazing job getting Nexus off the ground - he worked with several local
people off the starnet list, offerring amazing prices. He showed up at the
Gathering with K&N's at a price so low he sold a massive pile of them in
minutes. And people spread the word for him very quickly. When he first
opened his doors, business was slow, because few people knew about his shop.
But he offered some great deals to get the word out, and within months, he
was booked solid.


- - Organize events. Hold a Texas Gathering at your shop. Work with local
clubs and organizations. Organize trips to dragstrips and speedways.
Promote, promote, promote. The first big hurdle is to get the word out that
you exist. Once people know you've got a shop, they'll start checking you
out - the second step is convincing them of your quality.


Best of luck!

     -Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:32:41 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery

>
>
> My headlights are noticably dimmer at idle.  If I blip the throttle,
> they brighten up and then gradually dim back down.  The car still turns
> over nice and strong, but I can't help but wonder if my original 1994
> battery is on its last legs.

Jim, this sounds as if it might be alternator rather than battery. My battery just
wouldn't hold much of a charge when it was on it's last legs, and if I let the car sit a
few days, it wouldn't be able to turn it over. In other vehicles, I have found that
dimming of headlights usually involved the charging system (alternator) which in turn
led to battery failure/discarge. Have that checked as well. As for batteries...I went
with the NASCAR heavy duty sucker (heavier plates etc) and so far it has been absolutely
great...made for race cars!

Best

Darc

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:45:45 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poss. shop(reply)

My 2 HP:

I do not mind paying a premium hourly rate if the quality and expertise
deserve it.  However, I expect that that expertise will allow the job to
be done quicker than the "book" estimate and with higher quality.  One
thing I can't stand is getting a book quote for X hours, they spend X/2
hours performing the job, but they still bill me for X hours.  I'd
rather pay a higher hourly rate for actual hours worked than pay any
rate for hours not actually worked. I don't like getting reamed.  I
respect fairness and honesty above all else.  A close second for me is
quality.
- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:52:59 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery

Jim, maybe you remember that my 1993 battery just died two weeks ago. The lights
never got dimmed but it was much harder to get the car running from day to day
(over 3 days until 0 !). The battery was charged by 3/4 but making a test with
80Amps load the voltage dropped below 6 Volts ... eof ! My dealer did the test
and since I have the new Fortis batt (damn expensive here !) I've no problems
anymore ;-)

> P.S.- The "black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here.  Time to take
> it easy for a while...

Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ... but in turns, whooo !

Cheers, Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:21:20 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: Team3S: AWD on ice

Hi,

> > P.S.- The "black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here.  Time to take
> > it easy for a while...
>
> Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ... but in turns, whooo !

What do you mean by that Roger?  AWD is good on ice?

I was in New Jersey a couple of winters ago.  I had Goodyear GSC 275x40x17
tires.  They absolutely STUNK on snow and ice.  Even at 10 MPH, if I lightly
applied the brakes, the car would slide for 50 or 60 yards.  Lucky I didn't
crash into anything or end up in the ditch.  I assume that I needed snow
radials?  Driving lessons?

- -Bob

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 13:35:10 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: battery

Jim...

My experience has been that dim lights at idle (that come back up under
throttle) is related to the battery. It can also be related to the charging
system, but that should be less likely. One way is to check the voltage
going to the battery. Should be at least 13.5 vdc. Another way is the old
fashioned acid tester that you can buy at most parts stores for a couple
bucks. Most effective is a diagnostic check by a battery shop. The can tell
you if it's the plates, the electrolyte, or the charging system.

BTW...the FIRST thing I do is pull the cables and clean the terminals. You'd
be surprised how many times the problem is caused by corrosion between the
two surfaces.

Now, as for the battery, I just put in a Predator dry cell battery (thanks
to Hau). It weighs less than 10 pounds, takes up less than half the space of
the stock battery and is maintenance free. If you need some extra real
estate under the hood, think about this option.

Looking forward...Chris

"Friends don't let friends ride with me"

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent: Friday, December 18, 1998 10:16 AM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: battery

Quick question...

My headlights are noticably dimmer at idle.  If I blip the throttle,
they brighten up and then gradually dim back down.  The car still turns
over nice and strong, but I can't help but wonder if my original 1994
battery is on its last legs.  I'm also wondering how much of a role the
battery plays at high-rpm driving.  If my battery is weak, is it causing
weak spark and robbing the engine of power?  This was the case on my old
crotch rocket and I'm curious if the same is true in this case.
Finally, batteries were discussed in some recent posts.  I'd appreciate
suggestions on what I should look into if it is in fact time to replace
mine.  Thanx!

-Jim
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:52:59 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery

Jim, maybe you remember that my 1993 battery just died two weeks ago. The lights
never got dimmed but it was much harder to get the car running from day to day
(over 3 days until 0 !). The battery was charged by 3/4 but making a test with
80Amps load the voltage dropped below 6 Volts ... eof ! My dealer did the test
and since I have the new Fortis batt (damn expensive here !) I've no problems
anymore ;-)

> P.S.- The "black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here.  Time to take
> it easy for a while...

Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ... but in turns, whooo !

Cheers, Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 17:38:03 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: Team3S: Looking for a used VPC

I need a used VPC head unit.  Actually, I just need the main circuit board
if that's all you have.  I was playing around with mine and accidentally
toasted it.

Please RTP.

- -Bob

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 19:37:35 -0500
From: "Bill Miller" <millebi@kw.igs.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on ice

Your problem wasn't your driving. It was your tires. Wide tires are mostly useless on ice
and snow. You need a small contact patch to concentrate the mass of your car for
traction. I use 225/45's in the winter and would go to 205's if I could get reasonable
wheels.

275's I would characterize as "Skiis".

Bill
91 TT "Old Red" -- Just been driven in this year's first icy weather today!

On 18 Dec 98, at 16:21, Bob Fontana wrote:

> Hi,
>
> > > P.S.- The "black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here.  Time to
> > > take it easy for a while...
> >
> > Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ... but in turns, whooo !
>
> What do you mean by that Roger?  AWD is good on ice?
>
> I was in New Jersey a couple of winters ago.  I had Goodyear GSC 275x40x17
> tires.  They absolutely STUNK on snow and ice.  Even at 10 MPH, if I
> lightly applied the brakes, the car would slide for 50 or 60 yards.  Lucky
> I didn't crash into anything or end up in the ditch.  I assume that I
> needed snow radials?  Driving lessons?
>
> -Bob

Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:40:16 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: Team3S list announcement

Howdy folks...

This list, which we've called Team3S, was formed by seven of us who wanted a
list devoted to technical discussions about Mitsubishi 3000GTs and Dodge
Stealths. There's been some question about whether this is an "open" or
"closed" list and whether people can join by invitation only. The answer to
those questions are "open" and "no", respectively.

However, there is a list of rules which were developed by the seven of us.
These rules (and the Team3S archives) can be found at:

http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

Please review the rules. Joining the Team 3SI list indicates acceptance of
these rules and your willingness to abide by them. You may (or may not)
agree with some (or all) of them, but if you want to be part of this list
you have to agree to live by them.

While we are fortunate enough to have collected most of the worlds 3S
technical experts on this list, we have no intention of excluding those who
are new to their vehicles and want to learn more. We merely intend to keep
the signal to noise ratio very high. We don't feel bad if there are only one
or two posts per day, and we don't feel the need to fill the vacuum with
other noise. For those who want to have social discussions, flame wars, or
non-technical 3S discussions, pursue them privately or on another list.

For those of you who may not know the seven of us, we are (in alphabetical
order):

Bob Forrest, Chris Winkley, Darcy Gunnlaugson, Jim Matthews, Mikael Akesson,
Rich LeRoy, and Roger Gerl.

You can call us the List Administrators, the List Moderators, the Moderation
Board, or anything else you'd like. We've been here for three months, have
grown to over eighty subscribers, and we're extremely pleased with the
success of our list. Feel free to invite others to join. Direct them to the
web site that appears at the end of my signature. If you have questions
about this post, please direct them to me privately
(cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com).

THANKS!!!

Looking forward...the Team3S Administrators
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 22:34:57 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery

Hey Jim;

I refected a bit more on the battery question, and am inclined to agree with Chris, and
back off on my initial tact. If the alternator is going it will start to impact on
driving at higher rpm's as well, showing a drain on the battery particulary with night
driving. . It will start showing trouble, however, as you described, at low rpm's.

I'd still check the alternator (and the clean the battery connections), as well as
insure you have a good ground. When my battery  went, it was showing a green charged
"eye", as if it was still good, but would not hold a charge if the car sat two or three
days. This feature is unreliable on the newer batteries.

Darc

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #51
***************************

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