--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #40
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest
Friday, December 4 1998 Volume
01 : Number
040
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 3 Dec 1998 14:31:35 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Relocating the battery
- ----- M.A. wrote: ---------
The way
that Edward did his installation is a nicer looking sollution than
mine but
mine is alot easier to do and can be relocated again to look stock
without
any damage to the interior.
- ---------------------------
Quite true.
Cutting trim, relocating computers and fluid resevoirs, and
drilling
bolt-holes in the body make my solution quite a bit more
permanent.
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 09:12:29 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
Hey Bob,
Congrats to
the great work (I wish I had a shop-like garage, hehe).
> Perfectly
until I blew the front turbo I/C hose off.
With the SBOV from HKS I blew
off the rubber hose that leads to the aluminum
tube where the BOV sits on
several times. Fortunately, it's better access as the
hose in the
front.
> I love the new location of the EGT probe -- tapped directly
into the rear
> exhaust manifold. It now shows 1050F cruising in 5th
gear at around 1800
> RPM. In its previous location, it would muster
only 750 or 800F at that
> speed. So, as I suspected, the turbo does
in fact, cool the exhaust around
> 250 degrees.
Aha, this proofes
the theory. Have you made any pictures of it where you tapped
in and do you
use aftermarket headers and turbos ?
What about a tapped line that allows
to messure the pressure in the manifold
before the turbo. This would be great
for preventing any pre-knock situation as
too much back-pressure can cause
knock and a pressure sensor acts more quick
than an EGT probe. I think I'll
do this on the front one as there is more space
available :)
> Gone
is the evap canister and gone are the 4 hard lines that run from right
>
before the rear turbo to the front of the car. Will it pass emissions
now?
Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do everything
to keep the
intake cool and this would be the first one. Unfortunately,
emmission test must
be done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that
blocking the EGR can kill
the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?).
Comments ?
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 21:33:24 +1100
From: Andrew Clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: Boost increase
Roger, Barry, Darc & all, I finally got the
car back today with the
boost done, an extra 70+ HP & it runs
beatifully.
The boost increase was achieved by altering the frequencies
that
activate the stock solenoid via the ECU & new plugs & fuel
filter were
put in.
The old plugs were worn down on the tips by 0.5mm
& they weren't due to
be changed for another 13000km (8000miles), so they
probably weren't
helping much in that condition.
The car is a 93 & the
stock pressure was peaking at 9 psi, then fading
to 7 psi WOT.
With this
new mod the pressure peaks at 13.5 psi but holds 12 psi at
WOT. So where the
power was begining to drop away at WOT, it now just
keeps on pulling,... I
know there are alot of guys on this list that are
putting out a hell of alot
more power than this, but jeez I cant beleive
the difference it makes to the
car.
The best thing of all is that the car looks totally stock. I'm
even
running the original air box ( with a K&N replacement filament
)which
means I won't loose my factory warrantye because nothing under the
hood
is different. This will also help when I go to sell the car
because
modified cars in Australia ( I suppose its the same everywhere
)are
harder to sell, & I didn't really want to have to remove a whole lot
of
stuff before I sell it,...which I'm not sure I will be able to now or
if
I do I dont know what I'm going to replace it
with!!
Cheers
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 06:06:51 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
> Aha, this proofes the
theory. Have you made any pictures of it
> where you tapped in and do you
use aftermarket headers and turbos ?
Yes, I have a couple of pictures of
it that I will locate and post.
> What about a tapped line that allows
to messure the pressure in
> the manifold before the turbo. This would be
great for preventing any
> pre-knock situation as too much back-pressure
can cause knock and a
> pressure sensor acts more quick than an EGT probe.
I think I'll do
> this on the front one as there is more space available
:)
There shouldn't be too much of a problem doing it. Especially to
the front
header since there is easier access for drilling and
tapping.
Question: Once you determine that you're in a pre-knock condition
based on
excessive back pressure, what action do you intend to take?
Is
this part of a longer-term engine management project?
> Therefore, you
also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> everything to keep the intake
cool and this would be the first one. >
Unfortunately, emmission test must
be done evry two years. Also my
> mechanic told me that blocking the EGR
can kill the rear pre-cat due > to
the hotter gases (huh ?). Comments
?
My EGR pipe was already blocked but I still had all of the hoses
and
solenoid hooked up. I don't see how blocking the EGR will kill the
rear
pre-cat. If you have a rear pre-cat, there will be some pressure
between
the exhaust manifold and the pre-cat. When the EGR valve is
open, some of
that pressure is relieved into the intake manifold. This
only occurs under
vacuum. If the intake manifold is under pressure
(boost) then the EGR valve
is closed so you don't loose boost out your rear
02/EGR housing.
The purpose of the EGR is to recirculate some of the
warmer exhaust gases
back into the intake manifold to assist in cold start
and engine warm-up.
It also serves as an emissions reducer since cold exhaust
is always
fuel-laden. This is what the mechanic is most likely
referring to. When
your motor is cold, the pre-cat isn't hot enough up
the excess fuel in your
exhaust. Unaltered, it gets to the *main*
catalytic converter. The unburnt
fuel in the exhaust wreaks havoc with
the catalyst, destroying it. I'm not
sure how significant a role your
EGR plays in the elimination/reduction of
unburnt fuel.
If you intend
to run with a main cat, then you must keep your pre-cats.
Otherwise, the main
cat will end up damaged from cold starts.
I'll find those pictures of the
EGT probe.
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 12:18:17 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost increase
Hey Andrew,
Glad to hear of the
successful installation and power you got. As you know the
power increase
email me your dyno sheet and I'll post it on my homepage. It
would be very
interesting to see the differencies between your and my car :)
(you can also
FAX it but I guess the quality would be bad then). Or make a copy
of it and
send it to me in exchange to a nice Chocolate bar from
Switrzerland
;-)
> 70+ HP
Simple calculation : 13.5psi -
9psi = 4.5psi -> 70hp / 4.5psi = 15.5hp per psi
Usually you'll get
between 10 - 15hp per psi, depending on the mods. As I added
the bleeder
valve we had a gain of around 14.5hp per psi (13G turbos) therefore,
your's
in the same range.
> The boost increase was achieved by altering the
frequencies that
> activate the stock solenoid via the ECU & new plugs
& fuel filter were
> put in.
Plugs and fuel filter makes sense
but I still don't know what your mechanic
exactly did. I doubt that he
changed ANYTHING in the ECU as this could only be
done by adding a dauther
board to it (cost intensive). The only idea I can think
of is that he added
an electronic circuit between the ECU and the stock solenoid
that then
changes the behaivour of it. The stock solenoid is open, alternates at
one
specific frequency or is closed. These three stages can be easily
detected
and then changed but it makes no sense without a boost sensing
device.
If he changed the ECU then it makes no sense why he didn't
changed the fuel
curve at the same time. Everything sounds a little bit
strange ;-)
> With this new mod the pressure peaks at 13.5 psi but
holds 12 psi at
> WOT.
This is a conservative but very save setting
:)
> The best thing of all is that the car looks totally
stock.
Yes it looks as there MUST be a device (I still believe it's the
$5 bleeder
valve) somewhare mounted. Even with a bleeder valve the car looks
totally stock
as it can be hidden pretty well.
> This will also
help when I go to sell the car because
> modified cars in Australia ( I
suppose its the same everywhere )are
> harder to sell, & I didn't
really want to have to remove a whole lot of
> stuff before I sell
it
Ok, but the bleeder valve is also removed within 5 minutes and onother
15
minutes for the Boost controller and 15 minutes for the K&N replacing
with the
stock box. Really not a big deal. Only the plug wires, but I'd tell
the buyer
that a Wombat have eaten the original ones and the dealer put some
advanced ones
in :)
Andrew, it's necessary that we learn more about
the mod the mechnaic did as it
could sound like a cheap boost controller
solution. I was told the same like you
by the tuning-guy in Switzerland 3
years ago. As I learned more and more about
the car and what a bleeder valve
is I found out that he extremely screwed me as
he only put a bleeder into the
car and sold this mod as a 20% Power Package with
ECU tuning for more than
$1500 !!! He now owes me a lot of dyno sessions :)
Let us
know
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 06:34:03 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: EGT probe pics
For Roger and anyone else interested, there are
pictures of the EGT probe
relocation at:
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r026.jpg
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r027.jpg
-
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:21:14 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
Maybe I'm a little stupid
now... But why does the EGR pipe have to be blocked? Isn't it just to block the
pressure solenoid that opens the valvle? I belive that it's just to block a
vacume hose and get the same result. Right ?? WRONG??
/Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 07:29:59 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
There is a pipe that
attaches to the back of the plenum. It goes into a
separate cavity
inside of the plenum that goes back OUT of the plenum and
into the EGR
valve. The valve then allows/disallows the air to re-enter the
plenum
in the main cavity where your charge air is. Even when the EGR valve
is
closed (not admitting warm air into the intake manifold) such as when the
car
is completely warmed up or under boost, the small cavity is full of
heated
air from the EGR pipe. That ends up heating up your plenum
via
conduction. If you block it off at the flange where the copper pipe
joins
the plenum, that smaller cavity never gets heated since no hot exhaust
will
ever get inside of the plenum.
- -Bob
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Mikael Åkesson
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 7:21 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
>
>
>
Maybe I'm a little stupid now... But why does the EGR pipe have
> to be
blocked? Isn't it just to block the pressure solenoid that
> opens the
valvle? I belive that it's just to block a vacume hose
> and get the same
result. Right ?? WRONG??
>
> /Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
>
>
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 13:37:35 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
Thanks Bob!
I didn't
thought about that stupid routing of the gases before the EGR valve.
/Mikael
- -Original from Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
>There
is a pipe that attaches to the back of the plenum. It goes into
a
>separate cavity inside of the plenum that goes back OUT of the plenum
and
>into the EGR valve.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 14:15:28 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
Great explanation from Bob
!
> I didn't thought about that stupid routing of the gases before the
EGR valve.
Unfortunately, the manual (even the EU one) is not showing
this perfectly. Even
more the overview picture shows a direct connection to
the EGR valve from the
exhaust manifold and in the beginning I was always
looking this connection :)
For the winter I removed the EGR blocking to
get the warmer intake (brrrr)
Cheers,
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 14:19:38 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: EGT probe pics
> For Roger and anyone else interested, there
are pictures of the EGT probe
> relocation at:
Very good ! The
short probe makes live a lot easier, especially at the stock
exhaust
manifolds :) What brand is the probe ?
Thanks, Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:27:05 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Break out the champaign! (headers)
The exhaust pressure idea is a good
one.
> What about a tapped line that allows to messure the pressure
in
> the manifold
> before the turbo. This would be great for
preventing any
> pre-knock situation as
> too much back-pressure can
cause knock and a pressure sensor acts
> more quick
> than an EGT
probe. I think I'll do this on the front one as there
> is more
space
> available :)
The problem with getting rid of the EGR is
that the ECU still thinks it is
there and behaves accordingly. It
activates it even though there is nothing
to activate. Once activated
the ECU will adjust timing and mixture to
compensate for the heat. This
of course changes the tune of the vehicle.
Manually adjustig for it leaves
the car out of tune once the EGR is
deactivated by the ECU. What really
needs to happen is the EGR code in the
ECU also be eliminated.
>
Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> everything to
keep the
> intake cool and this would be the first one.
Unfortunately,
> emmission test must
> be done evry two years. Also
my mechanic told me that blocking
> the EGR can kill
> the rear
pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?). Comments ?
>
>
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Regards,
Barry
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:34:23 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Break out the champaign! (headers)
So Bob, does the EGR only open during
cold start? I thought it also opened
during other rich conditions like
sudden radical TPS changes.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Bob Fontana
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 5:30 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
>
>
>
There is a pipe that attaches to the back of the plenum. It goes into
a
> separate cavity inside of the plenum that goes back OUT of the plenum
and
> into the EGR valve. The valve then allows/disallows the air
to
> re-enter the
> plenum in the main cavity where your charge air
is. Even when
> the EGR valve
> is closed (not admitting warm
air into the intake manifold) such
> as when the
> car is completely
warmed up or under boost, the small cavity is full of
> heated air from
the EGR pipe. That ends up heating up your plenum via
>
conduction. If you block it off at the flange where the copper pipe
joins
> the plenum, that smaller cavity never gets heated since no
hot
> exhaust will
> ever get inside of the plenum.
>
>
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 10:30:12 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
The ECU closes the valve
under boost, so we know there's no detriment to
performance by running
without it while in boosted state. When cruising,
the ECU will open the
valve up even when the motor is warm. But after two
years of stick time
with the block plate installed, I was still getting 24
MPG @ 80 MPH.
It's hard to tell just what the down side of this
modification is other than
"removing or modifying a pollution control
device". :-)
-
-Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:27 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
>
>
>
The exhaust pressure idea is a good one.
>
> > What about a
tapped line that allows to messure the pressure in
> > the
manifold
> > before the turbo. This would be great for preventing
any
> > pre-knock situation as
> > too much back-pressure can
cause knock and a pressure sensor acts
> > more quick
> > than
an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on the front one as there
> > is
more space
> > available :)
>
> The problem with getting
rid of the EGR is that the ECU still thinks it is
> there and behaves
accordingly. It activates it even though there
> is nothing
>
to activate. Once activated the ECU will adjust timing and mixture
to
> compensate for the heat. This of course changes the tune of the
vehicle.
> Manually adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune once the
EGR is
> deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to happen is the
EGR
> code in the
> ECU also be eliminated.
>
> >
Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> > everything
to keep the
> > intake cool and this would be the first one.
Unfortunately,
> > emmission test must
> > be done evry two
years. Also my mechanic told me that blocking
> > the EGR can
kill
> > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?). Comments
?
> >
> > -----------------------
> > Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
> > 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:37:11 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Break out the champaign! (headers)
Okay, well, that's cool then.
Presumably one could rely on the ECU's fuel
trim to adjust cruise mixture
accordingly. As you say, if it is closed
under boost then we have
control over the mixture.
BTW, those probes look identical to the TRE
pyrometers.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> The ECU closes the valve under boost, so we know
there's no detriment to
> performance by running without it while in
boosted state. When cruising,
> the ECU will open the valve up even
when the motor is warm. But after two
> years of stick time with the
block plate installed, I was still getting 24
> MPG @ 80 MPH. It's
hard to tell just what the down side of this
> modification is other than
"removing or modifying a pollution control
> device". :-)
>
>
-Bob
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
> > Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:27
AM
> > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
>
>
> >
> > The exhaust pressure idea is a good one.
>
>
> > > What about a tapped line that allows to messure the
pressure in
> > > the manifold
> > > before the turbo.
This would be great for preventing any
> > > pre-knock situation
as
> > > too much back-pressure can cause knock and a pressure
sensor acts
> > > more quick
> > > than an EGT probe. I
think I'll do this on the front one as there
> > > is more
space
> > > available :)
> >
> > The problem with
getting rid of the EGR is that the ECU still
> thinks it is
> >
there and behaves accordingly. It activates it even though there
>
> is nothing
> > to activate. Once activated the ECU will
adjust timing and mixture to
> > compensate for the heat. This of
course changes the tune of
> the vehicle.
> > Manually adjustig
for it leaves the car out of tune once the EGR is
> > deactivated by
the ECU. What really needs to happen is the EGR
> > code in
the
> > ECU also be eliminated.
> >
> > >
Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> > >
everything to keep the
> > > intake cool and this would be the first
one. Unfortunately,
> > > emmission test must
> > > be
done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that blocking
> > >
the EGR can kill
> > > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh
?). Comments ?
> > >
> > >
-----------------------
> > > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> >
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> >
> >
> >
Regards,
> >
> > Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:39:39 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Boost increase
Roger,
One way would be to put a restictive orifice
in the line. Based on previous
discussions with Andrew I believe this
is what the tuner did. You would
have to play around with orifice sizes
until you found one that caused the
desired
behavior.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
<snip>
> Plugs and fuel filter makes sense
but I still don't know what
> your mechanic
> exactly did. I doubt
that he changed ANYTHING in the ECU as this
> could only be
> done
by adding a dauther board to it (cost intensive). The only
> idea I can
think
> of is that he added an electronic circuit between the ECU and
the
> stock solenoid
> that then changes the behaivour of it. The
stock solenoid is
> open, alternates at
> one specific frequency or
is closed. These three stages can be
> easily detected
> and then
changed but it makes no sense without a boost sensing
device.
> If he changed the ECU then it makes no sense why
he didn't
> changed the fuel
> curve at the same time. Everything
sounds a little bit strange ;-)
>
> > With this new mod the
pressure peaks at 13.5 psi but holds 12 psi at
> > WOT.
>
>
This is a conservative but very save setting :)
>
> > The best
thing of all is that the car looks totally stock.
>
> Yes it looks
as there MUST be a device (I still believe it's the
> $5 bleeder
>
valve) somewhare mounted. Even with a bleeder valve the car looks
>
totally stock
> as it can be hidden pretty well.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 10:38:28 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
The probe is part of the
VDO EGT. It is over 2" in length which wouldn't
allow me to insert it
all the way into the opening since it would hit the
opposite side of the
manifold wall. Instead, I lightly screwed in the brass
cap with a
compression fitting first, then inserted the probe up to the
stopper rib and
torqued the cap down. This causes the compression fitting
to tighten up
around the probe. It's not going anywhere like that and
prevents the
tip of the probe from touching anything.
- -Bob
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:37 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
>
>
>
Okay, well, that's cool then. Presumably one could rely on the ECU's
fuel
> trim to adjust cruise mixture accordingly. As you say, if it
is closed
> under boost then we have control over the
mixture.
>
> BTW, those probes look identical to the TRE
pyrometers.
>
>
> Regards,
>
>
Barry
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> >
The ECU closes the valve under boost, so we know there's no detriment to
>
> performance by running without it while in boosted state.
When
> cruising,
> > the ECU will open the valve up even when the
motor is warm.
> But after two
> > years of stick time with the
block plate installed, I was still
> getting 24
> > MPG @ 80
MPH. It's hard to tell just what the down side of this
> >
modification is other than "removing or modifying a pollution control
>
> device". :-)
> >
> > -Bob
> >
> > >
-----Original Message-----
> > > From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> > [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
> Barry E. King
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04,
1998 10:27 AM
> > > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
> >
>
> > >
> > > The exhaust pressure idea is a good
one.
> > >
> > > > What about a tapped line that
allows to messure the pressure in
> > > > the manifold
>
> > > before the turbo. This would be great for preventing any
>
> > > pre-knock situation as
> > > > too much
back-pressure can cause knock and a pressure sensor acts
> > > >
more quick
> > > > than an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on the
front one as there
> > > > is more space
> > > >
available :)
> > >
> > > The problem with getting rid of
the EGR is that the ECU still
> > thinks it is
> > > there
and behaves accordingly. It activates it even though there
> >
> is nothing
> > > to activate. Once activated the ECU will
adjust timing and mixture to
> > > compensate for the heat.
This of course changes the tune of
> > the vehicle.
> > >
Manually adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune once the EGR is
> >
> deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to happen is the
EGR
> > > code in the
> > > ECU also be
eliminated.
> > >
> > > > Therefore, you also blocked
the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> > > > everything to keep
the
> > > > intake cool and this would be the first one.
Unfortunately,
> > > > emmission test must
> > > >
be done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that blocking
> > >
> the EGR can kill
> > > > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter
gases (huh ?). Comments ?
> > > >
> > > >
-----------------------
> > > > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
>
> > > 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> > >
>
> >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > >
Barry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 4 Dec 1998 11:11:36 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Alterations for boost increase - MASC
>If anyone is interested
in the MASC, please e-mial me and I'll
>create a list to show Dave there
really is a market out there!!
Augh!
Say it isn't so!!!!
I
was planning on buying a MASC in February! Literally! - I get a bonus from
my
job in January, and probably a small tax refund, and I was going to use
some
of the money to buy a MASC!
Quick, what's TRE's email / phone number /
url? If it's true that they're
shutting down production, I'm going to dig up
a credit card and order one
ASAP...
(Dang, why'd it take me this long
to work through my backlog of Thanksgiving
mail!?!)
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 17:34:31 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
> There shouldn't be too
much of a problem doing it. Especially to the front
> header since
there is easier access for drilling and tapping.
> Question: Once you
determine that you're in a pre-knock condition based on
> excessive back
pressure, what action do you intend to take?
> Is this part of a
longer-term engine management project?
Or short term. The controller for
the diag tool I use has 8 analog inputs and
two of them should be EGT and
exhauhst manifold pressure. I'm currently looking
around for a device that is
able to read that high pressures (I think the boost
sensor that comes with
the VPC could read up to 5 bars, I'm not sure). With the
warning setting for
each channel I'd be able to activate two relais controlling
any solenoid. The
idea could be opening a parallel solenoid valve to the BC
solenoid to reduce
boost.
// Roger
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 04 Dec 1998 14:56:46 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: TRE web page!
Here it is:
http://www.teamrip.com/
Jose
"Fein,
Edward" wrote:
><SNIP>
> Augh!
>
> Say it isn't
so!!!!
>
><SNIP>
> Quick, what's TRE's email / phone
number / url? If it's true that they're
> shutting down production, I'm
going to dig up a credit card and order one
> ASAP...
>
><SNIP>
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------------------------------
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