--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #39
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest        Thursday, December 3 1998        Volume 01 : Number 039




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:41:48 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: whos car?

Does anyone know anything about the 3000GT in these pictures??

It's probably modified alot and not just the outside, notice the huge front mount Intercooler. I wonder if that is a carbon fiber hood.

http://members.aol.com/HyBrID111/3000gt.html

/Mikael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:23:15 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Team3S Digest V1 #37

Chien from Nexus is very helpful and he was the one who figured out how to
install the Blitz stuff (Mikael and me). I always speak with him at first and
often when doing the deal :)

Try these links :

New and used parts :  http://home.hiwaay.net/~gclayton/dsmtrader/
David Buschurs site : http://www.buschurracing.com/ (he's selling the Datalogger
too)
Extreme Motorsports : http://www.extrememotorsports.com/ (never got an answer
from them)
Alamo Motorsports :   http://alamomotorsports.com/ (the source of the good dp)
Zen Motorsports :     http://www.zen-motorsports.com/

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:33:16 +0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: whos car?

Ahhh, this looks like the FMIC I got from Brian :) I still don't know how to fit
it in place as I do have the water reservoir for the lights sprays in the
bumper.

But the front bumper looks like a Supra :( ... don't like it that much.

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 11:16:15 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S: Break Calibers

Has anyone had a problem with break calibers, I took my car to the shop
today to get the breaks checked out. I was informed by the shop that it
would need new calibers. Could anyone explain to me why would it need
such a thing.

- --
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO 80202-2994
Voice: (303) 624-0803
Home:  (719) 573-1775
Fax:   (303) 624-1288


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:21:40 -0600
From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@texas.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S:Brake Calipers, Was Break Calibers

You should really ask the shop why they are bad.  If they are unwilling to
explain, find another shop.

Calipers can hang up, get frozen from rust etc.  Generally it is from
neglect.  (Not changing your brake fluid every two years)  Sooner if you
live in a humid climate.

> Brad
>
> Check out my home page:    http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail: bbedell@texas.net ICQ#  3612682


- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Ricardo Cousar
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 12:16 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Break Calibers

Has anyone had a problem with break calibers, I took my car to the shop
today to get the breaks checked out. I was informed by the shop that it
would need new calibers. Could anyone explain to me why would it need
such a thing.

- --
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO 80202-2994
Voice: (303) 624-0803
Home:  (719) 573-1775
Fax:   (303) 624-1288


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:14:51 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Relocating the battery

When you relocate the battery into the trunk, do you need a special battery
case (sealed and vented) because it will be located in the passenger cabin
(hatchback vrs a true trunk)?

Thanks

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 11:34:55 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Calipers (was: Break Calibers)

Richard...

Calipers are normally rebuilt using kits with new cups and soft parts,
perhaps new pistons if they're badly pitted. The cylinders can be honed. I'd
be concerned if someone told me I needed all new calipers and couldn't
explain why.

Looking forward...Chris

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar [mailto:rcousar@uswest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:16 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Break Calibers

Has anyone had a problem with break calibers, I took my car to the shop
today to get the breaks checked out. I was informed by the shop that it
would need new calibers. Could anyone explain to me why would it need
such a thing.

Ricardo Cousar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:41:32 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the battery

I've wondered how to address this one too.

I plan to relocate my battery before the car gets back on the road but when
I do it I plan to use a gel-pack style of battery.  I don't like the idea of
hydrogen producing liquid cells in the passenger compartment.  I don't like
the idea of sacrifcing the spare tire but I may end up putting the battery
there although it could probably go where one of the storage trays currently
live.

What have others done?  Anyone have installation pictures?


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> When you relocate the battery into the trunk, do you need a
> special battery
> case (sealed and vented) because it will be located in the passenger cabin
> (hatchback vrs a true trunk)?
>
> Thanks
>
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:35:43 -0800
From: "GT ALLEY" <thegtalley@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: whos car?

This car is Joshua Seung's car and is a GT ALLEY car. The front mount in
this picture is no longer on the car. Instead, we made him a new front mount
and it covers the ENTIRE front mouth (no gap at ALL). All you see is
intercooler.

Yes, this is the GT ALLEY carbon fiber hood. This car is a 91' with the
94'up front end conversion. The car also sports a Veilside kit from a Supra,
modified to fit along with a Extremor/Veilside front bumper (split in half).

Thanks,
Brian@
The GT ALLEY
3/S Performance Central
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Åkesson <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com' <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: whos car?


>Does anyone know anything about the 3000GT in these pictures??
>
>It's probably modified alot and not just the outside, notice the huge front
mount Intercooler. I wonder if that is a carbon fiber hood.
>
>http://members.aol.com/HyBrID111/3000gt.html
>
>/Mikael
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 15:33:02 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery

In a message dated 12/2/98 2:26:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< When you relocate the battery into the trunk, do you need a special battery
 case (sealed and vented) because it will be located in the passenger cabin
 (hatchback vrs a true trunk)?
  >>

I have the battery reloacted to the trunk in my dad's '95 Pont. Formula.  We
used a boat battery box (plastic, very cost effective) which works really
well.  Summit sells a similar type batter box really cheap.  Morroso <sp?> has
a really nice box which is more of an air-tight design, but its more
expensive.

However, to be NHRA legal you need to have it vented (ie. tubing to the
outside of the car) and the batter box has to be bolted down using two
specified diameter thick bolts.. I dont have the NHRA book handy, but I'm sure
someone on the list can help us out here..!?  I also think Turbo magazine came
out with an issue that listed the NHRA requirements not to long ago....that
sound list what size we need :).

TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:51:03 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: whos car?

I don't know who exactly drive this car.. but I seen it on the streets
in Rowland Heights (s. cal). Very clean and the best 3000 i seen!

George




- ---=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know anything about the 3000GT in these pictures??
>
> It's probably modified alot and not just the outside, notice the
huge front mount Intercooler. I wonder if that is a carbon fiber hood.
>
> http://members.aol.com/HyBrID111/3000gt.html
>
> /Mikael
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:00:33 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the battery

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE1E3F.300A31E0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I relocated my battery to the trunk a few weeks ago. I use a Optima =
yellow top. This is an expensive battery but it will last forever =
(allmost) a good thing with the optima is that is totally sealed and can =
be mounted in any possition even upside down! I have routed 21cm2 cables =
from the trunk to the engine compartment. First I used the chassi as =
ground but that resulted in a small "bzzz" sound in my stereo so now I =
have a cable for the ground as well. I have 100 Ah automatic fuse on the =
battery for security.

I mounted the battery in the back right corner, I have taken the black =
plastic "box" out and the battery fits perfectly.

file://Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4=20

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey Young [SMTP:jefyoung@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:15 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Relocating the battery

When you relocate the battery into the trunk, do you need a special =
battery
case (sealed and vented) because it will be located in the passenger =
cabin
(hatchback vrs a true trunk)?

Thanks

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE1E3F.300A31E0--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:00:37 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery

Maybe we could make a list of pros and cons for relocating the battery..

These are some Pros I though of..

- -Without the battery box, changing the tranny/clutch would take ~20 less
minutes
- -Without the battery box, access to the rear turbo and associated vacuum lines
is significantly easier (which would make it easier to pull the wastegates :P
and or check for vacuum leaks)
- -Without the battery box, there is more room for a custom BOV mounting
location
- -Without the battery box, the fuel filter would be easily accessible
- -Without the battery box, there is more room to make a custom cold-air box
- -Without the battery box, for those using the VPC, it is possible to replace
the stock inlet tubing with a direct tube off each turbo (which could have its
own, separate air-filter)
- -With the batter in the trunk, it would be subject to less frequent/severe
temperature changes which could helps its longevity

A few cons...

- -expensive (cant skimp out on cheap cables, it could lead to problems down the
road and low voltages)
- -have to run battery cables to the trunk = added weight
- -takes up even more room in a trunk that really doesn't have much to start
with


With those pros and cons, it looks like relocating the battery may bennefit
those who are heavy into racing their Stealth/VR4 (meaning go through clutches
frequently, pull the wastegates at the track, need more room for custom mods
like larger BOVs, etc).


TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:09:51 +0100
From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the battery

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE1E40.7C6E5BA0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

A few more PROs:

You can route a fat and short cable directly to your fuel pump to be =
sure it work at 100%

Wheight distribution will be better.

I have space enough for a water cooled intercooler :)

One con is that you have to design a small bracket to hold the water =
bottle to the windscreen spray thing (can't find the right word :) but =
that was very easy.

/Mikael Akesson

- -----Original Message-----
From: LotoBoost@aol.com [SMTP:LotoBoost@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:01 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery

Maybe we could make a list of pros and cons for relocating the battery..

These are some Pros I though of..

- -Without the battery box, changing the tranny/clutch would take ~20 less
minutes
- -Without the battery box, access to the rear turbo and associated vacuum =
lines
is significantly easier (which would make it easier to pull the =
wastegates :P
and or check for vacuum leaks)
- -Without the battery box, there is more room for a custom BOV mounting
location
- -Without the battery box, the fuel filter would be easily accessible
- -Without the battery box, there is more room to make a custom cold-air =
box
- -Without the battery box, for those using the VPC, it is possible to =
replace
the stock inlet tubing with a direct tube off each turbo (which could =
have its
own, separate air-filter)
- -With the batter in the trunk, it would be subject to less =
frequent/severe
temperature changes which could helps its longevity

A few cons...

- -expensive (cant skimp out on cheap cables, it could lead to problems =
down the
road and low voltages)
- -have to run battery cables to the trunk =3D added weight
- -takes up even more room in a trunk that really doesn't have much to =
start
with


With those pros and cons, it looks like relocating the battery may =
bennefit
those who are heavy into racing their Stealth/VR4 (meaning go through =
clutches
frequently, pull the wastegates at the track, need more room for custom =
mods
like larger BOVs, etc).


TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE1E40.7C6E5BA0--

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 15:56:01 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery

Mikael;

I will be using an Optima Red Top which is also a sealed unit.  Did you run
the cables through the same channel as the fuel supply and return lines or
did you run them inside?

Thanks

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth



I relocated my battery to the trunk a few weeks ago. I use a Optima yellow
top. This is an expensive battery but it will last forever (allmost) a good
thing with the optima is that is totally sealed and can be mounted in any
possition even upside down! I have routed 21cm2 cables from the trunk to the
engine compartment. First I used the chassi as ground but that resulted in a
small "bzzz" sound in my stereo so now I have a cable for the ground as
well. I have 100 Ah automatic fuse on the battery for security.

I mounted the battery in the back right corner, I have taken the black
plastic "box" out and the battery fits perfectly.

file://Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:02:05 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine control system wish list

Hi Mikael,

> I will provide more info as soon as I have more information about the system and all it's components. I would be glad if you all can send me your "wish lists" on things that you want to have in the system. For example: is it a good thing to have boost control or do we all want to continue with our boost controlers that easily can be changed without a computer??!!?
>
> I don't have all information so please let me hear all your suggestions.

I think boost control would be a good idea.  I like the fact of having
one engine control system since everything is inter-related.  For
example, in lean conditions, the ECS algorithm could first try to
increase the injector duty cycle, then retard the timing, then lower the
set boost.   If knock is detected, an appropriate algorithm could also
be invoked (reduce boost?).

Other items for the wish list:
1) Use a dual solenoid valve like the one Blitz uses for the DSBC for
highest resolution of control.
2) Have complete data logging capability for 30 seconds of run time (or
perhaps use some type of recorder for longer times).  Have an interface
that we can analyze the data on a PC.
3) Include horsepower calculating ability like The Home Dyno
(http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm)
4) Provide some type of display(s) like the one used by the TRE MASC.
Maybe have some type of input too (small keypad or something).
5) Utilize optional additional sensors such as Air-Fuel and Exhaust Gas
Temperature.  Maybe a better knock sensor too.
6) Package it as a replacement ECU (I imagine that this would be a lot
of work!) with programable parameters such as rev limiter, etc.  Provide
connections for above displays, sensors, data recorder, boost solenoid
valve.

As you can tell, I am basically 'wishing' for one product/system that
would take the place of a G-Force ECU, boost controller, TRE MASC,
VPC/GCC or AFC, Data logger, Home Dyno, and who knows what else I
forgot.  I hope I'm not wishing for too much!  If it did all this, I'm
sure you'll have many folks lining up, especially if it will cost less
than $2K.

Good luck,
Ken

- --

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:57:05 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery

Mikael:

Mikael Åkesson wrote:
>
> I relocated my battery to the trunk a few weeks ago. [...] I have routed 21cm2 cables from the trunk to the engine compartment.

<snip>

What are the chances of taking a few pictures showing the installed
battery and the cable routing/path you used and posting them (or mailing
them) so those interested can see your setup?  I, for one, would be
*very* interested in doing this.

Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:28:41 -0500
From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the battery

I'm in the middle of doing a relocation, myself. I'm using a Black Panther
Predator batterry, mounted in a custom home-made sealed and vented box.

If you pull the rear trim in the trunk, there is exactly 8" of space between
the rear (metal) wall of the trunk and the hump for the fuel filler line. My
batterry is about 6" wide, which gives me 1" on either side of the batterry
for airspace and the walls of the box. The box ended up being about 8" wide
by 10" long, and contains a 0.5" gap all the way around the battery. A 3/4"
vinyl tube vents to the outside of the car.

I'll have to cut the trim around the box when I install everything, but I
will not lose any significant trunk space. The box bolts down to the floor
of the trunk, outside of the fuel tank, above the passenger's side exhaust
pipe.

I removed the rear windshield washer fluid resevoir to make space for the
box, and there's a small computer back there that I relocated to the cavity
where the washer resevoit used to fit.

I'm going to run the cables up the passenger side of the car through the
firewall - there's a large wiring tunnel along under the passenger door.

As a side note, I'm going to run the rear washer fluid line forwards, and
link it up to the front resevoir, so I'll still have rear washer fluid. The
line will only have to exend another foot or so - given where the resevoir
is stock, the original line is pretty long.

So, in summarry, if you're willing to do the work, you can have a sealed,
externally vented batterry box without sacrificing any real trunk space.

PICTURES: I don't own a camera (no joke). But if anyone wants to come by my
place in Fairfax, VA this weekend and take pictures, everything is
completely disassembled and in plain view at the moment.

   -Ed
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:39:49 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the battery

Jeffrey Young <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com> Wrote:
Did you run the cables through the same channel as the fuel supply and return lines or did you run them inside?
>>>

I routed the cables on the passenger side of the car. Take the plastic panel at the instep away and just use the tunnel that runs under the floor mat. Then I just layed the cables under the plasic side interior all the way back to the corner. Be sure that you don't have any signal cables to the stereo here that will cause bad sound and generator sounds in the speakers.

Behind the original possition of the battery there is a hole thru the firewall that I used, I had to use hand dish wash liquid (word??) on the cables to be able to get them to "glide" thru the rubber seal in the firewall.

The way that Edward did his installation is a nicer looking sollution than mine but mine is alot easier to do and can be relocated again to look stock without any damage to the interior.

/Mikael

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:43:57 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the battery

I'll try to get some pictures during the week end and post them to my web page. I'll let you guys know when it's ready.

/Mikael Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4


From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
What are the chances of taking a few pictures showing the installed
battery and the cable routing/path you used and posting them (or mailing them) so those interested can see your setup?  I, for one, would be *very* interested in doing this.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:47:23 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: Team3S: Break out the champaign!

After a day of fiddling around with my shift linkage, I was able to find
reverse gear and back the car out of the garage.  My first trip was to the
gas station and then to Dunkin Donuts for a celebratory "large one, cream
and sugar please".  The car runs perfectly.  Perfectly until I blew the
front turbo I/C hose off.  Since it came off the first time I went under
boost, I couldn't get any readings/impressions of performance.  A
seat-of-the-pants impression would be useless anyway, after driving a Honda
Civic for the last 7 months.

The clutch/gearbox/shift linkage still needs some work.  The 2->1 grinding
is gone, but now the clutch feels like there's only about 1" of travel and
it's not disengaging completely.  This is indicated by grinding when I
attempt to put it into 2nd gear while at a dead stop with the motor running.
There was a little 1->2 grinding as well.  Since that's a new synchro, I'm
sure that a clutch adjustment is in order.

Also, the factory shop manual appears to be unspecific about placement of
those bushings I mentioned a couple of days ago.   Since I'm probably
missing one, I'm going to order the whole set from TallMits and go back
through everything before I hit the gears hard.  I don't want to blow a gear
because of my own stupidity.

So far, I'm satisfied.  All smoke (other than a really bad over-rich
condition) disappeared 10 minutes after the motor was started the first
time.  It idles perfectly at 850 RPM despite my having removed that entire
cluster of vacuum hoses from the top of the throttle body and blocked them
all off.  The only little hose left runs from the hidden FPR solenoid to the
stock FPR.  There are a couple of silicone hoses for the BOV, EVC and
Cartech FPR (which I decided to keep since I've never melted down with it
installed).

I love the new location of the EGT probe -- tapped directly into the rear
exhaust manifold.  It now shows 1050F cruising in 5th gear at around 1800
RPM.  In its previous location, it would muster only 750 or 800F at that
speed.  So, as I suspected, the turbo does in fact, cool the exhaust around
250 degrees.

Gone is the evap canister and gone are the 4 hard lines that run from right
before the rear turbo to the front of the car.  Will it pass emissions now?
Who cares?  The EVC actuator line tees off to both actuators with equal
lengths of hose.  I relocated some VPC-related connectors, etc., to
unclutter the firewall a bit.  I liked Brad's "bare bones" look and decided
to copy it.  My engine bay still needs to be cleaned up -- replacing
tattered electrical tape, painting over scratches, getting rid of dirt,
grease, etc. will be done in the next few days.  Then, I'll get some
pictures of the new setup and put them up on my site.

- -Bob

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------------------------------

End of Team3S Digest V1 #39
***************************

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