--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #24
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence:
bulk
Team3S Digest Friday,
November 13 1998 Volume 01 : Number
024
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Nov 1998 15:32:06 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Team3S: San Diego gathering/track event
Finally, a long awaited gathering
in San Diego is materializing (at
least two of us are interested ;)).
Folks in Southern California ,
Arizona, and anyone willing to drive a few
hours might be interested
too.
On Saturday January 23, 1999, there
will be a 1 day "High Performance
Driving" track event in San Diego County at
Holtville. Holtville is 2
hours East of San Diego and I'd guess about 3
hours West of Phoenix.
Current thoughts are to meet for an early
breakfast in San Diego, then
caravan to Holtville for some track time.
LA area folks could spend
Friday night in San Diego, drive down to SD early
in the morning for
breakfast and/or caravan, or just drive directly to
Holtville.
Here is the information I have at this time:
The event has
been hosted regularly for the last 5 years by Dave Turner,
http://www.daveturner.com
Cost:
$100
Requirements: helmet
Description: "My driving events have just enough
structure to keep
things safe. We
welcome all cars and usually get
from 35 to 50. I am in my 5th year of
putting on driving events and have
never had an on track incident.
The Holtville track is probably the safest
race course in the USA. It
is
made up of airport runways and has
plenty of run-off room. The track is
1.5
miles with 9 turns.
I do have
driving instructors available. There is no tech inspection.
You
are
expected to bring a safe car to the track. There is no gas at
the
track."
This sounds like an informal event, oriented for track
time. No timing,
no competitive
racing, just you and your car and an
instructor if you want. He divides
the cars up into 2 or 3 groups
depending on how aggressive you want to
be. Each group will run about
10 laps each time so you won't overheat
your tires, engine, or brakes.
He said that brakes suffer the most so
you might want to have new front pads
and/or bring an extra set. He
said it is easy to get in 50 laps, and if
you try real hard, 150.
I should get more information in December.
I'd like to get some
feedback from folks who might be interested.
Please email me directly
at mailto:kmiddaugh@ixpres.com so we can
keep the list traffic to a
minimum.
- --
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 12 Nov 1998 20:20:54 EST
From: NYMaxxNY@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: re:BLITZ
English manual
Thank you Roger and all who replied. Great
instructions.
Couldn't do without it.However there are still few questions
but not now.
Thanks very much.
Max,
92VR4
>>Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 01:06:58 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: BLITZ English manual
Hey Max,
I assume you already
installed so I start here. There is no explanation in the
english manual for
the tune-in procedure. These are the main things you have
to
know
.....................................
<<
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 06:39:35 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problems /
rebuild page up and running
Hey Roger, did you ever get a chance to call
Bosch and ask if they sold a Dyno
to anyone here in the USA? I've tracked
down every rumor and still can't find
an AWD Dyno anywhere in the
USA.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 11/12/98 4:53:44 PM !!!First
Boot!!!, robby@swissonline.ch
writes:
<<
ubj: Re: Team3S: Problems / rebuild page up and running
Date: 11/12/98
4:53:44 PM !!!First Boot!!!
From: robby@swissonline.ch
(R.G.)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
To anyone who's interested. I've just uploaded my "Problems/rebuild" page
to
my
> homestead at GeoCities (urgh). You can find it under the first
topic on my
> 3000GT page :
>
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/3000gt.html
...
and today I added the dyno-sheet to the problems page. It does show
how
power was reduced due to the retarded timing and
knock.
Cheers,
Roger
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 07:45:48 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Synchro replacement
Hi all, I just got my new 1->2 synchros
installed in my 5-speed Getrag for
only $344.50. It took the
transmission builder about 6 hours to pick his
way through the job but it
isn't impossible. I got it done at A & S
Transmission in Deerfield
Beach, FL (954) 883-8860. I can't report on the
way the shifts
feel yet because the engine and gearbox are still out of the
car.
However, since the synchros are a complete assembly, I am confident
that it's
right.
Southern Gear quoted me $500 plus shipping both ways. They
used to pay
shipping one way with the customer paying the other way.
So, friends, it
looks like they are getting more expensive.
-
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 07:45:52 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Rebuild pics
Hi, Thanks Roger for a good explanation of your
rebuild. I didn't mind the
extra download time at all. If you
guys want to spend even more time
downloading, go to http://www.gate.net/~mits/rebuild98.html.
This page has
some pretty good pics including some taken a couple weeks ago
with the
engine almost ready to go back into the car. Now that the
synchros are
installed in the gearbox, it's time to move forward.
-
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:21:29 -0600
From: "Todd D Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Rebuild pics/synchros
Bob,
How difficult was the installation of
the
synchros and did you do it yourself or
was it performed by a trans
shop?
I have synchros at the ready and when
the time comes I'm wondering
what to
expect.
- - tds
-
-----------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, November 13, 1998 6:46 AM
Subject: Team3S:
Rebuild pics
If you guys want to spend even more
time
downloading, go to http://www.gate.net/~mits/rebuild98.html.
This page
has
some pretty good pics including some
taken a couple weeks ago with the
engine almost ready to
go back into the car. Now that the synchros are
installed in the gearbox, it's time to move forward.
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:22:54 -0600
From: "Todd D Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Synchro replacement
Guess I should have continued
reading - thanks for
the synchro
install info Bob.
- - tds
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 16:29:12 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Rebuild pics
> If you guys want to spend even more
time
> downloading, go to http://www.gate.net/~mits/rebuild98.html.
This page has
> some pretty good pics including some taken a couple weeks
ago with the
> engine almost ready to go back into the car.
Umpf,
after visiting Bobs rebuild page I call mine "the mini-smart-rebuild"
:)
BTW, how did you manage the crack in the cylinder wall and what had to
be
replaced ? Also what brand are the new headers ?? Do you have any
close-ups of
them ? (sorry for so many
questions)
Cheers,
Roger
- -----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 11:08:10 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Synchro replacement
I just returned from the transmission
shop with my gearbox.
awdtt <- happy camper
I retrieved the old
1-2 synchro assembly and scanned them directly on my
flatbed.
Surprisingly, they came out well enough to show you the problem
with
them. I uploaded them to my site and they are named:
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r024.jpg
98r24
shows a full shot of the 2->1 synchro gear. It is about 10%
bigger
than actual size.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r025.jpg
98r25
shows a closeup of the inside of the gear in an area that showed the
most
wear. The wear was uneven. The brass is only a coating. It
is
supposed to be rough to the touch in order to create enough friction
to
"grab" the hub that sits inside of it. There are evenly-spaced
grooves as
well. They serve as oil retainers but also can be used to
judge wear. Here
is where this picture is great -- it shows how the
groove is gone and how
the brass material is almost worn away. No
friction at all means no
synchronizing going on here!
-
-Bob
> How difficult was the installation of the
> synchros and
did you do it yourself or
> was it performed by a trans shop?
> I
have synchros at the ready and when
> the time comes I'm wondering what
to
> expect.
>
> - tds
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:52:18 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Synchro replacement
Cool information Bob.
So this begs the
question, what design modifications can be made to reduce
or eliminate this
failure point?
I know a guy who works high up at Allied Signal. He
offered in the past to
toss his weight around a bit and have synchros
fabricated since they really
are very simple parts to build.
Maybe the
problem is not with the actual synchro ring but inadequate oiling
TO the
ring. An M.E. somewhere might be able to evaluate the current
design
and suggest alternatives. Any on the
list?
Regards,
Barry
> 98r25 shows a closeup of the
inside of the gear in an area that showed the
> most wear. The wear
was uneven. The brass is only a coating. It is
> supposed to
be rough to the touch in order to create enough friction to
> "grab" the
hub that sits inside of it. There are evenly-spaced grooves as
>
well. They serve as oil retainers but also can be used to judge
>
wear. Here
> is where this picture is great -- it shows how the
groove is gone and how
> the brass material is almost worn away. No
friction at all means no
> synchronizing going on here!
>
>
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:06:09 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Synchro replacement
I'm not a ME (but I play one on
TV...)
My understanding of synchro rings is that they *can* be
over-lubricated,
that is, if the gear oil is too slippery, not enough
friction will be
applied. From the looks of the wear on my synchro
gears, that was not the
problem. I believe my 2->1 gear stems from a
particular run where I tried
to downshift at too high of an RPM. I
ended up forcing it in, lest I run
out of track. I think that when the
speed differential between gears is too
high, that the gear gets heated and
glazed. I'd have to think that gear oil
helps keep these parts cool via
conduction as well as serving as a
lubricant.
The 1->2 (upshift)
gear shows wear, but not to the extent of the 2->1 gear.
Again, I'm
shifting at 7450 RPM (or so my tach says) and that seems to be
right at the
envelope for a smooth transition to 2nd gear. Since the torque
is so
high at that RPM, the synchros receive the a shock when they are spun
up
similar to the clutch-flywheel spin-up from a 7000 RPM launch.
There's
probably some "spinnage" going on there which a normal coating of
gear oil
can't protect.
Jack if you are reading this, what's your .02
worth?
- -Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Barry E. King
> Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 11:52 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Synchro replacement
>
>
> Cool
information Bob.
>
> So this begs the question, what design
modifications can be made to reduce
> or eliminate this failure
point?
>
> I know a guy who works high up at Allied Signal. He
offered in
> the past to
> toss his weight around a bit and have
synchros fabricated since
> they really
> are very simple parts to
build.
>
> Maybe the problem is not with the actual synchro ring
but
> inadequate oiling
> TO the ring. An M.E. somewhere might
be able to evaluate the
> current design
> and suggest
alternatives. Any on the list?
>
>
>
Regards,
>
> Barry
>
> > 98r25 shows a closeup of the
inside of the gear in an area that
> showed the
> > most
wear. The wear was uneven. The brass is only a coating. It
is
> > supposed to be rough to the touch in order to create enough
friction to
> > "grab" the hub that sits inside of it. There are
evenly-spaced
> grooves as
> > well. They serve as oil
retainers but also can be used to judge
> > wear. Here
>
> is where this picture is great -- it shows how the groove is
> gone
and how
> > the brass material is almost worn away. No friction
at all means no
> > synchronizing going on here!
> >
>
> -Bob
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:43:44 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Rebuild pics (LONG)
I'll try to explain the cylinder problem
with the minimum amount of
bandwidth. About 2 1/2 years ago, I blew a
head gasket and my local
dealership did the repair under warranty. They
also suggested that I let
them replace the rings and bearings since the rings
might have been
de-tensioned and the bearings just for general
principles. I said "sure,
why not" since it was free. They
proceeded to do the whole job without
removing the engine. When I got
it back, the bearings all spun at 112 miles
on the odometer.
Now, the
dealership was stuck having to do the job over again, but this
time, they had
to pay for it themselves. They needed to replace the crank,
rods and
pistons since they couldn't figure out why the bearings all spun.
They also
decided to send the block to a machine shop to hone the cylinders
to .020
oversize. The machine shop, while doing cylinder #2, broke their
honing
machine. They had pull the honing bit out of the cylinder using a
chain
hoist. That ended up putting a .010" deep x .040" wide groove in
the
cylinder wall. The machine shop called Delray Mitsubishi to tell
them what
happened and Delray Mitsubishi told them "Don't worry about it --
just give
us the block back." Needless to say, they didn't tell me
about it and they
swore the machine shop to secrecy since, when I called the
machine shop
directly to inquire as to what they thought caused the bearings
to spin,
they said that the cylinders had been hand-honed and were not
perfectly true
round. The owner went on to say that there was another
problem with the
block but he was not at liberty to say what since Delray
Mitsubishi was one
of his biggest customers.
This was all in early
1996. When I finally got my car back in July 1996,
every time the boost
went over 15 PSI, oil would leak from everywhere under
the car and it was
using one quart of oil every 400 miles. The crankcase
was being
pressurized by combustion gases going through that groove. My
charge
air was always full of oil from vapors being circulated out of the
valve
covers and into my intercoolers.
Nobody could find or fix the problem,
so, last April I decided to take the
matters into my own hands and find the
source of the leak. Well, I did find
it
as you can see in http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r003.jpg.
Conservatively,
I'd have to think that the 20% compression loss on the #2
cylinder was
causing me to lose 50 horsepower. Not to mention the fact that
the
octane rating of my fuel was reduced by several points as well heated
due to
oil content and the fact that my clutch disk was always coated
with
oil. What this all means is, if I put the motor back together
properly and
fix a few other things, that this car will be a rocket like it
always should
have been. I'm estimating sub-11 second timeslips in the
coming weeks.
- -Bob
> BTW, how did you manage the crack in
the cylinder wall and what had to be
> replaced ? Also what brand are the
new headers ?? Do you have any
> close-ups of
> them ? (sorry for so
many questions)
>
> Cheers,
> Roger
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:16:18 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Rebuild pics
-
--------------B2CBAA8BBFAC7DBC869CB4EA
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Bob Fontana
wrote:
> Hi, Thanks Roger for a good explanation of your
rebuild. I didn't mind the
> extra download time at all. If
you guys want to spend even more time
> downloading, go to http://www.gate.net/~mits/rebuild98.html.
Great
pics Bob!....Do you think you could come over to my house and do what you did
to
your car to mine? Oh, also...bring your checkbook too!
Good
work my freind. I hope someday, now that I have another car to
drive, I can
accomplish the same thing with mine.
> --
-
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo
'93 Jeep YJ Wrangler
Sport
St. Louis,
MO
- --------------B2CBAA8BBFAC7DBC869CB4EA
Content-Type:
text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML>
<P>Bob Fontana
wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Hi, Thanks Roger for a good explanation of
your rebuild.
I didn't mind the
<BR>extra download time at
all. If you guys want to spend even
more
time
<BR>downloading, go to <A
HREF="http://www.gate.net/~mits/rebuild98.html">http://www.gate.net/~mits/rebuild98.html</A>.</BLOCKQUOTE>
Great
pics Bob!....Do you think you could come over to my house and do
what you did
to your car to mine? Oh, also...bring<B><I>
your</I></B>
checkbook too!
<P>Good work my
freind. I hope someday, now that I have another
car to
drive, I can accomplish the same thing with mine.
<BLOCKQUOTE
TYPE=CITE>--</BLOCKQUOTE>
- -Jeff
Crabtree
<BR> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo
<BR> '93 Jeep
YJ Wrangler
Sport
<BR>
St. Louis, MO
<BR> </HTML>
-
--------------B2CBAA8BBFAC7DBC869CB4EA--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:19:40 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Upgrade Cams
I just wanted to know if any one could help me with a
vendor. I am not a
machnic and I don't know the details about cam spec's. I
do however have
a manufacture willing to produce upgrade cam's for our
vehicles if we
can supply him with enough orders.
Thank's
-
--
Ricardo Cousar
Voice: (303) 624-0803
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:41:28 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Upgrade Cams
Ricardo,
Are these regrinds or ground from
billets? Optimal cam specs will vary with
other engine parameters and
intended use. This is definitely an area of
interest to me
also.
Regards,
Barry
> I just wanted to know if any
one could help me with a vendor. I am not a
> machnic and I don't know the
details about cam spec's. I do however have
> a manufacture willing to
produce upgrade cam's for our vehicles if we
> can supply him with enough
orders.
>
> Thank's
>
> --
> Ricardo
Cousar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:59:01 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrade Cams
> Are these regrinds or ground from
billets?
>
> Barry, these are orginal unfinished cams. The
shop will finish the grinding process
> on the cam with the new upgrade
spec's. Thanks, Ricardo.
- --
Ricardo Cousar
Voice: (303)
624-0803
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 13:04:53 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Upgrade Cams
Cool. I know Crower will regrind a cam at $50 USD a
stick.
Billets would be better though.
Now to determine
specifications...
I have been playing with various profiles using a
software model but
experience shows this is not necessarily what works best
in the actual
engine. Otherwise stated the model is
incomplete.
What is the approximate cost of the camshafts? Would
they be willing to
keep costs low for a first few test runs until a suitable
profile is
determined?
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Ricardo Cousar
> Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 12:59
PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrade Cams
>
>
> > Are these
regrinds or ground from billets?
> >
> > Barry, these
are orginal unfinished cams. The shop will finish
> the grinding
process
> > on the cam with the new upgrade spec's. Thanks,
Ricardo.
>
> --
> Ricardo Cousar
>
> Voice: (303)
624-0803
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 15:06:05 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Tire pressure
Going to the track. Would appreciate any
advise on tire pressure. Thanks
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 15:24:37 -0500
From: "Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire pressure
I run 40 PSI all the way around. Yes, it
causes wheelspin, but spinning
lessens the chances of chewing up the splines
on your output shaft and other
possible driveline breakages. In cooler
weather (below 60F), you can lower
the pressure to 35 or 36 to achieve the
same amount of spin. Others may
argue that your times will suffer and I
agree with them. The most important
thing, however, is being able to
drive it home afterwards.
- -Bob (ran 11.47 with 40 PSI and pump
gas)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Theiss,
> Charles
> Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 3:06
PM
> To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
Subject: Team3S: Tire pressure
>
>
> Going to the track.
Would appreciate any advise on tire pressure. Thanks
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 15:42:08 -0500
From: "Theiss, Charles" <charles.theiss@lmco.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Tire pressure
Thanks as always for the advise Bob.
Since this is my first track
experience I will need all the help I can
get.
> ----------
> From: Bob Fontana[SMTP:bfontana@securitytechnologies.com]
>
Reply To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 3:24 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tire pressure
>
> I run 40 PSI all the way
around. Yes, it causes wheelspin, but spinning
> lessens the chances
of chewing up the splines on your output shaft and
> other
>
possible driveline breakages. In cooler weather (below 60F), you
can
> lower
> the pressure to 35 or 36 to achieve the same amount of
spin. Others may
> argue that your times will suffer and I agree
with them. The most
> important
> thing, however, is being
able to drive it home afterwards.
>
> -Bob (ran 11.47 with 40 PSI
and pump gas)
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Theiss,
> > Charles
> > Sent: Friday, November 13,
1998 3:06 PM
> > To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
>
> Subject: Team3S: Tire pressure
> >
> >
> > Going
to the track. Would appreciate any advise on tire pressure.
>
Thanks
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> >
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 14:42:54 -0700
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgrade Cams
I thought that Bozz Speed has (or is in the
process of producing) an
upgraded cam for our cars. You may want to
check with Henry Yam @ RPM
henryyam@acsu.buffalo.edu ) for more
information.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 14:49:18 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Upgrade Cams
Bozz does have cams but rumor has it that people aren't
happy with them.
They probably work fine if you have thekir GT2835 blowers
and everything
else they've done to their car ;)
I know no further
details but it is worth investigating.
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Jeffrey Young
> Sent: Friday, November 13, 1998 2:43 PM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrade Cams
>
>
> I thought that Bozz
Speed has (or is in the process of producing) an
> upgraded cam for our
cars. You may want to check with Henry Yam @ RPM
> henryyam@acsu.buffalo.edu ) for more
information.
>
>
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
> www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 14:48:10 -0700
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Upgrade Cams
Barry, if you don't mind could you send me
your phone number so we could conduct a
conference call with the manufacture
to work out spec details.The approximate cost of
each raw cam is around 300
dollars. Then you would have to figure in cost production
cost. I estimate
the cost should be for a finished tested product will be around 850 a
set.
Just my guess. No real figures can be made yet.
Unfortunately,
their will be some upfront cost that the manufacture will have to
explain to
you. But, these cost are reasonable. However, some of these cost can
be
avoided if you know someone with a camshaft design
program.
>
>
> What is the approximate cost of the
camshafts? Would they be willing to
> keep costs low for a first few
test runs until a suitable profile is
>
determined?
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:36:27 -0800
From: "GT ALLEY" <thegtalley@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Upgrade Cams
Upgrade cams are NOT available as of yet. I
spoke to Yuki (owner) of
Bozzspeed and he confirmed that he has been thinking
about it but there are
some real fundamental issues at hand that need to be
dealt with before a
"real" set of cams can be worked on or produced. We have
also thought about
making cams, and have the resources to get the billet cam
blanks needed but
until the lifter issue is solved we will not go forward.
The reason is that
we cannot get in a big enough cam with the profile we
would like to see with
the hydraulic lifter set-up. We did some
experimentation, but was not all
that happy, so the quest continues until our
solid adjustable lifter set
becomes
available.
Thanks,
Brian@
The GT ALLEY
3/S Performance
Central
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar <rcousar@uswest.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Friday, November 13, 1998 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Upgrade
Cams
>Barry, if you don't mind could you send me your phone
number so we could
conduct a
>conference call with the manufacture to
work out spec details.The
approximate cost of
>each raw cam is around
300 dollars. Then you would have to figure in cost
production
>cost. I
estimate the cost should be for a finished tested product will be
around 850
a
>set. Just my guess. No real figures can be made
yet.
>
>Unfortunately, their will be some upfront cost that
the manufacture will
have to
>explain to you. But, these cost are
reasonable. However, some of these cost
can be
>avoided if you know
someone with a camshaft design
program.
>
>>
>>
>> What is the approximate
cost of the camshafts? Would they be willing to
>> keep costs low
for a first few test runs until a suitable profile is
>>
determined?
>>
>
>
>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #24
***************************
For unsubscribe
info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm