--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #15
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
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Team3S Digest Tuesday,
November 3 1998 Volume 01 : Number
015
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 15:32:40 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Free Flowing Exhausts
In a message dated 11/2/98 3:23:07 PM Eastern
Standard Time,
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
writes:
<< I think your car would spool up faster and maintain
slightly
higher boost than mine at redline due to the freer
flowing
exhaust. >>
With my experience of VR4/Stealth,
with a really freer flowing exhuast the
stock turbos will show less
boost.
btw, anyone have anything to say about my post on the
stock
turbos/motor/backrpressure mail? did you guys get it?
Mike
Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 120.7
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 02 Nov 1998 22:25:38 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Free Flowing Exhausts
> Nope, I'm down to 12.5 at 7k, maybe a
little less. The only
> folks on the list that are able to maintain
higher boost
> pressures at redline are those with 13G or larger
turbos.
Well, I think it's time for Mikael to pull the rubber intake from
the front
turbo and have a good look into it. Maybe he's also having the
13G's :) His car
is holding boost as well !
Roger
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 16:40:48 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Good launches
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cameron
Brandon [SMTP:cbran@dsinw.com]
Sent: Monday,
November 02, 1998 3:29 PM
To: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
Subject:
Re: Another bites the dust!
<lots of snips>
So, on lauches with AWD,
do you NEVER drop the clutch? Gary Z said don't drop the clutch with AWD
unless you
are rich... thats why im pretty conservative in my
lauches..
Cam
=======================================
Cameron...
Lots
of perspectives on this. The magazines that get the best times out of our cars
do their launches at
6500rpm. Seems like a lot of stress on the clutch and
drivetrain, so I checked with starnet for opinions when
I bought Beastie.
There seems to be a couple recommended approaches:
1. Slip & dump.
Basically, slip the clutch at a normal (say 2500) rpm until the car begins to
move, then
floor it and dump the clutch the rest of the way. I tried this a
few times, found it difficult to keep the
engine from bogging down.
2.
4500rpm dump. Run the revs up to 4500rpm and dump the clutch, then floor it.
I've used this a number of
times as well. Some odor of burning clutch
material. Good launches. No long term problems, but then I'm not
out drag
racing every night of the week.
Let's face it, when you start with 320hp
and AWD, you're putting a load on the clutch, transmission, and
drive
components with any launch. When you add mods and start racing, you add more
load (and risk).
I've cc'd the Team3S list on this response, you might
get a variety of other opinions. This is one of the
cases where we'll see
some difference between FWD and AWD, but again, everyone develops a "successful"
method
(one that gets them the launch they like, with a level of risk
they're willing to take). A clutch, at $700,
is not a big deal, at least not
compared to the cost of a tranny ($6K+). The clutch is a normal "wear and
tear" component, and will need replacing at some point.
When I was in
NJ a couple weeks ago and met Arty (1991 VR4), he described having a problem
with traction. He
can get rolling, then floor it and break all four tires
loose. That equates to a HP "problem" that most of us
would like to have.
Arty was the first to acknowledge that something is going to break. Oh
well.
ENJOY!!!
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 23:46:26 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Passenger airbag diconnect (Was Brake Wobble)
Ron-a-Roid
wrote:
>BTW; anybody disconnected the passenger airbag? Got a 5 year
old boy who
>don't fair well in the back seat and I'm gonna have to do
this, maybe a
>switch or something.
>
>Ron
I have
been thinking about the same thing. I too have a 5 year old boy.
While
the backseat works fine, it is more convenient for both of us when he
rides
up front. If anyone knows of, or have any sound theories on how
to
disconnect the passenger airbag, please post. This could be
either
permanent, or switchable like on newer trucks and
Jeeps.
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
5 yr old son wants me to save the car until
he gets his drivers licence
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 00:17:35 -0600
From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
Subject: Team3S:
Doublechecking - spark plugs
This is a multi-part message in MIME
format.
- ------=_NextPart_000_01E8_01BE06BF.5B24A140
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
I've got six NGK PFR6J-11 plugs and magnecor 8.5 wires
laying around. =
Planning to install this weekend. Just checking
to make sure these are =
THE plugs. I vaugely recall having seen "dual
tips" being mentioned??
Also, I currently have an FIPK installed and plan
on installing BC soon. =
Would .35 gapping be allright, or should I opt
closer to factory =
recommendation?
Sorry for discussing this old
subject, couldn't find any reference in my
=
archives.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT
"The Great
White"
- ------=_NextPart_000_01E8_01BE06BF.5B24A140
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"'
name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've got six NGK
PFR6J-11 plugs and magnecor 8.5 =
wires laying=20
around.
Planning to install this weekend. Just checking to =
make
sure=20
these are THE plugs. I vaugely recall having seen
"dual =
tips"=20
being
mentioned??</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Also, I currently have an FIPK installed and plan on
=
installing BC soon. Would .35 gapping be allright, or should
I opt =
closer=20
to factory
recommendation?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Sorry for discussing this old subject, couldn't find
=
any=20
reference in my
archives.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>'95 R/T TT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>"The Great
=
White"</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_01E8_01BE06BF.5B24A140--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 23:28:12 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Doublechecking - spark plugs
Thos are the right plugs. A gap of
0.035" should be fine. I am hoping 0.35
was a typo.
I run 0.034"
with stock plug wires at 20 psi without breaking
up.
Regards,
Barry
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Oskar
Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 11:18 PM
To: Team
3S
Subject: Team3S: Doublechecking - spark plugs
I've got six NGK
PFR6J-11 plugs and magnecor 8.5 wires laying around.
Planning to install this
weekend. Just checking to make sure these are THE
plugs. I
vaugely recall having seen "dual tips" being mentioned??
Also, I
currently have an FIPK installed and plan on installing BC soon.
Would .35
gapping be allright, or should I opt closer to
factory
recommendation?
Sorry for discussing this old subject,
couldn't find any reference in my
archives.
Thanks,
Oskar
'95
R/T TT
"The Great White"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:09:12 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?="
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Free Flowing Exhausts
- -----Original-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>Well, I
think it's time for Mikael to pull the rubber intake from the front
>turbo
and have a good look into it. Maybe he's also having the 13G's >:) His car is
holding boost as well !
Yup!! Tell me what to look for and I will do
it. There is one number that i can read on the Turbos but I think that that is
just the serial number and it doesn't say anything about the size (I
think).
I have my car at the Mitsu importer today, they are helping
me to put in my aftermarket clutch (good guys :), and even the mechanic there
say that my car holds boost better that any European (13G?) car they have
tried.
So Roger please tell me where I can find those
numbers.
/Mikael "strange boost" Akesson
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:51:41 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Re: Tuning on AWD dyno
> My car is blowing a bit of "dirty"
smoke from the exhaust (a friend of
> mine told me this while he was
following me) when I really plant my foot
> & sometimes when I stop I
can smell that rotten egg gas smell.
IMHO, you already got the answers.
This would indeed be a trial and error thing
but regapping (changing) the
plugs is the most recommended one. For the rotten
egg smell, try to change to
better gas or inspect the exhaust system for any
dead animal hanging around
(beep-beep)
> Are both of these problems symptoms of the engine not
being tuned properly?
The "puff" is somewhat normal for hi-po turbo cars.
The Porsche Turbos do this
usually from day one as well as the Italian
mini-turbo cars. My tips are darker
then black due to the fact that our cars
are running very rich. This can only be
tuned-in with an A/F controller, but
don't expect any horses for this.
> Could this be fixed on a AWD dyno
(the cars due to go in next week) or is
> there very little that the dyno
can tell you about the tuning of the car
> that would not already be
adjusted by the ECU?
You can tune any boost-controller, A/F device,
adjustable fuel pressure
regulater, etc. on the dyno but on our cars nothing
can be done. Like you said,
the ECU does this for you. What you can tell the
dyno-guy is to measure the
following:
- - O2 sensors voltages (if they are
working fine)
- - fuel pressure
- - oil pressure in the crankcase
- -
compression (can be done during replacing the plugs)
- - A/F ratio at the
exhaust
If anything is "not good" he should be able to tell
you.
And last but not least you can pull the IC-tubes from the y-pipe and
check for a
"more than normal" amount of oil sitting there. On mine thre was
so much oil
that went into the intake, got burnt and caused a blueish smoke
at the tips. The
y-pipe must be pulled anyways when the plugs will be
changed.
Hope this helps,
- -- Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:18:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Passenger airbag diconnect (Was Brake Wobble)
Aren't the automakers
supposed to make available such a disconnect switch?
Seems to me that (in the
US, at least) the DOT has a form you can fill out
which will force the
dealers to install the switch.
If no one else has more definitive info,
I'll take some time tonight and
dig out the details.
Dennis
Moore
stealth@kiva.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:42:29 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Passenger airbag diconnect (Was Brake Wobble)
Duh, how long did it take
for me to answer my own question?!? Why'd I
waste your time asking it
in the first place?!?
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/airbags/
According
to the links on this page, the switches for all model years of
the Stealth
were available 20 Oct, and 3000s should be available by
mid-December.
Oddly enough, one thing I didn't find was how to obtain the form you
need
to fill out to get the switch installation authorized...
Hope
this helps.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
On Tue, 3 Nov 1998,
Dennis Moore wrote:
> Aren't the automakers supposed to make available
such a disconnect switch?
> Seems to me that (in the US, at least) the DOT
has a form you can fill out
> which will force the dealers to install the
switch.
>
[snip]
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:55:28 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Free Flowing Exhausts
Mikael,
A week or so back I posted a
detailed description of how to identify 9Bs and
13Gs. Did you not see
the post? It was in direct response to one of
your
messages.
Roger should also have the exact method.
In any
case, there are part numbers cast into the housings. The
compressor
housing (silver side where air leaves to eventually enter the
engine) is the
most interesting number.
49177-024x0 are part numbers
for the TD04L-9B 6cm^2 where x may be 0, 1 or 2
49177-004x0 are part
numbers for the TD04L-13G 6cm^2 where x may be 0, 1
or
2
|
+- This digit on a 13G is ground down
"2" and stamped with
"0"
It will be very
obvious.
Also, if you look at the compressor wheel it will be immediately
obvious.
Look at Bob Fontanna's site for pictures of each of 9B, 13G and 15G
(which
look identical to 13G wheels other than the
diameter).
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Mikael Åkesson
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:09
AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Free Flowing Exhausts
>
>
>
-----Original-----
> From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
>
>Well, I think it's time for Mikael to pull the rubber intake
> from
the front
> >turbo and have a good look into it. Maybe he's also having
the
> 13G's >:) His car is holding boost as well
!
>
>
> Yup!! Tell me what to look for and I will do it. There
is one
> number that i can read on the Turbos but I think that that
is
> just the serial number and it doesn't say anything about the
size
> (I think).
>
> I have my car at the Mitsu importer
today, they are helping me
> to put in my aftermarket clutch (good
guys :), and even the
> mechanic there say that my car holds boost better
that any
> European (13G?) car they have tried.
>
> So Roger
please tell me where I can find those numbers.
>
> /Mikael "strange
boost" Akesson
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 11:04:09 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Re: Tuning on AWD dyno
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of R.G.
> Sent: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 1:52 AM
> To: chemist1@ozemail.com.au
> Cc:
Stealth/3000GT List
> Subject: Team3S: Re: Tuning on AWD
dyno
<snip>
> > Are both of these problems symptoms of
the engine not being
> tuned properly?
>
> The "puff" is
somewhat normal for hi-po turbo cars. The Porsche
> Turbos do this
>
usually from day one as well as the Italian mini-turbo cars. My
> tips are
darker
> then black due to the fact that our cars are running very
rich.
> This can only be
> tuned-in with an A/F controller, but
don't expect any horses for this.
I hope you are not suggesting that
tuning a rich mixture to a more optimal
mixture is not going to give the
engine more power. If so that is simply
not true.
An engine's
power is all about mixture. If the mixture is just right there
can be a
_huge_ difference in HP versus a situation where it is too lean or
too
rich. The mixture can be tuned with a VPC or MASC very nicely. The
AFC
is a poor general solution for hopefully (by now) obvious
reasons.
> > Could this be fixed on a AWD dyno (the cars due to go
in next
> week) or is
> > there very little that the dyno can
tell you about the tuning of the car
> > that would not already be
adjusted by the ECU?
>
> You can tune any boost-controller, A/F
device, adjustable fuel pressure
> regulater, etc. on the dyno but on our
cars nothing can be done.
> Like you said, the ECU does this for
you.
This is confusing. You say "but on our cars nothing can be
done". The
whole point of tuning any additional device (boost
controller, fuel
computer, ignition computer) is to make more power and this
definitely
helps. Yes, the ECU still does its thing but it doesn't
necessarily
outright override other properly designed tuning
devices.
<snip>
> -- Roger
I am hoping we're
just having a misunderstanding due to language
;)
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:58:22 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Boost Survey
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike
Chapleski [SMTP:mike.chapleski@ibm.net]
Sent:
Thursday, October 29, 1998 2:24 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Boost Survey
<snip>
So answer the following? All
measurements in third gear, under WOT.
What kind of BC are you using? GReddy
PRofec
What does it peak boost at? The BC is set for 1.1bar
(15.95psi)
What is the steady state boost through 5500 RPM? 1.1bar
(15.95psi)
What is the boost at 7000 RPM? drops to between .8bar & .9bar
(11.60psi & 13.05psi)
Interesting exercise, which created some
questions about the GReddy's fuzzy logic circuit. I made three runs
in third
gear under WOT, starting at 4000-4500rpm, all within fifteen minutes of each
other. Clear skies,
almost full moon, ambient temperature of 52 degrees.
These are really the first WOT (third gear) runs I've
made since I
re-programmed the unit. On the first run, the boost dropped rather rapidly (but
roughly linear)
from 1.1bar down to .6bar by redline. The second run held up
better, dropping down to between .7bar & .8bar
by redline. I tried it
one more time (as traffic allowed) and found much less drop (as shown above). Is
the
fuzzy logic still learning the system variables? Or? Engine temps, oil
pressure, road conditions, WOT, etc.
all remained constant. What changes (if
any) should (could) occur in 4th gear? I rarely get a stretch of open
freeway where I can run it much beyond 100mph.
BTW, in case others
have misplaced the formula, 1.0bar = 14.504psi
I should have my downpipe
& test pipe on within two weeks, I'll check it again.
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Tue, 03 Nov 1998 06:16:41 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Youngsters in Back Seat
Ron-a-roid wrote:
>
>
BTW; anybody disconnected the passenger airbag? Got a 5 year old boy who
>
don't fair well in the back seat and I'm gonna have to do this, maybe a
>
switch or something.
Is this physical or behavioral? Just curious,
since I was hoping
my daughter (currently 13 months) would be able to fit
back there
for quite some years to come. The front facing car seat
worked
well until recently, when she grew tall enough that her legs
went
past the edge of the seat (now there isn't enough leg room), but
once
she's in a booster seat and then just in the regular seat,
I thought there
would be ample room (ever see those little elem.
school chairs?). It
alse seems like such a cozy but comfortable
bucket seat would be safer than a
big, open, flat back seat like
in most cars. Thanx...
-Jim
-
--
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
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------------------------------
End
of Team3S Digest V1 #15
***************************
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info and FAQ, see our web page at http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm