--
From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S Digest V1 #14
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
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Team3S Digest
Monday, November 2 1998 Volume
01 : Number
014
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 01 Nov 1998 20:45:33 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject:
Team3S: Free Flowing Exhausts
OK, I think the list is down but I'm not
allowed to send a test message
so here is a real question. Someday, I
will be able to answer a
question.
Someday....
I have been thinking about this boost at
higher RPM issue and was
wondering. If Jim Mathews can hold 15 psi of
boost at 7000 RPM but I
can only hold 12.5 psi. Who has more
power. I think the natural answer
would be Jim's car, because it is
creating more boost. However, the
reason I only have 12.5 psi (I think)
is because I also have a Borla
exhaust and a test pipe. Jim is all
stock exhaust so he has more back
pressure. So what do you think?
I would think that with my freer
flowing exhaust I can get up to the higher
RPM's faster but is that
really helping me if my car starts to "loose" power
after 5500 RPM?
Thanks,
Mike
0018
'95 Stealth RT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Nov 1998 13:14:31 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake Wobble
I really doubt hard acceleration has anything to do with
it.
I had a similar circumstance on my 1994 VR4. Sometimes, and
only at speeds
above 80 mph or so, I would get horrible shake and shudder
when the brakes
were applied. Sometimes it would do it, other times it
wouldn't. Just as
soon as I thought I found a pattern, something would
change to screw up the
pattern.
Brake rotors will expand and
contract. In other words, they will warp out
of spec and can warp back
into spec.
In your case I'd be willing to bet that new rotors (not
reground) will
resolve the problem. Regrinding the rotors will not cure
warping and will
only bring otherwise well-cured rotors back into spec.
Sounds to me like
your rotors are warping in and out of spec, in which case
bringing them back
into spec will not resolve the real issue.
The
reason this happens is due to the manufacture process of most mass
produced
rotors. After casting the still very hot rotor is simply tossed
onto a
pile of rotors which are in varying stages of cooling. By luck of
the
draw the rotor may cool and set properly or with a built in warp.
The
rotor is then ground into spec and shipped. The rotor that cooled
with
internal warping will continue to be problematic thoughout its
lifetme.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Mike Chapleski
> Sent: Sunday, November 01, 1998 12:45
PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Brake
Wobble
>
>
> OK, I have a weird
problem with my brakes. I first noticed this
> problem when I
initially bought the car back in May. After accelerating
> from
0-100 MPH, I hit the brakes hard. I get an almost immediate wobble
>
in the brakes that just gets worse the more I stay on them. Now here
is
> the weird part. If I accelerate normally up to 100 and
slam on the
> brakes just as hard, I do not get any wobble. My first
reaction was it
> was some kind of drive train problem. Since it
only appeared after a
> hard acceleration run. Well I had the
transmission replaced in July and
> have not been doing much heavy
accelerating since then. Until last
>
night.
>
> Three times I got on it hard, but
did not use the brakes to slow
> down, just coasted. Then a forth
time I floored it up to 130 MPH then
> hit the brakes. I immediately
felt the wobble and it got a lot worse,
> to the point I was afraid
something was going to fall off. Well I
> cruised at 80 for about a
minute then slowly back up to 120 MPH. I once
> again hit the brakes
and they smoothly stopped the car. NO wobble. I
> do not have
any wobble when I drive the car under normal conditions.
> Only right
after I accelerate very hard. Any
ideas?
>
> BTW, all lug nuts are torqued to
100 ft-lbs. 21k miles, original
> Yoko tires, crappy stock chrome
rims.
>
> Mike C.
> 0018
> '95 Stealth RT
TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Nov 1998 13:33:17 -0800
From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake Wobble
- -----Original Message-----From: Mike
Chapleski
| OK, I have a weird problem with my
brakes. I first noticed this
|problem when I initially bought the car
back in May. After accelerating
|from 0-100 MPH, I hit the brakes
hard. I get an almost immediate wobble
-
-------snip-------
My first guess was warpage, but if that were the
problem, you'd have it even
when you didn't accelerate hard. I wonder
if it's not with the ABS,
"fighting", as it were, with an engine that's still
'pushing' a bit since
it's right after you got off hard throttle. Think
of it as dueling
computers, with the power to the wheels circuit giving
delayed feedback to
the ABS circuit, and/or vice versa. That's my
scenario, and I'm stickin' to
it...!
Question: Can the ABS be
turned off somehow? Then if you still had the
problem without it, you'd
know my scenario was wrong... And at least
eliminate that as a
possibility.
Forrest
BTW, the list wasn't down (although my
ISP posted an internet "burp" early
this AM); it looks like folks are
only posting when they actually have
something to say... What a
concept! :-) With an intelligent list like
this, I wouldn't plan
on seeing too many posts just to keep a 'noise level'
going... (It also
proves that everyone on "Team3S" actually has a life!)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 01 Nov 1998 23:09:55 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Free Flowing Exhausts
> If Jim Mathews can hold 15 psi of
boost at 7000 RPM but I
> can only hold 12.5 psi.
As far as I
remember, Jim spoke of a boost falling down to 13.1 psi (0.9 bars)
at 6500
(and maybe lower around 7000 too)
> Who has more power.
Both
about the same :)
> However, the reason I only have 12.5 psi (I think)
is because I also have
> a Borla exhaust and a test pipe.
My dyno
tests showed that I lost top end power but gained some tourque with the
ATR
dp/cat and Borla. Initially I found a loss as I switched the BC off
compared
with the setting two years ago. This lead me to the conclusion that
a big dp,
high flow cat and cat-back doesn't help alot for the stock setup.
It is an
investment for the future. Also if you want to have a real gain,
then I'm pretty
sure the pre-cats are the main restriction. Remember anyone
(I think Bob or
Brian) described the way a turbine can spool up (or kept
spooling). A difference
in pre- and after-pressure is needed. If the exhaust
after the turbine is
massively restricted and a situation can occur where the
pressure before and
after the turbine become equal then the wheel would stop
turning. Therefore a
very good flowing exhaust piping are our aim to keep the
turbine spooling and
therefore the compressor wheel. As the pre-cats are the
very first restrictions
I think only removing them will help the other
exhaust parts to become a
restriction. Only then their elimination makes
sense.
> I would think that with my freer flowing exhaust I can get up
to the higher
> RPM's faster but is that really helping me if my car
starts to "loose" power
> after 5500 RPM?
We don't know if the
exhaust parts are becoming an unwanted restriction due to
the fact they
create some resonances in the piping at different rpms. This is
also called
"backwaving" (what we call this in Europe :) The aftermarket exhaust
parts we
are using are not designed together (ok, the ATR full exhaust is
designed to
work together) Therefore the pipes design (without resonator case)
can create
this backwaves and hurt the performance.
I replaced the ATR dp/cat with
the stock setup due to a broken cat and have not
felt any power loss then.
The dyno outcome then did not showed any good numbers
due to the bad engine.
I plan to do the first dyno session with the new setup
with the stock dp/cat
and the Borla cat-back. I hope to find any precat
replacement until then
:)
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Nov 1998 19:00:12 -0500 (EST)
From: JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Mobil Synthetic Oil Questions ( Color after 3K miles)
Hi
guys,
I like this new list to start off but I have a few
really
interesting questions. Now as all you know the oils get pretty
dark in
the engine of the TT models. I was wondering how it is that the
oil would
breakdown to the point that the oil color is literally grey or
silver??
Close to the color of ball-bearing grease....??? Anyhow, this
is the
scenario in my brother's car and I can 't seem to understand it ...
I
understand that oil will break down but to the point of being
grey???? I
mean I understand that Mobil 1 commmercial are not exactly
scientific but
should syn. oils at least hold their own ??? If the oils
actually break
down, wouldn't it not harm the engine?? I am asking all
these questions
b/c compared to my V-8 on regular oil, the comparison of oil
color is so
different. I average a dark brown on the 3k interval and
drive my Jeep
pretty hard and I can't really understand it...Anyone care to
give me a
more indepth insight???
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep
is America's only real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Nov 1998 17:15:02 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Mobil Synthetic Oil Questions ( Color after 3K miles)
It is NOT normal
for oil, synthetic or fossil, to turn grey or silver.
Sounds like some
contaminant is getting into the oil. Synthetic oils break
down LESS
than fossil-based lubricants which is one of the reasons to use
them in the
first place.
He isn't using some funky additive or oil filter that
dispenses and additive
is he?
I have seen oil turn grey from water
contamination, but usually it gets
murky brown. If it truly takes on a
silvery color (sometimes with
"speckles" or silvery flecks) then there may
well be some internal component
that is wearing unusually fast. If this
is the case and the wearing part(s)
is magnetic, running a magnet through the
oil should leave particles on the
magnet. You may wish to dissect an
oil filter at the next change and see
what is inside. Sometimes this
can tell you a lot.
It is also possible to send an oil sample away for
analysis. I have seen
advertisements in the past for this service
charging anywhere from nothing
(promotional deals) to some nominal
amount. Might be worth it if you are
truly concerned, which personally
I would be. That sort of discoloration is
simply not the
norm.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of JEEPers
> Sent: Sunday, November 01, 1998 5:00 PM
> To:
Team 3S
> Subject: Team3S: Mobil Synthetic Oil Questions ( Color after 3K
miles)
>
>
> Hi guys,
> I like this new list to start
off but I have a few really
> interesting questions. Now as all you
know the oils get pretty dark in
> the engine of the TT models. I
was wondering how it is that the oil would
> breakdown to the point that
the oil color is literally grey or silver??
> Close to the color of
ball-bearing grease....??? Anyhow, this is the
> scenario in my
brother's car and I can 't seem to understand it ... I
> understand that
oil will break down but to the point of being grey???? I
> mean I
understand that Mobil 1 commmercial are not exactly scientific but
>
should syn. oils at least hold their own ??? If the oils actually
break
> down, wouldn't it not harm the engine?? I am asking all
these questions
> b/c compared to my V-8 on regular oil, the comparison of
oil color is so
> different. I average a dark brown on the 3k
interval and drive my Jeep
> pretty hard and I can't really understand
it...Anyone care to give me a
> more indepth
insight???
>
>
>
Frank
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 01 Nov 1998 19:12:08 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake Wobble
-
--------------D4D452CE8424618203473E3B
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
-----Original Message-----From: Mike Chapleski
>
>
| OK, I have a weird problem with my
brakes....
> -------snip-------
Bob Forrest
responded.....
> My first guess was warpage, (Barry King also
indicated the same in a separate post)
> but if that were the problem,
you'd have it even when you didn't accelerate hard. I
> wonder if
it's not with the ABS, "fighting", as it were, with an engine that's
still
> 'pushing' a bit since it's right after you got off hard
throttle. Think of it as
> dueling computers, with the power to the
wheels circuit giving delayed feedback to the
> ABS circuit, and/or vice
versa. That's my scenario, and I'm stickin' to it.!
>
Question: Can the ABS be turned off somehow?
Good question
Bob...and an equally good theory...does anyone know if the ABS can be
turned
off to test this?? There does seem to some problem with "chattering brakes"
on
these suckers at high speeds, and if it's a dualing computer scenerio,
then all we need
is a computer wiz signed up here to figure it out...or at
least send the results to
Mitsu (forget Chrysler) for them to figure out.
Anyone???? If it isn't , and is a plain
ole warpage problem, then what
is the consensus on the best after market replacement??
Darc
-
--------------D4D452CE8424618203473E3B
Content-Type: text/html;
charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<HTML>
<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE
TYPE=CITE>-----Original Message-----From: Mike
Chapleski
<P>| OK, I have a weird
problem with my brakes....</BLOCKQUOTE>
<BLOCKQUOTE
TYPE=CITE>-------snip-------</BLOCKQUOTE>
Bob Forrest
responded.....
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>My first guess was warpage,
<B>(Barry King also indicated
the same in a separate post)
</B>but if that were the problem, you'd have
it even when you didn't
accelerate hard. I wonder if it's not with
the ABS, "fighting", as
it were, with an engine that's still 'pushing'
a bit since it's right after
you got off hard throttle. Think of
it as dueling computers, with
the power to the wheels circuit giving delayed
feedback to the ABS circuit,
and/or vice versa. That's my scenario,
and I'm stickin' to it.!
Question: Can the ABS be turned off
somehow?</BLOCKQUOTE>
Good question Bob...and an equally good
theory...does anyone know if the
ABS can be turned off to test this?? There
does seem to some problem with
"chattering brakes" on these suckers at high
speeds, and if it's a dualing
computer scenerio, then all we need is a
computer wiz signed up here to
figure it out...or at least send the results
to Mitsu (forget Chrysler)
for them to figure out. Anyone???? If it
isn't , and is a plain ole
warpage problem, then what is the consensus on the
best after market replacement??
<P>Darc</HTML>
-
--------------D4D452CE8424618203473E3B--
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Nov 1998 22:19:11 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Free Flowing Exhausts
In a message dated 11/1/98 2:46:20 PM Eastern
Standard Time,
mike.chapleski@ibm.net
writes:
<< have been thinking about this boost at higher RPM issue
and was
wondering. If Jim Mathews can hold 15 psi of boost at
7000 RPM but I
can only hold 12.5 psi. Who has more
power.>>
More or less, a motor is a big air-pump. The quicker
and faster you can get
air through the pump, the more power you have.
So restrictions in the pump
will lead to less power and, in our case with
turbos, usually higher boost
levels.
Boost is a measurement of
backpressure. And the more backpressure
(restriction) something has the
less it will flow. When the air-pump is feed
X amount of air it creates
a certain amount of backpressure at any given rpm
(everything else remain
constant).
For this example I'll say a turbo is feeding the air,
and it is so small that
as the air pump spins faster, the turbo cannot keep a
steady rate of
backpressure through the air-pump.
At 3000rpm,
the air-pump will consume X amount of air. If you double that
rpm
(6000rpm) the air pump will consume twice as much air. Previously I
stated
that the turbo which is feeding the air-pump (motor) in this example
is very
small. So at 3000rpm it can supply the motor with enough air to
create enough
backpressure to be the equivalent of 20psi of boost. So
to create 20psi of
boost at 6000rpm, the air-pump would need to flow twice as
much air. But the
turbo is maxed out at 3000rpm, so it can only create
half the backpressure
that it does at 3000rpm at 6000rpm --- equalling 10psi
at 6000rpm.
Is the air-pump making less power at 6000rpm vs.
3000rpm? No. Because hp is
a function of the ability of the
air-pump to process air, and at 6000rpm the
motor is still consuming the same
amount of air from the turbo.. So the power
would be close to
equal.
Therefore, if an air-pump is able to create a backpressure of
15psi at
6000rpm, but a restriction is taken out of the air-pump (everything
else
remains constant) so it only creates a backpressure measurement of
12.5psi is
the air-pump making less power? No!
And that's why
boost is a BAD measurement of a cars power. The amount of
power your
motor makes has to do with many other variables...
And that's why I was able
to run numerous 12.1's with the stock turbos only
producing 10.5psi at
7000rpm.
Probalby confusing to read, but some good ideas I hope... I'm
sure someone
else can put it in better words :).
Mike Mahaffey - '94
Stealth tt Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 120.7
<< I think
the natural answer would be Jim's car, because it is creating
more
boost. However, the
reason I only have 12.5 psi (I think)
is because I also have a Borla
exhaust and a test pipe. Jim is
all stock exhaust so he has more back
pressure. So what do you
think? I would think that with my freer
flowing exhaust I can get
up to the higher RPM's faster but is that
really helping me if my car
starts to "loose" power after 5500 RPM? >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Sun, 1 Nov 1998 21:22:26 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Brake Wobble
The ABS can be disabled by removing the ABS fuse(s) in the
engine
compartment fuse box.
I have a hard time with the duelling
computers theory. ABS operates
primarily by feedback from wheel
sensors. The VR4 has a dual channel where
the front left and rear right
are on one channel, the other channel controls
the other two corners. A
bad wheel sensor which was tripping the ABS could
cause pulsating, but
violent shaking and wobbling just doesn't jive with
that scenario.
As
to replacement rotors, the KVR rotors currently on my '94 have
performed
flawlessly for the 15K miles I've had them on the car, and I like
to use the
brakes. I also opted for the KVR carbon metallic pads.
The combination
works very well especially once warmed up a bit.
There
are a number of other options. I have heard several complaints
now
about PowerSlot rotors. I have heard only one complaint about
KVRs.
If you want really good brakes, especially if you have a 91-93 VR4,
talk to
Brad Bidell.
Barry
- -----Original
Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Sent: Sunday,
November 01, 1998 8:12 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Wobble
Question: Can the ABS be turned off
somehow?
Good question Bob...and an equally good theory...does anyone
know if the ABS
can be turned off to test this?? There does seem to some
problem with
"chattering brakes" on these suckers at high speeds, and if it's
a dualing
computer scenerio, then all we need is a computer wiz signed up
here to
figure it out...or at least send the results to Mitsu (forget
Chrysler) for
them to figure out. Anyone???? If it isn't , and is a
plain ole warpage
problem, then what is the consensus on the best after
market replacement??
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 00:38:46 -0500
From: "Ron-a-roid" <rtetetet@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brake Wobble
>Question: Can the ABS be turned off
somehow? Then if you still had the
>problem without it, you'd know
my scenario was wrong... And at least
>eliminate that as a
possibility.
You could always pull the ABS fuse to test the
theory...
BTW; anybody disconnected the passenger airbag? Got a 5 year
old boy who
don't fair well in the back seat and I'm gonna have to do this,
maybe a
switch or something.
Ron
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 00:50:16 -0500
From: "Ron-a-roid" <rtetetet@email.msn.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Mobil Synthetic Oil Questions ( Color after 3K miles)
>He
isn't using some funky additive or oil filter that dispenses
and
additive
>is he?
THIS SOUNDS LIKE GRAPHITE. (sorry for
caps) There were and are a bunch of
additives that contain graphite the was
supposed to add to friction
reduction. The problem I saw was that it would
build up and clog things or
clog the filter. It takes a LONG time to work
graphite out. My dad used to
get this stuff called Krex that had graphite in
it and it still turned the
oil silvery Grey for a year and a half after he
stopped using it.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 02 Nov 1998 20:09:49 +1100
From: andrew clark <chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
Subject:
Team3S: Tuning with AWD Dyno
Please forgive the basic nature of this
post, but I would greatly
appreciate any thoughts.
At the moment my VR4 is
running quite smoothly however sometimes its a
little difficult to start when
warm, ie it takes a few cranks & its
producing that rotten egg gas smell
on occasions. A friend of mine was
following me tonight & when I planted
my foot he said he saw a stream of
" dirty looking smoke " ( not black )
coming out of the exhaust.
The car has done about 80K km & is stock
except for a replacement K&N
element for the stock air box & also
some cold air induction running to
the box.
In a couple of weeks I'm
getting the boost increased at a performance
car shop at which time the car
will be set up on a AWD dyno.
My question is this. I know that the rotten egg
gas smell is a result of
the car being out of tune in some way, but is the
smoke from the exhaust
caused by a similar problem? Also can the car be
"retuned" on the dyno &
is there much that can be altered on the car as a
result of using the
dyno that would not already be fixed by the cars on board
computer? I
have been under the impression that these sort of high tec
cars
virtually tune themselves.
BTW when the the air filter &
induction was done the ECU was reset.
Thanks
Andrew
Australia
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 03:10:09 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:
Tuning with AWD Dyno
Quite often the rotten egg smell accompanies a
failing or failed catalytic
converter. Might be worth
investigating. If the cat has failed look for
other problems too.
Cats can last a very long time in a healthy car and
typically fail due lazy
or failed O2 sensors, an extremely rich mixture or
oil in the exhaust.
In the case of our cars, a very rich mixture would
indicate yet another
problem since the fuel maps are fixed from the factory.
A puff or two of
dirty smoke isn't unusual from these and many turbocharged
cars due to the
generous enrichment that occurs during acceleration.
Continuous dirty smoke
may be indicative of a failed cat amongst other
things. What color are
your tailpipes? Is there a high amount of soot?
Your tuner should be
able to tell you a lot is the car is not healthy.
Retuning fuel delivery
is not easy without adding some sort of fuel computer
or modifying the
ECU.
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of andrew clark
> Sent: Monday, November 02, 1998 2:10 AM
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S: Tuning with AWD Dyno
>
>
> Please forgive the
basic nature of this post, but I would greatly
> appreciate any
thoughts.
> At the moment my VR4 is running quite smoothly however
sometimes its a
> little difficult to start when warm, ie it takes a few
cranks & its
> producing that rotten egg gas smell on occasions. A
friend of mine was
> following me tonight & when I planted my foot he
said he saw a stream of
> " dirty looking smoke " ( not black ) coming out
of the exhaust.
> The car has done about 80K km & is stock except for
a replacement K&N
> element for the stock air box & also some cold
air induction running to
> the box.
> In a couple of weeks I'm
getting the boost increased at a performance
> car shop at which time the
car will be set up on a AWD dyno.
> My question is this. I know that the
rotten egg gas smell is a result of
> the car being out of tune in some
way, but is the smoke from the exhaust
> caused by a similar problem? Also
can the car be "retuned" on the dyno &
> is there much that can be
altered on the car as a result of using the
> dyno that would not already
be fixed by the cars on board computer? I
> have been under the impression
that these sort of high tec cars
> virtually tune themselves.
> BTW
when the the air filter & induction was done the ECU was reset.
>
Thanks
> Andrew
> Australia
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our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:31:37 -0500 (EST)
From: JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Oil mystery update (Was RE: Mobil 1 syn)
Thanx for the answers. I
just remembered that he used to put in Slick 50
when the product just came
out. He has been a Mobil 1 diet since the last
several oil changes and
Vavloine Syn prior to that. I guess the oil might
be cleaning out some
of that Slick 50 stuff that was leftover. I guess, I
will have to cut
the filter the next time a oil change is due.
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep
is America's only real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 07:55:26 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: Silver/grey oil
- -----Original Message-----
From: JEEPers
[SMTP:fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu]
Sent:
Sunday, November 01, 1998 4:00 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Mobil
Synthetic Oil Questions ( Color after 3K miles)
<snip>
I was
wondering how it is that the oil would breakdown to the point that the oil color
is literally grey or
silver??
<more snip>
...Anyone care to give
me a more indepth insight???
<end of snip>
Whoa...
Sounds
like a danger sign to me. The only time I've seen oil turn anything other than
brown to black is when
there's water in the oil. Then it turns silver/gray.
There's often some sign of foam at the dipstick as well.
Bad news. Time to
check the head gasket.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 02 Nov 1998 10:47:13 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh <middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Tuning with AWD Dyno
>
> At the moment my VR4 is
running quite smoothly however sometimes its a
> little difficult to start
when warm, ie it takes a few cranks & its
> producing that rotten egg
gas smell on occasions.
snip
>
> In a couple of weeks I'm
getting the boost increased at a performance
> car shop at which time the
car will be set up on a AWD dyno.
snip
One thing you may want to
check is the condition of the spark plugs. This might help
with the
'hard to start' problem, and you'll want to decrease the gap anyway if
you
will be increasing boost in the future. Pull the front 3 plugs for
inspection and
check their gap. Consider replacing them with NGK double
platinums gapped around 0.032
- - 0.035 inch if you don't plan to exceed
16psi. Some folks go at low as 0.028 for
18+psi. Also, if you're
going to pull the plenum to replace the plugs, consider
replacing the plug
wires if they have 60K+ miles on them.
- --
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 2 Nov 1998 14:05:18 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tuning with
AWD Dyno
That's good advice. You should prepared to change the plenum
& throttle body
gaskets too.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated
11/2/98 10:48:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
middaugh@omega.gat.com
writes:
<< ubj: Re: Team3S: Tuning with AWD Dyno
Date:
11/2/98 10:48:15 AM Pacific Standard Time
From: middaugh@omega.gat.com (Ken
Middaugh)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>
At the moment my VR4 is running quite smoothly however sometimes its
a
> little difficult to start when warm, ie it takes a few cranks
& its
> producing that rotten egg gas smell on
occasions.
snip
>
> In a
couple of weeks I'm getting the boost increased at a performance
>
car shop at which time the car will be set up on a AWD
dyno.
snip
One thing you may want to check
is the condition of the spark plugs. This
might help
with the
'hard to start' problem, and you'll want to decrease the gap anyway
if
you
will be increasing boost in the future. Pull the front 3
plugs for
inspection and
check their gap. Consider replacing
them with NGK double platinums gapped
around 0.032
- 0.035 inch if
you don't plan to exceed 16psi. Some folks go at low as
0.028
for
18+psi. Also, if you're going to pull the plenum to replace
the plugs,
consider
replacing the plug wires if they have 60K+ miles
on them.
--
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Mon, 02 Nov 1998 21:23:46 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Free Flowing Exhausts
Mike Chapleski wrote:
>
> I have been thinking about this boost at higher
RPM issue and was
> wondering. If Jim Mathews can hold 15 psi of
boost at 7000 RPM but I
> can only hold 12.5 psi.
Nope, I'm down to
12.5 at 7k, maybe a little less. The only
folks on the list that are
able to maintain higher boost
pressures at redline are those with 13G or
larger turbos.
I think your car would spool up faster and maintain
slightly
higher boost than mine at redline due to the freer
flowing
exhaust.
-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
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