--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #8
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Monday, October 26 1998         Volume 01 : Number 008




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:34:00 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: boost lag

Okay, this is concurrent with my understanding.  When you said "alternate"
the actuators I thought you were saying it would open one wastegate, then
the other.  This actually would not be a bad idea (maybe) since you could
likely control boost more precisely by making one turbo do more work than
the other.  It's a theory ;)

Anyway, two smaller solenoids does make sense.  They can probably be made to
react more quickly than the single larger solenoid used by every other EVC
out there.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of R.G.
> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 1998 12:21 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: boost lag
>
>
> > In order for the DSBC to control each actuator separately,
> > there would have to be two separate solenoids (which as I
> understand it, the
> > DSBC indeed does).
>
> The DSBC indeed has two solenoid valves BUT they are connected in
> parallel. This
> means they are quicker in opening and closing than a big one that
> can handle the
> same pressure. This also allows Blitz to stitch them on and off
> more quickly
> than others, allowing to alternate (opening and closing) the
> wastegates in a
> better and faster way (frequency) than others.
>
> > Each solenoid would have to have an completely separate
> > and independant access to one and only one actuator.
> > The last time I asked about this you  said it was not plumbed this way.
>
> Yes, the Blitz DSBC has only one pressure input and one output
> (two solenoids in
> one box)
>
> > It must be plumbed this way in order to control each actuator
> individually.
>
> I agree, but as we have turbos of the same size different actuation of the
> wastegates doesn't make sense to me.
>
> Maybe I used the wrong terms when I tried to describe the way the
> DSBC relieves
> the pressure to the wastegate actuators. As it has smaller
> solenoid valves it is
> able to "alternate" the wastegates by open and close them very
> quickly. Even due
> to the design I think the valves are able to reduce the pressure
> in the actuator
> lines compared to the feeding line by alternating the solenoids
> very quickly. I
> think I'll hook up the electrical boost-sensors to the IN and OUT
> lines to check
> this out. Also my diag tool will be able to measure the voltage
> that goes to the
> solenoids of any controller so everybody can record the way his
> setup works.
>
> > If you let me beta test your logger I'll give you a whole bunch
> of signal
> > specifications ;)
>
> Hehe, the prototype will be my own car and I currently haven't
> decided what the
> baby can do at the end :) I'll let you know when it becomes to live.
>
> Cheers, Roger

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:48:49 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Smoke from pipes

I suspect the black smoke very commonly seen coming from the tailpipes of
otherwise healthy turbocharged engines is probably due to the incomplete
combustion of the suddenly enriched fuel charge that occurs when the
throttle is initially tromped upon.


Regards,

Barry

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:56:04 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update

In a message dated 98-10-24 17:27:48 EDT, you write:

<< Since tuning in the MASC I haven't been reaching above 98% (typically hit
 92-94% -- still too high IMO) so I would not have experienced this
 situation.  Kind of a nice safety feature actually. >>

Anyone here use larger injectors than 550/560's?  I'm running 99% injector at
only 17psi with my 560's.

Mike - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:36:56 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

All,

    We'll I finally got my TRE MASC pretty well tuned in (still doesn't Idle
well, but next week I'm going to test two more chips for TRE and we should
have a final version ready in two or so weeks:) so I went to the track to see
if I gained any extra power. 

First run I ran low boost (17.5-18psi) to make sure everything was okay.
Launched a little low, man I hate when I do that!, so I bogged off the line.
But I still managed a 1.87 60-foot.  Didn't speed shift (usually I do)
considering it was my first track pass with the MASC and I wanted to make sure
everything was okay.  When I shifted into third I had a good chance to look at
the display unit that comes with the MASC and everything looked good.. 18psi,
EGT's mid 1600's, 02's .86, injector duty a little high at 99%. Ended up
running 11.81 at 120.7mph.

Second run, even though the injector duty cycle was at 99%, I decided to run a
little more boost.  At 20psi, in 2nd gear the car violently hit 99% injector
duty and shut the fuel down.  Damn...  ran a 20something at 38mph..lol!

Third run backed the boost down to 19psi, peaked out the injectors in 3rd gear
this time and ended up with a 13.38 at 83mph.

What does all that mean?  We'll my best mph before the MASC was 119.96.  First
and only full pass with the MASC I saw 120.7mph.  So the car is definatly
making more power! :)  Only problem is it is making TOO MUCH power for my
560cc injectors so I'm going to have to shell out some more $$$ for larger
injectors..  Thinking about trying something around 650cc's..

So, in short, I am VERY happy with my TRE MASC :).  To the point I am
considering the possibility of becoming an authorized dealer for the MASC and
helping others install/tune their cars! 

Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:53:28 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

Mike, I'm confused. I ran my 15g's with hks 550cc inj/vpc at 23lbs and I had
leaned the mixtures. I'm not short of fuel. I think you may be getting ecu
fuel cut. Why would you need larger injectors? Are you sure your not starving
the settings?
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 10/25/98 9:38:05 PM !!!First Boot!!!, LotoBoost@aol.com
writes:

<<
 Second run, even though the injector duty cycle was at 99%, I decided to run
a
 little more boost.  At 20psi, in 2nd gear the car violently hit 99% injector
 duty and shut the fuel down.  Damn...  ran a 20something at 38mph..lol!
 
 Third run backed the boost down to 19psi, peaked out the injectors in 3rd
gear
 this time and ended up with a 13.38 at 83mph.
 
 What does all that mean?  We'll my best mph before the MASC was 119.96.
First
 and only full pass with the MASC I saw 120.7mph.  So the car is definatly
 making more power! :)  Only problem is it is making TOO MUCH power for my
 560cc injectors so I'm going to have to shell out some more $$$ for larger
 injectors..  Thinking about trying something around 650cc's..
 
 So, in short, I am VERY happy with my TRE MASC :). >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 23:08:54 +0100
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@ibm.net>
Subject: Team3S: Tuning the Blitz (New results)

    Well after five months I finally got around to tweaking my Blitz
DSBC today.  Before I was running a gain of 25, ratio of 50 and the
limiter set at 0 (off).  With those settings I was getting a boost spike
to 16-17 psi then dropping to 14 psi through 5500 RPM.  After that it
was a slow drop to 10 psi at 6800 RPM.

    I collected all the posts and the detailed instructions (yea right!)
and set out for a little cruise on the Autobahn.  Initially I had the
following:
Gain 30
Ratio 45
Limiter -10
Scramble  P=10, C=3  (which is a ratio of 10 for three seconds I think)

    For all settings I was going about 70 mph in third when I would
floor it all the way to 6800, then shift.  So all these figures are for
third gear.  I was only getting 12.5 psi out of this setup with a double
peak at 16 psi.  Meaning it would go to 16, drop to about 13 then bounce
off 16 again before settling back to 12.5 psi.  I assumed the double
peak was because of the scramble so I turned that off.  After a little
more testing I came to the following figures:

Gain 33
Ratio 48
Limiter -5
Scramble Off
    Once again flooring it in third, I would get an immediate jump to
15.5 psi, then quickly drop to 14 psi and stay there till 5500.  Then it
would slowly drop to 12 psi at 6800 RPM!  So this is 2 psi better than I
could get in any other setting.  And it sort of proves out Roger and
Mikael's contention that the Blitz will maintain psi after 5500 RPM.  I
think if I do a little more testing I can get it to maintain 14 psi at
6800 RPM.  I tried bringing the limiter down to -1 but that did not seem
to have much affect.  The instructions are a little (OK a lot) foggy on
how the limiter ratio is calculated (any insights Roger?).  But I am
still very happy with these numbers.
    To be honest I was a believer it the theory that the European turbos
were different than the U.S. models.  I know that Jim and Roger compared
numbers on the  turbo housings, but I think the wheels could be
different.  Which would make sense, because the European model needs to
be able to sustain the very high Autobahn speeds.  Where as the U.S.
model just needs the quick acceleration.
    Another interesting thing I noticed this evening when I was driving
home.  I was in fifth @ 65 mph and <3000 RPM.  I punched it and  heard
the warning beep go off every three seconds or so.  So I slowed down to
65 again and floored it, this time watching the boost guage.  The boost
bounced between 12 and 15.5 psi about four times until the RPMs reached
3500, then it stuck at 14 psi.  Roads were a wet it was dark, traffic,
so I was not about to run it up to redline :)  Any ideas on this
behavior, and most importantly is it bad for the car?  Overall I think
it was a successful day.

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
K&N, test pipe, Borla exhaust, Magnecor wires, Centerforce DF clutch,
2nd Getrag, Blitz DSBC, plug gap 0.042, Alamo downpipe on the way.

P.S.  Now if the roads would just dry enough for me to try Jim's
G-Tech.  Probably have to wait another five months for that.  :)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 17:10:55 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Clutch (sepcifically new RPS)

Barry,

This is great news!  I thought they had stopped this project or
something like that.  I'm guessing that in a couple of weeks everyone
else should be able to get this clutch.
 Those 60 foot times are great.  1.5 - Wow!  I guess if everything goes
as predicted I know what my next clutch is going to be...

Michael,,

Another clutch I forgot to mentioned last time, is the racing/street
clutch by EXEDY.  I know of only one 3S car with it and he just
installed it so we'll see what happens.  Also make sure you check-out
Bob Fontana's webpage for the custom clutch he uses.  I believe it is
someplace in Florida that manufactures them.  Not sure if it's just the
disk or the pressure plate as well. 

Later,

Jose
92 TT

"Barry E. King" wrote:
>
> I have the latest verion of the RPS kevlar clutch in a box.  This new
> version is the final version (barring any new problems) which supposedly
> will be available to the general public.
>
> It looks good in real life.  It is also very light which should make it
> easier on the synchros.
>
> The week old version shipped to me is supposedly one generation beyond the
> clutch currently in the RPS 700 RWHP Supra TT which uses the same diameter
> friction plate.
<SNIP>
> 60' times on the Supra were consistent 1.5 with no top end slip.  That's on
> a 700 HP RWD car with wrinkle wall slicks squeezing 100 shot of nitrous out
> of the hole.  We'll see how it holds up to the demands of AWD with more than
> a few HP behind it.
>
<SNIP>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:31:52 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: Clutch (sepcifically new RPS)

It sounds good yes.  The only problem is I am the only 3/S owner with this
particular clutch comnpound and my car is down so I cannot test it...not
cool.  There is at least one other out there with an earlier compound.

Someone else willing to test it needs to get RPS to give them a good deal on
one.  That way I can decide if I will put it in or not ;)  j/k  It is going
in unless ROb calls me and tells me something that convinces me otherwise.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of josesini
> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 1998 3:11 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Clutch (sepcifically new RPS)
>
>
> Barry,
>
> This is great news!  I thought they had stopped this project or
> something like that.  I'm guessing that in a couple of weeks everyone
> else should be able to get this clutch.
>  Those 60 foot times are great.  1.5 - Wow!  I guess if everything goes
> as predicted I know what my next clutch is going to be...
>
> Michael,,
>
> Another clutch I forgot to mentioned last time, is the racing/street
> clutch by EXEDY.  I know of only one 3S car with it and he just
> installed it so we'll see what happens.  Also make sure you check-out
> Bob Fontana's webpage for the custom clutch he uses.  I believe it is
> someplace in Florida that manufactures them.  Not sure if it's just the
> disk or the pressure plate as well.
>
> Later,
>
> Jose
> 92 TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 18:51:05 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

In a message dated 10/25/98 4:55:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, Aso8@aol.com
writes:

<< Mike, I'm confused. I ran my 15g's with hks 550cc inj/vpc at 23lbs and I
had
 leaned the mixtures. I'm not short of fuel. I think you may be getting ecu
 fuel cut. Why would you need larger injectors? Are you sure your not starving
 the settings? >>

I think I am getting ECU fuel cut also.  The problem I am having is to run the
fuel I need (above 17-18psi) to keep the EGT's from getting up into the
piston-melting 1700deg. plus range, I need to run the injectors all the way up
to 99% duty cycle.  But when the ECU see's the need for >99% duty it shuts
things down.  So to get around the problem, I either need to try a FPR and
then lean out the air-flow a hair, or just go with larger injectors (that wont
need to be driven at 99% duty cycle to support the kind of hp I'm making).

Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 20:15:05 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

Imho, your in need of a G-Force ECU to remove the Fuel cut limiter. Getting
larger injectors is not the cure. I here the DSM guys bypass the fuel cut
limiter (trick it) although I'm not up on the specifics. This may be a less
expensive alternative. But with the 550cc's I still can run rich with the
15g's and I'd hate to think of larger injectors without MUCH larger turbos.
Maybe someone can explain the bypass to see if it would remove your problem.
Then you can determine if you'd still need the injectors. I've been there. The
ecu is the way to go.
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 10/26/98 12:16:14 AM !!!First Boot!!!, LotoBoost@aol.com
writes:

<< bj: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)
 Date: 10/26/98 12:16:14 AM !!!First Boot!!!
 From: LotoBoost@aol.com
 Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
 
 In a message dated 10/25/98 4:55:22 PM Eastern Standard Time, Aso8@aol.com
 writes:
 
 << Mike, I'm confused. I ran my 15g's with hks 550cc inj/vpc at 23lbs and I
 had
  leaned the mixtures. I'm not short of fuel. I think you may be getting ecu
  fuel cut. Why would you need larger injectors? Are you sure your not
starving
  the settings? >>
 
 I think I am getting ECU fuel cut also.  The problem I am having is to run
the
 fuel I need (above 17-18psi) to keep the EGT's from getting up into the
 piston-melting 1700deg. plus range, I need to run the injectors all the way
up
 to 99% duty cycle.  But when the ECU see's the need for >99% duty it shuts
 things down.  So to get around the problem, I either need to try a FPR and
 then lean out the air-flow a hair, or just go with larger injectors (that
wont
 need to be driven at 99% duty cycle to support the kind of hp I'm making).
  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 20:56:13 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

In a message dated 10/25/98 8:34:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, Aso8@aol.com
writes:

<< Imho, your in need of a G-Force ECU to remove the Fuel cut limiter. Getting
 larger injectors is not the cure. I here the DSM guys bypass the fuel cut
 limiter (trick it) although I'm not up on the specifics. This may be a less
 expensive alternative. But with the 550cc's I still can run rich with the
 15g's and I'd hate to think of larger injectors without MUCH larger turbos.
 Maybe someone can explain the bypass to see if it would remove your problem.
 Then you can determine if you'd still need the injectors. I've been there.
The
 ecu is the way to go. >>

The reason why I believe I need more fuel is because to keep my EGT's from
unsafe levels I have to run 99% injector duty cycle above 18psi.  I could get
an ECU w/o fuel cut and run more boost, but then I'd be running way lean..
and chance melting a few valves and pistons..

Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:12:25 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

I disagree with the injector comment.

Assuming Mike has the appropriate mixture and he's still hitting 99% IDC,
that to me, is a clear indication that not enough fuel is being delivered
for the amount of air.  Given a fuel pump and FPOR up to the task, larger
injectors are indicated.  This also presumes the airmeter is not too small
for the application.

The way the MASC works is by converting the analog voltage signal from the
Pro-M hotwire airmeter into a digitalfrequency that the ECU expects.  The
stock MAS sends a frequency, not a voltage.  If the airmeter were
incorrectly calibrated, or the frequency generated were incorrect for the
given airflow, the ECU may detect fuel cut.

I had never hit fuel cut until I started messing with the MASC.  I wanted to
see how much it took to force fel cut.  I added to the airflow signal up top
(thereby also increasing fuel) just to see what it would do.  Sure enough I
hit fuel cut.  I was way too rich but I wanted to see where it happened.
There is plenty of room for tuning with the MASC ROM I have so accomodating
much larger injectors shouldn't be a problem.

There are a couple of ways to defeat fuel cut, the MASC itself is one of
them assuming you are running rich when you hit fuel cut.  At 99% IDC,
however, assuming a correct AFR, new injectors are indeed indicated.  Fuel
pressure and flow is also something to check first, of course, but I have
maintained for a while that 550s (560s in Mike's case) are too small for a
15G application.

There's a horribly long formula to accurately calculate injector size but my
figures come up with 620.  650s would be safe.  Anyone running 720s is well
ahead of the game.

Fuel cut is a safety feature imposed when some airflow threshold is exceeded
as detected by the ECU.  The fuel maps only go up to certain airflow figures
so as a safety feature the ECU shuts down the fun.  It is an indication that
something isn't right.  Defeating fuel cut may be appropriate in some cases
but it certainly should not be the first course of action.  Mike is already
running appropriately lean so he can't reduce the airflow signal to the ECU
(which would reduce fuel cut) any more than he already has.

The DSM tricks work on many other cars too.  You put a 10 KOhm potentiometer
on the barometric pressure sensor to trick the ECU into thinking it is at a
higher elevation and therefore has less oxygen in the air thereby increasing
the fuel cut threshold.  You could also do something siumilar with the IAT
sensor.  Another trick is to change the metering screw in the factory MAS
which as I understand it allows more unmetered air through, leaning out the
mixture at a given airflow, again increasing the fuel cut limit.

Both of these are hacks that should only be tried once you are certain that
the engine is operating rich.  If that were the case then I would be
inclined to aggree that the right thing is to fix the ECU.  This doesn't
seem to apply to Mike's situation.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, October 25, 1998 6:15 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)
>
>
> Imho, your in need of a G-Force ECU to remove the Fuel cut
> limiter. Getting
> larger injectors is not the cure. I here the DSM guys bypass the fuel cut
> limiter (trick it) although I'm not up on the specifics. This may
> be a less
> expensive alternative. But with the 550cc's I still can run rich with the
> 15g's and I'd hate to think of larger injectors without MUCH
> larger turbos.
> Maybe someone can explain the bypass to see if it would remove
> your problem.
> Then you can determine if you'd still need the injectors. I've
> been there. The
> ecu is the way to go.
> Arty 91 VR-4

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 00:25:54 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

I'm not proclaiming myself an expert on the fuel system, but by my
calculations (in most situations) you should not be hitting fuel cut at
18psi w/ 560s or even 550s.  My opinion is that your injectors are not
getting enough fuel rates.

Here are some things I would check before replacing the injectors with
650s or bigger:

Sorry for mentioning the obvious but I just have to, I am assuming you
have replaced the fuel pump w/ the 369Lph @ 70psi or something like
that.

If so, then do the following:

1) Measure the fuel pressure (or fuel flow rates) before and after the
fuel filter.  If a drastic decrease in pressure is found, you either
have a supper clogged filter or most commonly one of the eyebolts that
connect to the fuel filter is somewhat miss aligned and is restricting
the fuel lines.  To align it count how many turns it takes to unscrew
it, then look where the hole in the eyebolt is and where you want it to
be pointing, and then reverse count the number of turns and you should
know where to place it when you start screwing it back on.

2) Measure the voltage at the fuel pump.  If it's way less than 10v or
so, something is wrong with the wiring.  Between 10 and 12volts is
normal due to the poor wires in the stock system.

3) there might be another problem, but I do not know how to fix it nor
how to check for it.   Maybe some one in the list can give light to a
way of detecting and/or fixing it.
The 3/S twin turbo car's fuel system has two modes of operation:  A
cruising/idling mode and a high fuel rate mode.  In the cruising mode,
the voltage that goes to the fuel pump  is diverted by the ECU to go
through a resistor thus yielding lower fuel rates coming out of the fuel
pump.  But during heavy engine loads (such as WOT) the resistor is
bypassed (as controlled by the ECU) and the fuel pump delivers higher
flow rates.  Maybe in your car, the system is stock going through the
resistor.  I would think the service manuals would mention something
about this.  Unfortunately mine are with my mechanic, just in case...
Hopefully he won't need to use them!  :)

I hope this helps some.

Jose
92 R/T TT

LotoBoost@aol.com wrote:
>
><SNIP>
>
> The reason why I believe I need more fuel is because to keep my EGT's from
> unsafe levels I have to run 99% injector duty cycle above 18psi.  I could get
> an ECU w/o fuel cut and run more boost, but then I'd be running way lean..
> and chance melting a few valves and pistons..
>
> Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 23:01:28 -0800
From: "GT_ALLEY" <thegtalley@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: boost/ lag/turbo theory

Hi guys,
I  jumped into this thread, mid-stream, but Jack has hit this one right on
the mark!!!! Compressor map and correct Turbine/Compressor combination for a
given application are key...Good job Jack!!

This is VERY refreshing to see the commitment to REAL issues and intelligent
discussions. Applause to you all!!

I will be lurking, most of the time due to time constraints, but if anyone
want's to ask me anything directly, please feel free.

Go, PRO-LIST!

Brian@
The GT ALLEY
3/S Performance Central

- -----Original Message-----
From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 9:27 AM
Subject: Team3S: RE: boost/ lag/turbo theory


>I have several disagreements with Dave on this :)  as outlined:
>
>Dave Allison wrote:
>> I think you're confusing what specs conveying. A 9B
>> turbo does not 'flow 265cfm', nor 15G 'flow 404cfm'.
>> CFM is airflow rate. Airflow rate is closely tied to engine RPM
>> What you quoted mean is stock 9B produce 15psi at
>> 265cfm, a lower engine rpm and quickly attainable number. A 15G will
>> require 404cfm from the car to reach 15psi of boost.
>
>A 9B doesn't have to be FLOWING 265cfm to "reach" 15psi PRESSURE.  A 15G
>doesn't
>"require" to be flowing 404cfm to "reach" 15psi PRESSURE.
>
>If 15G car is at 3000rpm and you have it floored, in 3rd gear, as we all
>know we can reach UNGODLY boost pressures (>20psi) BUT CLEARLY the
>engine is pumping WAY too slowly to accept a total of 808cfm = 600+hp!
>We are NOT making 600hp at 3000rpm! so we are NOT using 808cfm YET WE
>HAVE 20+psi boost.  The turbine is spinning relatively midrange speed,
>being held back by ALL THAT PRESSURE it is making on compressor side.
>As RPM's of engine go up, turbine speeds pick up, boost stays above
>20psi...but AIRFLOW is INCREASING.  Once you are turning HIGH ENGINE
>rpm's the ENGINE is demanding MORE AIR than the little turbos can pump
>to MAINTAIN 20psi+, so our boost starts FALLING OFF as rpm's get higher,
>until by 7000rpm maybe we have 18psi or so with 15G's.  IF we got to 15
>psi with 15G's AT MAX acceptable TURBINE SPEED (max turbo output
>capability) THAT is where turbo would be producing 404cfm.  From simple
>formulae, a total of 808cfm makes ABOUT ?600hp (didn't look it up) which
>we really don't reach at 15psi.  So, really, we aren't truly ever
>getting 404cfm from them...but it IS a very useful common basis point of
>comparison!
>
>> A larger turbo will not begin to produce high boost pressures until the
cfm
>> is much higher, thus boost lag.
>
>This is just not quite true; see above.  A larger turbo can (if desired)
>produce higher boost at same engine rpm if it is designed to do so by
>turbine vs compressor design.  Lag is caused (in part) by a larger
>turbine section/clipped turbine wheels so turbine needs MORE exhaust
>flow to turn same shaft rpm/force compressor side.
>
>> I think what you're saying is that a larger turbo will be producing more
>> airflow at a specific level of boost. Turbos are not rated by how much
>> airflow they produce. They are rated by what amount of airflow is
required
>> to achieve a particular level of boost. Generally, the lower the number,
>> the faster they spool up.
>
>Turbos are SPECIFICALLY rated in part by how much airflow they produce!
>A "compressor map" is specifically a graph of airflow (lbs/hr) on X-axis
>vs. pressure ratio on Y-axis.  You don't NEED to have a certain cfm to
>have exactly that pressure; there are a NUMBER of airflow values that
>correspond to a certain psi, and vice-versa.
>
>> The ONLY point of larger turbos is to raise boost. And perhaps to move
the
>> torque curve towards the higher rpm's for performance during higher
speeds.
>
>This is not quite right.  There are a number of reasons to get larger
>turbochargers.
>1)  To be able to support a higher boost at a certain RPM target than
>current smaller turbos can muster
>2)  To be able to make a CERTAIN boost pressure at a more EFFICIENT
>point on compressor map, thus "beating up" the air less-->LOWER
>compressor outlet air temp-->less likely to detonate, and more DENSE air
>for SAME pressure=MORE oxygen content at SAME pressure as smaller turbo
>on less-efficient portion of ITS compressor map.
>3)  For more durability--maxxing out a little turbo, spinning it past
>ITS "redline" so as to get the last couple psi boost, takes toll on the
>poor turbo bearings and (smaller turbo with smaller)
>bearings/shafts/thrust surfaces.  Going to larger turbo can sometimes,
>therefore, increase reliability.
>
>At least, that is my take on things; good discussion!  What do you
>think, Dave?
>
>Jack Tertadian
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:45:42 +0100
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

Hmmm

This is maybe a dumb questioin. Is your Injectors really doing 99% of what they are capable to or are they open 99% of their cycle. If the second is true then maybe higher fuel preasure will cure the problem.

Higher fuel preasure will give more fuel without changing the cycle of the injector.

Just asking :)

/Mikael

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 03:12:52 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

Not to be disagree, I just feel my 15g's run fine with 550cc injectors. My
EGT's are well within safe temp ranges @ 1 bar on all except the most extreme
runs. When racing @23lbs boost & race gas, My VPC settings are in the lean
range and can be moved up substantially. It may be that my cars set up is a
bit different then Mike's. Larger piping and enlarged fuel lines, fuel pump
etc., that is giving me this opinion. I can only gauge from driving my car. If
Mike is getting hi egt's with 550 inj I feel something is wrong with the fuel
delivery and may not be the injector size? Otherwise, I should have the same
problem?
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 10/26/98 2:12:48 AM !!!First Boot!!!, beking@home.com
writes:

<< ere are a couple of ways to defeat fuel cut, the MASC itself is one of
 them assuming you are running rich when you hit fuel cut.  At 99% IDC,
 however, assuming a correct AFR, new injectors are indeed indicated.  Fuel
 pressure and flow is also something to check first, of course, but I have
 maintained for a while that 550s (560s in Mike's case) are too small for a
 15G application.
  >>
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 07:57:25 -0500
From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: boost/lag/turbo theory

Couple of questions and comments.

1. Of everyone who has one or more EGTs, has anyone located the probe in the
header of manifold?  The turbo itself?  The reason I asked is because I'm
getting ready to relocate mine from the 02 housing to the rear exhaust manifold
rather than the turbo.  Although preferrable in location, it doesn't look like
the funnel of the turbo is anywhere near big enough in diameter to allow the
full insertion of the probe (2.25").  Partial insertion might affect the
reading since a significant part of the probe would be outside of the turbo.
 Anyone know this for sure?

2. More on boost drop.  A high VE motor is the "fire hose" in the
garden-hose/fire-hose example.  For a fire hose (freer-flowing motor) to
maintain the same pressure as a garden hose (stock motor) you need a bigger
pump (turbo).  Take four identical 15G turbos.  Eliminate the air box
restrictions on both cars and put two on a free-flowing motor and two on a
stock motor.  Set the desired boost level to 30 PSI.  Take them both to 7000
RPMs in 2nd gear.  Which one gets there first?  Why?  "More horsepower", you
say.   Because the free-flowing motor is better able to process the air "doled
out" by the turbos.  In lower RPMs, say at 4000, the turbos can produce more
air than the engine can process.  Both vehicles should see roughly the same
maximum boost level at that RPM.  As RPMs increase, it's like changing the
garden hose to a fire hose.  More RPMs mean more gulps of air per second.  More
gulps is more flow.  If you have turbos capable of producing X CFM and a motor
capable of processing X+200 CFM at 7000 RPM, you will see a drop in boost
because the turbos will not be able to keep the intake side of the motor
pressurized.  We need our cake and eat it too.  Sustained pressure AND good
flow.  Bigger turbos will allow us to do that.

3. Air cleaners - Restrictions to the compressor side (airbox) can prevent
turbos from reaching their maximum output and therefore boost is somewhat
limited.  Take the restriction away and the turbo can pull more air through
itself, thereby increasing the amount of pressure in the intake manifold.

4. Exhaust backpressure - the reason any turbine wheel spins is because of the
pressure differential on either side of the turbine.  If you were somehow able
to pressurize your downpipe, the turbine wheel would stop spinning when the
pressure on the downstream side equaled the pressure on the upstream side.
 That would be an extreme case, but in real-life, pre-cats sitting just
downstream of the turbos will introduce enough backpressure to affect spool-up
and therefore, boost.

- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:35:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S: Who's the Target Audience?

Hi all,

Just wondering: is there anyone else on this list who *doesn't* own a
turbo S/3K?  90% of the discussion recently has been about issues that
don't really relate to my car, so I've been hitting the delete key a lot.
(I'll be following up with a couple more clutch questions later.)

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

What's the difference between a Mechanical Engineer and a Civil Engineer?
Mechanical Engineers build Weapons, Civil Engineers build Targets!

*similarly*

There are two kinds of ocean-going vessels in this world:
submarines and targets!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:47:24 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Team3S: Clutches (and I don't mean "eggs")

OK, here's a follow up to my earlier question about predicting the end of
your clutch's life.  Let's say I'm driving around town in 3rd gear, 3-4000
RPM.  As I vary my throttle position the car speed responds in a very
linear fashion (as it should) - MOST of the throttle travel.  As I drop
engine RPMs down past a certain point, the whole car lurches.  Conversely,
when I re-engage the throttle, the car lurches again.  I've tried varying
the rate at which I change the throttle, but can't seem to find a rate at
which it doesn't happen.

It seems to me that the transition from the "engine driving the wheels" to
the "wheels driving the engine" is much more dramatic than it should be.

Is there any way to tell how much is too much?  Or am I over-reacting to a
normal phenomenon?

Thanks.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 07:35:42 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutches (and I don't mean "eggs")

Dennis Moore wrote:

 As I drop

> engine RPMs down past a certain point, the whole car lurches.  Conversely,
> when I re-engage the throttle, the car lurches again.  I've tried varying
> the rate at which I change the throttle, but can't seem to find a rate at
> which it doesn't happen.

Are you certain this is a clutch problem? Have you checked motor and transmission
mounts??

Darcy



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:43:14 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

If Mike's fuel system isn't up to delivering the deamnded fuel then yes what
you Mikael and Joe describe (too low fuel pressure) could be taking place.

My understanding is that Mike is using the HKS 90 gph pump.  Maybe the
filter or lines are plugged kinked etc.?  I suppose dirty injectors could do
it too.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 1998 1:13 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)
>
>
> Not to be disagree, I just feel my 15g's run fine with 550cc injectors. My
> EGT's are well within safe temp ranges @ 1 bar on all except the
> most extreme
> runs. When racing @23lbs boost & race gas, My VPC settings are in the lean
> range and can be moved up substantially. It may be that my cars
> set up is a
> bit different then Mike's. Larger piping and enlarged fuel lines,
> fuel pump
> etc., that is giving me this opinion. I can only gauge from
> driving my car. If
> Mike is getting hi egt's with 550 inj I feel something is wrong
> with the fuel
> delivery and may not be the injector size? Otherwise, I should
> have the same
> problem?
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
> In a message dated 10/26/98 2:12:48 AM !!!First Boot!!!, beking@home.com
> writes:
>
> << ere are a couple of ways to defeat fuel cut, the MASC itself is one of
>  them assuming you are running rich when you hit fuel cut.  At 99% IDC,
>  however, assuming a correct AFR, new injectors are indeed
> indicated.  Fuel
>  pressure and flow is also something to check first, of course, but I have
>  maintained for a while that 550s (560s in Mike's case) are too
> small for a
>  15G application.
>   >>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:56:50 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: boost/lag/turbo theory

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Bob Fontana
> Sent: Monday, October 26, 1998 5:57 AM
> To: 'Stealth List'
> Subject: Team3S: RE: boost/lag/turbo theory
>
>
> Couple of questions and comments.
>
> 1. Of everyone who has one or more EGTs, has anyone located the
> probe in the
> header of manifold?  The turbo itself?  The reason I asked is because I'm
> getting ready to relocate mine from the 02 housing to the rear
> exhaust manifold
> rather than the turbo.  Although preferrable in location, it
> doesn't look like
> the funnel of the turbo is anywhere near big enough in diameter
> to allow the
> full insertion of the probe (2.25").  Partial insertion might affect the
> reading since a significant part of the probe would be outside of
> the turbo.
>  Anyone know this for sure?

What type of pyrometer is it?  Based on your dilemma I assume it is not one
of the short stubby ones.  If it is the long slender type with adjustable
depth via a collar it will work fine if 1-1.5" of the probe is in the
exhaust stream.  I have that style on my car now and it is partially exposed
yet appears to operate just fine.  Also, I have used that style exclusively
on motorcycles where the exhaust header diameter is smallish.  In those
applications only 3/4" of the probe was in the pipe.  They worked as
expected.

> 2. More on boost drop.  A high VE motor is the "fire hose" in the
> garden-hose/fire-hose example.  For a fire hose (freer-flowing motor) to
> maintain the same pressure as a garden hose (stock motor) you
> need a bigger
> pump (turbo).  Take four identical 15G turbos.  Eliminate the air box
> restrictions on both cars and put two on a free-flowing motor and
> two on a
> stock motor.  Set the desired boost level to 30 PSI.  Take them
> both to 7000
> RPMs in 2nd gear.  Which one gets there first?  Why?  "More
> horsepower", you
> say.   Because the free-flowing motor is better able to process
> the air "doled
> out" by the turbos.  In lower RPMs, say at 4000, the turbos can
> produce more
> air than the engine can process.  Both vehicles should see
> roughly the same
> maximum boost level at that RPM.  As RPMs increase, it's like
> changing the
> garden hose to a fire hose.  More RPMs mean more gulps of air per
> second.  More
> gulps is more flow.  If you have turbos capable of producing X
> CFM and a motor
> capable of processing X+200 CFM at 7000 RPM, you will see a drop in boost
> because the turbos will not be able to keep the intake side of the motor
> pressurized.  We need our cake and eat it too.  Sustained
> pressure AND good
> flow.  Bigger turbos will allow us to do that.
>
> 3. Air cleaners - Restrictions to the compressor side (airbox)
> can prevent
> turbos from reaching their maximum output and therefore boost is somewhat
> limited.  Take the restriction away and the turbo can pull more
> air through
> itself, thereby increasing the amount of pressure in the intake manifold.

> 4. Exhaust backpressure - the reason any turbine wheel spins is
> because of the
> pressure differential on either side of the turbine.  If you were
> somehow able
> to pressurize your downpipe, the turbine wheel would stop
> spinning when the
> pressure on the downstream side equaled the pressure on the
> upstream side.
>  That would be an extreme case, but in real-life, pre-cats sitting just
> downstream of the turbos will introduce enough backpressure to
> affect spool-up
> and therefore, boost.

Both #3 and #4 make sense.  I saw much quicker spool-up after installing the
83mm airmeter.  Although something is odd.  I was able to hold 20 psi to
redline in 2nd and 3rd and well into the rpm range in 4th (didn't actually
hit redline there yet).  Based on feedback from others this appears to be an
unusual case.  I suppose if my engine were unhealthy in the first place #2
above might explain it.

> -Bob



Regards,

Barry

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:06:16 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

<< If Mike's fuel system isn't up to delivering the deamnded fuel then yes
what
 you Mikael and Joe describe (too low fuel pressure) could be taking place.>>

I'm going to find my old (never used) fuel pressure gauge and she what she
says.  But I seriusly doubt that anything changed as far as the fuel pump,
lines, pressure regulator, etc. is concerned because two weeks ago, before my
MASC, I had enough fuel..  around low-mid 90% injector duty cycle before I
installed my larger air-meter.

<< My understanding is that Mike is using the HKS 90 gph pump.  Maybe the
 filter or lines are plugged kinked etc.?  I suppose dirty injectors could do
 it too.
  >>

Yeah, the HKS Nippendenso <sp?> pump.  New filter and balanced injectors.. but
from my understanding, even if say the filter was a little clogged, how would
the ECU know?  I am not sure of a sensor that could tell and thus increase the
injector duty cycle?

Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:10:31 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutches (and I don't mean "eggs")

No I hadn't - something that (relatively) simple hadn't even occurred to
me.  Guess I need to break down and buy the service manual to find out
where they all are ;)


On Mon, 26 Oct 1998 wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
[snip]
>
> Are you certain this is a clutch problem? Have you checked motor and
> transmission mounts??
>
> Darcy
>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:23:01 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: boost/lag/turbo theory

<< 1. Of everyone who has one or more EGTs, has anyone located the probe in
the
 header of manifold?  The turbo itself?  The reason I asked is because I'm
 getting ready to relocate mine from the 02 housing to the rear exhaust
manifold
 rather than the turbo.  Although preferrable in location, it doesn't look
like
 the funnel of the turbo is anywhere near big enough in diameter to allow the
 full insertion of the probe (2.25").  Partial insertion might affect the
 reading since a significant part of the probe would be outside of the turbo.
  Anyone know this for sure?>>

Bob I have two EGT's installed in my car.  One from TRE that reads Farenhite,
and another from HKS that reads Celcius.  My TRE EGT is installed in the front
header.  I installed it right where the middle cylinder dumps into the long
tube that goes to all of the cylinder/from the drivers side cylinder.  I cant
remember the length of my TRE EGT, but it was a VERY tight fit.  So if anyone
installs there, make sure they drill in the middle of the exhuast pipe - not
off the the side by accident, and tread the hole straight in relation to where
they drilled.
On a side note, most people agree the rear cylinders run a little warmer, but
hell if I'm going to pull the rear turbo and manifolds to install an EGT! :)
I just figured I'd add a few degrees to my readings from my front EGT and I'd
be set.  Works great.

My HKS EGT is located in the front pre-cat right after where it bolts to the
turbo.  But the HKS EGT has a VERY short probe so it could almost be installed
in a vaccume line..lol :).

<< 3. Air cleaners - Restrictions to the compressor side (airbox) can prevent
 turbos from reaching their maximum output and therefore boost is somewhat
 limited.  Take the restriction away and the turbo can pull more air through
 itself, thereby increasing the amount of pressure in the intake manifold.>>

This is another reason why I believe my high injector duty cyclese (99%) are
not due to fuel pump/line/filter/pressure/diliver problems, but due to the
fact I'm making lots of power with my HUGE air-meter.  When I first installed
the MASC, I used the head-unit to monitor my current (stock air-meter)
settings so I had some kind of baseline to initially tune to.  I noticed my
EGT's were then lower for any given boost pressure, the injectors duty cycles
were lower, and the mv's where higher before I installed the significantly
larger air-meter.

<< 4. Exhaust backpressure - the reason any turbine wheel spins is because of
the
 pressure differential on either side of the turbine.  If you were somehow
able
 to pressurize your downpipe, the turbine wheel would stop spinning when the
 pressure on the downstream side equaled the pressure on the upstream side.
  That would be an extreme case, but in real-life, pre-cats sitting just
 downstream of the turbos will introduce enough backpressure to affect spool-
up
 and therefore, boost.>>

Exactly :).  That's why there are alot of debates concerning boost pressure
with certain turbos, because alot of people dont understand if someone has
cats but the other person doesn't, they're comparing apples to oranges!

Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7
 
ps - maybe everyone should include a detailed list of their mods in their
signature, that way we'd all be on the same wavelenght when debating certain
mods!  And if anyone wants to keep things secret, ban them from the list.  Why
should we spend time to help them, when they wont do the same..
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:30:26 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Who's the Target Audience?

Dennis:

Well, I'm an R/T owner, and I believe Bob is as well (or an SL).  I,
personally, have been following the thread(s) to glean as much as
possible from the folks on the list.  I have a few A/F, timing and IDC
questions that I was *going* to ask, but for now, I'm content to just
lurk.  They may get answered without having to ask.

Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T

Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Just wondering: is there anyone else on this list who *doesn't* own a
> turbo S/3K?
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Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:25:51 -0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: MASC tuning and testing :)

OK, let me back-up for a second and recap what I think is happening:

Before the MASC you had 90% injector duty cycle.

After MASC you have 99% IDC.  Hmm...  You are definitely sucking more
air.  The problem still lies before you installed the MASC.  I think you
already had low fuel flow rates before the MASC was installed, but due
to the fact that the factory mass-air sensor is very small, the turbos
weren't able to pull as much air into your engine as they can now with
the MASC installed.  Hence your IDC went from 90% to 99%, and this
should happen if you're pulling roughly 10% more air.  In your case you
might be pulling even more than just a 10% increase in air so the
injectors can't keep up with your new set-up. 

But remember that the injectors are not at fault here.  It might be that
the fuel system was already hindered.  The best way to find out is to
measure your fuel pressure near the injector fuel rail.  And then
compare to someone else's who has the same fuel pump as you.


LotoBoost@aol.com wrote:
><SNIP>
> ... but
> from my understanding, even if say the filter was a little clogged, how would
> the ECU know?  I am not sure of a sensor that could tell and thus increase the
> injector duty cycle?
>

There aren't any sensors at WOT.  The injector duty cycle is being
changed by increasing the fuel curves on the MASC in order to retain
safe EGTs.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:54:32 EST
From: GC3000GT@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Who's the Target Audience?

In a message dated 10/26/98 8:37:54 AM Eastern Standard Time, stealth@kiva.net
writes:

<< Just wondering: is there anyone else on this list who *doesn't* own a
 turbo S/3K? >>

Don't worry Dennis,  I'm right behind ya with my '95 Base GT...... but even
though I don't own a turbo, I consider this list the first place to turn to
for ANY mechanical advice whatsoever. 

Gregg
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:58:31 EST
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Injector Duty Cycles

Talking about IDC's, does anyone else out there monitor their injector duty?

It would be neat to know:
1. what turbos/injctors someone has
2. what exhuast set-up
3. what IDC at a given boost pressure

I wouldn't be shocked if many of us are running high 80%'s and low 90%'s with
550/560's and 15G's..

Thanks,
Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 120.7

1.  15G turbos/RC Eng. 560cc injectors
2.  Custom 3" downpipe/exhaust with pre-cats gutted, main cat gone
3.  99% injector duty cycle at 18psi 

My mods:
HKS EVC 3, HKS fuel pump, TRE MASC, full 3" exhaust, no cats, TEC 15G's, one
HKS intercooler/one stock intercooler - damn curb..lol!, RC 560cc injectors,
spark plug wires, Blitz BOV, Apex AFC, cleaned heads, Centerforce DF clutch
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:56:25 -0400
From: "Lloyd Wihl" <Lloyd.Wihl@d25tss.cae.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Three Questions

Nice list! It's refreshing to see so much expertise concentrated here!

I have three questions about my 93 TT:

1. The clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing were replaced
with stock ones 10,000 miles ago. Recently I have felt a pulsation in
the pedal while engaging the clutch. There is no accompanying
vibration in the car. Also, the pulsation is temperature-related: it
doesn't occur at all at ambient temperatures below 70 deg F, and is
worst after driving then parking for an hour on a warm day. After
several shifts, it disappears. Any ideas what is causing it?

2.  On cool mornings (around 35 deg F) my engine hesitates until it
warms up. I have tested the ambient temperature sensor, and it is
fine. My fuel filter and plugs are relatively new. I use 94 octane fuel.
Would replacing the ignition wires help? Does the throttle body need
to be cleaned?

3. My low coolant light illuminates after driving on the highway for a
few hours. (I can drive indefinitely in the city without losing coolant.)
I know this is a common problem on the 3S, but has anyone actually
pinpointed where the coolant escapes from? Pressure tests haven't
shown anything. I am still under warranty, and would like to get the
faulty components replaced.

Lloyd Wihl
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:52:45 -0800
From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: VR4 Advice please

Ron...

1. Sounds like air in the brake lines. I can't imagine a car (any car) with properly functioning brakes that
allows the pedal to hit the floor.
2. My VR4 had fossil oil in it for the first 28K miles. I changed to synthetic (Castrol 5-50w) and have not
experienced any leaks (of any sort) in the last eighteen months.

Price sounds reasonable to me (at least if they solve the brake problem). Good luck!!!

Looking forward...Chris

"Friends don't let friends ride with me"

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ron-a-roid [SMTP:rtetetet@email.msn.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 24, 1998 12:22 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Re:  VR4 Advice please
<snip>
Two things concern me;
1. The brakes are spongy, I can pin the pedal to the floor. They stop good
but not as good as my SL as far as raw stopping power. Probably because the
system is spongy. Has not had brake line recall done. Anti lock light blinks
3 times at start up, not a solid 4 - 6 second light like my 93 SL.

2. The car has had Valvoline 10-30w in it all the changes he had receipts
for from the dealer. I would have preferred to see Mobil1 or a synthetic and
would want to change to synthetic after purchase. I have read that changing
from petroleum to synthetic can induce seal shrinkage and possible leaks
later on. Anybody else heard of this and have knowledge of it?
<more snip>

Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 13:18:28 EST
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: VR4 Advice please

Chris, the 5W-50 has a tendency to cause lifter ticking. At least it does in
my car.
Maybe in real hot weather you got by - but in winter, listen carefully.
Good seeing you.
Arty 91 VR-4

In a message dated 10/26/98 9:53:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com writes:
SNIP
<<  I changed to synthetic (Castrol 5-50w) and have not  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:40:07 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Are the exhaust manifolds a restriction ??

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------25B8FFA3A27691461C695BF2
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Today I was at the shop and inspected the rebuild. I then checked the manifolds
with the fitting of the new turbos and was pretty surprised as they don't look
like a restriction at all. I expected a heavy cast manifold but the thing was
not that big nor bad designed (outside). Of course there's always a way to make
things better but I'd like to ask people who already exchanged the
manifold/headers what differences they found.

For the EGT sensor, the best would be that it will be installed infront the
turbo flange. Are there any probes available with different lenghts ?

PS: The small pic shows the front manifold/headers still attached to the front
head.

Cheers,
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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