--

From: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com (Team3S Digest)
To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #5
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Errors-To: owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Team3S Digest         Friday, October 23 1998         Volume 01 : Number 005




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 15:09:49 -0400
From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject: Team3S: Some new pics

Hello all,

I haven't had time to put these picture into HTML form yet, but in case
you're interested,
here are the links.  Hopefully your mail clients can startup your brower
from this message.

http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r003.jpg shows the bad cylinder I was running
with.  This picture is taken at an angle looking down into the cylinder.
You can get an idea of the depth of the groove from this picture, but it
was even deeper than it looks.

http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r004.jpg shows what the 4-bolt main cap looks
like.  Compare it to the 2-bolt main shown at
http://www.gate.net/~mits/maincap.jpg.

In http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r005.jpg I have the bottom end disassembled
and on the bench getting prepared to take to the machine shop.  This was on
April 30th, 1998.

http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r007.jpg shows the inside of the J-E piston
dome.  Notice the logo..

In http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r008.jpg after several double-checks, I
finally got the pistons, rings and rods perfect and snapped this picture
since this is hopefully the last time I'll see these babies for a long
time.

http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r006.jpg was taken after I got the heads on but
before the timing belt.

http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r009.jpg shows the closeup of an intake port.
There's hardly any meat left on it.

http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r010.jpg shows a closeup of all 3 ports.

I have tons more pictures but they're related to the timing belt since I
thought I'd try to document that process and stick it on a page somewhere.

- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 12:33:09 -0700
From: Ryan Peterson <rpeterson@rh2.com>
Subject: Team3S: manual tranny question

Okay here's a good one.  Anyone ever actually got into their manual
transmission?

There is a small "cap" on the far right (passenger) end of the tranny
held on with about 8 bolts.  I pulled this off so I can chrome it (don't
ask).  Unfortunately, a small (2") brass sprocket popped off as I was
removing the cap before I could actually see how it was originally
attached.  I know where it goes, but not which direction.  The shop
manuals don't get into the actual guts of the tranny.  Anyone been here
before?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 13:07:33 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: manual tranny question

Ryan:

You may want to let folks know which tranny you have (FWD or AWD).

Rich

<no snips>

Ryan Peterson wrote:

Okay here's a good one.  Anyone ever actually got into their manual
transmission?

There is a small "cap" on the far right (passenger) end of the tranny
held on with about 8 bolts.  I pulled this off so I can chrome it (don't
ask).  Unfortunately, a small (2") brass sprocket popped off as I was
removing the cap before I could actually see how it was originally
attached.  I know where it goes, but not which direction.  The shop
manuals don't get into the actual guts of the tranny.  Anyone been here
before?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 22:41:37 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: RE: boost lag

Hi Gang !

Well, I'm back from Crete and my back really hurts (I hate MTBs now !!).

First, sorry for the confusion. Jim was absolutely right, as his car had
definitely less lag while mine seemed to be quicker in the upper rpm range. But
mine always had more lag, even when shifting on higher or lower rpms.

Why ? The explanation can sit in my "engine rebuild" update message I'll send ya
tomorrow. Just in short : Small part of #4 piston between the rings has broken
(no compression); #2&#5 rings are broken; rear turbo is leaking. Hmmm, I think
this could be an explanation to the lag :(

Furthermore, the Blitz DSBC has two settings that allows to get the most
potential out of the car. I learned that the GAIN setting helped to decrease the
lag while the RATIO represents the % of the most available boost of the system.
I found out that the DSBC uses a way to alternate the wastegates and with this
it is able to reduce lag as well as to hold boost in the upper rpms. When I have
my car back I start with diagnosing the car as well as recording the behaivour
of the DSBC solenoid controls. This will maybe bring some light to this :) In
the near future, we'll be able to hook up the diag-system to Jims car as well to
find out how the Apexi works :)

Also bigger Turbos will cause more lag. This because there is simply more mass
to be rotated. But the european and the US cars (and all others) do have the
same turbos and therefore we could eliminate this thing. Next week the GT-Alley
turbos will find their way into the car and I expect only a little bit more lag
as they are a hybrid design. We will see :)

Even more another IC design can cause or reduce lag. I will install the FMIC
sometimes after the turbos to have a good back to back comparison. Also I'll
install temperature and pressure sensors in the piping to record any loss or
gain as well as to prove the efficiency of the system.

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Ready: GT-Alley 368S Turbos,front mount IC/ stainless steel piping,G-Force ECU
(3 EPROMS),fuel pump,VPC,GCC,720 Injectors,Blitz Filter/GT-Alley VPC adapter,
Maybe: f.aluminum pistons (if rebuild needed)
Visit my homepage under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 18:45:42 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Transmission Fluids, Short Shifter, etc...

Hello all,

Before I start asking a bunch of questions I just wanted to thank
whomever was responsible for starting this list!

Anyhow, as some of you know I'm STILL in the process of rebuilding my
5sp getrag.  Hopefully it will be done early next week.  A lengthy post
on the rebuild will follow once I get to drive it.  For now I've been
gathering information/opinions on transmission fluids - what and what
not to use:

From the DSM list:

Mike from DSS (AutoX/Roadrace guru for 2nd Gen. DSMs) suggest the use of
BG synchroshift and strongly suggest to never use Redline MTL.
Apparently it has caused premature bearing failure on 6 of his racing
cars. (not all DSMs)

Dave Buschur (9.5XX second 1/4 mi on RWD DSM) agrees with Mike from DSS
that the BG synchroshift is great and that Redline MTL is crap.

2 or 3 other people said they found no better feeling with BG stuff but
that when changed to the MTL stuff it was like day and night.  I think
they were talking about smoothness (because as I test-drove a 1st Gen.
DSM and a brand new 98 DSM I noticed the shifting was very notchy -
ugh!- compared to my Stealth)

From the Stealth@starnet.net list:

Ed Fein (AutoX/Roadrace 3Scars) suggests Redline MT-90. 

Now I know the DSMs transmissions are a lot different than ours. To put
it in perspective here's a quote from the chief mechanic where my tranny
is being rebuilt:
"For the 3S trannys I would only trust one of my mechanics and myself,
for the DSM's tranny, even my 14yr old son could rebuild that one."

Any suggestions from this group?  BTW Redline Shockproof Heavy in
transfercase and the rear diff.  right?

Regarding the SHIFTER, I would like to upgrade it/improve it, because I
noticed (when racing 1/4mi and autoX) that during fast shifts from 1st
to 2nd, the grinding (the tranny was already bad) increased if my hand
pulled back and to the left.  If I tried to concentrate and pull
straight back, the grinding was less.

Will the C's short shifter address this play that exists on the current
shifter, or should I replace all the bushings with metal ones to remove
any play.  Of course this will increase the probability of missing a
gear during a 1/4 mi run!  But if you're good it doesn't matter. :)

Oh yeah, when I write the rebuild post, I will include an evaluation on
the ACT clutch with the solid (no springs) 6 puck copper/ceramic pads.

Later,

Jose Sinibaldi
'92 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 16:23:59 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Team3S: Gentle reminder

A gentle reminder: Everyone please pay attention to the rules agreed to
when your subscription was undertaken. Half wit comments relating to
life apart from 3S topics are not encouraged, and will in likelihood
find the author of the same looking for a new group to share jokes with.
We are sincere and serious here, and want this list to stay
professional. It doesn't get any better than the first rate bunch of
guys who are here now, and we certainly don't want another exodus
occurring because there was too much water in the wine.

Darcy

92 Stealth TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 19:53:08 EDT
From: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Fluids, Short Shifter, etc...

I have the C's shifter on my 91 VR-4. Not at all happy with it. Has tendency
to jam at the worst time. It may need a better return spring. I'd go for the
bushings first and then cut off about 1 or 2 inches of the old shift stick. It
will be less $ & much better.
Arty 91 VR-4

n a message dated 10/22/98 10:48:17 PM !!!First Boot!!!,
josesini@engin.umich.edu writes:

<<
Regarding the SHIFTER, I would like to upgrade it/improve it, because I
noticed (when racing 1/4mi and autoX) that during fast shifts from 1st
to 2nd, the grinding (the tranny was already bad) increased if my hand
pulled back and to the left.  If I tried to concentrate and pull
straight back, the grinding was less.

Will the C's short shifter address this play that exists on the current
shifter, or should I replace all the bushings with metal ones to remove
any play.  Of course this will increase the probability of missing a
gear during a 1/4 mi run!  But if you're good it doesn't matter. :)
  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 21:01:28 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Some new pics

In 98R008.jpg, what are the rings that look like they're scribed into the
tops of your pistons?  Valve impact prints?  Ouch!

Dennis

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To: 'Stealth List' <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, October 22, 1998 2:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Some new pics

[snip]
>In http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r008.jpg after several double-checks, I
>finally got the pistons, rings and rods perfect and snapped this picture
>since this is hopefully the last time I'll see these babies for a long
>time.
>
[snip]

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Oct 1998 20:24:01 -0700
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Team3S: Glad to Be Here!

Hi All!

Thanks to Bob Forrest, Darc, and Mikael for the kind
invitations they sent me!  I am enthusiastic in joining this
new list, and I look forward to much joyful enlightment
while participating on it.  ^_^

Many have been asking about Hau, so here's the scoop.
Hau's @ss is still down in Brazil, and it looks like he is
going to be there for a while.  He says he will be visiting
his house here in WA sometime in November, but that
is what he has told me each of the past 3 months.  Hau
plans to apply for the MBA program at the UW (where
I currently attend), so I just picked up the application
for him.  His Stealth (with a bunch of my stuff on it) is
sitting in the garage collecting dust, and his house ...

If you want to email Hau, here is his address.  On Starnet,
I wouldn't feel comfortable posting it, but since we all know
each other this shouldn't be a problem.  I'm starting to love
this list more already!

yhauwang@hotmail.com

If you write to him, be sure and remind him that his cats
are starving to death.  I have only been able to go over to
his place on occasion in order to feed the poor things.
Here is Hau's cellphone # which he almost always answers
anytime from noon until the wee hours of the morning:

011-55-92-989-2000

Be advised that calling Brazil is extremely expensive.  I
found out the hard way.  But I am sure that Hau would love
to hear from all of you, even if for only a few minutes.

Also, Hau told me that he plans to get back on IRC, since
you haven't seen him there in a while.  He generally gets on
very late (~11pm PST which is 2am in Brazil).

Barry just sent me an email regarding exhaust system issues
for our cars, so it will take me a while to digest and ponder it,
but be looking for a post from me on the issue in the near
future.

Yours truly,

- --Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 02:05:44 -0400
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transmission Fluids, Short Shifter, etc...

Arty,

Thanks for your input.  Besides the C's shifter I'm also considering the
shifter Buschur racing is selling for our cars.  It's only $75 w/ core
or $100 w/out core.  Apparently it is longer in the bottom and shorter
on top - yielding shorter throws between gears.  Also for some reason I
think the angle has been changed.  I'm not clear on what angle?

Jose
92 TT

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have the C's shifter on my 91 VR-4. Not at all happy with it. Has tendency
> to jam at the worst time. It may need a better return spring. I'd go for the
> bushings first and then cut off about 1 or 2 inches of the old shift stick. It
> will be less $ & much better.
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:29:24 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: 3000GT.com

I'm not sure if you guys know this or not.

3000gt.com is UP !!!!!!!!

http://www.3000gt.com

/Mikael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:03:24 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Engine rebuild update (long!)

Hi gang :)

Well, I'm back from my short holiday that I used to bring down my nerves and to
take a good breath. I really needed it. Now my back hurts from the MTB and the
horrible hills on Crete :)

Back to my rebuild:

Some of you know what happened to my car: knock, oil blasted out by the BOV,
engine on fire and more headaches. Finally I had my car on the dyno again and
only got 337hp with a lot of timing retarded. Also during this run the oil cap
started leaking and oil got pressed out from the dipstick. This leaded to the
thought that there is too much pressure in the crankcase and the oil is pressed
into the intake via the ventilation lines. But where is this pressure coming
from ? Turbos ? Pistons, rings ? I then got a compression tester and took the
intake away to reach the rear bank.

Compression test :
#1 (115psi) #2 (106) #3 (105) #6 (126) showed low figures put in an acceptable
range. Only #6 was good (over 120psi). But I know that a good car should read
figures around 135-145psi !! #5 was bad with only 98psi but #4 was dead with
only 66psi. The mechanic then checked the compression again with a tool that
lets him apply pressure to the cylinder that pressed the piston down to BDC. He
was then able to "hear" the pressure blowing out to the intake on the front.
This disappeared as he cleaned the parts by injecting a special acid fluid
directly into the fuel rails. I made a retest of the compression afterwards and
the figures where only a few psi better.

Stetoscopic inspection :
#4 caused so much headache that we decided to screw in a stetoscope to check the
pistons and the walls. We then did this on all cyls to be sure. I was happy not
to find any damage but we found a lot clog from the too much burnt oil on the
pistons.

Fire :
After installing the G-Force ECU I got a loud pop under the hood and knew that
the y-pipe popped off (the first time for me) But as I rolled out blue smoke
came out of the hood and I was lucky to have a fire extinguisher handy. The rear
bank was on fire but I was happy to kill it within seconds by spraying sand
allover the engine (urgh). The car then went back to Mitsu for the fire
inspection and we thought about a broken turbo-housing that spilled oil over the
manifold that then got ignited. Fortunately we found out it was a plastic bag
with something in there that was stuck over the y-pipe that got burned and
caused the fire. I never though that this can burn so grassy. Nothing was hurt
on the car due to the little $9 extinguisher !!!!

Turbo :
As the car was at Mitsu again, I told them to take the engine apart to find out
what the problem is. The first they found was the rear turbo leaking oil into
the piping. The mechanic told me that this is because the heat problem but they
never had any problem with them yet (yeah but nobody boosted it up like me in
Europe). No problem as the new ones are lying on the floor :)

Pistons, rings :
First they took the rear bank apart. Here the results :
#2: broken ring, no damage to wall
#4: both rings and part of piston between rings broken, small damage to wall
#6: rings worn, no damage to wall

Afterwards they also took the front bank apart :
#1: broken ring, no damage to wall
#3: ok
#5: ring broken, piston had small cracks !! no damage to wall

Head, valves, gaskets :
They measured out the heads and found absolutely no problem with them. Even the
gaskets looked brandnew. Also the valves and valve-train is 100% perfect.
Unfortunately we do only have a few shops that can do a polish or porting job
here in Switzerland. And they want about $2000 for this !! No, too expensive for
only a few horses.

Finally :
The Mitsu experts say that the car must have had very heavy bad knock. IMHO, due
to the leaking sunroof on high speeds I never heard anything as I drove around
290km/h on the German Autobahns. But I'm sure I killed it on such high power,
long run, high temp circumstances :(

Before the rebuilt was started, I got an offer on a forged aluminum piston set
for $850. Mitsu then told me that the original pistons are good aluminum ones
and that they will be balanced and sent to a special shop for preparing. I don't
know what this shop did but they looked liked forged ones afterwards ;) I will
pay about $95 per piston and another $80 for rings and pinions set. To bad the
pistons are in now before I saw the JE piston post :( But Mitsu told me not to
give any warranty on their work if I want not original Mitsu pistons. Also we
decided not to overbore the walls more than it was needed due to the very small
damage to the #4 cylinder. Therefore I have again original sized pistons sitting
in the bores. The car should still be capable for enough horses !
Hey, would you believe that a car with such a damage still is able to produce
around 340 horses ??? Mine did ...

I'll be taking some pictures of the parts today and on monday and add them to my
pages pretty soon. Of course I have to gather everything together to be able to
document what really went wrong and I hope it will then help everyone to get the
most out of their cars without any damage and costs. BTW, the whole rebuild
costs me $2800. To be honest, I expected much more :)

Take care, guys !
Roger

- -----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:09:19 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch and AMG S60 race

Hi

My clutch have now started to slip after only 10000 miles.

I planned to buy a new one from Centerforce or Clutchmaster. Chien (nexus) told me that the clutchmaster stage 3 will hold for more miles than the Centerforce.

If you are interested in a new clutch look at http://cyber1.virtualrep.com/perfintl/search.tpl These guys sell the Centerforce clutch for 500$, that's a really good price. (Nexus sell the same for 650! Sorry Chien) I talked to the manager and he was very helpful.

BUT I have deceided to go with a custom solution. I will use a cinter (not sure about the word but it's non organic) disc from a ford (cosworth) that have the same spline size. I will use the stock preasure plate. The flywheel will be resurfaced and the preasure plate will be flat grinded.
This setup will hold alot more power and will hold many miles. The thudding sound problem will also be solved with this kind of disc.
The total cost for me will be ~350$.

BTW our preasure plates press 1200kg and that is very very much. That kind of preasure shall hold 700hp with a good disc !!!

I let you all know how it work out.

BTW I raced a Mercedes AMG S60 yesterday. I was faster  but that monster was really fast. They have 381 HP and the same weight that we have. His rear wheels where slipping in the curves at over 100 miles/h, Very scaaaary... I really love my awd. If you don't have any mods doen to your car you better look the other way if you get challenged by one of these sleepers.

/Mikael http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:04:04 +0200
From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: good www page

Hi

If you are interested in learning how cars work then have a look at http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101.html

This is basic info but worth reading.

These are the topics that the page covers.
     
Braking / ABS Systems 
Cooling Systems 
Electricial Systems 
A/C & Heating Systems 
Engine Systems 
Exhaust Systems 
Fuel & Intake Systems 
Suspension & Steering 
Drive Train 

/Mikael http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:18:37 -0700
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine rebuild update (long!)

R.G. wrote:

> The Mitsu experts say that the car must have had very heavy bad knock. IMHO, due
> to the leaking sunroof on high speeds I never heard anything as I drove around
> 290km/h on the German Autobahns. But I'm sure I killed it on such high power,
> long run, high temp circumstances :(

Have you considered cutting a couple tasteful intakes into the front air dam and running
cooling vents into the engine compartment from them? It seems with a rubuild in sight,
that now some cooling modifications might be ideal for what appears to be a problem with
our cars (heat build up inside the engine compartment.) Has anyone tackled this idea
before other than the notion of  (hot) air extractors to replace the hood blisters in
Generation 1 modles. (Boz extractors)

I'll be taking some pictures of the parts today and on monday and add them to my

> pages pretty soon. Of course I have to gather everything together to be able to
> document what really went wrong and I hope it will then help everyone to get the
> most out of their cars without any damage and costs. BTW, the whole rebuild
> costs me $2800. To be honest, I expected much more :)
>

Now that's a pretty damn decent price Roger. Why cann't all dealers be as decent, or
obviously as knowledgeable as the people you deal with!

Darc

92 Stealth TT...still anxiously awaiting arrival of my BC.

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:24:29 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clutch and AMG S60 race

Mikael Åkesson wrote:
>
> My clutch have now started to slip after only 10000 miles.

This is consistent with the experiences of many others I have
seen post to the old list.  Clutchmasters does not have the
best reputation.

My question is, just how bad is the stock clutch?  I for one
have been very impressed with my stock clutch, which now has
over 65,000 miles, 20,000 miles of which has been with the AVC-R.
The only problem I've ever experienced is with bad launches.
If I over-slip the clutch, it will not grab.  But if I launch
properly, it seems just fine, even now with this much mileage.
Of course at some point I plan to be pushing more horsepower
through the drivetrain, so perhaps it wouldn't fare as well...

But when it comes time to replace this clutch, I will be VERY
tempted to go with OEM.  From what I've read, the best aftermarket
clutch is probably the Centerforce Dual-Friction.  Though
I must say that the Cosworth system Mikael is looking into
sounds pretty intriguing...

Regarding the AMG, I encountered one a few months ago.
We both seemed interested in seeing how the cars would
stack up, but we were on a slow, crowded road along the
Rhein River and had no opportunities to, ah, you know.  ;-)
Glad to hear you edged him out, Mikael!

-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:41:14 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update

R.G. wrote:
>
> Furthermore, the Blitz DSBC has two settings that allows to get the most
> potential out of the car.  [ ... ]
> In the near future, we'll be able to hook up the diag-system to Jims
> car as well to find out how the Apexi works :)

I look forward to it!  Let me know when you're ready.  Perhaps
we could also arrange for a day with Mr. Dyno while I'm down
there...


> Pistons, rings :
> #4: both rings and part of piston between rings broken, small damage to wall

So will they just hone this puppy, or leave it as is?  From
your description it sounds like they don't plan to do much
to the block.

Regarding the knock at high speeds - why didn't the knock
sensor prevent this?  I suppose I run the same risk.  I'm
not sure I could hear knock at 150+ mph even without a
sunroof!  I guess your new diag-system could be pretty
revealing...

Glad to hear things ended up being more affordable than you
(or I, for that matter!) anticipated.  So I guess you won't
be forced to drive the Camaro this winter afterall!  :-)

-Jim

P.S.- Remember to save the good 9B!  We need to consult with
Corky and figure out how to put it on my Honda Odyssey!  :-)

- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:31:53 EDT
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine rebuild update (long!)

In a message dated 98-10-23 13:23:10 EDT, you write:

<< > The Mitsu experts say that the car must have had very heavy bad knock.
IMHO, due
> to the leaking sunroof on high speeds I never heard anything as I drove
around
> 290km/h on the German Autobahns. But I'm sure I killed it on such high
power,
> long run, high temp circumstances :( >>

Yikes.. do you have an EGT gague?  I have the TRE MASC and in 4th gear on the
Highway I notice the EGT's really start to climb.  What injectors do you have?
With my 15G's and 560's I run 99% injector duty cylce in 4th gear at any boost
over 17psi.

One really helpful tool everyone might be interested in, even if you have a
VPC, is the TRE MASC head unit.  You can buy just the display which will come
with two EGT sensors, hookup for injector duty cylce, and 02 hookups.  It has
a fairly compact (about 4inches by 2inches) display that I mounted right above
my steering column so I can watch the EGT's, pulse widths, and my mv's on
extended HW runs.  VERY helpful tool..

Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6  Best mph: 119.96

ps - how come nobody told me about this list?  Was there a post to the regular
Stealth list I missed?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:01:57 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Cooling

Darc;

Since I have replaced my fog lights with some PIAA 1400, I now have space in
the fog light openings to see if I can route some air into the engine
compartment.    This will be in conjunction with the Bozz Speed bonnet
scoops, that I have already installed.

Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

Darc wrote:

>Have you considered cutting a couple tasteful intakes into the front air
dam and running
>cooling vents into the engine compartment from them? It seems with a
rubuild in sight,
>that now some cooling modifications might be ideal for what appears to be a
problem with
>our cars (heat build up inside the engine compartment.) Has anyone tackled
this idea
>before other than the notion of  (hot) air extractors to replace the hood
blisters in
>Generation 1 modles. (Boz extractors)
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:14:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Fog Lights Question (was: Re: Team3S: Engine Cooling)

Do you have pix posted somewhere of your PIAA 1400's?  Are you satisfied
with their light pattern and output?  Thanks

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

What's the difference between a Mechanical Engineer and a Civil Engineer?
Mechanical Engineers build Weapons, Civil Engineers build Targets!

On Fri, 23 Oct 1998, Jeffrey Young wrote:

> Darc;
>
> Since I have replaced my fog lights with some PIAA 1400, I now have space in
[snip]

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:24:12 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Team3S: Under-Hood Temps (Was: Engine rebuild update)

All:

I haven't solved the problem, but have found a (minor) help re:
under-hood temps.  Remove the rubber weatherstrip that runs along the
top of the firewall, mating with the back of the hood.  This allows air
that enters from under the engine to pass by the engine and exit over
the windshield.  Be gentle when removing the rubber from the plastic
"Tee" fasteners - the strip will rip if pulled hard.

I suppose now that the track season is over and the monsoon season is
starting here in the Pacific Northwet, I really should put mine back.

Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T

wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:

<snippity, clippity, chop>

> [...] Has anyone tackled this idea before other than
> the notion of  (hot) air extractors to replace the hood
> blisters in Generation 1 modles. (Boz extractors)
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:56 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update

The stock ECU combats knock in two ways  When knock is first detected the
ECU retards timing.  Usually this is enough.  When retarding the timing
doesn't cut it the next step is to signal the stock boost solenoid to open
the wastegates.  On a car equipped with an aftermarket electronic boost
controller this feature of course has no effect.

Furthermore, it should be common knowledge that for the VR4 knock WILL occur
just above 15-16 PSI on high grade (92 or so) octane fuel and perhaps
earlier depending upon the operating environment and the actual formulation
of fuel used.  Not all 92 octanes are created equally.  That means that even
1.1 BAR is too much for normally availble pump fuel.  I know Roger had been
running up to 1.3 BAR on pump fuel prior to his extensive dyno testing so
the condition of the engine shouldn't really be that surprising.

There are places on the internet to dig up the formulae for determining the
detonation point of a given grade of fuel for a given cylinder pressure if
people want to research this themselves.

In the USA octane is determined by the (R + M)/2 method.  The research and
motor values are two completely different methods of determining octane and
averaging them is a somewhat fairer method.  Basically though, the higher
the M portion of the equation typically the better for knock prevention.

Another way to combat knock under high cylinder pressures is through the use
of water and/or alcohol injection.  This is an ancient trick from the hot
rod days.  Water has a higher specific heat than alcohol so it is better in
general but alcohol has the added benefit of both being combustible and it
homogenizes with water.  Many people run a mixture of the two.  There are a
number of benefits to this approach that may be best left to another thread.
Water/acohol injection would allow one to run high boost like we all want
without needing to be quite as concerned with the grade of fuel.


Regards,

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Jim Matthews
> Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 10:41 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update
>
>
> R.G. wrote:
> >
> > Furthermore, the Blitz DSBC has two settings that allows to get the most
> > potential out of the car.  [ ... ]
> > In the near future, we'll be able to hook up the diag-system to Jims
> > car as well to find out how the Apexi works :)
>
> I look forward to it!  Let me know when you're ready.  Perhaps
> we could also arrange for a day with Mr. Dyno while I'm down
> there...
>
>
> > Pistons, rings :
> > #4: both rings and part of piston between rings broken, small
> damage to wall
>
> So will they just hone this puppy, or leave it as is?  From
> your description it sounds like they don't plan to do much
> to the block.
>
> Regarding the knock at high speeds - why didn't the knock
> sensor prevent this?  I suppose I run the same risk.  I'm
> not sure I could hear knock at 150+ mph even without a
> sunroof!  I guess your new diag-system could be pretty
> revealing...
>
> Glad to hear things ended up being more affordable than you
> (or I, for that matter!) anticipated.  So I guess you won't
> be forced to drive the Camaro this winter afterall!  :-)
>
> -Jim
>
> P.S.- Remember to save the good 9B!  We need to consult with
> Corky and figure out how to put it on my Honda Odyssey!  :-)
>
> --
> Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
> matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
> http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
> Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
> Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
> Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
> Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:43:22 -0500
From: "Todd D Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update

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I would be curious to know if ANYONE has
actually ever heard knock in a turbo S/3K?
(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a s-scope)
I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and have
yet to AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know it
has occurred.  The Fbody guys have aftermarket
instruments to monitor such occurrences - it
would be nice to have the same for S/3K's.
Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos appears
to be a very 'gray' area so far.  Now that I have the=20
means to actually alter ignition timing it would
be advantageous to become better informed
before I just start 'twisting knobs'.

- - tds

- --------------------------------------------------------------=20
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Jim Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
    To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Friday, October 23, 1998 12:37 PM
    Subject: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update
   =20
   =20
   =20
    Regarding the knock at high speeds - why didn't the knock
    sensor prevent this?  I suppose I run the same risk.  I'm
    not sure I could hear knock at 150+ mph even without a
    sunroof!  I guess your new diag-system could be pretty
    revealing...
   =20


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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I would be curious to know if ANYONE =

has</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>actually ever =
heard knock in=20
a turbo S/3K?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a =
s-scope)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and =
have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>yet to AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know =
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>has occurred.&nbsp; The Fbody guys have=20
aftermarket</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>instruments to monitor such occurrences - =
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>would be nice to have the same for =
S/3K's.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos =
appears</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>to be a very 'gray' area so far.&nbsp; Now that I =
have=20
the&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>means to actually alter =
ignition timing it=20
would</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>be advantageous to become better =
informed</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>before I just start 'twisting knobs'.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>- tds</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>--------------------------------------------------------------&n=
bsp;</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Jim Matthews &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de">matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.=
de</A>&gt;<BR><B>To:=20
    </B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Friday, October 23, 1998 12:37 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Team3S: RE: =
boost=20
    lag, engine rebuild update<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><BR>Regarding the =
knock at=20
    high speeds - why didn't the knock<BR>sensor prevent this?&nbsp; I =
suppose I=20
    run the same risk.&nbsp; I'm<BR>not sure I could hear knock at 150+ =
mph even=20
    without a<BR>sunroof!&nbsp; I guess your new diag-system could be=20
    pretty<BR>revealing...<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:55:04 -0700
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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HKS makes a unique knock monitor.  It uses two microphones, one to monitor
engine noise and one to monitor ambient noise.  The two signals are
differenced to come up with what should hopefully be anomalous noise.  An
earphone allows you to hear the result.  I haven't seen one for sale yet but
they might have it on their website.

I can't say that I have actually ever heard knock on the VR4 either, just
experienced and withnessed the results of it.  I raised the boost above 15
psi a pound at a time until I detected the first signs of detonation on the
plugs and backed off .5 psi or so.  This was 17.5 psi and at that boost
there were just the slightest traces of detonation.  Not good, but
(hopefully) acceptable for short bursts.

Adding 1 can of STP octane booster to 12 gallons of 92 pump allowed me to
run 20 psi without noticeable signs of severe detonation.based on reading
the plugs.  This is not the most reliable determinant so who knows what the
internals look like.

Must be the year for rebuilds.  My engine developed a rather nasty sounding
knocking over a week ago.  I suspect either a dropped valve (a failure
unrelated to detonation) or worse.  Recommendations for an oustanding
machine shop in the Phoenix area are welcomed ;)


Barry
    -----Original Message-----
    From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Todd D Shelton
    Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 11:43 AM
    To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
    Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update


    I would be curious to know if ANYONE has
    actually ever heard knock in a turbo S/3K?
    (Not counting Roger on the dyno with a s-scope)
    I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and have
    yet to AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know it
    has occurred.  The Fbody guys have aftermarket
    instruments to monitor such occurrences - it
    would be nice to have the same for S/3K's.
    Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos appears
    to be a very 'gray' area so far.  Now that I have the
    means to actually alter ignition timing it would
    be advantageous to become better informed
    before I just start 'twisting knobs'.

    - tds

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDFE7B.F8BCD7C0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>HKS=20
makes a unique knock monitor.&nbsp; It uses two microphones, one to =
monitor=20
engine noise and one to monitor ambient noise.&nbsp; The two signals are =

differenced to come up with what should hopefully be anomalous =
noise.&nbsp; An=20
earphone allows you to hear the result.&nbsp; I haven't seen one for =
sale yet=20
but they might have it on their website.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>I=20
can't say that I have actually ever heard knock on the VR4 either, just=20
experienced and withnessed the results of it.&nbsp; I raised the boost =
above 15=20
psi a pound at a time until I detected the first signs of detonation on =
the=20
plugs and backed off .5 psi or so.&nbsp; This was 17.5 psi and at that =
boost=20
there were just the slightest traces of detonation.&nbsp; Not good, but=20
(hopefully) acceptable for short bursts.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Adding=20
1 can of STP octane booster to 12 gallons of 92 pump allowed me to run =
20 psi=20
without noticeable signs of severe detonation.based on reading the =
plugs.&nbsp;=20
This is not the most reliable determinant so who knows what the =
internals look=20
like.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Must=20
be the year for rebuilds.&nbsp; My engine developed a rather nasty =
sounding=20
knocking over a week ago.&nbsp; I suspect either a dropped valve (a =
failure=20
unrelated to detonation) or worse.&nbsp; Recommendations for an =
oustanding=20
machine shop in the Phoenix area are welcomed ;)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2>Barry</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
    owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com=20
    [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]<B>On Behalf Of</B> =
Todd D=20
    Shelton<BR><B>Sent:</B> Friday, October 23, 1998 11:43 =
AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
    stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Team3S: RE: =
boost lag,=20
    engine rebuild update<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I would be curious to know if =
ANYONE=20
    has</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>actually =
ever heard=20
    knock in a turbo S/3K?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a=20
    s-scope)</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and =
have</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>yet to AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know =
it</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>has occurred.&nbsp; The Fbody guys have=20
    aftermarket</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>instruments to monitor such occurrences - =
it</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>would be nice to have the same for =
S/3K's.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos=20
    appears</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>to be a very 'gray' area so far.&nbsp; Now that =
I have=20
    the&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>means to actually alter =
ignition=20
    timing it would</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>be advantageous to become better =
informed</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>before I just start 'twisting =
knobs'.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>- tds</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:18:57 +0100
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tweaking the Blitz DSBC / Diag Tool

> I use the Blitz DSBC and I'm very pleased with it.

Mikael said it all !!

> You can also set scramble mode but I haven't used this feature because I feel
> that my system is working 100% anyway. So I think that would just make things
> more complicated.

I use the scramble mode to be able to control the time & amount of Ratio to be
reduced when reaching the limiter. It also works in conjunction with the normal
limiter. I learned that using a higher Ratio but somewhat lower Gain, the
scramble works "smoother". With lower Ratio settings, the boost difference is
too big and also overboost is higher.

> You will not have any use for higher boost than 1.15 bar because the engine
> will then produce knock and that will retard the ignition and the power will
> get lost.

Well, it depends how healthy the car is :(

> Please note that we all have used very different settings on our Blitz
> controllers so you must test what is best for your car.

Very true ! Fortunately, I was able to test this on the dyno on full load and I
saw what potential this thing has. I just increased the Ratio a little bit and
saw the power figures increasing (also knock after 1.05bars)

> Hope this helps (if not then go visit Roger in Switzerland and he will tune
> it for you)

Sure, and everybody can get a compression test too (bhuaaa)

As promissed, I'm currently developing a diag system for the car. It isn't
really for our cars as it's only a Microcontroller with some A/D ports that can
read voltages and stores the values (10 per second). It has the same display as
the TRE MASC but has some more ports for anything else. It is able to read 8
signals :

- - O2 sensor 1
- - O2 sensor 2
- - rpm
- - knock
- - injectors
- - boost controller solenoid
- - intake manifold pressure (with sensor)

Later, I plan to add other ports to read more signals :

- - EGT 1 (with sensor)
- - EGT 2 (with sensor)
- - pressure before IC (with sensor)
- - pressure after IC (with sensor)
- - Temp before IC (with sensor)
- - Temp after IC (with sensor)
- - any other temp sensor

The produced data will be collected and then can be transmitted to a PC via RS
232 (serial port). The PC can also be connected directly to the diag tool to
have almost unlimited storage. I currently don't know if the display is useful
as it takes too much time to write figures out and therefore reading values per
second would be lowered ! The data can be received by the PC via a simple
terminal program and then be stored as a text file. It then can be read by Excel
and displayed as graphs. It would be nice to make more out of this but I just
don't have the time for this project.

My earlier ideas to get the data out of the ECU went to Nirvana as it's
impossible to get the desired information on how to get the data out of it. I
know the protocol as well as some figures out of it but the ECU never responded
:(

Later,
Roger, 3000GT TT
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