--
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
(Team3S Digest)
To:
stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S Digest V1 #5
Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Sender:
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Team3S Digest
Friday, October 23 1998 Volume
01 : Number
005
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 15:09:49 -0400
From: Bob Fontana <
bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Some new pics
Hello all,
I haven't had time to put these
picture into HTML form yet, but in case
you're interested,
here are the
links. Hopefully your mail clients can startup your brower
from this
message.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r003.jpg
shows the bad cylinder I was running
with. This picture is taken at an
angle looking down into the cylinder.
You can get an idea of the depth of
the groove from this picture, but it
was even deeper than it
looks.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r004.jpg
shows what the 4-bolt main cap looks
like. Compare it to the 2-bolt
main shown at
http://www.gate.net/~mits/maincap.jpg.
In
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r005.jpg
I have the bottom end disassembled
and on the bench getting prepared to take
to the machine shop. This was on
April 30th, 1998.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r007.jpg
shows the inside of the J-E piston
dome. Notice the logo..
In
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r008.jpg
after several double-checks, I
finally got the pistons, rings and rods
perfect and snapped this picture
since this is hopefully the last time I'll
see these babies for a long
time.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r006.jpg
was taken after I got the heads on but
before the timing belt.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r009.jpg
shows the closeup of an intake port.
There's hardly any meat left on
it.
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r010.jpg
shows a closeup of all 3 ports.
I have tons more pictures but they're
related to the timing belt since I
thought I'd try to document that process
and stick it on a page somewhere.
- -Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 12:33:09 -0700
From: Ryan Peterson <
rpeterson@rh2.com>
Subject: Team3S:
manual tranny question
Okay here's a good one. Anyone ever actually
got into their manual
transmission?
There is a small "cap"
on the far right (passenger) end of the tranny
held on with about 8
bolts. I pulled this off so I can chrome it (don't
ask).
Unfortunately, a small (2") brass sprocket popped off as I was
removing
the cap before I could actually see how it was originally
attached. I
know where it goes, but not which direction. The shop
manuals don't get
into the actual guts of the tranny. Anyone been here
before?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 13:07:33 -0800
From: Rich <
rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Re:
Team3S: manual tranny question
Ryan:
You may want to let folks
know which tranny you have (FWD or AWD).
Rich
<no
snips>
Ryan Peterson wrote:
Okay here's a good one.
Anyone ever actually got into their manual
transmission?
There is a
small "cap" on the far right (passenger) end of the tranny
held on
with about 8 bolts. I pulled this off so I can chrome it
(don't
ask). Unfortunately, a small (2") brass sprocket popped off
as I was
removing the cap before I could actually see how it was
originally
attached. I know where it goes, but not which
direction. The shop
manuals don't get into the actual guts of the
tranny. Anyone been here
before?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 22:41:37 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: boost lag
Hi Gang !
Well, I'm back from Crete and my
back really hurts (I hate MTBs now !!).
First, sorry for the confusion.
Jim was absolutely right, as his car had
definitely less lag while mine
seemed to be quicker in the upper rpm range. But
mine always had more lag,
even when shifting on higher or lower rpms.
Why ? The explanation can sit
in my "engine rebuild" update message I'll send ya
tomorrow. Just
in short : Small part of #4 piston between the rings has broken
(no
compression); #2 rings are broken; rear turbo is leaking. Hmmm, I
think
this could be an explanation to the lag :(
Furthermore, the
Blitz DSBC has two settings that allows to get the most
potential out of the
car. I learned that the GAIN setting helped to decrease the
lag while the
RATIO represents the % of the most available boost of the system.
I found out
that the DSBC uses a way to alternate the wastegates and with this
it is able
to reduce lag as well as to hold boost in the upper rpms. When I have
my car
back I start with diagnosing the car as well as recording the behaivour
of
the DSBC solenoid controls. This will maybe bring some light to this :)
In
the near future, we'll be able to hook up the diag-system to Jims car as
well to
find out how the Apexi works :)
Also bigger Turbos will cause
more lag. This because there is simply more mass
to be rotated. But the
european and the US cars (and all others) do have the
same turbos and
therefore we could eliminate this thing. Next week the GT-Alley
turbos will
find their way into the car and I expect only a little bit more lag
as they
are a hybrid design. We will see :)
Even more another IC design can cause
or reduce lag. I will install the FMIC
sometimes after the turbos to have a
good back to back comparison. Also I'll
install temperature and pressure
sensors in the piping to record any loss or
gain as well as to prove the
efficiency of the system.
- -----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,ATR DP/cat,
Borla,OZ
Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Ready:
GT-Alley 368S Turbos,front mount IC/ stainless steel piping,G-Force ECU
(3
EPROMS),fuel pump,VPC,GCC,720 Injectors,Blitz Filter/GT-Alley VPC
adapter,
Maybe: f.aluminum pistons (if rebuild needed)
Visit my homepage
under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 18:45:42 -0400
From: josesini <
josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Transmission Fluids, Short Shifter, etc...
Hello
all,
Before I start asking a bunch of questions I just wanted to
thank
whomever was responsible for starting this list!
Anyhow, as some
of you know I'm STILL in the process of rebuilding my
5sp getrag.
Hopefully it will be done early next week. A lengthy post
on the
rebuild will follow once I get to drive it. For now I've been
gathering
information/opinions on transmission fluids - what and what
not to
use:
From the DSM list:
Mike from DSS (AutoX/Roadrace guru for 2nd
Gen. DSMs) suggest the use of
BG synchroshift and strongly suggest to never
use Redline MTL.
Apparently it has caused premature bearing failure on 6 of
his racing
cars. (not all DSMs)
Dave Buschur (9.5XX second 1/4 mi on
RWD DSM) agrees with Mike from DSS
that the BG synchroshift is great and that
Redline MTL is crap.
2 or 3 other people said they found no better
feeling with BG stuff but
that when changed to the MTL stuff it was like day
and night. I think
they were talking about smoothness (because as I
test-drove a 1st Gen.
DSM and a brand new 98 DSM I noticed the shifting was
very notchy -
ugh!- compared to my Stealth)
From the
Stealth@starnet.net list:
Ed Fein
(AutoX/Roadrace 3Scars) suggests Redline MT-90.
Now I know the
DSMs transmissions are a lot different than ours. To put
it in perspective
here's a quote from the chief mechanic where my tranny
is being
rebuilt:
"For the 3S trannys I would only trust one of my mechanics and
myself,
for the DSM's tranny, even my 14yr old son could rebuild that
one."
Any suggestions from this group? BTW Redline Shockproof
Heavy in
transfercase and the rear diff. right?
Regarding the
SHIFTER, I would like to upgrade it/improve it, because I
noticed (when
racing 1/4mi and autoX) that during fast shifts from 1st
to 2nd, the grinding
(the tranny was already bad) increased if my hand
pulled back and to the
left. If I tried to concentrate and pull
straight back, the grinding
was less.
Will the C's short shifter address this play that exists on
the current
shifter, or should I replace all the bushings with metal ones to
remove
any play. Of course this will increase the probability of
missing a
gear during a 1/4 mi run! But if you're good it doesn't
matter. :)
Oh yeah, when I write the rebuild post, I will include an
evaluation on
the ACT clutch with the solid (no springs) 6 puck
copper/ceramic pads.
Later,
Jose Sinibaldi
'92 Stealth
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 16:23:59 -0700
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Team3S:
Gentle reminder
A gentle reminder: Everyone please pay attention to the
rules agreed to
when your subscription was undertaken. Half wit comments
relating to
life apart from 3S topics are not encouraged, and will in
likelihood
find the author of the same looking for a new group to share jokes
with.
We are sincere and serious here, and want this list to
stay
professional. It doesn't get any better than the first rate bunch
of
guys who are here now, and we certainly don't want another
exodus
occurring because there was too much water in the
wine.
Darcy
92 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 19:53:08 EDT
From:
Aso8@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S: Transmission
Fluids, Short Shifter, etc...
I have the C's shifter on my 91 VR-4. Not
at all happy with it. Has tendency
to jam at the worst time. It may need a
better return spring. I'd go for the
bushings first and then cut off about 1
or 2 inches of the old shift stick. It
will be less $ & much
better.
Arty 91 VR-4
n a message dated 10/22/98 10:48:17 PM !!!First
Boot!!!,
josesini@engin.umich.edu
writes:
<<
Regarding the SHIFTER, I would like to upgrade
it/improve it, because I
noticed (when racing 1/4mi and autoX) that during
fast shifts from 1st
to 2nd, the grinding (the tranny was already bad)
increased if my hand
pulled back and to the left. If I tried to
concentrate and pull
straight back, the grinding was less.
Will the
C's short shifter address this play that exists on the current
shifter, or
should I replace all the bushings with metal ones to remove
any play.
Of course this will increase the probability of missing a
gear during a 1/4
mi run! But if you're good it doesn't matter. :)
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 21:01:28 -0500
From: "Dennis Moore" <
stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S:
Some new pics
In 98R008.jpg, what are the rings that look like they're
scribed into the
tops of your pistons? Valve impact prints?
Ouch!
Dennis
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Fontana
<
bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
'Stealth List' <
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, October 22, 1998 2:10 PM
Subject: Team3S: Some new
pics
[snip]
>In
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r008.jpg
after several double-checks, I
>finally got the pistons, rings and rods
perfect and snapped this picture
>since this is hopefully the last time
I'll see these babies for a long
>time.
>
[snip]
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Thu, 22 Oct 1998 20:24:01 -0700
From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <
errin@u.washington.edu>
Subject:
Team3S: Glad to Be Here!
Hi All!
Thanks to Bob Forrest, Darc, and
Mikael for the kind
invitations they sent me! I am enthusiastic in
joining this
new list, and I look forward to much joyful enlightment
while
participating on it. ^_^
Many have been asking about Hau, so here's
the scoop.
Hau's @ss is still down in Brazil, and it looks like he
is
going to be there for a while. He says he will be visiting
his
house here in WA sometime in November, but that
is what he has told me each
of the past 3 months. Hau
plans to apply for the MBA program at the UW
(where
I currently attend), so I just picked up the application
for
him. His Stealth (with a bunch of my stuff on it) is
sitting in the
garage collecting dust, and his house ...
If you want to email Hau, here
is his address. On Starnet,
I wouldn't feel comfortable posting it, but
since we all know
each other this shouldn't be a problem. I'm starting
to love
this list more already!
yhauwang@hotmail.comIf you write
to him, be sure and remind him that his cats
are starving to death. I
have only been able to go over to
his place on occasion in order to feed the
poor things.
Here is Hau's cellphone # which he almost always
answers
anytime from noon until the wee hours of the
morning:
011-55-92-989-2000
Be advised that calling Brazil is
extremely expensive. I
found out the hard way. But I am sure that
Hau would love
to hear from all of you, even if for only a few
minutes.
Also, Hau told me that he plans to get back on IRC, since
you
haven't seen him there in a while. He generally gets on
very late
(~11pm PST which is 2am in Brazil).
Barry just sent me an email regarding
exhaust system issues
for our cars, so it will take me a while to digest and
ponder it,
but be looking for a post from me on the issue in the
near
future.
Yours truly,
- --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 02:05:44 -0400
From: josesini <
josesini@engin.umich.edu>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Transmission Fluids, Short Shifter,
etc...
Arty,
Thanks for your input. Besides the C's shifter
I'm also considering the
shifter Buschur racing is selling for our
cars. It's only $75 w/ core
or $100 w/out core. Apparently it is
longer in the bottom and shorter
on top - yielding shorter throws between
gears. Also for some reason I
think the angle has been changed.
I'm not clear on what angle?
Jose
92 TT
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> I have the
C's shifter on my 91 VR-4. Not at all happy with it. Has tendency
> to jam
at the worst time. It may need a better return spring. I'd go for the
>
bushings first and then cut off about 1 or 2 inches of the old shift stick.
It
> will be less $ & much better.
> Arty 91 VR-4
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 09:29:24 +0200
From:
"=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S:
3000GT.com
I'm not sure if you guys know this or not.
3000gt.com
is UP !!!!!!!!
http://www.3000gt.com/Mikael
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:03:24 +0100
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine rebuild update (long!)
Hi gang :)
Well, I'm back
from my short holiday that I used to bring down my nerves and to
take a good
breath. I really needed it. Now my back hurts from the MTB and the
horrible
hills on Crete :)
Back to my rebuild:
Some of you know what
happened to my car: knock, oil blasted out by the BOV,
engine on fire and
more headaches. Finally I had my car on the dyno again and
only got 337hp
with a lot of timing retarded. Also during this run the oil cap
started
leaking and oil got pressed out from the dipstick. This leaded to the
thought
that there is too much pressure in the crankcase and the oil is pressed
into
the intake via the ventilation lines. But where is this pressure coming
from
? Turbos ? Pistons, rings ? I then got a compression tester and took
the
intake away to reach the rear bank.
Compression test :
#1
(115psi) #2 (106) #3 (105) #6 (126) showed low figures put in an
acceptable
range. Only #6 was good (over 120psi). But I know that a good car
should read
figures around 135-145psi !! #5 was bad with only 98psi but #4
was dead with
only 66psi. The mechanic then checked the compression again
with a tool that
lets him apply pressure to the cylinder that pressed the
piston down to BDC. He
was then able to "hear" the pressure blowing
out to the intake on the front.
This disappeared as he cleaned the parts by
injecting a special acid fluid
directly into the fuel rails. I made a retest
of the compression afterwards and
the figures where only a few psi
better.
Stetoscopic inspection :
#4 caused so much headache that we
decided to screw in a stetoscope to check the
pistons and the walls. We then
did this on all cyls to be sure. I was happy not
to find any damage but we
found a lot clog from the too much burnt oil on the
pistons.
Fire
:
After installing the G-Force ECU I got a loud pop under the hood and knew
that
the y-pipe popped off (the first time for me) But as I rolled out blue
smoke
came out of the hood and I was lucky to have a fire extinguisher handy.
The rear
bank was on fire but I was happy to kill it within seconds by
spraying sand
allover the engine (urgh). The car then went back to Mitsu for
the fire
inspection and we thought about a broken turbo-housing that spilled
oil over the
manifold that then got ignited. Fortunately we found out it was
a plastic bag
with something in there that was stuck over the y-pipe that got
burned and
caused the fire. I never though that this can burn so grassy.
Nothing was hurt
on the car due to the little $9 extinguisher
!!!!
Turbo :
As the car was at Mitsu again, I told them to take the
engine apart to find out
what the problem is. The first they found was the
rear turbo leaking oil into
the piping. The mechanic told me that this is
because the heat problem but they
never had any problem with them yet (yeah
but nobody boosted it up like me in
Europe). No problem as the new ones are
lying on the floor :)
Pistons, rings :
First they took the rear bank
apart. Here the results :
#2: broken ring, no damage to wall
#4: both
rings and part of piston between rings broken, small damage to wall
#6: rings
worn, no damage to wall
Afterwards they also took the front bank apart
:
#1: broken ring, no damage to wall
#3: ok
#5: ring broken, piston had
small cracks !! no damage to wall
Head, valves, gaskets :
They
measured out the heads and found absolutely no problem with them. Even
the
gaskets looked brandnew. Also the valves and valve-train is 100%
perfect.
Unfortunately we do only have a few shops that can do a polish or
porting job
here in Switzerland. And they want about $2000 for this !! No,
too expensive for
only a few horses.
Finally :
The Mitsu experts
say that the car must have had very heavy bad knock. IMHO, due
to the leaking
sunroof on high speeds I never heard anything as I drove around
290km/h on
the German Autobahns. But I'm sure I killed it on such high power,
long run,
high temp circumstances :(
Before the rebuilt was started, I got an offer
on a forged aluminum piston set
for $850. Mitsu then told me that the
original pistons are good aluminum ones
and that they will be balanced and
sent to a special shop for preparing. I don't
know what this shop did but
they looked liked forged ones afterwards ;) I will
pay about $95 per piston
and another $80 for rings and pinions set. To bad the
pistons are in now
before I saw the JE piston post :( But Mitsu told me not to
give any warranty
on their work if I want not original Mitsu pistons. Also we
decided not to
overbore the walls more than it was needed due to the very small
damage to
the #4 cylinder. Therefore I have again original sized pistons sitting
in the
bores. The car should still be capable for enough horses !
Hey, would you
believe that a car with such a damage still is able to produce
around 340
horses ??? Mine did ...
I'll be taking some pictures of the parts today
and on monday and add them to my
pages pretty soon. Of course I have to
gather everything together to be able to
document what really went wrong and
I hope it will then help everyone to get the
most out of their cars without
any damage and costs. BTW, the whole rebuild
costs me $2800. To be honest, I
expected much more :)
Take care, guys !
Roger
-
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
(Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 14:09:19 +0200
From:
"=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch
and AMG S60 race
Hi
My clutch have now started to slip after only
10000 miles.
I planned to buy a new one from Centerforce or Clutchmaster.
Chien (nexus) told me that the clutchmaster stage 3 will hold for more miles
than the Centerforce.
If you are interested in a new clutch look at
http://cyber1.virtualrep.com/perfintl/search.tpl
These guys sell the Centerforce clutch for 500$, that's a really good price.
(Nexus sell the same for 650! Sorry Chien) I talked to the manager and he was
very helpful.
BUT I have deceided to go with a custom solution. I will
use a cinter (not sure about the word but it's non organic) disc from a ford
(cosworth) that have the same spline size. I will use the stock preasure plate.
The flywheel will be resurfaced and the preasure plate will be flat
grinded.
This setup will hold alot more power and will hold many miles. The
thudding sound problem will also be solved with this kind of disc.
The total
cost for me will be ~350$.
BTW our preasure plates press 1200kg and that
is very very much. That kind of preasure shall hold 700hp with a good disc
!!!
I let you all know how it work out.
BTW I raced a Mercedes AMG
S60 yesterday. I was faster but that monster was really fast. They have
381 HP and the same weight that we have. His rear wheels where slipping in the
curves at over 100 miles/h, Very scaaaary... I really love my awd. If you don't
have any mods doen to your car you better look the other way if you get
challenged by one of these sleepers.
/Mikael
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 15:04:04 +0200
From:
"=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
Subject: Team3S: good www
page
Hi
If you are interested in learning how cars work then have
a look at
http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101.htmlThis
is basic info but worth reading.
These are the topics that the page
covers.
Braking / ABS Systems
Cooling Systems
Electricial Systems
A/C & Heating
Systems
Engine Systems
Exhaust Systems
Fuel &
Intake Systems
Suspension & Steering
Drive Train
/Mikael
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 10:18:37 -0700
From:
wce@bc.sympatico.caSubject: Re:
Team3S: Engine rebuild update (long!)
R.G. wrote:
> The Mitsu
experts say that the car must have had very heavy bad knock. IMHO, due
>
to the leaking sunroof on high speeds I never heard anything as I drove
around
> 290km/h on the German Autobahns. But I'm sure I killed it on such
high power,
> long run, high temp circumstances :(
Have you
considered cutting a couple tasteful intakes into the front air dam and
running
cooling vents into the engine compartment from them? It seems with a
rubuild in sight,
that now some cooling modifications might be ideal for what
appears to be a problem with
our cars (heat build up inside the engine
compartment.) Has anyone tackled this idea
before other than the notion
of (hot) air extractors to replace the hood blisters in
Generation 1
modles. (Boz extractors)
I'll be taking some pictures of the parts today
and on monday and add them to my
> pages pretty soon. Of course I have
to gather everything together to be able to
> document what really went
wrong and I hope it will then help everyone to get the
> most out of their
cars without any damage and costs. BTW, the whole rebuild
> costs me
$2800. To be honest, I expected much more :)
>
Now that's a pretty
damn decent price Roger. Why cann't all dealers be as decent, or
obviously as
knowledgeable as the people you deal with!
Darc
92 Stealth
TT...still anxiously awaiting arrival of my BC.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:24:29 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Clutch and AMG S60 race
Mikael Åkesson wrote:
>
> My clutch have now started to slip after only 10000 miles.
This
is consistent with the experiences of many others I have
seen post to the old
list. Clutchmasters does not have the
best reputation.
My
question is, just how bad is the stock clutch? I for one
have been very
impressed with my stock clutch, which now has
over 65,000 miles, 20,000 miles
of which has been with the AVC-R.
The only problem I've ever experienced is
with bad launches.
If I over-slip the clutch, it will not grab. But if
I launch
properly, it seems just fine, even now with this much mileage.
Of
course at some point I plan to be pushing more horsepower
through the
drivetrain, so perhaps it wouldn't fare as well...
But when it comes time
to replace this clutch, I will be VERY
tempted to go with OEM. From
what I've read, the best aftermarket
clutch is probably the Centerforce
Dual-Friction. Though
I must say that the Cosworth system Mikael is
looking into
sounds pretty intriguing...
Regarding the AMG, I
encountered one a few months ago.
We both seemed interested in seeing how the
cars would
stack up, but we were on a slow, crowded road along the
Rhein
River and had no opportunities to, ah, you know. ;-)
Glad to hear you
edged him out, Mikael!
-Jim
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:41:14 +0100
From: Jim Matthews <
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject:
Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild update
R.G. wrote:
>
>
Furthermore, the Blitz DSBC has two settings that allows to get the most
>
potential out of the car. [ ... ]
> In the near future, we'll be
able to hook up the diag-system to Jims
> car as well to find out how the
Apexi works :)
I look forward to it! Let me know when you're
ready. Perhaps
we could also arrange for a day with Mr. Dyno while I'm
down
there...
> Pistons, rings :
> #4: both rings and
part of piston between rings broken, small damage to wall
So will they
just hone this puppy, or leave it as is? From
your description it
sounds like they don't plan to do much
to the block.
Regarding the
knock at high speeds - why didn't the knock
sensor prevent this? I
suppose I run the same risk. I'm
not sure I could hear knock at 150+
mph even without a
sunroof! I guess your new diag-system could be
pretty
revealing...
Glad to hear things ended up being more affordable
than you
(or I, for that matter!) anticipated. So I guess you
won't
be forced to drive the Camaro this winter afterall!
:-)
-Jim
P.S.- Remember to save the good 9B! We need to
consult with
Corky and figure out how to put it on my Honda Odyssey!
:-)
- --
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.htmlJet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0
bar @ 70/84% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix
brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:31:53 EDT
From:
LotoBoost@aol.comSubject: Re: Team3S:
Engine rebuild update (long!)
In a message dated 98-10-23 13:23:10 EDT,
you write:
<< > The Mitsu experts say that the car must have had
very heavy bad knock.
IMHO, due
> to the leaking sunroof on high speeds
I never heard anything as I drove
around
> 290km/h on the German
Autobahns. But I'm sure I killed it on such high
power,
> long run,
high temp circumstances :( >>
Yikes.. do you have an EGT
gague? I have the TRE MASC and in 4th gear on the
Highway I notice the
EGT's really start to climb. What injectors do you have?
With my 15G's
and 560's I run 99% injector duty cylce in 4th gear at any boost
over
17psi.
One really helpful tool everyone might be interested in, even if
you have a
VPC, is the TRE MASC head unit. You can buy just the display
which will come
with two EGT sensors, hookup for injector duty cylce, and 02
hookups. It has
a fairly compact (about 4inches by 2inches) display
that I mounted right above
my steering column so I can watch the EGT's, pulse
widths, and my mv's on
extended HW runs. VERY helpful tool..
Mike Mahaffey - '94 Stealth tt Best et: 11.6 Best mph:
119.96
ps - how come nobody told me about this list? Was there a
post to the regular
Stealth list I missed?
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 12:01:57 -0600
From: "Jeffrey Young" <
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
Subject:
Team3S: Engine Cooling
Darc;
Since I have replaced my fog lights
with some PIAA 1400, I now have space in
the fog light openings to see if I
can route some air into the engine
compartment. This will
be in conjunction with the Bozz Speed bonnet
scoops, that I have already
installed.
Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealthDarc
wrote:
>Have you considered cutting a couple tasteful intakes into the
front air
dam and running
>cooling vents into the engine compartment
from them? It seems with a
rubuild in sight,
>that now some cooling
modifications might be ideal for what appears to be a
problem with
>our
cars (heat build up inside the engine compartment.) Has anyone tackled
this
idea
>before other than the notion of (hot) air extractors to
replace the hood
blisters in
>Generation 1 modles. (Boz
extractors)
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFor
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:14:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore
<stealth@kiva.net>
Subject: Fog Lights Question (was: Re: Team3S:
Engine Cooling)
Do you have pix posted somewhere of your PIAA
1400's? Are you satisfied
with their light pattern and output?
Thanks
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
What's the difference
between a Mechanical Engineer and a Civil Engineer?
Mechanical Engineers
build Weapons, Civil Engineers build Targets!
On Fri, 23 Oct 1998,
Jeffrey Young wrote:
> Darc;
>
> Since I have replaced my
fog lights with some PIAA 1400, I now have space in
[snip]
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:24:12 -0800
From: Rich
<rleroy@pacifier.com>
Subject: Team3S: Under-Hood Temps (Was: Engine
rebuild update)
All:
I haven't solved the problem, but have found
a (minor) help re:
under-hood temps. Remove the rubber weatherstrip
that runs along the
top of the firewall, mating with the back of the
hood. This allows air
that enters from under the engine to pass by the
engine and exit over
the windshield. Be gentle when removing the rubber
from the plastic
"Tee" fasteners - the strip will rip if pulled
hard.
I suppose now that the track season is over and the monsoon season
is
starting here in the Pacific Northwet, I really should put mine
back.
Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
<snippity, clippity, chop>
> [...] Has anyone
tackled this idea before other than
> the notion of (hot) air
extractors to replace the hood
> blisters in Generation 1 modles. (Boz
extractors)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:22:56 -0700
From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild
update
The stock ECU combats knock in two ways When knock is first
detected the
ECU retards timing. Usually this is enough. When
retarding the timing
doesn't cut it the next step is to signal the stock
boost solenoid to open
the wastegates. On a car equipped with an
aftermarket electronic boost
controller this feature of course has no
effect.
Furthermore, it should be common knowledge that for the VR4 knock
WILL occur
just above 15-16 PSI on high grade (92 or so) octane fuel and
perhaps
earlier depending upon the operating environment and the actual
formulation
of fuel used. Not all 92 octanes are created equally.
That means that even
1.1 BAR is too much for normally availble pump
fuel. I know Roger had been
running up to 1.3 BAR on pump fuel prior to
his extensive dyno testing so
the condition of the engine shouldn't really be
that surprising.
There are places on the internet to dig up the formulae
for determining the
detonation point of a given grade of fuel for a given
cylinder pressure if
people want to research this themselves.
In the
USA octane is determined by the (R + M)/2 method. The research
and
motor values are two completely different methods of determining octane
and
averaging them is a somewhat fairer method. Basically though, the
higher
the M portion of the equation typically the better for knock
prevention.
Another way to combat knock under high cylinder pressures is
through the use
of water and/or alcohol injection. This is an ancient
trick from the hot
rod days. Water has a higher specific heat than
alcohol so it is better in
general but alcohol has the added benefit of both
being combustible and it
homogenizes with water. Many people run a
mixture of the two. There are a
number of benefits to this approach
that may be best left to another thread.
Water/acohol injection would allow
one to run high boost like we all want
without needing to be quite as
concerned with the grade of fuel.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Jim Matthews
>
Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998 10:41 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine
rebuild update
>
>
> R.G. wrote:
> >
> >
Furthermore, the Blitz DSBC has two settings that allows to get the most
>
> potential out of the car. [ ... ]
> > In the near future,
we'll be able to hook up the diag-system to Jims
> > car as well to
find out how the Apexi works :)
>
> I look forward to it! Let
me know when you're ready. Perhaps
> we could also arrange for a day
with Mr. Dyno while I'm down
> there...
>
>
> >
Pistons, rings :
> > #4: both rings and part of piston between rings
broken, small
> damage to wall
>
> So will they just hone this
puppy, or leave it as is? From
> your description it sounds like
they don't plan to do much
> to the block.
>
> Regarding the
knock at high speeds - why didn't the knock
> sensor prevent this? I
suppose I run the same risk. I'm
> not sure I could hear knock at
150+ mph even without a
> sunroof! I guess your new diag-system
could be pretty
> revealing...
>
> Glad to hear things ended
up being more affordable than you
> (or I, for that matter!)
anticipated. So I guess you won't
> be forced to drive the Camaro
this winter afterall! :-)
>
> -Jim
>
> P.S.-
Remember to save the good 9B! We need to consult with
> Corky and
figure out how to put it on my Honda Odyssey! :-)
>
>
--
> Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
> matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
(64 Kbps ISDN)
>
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
> *** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
> Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
> Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
> K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @
70/84% BADC)
> A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
>
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
> Metal Matrix brake
pads, custom braided brake lines
> Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS
(so far): 166mph
> G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9
mph
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 13:43:22 -0500
From: "Todd D Shelton"
<tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild
update
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_007A_01BDFE8B.19A20640
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text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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quoted-printable
I would be curious to know if ANYONE has
actually
ever heard knock in a turbo S/3K?
(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a
s-scope)
I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and have
yet to AUDIBLY detect
knock yet I know it
has occurred. The Fbody guys have
aftermarket
instruments to monitor such occurrences - it
would be nice to
have the same for S/3K's.
Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos
appears
to be a very 'gray' area so far. Now that I have
the=20
means to actually alter ignition timing it would
be advantageous to
become better informed
before I just start 'twisting knobs'.
- -
tds
-
--------------------------------------------------------------=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday,
October 23, 1998 12:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: RE: boost lag,
engine rebuild update
=20
=20
=20
Regarding the knock at high speeds - why didn't the
knock
sensor prevent this? I suppose I run the same
risk. I'm
not sure I could hear knock at 150+ mph
even without a
sunroof! I guess your new diag-system
could be pretty
revealing...
=20
- ------=_NextPart_000_007A_01BDFE8B.19A20640
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I would
be curious to know if ANYONE
=
has</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>actually ever =
heard knock
in=20
a turbo S/3K?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a
=
s-scope)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm
stuck with 91 octane pump gas and
=
have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>yet to
AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know
=
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>has
occurred. The Fbody guys
have=20
aftermarket</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>instruments to monitor such occurrences -
=
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>would be
nice to have the same for
=
S/3K's.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos
=
appears</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>to be a
very 'gray' area so far. Now that I
=
have=20
the </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>means to actually alter
=
ignition timing
it=20
would</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>be
advantageous to become better
=
informed</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>before
I just start 'twisting knobs'.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>- tds</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>--------------------------------------------------------------&n=
bsp;</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:
#000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:
=
5px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2><B>-----Original
=
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Jim Matthews <<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de">matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.=
de</A>><BR><B>To:=20
</B><A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>=20
<<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Friday, October 23, 1998 12:37 PM<BR><B>Subject:
</B>Team3S: RE: =
boost=20
lag, engine rebuild
update<BR><BR></FONT></DIV><BR>Regarding the
=
knock at=20
high speeds - why didn't the
knock<BR>sensor prevent this? I =
suppose
I=20
run the same risk. I'm<BR>not sure I
could hear knock at 150+ =
mph even=20
without
a<BR>sunroof! I guess your new diag-system could
be=20
pretty<BR>revealing...<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_007A_01BDFE8B.19A20640--
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 11:55:04 -0700
From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RE: boost lag, engine rebuild
update
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
-
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDFE7B.F8BCD7C0
Content-Type:
text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
HKS makes a unique knock monitor. It uses two microphones, one
to monitor
engine noise and one to monitor ambient noise. The two
signals are
differenced to come up with what should hopefully be anomalous
noise. An
earphone allows you to hear the result. I haven't seen
one for sale yet but
they might have it on their website.
I can't say
that I have actually ever heard knock on the VR4 either, just
experienced and
withnessed the results of it. I raised the boost above 15
psi a pound
at a time until I detected the first signs of detonation on the
plugs and
backed off .5 psi or so. This was 17.5 psi and at that boost
there were
just the slightest traces of detonation. Not good, but
(hopefully)
acceptable for short bursts.
Adding 1 can of STP octane booster to 12
gallons of 92 pump allowed me to
run 20 psi without noticeable signs of
severe detonation.based on reading
the plugs. This is not the most
reliable determinant so who knows what the
internals look like.
Must
be the year for rebuilds. My engine developed a rather nasty
sounding
knocking over a week ago. I suspect either a dropped valve (a
failure
unrelated to detonation) or worse. Recommendations for an
oustanding
machine shop in the Phoenix area are welcomed
;)
Barry
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On
Behalf Of Todd D Shelton
Sent: Friday, October 23, 1998
11:43 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE:
boost lag, engine rebuild update
I would be
curious to know if ANYONE has
actually ever heard knock in
a turbo S/3K?
(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a
s-scope)
I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and
have
yet to AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know
it
has occurred. The Fbody guys have
aftermarket
instruments to monitor such occurrences -
it
would be nice to have the same for
S/3K's.
Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos
appears
to be a very 'gray' area so far. Now that I
have the
means to actually alter ignition timing it
would
be advantageous to become better
informed
before I just start 'twisting
knobs'.
- tds
-
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDFE7B.F8BCD7C0
Content-Type:
text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3
HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2>HKS=20
makes a unique knock monitor. It uses two
microphones, one to =
monitor=20
engine noise and one to monitor ambient
noise. The two signals are =
differenced to come up with what
should hopefully be anomalous =
noise. An=20
earphone allows you
to hear the result. I haven't seen one for =
sale yet=20
but
they might have it on their
website.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2>I=20
can't say that I have actually ever heard knock on the
VR4 either, just=20
experienced and withnessed the results of it. I
raised the boost =
above 15=20
psi a pound at a time until I detected the
first signs of detonation on =
the=20
plugs and backed off .5 psi or
so. This was 17.5 psi and at that =
boost=20
there were just the
slightest traces of detonation. Not good, but=20
(hopefully)
acceptable for short
bursts.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2>Adding=20
1 can of STP octane booster to 12 gallons of 92
pump allowed me to run =
20 psi=20
without noticeable signs of severe
detonation.based on reading the =
plugs. =20
This is not the most
reliable determinant so who knows what the =
internals
look=20
like.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2>Must=20
be the year for rebuilds. My engine
developed a rather nasty =
sounding=20
knocking over a week ago.
I suspect either a dropped valve (a =
failure=20
unrelated to detonation)
or worse. Recommendations for an =
oustanding=20
machine shop in
the Phoenix area are welcomed
;)</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV><SPAN
class=3D880264618-23101998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial
=
size=3D2>Barry</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:
#0000ff solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:
=
5px">
<DIV
class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New
Roman"=20
size=3D2>-----Original
Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com=20
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]<B>On Behalf Of</B>
=
Todd D=20
Shelton<BR><B>Sent:</B>
Friday, October 23, 1998 11:43
=
AM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com<BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: Team3S:
RE: =
boost lag,=20
engine rebuild
update<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I would be curious to know if
=
ANYONE=20
has</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>actually =
ever
heard=20
knock in a turbo
S/3K?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>(Not counting Roger on the dyno with a=20
s-scope)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>I'm stuck with 91 octane pump gas and
=
have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>yet to AUDIBLY detect knock yet I know
=
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>has occurred. The Fbody guys have=20
aftermarket</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>instruments to monitor such occurrences -
=
it</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>would be nice to have the same for
=
S/3K's.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Ignition timing on modified S/3K turbos=20
appears</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>to be a very 'gray' area so far. Now that =
I
have=20
the </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>means to actually alter
=
ignition=20
timing it
would</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>be advantageous to become better
=
informed</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>before I just start 'twisting
=
knobs'.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-
tds</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
-
------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BDFE7B.F8BCD7C0--
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------------------------------
Date:
Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:18:57 +0100
From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tweaking the Blitz DSBC /
Diag Tool
> I use the Blitz DSBC and I'm very pleased with
it.
Mikael said it all !!
> You can also set scramble mode but
I haven't used this feature because I feel
> that my system is working
100% anyway. So I think that would just make things
> more
complicated.
I use the scramble mode to be able to control the time &
amount of Ratio to be
reduced when reaching the limiter. It also works in
conjunction with the normal
limiter. I learned that using a higher Ratio but
somewhat lower Gain, the
scramble works "smoother". With lower
Ratio settings, the boost difference is
too big and also overboost is
higher.
> You will not have any use for higher boost than 1.15 bar
because the engine
> will then produce knock and that will retard the
ignition and the power will
> get lost.
Well, it depends how
healthy the car is :(
> Please note that we all have used very
different settings on our Blitz
> controllers so you must test what is
best for your car.
Very true ! Fortunately, I was able to test this on
the dyno on full load and I
saw what potential this thing has. I just
increased the Ratio a little bit and
saw the power figures increasing (also
knock after 1.05bars)
> Hope this helps (if not then go visit Roger in
Switzerland and he will tune
> it for you)
Sure, and everybody can
get a compression test too (bhuaaa)
As promissed, I'm currently
developing a diag system for the car. It isn't
really for our cars as it's
only a Microcontroller with some A/D ports that can
read voltages and stores
the values (10 per second). It has the same display as
the TRE MASC but has
some more ports for anything else. It is able to read 8
signals :
- -
O2 sensor 1
- - O2 sensor 2
- - rpm
- - knock
- - injectors
- -
boost controller solenoid
- - intake manifold pressure (with
sensor)
Later, I plan to add other ports to read more signals :
-
- EGT 1 (with sensor)
- - EGT 2 (with sensor)
- - pressure before IC (with
sensor)
- - pressure after IC (with sensor)
- - Temp before IC (with
sensor)
- - Temp after IC (with sensor)
- - any other temp
sensor
The produced data will be collected and then can be transmitted to
a PC via RS
232 (serial port). The PC can also be connected directly to the
diag tool to
have almost unlimited storage. I currently don't know if the
display is useful
as it takes too much time to write figures out and
therefore reading values per
second would be lowered ! The data can be
received by the PC via a simple
terminal program and then be stored as a text
file. It then can be read by Excel
and displayed as graphs. It would be nice
to make more out of this but I just
don't have the time for this project.
My earlier ideas to get the data out of the ECU went to Nirvana as
it's
impossible to get the desired information on how to get the data out of
it. I
know the protocol as well as some figures out of it but the ECU never
responded
:(
Later,
Roger, 3000GT TT
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