--

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 05:40:45 1999
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Content-Identifier: re: am noise/rattle in a 92 3000VR4
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 07:38 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject: Team3S: re: am noise/rattle in a 92 3000VR4
To: kevin_volkan@hms.harvard.edu
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I've had the same or similar sound on my VR4 for about 3 years. It started at
around 70K miles. It is very similar to the sound that a clutch-release bearing
makes when it goes bad. Mine only does this on cold mornings( below 40
degress). After warm-up the noise quits. It also quits if the clutch pedal is
depressed, and starts again when the pedeal is released,  which is what lead me
to think it was the release bearing. Last December, I replaced the bearing, but
on cold mornings, I still hear the noise. So I don't have a clue ! From what I
can tell, it doesn't seem to be hurting anything, and it's not getting any
worse (or louder).

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4

Original Message:

>My car is a '92 3000 VR4 with 58K miles on it. The car is in excellent
>condition, with no problems other than the typical notchy shifter and some
>slight ticking at startup. When I listen closely when I start the car up
>after it has sat overnight, I can hear a faint rattling sound. When I
>popped the hood I could still hear the sound like it was comming from the
>middle of the car nearest the winshield, perhaps under the engine. The
>noise does not increase with engine rpm and disappears after the car has
>warmed up after a minute or so. The engine makes good power and runs
>smoothly. the only mod to the car is an HKS manual boost controller which
>is set at about 13.5psi (I think 9 is the stock setting). The timing belt
>and waterpump were replaced 1K miles ago. The sound only occurs in the am
>after the car has sat all night. When I restart the car during the day the
>sound does not manifest, even if the car has been sitting for 5-6 hrs.



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 06:27:43 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Problem from an SL owner in Canada (he really needs help)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 15:27:39 +0200
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Friends,

I got a help call from an SL owner living in Canada. Please see the mail
attached to this post as well as my answer. Maybe some of you do have
another idea and, especially, may be able to help him in the same "time"
area.

Thanks,
Roger

-------------------------
Original Message from Dave Bette bette@xcelco.on.ca

Roger I know your expertise is the twin turbo but I am a desperate man my
91gt sl died, well sort of. It started loseing power and then became very
noisy. I got home but my friend who is a mechanic listened to it and
suggested towing it to the shop he works at. It will start fine but idles
very poorly and when you rev it you get a very unhealthy sound from the
lower valve train. I am from Canada and the mechanic I have has very little
experience with these cars. He does not want to start replacing valves on a
hunch but is unsure where to start nothing showed up on the scope. He now
has the front valve cover off and the plenum as well so he can’t start
it. He says that when it was running it was pouring the gas to it you could
actually smell it so this was causing it to run lean. But his real concern
is with the noise as is mine. If you have any suggestions I would be very
greatful. I take extreemly good care of this car and am continually
frustrated with how often it is down. This may be the last straw once again
any info please if you send info could you send it to this adress as well
as the one from witch this note originates from

----------------------
My answer :

Hi Dave,

I followed your problem and I hope it is not that bad as I suppose it is.
These are my advises :
- let your mechanic check the compression on every cylinder. As the plenum
is off this can be done easy (I always do this myselfs). The readings must
be over 120psi on all chambers. If they are not you have a serious problem
either with the valves or the pistons.
- Let him do the spark firing check. If only one plug is bad, the engine my
sound crazy.
- Let him check all motor rubber mounts. One may be broken and can causes
the strange sound.
- if compression was ok and the rest too (i.e. no problem found yet) put
the plenum back (covers too) and start it. Stop it and unplug the MAS
connector. Start it again and check if it runns weaker now. If the behaviour
doesn't
change, the MAS is at least one problem. This can easier be checked with a
code scanner of course.

Also when fuel is poured in this cause a ultra-rich and not a lean
condition. How do the plugs look like ?

Questions :
- how was the oil pressure reading when the problem started ?
- did the "Service Engine" light came up ?
- how was the water temperature reading ?
- does your friend have access to a code scanner ?
- did the sound change when you pressed the clutch or being in neutral ?
- any blue, black or white smoke when idleing ?

Other suggestions :
- Let him check the ignition parts. I do not know the SL in this case but
if only 3 cyls are firing the car doesn't sound nice.
- Unhook the battery to reset the battery (I don't believe that this is a
problem)

David, if none of these things helps, I must assume that a crankshaft
bearing is shot or even more a rod or the crankshaft broke.

Good luck,
Roger

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 06:44:41 1999
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To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>,
        "Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problem from an SL owner in Canada (he really needs help)
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Argh, forgot to say, that mis mechanic already checked the timing belt and
it is ok. It was my first suggestion and even if the belt and timing looks
good a compression check will show any damage to the valve train too.

Later
Roger,
93'3000GT TT


>Roger I know your expertise is the twin turbo but I am a desperate man my
>91gt sl died, well sort of. It started loseing power and then became very
>noisy. I got home but my friend who is a mechanic listened to it and
>suggested towing it to the shop he works at. It will start fine but idles
>very poorly and when you rev it you get a very unhealthy sound from the
>lower valve train. I am from Canada and the mechanic I have has very little
>experience with these cars. He does not want to start replacing valves on a
<snip>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 06:56:55 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>,
        "Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Problem from an SL owner in Canada (he really needs help)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 08:58:22 -0500
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This really sounds like a rod bearing or main bearing has spun.   I'd
suspect lower end noise rather than valve train noise.

The noise he is hearing is probably the piston hitting the head when it
comes up in the cylinder.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 8:45 AM
To: R.G.; Stealth - Team 3S
Subject: Re: Team3S: Problem from an SL owner in Canada (he really needs
help)

Argh, forgot to say, that mis mechanic already checked the timing belt and
it is ok. It was my first suggestion and even if the belt and timing looks
good a compression check will show any damage to the valve train too.

Later
Roger,
93'3000GT TT


>Roger I know your expertise is the twin turbo but I am a desperate man my
>91gt sl died, well sort of. It started loseing power and then became very
>noisy. I got home but my friend who is a mechanic listened to it and
>suggested towing it to the shop he works at. It will start fine but idles
>very poorly and when you rev it you get a very unhealthy sound from the
>lower valve train. I am from Canada and the mechanic I have has very little
>experience with these cars. He does not want to start replacing valves on a
<snip>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 11:30:32 1999
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From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: FAQ Update
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It's alive...that's about all the time I have to say :).

Gavin

New Additions:

Stereo section
Maintenance section
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 14:45:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 01 Oct 1999 14:43:18 -0700
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Hello All,
I am finally getting around to pulling the motor out of my RT/TT.
The book says I need to drop the transaxle. Is this right? Can I get it
out without having to go through all that extra work? I would appreciate
a reply from anyone who has taken their motor out.
Thanks
Todd
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 14:57:19 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>,
        "stealth" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <37F52AF6.6D159B22@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: motor removal
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> I am finally getting around to pulling the motor out of my RT/TT.
> The book says I need to drop the transaxle. Is this right?

You mean to get it out from under the car or what ? Fact is, that the engine
can be overhauled in the bay. When the transaxle is out of the way, the oil
pan can be removed and you'll gain access to just everything from below and
the top. The motor mounts must also be removed as the engine must be angeled
out a little. This way the pistons have been changed on my car and this
reduced work a lot.

Roger,
93'3000GT TT



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 14:59:12 1999
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From: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
To: Todd Schmalzried <Q11981@email.mot.com>,
        stealth
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: motor removal
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Well, I can't speak for the TT cars, but I pulled my SL engine this summer
without removing the transaxle.

However, I wouldn't recommend it.  It was a lot more work than it was worth,
and before it was all over with I still ended up pulling both axels out and
unbolting the transaxle and shoving it as far up against the passenger inner
fender as I could.  Still ended up crunching the main crankshaft pulley
($125 - used! - to replace) and endangering the brake master cylinder.
Getting it back in was almost as hairy.  In the end, this "time-saving
omission" probably cost me a couple of hours of EXTRA time.

If I had it to do over again, I'd just go ahead and get the transaxle out of
the way to start with and save myself a lot of grief - and money.  Wish I'd
read the manual more closely the first time...

Good Luck!

Michael

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd Schmalzried [SMTP:Q11981@email.mot.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 4:43 PM
> To: stealth
> Subject: Team3S: motor removal
>
> Hello All,
> I am finally getting around to pulling the motor out of my RT/TT.
> The book says I need to drop the transaxle. Is this right? Can I get it
> out without having to go through all that extra work? I would appreciate
> a reply from anyone who has taken their motor out.
> Thanks
> Todd
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 15:06:52 1999
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References: <AFCD395A19B7D2118E0900902732D17E560747@cffsr011.cf>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth Convertible !
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 00:05:26 +0200
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I guess the most of you already saw this but maybe you missed the link :

http://members.home.com/jvan/Straman_mag1.htm

I'd immediatly sell my Z28 Convertible for it !!!

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 15:54:18 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: motor removal
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I haven't removed my motor, but I have had my tranny out three times on my 91
Stealth TT.  And it is VERY heavy.  I'd recommend removing it for that reason
alone because the weight of the engine certainly will be better balanced with
the tranny off.  It's worth the extra work to make sure there are no
accidents, like a tranny through your windshield!

Joe 91 TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 16:08:30 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stealth Convertible !
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 18:11:54 -0500
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> I guess the most of you already saw this but maybe you missed
> the link :
> http://members.home.com/jvan/Straman_mag1.htm
> I'd immediately sell my Z28 Convertible for it !!!

Hmm, I think I prefer my Spyder...  If the conversion is really only $14,000 though, that's a pretty good deal (considering originally the Spyder conversion was $20,000).  If you wouldn't miss the hardtop, then this guy's conversion is the way to go.

The painted gauge bezel the guy did is pretty sweet though.  Something I would consider since I need to pull my gauge panel out to polish some scratches out of it anyway.  :-)

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  1 18:42:46 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: motor removal
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 1999 18:42:48 -0700
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If the engine block needs no machining, I really like Roger's suggestion.
Makes a lot of sense.

However, the engine and transaxle assembly came out of my '94 VR4 quite
easily.  I removed the hood for plenty of overhead room.  Having done the
transaxle by itself previously, I feel this method saved quite a bit of
time.  I put it in this way too.  I didn't even remove the plenum.  Worked
great.  Once everything was disconnected that had to be disconnected anyway,
the engine came right out.  Putting it in with the transaxle in place was
tricky because it has to be put in at an angle and dropped onto/into the
respective mounting points in a particular order.

All in all it went very well, and in less time than just putting the
transmission in from beneath the car.  Mating the transaxle onto the engine
and aligning the clutch was trivial with the engine sitting right in front
of you.  Inserting the half shafts is easy and a step that is included no
matter which method one chooses.

You do have to plan ahead and see what is in the way but it saved me a lot
of effort.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> Sent: Friday, October 01, 1999 2:59 PM
> To: Todd Schmalzried; stealth
> Subject: RE: Team3S: motor removal
>
>
> Well, I can't speak for the TT cars, but I pulled my SL engine this summer
> without removing the transaxle.
>
> However, I wouldn't recommend it.  It was a lot more work than it
> was worth,
> and before it was all over with I still ended up pulling both
> axels out and
> unbolting the transaxle and shoving it as far up against the
> passenger inner
> fender as I could.  Still ended up crunching the main crankshaft pulley
> ($125 - used! - to replace) and endangering the brake master cylinder.
> Getting it back in was almost as hairy.  In the end, this "time-saving
> omission" probably cost me a couple of hours of EXTRA time.
>
> If I had it to do over again, I'd just go ahead and get the
> transaxle out of
> the way to start with and save myself a lot of grief - and money.
>  Wish I'd
> read the manual more closely the first time...
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Michael

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  2 02:40:05 1999
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From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need Help with Tire Sizes
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 04:33:31 -0500
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I know OE tires on most cars (VR4s) are 245/45R17 or 245/40R18, depending on
wheel size.  I also know that I used to have a '93 VR4 that had 275/40R17s
on it and they fit fine.  I currently have 245/45R17's on my Spyder.  I'm
looking at some new wheels and will be getting 18's.  I can get 245/40R18's
which will only be 1mm shorter in total height from what I have now or I can
get 275/35R18's which don't really cost much more (for certain brands) and
be 4mm taller than what I have now.  Either way I don't really care because
it's "close enough" to keep my speedometer in the ballpark.

What I'm wondering is, does anyone know if 275/35R18's will rub?  275/40R17s
(which I had on my old '93 VR4) didn't rub and are 1mm taller than my
current 245/45R17s.  Will the extra 3mm kill me?  Did anything change in the
'94+ cars or Spyders that might make the extra 30mm of width too wide?

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  2 07:16:12 1999
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Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:15:03 EDT
Subject: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
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* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
downpipe/collector.

Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.

Stock motor & pistons
Celsius = Fahrenheit
950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
925     =  1700  Getting damn close
900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
875     =  1607  or less No problems...

I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained highway speed.

These are the numbers I've been using. Any more current information available?

Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  2 07:56:21 1999
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Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:55:47 EDT
Subject: Team3S: ETS
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Response from Barry, worth reading.

Based on previous roadracing experience, my experience says these figures
are fairly accurate.

Sustained running (more than several seconds) of an engine above 1650 F will
definitely take a toll on the engine.  Damage will range from accelerated
wear to immediate breakdown depending upon the condition of the engine.
Repeated running above the safe zone will definitely lead to premature
failure at some point in time.

For roadrace work where you need the engine to last 1350 F average is
probably more realistic.

Note that these temperatures assume no post chamber combustion.  It is not
unusual to see piston melting temperatures in the exhaust runners of bone
stock engines under certain circumstances.  Many ECUs will detect knock
under load (say on a long uphill grade in top gear) and retard the timing to
the max.  You may see 1700-1900 F in the exhaust runners when this condition
exists.  Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does mean that the
engine is or has been stressing and not operating at peak efficiency, likely
due to inadequate fuel or cooling for the particular circumstance.


Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  2 08:03:44 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ETS
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 08:03:56 -0700
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Thanks Arty.

Just a clarification:  by "inadequate fuel" I mean grade of fuel (octane
rating) as opposed to amount of fuel, although the latter could cause
similar symptoms.  Insufficient amount fuel is can cause a lean burn
situation,  also causing unduly high temperatures, which is different than
part of the fuel charge burning in the exhaust system due to exaggerated
timing.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> Response from Barry, worth reading.
>


<snipped>

> exists.  Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does
> mean that the
> engine is or has been stressing and not operating at peak
> efficiency, likely
> due to inadequate fuel or cooling for the particular circumstance.
>
>
> Barry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  2 11:01:28 1999
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Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 12:01:41 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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Subject: Team3S: transfer case info and pics
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Update of my Getrag transfer case woes:

well, I think I might have one for the record books..  I'm sure many of you
have seen worse, but keep in mind that I drove my car to the shop with no
idea of how bad it really was..

http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/

(I just made this page, so there's not much there..  click on the Getrag link)

my pics aren't quite as good as Mikaels, but I'll try to take some better
ones next week..

btw, a huge thank you to the people expressing concern for safety regarding
the possibility of a lock-up..  I think a probably only had a couple more
miles left before this was likely..  There was truly no warning other than
the whine..

for what it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
same..  I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the bearings and
seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..

I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
are 3 sections to the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
446.0.0722.91 and 446.0.0710.90

unfortunately for me, this isn't going to be a simple bearing and seal
replacement, but it sure looks like Mikaels instructions would work for
anyone that doesn't have gear, case or spline damage..

that's all for now..

Dave
95 (waiting for an organ donor) VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  2 13:02:55 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: transfer case info and pics
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 13:02:59 -0700
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The 93.5 and on transfer cases are the same.  They are easily identified by
the cast iron case.  Earlier models had an aluminum case.  Also, the spline
counts vary.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----

<snip>

for what it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
same..  I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the bearings and
seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..

I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
are 3 sections to the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
446.0.0722.91 and 446.0.0710.90

<snip>

Dave
95 (waiting for an organ donor) VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 10:56:22 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <Aso8@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 12:59:35 -0500
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I'd have to agree with these numbers.

What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated forged pistons, ceramic
coated combustion chamber, headers and turbos.

What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's down?   We know water injection.
But what about timing and fuel? These should also be considered at the
levels some of us are at.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 9:15 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; stealth@starnet.net
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree

* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
downpipe/collector.

Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.

Stock motor & pistons
Celsius = Fahrenheit
950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
925     =  1700  Getting damn close
900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
875     =  1607  or less No problems...

I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained highway speed.

These are the numbers I've been using. Any more current information
available?

Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 11:30:47 -0700
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This might seem nit picky or perhaps even obvious, but I think it is
important to distinguish between EGT and combustion chamber temperature.
EGT is an indication of combustion chamber temperature.  A "properly"
running engine will have EGTs somewhat lower than actual combustion
temperatures depending upon where it is measured.  An engine with
exaggerated retarded timing will sometimes show higher EGTs than what might
normally be considered safe, yet the combustion temperatures may actually
the same as what may be observed at "normnal" load conditions without the
retarded timing.  This doesn't necessarily mean the pistons are about to
melt although it should serve as a warning that the ECU is attempting to
compensate for less than optimal combustion conditions, usually it is
pulling timing out to the max.  If it can't pull out any more timing but
still might "want" to, then there is a danger of burning the engine down,
not to mention that power output has already dropped way off of what is
possible.

Bottom line, run the correct mixture of fuel for the amount of air (which
relates to boost in the case of a turbocharged engine) and most importantly
the correct grade of fuel, and tune timing for optimal power at those
mixtures.  Big boost numbers sound cool for bench racing purposes but will
kill an engine in short order without adequate combustion conditions (grade
of fuel, amount of fuel, ability to ignite the mixture, timing and ability
to remove heat from the combustion chamber for starters).

I suspect that actual cylinder pressure doesn't become much of an issue
within mechanical limits as long as the fuel is there in the correct ratio.

Correct timing control is something that is sorely lacking for aftermakret
goodies, since the Apex'i ITC is not the safest to use without other
feedback.  I suppose a reprogrammed ECU or a full blown EMS would do the
trick but it'd be nice to have a more affordable alternative.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I'd have to agree with these numbers.
>
> What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated forged pistons, ceramic
> coated combustion chamber, headers and turbos.
>
> What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's down?   We know water injection.
> But what about timing and fuel? These should also be considered at the
> levels some of us are at.
>
>
> Brad
> Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 13:03:51 1999
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From: ebk@advant.com (Katz, Eric)
Subject: Team3S: Re: Team3S Digest V1 #298
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At 10:56 AM 10/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Team3S Digest         Sunday, October 3 1999         Volume 01 : Number 298
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:55:47 EDT
>From: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S: ETS
>
>Response from Barry, worth reading.
>
>Based on previous roadracing experience, my experience says these figures
>are fairly accurate.
>
>Sustained running (more than several seconds) of an engine above 1650 F will
>definitely take a toll on the engine.  Damage will range from accelerated
>wear to immediate breakdown depending upon the condition of the engine.
>Repeated running above the safe zone will definitely lead to premature
>failure at some point in time.
>
>For roadrace work where you need the engine to last 1350 F average is
>probably more realistic.
>
>Note that these temperatures assume no post chamber combustion.  It is not
>unusual to see piston melting temperatures in the exhaust runners of bone
>stock engines under certain circumstances.  Many ECUs will detect knock
>under load (say on a long uphill grade in top gear) and retard the timing to
>the max.  You may see 1700-1900 F in the exhaust runners when this condition
>exists.  Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does mean that the
>engine is or has been stressing and not operating at peak efficiency, likely
>due to inadequate fuel or cooling for the particular circumstance.
>
>
>Barry
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 08:03:56 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: ETS
>
>Thanks Arty.
>
>Just a clarification:  by "inadequate fuel" I mean grade of fuel (octane
>rating) as opposed to amount of fuel, although the latter could cause
>similar symptoms.  Insufficient amount fuel is can cause a lean burn
>situation,  also causing unduly high temperatures, which is different than
>part of the fuel charge burning in the exhaust system due to exaggerated
>timing.
>
>
>Barry
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Response from Barry, worth reading.
>>
>
>
><snipped>
>
>> exists.  Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does
>> mean that the
>> engine is or has been stressing and not operating at peak
>> efficiency, likely
>> due to inadequate fuel or cooling for the particular circumstance.
>>
>>
>> Barry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 12:01:41 -0600
>From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>Subject: Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>Update of my Getrag transfer case woes:
>
>well, I think I might have one for the record books..  I'm sure many of you
>have seen worse, but keep in mind that I drove my car to the shop with no
>idea of how bad it really was..
>
>http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/
>
>(I just made this page, so there's not much there..  click on the Getrag
link)
>
>my pics aren't quite as good as Mikaels, but I'll try to take some better
>ones next week..
>
>btw, a huge thank you to the people expressing concern for safety regarding
>the possibility of a lock-up..  I think a probably only had a couple more
>miles left before this was likely..  There was truly no warning other than
>the whine..
>
>for what it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
>same..  I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91 and 446.0.0710.90
>
>unfortunately for me, this isn't going to be a simple bearing and seal
>replacement, but it sure looks like Mikaels instructions would work for
>anyone that doesn't have gear, case or spline damage..
>
>that's all for now..
>
>Dave
>95 (waiting for an organ donor) VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 13:02:59 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>The 93.5 and on transfer cases are the same.  They are easily identified by
>the cast iron case.  Earlier models had an aluminum case.  Also, the spline
>counts vary.
>
>
>Barry
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>
><snip>
>
>for what it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
>same..  I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91 and 446.0.0710.90
>
><snip>
>
>Dave
>95 (waiting for an organ donor) VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 12:59:35 -0500
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
>
>I'd have to agree with these numbers.
>
>What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated forged pistons, ceramic
>coated combustion chamber, headers and turbos.
>
>What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's down?   We know water injection.
>But what about timing and fuel? These should also be considered at the
>levels some of us are at.
>
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
>Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 9:15 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; stealth@starnet.net
>Cc: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
>
>* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
>Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
>downpipe/collector.
>
>Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
>Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
>Stock motor & pistons
>Celsius = Fahrenheit
> 950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
> 925     =  1700  Getting damn close
> 900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
> 875     =  1607  or less No problems...
>
>I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained highway speed.
>
>These are the numbers I've been using. Any more current information
>available?
>
>Thanks
>Arty 91 VR-4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of Team3S Digest V1 #298
>****************************
>
>For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 14:16:07 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 17:14:26 -0400
From: dgkessler@netexp.com (Kessler, D.)
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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Best brake fluid
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I plan on changing my brake fluid in my 1993 R/T TT and wondered what
would be the best to use.  I don't race, just street driving and fast
corners.

Don
3si # 152

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 14:46:47 1999
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From: ebk@advant.com (Katz, Eric)
Subject: Team3S: Re: Team3S Digest V1 #298
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At 10:56 AM 10/3/99 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Team3S Digest         Sunday, October 3 1999         Volume 01 : Number 298
>
>
>
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 10:55:47 EDT
>From: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S: ETS
>
>Response from Barry, worth reading.
>
>Based on previous roadracing experience, my experience says these figures
>are fairly accurate.
>
>Sustained running (more than several seconds) of an engine above 1650 F will
>definitely take a toll on the engine.  Damage will range from accelerated
>wear to immediate breakdown depending upon the condition of the engine.
>Repeated running above the safe zone will definitely lead to premature
>failure at some point in time.
>
>For roadrace work where you need the engine to last 1350 F average is
>probably more realistic.
>
>Note that these temperatures assume no post chamber combustion.  It is not
>unusual to see piston melting temperatures in the exhaust runners of bone
>stock engines under certain circumstances.  Many ECUs will detect knock
>under load (say on a long uphill grade in top gear) and retard the timing to
>the max.  You may see 1700-1900 F in the exhaust runners when this condition
>exists.  Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does mean that the
>engine is or has been stressing and not operating at peak efficiency, likely
>due to inadequate fuel or cooling for the particular circumstance.
>
>
>Barry
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 08:03:56 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: ETS
>
>Thanks Arty.
>
>Just a clarification:  by "inadequate fuel" I mean grade of fuel (octane
>rating) as opposed to amount of fuel, although the latter could cause
>similar symptoms.  Insufficient amount fuel is can cause a lean burn
>situation,  also causing unduly high temperatures, which is different than
>part of the fuel charge burning in the exhaust system due to exaggerated
>timing.
>
>
>Barry
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> Response from Barry, worth reading.
>>
>
>
><snipped>
>
>> exists.  Although this MAY not mean imminent meltdown it does
>> mean that the
>> engine is or has been stressing and not operating at peak
>> efficiency, likely
>> due to inadequate fuel or cooling for the particular circumstance.
>>
>>
>> Barry
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 02 Oct 1999 12:01:41 -0600
>From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>Subject: Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>Update of my Getrag transfer case woes:
>
>well, I think I might have one for the record books..  I'm sure many of you
>have seen worse, but keep in mind that I drove my car to the shop with no
>idea of how bad it really was..
>
>http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/
>
>(I just made this page, so there's not much there..  click on the Getrag
link)
>
>my pics aren't quite as good as Mikaels, but I'll try to take some better
>ones next week..
>
>btw, a huge thank you to the people expressing concern for safety regarding
>the possibility of a lock-up..  I think a probably only had a couple more
>miles left before this was likely..  There was truly no warning other than
>the whine..
>
>for what it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
>same..  I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91 and 446.0.0710.90
>
>unfortunately for me, this isn't going to be a simple bearing and seal
>replacement, but it sure looks like Mikaels instructions would work for
>anyone that doesn't have gear, case or spline damage..
>
>that's all for now..
>
>Dave
>95 (waiting for an organ donor) VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sat, 2 Oct 1999 13:02:59 -0700
>From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: transfer case info and pics
>
>The 93.5 and on transfer cases are the same.  They are easily identified by
>the cast iron case.  Earlier models had an aluminum case.  Also, the spline
>counts vary.
>
>
>Barry
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>
><snip>
>
>for what it's worth, it seems like the 2nd gen transfer case may be the
>same..  I didn't take the time to get the numbers from the bearings and
>seals, but I wrote down the case part numbers if anyone wants to compare..
>
>I couldn't find a number on the end that bolts to the transmission (there
>are 3 sections to the case), but here are the middle and other end numbers:
>446.0.0722.91 and 446.0.0710.90
>
><snip>
>
>Dave
>95 (waiting for an organ donor) VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 3 Oct 1999 12:59:35 -0500
>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
>
>I'd have to agree with these numbers.
>
>What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated forged pistons, ceramic
>coated combustion chamber, headers and turbos.
>
>What about any thoughts to keep the EGT's down?   We know water injection.
>But what about timing and fuel? These should also be considered at the
>levels some of us are at.
>
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
>Sent: Saturday, October 02, 1999 9:15 AM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; stealth@starnet.net
>Cc: Aso8@aol.com
>Subject: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
>
>* EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
>Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
>downpipe/collector.
>
>Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
>Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
>Stock motor & pistons
>Celsius = Fahrenheit
> 950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
> 925     =  1700  Getting damn close
> 900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
> 875     =  1607  or less No problems...
>
>I'd consider anything over 875c degrees deadly for sustained highway speed.
>
>These are the numbers I've been using. Any more current information
>available?
>
>Thanks
>Arty 91 VR-4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of Team3S Digest V1 #298
>****************************
>
>For unsubscribe info and FAQ, see our web page at
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 17:32:58 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Kessler, D." <dgkessler@netexp.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <37F7C732.C0619672@netexp.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Best brake fluid
Date: Sat, 3 Oct 1998 19:30:12 -0500
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So what you're really asking for is opinions...

I have had good luck with ATR Super Blue, $9.95 from OG racing.  So far only
street, but I will do my first road course next weekend so I'll find out how
good it really is.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT
60-0 really fast




> I plan on changing my brake fluid in my 1993 R/T TT and wondered what
> would be the best to use.  I don't race, just street driving and fast
> corners.
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 17:33:58 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT maximum limits - Agree/disagree
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Unfortunately, my setup doesn't feature an EGT yet so my assumptions and
findings are not based on experience.

This weekend I made my final tune ins for another air/fuel control (more
information soon). I made a lot runs with different fuel settings (all at
1.00 - 1.10kg/cm2) and recorded all of them. First, my aim was to run a rich
condition under high boost, say around 0.88V of the O2 sensors. The result
at this voltage was a lot of knock starting at 4800 what resulted in the
timing retarded. But knock went not away and the timing got retarded even
more until knock didn't rose anymore. The logs shows that the timing is
pretty well advanced and just before the knock it was at 40°. The ECU took
it then back to 36° but knock increased a little bit more. Not enough as the
timing came back another degree.

At this point the O2 sensor voltage got lowered, indicating a leaner (only a
little) situation during the retarded timing. I'm pretty sure, and EGT meter
had showed a higher temp at this point too.

On turbo engines running at higher boost than the engine was designed for
the pressure infront of the turbo may increase to a high than good reading.
This enhanced backpressure also causes the EGT to rise. Therefore the
combustion temperature may be lower than the temps measured infront the
turbo. But this indication shows a danger because this high gases may be
pushed back into the combustion chamber causing a short but heavy lean
condition. I'm pretty sure, no EGT nor O2 sensor may be able to read this
condition :-( But the ECU does if this situation causes knock ... well it
normally would ... or not ?? Our ECU has the ability to "learn" what
cylinder causes knock. Also it is able to disable the injector and ignition
of this specific cylinder and this is called ... fuel cut ! Therefore, if FC
is initiated onyl for 1 cyl we'd loose 1/6 of the power for a short time but
if this appears on 4 cyls we may really speak of theeth-danger fuel cut.

> Bottom line, run the correct mixture of fuel for the amount of air (which
> relates to boost in the case of a turbocharged engine) and most
importantly
> the correct grade of fuel, and tune timing for optimal power at those
> mixtures.

Barry is very right here and my logs really show that running 93 octane at 1
bar of boost is the point where the timing already got retarded. Only a
little, but knock is enough to steal some of the timing away.

> Big boost numbers sound cool for bench racing purposes but will
> kill an engine in short order without adequate combustion conditions
(grade
> of fuel, amount of fuel, ability to ignite the mixture, timing and ability
> to remove heat from the combustion chamber for starters).

I totally agree here too. You remember the plug gap stuff ? Why do we have
to reduce the gap of the plugs when running higher boost ? Is this because
the spark cannot travel well through the mixture (that is still the at right
rich value) ? I've noticed this "hesitation" again at around 6000 on the
dyno and this caused a small valley in the power curve. The sound was
noticeable but ... no knock measured by the ECU !!! Therefore, the problem
doesn't come from detonation as this would cause knock. Therefore, the only
thing I can think of is that the fuel in the chamber was not burnt in this
cycle. As a result of this the fuel went out to the exhaust manifold and due
to the high pressure and temperatures, got ignited ... causing the sound.
But I doubt, as this "backfiring" would sound more troublelike and not only
like a hesitation. I therefore think that fuel was sent out through the
whole exhaust then. The fuel smelling drops on the dyno ground may prove
this.
Also, as Mike from Germany came down for the dyno day with his car and he
and Jim had some fast rides on the Autobahn, he noticed pretty high EGTs.
After regapping the plugs from one to the other run he then saw lower
reading on the way  back home.

> I suspect that actual cylinder pressure doesn't become much of an issue
> within mechanical limits as long as the fuel is there in the correct
ratio.

We all know that richen the mixture may steal some power but lowers knock.
If running 93 RON (98 ROZ) at 1 bar and a lower plug gap I'm very positive
that NOT the whole fuel got burnt ! Therefore the rest is used to cool the
chamber, to lower the temperature. I'd then would say that the EGTs are also
lower due to this. Lowering the chambers temperature with a WIS is a better
idea as the mixture can be leaner. I activated thw WI and indeed got the
same low knock amount even with leaner readings. And this is why every WI
user should tune in the system either with a real time knock sensor or a
good EGT meter, maybe with peak hold.

> Correct timing control is something that is sorely lacking for aftermakret
> goodies, since the Apex'i ITC is not the safest to use without other
> feedback.  I suppose a reprogrammed ECU or a full blown EMS would do the
> trick but it'd be nice to have a more affordable alternative.

I must say that our ECU is doing a good job here. IMHO, a timing advance of
36 - 40° between 5000 and 7000 rpm is pretty good and the ECU acts quickly
if there is a possible problem. A Haltech system is a good solution although
there is definitively a lot of work to do to get it running properly. The
ITC is like the AFC not a real good solution as it is ONLY rpm based. My
logs show that there is different load in the gears and knock for an example
may appear not in second but in third and on another run in first but not
second. Our ECU is taken care of this pretty good.

> > What if you throw in better valves, ceramic coated forged pistons,
ceramic
> > coated combustion chamber, headers and turbos.

This is like you double the steel plates on a tank to avoid bigger bullets.
This will help you to survive but the enemy is still out there :-) The
forged pistons are stronger and withstand more detonation until they brake.
Total Seal rings withstand higher temperature and let you run higher boost
with less danger for them to brake. But everything leads again to a good
mixture and fuel quality (i.e. octane rating). If I'd run these internals
I'd not be concerned about running higher boost as the more knock will not
cause more problems with the same bosot. But detonation is already there and
the timing gets retarded due to this. Finally fuel cut is initiated to
prevent danage although these internals may withstand it. I know of
Camaro/Firebird people who lowered the sensitivity of the knock sensor with
a simple resitor circuit (voltage devider). They did this due to different
roller rockers, lifters, hotter cam and stonger springs that caused more
noise, but is this really the way to go ?

Sorry, this was more EGT-side stuff and I hope to be able to see my EGTs too
soon to able to give mroe data on what belongs to what.

Roger
93'3000GT TT



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct  3 20:51:35 1999
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Date: Sun, 03 Oct 1999 21:00:37 -0700
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Subject: Team3S: clutch engagement & disengagement
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Hello,

I've been noticing lately that I get the "thud" noise from the rear of
the car on clutch engagement and expecially disengagement.  Seems to
happen in a lot of gears, but its definitely more pronounced in lower
gears.  Especially releasing the clutch (pedal in) in 1st.

I remember a discussion a while back on this type of thing, and the
possible causes were clutch pedal height (already checked and adjusted),
the driveshaft carrier or similar bearings, and the whole driveshaft
itself.  Of course, it could just be my relatively new clutch (3000
miles) being kind of stiff on engagement & disengagement.   Hopefully
not the getrash acting up!


Thanks,

Dave Margrave
'91 R/T TT



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 00:35:52 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 01:36:03 -0600
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Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch engagement & disengagement
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David Margrave wrote:
>
> Hello,
>
> I've been noticing lately that I get the "thud" noise from the rear of
> the car on clutch engagement and expecially disengagement.  Seems to
> happen in a lot of gears, but its definitely more pronounced in lower
> gears.  Especially releasing the clutch (pedal in) in 1st.
>
> I remember a discussion a while back on this type of thing, and the
> possible causes were clutch pedal height (already checked and adjusted),
> the driveshaft carrier or similar bearings, and the whole driveshaft
> itself.  Of course, it could just be my relatively new clutch (3000
> miles) being kind of stiff on engagement & disengagement.   Hopefully
> not the getrash acting up!
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave Margrave
> '91 R/T TT

I highly doubt this is related, but given my recent experience with my VR4
transfer case, I decided to change the fluid in my VW GTI transaxle as well
even though it wasn't exhibiting any "symptoms"..  to my surprise, it was
about a quart low (2 quart capacity) but didn't notice anything unusal about
the color or other characteristics of the fluid..  I guess I got lucky with
this one..

So here I am thinking I'm going to be doing a good thing by changing fluid,
not to mention having the appropriate amount in there..  well, everything
is nice and smooth, except A) now I get the "thud" when pressing in the
clutch, and B) my second gear syncro is being much more tempermental now..
the other variable is that I changed to a thicker viscosity (which of course
there is more of now) right when it got cold out..  90W and ~50F..  so maybe
it's just me..  I suppose it could have been actiing the same way last
winter as well and I didn't notice..

food for thought anyway..   

as I said, I doubt it's related..  hope it wasn't a complete waste of
bandwidth..

Dave
95 (currently 2WD) VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 07:57:31 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: clutch engagement & disengagement
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What did you change your fluid to?  OEM, Redline, other?

On 4 Oct 99, at 1:36, Dave wrote:
[snip]
>
> I highly doubt this is related, but given my recent experience with my VR4
> transfer case, I decided to change the fluid in my VW GTI transaxle as well
[snip]
> So here I am thinking I'm going to be doing a good thing by changing fluid,
> not to mention having the appropriate amount in there..  well, everything
> is nice and smooth, except A) now I get the "thud" when pressing in the
> clutch, and B) my second gear syncro is being much more tempermental now..
> the other variable is that I changed to a thicker viscosity (which of course
[snip]
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 09:34:37 1999
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I'm pretty happy with Valvoline's new synthetic Dot 4 fluid.  A large (quart??)
bottle is about $4-$5 and you can get it at any chain auto store.  It has a
boiling point in the low to mid 500 degrees F. which is close to the expensive
race fluids folks have mentioned.

I ran this at a road course last March with no ill effects.  I obviously was
braking hard since I went through a fairly new set of Stillen Metal Matrix pads
in 1/2 a day and probably less than 50 track miles.

> > I plan on changing my brake fluid in my 1993 R/T TT and wondered what
> > would be the best to use.  I don't race, just street driving and fast
> > corners.

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 09:48:29 1999
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Cc: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>, "Rich" <rleroy@pacifier.com>,
        "Mikael" <vr4@bahnhof.se>, "Jim" <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
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Subject: Team3S: Admin Notice:  Team3S List Experiencing delays...
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 09:46:27 -0700
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To All,

Our ISP's server is having some database problems (which Sirius
assures me will be corrected momentarily), so some posts to the list
are being delayed, and in one case, 'bounced'.  Please post
normally, and let me know (privately) if there are any problems with
your message appearing on the list.  (Don't forget, NO test emails,
just legitimate posts).  Sorry for the inconvenience, and thanks for
your patience...

Regards,

Bob Forrest
Admin, Team3S


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 10:10:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 12:12:18 +0000
From: Francis Morice <fas3@earthlink.net>
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I have a question regarding my check engine light coming on.  I own a 96
RT/TT.  I've had the pre-cats gutted about 2 months ago and I just
recently put in a test pipe.  Other mods so far are the HKS super mega
flow filter, Magnacore wires, RPS TCC, and a bleeder valve set at
13.5-14psi.  The check engine light came on Saturday and I reset the ECU
that day and it has stayed off so far.  My question is, is this going to
be recurring thing with the check engine light?  Is there something I
can do to avoid this happening, besides putting the cat back on?

Thanks,

Francis
96RT/TT
13.13@104.87

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 10:26:36 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 12:27:05 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
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I have these things called O2 sensor simulators for my car. They're little boxes that
kick out the right voltage for the post-cat O2 sensors. They trick the computer into
thinking the pre-cats are there and still working  properly. I haven't installed them
yet so I'm not sure if they'll work. I know they work with 96+ Vettes/F-Bodies. I have
heard of alot of people with OBDII and gutted pre-cats who never have any problems
though.
Also what color is your 96? Does it have 18"s? When wasit built (It's on the door jamb
sticker)?

Trevor
96 Firestorm Red R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech (HKS EVC IV@1.00 Bar, Plugs@.034",
Borla, K&N FIPK)
92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60 in 5.34 Gtech

Francis Morice wrote:

> I have a question regarding my check engine light coming on.  I own a 96
> RT/TT.  I've had the pre-cats gutted about 2 months ago and I just
> recently put in a test pipe.  Other mods so far are the HKS super mega
> flow filter, Magnacore wires, RPS TCC, and a bleeder valve set at
> 13.5-14psi.  The check engine light came on Saturday and I reset the ECU
> that day and it has stayed off so far.  My question is, is this going to
> be recurring thing with the check engine light?  Is there something I
> can do to avoid this happening, besides putting the cat back on?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Francis
> 96RT/TT
> 13.13@104.87
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 11:47:31 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 12:47:27 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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To: Dennis Moore <stealth@quixnet.net>
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: tranny fluid (was: clutch engagement & disengagement)
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Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> What did you change your fluid to?  OEM, Redline, other?
>
> On 4 Oct 99, at 1:36, Dave wrote:
> [snip]
> >
> > I highly doubt this is related, but given my recent experience with my VR4
> > transfer case, I decided to change the fluid in my VW GTI transaxle as well
> [snip]
> > So here I am thinking I'm going to be doing a good thing by changing fluid,
> > not to mention having the appropriate amount in there..  well, everything
> > is nice and smooth, except A) now I get the "thud" when pressing in the
> > clutch, and B) my second gear syncro is being much more tempermental now..
> > the other variable is that I changed to a thicker viscosity (which of course
> [snip]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

Valvoline dino..  mostly because that transaxle doesn't get too much abuse
and I didn't think Redline or other "exotic" $$$ fluids would make any
noticeable difference..  on the other hand..  sigh..  I may try an 80W in it
next weekend.. 

Since I don't know where to get Redline locally (Boulder/Denver area), what
do you all think of the Mobil 1 gear oil?  I swear I remember someone
commenting about it a few months ago, but my searches in the archives haven't
found anything..

Dave
95 Black (currently 2WD) VR4
87 Mica Red GTI (always been 2WD) G60
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 13:45:58 1999
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From: "Fein, Edward" <efein@microstrategy.com>
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Subject: Team3S: T-Belt Warning
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 16:45:19 -0400
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A quick notification and word of warning for folks out there:

On Friday night my timing belt tensioner failed on my '94 VR-4. The belt had
been changed less than 10,000 miles ago by the now-defunct Nexus
Motorsports. The failure was caused by improper installation of the
tensioner.

Given the bad installation on my car, I was extremely lucky: First, on
Friday, my completely slack timing belt made enough of a racket slapping
against the plastic belt covers that we were able to find and diagnose the
problem, and (thanks to Lorne Silkes) I got my car flatbedded home before it
skipped any teeth and wrecked my engine. Second, thanks to TurboHarry, I
found a cartified master mechanic willing to come by my house on Saturday
and replace the tensioner and water pump (which had been damaged in the
process). This is how we discovered that my tensioner pulley had been
under-torqued and the alignment cam misaligned by Nexus.

I know Nexus changed a number of timing belts in the last year. Since their
customer service was excellent but their mechanical experience relatively
light, I believe the improper installation was likely the result of an
honest mistake rather than carelessness on their part. Unfortunately, this
means the mistake may have been repeated on the other cars whose timing
belts were changed there. And as they are now out of business, they will not
be able to honor any warranty on their timing belt installations.

Hence, if you had your timing belt changed by Nexus Motorsports, it may be
worth your while to have the car inspected for correct tensioner
installation, as tensioner failure can easily lead to $4000 repair jobs.


On the good news side, the mechanic who fixed my car, Glynn Meade,
demonstrated both excellent mechanical experience with our cars *and*
excellent customer service / care for the job - a combination I have found
to be extremely rare. He is located in Rhode Island, phone number
(401)-738-9947. He not only made a house call for me on Saturday north of
Boston, but his charge for both parts and labor was extremely reasonable.

   -Ed



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 18:25:51 1999
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Date: Mon, 04 Oct 1999 20:26:24 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
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To: stealth@starnet.net, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, syty@syty.org
Subject: Team3S: HKS's Tech Number and question on EVC IV..
References: <A1F8AFB0F9ECD211BDCD0090274E7093014227B6@was-exch-hq3.strategy.com> <37F9194C.43F4AC90@mhtc.net> <37F93920.4433C725@home.com>
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Anyone know if there's a way to tell for sure if an EVC IV is in "Auto Adjust"
mode. Didn't think anyone would! Does anyone have HKS's Tech Number or e-mail
address. They have NO contact info on their web site.

Trevor

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct  4 20:02:41 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 1999 20:58:48 -0600
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Evening all,
    Just received my Hallman bleeder valve from Burschur racing.  I'd =
like to install it this weekend but have one question.  The setup is =
simple enough, but calls for the valve to essentially replace the stock =
solenoid.  The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold AND one vac =
line out of the Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.  Should I cap the =
Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap the line from the manifold?  =
After that, I'll just tee the actuator lines on the bled side.  Any =
opinion is greatly appreciated.

Cory
96 R/T TT

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">Evening all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Just received my Hallman bleeder valve from =
Burschur=20
racing.&nbsp; I'd like to install it this weekend but have one =
question.&nbsp;=20
The setup is simple enough, but calls for the valve to essentially =
replace the=20
stock solenoid.&nbsp; The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold =
AND one=20
vac line out of the Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.&nbsp; Should I =
cap the=20
Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap the line from the =
manifold?&nbsp;=20
After that, I'll just tee the actuator lines on the bled side.&nbsp; Any =
opinion=20
is greatly appreciated.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Cory</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">96 R/T TT</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 01:40:38 1999
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Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 10:41:01 +0200
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To: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod
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> but calls for the valve to essentially replace the stock solenoid.

I do not recommend this as you'll see less performance then.

> The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold AND one vac line out of the
> Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.

Usually, a bleeder valve simply bleeds pressure to the air. The Hallman design
may need another feeder line to close the valve when boost rises. What manual
are you refering to and do oyu say that BOTH lines lead to the H connector ?

> Should I cap the Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap the line from the
> manifold?  After that, I'll just tee the actuator lines on the bled side.

And why should any of them be capped ? Makes no sense to me :)

Also don't forget a good boost gauge ! The Hallman bleeder is not that fast and
may cause overboost that cannot be seen by the stock gauge. This is maybe why
they say to remove the stock boost solenoid ...

Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 02:05:26 1999
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To: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Stock boost gauge warning (fuel cut)
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For the most cracks this is an old know issue but for some newbies a very
important one :

The stock boost gauge does NOT measure any pressure in the manifold ! The more
it is a voltage sent my the ECU that is calculated upon air flow and the
injector opening time. With the stock system, the thing is accurate and works
well even with some mods. But it is slow, damn slow and doesnt show any peak
values that may occur in an overboost situation.

Now, if someone increases boost over 1 bar we know he's running in danger of
fuel cut. This is initiated either by knock or a too high calculated value out
of the variables. Here, the altitude may play a rule as well as the dense of the
air. This is also the cause why some see a higher boost on the meter as it
really is.

The problem increases even more with a fuel controller as this device alters the
air flow frequency sent to the ECU and therefore the ting calculates a wrong
boost ! With my current system I see a difference if 3 psi ! Now, if one thinks
that a fuel controller is helping to get rid of the fuel cut is WRONG ! If you
still have the stock fuel system and just want to richen the top end to be able
to run more boost, will run into fuel cut EARLIER ! This, because the calculated
value is too high and the ECU thinks that there is something really wrong.

Therefore, the only good way when increasing boost is to install an aftermarket
boost meter. Also, the only way to get rid of the fuel cut is to install larger
injectors together with a fuel controller.

Happy boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 07:16:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:15:42 EDT
Subject: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
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Hi all,
    Well, things were going great with all my upgrades BUT now something has
happened with my boost situation.  I was on my way to the rescheduled NOPI
drag wars this past Saturday October 2nd.  On my way, a Corvette ZR-1 was
tailing me real Closely; so I thought that I should have some fun before I
got to the track (and gave me a chance to also fine tune my boost controller,
fuel controller & monitor my EGT's).  And I figured to rest the car when I
finally arrived at the track to race.
    I floored the gas pedal and started pulling on the ZR-1 w/ WOT (Wide Open
Throttle); then I would let off on the gas and let him catch up; we smiled at
each other and we confirmed our appreciation of each other's Super cars.  So
we continued this high speed freeway game for about 10 minutes which allowed
me to monitor all my readings (boost, EGT, Super AFC, etc.); All of a Sudden
after WOT and letting off on the gas pedal and getting back to flooring it
again, I HAD NO BOOST!!!!!  ARGHHHHHHHHHHHh.......I don't believe this!!!!   
So I figured I blew a hose somewhere (even though I did NOT hear anything
pop) & pulled over on the shoulder of the freeway to check everything out!  
But I never heard a "popping" sound from a possible blown y-pipe???  I found
nothing wrong!!   All hoses/clamps were tight!  Checked the bottom of the car
by the front intercoolers as well.
    I continued to the track (since I was only 15 minutes away) and the car
ran smoothly!!!!  Like driving a NON-Turbo car.   I arrived at the track and
with the assistance of Jack Tertadian (Thanks again, Jack!!)  we checked
everything out and could not find anything wrong either; we must have spent
30-45 minutes trying to find a loose hose.  So I am really depressed at this
point since I was unable to race and was looking forward to some mid 12 sec.
(or faster) runs.   I went back home and double checked everything again.
    My buddy at the Mitsubishi dealership tried to help me out yesterday; We
checked everything out again;    We checked all of the following on my car:
        - Apex'i Sequential Blow off Valve to see if it was stuck open (it
was fine)
    - All hoses for cracks or if they are loose (they are fine - besides the
car would       run rough if one of the hoses were cracked or loose)
    -Checked both turbos' wastegate actuators to see if they were stuck open
(they       were fine)
    -Checked spark plug's condition (nothing wrong)
    -The front turbo is fine; we were able to freely spin the turbine fins
and there was       no play within the bearings.  (So IF the rear turbo is
problematic; I should           be able to get some minimal boost with the
healthy front turbo but that's not      the case - I actually have NO
BOOST!!!!)
    -If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
some                minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.
    -I definitely have vacuum; but no boost; Cannot get past 0 psi.
My buddy (mechanic at Mitsubishi) promised to read up on the manual to figure
out what else may be wrong that we may have missed to check.

We also observed another problem that we believe is NOT related; I have smoke
coming out of my exhaust pipes (definitely oil burning although the color is
very light but definitely NOT antifreeze); smokes only at low RPM's and only
after the car gets hot; most evident when car comes to a stop or standing
still/ bumper to bumper traffic jams......periodic smoke....I was thinking
maybe my Super AFC is set too rich which may be causing all this smoke at
lower RPM's?????  NO smoke at higher RPM's observed.
 
Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4  (too many mods to list)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 07:29:31 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Stock boost on 97 VR4
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Can someone let me know what the stock boost is on these babies? Also when
can I find the specs for the car - are they in the owner's manual? Looking
for stock tire size, etc.

mb



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 07:46:24 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Transfer case/Safety recalls for 97 VR4/Fubar!?
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Are there any safety recalls for the 97 VR4? I looked at the recalls page,
and didn't find anything, but all this talk has got me worried. I'm going
to do my hi-speed run soon!

mb

PS What does Fubar mean?



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 07:54:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:54:21 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
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In a message dated 10/5/99 9:49:01 AM Central Daylight Time,
MLandis@casham.com writes:

<< While no clues about your boost problem, my '92 SL (na) was exhibiting
identical "smoke" behaviour prior to the unscheduled (water pump seized,
etc., etc., etc.) overhaul I recently performed.  Would smoke like crazy
after sitting at a long light, train crossing, slow fast-food drive-thru,
etc., but no smoke at driving speed.  I'm pretty sure that my problem was
caused by worn valve seals.  Shortly before a couple of oil changes, I'd add
a quart of ATF, and the smoking would go away. (The dipstick was reading 1
qt low - this was my first clue.)  ATF causes the rubber seals to swell
some, thereby ending the blowby and smoking.  You don't want to run ATF for
extended periods, but for a one or two day test under mild driving
conditions (you do remember those, don't you? ;-)  ) it would probably be
OK.  Ask your mechanic buddy for further counsel on this.  How many miles on
the car?  Any idea if running higher boost accelerates valve seal wear?
Replacing the valve seals should not be a real big deal if this is your
problem - and certainly easier than rings and valves...

Anyway, wish you luck with all that ails you.

Michael >>

Thanks, Michael......My buddy and I already thought about that it may be the
valve stem seals; and now you have confirmed it for me.....I will try your
suggestions.....truly appreciate your advice.  Thanks....Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 07:59:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke
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Hi

Sometimes when  I overboosted (before water injection) my Celica GT-4 the
ECU jumped into some safety program and the car didn't produce any boost at
all. The interesting thing is that the ECU controlled both boost and fuel so
the car ran super rich (smoked) and produced 0 psi boost. The solution was
to disconnect the battery and just let it sit for 10 minutes, after that
everything was back to normal.

Good luck

Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:12:07 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
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Hi Al,

)-:)   You probably lost the little turbine wheel on the hot side.
That's what happened to my rear turbo at Raod Atlanta last Fall.  The
wheel on the cool side would turn freely, but there was no wheel on the
hot side.  The front turbo was fine.  I'll send you a .jpg if I can find
it.  If you install replacement turbos yourself, let me know as I'm a
permanent member of the DIRTY FINGERNAILS CLUB.

You can plug one of the hoses going into the 'Y" pipe and see if you get
some boost and then plug the other and tru again.   That will tell you
which turbo is blown.

Be of good cheer
John

TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:
[snip]
> after WOT and letting off on the gas pedal and getting back to flooring it
> again, I HAD NO BOOST!!!!!  ARGHHHHHHHHHHHh.......I don't believe this!!!!
>     -The front turbo is fine; we were able to freely spin the turbine fins
> and there was       no play within the bearings.  (So IF the rear turbo is
> problematic; I should           be able to get some minimal boost with the
> healthy front turbo but that's not      the case - I actually have NO
> BOOST!!!!)
>
> Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!
>
> Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4  (too many mods to list)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:13:24 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 11:12:18 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock boost on 97 VR4
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In a message dated 10/5/99 9:31:18 AM Central Daylight Time,
mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu writes:

<< Can someone let me know what the stock boost is on these babies? Also when
can I find the specs for the car - are they in the owner's manual? Looking
for stock tire size, etc.

mb
  >>

I believe stock psi boost level for '97 is 12psi.  specs of the car should be
in owner's manual and some maybe inside your door jam area.....good luck......

Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:14:52 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
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Stupid question : no boost, even nothing noticeable, or just not seen on the
meter ?

>     -If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
> some                minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.

Why not disconnecting the boost controller hose that goes to the wastegates ?
Then do an easy "max boost" run but not WOT. Just check if boost rises very high
and do not overboost it it works.

>     -I definitely have vacuum; but no boost; Cannot get past 0 psi.

How much vacuum at idle ?

> still/ bumper to bumper traffic jams......periodic smoke....I was thinking
> maybe my Super AFC is set too rich which may be causing all this smoke at
> lower RPM's?????  NO smoke at higher RPM's observed.

Yes, too rich ! What is your O2 sensor reading at WOT or fast accellerating ?

> Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!

- check O2 sensors
- check for losen throttle cable
- check TPS voltage
- IDC% ?
- way too rich ???

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:26:39 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
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In a message dated 10/5/99 10:16:27 AM Central Daylight Time,
robby@swissonline.ch writes:

<< Stupid question : no boost, even nothing noticeable, or just not seen on
the
meter ?

>     -If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
> some                minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.

Why not disconnecting the boost controller hose that goes to the wastegates ?
Then do an easy "max boost" run but not WOT. Just check if boost rises very
high
and do not overboost it it works.

>     -I definitely have vacuum; but no boost; Cannot get past 0 psi.

How much vacuum at idle ?

> still/ bumper to bumper traffic jams......periodic smoke....I was thinking
> maybe my Super AFC is set too rich which may be causing all this smoke at
> lower RPM's?????  NO smoke at higher RPM's observed.

Yes, too rich ! What is your O2 sensor reading at WOT or fast accellerating ?

> Any advice/recommendations would be appreciated; Thank you!

- check O2 sensors
- check for losen throttle cable
- check TPS voltage
- IDC% ?
- way too rich ???

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT >>


Hello Roger.....not at all a stupid question;  I just simply do not get
anything above 0 psi on my boost gauge; but I can hear the turbos trying to
spool up.....

Jack Tertadian and I already tried disconnecting the hose on the boost
controller for the wastegates; went for a test run to see if there was any
boost build up -- NOTHING....still NO BOOST......

Vacuum at idle is about -20 psi (somewhere around there); then when given a
little throttle....will climb to 0 psi......but nothing farther.

I will look into my O2 sensor readings to check for richness.....haven't had
a chance yet.....

Thank you.......
Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:27:18 1999
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> Sometimes when  I overboosted (before water injection) my Celica GT-4 the
> ECU jumped into some safety program and the car didn't produce any boost at
> all.

Mikael is absolutely right and our cars do absolutely the same. Although, first
you should run into fuel cut but with we do not know the mods you have ;-)

> The interesting thing is that the ECU controlled both boost and fuel so
> the car ran super rich (smoked) and produced 0 psi boost. The solution was
> to disconnect the battery and just let it sit for 10 minutes

Also our ECU sets the mixture to damn rich when this situation occurs. Our ECU
then goes out of the emergency program if the behaviour is back to normal over a
specific time. Also, the check engine light goes on at this situation and clears
if the ECU is back on the good side .... I know because I already went through
the whole procedure :(

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:29:37 1999
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To: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 10:33:16 -0500
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> > but calls for the valve to essentially replace the stock solenoid.
> I do not recommend this as you'll see less performance then.

You want to replace the stock solenoid with the Hallman connected (or any other boost controller for that matter).  The solenoid bleeds off boost pressure, you are better off with that pressure going into the motor (no matter how insignificant it is).  The other thing you gain by getting rid of it, is you allow the Hallman valve (or any other controller) to be the only thing controlling the wastegates - so it can do its job a lot more precisely.  If you leave the solenoid hooked up you will actually induce boost spikes or waviness in the boost level.

> > The manual shows one vac line out of the manifold AND one
> > vac line out of the Y-pipe connecting to the H connector.
>
> Usually, a bleeder valve simply bleeds pressure to the air.
> The Hallman design may need another feeder line to close the
> valve when boost rises. What manual are you refering to and
> do oyu say that BOTH lines lead to the H connector ?

Hallman isn't a bleeder valve - its a pressure restriction type valve.  It has two hoses and the valve in the middle - the input end goes to manifold pressure and the other goes to the wastegate actuators.

> > Should I cap the Y pipe outlet leading to the H or the cap
> > the line from the manifold?  After that, I'll just tee the
> > actuator lines on the bled side.

> And why should any of them be capped ? Makes no sense to me :)

Tee the main line going to the Hallman into the line that feeds the compressor bypass valve.  It should be the large hose coming off the top of the throttle body towards the front (terminates on the CBV under the MAF).  Using this for the signal line is best because it will close the wastegates when you let off the throttle.  Cap off the old boost feed line on the Y-pipe.  Get rid of the H-connector and just put a 3-way Tee in there - one hose to each wastegate hose and one from the Hallman.  If your Hallman has the small hose branching off the wastegate side, just tie wrap it to something near the valve.  This helps the wastegates close again after the valve stops feeding the wastegates boost pressure.  There's a restriction ring in the hose, make sure that stays in there.

> Also don't forget a good boost gauge ! The Hallman bleeder is
> not that fast and may cause overboost that cannot be seen by
> the stock gauge.  This is maybe why they say to remove the
> stock boost solenoid ...

The idea that the Hallman valve causes overboost is based on the incorrect assumption that it is a bleeder-type valve.  It is not.  You should hit your boost target dead-on and it should stay there until your turbos run out of flow at higher RPM's.  Roger is VERY correct in recommending a boost gauge though.  Don't even hook the Hallman up if you don't have an aftermarket gauge.  If the controller is set too high, you'll overboost big-time.

Here's a crummy diagram, but it should help you figure out what I mean.

Tee to CBV line--------[XXXX]-|   <- Hallman
                         ||
                         ||
            To air-------+|
                         ||
                         ||
                   To wastegates

Don't forget that the Hallman works in reverse of a bleeder valve - turning out the screw makes less boost and turning it in makes more boost.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:41:33 1999
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To test and see if the ECU is the problem then just disconnect the neg from the battery.  That will solve the ECU question, I would still look at the rear turbo as the source of the problem.

MCSE/ASE     

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Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
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> Hello Roger.....not at all a stupid question;  I just simply do not get
> anything above 0 psi on my boost gauge; but I can hear the turbos trying to
> spool up.....

Good sign to be able to hear the turbos :)

> Jack Tertadian and I already tried disconnecting the hose on the boost
> controller for the wastegates; went for a test run to see if there was any
> boost build up -- NOTHING....still NO BOOST......

Umpf, if there is NOTHING that controls the wastegates (i.e. staying closed) and
you're not getting ANY boost .... but they spool up ??? Strange ! What about a
clogged exhaust / pre-cat / fuel filter (nahh, would cause hesitation)

> Vacuum at idle is about -20 psi (somewhere around there); then when given a
> little throttle....will climb to 0 psi......but nothing farther.

Can you rev it up ? Checked the throttle cable ?? Idle vaccum is good so far :)

> I will look into my O2 sensor readings to check for richness.....haven't had
> a chance yet.....

Let us know.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 08:56:44 1999
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From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer case/Safety recalls for 97 VR4/Fubar!?
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FUBAR:
Fouled (or similar-meaning word that begins with an "F")
Up
Beyond
All
Repair (or "Recognition", depending on context)

Also, SNAFU:
Situation
Normal
All
Fouled (or similar-meaning word that begins with an "F")
Up

On 5 Oct 99, at 10:46, Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> PS What does Fubar mean?
>
Dennis Moore
stealth@quixnet.net
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 09:21:45 1999
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To: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
CC: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod
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> Hallman isn't a bleeder valve - its a pressure restriction type valve.

Big <snip>

Good info, and I learnt some more stuff :)

> Tee to CBV line--------[XXXX]-|   <- Hallman
>                          ||
>                          ||
>             To air-------+|
>                          ||
>                          ||
>                    To wastegates

What I currently don't understand is the "To air" ... doesn't this "bleed"
pressure/air out of the wastegate line ?

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 10:14:35 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod
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> > Tee to CBV line--------[XXXX]-|   <- Hallman
> >                          ||
> >                          ||
> >             To air-------+|
> >                          ||
> >                          ||
> >                    To wastegates
>
> What I currently don't understand is the "To air" ... doesn't
> this "bleed" pressure/air out of the wastegate line ?

Yes, it does bleed a very small amount out.  The hose is something like 1/16" hose and there is a brass restrictor plug in there with a very small hole (maybe 1/32").  This is just to help equalize pressure when the wastegate wants to close, similar to what the second solenoid does in the Blitz DSBC.  For comparison, the hose feeding the wastegates is more like 1/4" line with no restriction to the wastegates.  The flow loss through the atmosphere line is very small in comparison to what a "typical" bleeder valve does.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 10:45:27 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Stock boost on 97 VR4
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12 psi. Specs are in the manual.

Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon

Mike Baldwin wrote:

> Can someone let me know what the stock boost is on these babies? Also when
> can I find the specs for the car - are they in the owner's manual? Looking
> for stock tire size, etc.
>
> mb
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 11:38:43 1999
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Today I took my Stealth to a local Mitsu dealer to have them
investigate a "swish-swish" sound I've been hearing from the left-front
wheel in tight right-handers.  Fearing wheel bearings or a worn CV-joint
(try translating THAT!), it turns out the noise is caused by the tire
(and sometimes the wheel, apparently) rubbing against the strut.  They
tell me the same is happening on the right front wheel as well, but to a
lesser degree.  Isn't that odd?  These wheels are STOCK!  The tire size
is also stock, and while I'm aware that tire size can vary among
manufacturers, the stock tires were also Michelins.  Pretty strange that
this sort of problem would appear at 74+k miles, and I'm not quite sure
what to do about it.  It isn't rubbing enough to cause any damage, but I
don't like the noise (it's enough that I have lifter tick, bad bearings
in an accessory, a squeaking sound when the engine is cold, the infamous
hooting intake resonance (when the BOV is not installed), noisy
right-rear brakes, a rattle in the driver's door when the window is
rolled up too tight, and a squeaky driver's seat!).
I also got into a debate with the service manager about the differences
between U.S. and Euro-spec (for those of you who don't know, no Stealths
were ever officially imported/sold in Europe, and of the 3000GT models,
only the VR-4 was sold here).  He told me that today they pulled my pads
and verified that the Euro-spec pads do NOT fit my car, and he refused
to believe that the pads I have on there now are from Roger's Euro-spec
car! ("well, the Swiss cars must be different from the German cars!")
He also told me that he can visually distinguish between the U.S. and
Euro-spec turbos... I thought 9B and 13G used the same housing?  Anyway,
the mechanics seem competent but it will be a challenge to get them to
work on my car with Euro-spec parts if the need ever comes up.
Is there any way to find out EXACTLY what the differences are between
U.S. spec and Euro-spec VR-4/TT cars for each model year?  That would
sure make life a lot easier for those of us on this side of the pond!
TIA...

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 11:38:44 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost!! Also low RPM smoke.
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TurboDrvn@aol.com wrote:
>
> Roger Gerl wrote:
>
> << Stupid question : no boost, even nothing noticeable, or just not seen on
> the
>  meter ?
>
> Hello Roger.....not at all a stupid question;  I just simply do not get
> anything above 0 psi on my boost gauge; but I can hear the turbos trying to
> spool up.....

0 psi on the stock gauge, aftermarket gauge, or both?

Remember that the stock gauge is showing you what the ECU _thinks_ is
happening in the manifold.  If it is maxing out at 0, then I'm thinking
Mikael is right about the ECU shutting you down.  Have you tried
following the procedure for resetting the ECU?

If the stock gauge shows boost but the aftermarket gauge doesn't, then I
would think the problem is more serious.

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 11:52:15 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: No Boost!! Also low RPM smoke.
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:55:49 -0500
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Bad stock compressor bypass valve will also produce these symptoms.  You didn't mention if the stock one was still connected.  It also needs a manifold pressure source to hold the valve closed if it is in the loop.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 11:54:35 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 14:54:07 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Englishtown Raceway 10/10
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Anyone going to Englishtown this Sunday?
I'm going but without my car (frown).
Soon, very soon...I won't have to say that.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 12:22:44 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: upper stress bars?
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 13:49:19 -0500
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Does anybody know of a company that makes an upper stress bar for the
3000/stealths?  I've checked the major web sites I know of, and I also
checked with my local import performance shop, and can't find anything.
They have sway-bars available, but no upper stress bar.  Any ideas?

thanks :)

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 12:34:22 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: upper stress bars?
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 14:37:56 -0500
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> Does anybody know of a company that makes an upper stress bar for the
> 3000/stealths?  I've checked the major web sites I know of, and I also
> checked with my local import performance shop, and can't find
> anything.
> They have sway-bars available, but no upper stress bar.  Any ideas?

None available because there's nowhere to put them under the hood.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 13:32:00 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
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>  it turns out the noise is caused by the tire
> (and sometimes the wheel, apparently) rubbing against the strut.  They
> tell me the same is happening on the right front wheel as well, but to a
> lesser degree.  Isn't that odd?  These wheels are STOCK!  The tire size
> is also stock, and while I'm aware that tire size can vary among
> manufacturers, the stock tires were also Michelins.  Pretty strange that
> this sort of problem would appear at 74+k miles, and I'm not quite sure
> what to do about it.

The solution is easy ... do a re-alignement (German: Einstellung der
Fahrwerksgeometrie) ! Over the many miles and some driving and more I'm positive
the stuff should be realigned. I had the same on the front after four years,
just before the heavy accident. I changed the tires for the summer and noticed
the inside of the winter tires heavily worn. They found the front alignement on
the drivers side pretty off the settings. The rear were ok. For the alignement,
they should take the figures from a 95'3000GT but it's the same for every year
anyways.

> told me that today they pulled my pads and verified that the Euro-spec pads
> do NOT fit my car, and he refused to believe that the pads I have on there
> now are from Roger's Euro-spec car! ("well, the Swiss cars must be different
> from the German cars!")

Hahahahaha. This was the front brake kit that is sold for DM 150.- at the lokal
Mitsubishi dealer we installed on your car. Even the copper grease comes with a
Mitsu stamp on the package :)) Here we must know that the dealer onyl asks Mitsu
for getting the pads for a specific year and the package shows the diameter of
the rotors. Of course they do not fit and therefore the dealer says NO. They
can't see the caliper is the same. Mitsu here also learned on my car, haha.

> He also told me that he can visually distinguish between the U.S. and
> Euro-spec turbos... I thought 9B and 13G used the same housing?

Yes, but there is a stamped number on the housing where one digit is grinded and
replaced by another digit.

> Is there any way to find out EXACTLY what the differences are between
> U.S. spec and Euro-spec VR-4/TT cars for each model year?  That would
> sure make life a lot easier for those of us on this side of the pond!
> TIA...

You know, there is no way but asking Mitsu USA and Mitsu Europe but they have no
interest to talk with us about this. There is absolutely no problem to identify
parts as just don't mention that you have a Stealth. You'll get everything for a
3000GT (they even told me synchros are available) but nothing for a Stealth.

See you
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 13:32:09 1999
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> > What I currently don't understand is the "To air" ... doesn't
> > this "bleed" pressure/air out of the wastegate line ?
>
> Yes, it does bleed a very small amount out.

Ok, just wanted to know if there is it is a bleeder system or not.

>  This is just to help equalize pressure when the wastegate wants to close,
>  similar to what the second solenoid does in the Blitz DSBC.

Well, then you have a different DSBC solenoid box. On mine, both solenoids are
parallel and both are doing the same. The output of the valves is a switching
type. When the solenoid is closed the wastegate actuator lines bleed to the air
(both solenoids). I discovered this when I cleaned all the oil out of it after
my "problem" ;-/

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 13:38:20 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Hallman Bleeder Valve mod
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> Well, then you have a different DSBC solenoid box. On mine,
> both solenoids are parallel and both are doing the same.
> The output of the valves is a switching type. When the
> solenoid is closed the wastegate actuator lines bleed to
> the air (both solenoids). I discovered this when I
> cleaned all the oil out of it after my "problem" ;-/

I don't have an DSBC, but it was explained to me that the second solenoid was for releasing the pressure from the wastegate line so that the wastegate could close again after the boost lowers.  Maybe I'm thinking of a different controller or I misunderstood.  I have the HKS EVC IV, and have no idea exactly how the black box on it works.  I think we both understand what we mean though.  :-)

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 15:12:45 1999
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From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: upper stress bars?
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No one makes the upper stress bar for our car.. yet..

Brian @ GTPro is working on a carbon fiber hood that
will fit a strut bar... but i think i read in his past
3si post that he had a prototype out for a long time
already.. but i can't confirm that..

Who makes sway bars?? is it for a TT?? I would imagine
puttin a set on a TT whould be a big pain in the a$$..

George
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

--- "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
wrote:
> Does anybody know of a company that makes an upper
> stress bar for the
> 3000/stealths?  I've checked the major web sites I
> know of, and I also
> checked with my local import performance shop, and
> can't find anything.
> They have sway-bars available, but no upper stress
> bar.  Any ideas?
>
> thanks :)
>
> Latufh fuh U,
> Benson
> benson@2015.com
>
> "-Do you ever have second thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 15:32:03 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: upper stress bars?
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 16:58:38 -0500
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>Who makes sway bars?? is it for a TT?? I would imagine
>puttin a set on a TT whould be a big pain in the a$$..

I'm not sure of the company that makes 'em, but when I was talking with my
local performance shop he said he can get them for the car (I didn't ask the
manufacturer).  I'll give him a call and see what he says.



Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 18:37:54 1999
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Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:37:24 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Looking for a scrap yard
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Hi all,
I'm looking for a set of precats that I can gut. I want to save my own.
Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look. I tried East STreet but they
don't have any and don't usually keep them.

Thanks,
Paul
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 18:41:06 1999
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From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:40:37 -0400
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I just purchased an Air/Fuel Meter from GTPRO, it is made by spliut sec, =
I need to know where is the bvest place to get the readings from the O2 =
sensors in my 98 3000GT SL (Automatic). Any suggestion?

Edwin

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just purchased an Air/Fuel Meter from GTPRO, it is =
made by=20
spliut sec, I need to know where is the bvest place to get the readings =
from the=20
O2 sensors in my 98 3000GT SL (Automatic). Any suggestion?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Edwin</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 18:49:17 1999
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From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
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Subject: Team3S: wastegate questions
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 19:41:24 -0600
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This might be a long shot but I wanted to try. Has anyone seen or know if
the greddy type-r wastegate flange is the same as TIAL or anything alike???


92 3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be exactly what the plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://members.xoom.com/palamarap <http://members.xoom.com/palamarap> 


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 22:59:52 1999
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    I was looking at the Bee-Racing GTO in the October issue of Turbo.
Does anyone know if they have a distributor in the U.S. or Europe?  I am
really interested in the exhaust manifold.  They really did a nice job
on it.  I am not versed enough in turbos to compare the HK$ ones they
installed to say, 17g's.  Anyone know how they compare?  Also I cannot
tell but it does not look like they are using a MAS.  Either that or it
is under the headlight.

Thanks,

Mike
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 22:59:56 1999
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> * EGT Temp Probe located in Rear Exhaust Manifold, prior to the turbo.
> Add 150F degrees if probe is after the turbo. 250F if probe in
> downpipe/collector.

I have an APEXi EGT gauge mounted in the front exhaust manifold about
two inches before
it mates to the turbo.  I also drive on the Autobahn for extended times
at 100+ speeds.
I have sustained 975  for over 15 seconds before.  If I am going over
100 mph and I
floor it my EGT's will always go above 925.  The most I have ever seen
was about 980-990
C.  When I regapped my plugs all these figures dropped about 25 C.  So
right now if I am
going 120 mph on a steep uphill in 5th with the DSBC set at 15 psi, I
will see at least
950 C.  I have suspected that my probe may not be calibrated correctly,
but how do you
test for 950 C?  I have an Alamo downpipe, test pipe and Borla
cat-back.  The pre-cats
are intact and not clogged (at least the front one).  Plug gap is at
.034 right now.
    After I installed the EGT I posted a similar question, and several
people told me
that while they were high, they are normal.

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

>
>
> Celsius to Fahrenheit conversion formula is as follows:
> Multiply Celsius degrees by 9 and divide by 5, then add 32.
>
> Stock motor & pistons
> Celsius = Fahrenheit
>  950     =  1742  PISTON MELT DOWN EMINENT ! (short 1-2 sec bursts)
>  925     =  1700  Getting damn close
>  900     =  1652  About the maximum limit - unless racing
>  875     =  1607  or less No problems...
>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct  5 23:47:56 1999
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From: "Bob Rand" <rtr@vnet.net>
To: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <689c13b6.252b620e@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: No Boost !!   Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 02:46:02 -0400
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Man,  Sounds like a wastegate is stuck open.   If you can hear the turbos
spooling up it would seam that you would get some preasure.

Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 10:15 AM
Subject: Team3S: No Boost !! Also low rpm Smoke (sorry, long post)


> Hi all,
>     Well, things were going great with all my upgrades BUT now something
has
> happened with my boost situation.  I was on my way to the rescheduled NOPI


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 00:18:19 1999
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References: <37FA50C6.3E0E844B@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:21:00 +0200
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Hi Jim

The German importer shall have a CDRom with all parts and when they find the
part you are looking for they just enter your chassi number and the software
provides the part number that fit your modell and year. Ask someone in US
with a 95 3000gt if they can send you their chassi number so you can use it
to find parts for your car.

The front brake pads are the same, the rear Euro callipers are different
from the US version, atleast on my 93.

/Mikael

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 00:43:35 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Looking for a scrap yard
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:30:20 +0200
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I got my rear pre-cat from an "internet salvage yard". They offered it to me
for $250 and I talked them down to $100. It even came with the 02 sensor
still in :) Sorry, can't remember the name but I found it via the web
search.

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

>I'm looking for a set of precats that I can gut. I want to save my own.
>Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look. I tried East STreet but
they
>don't have any and don't usually keep them.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 00:43:40 1999
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To: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>, "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:34:31 +0200
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Ed,

Call Brian at GTPRO for the proper information. Also I think your 98 does
have four O2 sensors so you should tap into one of the wires from the
sensors before the cats.

ADMIN Note : Please turn of the HTML, as this may confuse the mailing list
server. Thanks.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 00:43:45 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: wastegate questions
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:35:54 +0200
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Peter, you may call or email Brian @ GT PRO as he's pretty familiar with the
Greddy stuff.

ROger
93'3000GT TT


>This might be a long shot but I wanted to try. Has anyone seen or know if
>the greddy type-r wastegate flange is the same as TIAL or anything alike???


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 00:43:52 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bee-Racing Products
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>I am really interested in the exhaust manifold.  They really did a nice job
>on it.  I am not versed enough in turbos to compare the HK$ ones they
>installed to say, 17g's.  Anyone know how they compare?  Also I cannot
>tell but it does not look like they are using a MAS.  Either that or it
>is under the headlight.

I was told that this is a custom made header design and nothing that will be
produced in a larger series. Of course if we order 50 or so .... They
installed three different turbos and the largest were comparable to 20Gs but
dunno the others. For the fuel part I thought that they are using a VPC
(i.e. no MAs nor MAF). Don't have the turbo mag (too much wrong stuff in
there) so I can't see the pics.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 00:43:59 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:43:56 +0200
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>Ask someone in US with a 95 3000gt if they can send you their chassi number
so you can use it
>to find parts for your car.

Good idea :)

>The front brake pads are the same, the rear Euro callipers are different
>from the US version, atleast on my 93.

Jims Stealth and my 93'Euro 3000GT do have the same two-piston calipers in
the rear. The rotor size is the same too in the rear.

CU
Roger
93'3000GT TT



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From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
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I just purchased an Air/Fuel Meter from GTPRO, it is made by split
sec, I need to know where is the best place to get the readings from
the O2 sensors in my 98 3000GT SL (Automatic). Any suggestion?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 06:25:35 1999
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Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 08:30:33 +0100
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
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Hello All,

Car in Question: Dark Green 1994 Mitsubishi 3000gt SL 5speed with 61,000
       miles.  As far as I know everything is stock (had the car 2000 miles
       so far).

I've been trying to follow the Digest list as time permits but I am behind
       in my reading (like with everything else).  However, I did get to
       finally change my oil (I put about 45mi/day on my 1994 3000gt SL):
       I am very picky with my cars and have a few hangups with this one
       (other than the dent I noticed someone prior to me buying the car
       had put in the door and if you look just so you can see it):

The oil change was a breeze, I think I will go back to changing the oil
       filter every OTHER oil change like the manual said and someone on
       the list or somewhere said (Filters seem to work optimally when
       slightly dirty for filtering smaller particles): plus I can justify
       the more expensive recommended Mitsubishi oil filters that way and
       have peace of mind.  After researching I decided to go with
       Valvoline 20w-50wt  (also, my brother used it in his very
       smooth-running  1983 Toyota Supra with 160,000 miles on it without
       any problems and he said I should probably stick to non-synthetic
       oil if the car hadn't had synthetic oil in it:  my car has 61,000
       miles on it).

PROBLEM 1:  The car seems a bit sluggish starting out now  where it didn't
       before: outside temp may be 60-80degrees (Houston) when the car is
       cold.  After about 5 min. it seems OK and I was wondering if anyone
       else had this problem with 20wt viscosity oil?

PROBLEM 2: or is it a problem?:  Is it normal for all front wheel drive
       cars to feel this way?  This is hard to describe and I guess it is
       quite subtle but it feels kind of like the car "bottoms out", for
       lack of a better word, when I go over small bumps or for that
       matter, am just cruising along.  I doubt I have a bad shock or
       anything and I doubt the struts would go out so early (61000mi): I'm
       thinking this is just how the car rides, even if it were new.

PROBLEM3:  I have a huge problem with the stupid ECS button (Electronic
       Control Suspension):  who the heck needs it?  The "Sport" ride with
       this button depressed is so spongy with no bumps in the road and way
       overkill when you do go over bumps and  the car's rear seems to lift
       over larger bumps and give the feeling of losing control of the
       vehicle before all wheels feel like they are on the ground:  I
       personally do not feel safer or sportier cornering (recall that
       cornering is supposed to be improved with this button on) with the
       ECS on, so I usually leave it off always:  does it really improve
       cornering??

Do you racers on the list keep the ECS on or off???

PROBLEM 4:  One time when I thought the car was in reverse it apparently
       was somewhere else and as I let off the clutch at a complete stop
       the car CLUNKED real LOUD and shook violently for a fraction of a
       second while it complained loudly "CLUNK" which the neighbors
       literally 4 houses down could have heard.  I did it a couple more
       times because I couldn't believe my ears and then I finally found
       reverse and ever since I have been careful to make sure I am in
       reverse:  No offense VR4's (because I wish I had one aside from the
       transmission), but DO THESE 5-speed STANDARD TRANSMISSIONS HAVE SOME
       OF THE SAME PROBLEMS THAT THE VR4   6-speed TRANSMISSIONS HAVE?

PROBLEM 5:  The clutch was replaced at  55,000 miles in Aug.1998. I thought
       maybe it was just that I needed to get used to the feel of the
       clutch (do clutches take some time before they are
       less"grabby"/"sensitive"?):  I bought an expensive car for class and
       I don't expect the car to shift like a Mercedes but I really don't
       want my girlfriend complaining that I am jerking her around (pardon
       the pun) or contributing to spilling her drink:   It always shifts
       into 4th or 5th gear very smoothly so that I can omit all of the
       "grabbing" feeling in those gears but first gear is the worst: I
       find shifting at 3000rpm in 1st and 2nd gears to the next gear up to
       work the best.  But sometimes the car jerks like if you let off the
       clutch too fast.   ALSO, many times just in traffic and inching up
       when I am slowly creeping along smoothly in 1st gear, maybe 3-5mph,
       and I try to accelerate as SLOWLY as possible, the car jerks:  this
       also happens in 2nd gear.   I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE GAS PEDAL IS
       TOO SENSITIVE/HARD, i.e. when I press down initially on the gas the
       pedal goes down too far (maybe 1/4 inch?) unless I am SO careful and
       SLOW at accelerating:  Maybe there is a place to lube the gas pedal
       (????) or I need to check the carpet around the pedal or something
       for sticking????????????????  So maybe that part is not clutch
       related??????????   The dealer told me to check the reservoir where
       for the clutch to make sure it is full  but I doubt it is low after
       6000 miles:  what fluid do you all use?



Thanks alot for ANY input and sorry this is so long, please CUT and SNIP on
       all replies guys and gals!!!!!    Bob


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Message-ID: <00d801bf100a$32db1840$10c9c9c9@benson>
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Stealth to Euro-Mitsu dealer experience
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:49:55 -0500
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>The German importer shall have a CDRom with all parts and when they find
the
>part you are looking for they just enter your chassi number and the
software
>provides the part number that fit your modell and year. Ask someone in US
>with a 95 3000gt if they can send you their chassi number so you can use it
>to find parts for your car.


I have a base 1995 3000GT.  If you can tell me where to look for the chasis
number I'll see if I can find it (as long as it doesn't mean taking the car
apart :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 10:24:50 -0500
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PROBLEM3:  I have a huge problem with the stupid ECS button (Electronic
       Control Suspension):  who the heck needs it?  The "Sport" ride with
       this button depressed is so spongy with no bumps in the road and way
       overkill when you do go over bumps and  the car's rear seems to lift
       over larger bumps and give the feeling of losing control of the
       vehicle before all wheels feel like they are on the ground:  I
       personally do not feel safer or sportier cornering (recall that
       cornering is supposed to be improved with this button on) with the
       ECS on, so I usually leave it off always:  does it really improve
       cornering??

Do you racers on the list keep the ECS on or off???
-----------------------------------------------------

I have a 95 base 3000GT so I don't have the ECS, but I believe (and I'm not
100% sure, but I'm sure that someone else on here can agree / disagree with
this :) that if yer interested in making the car look better, getting the
car lowered will basically get rid of it.  I purchased a set of Eibach
springs and lowered my car 1.3 inches.  Looks a lot nicer, and the handling
is much better than before.

-----------------------------------------------------
PROBLEM 5:  The clutch was replaced at  55,000 miles in Aug.1998. I thought
       maybe it was just that I needed to get used to the feel of the
       clutch (do clutches take some time before they are
       less"grabby"/"sensitive"?):  I bought an expensive car for class and
       I don't expect the car to shift like a Mercedes but I really don't
       want my girlfriend complaining that I am jerking her around (pardon
       the pun) or contributing to spilling her drink:   It always shifts
       into 4th or 5th gear very smoothly so that I can omit all of the
       "grabbing" feeling in those gears but first gear is the worst: I
       find shifting at 3000rpm in 1st and 2nd gears to the next gear up to
       work the best.  But sometimes the car jerks like if you let off the
       clutch too fast.   ALSO, many times just in traffic and inching up
       when I am slowly creeping along smoothly in 1st gear, maybe 3-5mph,
       and I try to accelerate as SLOWLY as possible, the car jerks:  this
       also happens in 2nd gear.   I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE GAS PEDAL IS
       TOO SENSITIVE/HARD, i.e. when I press down initially on the gas the
       pedal goes down too far (maybe 1/4 inch?) unless I am SO careful and
       SLOW at accelerating:  Maybe there is a place to lube the gas pedal
       (????) or I need to check the carpet around the pedal or something
       for sticking????????????????  So maybe that part is not clutch
       related??????????   The dealer told me to check the reservoir where
       for the clutch to make sure it is full  but I doubt it is low after
       6000 miles:  what fluid do you all use?
---------------------------------------------------------
For me, and I had the same with my '94 eclipse GS, the clutches on these
cars are very unforgiving when it comes to getting a smooth ride and takes
some practice and getting used to.  Granted, once you do get it smooth, you
can pretty much drive any stick and get it smooth :).  Yer right about 1st
gear, if yer going pretty slow with the clutch out, and then try to
accelerate, the car will jerk a little.  It's pretty much unless yer in
rush-hour traffic (I'm originally from Chicago, so I know about that ;)p,
get into 2nd to cruise at lower speeds of like 15 mph or above.  If you just
need to inch along, what I do is slowly let up on the clutch (in 1st),
giving it gas, but not fully letting up on the clutch.  I let 1st grab a bit
to get the car rolling, and then put the clutch back in so I'm coasting.
This way when traffic starts moving again I can accelerate properly from
first without it jerking.

Yer also right about best shifting at 3000 rpm's, that's basically the way
this car is really designed.  I pretty much always try to shift around
3000 - 3500 rpm's between gears when accelerating (as in just normal
cruising).  The only other thing I can think of that's helped me smooth out
the ride when going through 1st and 2nd gear is to let the clutch up nice
and slow to give it a smooth transition between gears (even after the gear
engages, I take my time up on that clutch a bit, giving it a little gas
because I've found if I just let up on it right there, the car jerks a bit).
Also, while yer slowly letting up on the clutch, give it a little gas all
the way through (not a bunch mind ya) so as yer letting it slowly engage,
it's got the power it needs to get into the next gear without jerking.
Again, my eclipse was VERY unforgiving on trying to get a smooth ride, and
that's transitioned over to my 3000GT (although the 3000GT is much easier
than my eclipse was, but it still can be unforgiving).

Also, what did they replace the clutch with (aftermarket, or a factory
clutch)?  If it's an aftermarket clutch (like some kind of performance
clutch), then that could be yer problem.  Performance clutches are made to
pretty much be on or off for quick and fast engaging.  So it'd be much
harder to drive one of those smoothly as compared to a factory clutch.

I hope this email didn't come off as belittling or anything of the like with
regards to the shifting stuff.  Don't mean to sound like a teacher or
anything, just sharing what I've found works for me :).



Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 09:14:19 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 09:14:06 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Hi Paul,

> I'm looking for a set of precats that I can gut. I want to save my own.
> Anyone have any suggestions as to where to look. I tried East STreet but they
> don't have any and don't usually keep them.

Here are a few junkyards that have shown up on the list in the past.

M&S is located in Rancho Cordova near Sacramento.
1-800-695-4700
http://www.msrecycling.com/main.html


Foster's Auto Parts
10355 SE Foster Road
Portland, OR
(800) 547-4851
(800) 278-5548
                     
East Street Automotive
810 East Street ( who'da thunkit? )
Memphis, Tennersee 38104
phone: (901) 774-5374
fax:      (901) 774-5336

Good luck...

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 09:19:37 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Robert Jerome Mengler'" <RMENGLER@statoil.com>
Cc: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Que
stions
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:19:01 -0700
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Robert...

Welcome. I think answers to some of your questions are in the archives, but
I'll try to be brief with embedded <cjw - response> comments. Enjoy!!!

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Jerome Mengler [mailto:RMENGLER@statoil.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 12:31 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: r4381576@earthlink.net; Robert Jerome Mengler
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie
Questions

<snip>
The oil change was a breeze, <snip> After researching I decided to go with
       Valvoline 20w-50wt  (also, my brother used it in his very
       smooth-running  1983 Toyota Supra with 160,000 miles on it without
       any problems and he said I should probably stick to non-synthetic
       oil if the car hadn't had synthetic oil in it:  my car has 61,000
       miles on it).

PROBLEM 1:  The car seems a bit sluggish starting out now  where it didn't
       before: outside temp may be 60-80degrees (Houston) when the car is
       cold.  After about 5 min. it seems OK and I was wondering if anyone
       else had this problem with 20wt viscosity oil?

<cjw - although I'm not a NA 3KGT owner, I use synthetic oil in ALL my
vehicles, including NA ones I've bought with more than 75K miles on them. I
do a flush and then change over. I'm currently using Mobil One 15-50w in
four vehicles, ranging from 40K miles to 136K miles. None of them started
their lives with synthetic, all are doing well. Start up "sluggishness" is
eliminated. BTW...I used to use Valvoline 20-50w Racing Oil in all my
hotrods, but that was before synthetic oil was readily available.>

PROBLEM 2: or is it a problem?:  Is it normal for all front wheel drive
       cars to feel this way?  This is hard to describe and I guess it is
       quite subtle but it feels kind of like the car "bottoms out", for
       lack of a better word, when I go over small bumps or for that
       matter, am just cruising along.  I doubt I have a bad shock or
       anything and I doubt the struts would go out so early (61000mi): I'm
       thinking this is just how the car rides, even if it were new.

<cjw - well, it sounds like a potential problem to me, particularly when
combined with your next issue. There is a DISTINCT difference (improvement)
in the handling and associate stiffness with the ECS set in sport mode
(versus tour). I have lowered progressive Eibach springs and still never
bottom out. This sounds like a leaky strut. Have you checked for leakage?
BTW...I set the ECS on sport mode when I drag race,  whenever I plan on
breaking the 100mph mark, and whenever I doing some hard cornering...even at
50 mph. Perhaps some of the wiring is broken (they're very small wires and
prone to breaking at the connector), so you might have a couple working and
a couple that don't work. This would produce the "unbalance" sensation.>

PROBLEM3:  <snip>  ECS on, so I usually leave it off always:  does it really
improve
       cornering?? Do you racers on the list keep the ECS on or off???

PROBLEM 4:  <snip> No offense VR4's (because I wish I had one aside from the
       transmission), but DO THESE 5-speed STANDARD TRANSMISSIONS HAVE SOME
       OF THE SAME PROBLEMS THAT THE VR4   6-speed TRANSMISSIONS HAVE?

<cjw - Gee, I hope not. It's bad enough the Getrag is failure prone. My 6
speed certainly is cranky about going into reverse. I usually hold the
shifter at the gate and SLOWLY engage the clutch until it drops into
reverse.>

PROBLEM 5:  The clutch was replaced at  55,000 miles in Aug.1998. I thought
       maybe it was just that I needed to get used to the feel of the
       clutch (do clutches take some time before they are
       less"grabby"/"sensitive"?):  <snip>  I THINK IT IS BECAUSE THE GAS
PEDAL IS
       TOO SENSITIVE/HARD, i.e. when I press down initially on the gas the
       pedal goes down too far (maybe 1/4 inch?) unless I am SO careful and
       SLOW at accelerating:  Maybe there is a place to lube the gas pedal
       (????) or I need to check the carpet around the pedal or something
       for sticking????????????????  So maybe that part is not clutch
       related??????????   The dealer told me to check the reservoir where
       for the clutch to make sure it is full  but I doubt it is low after
       6000 miles:  what fluid do you all use?

<cjw - Your car should shift better than a Mercedes. Yes, check the
reservoir. Was the clutch replaced with a stock clutch? Or aftermarket?
Hopefully, all components (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing) and a
resurface on the flywheel was done at the same time. Otherwise, you're
headed for premature failure. Find out who did the work and get a copy of
the work order. The throttle body is actuated by a cable. You can lube the
cable with a good quality silicone spray, starting at the top end (at the
throttle body). The silicone will work it's way through the entire cable.
The accelerator should move smoothly and freely (restricted only by the
return spring). >

Thanks alot for ANY input and sorry this is so long, please CUT and SNIP on
       all replies guys and gals!!!!!    Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 09:26:32 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell'" <benson@2015.com>
Cc: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Que
stions
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:25:46 -0700
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Benson...

This one piece of your reply <snipped> is interesting. Have you tried
shifting at higher RPMs? Even though my 3KGT is a TT, I can't imagine
shifting regularly at 3K to 3.5K RPMs. I doubt you're into the torque curve
after you've shifted. Whether my econobox or the TT, I normally shift around
5.5K unless I'm trying to conserve fuel. I think it's smoother, and tends to
bog less. Just my preference.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 8:25 AM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie
Questions

<snip>

Yer also right about best shifting at 3000 rpm's, that's basically the way
this car is really designed.  I pretty much always try to shift around
3000 - 3500 rpm's between gears when accelerating (as in just normal
cruising). 

<snip>

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 09:34:40 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie Questions
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 11:01:06 -0500
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>Benson...
>
>This one piece of your reply <snipped> is interesting. Have you tried
>shifting at higher RPMs? Even though my 3KGT is a TT, I can't imagine
>shifting regularly at 3K to 3.5K RPMs. I doubt you're into the torque =
curve
>after you've shifted. Whether my econobox or the TT, I normally shift =
around
>5.5K unless I'm trying to conserve fuel. I think it's smoother, and =
tends to
>bog less. Just my preference.
>
>Looking forward...Chris

I shift around 3000 - 3500 RPM's for just normal, driving around town =
driving (gas conservative stuff and all :).  But when I'm performance =
driving, then yes I usually go to 6000-7000 and then shift.  My eclipse =
liked shifting at just before 6000 when performance driving, but the =
nice thing about the 3000GT's is they seem to like it closer to 7000 :). =
Such a fun car to drive :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>&gt;Benson...<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;This one =
piece of your=20
reply &lt;snipped&gt; is interesting. Have you tried<BR>&gt;shifting at =
higher=20
RPMs? Even though my 3KGT is a TT, I can't imagine<BR>&gt;shifting =
regularly at=20
3K to 3.5K RPMs. I doubt you're into the torque curve<BR>&gt;after =
you've=20
shifted. Whether my econobox or the TT, I normally shift =
around<BR>&gt;5.5K=20
unless I'm trying to conserve fuel. I think it's smoother, and tends=20
to<BR>&gt;bog less. Just my preference.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;Looking=20
forward...Chris<BR><BR>I shift around 3000 - 3500 RPM's for just normal, =
driving=20
around town driving (gas conservative stuff and all :).&nbsp; But when =
I'm=20
performance driving, then yes I usually go to 6000-7000 and then =
shift.&nbsp; My=20
eclipse liked shifting at just before 6000 when performance driving, but =
the=20
nice thing about the 3000GT's is they seem to like it closer to 7000 =
:).&nbsp;=20
Such a fun car to drive :).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Latufh fuh U,<BR>Benson<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:benson@2015.com">benson@2015.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>"-Do you ever have second =
thoughts?<BR>-When do I=20
ever have first thoughts?"</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
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Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: Newbie
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Okay... well I guess I may be doing something bad then... cause I rarely run over 2200rpm when shifting.  Unless I am racing.  Then it is 6500 or so.  Is this a bad thing to do??? I mean no it isn't the fastest way to get to speed, but I get in the 30MPG range... Since my tranny and clutch and transfer case are brand spankin new I guess I need to know if this is bad or not.

Ryan

MCSE/ASE     

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 09:49:33 1999
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> Okay... well I guess I may be doing something bad then... cause I rarely run over 2200rpm when shifting.  Unless I am racing.  Then it is 6500 or so.  Is this a bad thing to do??? I mean no it isn't the fastest way to get to speed, but I get in the 30MPG range... Since my tranny and clutch and transfer case are brand spankin new I guess I need to know if this is bad or not.

You should always (i.e. after a shift) keep your RPM above 1800 when driving.
Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good for your engine to
be under load with low oil pressure.

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 09:58:42 1999
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To: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>, <benson@2015.com>,
        <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: NewbieQuestions
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 09:53:14 -0700
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Ryan;

If you're shifting at 6500 when racing you're shifting late...out of your
power curve. Try in the 58-6000 range. And, the car is a high performance
car so shifting in the low rpm bands is not doing it any good on a daily
driver basis. You might get god gas mileage but believe it not, it's harder
on the engine. Whereas Chris advises 55, and it is good advise, you could
get by with 45 g shifts.. but don't settle for anything lower.

Best

Darc
-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Floyd <FloydR@dvn.com>
To: benson@2015.com <benson@2015.com>; cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 9:40 AM
Subject: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: NewbieQuestions


>Okay... well I guess I may be doing something bad then... cause I rarely
run over 2200rpm when shifting.  Unless I am racing.  Then it is 6500 or so.
Is this a bad thing to do??? I mean no it isn't the fastest way to get to
speed, but I get in the 30MPG range... Since my tranny and clutch and
transfer case are brand spankin new I guess I need to know if this is bad or
not.
>
>Ryan
>
>MCSE/ASE
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 10:07:47 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000gt SL: 1st oil change,clutch,ECS,etc.: NewbieQuestions
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I was always taught that for any manual transmission car that when cruising
along (not shifting, just actual driving at sustained speed) you want to
keep yer RPM's between 2200 - 2500.  Then if the RPM's start going above
3000, then it's time to shift to another gear (unless yer already at the top
:).  If yer shifting at 2200, then that means yer next gear is starting out
around 1600, that's definatley bad.


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 11:46:14 1999
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Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
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Hello to all:

I was wondering if anyone out there has washed out and reused their HKS
sponge filters with success.  Please advise.

Best regards,

SJ
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 12:24:54 1999
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I was at the track with Ahmed, and drove his car.  The car makes
NO positive pressure at all, against full load against the footbrake,
even when I took the wastegate hose completely OFF the boost controller,
to remove the boost controller from ANY chance of screwup; the
wastegates remained completely closed forever and
uncontrollably high boost SHOULD have happened, but NO boost was
produced; it only got to atmospheric (0psi) pressure on Ahmed's
aftermarket boost gauge.  Therefore, the intake tract is open to
atmosphere someplace after the compressors, or all compressed
air from ONE turbo is backfeeding through the other defective turbo.
We checked all  hoses, I saw none off.  I checked as best I could the
intercoolers
and saw no gross cracks (they are made of aluminum, welded, unlike
Supras which have plastic end tanks crimped onto the aluminum IC; blew the
endtanks off my buddy's Supra a couple weeks ago after putting the HKS twin ball-

bearing turbo kit on his car at too-high boost!)

The only suggestion that makes full sense so far is that either a
compressor wheel, or an exhaust turbine wheel, has come off
the shaft (or completely frozen) on one of the turbos such that
the other turbo (which still works) is having all its positive pressure
backfed with ~ no resistance, so no boost shows up ever.

Ahmed, you need to check the back turbo compressor side, and if
not bad, then I'd suggest you need to REMOVE front turbo(could be that one
if the not-visible turbine wheel "came off") and then the
back turbo (since it is harder, do it LAST) to see which is the
problem...ugh.  Let us know!

Jack Tertadian

Yogourt@aol.com wrote:

> TurboDrvn@aol.com writes:
> If my GReddy Profec B boost controller was faulty; I would still get
>  some  minimal boost - so the boost controller should be fine.
>
> I think it has to be your boost controler malfunctioning.  If nothing
> prevents the boost from getting to the engine(open BOV, leak in pipes), then
> something has to be preventing the turbos from making boost.  This could be 2
> stuck open wastgates, a faulty boost controller, or hose leaks.  If you
> didn't find any leaks and the wastegates are not stuck it must be the boost
> controller.  Try reconnecting the stock boost controller and see if you get
> any boost.
> Paul

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 12:40:20 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Transfer case leak/cracks
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Regarding 91-93 (ALUMINUM) transfer case failures:
I can document that my last bad xfer case had a leak due to a crack in the
aluminum case.  The crack was located at the area surrounding the lower driverside
bolt that attaches the xfer case to the transmission, (or maybe the tailshaft to
the main xfer case?) as I recall; at any rate, the crack was in the case at the junction

between the xfer case's "tailshaft" and the main xfer CASE, lower rearmost
bolt on driver side.  The aluminum there is machined thinner because the rear
round hole is there, the side/faceplate hole is on the driverside.

I had two other cases start such leaks, wasn't sure where leak was from
(never took apart to SEE the crack as I did the LAST time); those cases
had the gears go bad, but that could be because no FLUID as FIRST
problem, not necessarily a primary gear or bearing failure..  Of note, the
gears in the last (cracked) case all looked fine; the case just LEAKED.
It may have been repairable;  since warrantied, I did not try.  If
left to leak, all fluid would disappear and one could falsely be led to believe
it was primary gear or other seal failure, if crack not searched for.
1994+ have cast iron transfer cases, which do not crack/break much
(has anybody broken a 94+ iron xfer case?)

Jack Tertadian

Darcy Gunnlaugson wrote:

> Has anyone inspected the source of leak/s on these 1st gen (aluminum)
> transfer cases? Are they a weak point crack (as Mikael noted in his
> rebuild), leaking gasket? Are they repairable?
> Darc

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 12:56:21 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'sjc0u812@juno.com'" <sjc0u812@juno.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 12:50:48 -0700
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SJ...

I wash out my HKS Super Flo's every couple months. Soap and water, squeeze
dry, left to sit for a day or two. Works great, they hold their shape well,
and fit back into the baskets nicely. However, there was a filter review
posted a few weeks ago that indicate our filters don't filter worth spit.
:-(

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: sjc0u812@juno.com [mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 11:42 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters

Hello to all:

I was wondering if anyone out there has washed out and reused their HKS
sponge filters with success.  Please advise.

Best regards, SJ
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 14:07:47 1999
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My ECS lights are flashing, but both tour and sport lights are flashing
at the same time. Does this indicate a gross malfunction? Can I replace
the wiring harnesses? I suspect it may be the wiring, and I don't want
to replace a whole strut if I don't have to.

Matt
#311
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 14:52:26 1999
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To: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Silver State ORR - off topic
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 14:52:16 -0700
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Folks...

For all you road racers that are building your engines (and brakes), have
you considered...

http://www.silverstateclassic.com/

Keep in mind, this is off topic (non-technical), but I'm wondering if anyone
has run this Open Road Race, or plans to in 2000?

Please reply PRIVATELY!!!

Looking forward...Chris
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 15:42:12 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <37FBBBA9.53AA@gate.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ECS problem.
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 23:37:52 +0200
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> My ECS lights are flashing, but both tour and sport lights are flashing
> at the same time. Does this indicate a gross malfunction? Can I replace
> the wiring harnesses? I suspect it may be the wiring, and I don't want
> to replace a whole strut if I don't have to.

First, make sure all the conenction is good. Pull the front connectors and
clean them with contact spray and make sure the wires are in good shape. In
the most of the cases this is the problem. If you are sure all the
connections are fine and the ECS lights are still flashing then one of the
struts is really gone.

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 16:21:50 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:21:32 -0500
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4??
how come a nonturbo needs 4 O2 sensors and where are they? just curious?

Omar
92 r/t

> Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
>
>
> Ed,
>
> Call Brian at GTPRO for the proper information. Also I think your 98 does
> have four O2 sensors so you should tap into one of the wires from the
> sensors before the cats.
>
> ADMIN Note : Please turn of the HTML, as this may confuse the mailing list
> server. Thanks.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 16:27:42 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <NDBBIMNBJKHKKNBKNCIKMEDDDAAA.ojm@iname.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 01:26:10 +0200
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> 4??
> how come a nonturbo needs 4 O2 sensors and where are they? just curious?

This has absolutely nothing to do with nonturbo or turbo or Nitrous or
whatever. It is emmision related.

Of course only the ODBII and California cars have 4 of them ! As you know
these cars have to test if the pre-cats are still working and therefore, one
is in front of the precat and another afterwards. And as all our cars have a
V6 ... 2x2 = 4.

Hope this helps (food for the FAQ !!!)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 17:00:37 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 18:57:10 -0500
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OH!. so all non turbos and turbos have precats. i thought it was just
turbos. i didn't know that. does this apply to the older 1st gen non turbos
as well? do i have precats i could gut?

Omar


> This has absolutely nothing to do with nonturbo or turbo or Nitrous or
> whatever. It is emmision related.
>
> Of course only the ODBII and California cars have 4 of them ! As you know
> these cars have to test if the pre-cats are still working and
> therefore, one
> is in front of the precat and another afterwards. And as all our
> cars have a
> V6 ... 2x2 = 4.
>
> Hope this helps (food for the FAQ !!!)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 17:23:54 1999
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Date: Wed, 06 Oct 1999 20:34:32 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
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I've got the sponge filters but I'm not particularly impressed with them.  After washing
them I put a light quote of engine oil on the outside surface (HKS recommendation) and
place them back in retaining mesh.  I've had a difficult time getting them to firmly
rest against the mating part causing a direct leak path for dirt.  Even when I do get
them to seal, there is evidence of dirt getting through (usually found collected on the
inside wall at the first bend).  I wouldn't mind switching over to a K&N type filter.

Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT Stealth

Chris Winkley wrote:

> SJ...
>
> I wash out my HKS Super Flo's every couple months. Soap and water, squeeze
> dry, left to sit for a day or two. Works great, they hold their shape well,
> and fit back into the baskets nicely. However, there was a filter review
> posted a few weeks ago that indicate our filters don't filter worth spit.
> :-(
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sjc0u812@juno.com [mailto:sjc0u812@juno.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 11:42 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponge Filters
>
> Hello to all:
>
> I was wondering if anyone out there has washed out and reused their HKS
> sponge filters with success.  Please advise.
>
> Best regards, SJ
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 17:48:37 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question about 15G's I bought...
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I was looking at the rear 15G I bought and on turbine intake side it has only 2 of the 3
holes tapped. I hope this isn't a mistake or something but there's three holes there to
hook the exhaust manifold to and only two are tapped...If the other one needs to be
tapped I can have the machine shop where I work do it.

Trevor James
96 R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech (HKS EVCIV@1.00 bar, Plugs@.034", Borla, K&N FIPK)

92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60 5.34 Gtech

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 20:21:51 1999
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        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Field research - oil pressure
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 1999 22:18:52 -0500
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In a previous message Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good for your
engine to
> be under load with low oil pressure.
>



Just yesterday I conversed with another list member regarding oil pressure.
We have both installed aftermarket oil pressure gauges and were comparing
our readings.  I noted the following:

Conditions:  Ambient temp = 45F, Mobil1 15W50, less that 500 miles old.

84 PSI at startup idle - cold engine.

After thorough warming (10+ miles of driving):
19-20 PSI at idle
46-48 PSI at 2000 RPM
70 PSI at 3000 RPM
80 PSI at 3600 RPM
88 PSI at 5500 RPM

Since 1600 and 1800 RPM were discussed today in the context of potentially
causing damage I went for another ride to get some more readings.  Again I
made sure the oil was up to operating temperature.
At 1600 RPM the oil pressure was 39 PSI, and at 1800 this increased to 42
PSI.  The car is a '95 R/T TT.  Please note that I am using a high viscosity
synthetic oil.  I recall that the readings were somewhat lower when I used a
10W30 synthetic, primarily at idle.

Draw your own conclusions.  I can tell you that I will continue to use 6th
gear while driving down the Interstate.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct  6 22:05:06 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Field research - oil pressure
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 00:04:16 -0500
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The biggest thing with oil supply and engine load, isn't so much the
pressure, but volume.  Most racers use LPHV (low pressure high volume) pumps
which may only provide 40-50psi of pressure, but still flow more oil than
most higher pressure pumps.  I also know that the HP loss with a LPHV pump
is different, I just can't remember whether it was more or less.  :-)
Either way I don't think the difference in HP was more than 1 HP.

-John Basol
'95 RT/TT

-----Original Message-----
From: Oskar [SMTP:swede@pclink.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 1999 10:19 PM
To: Ken Middaugh; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Field research - oil pressure

In a previous message Ken Middaugh wrote:
> Below 1800 RPM the oil pressure will fall and it is not good for
your
engine to
> be under load with low oil pressure.
>



Just yesterday I conversed with another list member regarding oil
pressure.
We have both installed aftermarket oil pressure gauges and were
comparing
our readings.  I noted the following:

Conditions:  Ambient temp = 45F, Mobil1 15W50, less that 500 miles
old.

84 PSI at startup idle - cold engine.

After thorough warming (10+ miles of driving):
19-20 PSI at idle
46-48 PSI at 2000 RPM
70 PSI at 3000 RPM
80 PSI at 3600 RPM
88 PSI at 5500 RPM

Since 1600 and 1800 RPM were discussed today in the context of
potentially
causing damage I went for another ride to get some more readings.
Again I
made sure the oil was up to operating temperature.
At 1600 RPM the oil pressure was 39 PSI, and at 1800 this increased
to 42
PSI.  The car is a '95 R/T TT.  Please note that I am using a high
viscosity
synthetic oil.  I recall that the readings were somewhat lower when
I used a
10W30 synthetic, primarily at idle.

Draw your own conclusions.  I can tell you that I will continue to
use 6th
gear while driving down the Interstate.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 01:26:50 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Air/Fuel Meter (pre-cats)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:22:43 +0200
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>OH!. so all non turbos and turbos have precats. i thought it was just
>turbos. i didn't know that. does this apply to the older 1st gen non turbos
>as well? do i have precats i could gut?

This made me thinking and my manual says that all V6 engines do have three
catalysts (at least in Europe). But I can't really say for sure as I haven't
seen an NA engine in real live. At least you'll have an O2 sensor before and
after the cat and when your car has precats then you have two O2 sensors for
each bank. Gutting the pre-catsis very beneficial for the turbos as the
turbines can spool more freely. Not really sure for the NAs as this may
reduce backpressure even more and some lower power may be lost but the upper
band will be better.

I wIll look more closely in the manual tonight.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 01:26:55 1999
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Reply-To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Sirius 3000GT Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about 15G's I bought...
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 10:25:37 +0200
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>I was looking at the rear 15G I bought and on turbine intake side it has
only 2 of the 3
>holes tapped. I hope this isn't a mistake or something but there's three
holes there to
>hook the exhaust manifold to and only two are tapped...If the other one
needs to be
>tapped I can have the machine shop where I work do it.

As far as I remember, there are two bolts that are screwed in and one is
used with a nut. I can check back tonight with my GT368 turbos lying around.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 08:38:52 1999
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Matt,

   It is probably a broken wire at the top of the stut tower.  I had
the same problem, but all I did was to re-seat the connectors for
each of the front struts, and the problem never came back.  Guess I
just had a dirty connection.
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors


Michael Booker wrote:
>
> My ECS lights are flashing, but both tour and sport lights are flashing
> at the same time. Does this indicate a gross malfunction? Can I replace
> the wiring harnesses? I suspect it may be the wiring, and I don't want
> to replace a whole strut if I don't have to.
>
> Matt
> #311
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N, and Magnecors
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 09:22:40 1999
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From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
To: "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 09:18:51 -0700
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Hello All,
I'm new to the group and would like to add some info to the collective (and
maybe also get some feed back).  I have a NA 94 3000GT.  Two weeks ago I
began to lose power and determined it was the clutch.   My estimate was
correct and after 117,600 miles my factory clutch was done.  I had it
replaced (~$530 parts and labor) and the mechanic (Precision Auto Care of
Woodland, CA) recommended a clutch made by "LUK".  I don't know much about
this clutch, which makes me a little leery.  I'd like to know if any one in
the group has had any experience with a "LUK" clutch.  I drove it last night
and this morning, I feel the clutch pedal has half the resistance force from
the original.  The clutch is working fine.

BTW While the trany was out (this was extra $) they replace the rear engine
seal and serviced the trany (I now have Redline Synthetic oil).

On another note does any one know of a good place to purchase a K&N FIPK?
 
Luis G. Interiano
Project Engineer
OEA Aerospace, Inc.
3530 Branscombe Rd.
Fairfield, CA 94533
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 09:39:18 1999
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From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work
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I just had about the same problem only they happened to find my tranny had leaked all the fluid out.  I bought a Kormex tranny and they installed a LUK clutch.  It does have half the resistance.  But I think that fades slightly seeing how I put 500 miles on mine and now it has a little more.  I put redline mt90 in tranny and shockproof in tc.  it seems to help the shifting a lot.  The clutch works fine though, and it seems to have a bit better grip than stock.  my clutch ran about the same as yours, I also bought a K&N from summit for 159.  it installed in about an hour.  Hope this helps.

Ryan
92RT/TT
K&N FIPK
Accel wires
RF plugs @ .034
soon a bit more boost!

MCSE/ASE     

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 09:47:13 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cluctch / Trany work
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Luis

I got mine from www.dynamicracing1.com and installed it myself.  It's dirt
simple to put on with the exception for the 4 screws that hold on the mass
air sensor to the original air-intake bottom half.  Granted I have a '95,
and it was probably just a problem with my specific vehicle due to the fact
that the original nuts were screwed on too tightly.  But there's also a
wonderful design flaw with the ways these screw are held in place.  Normally
you'd think that to hold two piecs of material together you'd use regular
screws with heads on them and nuts (so you can get a grip on the head of the
screw with some pliars or something).  Well, some genius who was smokin' too
much crack at the time decided to make the screws headless, and put this 2
mm flat, rectangular bar on the end, and then put braces on either side of
the bar on the airintake part to provide the counter-torque for when you
turn the nut.  This would've worked ok, except for the fact that the braces
on the air-intake that provide the counter-torque were made of plastic
instead of metal.  So hence when I turned the nut (that was way to tight
because I think Titan himself came down and tightened them originally), the
plate on the end turned and ripped right through the plastic braces (on all
4 screws).  So now I have this wonderful long screw with the worlds tightest
nut on it, just spinning in place with no head on the screw to put some
vice-grips on.  I had to rip the plastic apart on the bottom half of the
original air-intake (thus destroying it  into shreds) so I could get at this
tiny 2mm plate to attempt to get some type of grip on it so I could get
these damn screws off.  Basically turning what should've been a 30 -60
minute job into like 4 hours filled with lots of explicatives :).

anyways, sorry for the story, but it is funny when I look back at it :).
But try www.dynamicracing1.com
or www.gtpro.com if they're out of stock :).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 09:49:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 12:48:43 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: No Boost! Low rpm Smoke, Help!
To: xwing@execpc.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message dated 10/6/99 2:26:05 PM Central Daylight Time, xwing@execpc.com
writes:

<< Ahmed, you need to check the back turbo compressor side, and if
not bad, then I'd suggest you need to REMOVE front turbo(could be that one
if the not-visible turbine wheel "came off") and then the
back turbo (since it is harder, do it LAST) to see which is the
problem...ugh.  Let us know!

Jack Tertadian >>

I plan on doing that this Tuesday.....not looking forward to this task of
getting into the turobs; I will start with checking both wastegates first;
then the front turbo next and then finally the rear turbo.  

I would like to thank everyone who has given me advice on this subject; I
knew disconnecting the battery would not do anything.....but I did it anyway
(I'm praying for anything here)....will now look into the wastegates ( I
believe one of the wastegates must be stuck!!  at least I hope so!!).....then
finally I will check both turbos, front first then the rear one. 

Thanks again, everyone.

Ahmed "AL-Depressioso AL-Crazy" 
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 09:57:00 1999
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Guys, as far as I know, the 2nd gen DSM K&N FIPK has a bigger filter and fits
perfectly. Price is below $100. It's maybe round and not oval but who cares.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 10:40:52 1999
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"R.G." wrote:
>
> >I am really interested in the exhaust manifold.  They really did a nice job
> >on it.  I am not versed enough in turbos to compare the HK$ ones they
> >installed to say, 17g's.  Anyone know how they compare?  Also I cannot
> >tell but it does not look like they are using a MAS.  Either that or it
> >is under the headlight.
>
> I was told that this is a custom made header design and nothing that will be
> produced in a larger series. Of course if we order 50 or so .... They
> installed three different turbos and the largest were comparable to 20Gs but
> dunno the others. For the fuel part I thought that they are using a VPC
> (i.e. no MAs nor MAF). Don't have the turbo mag (too much wrong stuff in
> there) so I can't see the pics.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT

It says they are using GT2835 turbos pushing 1.7 bar through a custom
intercooler (singular).  Fuel system upgrades include a Skyline pump and
an HKS F-Con V controller which allows RPM-based tuning.  Besides
exhaust, nothing else was mentioned - no internal work.  How are they
able to reliably push 25psi with only bolt ons?  I guess it can't be
doing this on pump gas...

I'd also like to know more about the "stock" Mitsu-Brembo SIX piston
calipers and slotted rotors!  Also interesting that the hood has vents,
while it sure looks like they're running the intake down to the stock
intercooler mounting location... (Mike's right that the air metering
system is hidden from view in the picture)

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 13:01:20 1999
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> It says they are using GT2835 turbos pushing 1.7 bar through a custom
> intercooler (singular).  Fuel system upgrades include a Skyline pump and
> an HKS F-Con V controller which allows RPM-based tuning.  Besides
> exhaust, nothing else was mentioned - no internal work.  How are they
> able to reliably push 25psi with only bolt ons?  I guess it can't be
> doing this on pump gas...

No definitely not and my source told that the internals have been made.
Rods, pistons and TotalSeals. The pistons are a little higher and increase
compression a little.

> I'd also like to know more about the "stock" Mitsu-Brembo SIX piston
> calipers and slotted rotors!

As always, they have a lot of wrong stuff in their articles. The biggest
"stock" brakes are the ones from the WRC Rally car and they are not stock as
the stuff is comming directly from Brembo (four pot calipers and rotors).
Ralliart Germany doesn't know anything about a 6-pot caliper as this would
be too much for the axles of the light EVO.

> while it sure looks like they're running the intake down to the stock
> intercooler mounting location... (Mike's right that the air metering
> system is hidden from view in the picture)

Again, a VPC or F-Con does NOT use air metering. This is why a simple duct
from the front to the intake can be made :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 13:10:55 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: AWD transfer case info  (very long)
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some more tidbits for the collective.. 

I ordered a rebuilt transfer case from MD Auto yesterday..  I was quoted
the same price ($850) as what was in Kens post below..  I then told him
about our wonderful list and the deals we had with other dealers and
distributors, and asked if he'd be able to cut us some slack..  success!
He gave me $50 off so the transfer case ended up at $800 + $25 for
shipping + $50 core charge = $875 to my door!  (note: the core charge in
the post below is incorrect, or they made an awful big change to it since
then) 

It's supposed to be here tomorrow..  I can hardly control myself!  :::)))

ok, so it's not exactly a bargain, and if your case isn't damaged, you can
certainly get the parts to rebuild it much cheaper..  but it seemed to be
the best deal around.. 

here's all the info I came up with in my research (keep in mind unless
noted that these quotes were all for 2nd gen cast iron transfer cases for
6 speed transmissions):

MD Auto   
619-390-0450, in San Diego  
$ 800.00 rebuilt with 1 year unlimited mileage warranty
(make sure you mention the list discount for this price! $50 core!)

Tallahassee Mitsu  
1-888-825-5648
$ 1836.33  list , $ 1469.06 discount price
(this month only -October 99- they are selling for $1280!!!  new!) <<<<------

Mag Auto (Chris)
1-800-229-1001
$ 1471.00  (claimed this is new)

Kormex
1-800-429-5464
$ 650 (5 speed), $1100 (6 speed)

M&S Recycling
1-800-695-4700
$ 900 (used, not rebuilt, 6 month warranty)

Standard Transmission
1-800-783-8726
$ 75 for bearing and seal kit   (I considered replacing the damaged pieces
of my case which they quoted at $25 for the cover plate, and $150 for the
section of case that bolts to the transmission..  I got a quote on a used
complete transfer case, but I can't seem to find it anywhere..)

that's I have for now..  If I find something I left out, I'll post an
update..  I also put this info on my webpage if anyone needs it it the
future..  http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt

I'm including a couple previous posts so more info is compiled in one
post..  I hope Ken and Jack won't mind..   sorry for the length..  I did
trim out the mail headers to save some space..  posts are separated by my
notes in [ ].. 

Dave
95 Black (2WD soon to be AWD again!) VR4

---------------------

[Ken Middaugh gave me this info:]


MD Auto rebuilds Getrags & transfer cases.  They also sell parts...

Good luck,
Ken

-----INCLUDE--------

Anyway I just called MD Auto, 619-390-0450, in San Diego to follow up
with recent Getrag questions floating around.  I spoke with Mike for at
least 20 minutes and he is very friendly and helpful.  MD Auto as you
recall sells rebuilt Getrag transmissions and transfer cases and also
sells some parts.

5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case      $2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny      $2295
rebuilt transfer case           $850
(refundable) core charge        $500

Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage warranty. 

Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are replaced.  Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a source in Europe.  He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll tell you that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink).  He uses them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his source will stop providing him
access.  New bearings, shaft, transfer unit spool, and seals are used,
see below. 

There is no problem swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft.  Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape than the small shafts.  He said this is because
the small shaft's 18 splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines wear more.  ???

His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds.  Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core.  He doesn't rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.

Now he also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than OEM  $225
Shafts, OEM quality             $695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality    $695 (double ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case  $175

He also sells used gears & housings. 

I asked him about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts.  He
didn't sound too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.

Mike is a Corvette man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend of his had Getrag problems.  He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over $7K.

--------------------

[I grabbed this post from Jack T. (xwing) on the starnet list:]

>From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
>Reply-To: xwing@execpc.com
>To: stealth@starnet.net
>Subject: Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild Sources
>Date: Thu, 23 Sep 1999 20:01:43 -0500
>
>Note, Norman Mitsu is closed.
>Jack Tertadian

Subject: Team3S: Trans-XferCase Part/Rebuild Sources

TRANSAXLE / TRANSFER CASE / PARTS / REBUILD SOURCE
Summary:

1)  Try Tallahassee Mitsu  1888-825-5648, say you are on 3S Internet list for
like 25% discount and free ship for over $50
2)  Rockland Mitsu 1914-353-2100  Say internet/3SI member  "Terry"
3)  Norco Mitsu     1888-689-1788       "    "          "                "Bill"
4)  Lou Fusz Mitsu 1800-528-2525       "    "          "                "Greg or Marty"
5)  Norman Mitsu   1800-800-0853      "    "          "     25% off, free ship over $400

6)  MAG auto        1800-229-1001      I think these are used only?
7)  Kormex Trans Parts  1800-429-5464 "Frank Martin"  Has aftermarket
hardened output shafts for trans and other parts, do rebuilds.
8)  East Street Auto  1901-774-5374  "Jim"  I think they have ?stock output
shafts for $400, not sure here
9)  Southern Gear  1770-435-1461      Trans Rebuilders in Georgia, USA;
have done many of them, would be between them and Kormex if I had to
have rebuild based on info I have NOW.
10)  Max Mayants at "GTR Motorsports"   email NYMaxxNY@aol.com,
gets new transaxle bearing kits, output shaft for $430; was planning to
recoat the old/used synchro ring with new brass (not a bad idea) though
not the only part that wears (the gear face teeth and blocker rings also have
teeth that wear, but if can make new brasscoated rings that is one more part
being made!)  I don't have phone #, if you get it write back;  he said back in
May 99 he was opening up large shop for cars like ours.

When you find cheapest, PLEASE write back (could use REPLY to this so all
numbers reprinted but let us know cheapest so all info is in one message, or if
any have gone out of service...I try to keep abreast of the latest/cheapest this
way), and will try to send message like this occasionally for latest summary
etc.

Jack Tertadian

millebi@kw.igs.net wrote:

> I need new transfer case; mine blew; oil
> everywhere, piece of case missing. What is reasonable
> price for 1991 Stealth TT transfer case?   Dealer price
> $2195.00 +3.8 hours = (USD) $1463.00 = $1653.33.
> reply to "Bill_Miller@manulife.com"
> Bill  91 TT "Old Red"
------------------------------

end of rediculously long post....

Dave
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 13:20:32 1999
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From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
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Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 16:19:39 -0400
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Hi Everyone,

I took the car to the mechanic and as near as he could tell the noise is the throwout bearing, or something related to the clutch. He said not to worry about it, but to replace it when its time to do the clutch.

Which brings me to a question: which is your favorite aftermarket clutch?

Also, anyone got a line on functional hood scoops to replace the hood blisters? The only ones I could find were from BOZZ @ $425! This seems like quite a bit of money for scoops made out of fiberglass. Perhaps if we could get enough people from the group interested we could have scoop custom made out of carbon fiber - seems to me I recall that there is a company doing this somewhere. Anyone interested?

Kevin

3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 13:27:20 1999
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From: Matt A Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update
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> I took the car to the mechanic and as near as he could tell
> the noise is the throwout bearing, or something related to
> the clutch. He said not to worry about it, but to replace it
> when its time to do the clutch.

Depending on how many miles are on your car, you might want to consider doing the clutch sooner rather than later.  As the throwout bearing gets worse it'll put more pressure on the shaft that it rides on and may start to wear grooves (or worse) in it.  Of course, with the Getrag trannies you can't get parts so you'd be looking at getting a new tranny.  :-(

-Matt
95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 13:33:10 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: upper stress bars?
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:59:55 -0500
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I just called my performance shop on the sway bars (forgot to yesterday, got
too busy :(.  He used to get them from Suspension Techniques, but checked
the latest catalog and saw that they weren't listed anymore.  So he called
and it seems they stoped making them for the 3000's :(.  He said he's going
to check on some direct import stuff from Japan and a few other sources, so
if he finds anything I'll let ya'll know :).



Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 13:33:56 1999
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From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 92 VR4 Noise/Rattle Update
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I am so sure this has been done, but just and only just because I thought for sure this had been done on mine I am going to post this reply.  Check the Tranny fluid level.  I had this noise.  I was told it was throwout bearing, I figured they had done more than just listen.  I was told to replace it when the clutch needed it.  In the meantime my tranny developed a leak, or it had one the whole time, and decided to shell itself.  Which sucked because I already had the clutch bought.  Please check this. Trust me it might not be the throwout bearing.  Also I had a LUK clutch installed.  Seems to have a little more bite than stock.  I was told Centerforce doesn't make one for our cars and I wish I had persisted a little more.

MCSE/ASE     

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 14:06:22 1999
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Thanks for the advice. Actually this makes sense since the noise goes away 1. when the car gets warm and 2. when I push in the clutch (ie disengage the gears). Doesn't the throwout bearing usually make noise when the clutch is engaged and not the reverse?

Kevin

3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 15:02:58 1999
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From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
To: "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Starter & Spark Plug Question
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 14:59:08 -0700
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Gentlemen,
I had my clutch replaced yesterday and the minute I started it on the lot it
made a screeching noise.  The noise only occurs when I start the car.  Are
our cars prone to faulty starters or is it something that goes away as the
clutch gets worn in?  My car does have 117,000 miles on it, I suppose it
could be normal wear.

The second part of my post:
While I was at the mechanics shop, I asked about changing the plugs (NGK
silver platinum) and they quoted me $15.00 a plug.  I find this price very
excessive can any one explain why our plugs are so @#$#$%% expensive?  Is
there a better price with some other vendor?

Luis G. Interiano
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 19:09:57 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>,
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Cc: <stealth@starnet.dot.com>
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I have a '95 VR-4, and would love to have a bar between the front
strur towers, but after looking under the hood with this in mind I don't
see where one would fit.  Does anyone know if such an item exists?
Has anyone seen or heard of one?
Regards, ptg

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 20:24:33 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Back-Up Light Switch
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 22:19:36 -0500
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All-
Does anybody know how to get at the back-up light
switch?  Since I had a trans axel change (under
warranty), the back-up lights haven't worked.  The
fuse is good.  The warranty has expired, but I think
it should be covered since it happened while warranty
repairs were being made.  Right?
Regards,
ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 21:46:07 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Back-Up Light Switch
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 23:49:29 -0500
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As you are standing over the right front fender, find the transmission and
then the shift linkage.

Move toward the passenger front side of the transmission. You will find a
connector and socket for the reverse lights.  Plug the lose connector in the
socket and you'll be set.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Paul T. Golley
Sent: Thursday, October 07, 1999 10:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: Back-Up Light Switch

All-
Does anybody know how to get at the back-up light
switch?  Since I had a trans axel change (under
warranty), the back-up lights haven't worked.  The
fuse is good.  The warranty has expired, but I think
it should be covered since it happened while warranty
repairs were being made.  Right?
Regards,
ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct  7 22:28:11 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: upper stress bars?
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 1999 22:28:15 -0700
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The Bozz Speed car of Japan has strut tower braces which run to the
firewall.  With a little rearranging of the cluttered mess on the firewall,
such a system would not only be feasible, but would likely perform extremely
well.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I have a '95 VR-4, and would love to have a bar between the front
> strur towers, but after looking under the hood with this in mind I don't
> see where one would fit.  Does anyone know if such an item exists?
> Has anyone seen or heard of one?
> Regards, ptg

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 07:28:44 1999
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From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
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Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 10:28:12 -0400
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Further noise/rattle update
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Sorry to go on and on about this, but everyone has been most helpful...

After seeing the posts yesterday I got worried about the trans fluid being low. So I took the car in and had the fluid checked. It was full, but the mechanic said it was pretty burnt up (it was supposedly changed in July with BG Synchro fluid - I can only assume the shop that worked on the car 'forgot' to do the fluid change - I hope they didn't forget anything else since they changed the timing belt, tensioner and waterpump as well!). The transfer case fluid was fine. I had him replace the fluid with new synthetic. The trans now shift notchier, but more precisely.

Of course the noise was still there this morning. It would seem that the concensus at this point is that it is either the trans itself or the throwout bearing or something related to the clutch.

Questions:
1. Will the noisy throwout bearing wreck the trans? Seems to be some difference of opinion on this.
2. What are the signs that the trans is giving up the ghost? Other than the morning rattle, there is a slight, almost imperceptable whine in second gear.
3. What is the beefed up Kormex trans and where can I get one and at what cost?
4. Can good mechanic check the timing belt to see if it was replaced properly w/o taking apart the engine to an expensive degree?

5. Lastly (and I promise to shut up after this), can anyone recommend a great mechanic in the Boston area?

Thanks again
Kevin

3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 08:52:58 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 08:52:27 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
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Hi Kevin,


> After seeing the posts yesterday I got worried about the trans fluid being low. So I took the car in and had the fluid checked. It was full, but the mechanic said it was pretty burnt up (it was supposedly changed in July with BG Synchro fluid - I can only assume the shop that worked on the car 'forgot' to do the fluid change - I hope they didn't forget anything else since they changed the timing belt, tensioner and waterpump as well!). The transfer case fluid was fine. I had him replace the fluid with new synthetic. The trans now shift notchier, but more precisely.
>
> Of course the noise was still there this morning. It would seem that the concensus at this point is that it is either the trans itself or the throwout bearing or something related to the clutch.
>

Someone the other day posted an exceptional description of this common problem.
I looked for it but I guess I already deleted it.  

My opionion is that this rattling noise is caused by one or more bearings in the
tranny, not the throw-out (clutch release) bearing.  I have had the exact same
noise for 30K miles and it has not become any worse.  However the noise went
completely away once when I replaced the tranny fluid (Redline MT-90 GL4) and
left the car jacked up overnight.  My guess is that being jacked up for an
extended amount of time thoroughly saturated the offending bearing.
Unfortunately it was temporary and the noise returned after a couple of days.

> Questions:
snip
> 3. What is the beefed up Kormex trans and where can I get one and at what cost?


MD Auto sells rebuilt Getrag tranny's and transfer cases.  See the included post
below.

I don't know if MD truely has access to new synchros though.  I do know that
they were NOT interested in buying any synchro sets in Jack's latest Getrag
purchase.

Good luck,
Ken

======== INCLUDE ========

Anyway I just called MD Auto, 619-390-0450, in San Diego to follow up
with recent Getrag questions floating around.  I spoke with Mike for at
least 20 minutes and he is very friendly and helpful.  MD Auto as you
recall sells rebuilt Getrag transmissions and transfer cases and also
sells some parts.

5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny & rebuilt transfer case      $2695
5 or 6 spd. rebuilt tranny      $2295
rebuilt transfer case           $850
(refundable) core charge        $500

Tranny & transfer case have 12 month unlimited milage warranty. 

Only gears and synchros that are out of spec are replaced.  Yes he has
access to NEW SYNCHROS from a source in Europe.  He will not publically
confirm his source (but I'll tell you that it is in a country that
starts with "G" - wink, wink).  He uses them in his rebuilds but he will
NOT SELL SYNCHROS for fear that his source will stop providing him
access.  New bearings, shaft, transfer unit spool, and seals are used,
see below. 

There is no problem swapping a 5 for a 6 speed or a small shaft 5 spd
for a large shaft.  Interestingly, he said that the large shaft splines
come back in worse shape than the small shafts.  He said this is because
the small shaft's 18 splines are wider than the large shafts 25 splines,
so the thiner 25 splines wear more.  ???

His current stock is 1 6 spd. and 12 5 speeds.  Normally, you buy a
rebuilt and send him your old core.  He doesn't rebuild "your" tranny &
transfer case, he just swaps them.

Now he also sells some parts:
Bearings, Timken from France, 8 total, better than OEM  $225
Shafts, OEM quality             $695 (ouch!)
Transfer spools, OEM quality    $695 (double ouch!)
OEM seals (6 total) for tranny & transfer case  $175

He also sells used gears & housings. 

I asked him about upgrading or using better than OEM quality parts.  He
didn't sound too optimistic from his "small shop" point of view.

Mike is a Corvette man who began his affiliation with 3000GT/Stealth AWD
trannys when a friend of his had Getrag problems.  He also mentioned
that the ZF tranny's in the Vette also have no parts availability and
they cost over $7K.

====== END ======
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 13:54:45 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 22:53:12 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question
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I got the Greddy Type S BOV (well more a BPV) today and during the installation
I found myself in saying ... "why the heck does the thing have to vacuum ports"
?? I took the thing apart (yes, I take everything apart to find out what's
inside, hehe) and I noticed that the second port goes to the intake side of the
valve. But I just don't know what hose I should connect to the port. Any ideas
??

Thanks,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 14:08:12 1999
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From: "Owens, Trent L." <Trent.Owens@destia.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Question..
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 16:08:06 -0500
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Will TDO6 turbos bolt on to our cars?  If its not a direct bolt on would it
be possible for an adapter to be fabricated to mate it?

Feel free to e-mail me privately unless you feel its beneficial to the list.

Thanks for your help!

Trent
'95 RT TT 



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 16:31:31 1999
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Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 18:32:22 -0500
From: Trevor James <trevorlj@feist.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question
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I looked at the Japanese instructions and it seems to me that the 90 degree port on the
purple anodized section needs to be hooked up to the plenum. I think the other one might
make a good source for current atmospheric pressure.

Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon

"R.G." wrote:

> I got the Greddy Type S BOV (well more a BPV) today and during the installation
> I found myself in saying ... "why the heck does the thing have to vacuum ports"
> ?? I took the thing apart (yes, I take everything apart to find out what's
> inside, hehe) and I noticed that the second port goes to the intake side of the
> valve. But I just don't know what hose I should connect to the port. Any ideas
> ??
>
> Thanks,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 18:09:07 1999
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A while back someone said they bought a black panther battery. I was
wondering if that person was still on the list. I am looking for
feedback on the performance of the battery. How's it holding up, do you
ever have problems starting the car, does it hold a charge if left to
sit for a couple weeks.... stuff like that.

I need a new battery, and was thinking of getting one because of the
size. Jegs carries them now under the name "Odyssey" (page 92 in the new
catalog). 150 for the small one and 200 for the big one. I would
appreciate any real world feedback I can get before buying that
expensive of a battery.

Thanks
Todd
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 18:23:39 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <Brian@GTPRO.COM>
Subject: Team3S: Carbon Fiber hood
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 20:26:54 -0500
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Today I received my Carbon Fiber hood from Brian at GT- Pro.


While the finish is not as perfect as the factory hood, it's the best damn
aftermarket body part I have ever seen.  I was very pleasantly surprised.
I'd suspect a nice primer coat and block sanding and the hood will be ready
for paint work.  No more work than an OEM hood would require.


Brian originally agreed to ship the hood COD, after the shipper said that
COD was an additional 45.00, he just shipped it with the amount due.(I'll be
mailing him a check)   That's pretty good customer service in my book.

I don't have fitment information yet, as I have not tried putting it on the
car.  I'll post those details later.

With the good, I feel I must say the bad.  The hood arrived about 8-10 days
late from the original expected date.   If any of you have been in the
aftermarket automotive business, this is a very common problem.  Brian
stayed on top of the problem and kept me posted as to the exact whereabouts
of the hood.  Again, with the quality of the hood,  I am very pleased and
will continue to do business with GT-Pro.

More information can be found at: www.gtpro.com
And Email Brian at:  brian@gtpro.com

Pictures of the hood can be found on the above site also.



Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 18:25:11 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RPS Clutch Update.
Date: Fri, 8 Oct 1999 20:28:53 -0500
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Okay, those of you interested in the Turbo Carbon Clutch.


August 27 I wrote a letter and shipped my defective TCC to Rob at RPS.


I followed up September ~30th.   They had no history of the letter I
enclosed,  Rob had no recollection of my check he promised  (for my
troubles) and seemed to have no real idea of the entire conversation we had
had a month prior.

Rob and I had agreed to have the clutch and a check sent to me with in a
week of the time he received the clutch.    We also agreed to have the
clutch checked for proper pressure and send me a new one, not a rebuilt.  It
read ~2700lbs on the pressure plate.  The new/other clutches he has read
~2950.   He had my old pressure plate boxed up and ready to send to me,
knowing that it was over 200lbs lighter than the other clutches.

As it stands, the clutch is on its way, and will be here the 12th.    I am
fully expecting to see my old pressure plate, with no check enclosed.  I
will post details when I receive the clutch.

I am still very unhappy, and will never use/recommend or purchase a RPS
clutch again.

With that being said, does anyone want to purchase a new RPS turbo carbon
claw clutch?  I'll sell it at the best price the "Group buy saw"   I'll even
ship it for that price.



Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct  8 20:39:12 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message dated 10/8/99 7:09:40 PM Mountain Daylight Time,
Q11981@email.mot.com writes:

<< A while back someone said they bought a black panther battery. I was
wondering if that person was still on the list. I am looking for
feedback on the performance of the battery. How's it holding up, do you
ever have problems starting the car, does it hold a charge if left to
sit for a couple weeks.... stuff like that.

I need a new battery, and was thinking of getting one because of the
size. Jegs carries them now under the name "Odyssey" (page 92 in the new
catalog). 150 for the small one and 200 for the big one. I would
appreciate any real world feedback I can get before buying that
expensive of a battery.
  >>

I installed the smaller Black Panther Preditor 2 - 3 years ago and it has
worked great.  Not a speck of corrosion and starts real good after sitting
for 2 - 3 weeks. I got the optional hold down clamp and picked up a couple of
J bolts at Pep Boys and it was a bolt in.  If you don't get the clamp you
will need to fabricate something. It is real light and opens up the sight
lines down to the clutch slave cylinder area.

Dennis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 01:32:09 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "stealth" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 10:13:40 +0200
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I recently installed a red-top Optima battery. It is also smaller than the
original one and it works very well. With two small blocks of wood I was
able to use the same brackets to hold it in place. I'm very happy with it
and the new series is even stronger but the same price as before (850 old,
1050 new)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 01:32:10 1999
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References: <F99F3F7C7049D211BC700008C7B1F0900318D223@texas.econophone.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Question..
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 10:20:49 +0200
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I for myself would say that TD06 only stands for the compressor wheel
housing type and doesn't say what is on the turbine side. But I may be
wrong. For the comrpessor wheel housing, it is important the front turbo has
an angeled outlet like the stock TD04 housing. Otherwise it may touch the
motor mount in the front or anything else must be done differently.

For the exhaust manifold, all hybrid turbos with the same turbine housing
fit our cars and are direct bolt ons. I know of others that need other oil
return lines due to their design. An adapter cannot be made as space is a
luxury we just don't have :(

Hope this helps a little,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

> Will TDO6 turbos bolt on to our cars?  If its not a direct bolt on would
it
> be possible for an adapter to be fabricated to mate it?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 11:14:10 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Octane Boost
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 12:10:02 -0600
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Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 dollars a pop?  I have been using =
the 104+ brand and tried the NOS brand with my fill-up last night.  I =
apologize for "Off-Topic" chatter, but didn't want 300 responses from =
the starnet list.

Thanks, Cory
96 R/T TT

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<DIV><FONT face=3D"Zurich BT">Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 =
dollars a=20
pop?&nbsp; I have been using the 104+ brand and tried the NOS brand with =
my=20
fill-up last night.&nbsp; I apologize for "Off-Topic" chatter, but =
didn't want=20
300 responses from the starnet list.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks, Cory</DIV>
<DIV>96 R/T TT</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 12:38:46 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Octane Boost
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 21:36:06 +0200
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I used some of the boosters Jim brougth me down during my test runs. But I
haven't seen any lowering in knock. If a brand claims to increase 2 points
people on the DSM list found out that this probably means 0.x octane points.
Therefore if you run with 93 octane and use a booster that increases 7
points you are getting only 93.7 octane.

In my point of view it is ok for the trakc if no high octane fuel is
available but this stuff has so many other things in it that I'd say not
using over the long term.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

PS: Please switch off HTML as the mail server doesn't like the format.
Thanks.

> Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 dollars a pop?  I have been using the
104+ brand
> and tried the NOS brand with my fill-up last night.  I apologize for
"Off-Topic" chatter, but
> didn't want 300 responses from the starnet list.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 13:28:46 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Octane Boost
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 13:28:26 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: CEskelsen <cesk@redrock.net>
Are octane boosters worth the 3 to 7 dollars a pop?  I have been
using the 104+ brand and tried the NOS brand with my fill-up last
night.  I apologize for "Off-Topic" chatter, but didn't want 300
responses from the starnet list.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>


The 'octane boost' products simply make your current gas 'fire' at a
later point in the combustion cycle.  AFAIK, there are 'good' ways
and 'bad' ways to do this, but I don't know enough to venture what
they are.  I've just been told (some time ago) to stay away from
them in high performance engines...  But there could be newer
products that are harmless...

Best,

Forrest



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 14:48:51 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 14:44:31 -0700
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> I recently installed a red-top Optima battery. It is also smaller than the
> original one and it works very well. With two small blocks of wood I was
> able to use the same brackets to hold it in place. I'm very happy with it
> and the new series is even stronger but the same price as before (850 old,
> 1050 new)
===============================================

850 vs. 1050 What ????? ---- I sure as hell hope your talking Russian
Rubles or Zambia Kwachas'.


    Jim berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 15:17:15 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "stealth" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <37FE3686.2B5C4604@email.mot.com> <005601bf1230$8e5f3e80$12c0e6c2@roger> <002b01bf129f$7842b180$198d0818@msnv1.occa.home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 00:14:49 +0200
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> 850 vs. 1050 What ????? ---- I sure as hell hope your talking Russian
> Rubles or Zambia Kwachas'.

Part No. of course !

It's probably cheaper than the panter and it is spiral cell gel battery. The
old style was able to deliver 850 Amps for a short time !

// Roger


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 16:15:48 1999
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References: <000801bf1281$825430e0$930bc5d1@p9u2n5>
Subject: Team3S: Ignition testing update
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 01:13:30 +0200
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Some weeks ago I got a "New Volt" ignition amplifier from B&M for free to
test it on my car. The aim was/is to eliminate the need of regapping the
plugs under high boost. Even more it should add more power to the existing
system to burn the additional fuel we give.

Unfortunately, even with a gap of 0.032 the hesitation around 5000 and up is
still noticeable as well as measurable and is showed on the dyno slip. The
New Volt simply was connected into the harness going to the coils and
increases the voltage from 12 to 20V. Even more, the current sent through
the coils can reach 2 Amps per fire compared to about 0.05 Amps normally.

The results were ... zero. I felt the hesitation was lower but a second run
without the box gave the same result and therefore the box did nothing.
Therefore the increased voltage and current (equals power in watt) didn't
increased the energy in the coils.

At the beginning, Magnecor was blamed for the comparable high resistance of
the wires. But Magnecore assured me that they can deliver everything to the
plug what the B&M is able to deliver but who know for sure ! As I do not
have set of any other manufacturer handy I may believe them. Later the fuel
system was blamed to be the problem as the power always came back after a
few hundered rpm and an ignition problem may stay. I was told this is a fuel
starvation but changing the amount of fuel with the AFC did not changed
anything. Then I was told the fuel pump may loose pressure but I already
installed a larger Denso pump and if this woudl be a problem, I'm sure it
will even raise at higher rpm.

During the many conversations with the development manager at B&M I
mentioned that I feel the power transistors that switch and activate the
coils may limit the current that can be drawn by the coils. Finally B&M came
up with the same assumption and decided to check their design. I then have
drawn a schematic diagram that provides a very simply bolt-on solution to
the existing ignition system but I've just forgot anything about power
transistors :-( But B&M and I are working on that. The final solution may
consists of the universal B&M New Volt and a small additional 3S specific
box that is able to deliver the necessary power. Maybe only this little box
will solve many problems and cost would be very little. Often the easiest
solution are the best one ... but we'll see.

During the daily driving tests I started to notice the tach was bouncing
with the NV installed. This means that running on the autobahn at 3000 the
tach immediatly jumped to 3200 and back to 3000. Then everything was ok for
some monites and then within several seconds it jumped between 2800, 3000
and 3200. Also it never happend above 3500. Looking at the schematic
diagrams I noticed that there is another el. element together with the power
transistors in the same plug (located below the coil pack). It seems that
increasing the voltage saturates this gate and results in the jumping tach
as the output signal was out of its range. Disconnecting the NV helped. B&M
is now installign a better filter on the outlet as they think the switching
frequency of the voltage regulator may also be responsible for the problem.

Ok, I may summarize everything: We are in the middle of developing an easy
but more powerful ignition for our cars. This does not anything to the
timing but it should increase the power to the plugs. The result will be the
benefit of running plugs gapped to 0.045 with enough energy for a fast
travel of the spark. Increasing bosot and fuel results in a higher
electrical resistance in the plug gap and therefore spark travels slower.
This is why we have to regap them on higher boost, but the drawback is a
weaker idle, lower mileage and .. less power out of the fuel because less
fuel can be burnt. The B&M New Volt increased voltage but the stock system
is not able to benefit of it so no gain was found. I t even added a light
problem but a solution is not far. I hope to be able to test a solution in
the next weeks.

Anyone who has good experience in fast switching power transistors please
speak up ;-)

More soon...
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 18:40:24 1999
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From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Ignition testing update
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 20:45:03 -0500
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This is not surprising.  In the November 1999 issue of Sport Compact Car
magazine, Road Race Engineering in California tested a New Volt on an Eagle
Talon, which has a very similar ignition to our own.  They didn't publish
any dyno charts, but said that it picked up a little power (on the dyno) in
the mid RPM range but lost power in the high range.  They attributed it to a
faulty unit or incompatibility with the Eclipse's ignition system and will
try again in the future.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 1999 6:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: Ignition testing update


> The results were ... zero. I felt the hesitation was lower but a second
run
> without the box gave the same result and therefore the box did nothing.
> Therefore the increased voltage and current (equals power in watt) didn't
> increased the energy in the coils.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 23:11:08 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
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Subject: Team3S: BOV
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Please recommend an aftermarket BOV.  I'm considering a Blitz.

Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct  9 23:32:52 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 01:34:00 -0500
Subject: Team3S: HKS Sponges Cleaning Report
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Gentlemen:

All this talk of how poorly the HKS filters performed on the test page
had me wondering.  I've even asked a few colleagues what they felt about
switching from the HKS Dual Mega Flow and obtaining a paper filter FIPK.
Here's my findings....

I installed the HKS in February, on Sunday whence the temperature stayed
above 50 for an hour (not often here in sunny, warm, subtropical
Wisconsin).  I opted for the purple filters, strictly because I didn't
like the green.  ;-)

I was figuring on replacing them in one year's time, but again, all the
talk, I found myself taking them apart yesterday morning.  I was amazed
to find NOTHING on the inner workings of the unit.  I even tried a clean
rag, paper towel, and facial tissue.  NADA.

I washed the sponges with Dawn (no, not her, the dishwahsing liquid), and
God blessed us with 75 and sunny day here.  They were dry real fast.  I
let them lay out all afternoon, to be sure, as a true sun worshipper
shall.

They went back in fine, and to my surprise, I felt much of the original
coating afterwards, and coved them slightly engine oil as a fellow
colleague indicated HKS recommended.  They are back in now.

Observations:  I have the older style unit.  Where the "clamps" or clips
are reflected a dirt band that did not come out with wahsing, but only
color wise.   Inspection in the sun showed equal pores across the entire
sponge.  Don't try this at home.  Beyond that, they went back in almost
easier than when new.  Not as pristine, but I feel this will be more than
adequate until next spring whence I fork over the $40 for the new ones.

My cleaner 2hp.

Hope you're all having a good weekend, best regards, and Hakuna Mattata,

Scott
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 04:22:36 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> Please recommend an aftermarket BOV.  I'm considering a Blitz.

I just installed a Greddy Type S BOV. Together with the 1st gen DSM flange the
thing is a simply replacement for the stock valve and also vents back to the
intake. The sound is very noticeable (not annoying) with an aftermarket filter
installed. The problematic adjusting is no issue as it does vent back and the
stumble noticed with other BOV that vents to the atmosphere is not there. I can
recommend it as it works perfect :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 07:27:49 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Greddy Turbo exhaust manifold
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Trust power in Japan has them listed !!

http://www.trust-power.com/search/mitsubishi/gto.html

But price is about $2000 :((

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 10:20:02 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: black panter battery question
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 12:19:36 CDT
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Hey Todd,

Myself and Matt Jannusch are the ones with the black panther batteries.  We
used them so we would have room to mount our water injection tanks.  I have
some pictures at:

http://mn3s.org/wi3.jpg
http://mn3s.org/wi4.jpg
http://mn3s.org/wi5.jpg

I believe Jegs carries both Odessey and Black Panther.  I'm sure you'll get
a better price at Jegs, then where I got mine from.  It is a nice battery
and it is holding up well.  I might even stick in my Eclipse this winter.  A
Minnesota winter would be the true test.  ;)

I would not worry about the performance of the Black Panther batteries. 
Optima makes a new smaller battery too.  You can't go wrong with either one.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org


>From: "Todd Schmalzried" <Q11981@email.mot.com>
>To: stealth <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S: black panter battery question
>Date: Fri, 08 Oct 1999 11:23:02 -0700
>
>A while back someone said they bought a black panther battery. I was
>wondering if that person was still on the list. I am looking for
>feedback on the performance of the battery. How's it holding up, do you
>ever have problems starting the car, does it hold a charge if left to
>sit for a couple weeks.... stuff like that.
>
>I need a new battery, and was thinking of getting one because of the
>size. Jegs carries them now under the name "Odyssey" (page 92 in the new
>catalog). 150 for the small one and 200 for the big one. I would
>appreciate any real world feedback I can get before buying that
>expensive of a battery.
>
>Thanks
>Todd
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 12:33:49 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 21:29:57 +0100
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Subject: Re: Team3S: BOV
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"R.G." wrote:
>
> I just installed a Greddy Type S BOV. Together with the 1st gen DSM flange the
> thing is a simply replacement for the stock valve and also vents back to the
> intake. The sound is very noticeable (not annoying) with an aftermarket filter
> installed. The problematic adjusting is no issue as it does vent back and the
> stumble noticed with other BOV that vents to the atmosphere is not there. I can
> recommend it as it works perfect :)

No stumble?  I have yet to eliminate the stumble caused by the Blitz,
even with the adjustment screw all the way in (but I'll take the stumble
over the hooting resonance it eliminated, thank you very much!).  Not
sure why it happens, as the BOV should be completely closed when the
stumble occurs (1 second after getting off the throttle)...

-Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 13:35:10 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: off-topic: Fiero
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Sorry about the off-topic, but youse guys are the only ones who might have
an answer.

My son and I are going to Elkhart Lake this weekend for a driver's school
and hot lapping.

He has an 88 Fiero V6 automatic with 100,000 well-maintained miles on it,
uprated springs, and Comp T/A tires. It runs pretty good, although it tends
to use a little oil. He ran about 25 hot laps at the Marshalltown go-kart
track (0.70 mile, about a 55 mph average lap) two weeks ago with no problems.

He'll be running 20-minute sessions with top speeds of 125+, braking hard
at the end of three 1-mile straights.
We put Porterfield R4 pads on the front with stock rotors.

Question:  Is there ANYTHING about a Fiero we should be watching for?

Will the brakes hold up?
Will the engine overheat?
Will the automatic trans hold up?
Does it loop if you lift?
Anything else about which we should be aware?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 15:36:08 1999
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> No stumble?  I have yet to eliminate the stumble caused by the Blitz,
> even with the adjustment screw all the way in (but I'll take the stumble
> over the hooting resonance it eliminated, thank you very much!).

Also the "goose" has left my engine bay :) But the big difference is still
that the Greddy vents back to the intake while, AFAIK, your setup uses the
stock BPV as well as the Blitz BOV in parallel venting to the atmosphere.

> Not sure why it happens, as the BOV should be completely closed when the
> stumble occurs (1 second after getting off the throttle)...

The hard spring closes the BOV very quick, maybe too quick, what maybe
causes the stock BPV to open again. Also pressure may be relieved but the
turbos still are spooling and when the valve is closed again they still pump
up some boost. A good idea would be to hook up the boost gauge temporarily
to the y-pipe outlet to see how boost acts.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 20:41:11 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:37:54 -0500
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On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd International =
Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping.  A few of us =
participated and many came to watch the action.  It was the first time I =
took the Stealth out on a road course.

The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns.  The back straight is =
long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of 135-140 mph.  I =
felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled rotors, =
stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.  I also =
brought along my old stock rotors.  This turned out to be a blessing.  =
Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them!

I know that a few people have had problems with the cross drilled =
rotors.  Being that these people are die hard road racers and I a novice =
I did not foresee any problems with the cross drilleds.  This proved to =
be incorrect.  On my second session of the day I entered turn four under =
heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking =
power was severely reduced.  I was able to bring the car down to a slow =
pace and then drive off the course.  Upon closer inspection I found that =
the right front rotor had totally freed itself from the hub.  Not only =
that, the hub  had a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way =
around the outer edge. =20

After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I =
again took to the course.  At the last session of the day it was time =
for the other front corner to develop problems.  Going into turn 10 (90 =
degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from about 100 =
mph.  Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front temporarily =
locked up.  I eased up on the brakes and coming into the banked corner =
too fast I decided to go low rather than go high and potentially go off =
the course into the tower.  I got into a slide and soon enough it got =
the better of me and I spun about 150 degrees and came to a stop.  I =
quickly got the car off the course and then checked how my wife was =
doing.  She said she was done riding for the day.  Just as well, it =
turned out that the surface material was entirely gone on the left inner =
side, and almost all gone on the outer side.

These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top =
going out on this last run.  Upon inspecting the remains it seems that =
the entire friction material had come loose and just broke away.  Is =
this typical??  How far down should one let the pads go when driving a =
road course?  =20

All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will definitely =
do this again next year.  I will come prepared with better brakes and =
probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the Stealth's =
front end.  I will also not hesitate to take the time to install a set =
of BRAND new pads before going onto the course.  I find it alarming that =
the brakes gave out twice in one day.  It makes for some uneasy feelings =
about coming into certain corners.

I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM shootout =
autocross.  Does anyone have experience with these?  Are they worth =
trying?

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of the cracked rotor.

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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si&nbsp;went =
to Brainerd=20
International Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping.&nbsp; =
A few of=20
us participated and many came to watch the action.&nbsp; It was the =
first time I=20
took the Stealth out on a road course.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 =
turns.&nbsp; The=20
back straight is long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of =
135-140=20
mph.&nbsp; I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled =
rotors,=20
stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.&nbsp; I =
also=20
brought along my old stock rotors.&nbsp; This turned out to be a =
blessing.&nbsp;=20
Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know that a few people have had problems with the =
cross=20
drilled rotors.&nbsp; Being that these people are die hard road racers =
and I a=20
novice I did not foresee any problems with the cross drilleds.&nbsp; =
This proved=20
to be incorrect.&nbsp; On my second session of the day I entered turn =
four under=20
heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking =
power was=20
severely reduced.&nbsp; I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace =
and then=20
drive off the course.&nbsp; Upon closer inspection I found that the =
right front=20
rotor had totally freed itself from the hub.&nbsp; Not only that, the =
hub&nbsp;=20
had a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer=20
edge.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>After having replaced the failed rotor with one of =
my old=20
stock rotors I again took to the course.&nbsp; At the last session of =
the day it=20
was time for the other front corner to develop problems.&nbsp; Going =
into turn=20
10 (90 degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from =
about 100=20
mph.&nbsp; Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front =
temporarily=20
locked up.&nbsp; I eased up on the brakes and coming into the banked =
corner too=20
fast I decided to go low rather than go high and potentially go off the =
course=20
into the tower.&nbsp; I got into a slide and soon enough it got the =
better of me=20
and I spun about&nbsp;150 degrees and came to a stop.&nbsp; I quickly =
got the=20
car off the&nbsp;course and then checked how my wife was doing.&nbsp; =
She said=20
she was done riding for the day.&nbsp; Just as well, it turned out that =
the=20
surface material was entirely gone on the left inner side, and almost =
all gone=20
on the outer side.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the =
material left=20
prior top going out on this last run.&nbsp; Upon inspecting the remains =
it seems=20
that the entire friction material had come loose and just broke =
away.&nbsp; Is=20
this typical??&nbsp; How far down should one let the pads go when =
driving a road=20
course?&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>All in all I was very happy with this experience and =
I will=20
definitely do this again next year.&nbsp; I will come prepared with =
better=20
brakes and probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the =
Stealth's=20
front end.&nbsp; I will also not hesitate to take the time to install a =
set of=20
BRAND new pads before going onto the course.&nbsp; I find it alarming =
that the=20
brakes gave out twice in one day.&nbsp; It makes for some uneasy =
feelings about=20
coming into certain corners.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in =
the DSM=20
shootout autocross.&nbsp; Does anyone have experience with these?&nbsp; =
Are they=20
worth trying?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 R/T TT</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>E-mail me privately if interested in a&nbsp;pic of =
the cracked=20
rotor.</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00EA_01BF1370.17D28240--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 20:45:34 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>, "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:49:09 -0500
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Seems the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub.  Maybe we should
look into finding a good replacement.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Oskar
Sent: Sunday, October 10, 1999 10:38 PM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure

On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd International
Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping.  A few of us
participated and many came to watch the action.  It was the first time I
took the Stealth out on a road course.

The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns.  The back straight is
long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of 135-140 mph.  I felt
that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled rotors, stainless brake
lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.  I also brought along my
old stock rotors.  This turned out to be a blessing.  Thanks Curt Gendron
for insisting that I bring them!

I know that a few people have had problems with the cross drilled rotors.
Being that these people are die hard road racers and I a novice I did not
foresee any problems with the cross drilleds.  This proved to be incorrect.
On my second session of the day I entered turn four under heavy braking when
I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking power was severely reduced.
I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace and then drive off the
course.  Upon closer inspection I found that the right front rotor had
totally freed itself from the hub.  Not only that, the hub  had a large
stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer edge.

After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I
again took to the course.  At the last session of the day it was time for
the other front corner to develop problems.  Going into turn 10 (90 degree
right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from about 100 mph.
Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front temporarily locked
up.  I eased up on the brakes and coming into the banked corner too fast I
decided to go low rather than go high and potentially go off the course into
the tower.  I got into a slide and soon enough it got the better of me and I
spun about 150 degrees and came to a stop.  I quickly got the car off the
course and then checked how my wife was doing.  She said she was done riding
for the day.  Just as well, it turned out that the surface material was
entirely gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer side.

These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top
going out on this last run.  Upon inspecting the remains it seems that the
entire friction material had come loose and just broke away.  Is this
typical??  How far down should one let the pads go when driving a road
course?

All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will definitely do
this again next year.  I will come prepared with better brakes and probably
Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the Stealth's front end.  I
will also not hesitate to take the time to install a set of BRAND new pads
before going onto the course.  I find it alarming that the brakes gave out
twice in one day.  It makes for some uneasy feelings about coming into
certain corners.

I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM shootout
autocross.  Does anyone have experience with these?  Are they worth trying?

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of the cracked rotor.

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<body bgcolor=3Dwhite lang=3DEN-US style=3D'tab-interval:.5in'>

<div class=3DSection1>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'>Se=
ems the
94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub.<span =
style=3D"mso-spacerun:
yes">&nbsp; </span>Maybe we should look into finding a good =
replacement.<o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]>&nbsp;<![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><span class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><!=
[if =
!supportEmptyParas]>&nbsp;<![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><!--[if supportFields]><span =
class=3DEmailStyle15><font=20
size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><span =
style=3D'mso-element:field-begin'></span><span=20
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</span>AUTOTEXTLIST \s &quot;E-mail=20
Signature&quot; <span =
style=3D'mso-element:field-separator'></span></span></font></span><![endi=
f]--><font
color=3Dnavy><span style=3D'color:navy'>Brad</span></font><font =
color=3Dnavy><span
style=3D'color:navy;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></=
p>

<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 color=3Dnavy face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'>Check out my home page:<span
style=3D"mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; =
</span>http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/</span></font><font
color=3Dnavy><span =
style=3D'color:navy;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></=
p>

<p class=3DMsoAutoSig><font size=3D3 color=3Dnavy face=3D"Times New =
Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:navy'><span style=3D"mso-spacerun:
yes">&nbsp;</span>E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#<span =
style=3D"mso-spacerun:
yes">&nbsp; </span>3612682</span></font><font color=3Dnavy><span
style=3D'color:navy;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></=
p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal><!--[if supportFields]><span =
class=3DEmailStyle15><font=20
size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:
12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><span =
style=3D'mso-element:field-end'></span></span></font></span><![endif]--><=
span
class=3DEmailStyle15><font size=3D2 color=3Dnavy face=3DArial><span =
style=3D'font-size:
10.0pt;mso-bidi-font-size:12.0pt;font-family:Arial'><![if =
!supportEmptyParas]>&nbsp;<![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></span></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3DTahoma><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:Tahoma;color:black'>-----Original
Message-----<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>From:</span></b>
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com =
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]<b><span
style=3D'font-weight:bold'>On Behalf Of </span></b>Oskar<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Sent:</span></b> Sunday, October 10, =
1999
10:38 PM<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>To:</span></b> Team 3S<br>
<b><span style=3D'font-weight:bold'>Subject:</span></b> Team3S: Road =
racing -
Cracked rotor and brake pad failure</span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt'><![if =
!supportEmptyParas]>&nbsp;<![endif]><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>On =
Saturday
the Minnesota chapter of 3Si&nbsp;went to Brainerd International Raceway =
(BIR)
for a drivers school and hot lapping.&nbsp; A few of us participated and =
many
came to watch the action.&nbsp; It was the first time I took the Stealth =
out on
a road course.</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;
mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>The track is
almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns.&nbsp; The back straight is long =
enough to
where I consistently reached speeds of 135-140 mph.&nbsp; I felt that I =
came
well prepared with Stillen cross drilled rotors, stainless brake lines =
and
Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.&nbsp; I also brought along my old =
stock
rotors.&nbsp; This turned out to be a blessing.&nbsp; Thanks Curt =
Gendron for
insisting that I bring them!</span></font><font color=3Dblack><span
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>I =
know that a
few people have had problems with the cross drilled rotors.&nbsp; Being =
that
these people are die hard road racers and I a novice I did not foresee =
any
problems with the cross drilleds.&nbsp; This proved to be =
incorrect.&nbsp; On
my second session of the day I entered turn four under heavy braking =
when I
felt a very distinct snap and then the braking power was severely
reduced.&nbsp; I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace and then =
drive
off the course.&nbsp; Upon closer inspection I found that the right =
front rotor
had totally freed itself from the hub.&nbsp; Not only that, the =
hub&nbsp; had a
large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer =
edge.&nbsp; </span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>After having
replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I again took =
to the
course.&nbsp; At the last session of the day it was time for the other =
front
corner to develop problems.&nbsp; Going into turn 10 (90 degree right) I =
got on
the brakes to bring the car down from about 100 mph.&nbsp; Suddenly the =
brakes
gave away and then the right front temporarily locked up.&nbsp; I eased =
up on
the brakes and coming into the banked corner too fast I decided to go =
low rather
than go high and potentially go off the course into the tower.&nbsp; I =
got into
a slide and soon enough it got the better of me and I spun =
about&nbsp;150
degrees and came to a stop.&nbsp; I quickly got the car off =
the&nbsp;course and
then checked how my wife was doing.&nbsp; She said she was done riding =
for the
day.&nbsp; Just as well, it turned out that the surface material was =
entirely
gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer =
side.</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>These pads
appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top going out =
on this
last run.&nbsp; Upon inspecting the remains it seems that the entire =
friction
material had come loose and just broke away.&nbsp; Is this =
typical??&nbsp; How
far down should one let the pads go when driving a road =
course?&nbsp;&nbsp; </span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>All in all I
was very happy with this experience and I will definitely do this again =
next
year.&nbsp; I will come prepared with better brakes and probably =
Merrit's brake
duct design incorporated into the Stealth's front end.&nbsp; I will also =
not
hesitate to take the time to install a set of BRAND new pads before =
going onto
the course.&nbsp; I find it alarming that the brakes gave out twice in =
one
day.&nbsp; It makes for some uneasy feelings about coming into certain =
corners.</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>I =
got a gift
cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM shootout =
autocross.&nbsp; Does
anyone have experience with these?&nbsp; Are they worth =
trying?</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D3 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>Oskar</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>'95 R/T TT</span></font><font
color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'color:black;mso-color-alt:windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font><=
/p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>&nbsp;</span></font><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black;mso-color-alt:
windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

<p class=3DMsoNormal style=3D'margin-left:.5in'><font size=3D2 =
color=3Dblack
face=3D"Times New Roman"><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black'>E-mail me
privately if interested in a&nbsp;pic of the cracked =
rotor.</span></font><font
size=3D2 color=3Dblack><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;color:black;mso-color-alt:
windowtext'><o:p></o:p></span></font></p>

</div>

</body>

</html>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 21:17:43 1999
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To: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>, "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
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<excerpt>Oskar: I feel yor pain.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<


>>>>

<excerpt>>  I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross drilled
rotors, stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four corners.
I also brought along my old stock rotors.  This turned out to be a
blessing.  Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them! <<snip>
On my second session of the day I entered turn four under heavy braking
when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking power was severely
reduced.  I was able to bring the car down to a slow pace and then drive
off the course.  Upon closer inspection I found that the right front
rotor had totally freed itself from the hub.  Not only that, the hub  had
a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way around the outer edge. 

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

I know EXACTLY how you feel. You broke a rotor and lost the brakes.

There is a rumor that Stillen and PowerSlot and lord knows how many
others buy their rotors from the same furshlugginer supplier, and these
rotors break like crazy. I've broken two, now Oskar has broken one. How
many more will break before one of us gets hurt big time out there?


My only recommendation: Stick to stock rotors or Porterfields (stock
rotors that are cryogenically treated). They don't break.

<excerpt> 

>After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock rotors I
again took to the course.  At the last session of the day it was time for
the other front corner to develop problems.  Going into turn 10 (90
degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from about 100
mph.  Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front temporarily
locked up.  <<snip>  it turned out that the surface material was entirely
gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer side. These
pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior top going
out on this last run.  Upon inspecting the remains it seems that the
entire friction material had come loose and just broke away. 

</excerpt><<<<<<<<


Your problem is in using a street pad for road racing. My recommendation
is to install Porterfield R4 pads prior to an event and take them out
afterward. Your Metal Matrix pads are street pads. That's why they failed
you.

>>>>

<excerpt> 

>All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will definitely
do this again next year.  I will come prepared with better brakes and
probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the Stealth's front
end.  I will also not hesitate to take the time to install a set of BRAND
new pads before going onto the course.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<


There ya go.


>>>>

<excerpt> I find it alarming that the brakes gave out twice in one day.
It makes for some uneasy feelings about coming into certain corners.

</excerpt><<<<<<<<

Yep. Scary, ain't it.

I'm doing Road America this weekend, so I'll have a report on how well my
brakes hold up. I'm running Porterfield rotors and R4 pads (pads on all
four wheels this time), air ducts, and water injection.


Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 21:57:57 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Minnesota 3/S racing (long)
Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 23:57:32 CDT
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I'd like to give some more details about Saturday's adventure up at Brainerd
International Raceway.  Now that you've heard Oskar's story, I'm sure your
wanting more.  ;)

Myself and four other Minnesota 3/S members left the Twin Cities for
Brainerd around 8am. (John, Francis, Lawrence, and Shawn)  We arrived in
Brainerd around 10am.  When we got there we saw Oskar, Mark, Pete, and Ron
all running laps. (all 3/S owners)  This was a road racing, and driving
school.  The event was put on by the local Nissan Z club, but for some
reason, there was more Mitsubishis there then Nissans.

After the first session, all the 3/Ses seemed to have no problems with their
brakes.  Up to that point, the only problem was people getting stung by
bees.

During the second session, of four, is when Oskar broke the Stillen rotor in
two.  We'll have scanned pics in a week or two.  Luckily, he brought his old
stock rotors.  Mark, with his 91 R/T TT, was getting ready to run his third
session, when he noticed something wrong with his right front rotor.  The
pad was way past the wear indicator.  So he was forced to go perform a brake
pad change over to his new Porterfield R4S pads.  Too bad he missed the
third session.

Oskar and Mark both ran in the forth and final session of the day, and they
didn't 'seem' to have any problems.  Mark, Oskar, John and myself were
planning on making a trip to Perkins afterwards.  Just after we left the
track, Oskar pulled over.  He felt that the left front caliper was seized
against the rotor.  He limped to Perkins restaurant, and pulled off the
caliper.  I remember seeing two chunks, of what used to be metal matrix
pads, fall to the ground.  It was like the material melted and reformed into
chunks.  That is what was causing Oskar to feel like the caliper was
pressing against the rotor.

At this point, Mark and John drove back to the track to find Mark's old pads
that he threw away.  (Mark, you should of listen to me. hehe)  Luckily, they
found them, brought them back, and Oskar put them on the left front caliper.

After eating at Perkins, the four of us drove back, through the night, to
the Twin Cities. (a 2 hour drive)  Ironiclly enough, we saw a blue 1g
Stealth TT being towed away, on the interstate.  The Stealth was at the
track earlier in the day.  He wasn't a Minn 3/Ser though.

I learned a few things on Saturday, and I didn't even race.  First of all,
our cars can't brake worth crap in a road racing environment.  And secondly,
if you are going to race them, bring lots of extra brake parts.  I fully
believe that the Porterfield rotors and pads are the only way to go for your
braking needs.  Everything else, just doesn't hold up.

I want to thank all the Minnesota 3/S members that participated in the event
on Saturday.  It was truly a team effort to get our cars home.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

p.s.  A web page will be up soon to document this memorable day.

______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 10 22:40:29 1999
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Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:41:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
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Hi Oskar,

I guess you weren't here when we had the long
'braking' disscusion.  Well, the conclusion was -
Stillen rotors and pads won't hold up in open track
events.  Especially the pads, the semi-metallic
compound is only good for street cruising.

I and some other owners have good luck with
Porterfield rotors and R4 (carbon kevlar) race pads.
These pads can withstand much higher temp (never fad
in my experience.) Also make sure you have some racing
brake fluids like Motul 600 to avoid brake failure.

By the way, being a novice doesn't mean u won't use
the brakes as much.  It's acutally the opposite.. the
more experience you have, you will learn how conserve
and make better use of ur brakes. 

Good luck and have fun!! =)

George
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 08:06:47 1999
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From: Matt A Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: black panther battery question
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:10:31 -0500
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> A while back someone said they bought a black panther battery. I was
> wondering if that person was still on the list. I am looking for
> feedback on the performance of the battery. How's it holding
> up, do you ever have problems starting the car, does it hold a
> charge if left to sit for a couple weeks.... stuff like that.

Not sure if I bought the first one, but I got mine about 3 months ago.  So far it has worked flawlessly.  It hasn't become anywhere near drained yet, even with putting the convertible top up and down several times in a row without starting the car where the old battery would die after 2-3 times.  I haven't had the car sitting for more than a couple days, so I can't speak to whether or not it holds its charge long-term.  I would guess it would hold charge at least as well as a lead-acid battery.

Best thing about it, is if you accidentally discharge it all the way down - it doesn't affect it at all and you can just recharge it all the way back up in about an hour.  Jumping it is safer also, since it can't explode since there is no expanding gasses inside the case.  If it did split open, at least it won't spray acid in your face.

If I recall correctly, the battery saved me 14 pounds over the stock battery, and gave me enough room to mount the entire Spearco water injection tank, pump, and boost switch on the battery tray in a vertical position (the preferred position).

> I need a new battery, and was thinking of getting one because of the
> size. Jegs carries them now under the name "Odyssey" (page 92
> in the new
> catalog). 150 for the small one and 200 for the big one. I would
> appreciate any real world feedback I can get before buying that
> expensive of a battery.

Can't complain about mine.  Does exactly what it should.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 09:14:56 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:09:39 -0500
To: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Minnesota 3/S racing (long)
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>I learned a few things on Saturday, and I didn't even race.  First of all,
>our cars can't brake worth crap in a road racing environment. 

Not true. Run race pads and get cooling air to them, and they last just
fine. R4s should last an entire weekend.


And secondly,
>if you are going to race them, bring lots of extra brake parts.  I fully
>believe that the Porterfield rotors and pads are the only way to go for your
>braking needs.  Everything else, just doesn't hold up.

Hear, hear!  That's absolutely correct.  Although I hear that Pagids hold
up, too.
For spares, just bring rotors and an extra set of front pads.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 10:03:45 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
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To: Team 3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
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>Seems the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub.  Maybe we
>should look into finding a good replacement.

Brad, once-upon-a-time I thought that you were investigating rotors for your
Porsche Big-Red caliper upgrade kit.  Was this a rumor, did you find anything,
did you give up?

Also, a couple of weeks ago John Christian reported that he has been using
directional rotors from a Supra with Brad's caliper upgrade and KPF (??) pads
with very good results on his '93 Stealth TT.  "That combination had survived
200 track miles and the pads are only half used--the rotors are only slightly
groved."  I was hoping John could share a few more specifics but he hasn't
answered any of my emails yet.  Hey John, are you out there?
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 10:25:06 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>, "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 06:47:34 -0800
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Oskar,

Which rotor manufacturer were you using?  I heard some manufacturers =
simply cross drill the
stock rotors.

Sincerely
Noble
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Oskar <swede@pclink.com>
    To: Team 3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
    Date: Sunday, October 10, 1999 7:41 PM
    Subject: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
   =20
   =20
    On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of 3Si went to Brainerd =
International Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot lapping.  A few =
of us participated and many came to watch the action.  It was the first =
time I took the Stealth out on a road course.
   =20
    The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 turns.  The back =
straight is long enough to where I consistently reached speeds of =
135-140 mph.  I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen cross =
drilled rotors, stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all four =
corners.  I also brought along my old stock rotors.  This turned out to =
be a blessing.  Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I bring them!
    =20
    I know that a few people have had problems with the cross drilled =
rotors.  Being that these people are die hard road racers and I a novice =
I did not foresee any problems with the cross drilleds.  This proved to =
be incorrect.  On my second session of the day I entered turn four under =
heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then the braking =
power was severely reduced.  I was able to bring the car down to a slow =
pace and then drive off the course.  Upon closer inspection I found that =
the right front rotor had totally freed itself from the hub.  Not only =
that, the hub  had a large stress crack running about 1/3 of the way =
around the outer edge. =20
   =20
    After having replaced the failed rotor with one of my old stock =
rotors I again took to the course.  At the last session of the day it =
was time for the other front corner to develop problems.  Going into =
turn 10 (90 degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car down from =
about 100 mph.  Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the right front =
temporarily locked up.  I eased up on the brakes and coming into the =
banked corner too fast I decided to go low rather than go high and =
potentially go off the course into the tower.  I got into a slide and =
soon enough it got the better of me and I spun about 150 degrees and =
came to a stop.  I quickly got the car off the course and then checked =
how my wife was doing.  She said she was done riding for the day.  Just =
as well, it turned out that the surface material was entirely gone on =
the left inner side, and almost all gone on the outer side.
   =20
    These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the material left prior =
top going out on this last run.  Upon inspecting the remains it seems =
that the entire friction material had come loose and just broke away.  =
Is this typical??  How far down should one let the pads go when driving =
a road course?  =20
   =20
    All in all I was very happy with this experience and I will =
definitely do this again next year.  I will come prepared with better =
brakes and probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated into the =
Stealth's front end.  I will also not hesitate to take the time to =
install a set of BRAND new pads before going onto the course.  I find it =
alarming that the brakes gave out twice in one day.  It makes for some =
uneasy feelings about coming into certain corners.
   =20
    I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for placing in the DSM =
shootout autocross.  Does anyone have experience with these?  Are they =
worth trying?
   =20
    Oskar
    '95 R/T TT
   =20
    E-mail me privately if interested in a pic of the cracked rotor.

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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Oskar,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Which rotor manufacturer were you using?&nbsp; I =
heard some=20
manufacturers simply cross drill the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>stock rotors.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Sincerely</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Noble</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Oskar &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:swede@pclink.com">swede@pclink.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B>Team=20
    3S &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Sunday, October 10, 1999 7:41 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Team3S: Road =
racing=20
    - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>On Saturday the Minnesota chapter of =
3Si&nbsp;went to=20
    Brainerd International Raceway (BIR) for a drivers school and hot=20
    lapping.&nbsp; A few of us participated and many came to watch the=20
    action.&nbsp; It was the first time I took the Stealth out on a road =

    course.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>The track is almost 3 miles long and has 10 =
turns.&nbsp;=20
    The back straight is long enough to where I consistently reached =
speeds of=20
    135-140 mph.&nbsp; I felt that I came well prepared with Stillen =
cross=20
    drilled rotors, stainless brake lines and Metal Matrix pads at all =
four=20
    corners.&nbsp; I also brought along my old stock rotors.&nbsp; This =
turned=20
    out to be a blessing.&nbsp; Thanks Curt Gendron for insisting that I =
bring=20
    them!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know that a few people have had problems with =
the cross=20
    drilled rotors.&nbsp; Being that these people are die hard road =
racers and I=20
    a novice I did not foresee any problems with the cross =
drilleds.&nbsp; This=20
    proved to be incorrect.&nbsp; On my second session of the day I =
entered turn=20
    four under heavy braking when I felt a very distinct snap and then =
the=20
    braking power was severely reduced.&nbsp; I was able to bring the =
car down=20
    to a slow pace and then drive off the course.&nbsp; Upon closer =
inspection I=20
    found that the right front rotor had totally freed itself from the=20
    hub.&nbsp; Not only that, the hub&nbsp; had a large stress crack =
running=20
    about 1/3 of the way around the outer edge.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>After having replaced the failed rotor with one =
of my old=20
    stock rotors I again took to the course.&nbsp; At the last session =
of the=20
    day it was time for the other front corner to develop =
problems.&nbsp; Going=20
    into turn 10 (90 degree right) I got on the brakes to bring the car =
down=20
    from about 100 mph.&nbsp; Suddenly the brakes gave away and then the =
right=20
    front temporarily locked up.&nbsp; I eased up on the brakes and =
coming into=20
    the banked corner too fast I decided to go low rather than go high =
and=20
    potentially go off the course into the tower.&nbsp; I got into a =
slide and=20
    soon enough it got the better of me and I spun about&nbsp;150 =
degrees and=20
    came to a stop.&nbsp; I quickly got the car off the&nbsp;course and =
then=20
    checked how my wife was doing.&nbsp; She said she was done riding =
for the=20
    day.&nbsp; Just as well, it turned out that the surface material was =

    entirely gone on the left inner side, and almost all gone on the =
outer=20
    side.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>These pads appeared to have had about 1/3 of the =
material=20
    left prior top going out on this last run.&nbsp; Upon inspecting the =
remains=20
    it seems that the entire friction material had come loose and just =
broke=20
    away.&nbsp; Is this typical??&nbsp; How far down should one let the =
pads go=20
    when driving a road course?&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>All in all I was very happy with this experience =
and I=20
    will definitely do this again next year.&nbsp; I will come prepared =
with=20
    better brakes and probably Merrit's brake duct design incorporated =
into the=20
    Stealth's front end.&nbsp; I will also not hesitate to take the time =
to=20
    install a set of BRAND new pads before going onto the course.&nbsp; =
I find=20
    it alarming that the brakes gave out twice in one day.&nbsp; It =
makes for=20
    some uneasy feelings about coming into certain corners.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I got a gift cert. for CarboTech pads for =
placing in the=20
    DSM shootout autocross.&nbsp; Does anyone have experience with =
these?&nbsp;=20
    Are they worth trying?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Oskar</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>'95 R/T TT</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>E-mail me privately if interested in a&nbsp;pic =
of the=20
    cracked rotor.</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE32F7.1DAC61E0--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 10:36:23 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: Team 3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Notice - PLEASE...no HTML
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:35:49 -0700
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Listmembers...PLEASE...

When someone posts HTML formatted messages to the list, they create problems
for the digest version. When this happens we (the Admins) send a private
message to the sender. Plain Text only!!! HOWEVER, if you see a HTML message
posted, PLEASE turn it back to plain text if you reply to the list.
Otherwise, the HTML format is propagated on each successive post.

Also, as a reminder, please <snip> the majority of the original message when
replying to long posts. We're all able to follow the thread without turning
it into a novel.

THANKS!!!

Looking forward...Chris (Team 3S Admin)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 14:24:11 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:21:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <burke@pas.rochester.edu>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Semi-Off-Topic: Rearview Mirror Placement and Mechanics
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.10.9910111718550.16979-100000@alfalfa.pas.rochester.edu>
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First off, i'm a fairly tall guy and the rear view obstructs my view to
the right unless I duck to look under it.  Can anyone recommend a way for
my to position it higher? Is this adviseable?

Secondly, can anyone recommend a good mechanic in the Rochester, NY area?
Or at least somewhere within an hour or so from here? I'm less
knowledgeable about cars than I would like, and I don't like the stories I
hear about how people screw up our cars at chain service centers...

andy
'93 3000gt vr-4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 17:46:26 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: Subject Exhausrt system primer
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 17:41:56 -0700
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A 300ZX site primer on exhaust systems --- worth looking over !!

    Jim Berry
>
>
>  http://z31.com/board/archives/view.pl?129
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 18:54:15 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Coolant Leak
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:50:05 -0600
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My car is leaking coolant.  I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
on my way with a new radiator cap.  It stopped leaking until today.  The car
doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?

Thanks,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT
60,000 miles

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 18:59:34 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ABS operation
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 18:55:10 -0700
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I recently purchased a set  of Brads " big red Porsche brakes " from
David Skultetys' and his recently deceased 93 VR4 [ RIP ].
If and when UPS gets tired of shuttling them around the country I will
install them on my 93TT. As a precursor to installing the new system I
was running some braking benchmarks with my G-Tech by doing some
full effort stops. I got about .95 G's which seems about right.
Strange things --- while I'm new to ABS I expected a nice smooth stop
with perhaps some pulsing of the pedal to indicate intervention of the ABS
system --- what I got was some [ not blue smoke lockup ] squealing of
tire(s) and some pulling to the left, I never did get a smooth stop.
The ABS shows no errors, the light comes on and blinks at startup
just like the book says.
The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
it  that my existing system just can't lock up the wheels,  the squealing
indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending lockup

     Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 19:06:17 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>,
        "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <000501bf1454$1c4426a0$8d0bc5d1@p9u2n5>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:01:52 -0700
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> My car is leaking coolant.  I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
> with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
> on my way with a new radiator cap.  It stopped leaking until today.  The car
> doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
> Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?
>
> ==============================================

Where does the coolant end up on the ground --- it may just be the
overflow bottle being to full and running over when hot.

   Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 19:21:00 1999
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Message-ID: <007401bf1458$8173f100$140100b6@monster>
Reply-To: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: New Website
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:21:32 -0400
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I'd just like to take a second of your time to announce
yet another 3000GT website...=20
I know.. I know... there's plenty of them
out there.

This one is still in its infancy, so please
bear with me.  I've done a bunch of=20
small biz websites over the years, so
I'm no rookie... but I would like some
feedback from you guys regarding=20
what you'd like to find on a website=20
that might be helpful to you.

I'm open to suggestion, and I've got=20
plenty of storage space... <g>

The URL is....
http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT/

Thanx...
-Remo

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'd just like to take a second of =
your time to=20
announce</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>yet another =
3000GT=20
website... </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I know.. I know... there's plenty of =
them</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>out there.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This one is still in its infancy, so =
please</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>bear with me.&nbsp; I've done a bunch of =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>small biz websites over the years, so</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm no rookie... but I would like some</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>feedback from you guys regarding </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>what you'd like to find on a website </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>that might be helpful to you.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I'm open to suggestion, and I've got </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>plenty of storage space... &lt;g&gt;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The URL is....</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT/">http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT=
/</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanx...</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>-Remo</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0071_01BF1436.F901D6A0--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 19:35:11 1999
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To: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>,
        "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS operation
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>The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
>it  that my existing system just can't lock up the wheels,  the squealing
>indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending lockup

With R4 race pads properly warm, it's like throwing out an anchor.
Sounds like you need some new pads.
>
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 19:35:12 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:29:20 -0500
To: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>,
        "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak
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At 07:50 PM 10/11/99 -0600, CEskelsen wrote:
>My car is leaking coolant.  I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
>with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
>on my way with a new radiator cap.  It stopped leaking until today.  The car
>doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
>Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?
>

Sounds like a classic water pump leak, especially if you are at 60,000
miles. It leaks up inside the timing cover, gets all over the timing belt,
and drips out the bottom. There are no hoses anywhere nearby. A simple
pressure test at the dealer will find it.

If you are still covered by warranty, the dealer is supposed to replace the
timing belt too, because coolant ruins it. That's probably why they tried
to fix it with a lower pressure cap.

If you are not covered by warranty,  you're looking at $700.
If you have not yet done your 60,000 mile tuneup, this is the perfect time
to do it. Change the water pump while you are in there. All that stuff is
in the same place -- water pump, timing belt, tensioners, etc. Get it all
at once.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/been there, done that with the water pump.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 19:55:13 1999
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Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 19:52:32 -0700
To: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
From: Steve Saeedi <saeedi@netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak
Cc: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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At 7:50 PM -0600 10/11/99, CEskelsen wrote:
>My car is leaking coolant.  I took it into the Mitsu dealer two weeks ago
>with the same complaint and after a thorough check of thermostats I was sent
>on my way with a new radiator cap.  It stopped leaking until today.  The car
>doesn't leak until I turn it off then leaves a few ounces on the pavement.
>Should I be looking for something more than another rad cap?

I assume you have ruled out condensation from the air conditioner.
Justa thought.

- Steve
   '91 Stealth R/T

>
>Thanks,
>Cory Eskelsen
>96 R/T TT
>60,000 miles
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 20:17:42 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Semi-Off-Topic: Rearview Mirror Placement and Mechanics
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:17:50 -0500
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i think they are adjustable. there are two pivot points on the mirror, one
at the base of the stalk where it connects to the windshield, and one where
it connects to the mirror. when i tried adjusting mine, the pivot on the
windshield didn't want to move, it had been sitting that way for god knows
how long before i bought my car, it just sorta stuck there. after a little
wiggling around, it came free. i went out just now and got the mirror pretty
high up, touching the headliner almost. unless they changed mirrors in 93,
or have different mirrors on 3ks then stealths, you might wanna examine it.

Omar
92 r/t

> First off, i'm a fairly tall guy and the rear view obstructs my view to
> the right unless I duck to look under it.  Can anyone recommend a way for
> my to position it higher? Is this adviseable?
>
> andy
> '93 3000gt vr-4


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 20:26:15 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>,
        "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak
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Thanks Jim,
    The coolant is definitely overflowing from the tank.  My concern stems
from the fact that the dealership says the car is running under acceptable
temps but it is still leaking from the overflow.  I just got back from a
drive, thr turbo timer ran the car for one minute and shut off.  I watched
and listened to the engine bay.  After shut down, I could hear the collant
bubble into the tank and them drop some fluid (approx. 1 to 2 ounces).
Should I give it a couple days or be more concerned?

Cory


----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
To: CEskelsen <cesk@redrock.net>; 3000 list <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 1999 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coolant Leak


>
==============================================
>
> Where does the coolant end up on the ground --- it may just be the
> overflow bottle being to full and running over when hot.
>
>    Jim Berry
>
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 21:27:51 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <Brian@GTPRO.COM>
Subject: Team3S: RPS & Carbon Fiber hood update.
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 23:30:36 -0500
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RPS Clutch:

I received it today, the compound on the disk looks much different than the
defective one.   Rob did manage to send me a new pressure plate, and not a
rebuilt one.  As I predicted there was no check enclosed.  I have not
decided if I want to install a RPS clutch in my car or not.

Anyone have a TC Clutch holding up ?



Carbon Fiber hood:

Installed it today, it fits very well.   I'll have to do some slight
alignment and a small modification to the hood latch. (notch the alignment
holes) The hood doesn't quite latch fully.  I'll have to move the latch up
about 1/8 inch.   Time involved to fix ~1 hour.  This hood is the best
aftermarket body piece that I've seen.   Brian gets my backing on his
product.

Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 11 23:31:38 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: B&M Ignition Upgrade
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This is good testing, info and news.  I had heard of the B&M deal some time
back and wondered whether to think about it or the MSD or whatever.  If
this works, that is great.  I have a couple reports of MSD DIS  units going
bad, anecdotal only but troubling.  Sure do appreciate your thorough testing,
Roger, because the results are therefore believable!

Jack Tertadian

"R.G." wrote:  [snips]

> I got "New Volt" ignition amp from B&M free to
> test on my car. aim to eliminate narrow gap
> plugs under high boost, to add power to burn additional fuel.
> Unfortunately, even with gap 0.032, hesitation @ 5000+ is
> still noticeable as well as measurable=showed on dyno slip.
> New Volt simply was connected into harness going to coils;
> increases voltage from 12 to 20V; current
> can reach 2 Amps per fire compared to 0.05 Amps normally.
> The results were ... zero. I felt hesitation was lower but second run
> without New Volt gave same result and therefore New Volt did nothing.
> The increased voltage/current didn't increase energy in coils.
> During many conversations with development manager at B&M I
> mentioned the power transistors that switch/activate
> coils may limit current that can be drawn by the coils. B&M came
> up with same assumption and decided to check their design. I have
> drawn schematic that provides very simple bolt-on solution to
> existing ignition system but I forgot anything about power
> transistors :-( B&M and I are working on that. Final solution may
> consists of universal B&M New Volt and additional 3S specific box.
>  We are developing easy
> more powerful ignition for our cars. This does nothing to
> timing but should increase power to plugs. Result will be
> running plugs 0.045 with enough energy. Increasing boost/fuel results in higher
> resistance in plug gap.
> B&M New Volt increased voltage but stock system
> is not able to benefit so no gain was found. I hope to test solution in
> the next weeks.
> Roger 93 3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 08:25:11 1999
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Message-ID: <ced8cc3e.2534acb4@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 11:24:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS & Carbon
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In a message dated 10/12/99 3:23:45 PM !!!First Boot!!!, LotoBoost writes:

<< In a message dated 10/12/99 4:28:51 AM !!!First Boot!!!,
bbedell@austin.rr.com writes:

< RPS Clutch:
 
  I received it today, the compound on the disk looks much different than the
  defective one.   Rob did manage to send me a new pressure plate, and not a
  rebuilt one.  As I predicted there was no check enclosed.  I have not
  decided if I want to install a RPS clutch in my car or not.
 
  Anyone have a TC Clutch holding up ? >>

Do you have the dual compound disk or full carbon?  Most of the full carbon
disks I've installed have gone south except for the one on Joe Canella's VR4
(around 600hp).  Which makes me wonder if the break-in plays a big factor in
the life of the Carbon?

I've only installed one of the new dual compound disks in a Stealth/VR4 so
not sure how it will end up, but have had some experience with the dual
compound on the Supra Twin Turbo.  So far they tend to chatter alot less (at
least three out of four so far) and have held for three weeks so far on
500-600rwhp Supras.  The Dual Compound on the Stealth also chatters alot less
(none) and has a hair less pedal effort.

I think RPS is definatly headed in the right direction..  I'll post more
after the Stealth (has about 525hp) gets to the track.

Mike
1994 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.4 Best mph: 122
www.AlteredAtmosphere.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 09:36:04 1999
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Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 07:17:16 +0100
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New Website
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> Gil Gomes wrote:
>
> I'm no rookie... but I would like some
> feedback from you guys regarding
> what you'd like to find on a website
> that might be helpful to you.

I'd like to see how I can get my car in the 10s for $1000 or less while
maintaining 100% reliability and improved gas mileage.  Thanx.  ;-)

-Jim

P.S.- Please take your mailer out of HTML mode when posting to the
list.  Thanx!!

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 12:34:55 1999
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From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: FAQ help
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 15:35:39 -0400
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Happy belated anniversary to Team 3/S. Man that was a quick year...

Need a little help from you guys for the FAQ. As I currently have 1000+ FAQ
messages to sort through I need to be able to take my work home. I can't
access my mailbox from home for security reasons. So what is the best way to
take all these gobs of messages in MS Outlook to my home computer and have
them all neatly organized in their respected folders. Archive?

Yes I used to be a network engineer, and yes I'm being lazy, and yes I'm
wasting list time. But my time is super full (y2k) and I just want this one
to be told to me so I can get rev. 1 of this big 'ole FAQ out.

E-mail me privately of course.

Thanks,
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 13:11:14 1999
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From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
To: "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Cleaning Engine
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 13:07:15 -0700
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Gentlemen,
I have put quite a few miles on my 3K and the engine compartment has got
fairly dirty I am now think of cleaning it.  Members who have cleaned their
3K engines, any words of advice on what to cover and the best way to do so.
Thank in advance. 


Luis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 19:45:43 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>,
        "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <Brian@GTPRO.COM>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS & Carbon Fiber hood update.
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 1999 08:08:34 -0800
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To everyone,


I also inquired about those carbon fiber hoods from Brian.
Apparently he's working on a new design that has a "hot air" vent on top
of the engine and a genuine Viper GTS(?) hood scoop that directs
cool air to the intake.
He mentioned it'll take around 4-6 weeks before they're made.

Lates
-Noble


>
>Carbon Fiber hood:
>
>Installed it today, it fits very well.   I'll have to do some slight
>alignment and a small modification to the hood latch. (notch the alignment
>holes) The hood doesn't quite latch fully.  I'll have to move the latch up
>about 1/8 inch.   Time involved to fix ~1 hour.  This hood is the best
>aftermarket body piece that I've seen.   Brian gets my backing on his
>product.
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 21:48:32 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 00:41:30 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
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To: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
CC: Team 3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, htsparts@ix.netcom.com,
        wmsbrakes@aol.com, Brad Bedell BIG BRAKES <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
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Hi Ken & all,

check my HomePage for 'Adventures in braking and see for yourself.  Also
go to Brad's HomePage and look at the 'BIG RED KIT'.   Yes, Brad's kit
and the Supra rotors(htsparts@ix.netcom.com) work well with Paul
Weston's pads(wmsbrakes@aol.com).  

What else do you want???

I'll be going to MidOhio Oct23 & 24 and Carolina MotorSport Park Oct 30
& 31 so I'll have more miles and info about the life of pads with the
new system.   It's the best I've put on my TT so far.

The BBQ'ed Porterfield R4 with the stock '94 rotor/caliper usually got
me thru one day of a driving school.  Stock pads would last about one or
two sessions(about 25-50 miles).

Never did CRACK  a stock rotor.  Groved them pretty good though!  Did
put some nasty heat checks in many.  Warped many at the track.  Never
warped them on the street.

[snip]
Ken Middaugh wrote:
>
> >Seems the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub.  Maybe we
> >should look into finding a good replacement.
You are NEVER going to be satisfied with stock rotors for Road Racing.
The pads are TOO small and generate too much heat.  The stock rotors
cannot disipate the heat fast enough.
Don't----- repeat don't do Road Courses with the 91-93 braking system.
The '94 system isn't much better.  Plan to replace pads during the
driving school--- probably rotors also.

> Brad, once-upon-a-time I thought that you were investigating rotors for your
> Porsche Big-Red caliper upgrade kit.  Was this a rumor, did you find anything, did you give up?
Brad is the person who suggested the Supra rotors.  You do have to have
a machining source to turn the inside pilot dia to fit over our hub.
The inboard smallest dia portion of the sweep will rub a little on the
hub mount, but will eventually grind enough away for clearance.


> Also, a couple of weeks ago John Christian reported that he has been using
> directional rotors from a Supra with Brad's caliper upgrade and KPF (??) pads
> with very good results on his '93 Stealth TT.  "That combination had survived
> 200 track miles and the pads are only half used--the rotors are only slightly
> groved."  I was hoping John could share a few more specifics but he hasn't
> answered any of my emails yet.  Hey John, are you out there?

Yeh, I'm here with the "new ISP and new Mailbox"  UGGGHHhhhhh the Lynx
and DOS with ASCII using Telix and the digest version was a lot easier
on me than this new technology  with a gazillian individual messages.

> -
--
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes and Supra Rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 22:13:16 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 01:06:17 -0400
From: "John T. Christian" <jczoom@geocities.com>
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To: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>
CC: team 3si <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS operation
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Hi Jim & all,

You'll like the new brakes.  BTW you did also buy the VR4 rims also???
Cause the 93 TT rims are smaller inside and will NOT clear the Porsche
calipers.   Perhaps you have after market rims.

Never felt ABS on dry pavement with the stock system.  With Brad's
you'll feel the pedal pulse and see patches of your 245x45x17 on the
pavement.  You'll also have brake dust on your rims.  Now I know what
"threshold braking" is.

Be of good cheer
John

Jim Berry wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a set  of Brads " big red Porsche brakes " from
> David Skultetys' and his recently deceased 93 VR4 [ RIP ].
>  If and when UPS gets tired of shuttling them around the country I will
> install them on my 93TT.


> The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
> it  that my existing system just can't lock up the wheels,  the squealing
> indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending lockup
>
>      Jim Berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes  and Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com 
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 22:19:30 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <jczoom@iname.com>, "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
Cc: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS operation
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 00:22:24 -0500
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Actually the setup that Dave had will fit on the 93 wheels.   The Supra
rotor is a touch larger and the offset is not as great as the 94+ rotors.

Jim, If you have any problems or any questions on the brakes let me know.


I don't have problems setting the ABS off  with my 255 40 17's at 120mph. :)
I finally warped the rotors though, 14,000 miles of street use.  The pads
are about 1/2 worn.

A word to the wise with these brakes,  Upgrade to the 94+ two piston rear
calipers and rotors also.  The brake bias to the front makes for tricky
driving; on hard braking if you need to make any steering wheel input the
rear end is real light and could come around on you.


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of John T. Christian
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 1999 12:06 AM
To: Jim Berry
Cc: team 3si
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS operation

Hi Jim & all,

You'll like the new brakes.  BTW you did also buy the VR4 rims also???
Cause the 93 TT rims are smaller inside and will NOT clear the Porsche
calipers.   Perhaps you have after market rims.

Never felt ABS on dry pavement with the stock system.  With Brad's
you'll feel the pedal pulse and see patches of your 245x45x17 on the
pavement.  You'll also have brake dust on your rims.  Now I know what
"threshold braking" is.

Be of good cheer
John

Jim Berry wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a set  of Brads " big red Porsche brakes " from
> David Skultetys' and his recently deceased 93 VR4 [ RIP ].
>  If and when UPS gets tired of shuttling them around the country I will
> install them on my 93TT.


> The question is --- what should a panic stop feel like in our cars and is
> it  that my existing system just can't lock up the wheels,  the squealing
> indicates that one wheel is locking or at least impending lockup
>
>      Jim Berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
JCZoooM  93 TT 12.46@109Mph   Now with Porsche brakes  and Supra rotors
Email---> JCZooM@iname.com
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 12 23:43:36 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale (again)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 01:46:37 -0500
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Parts off a 92 VR4, pearl white unless otherwise specified: Parts will need
painted.
Hood, and caps  (200)

front & rear bumper 100ea
Lower side panels(rocker covers) 150 ea
headlight assemblies (L&R) 200 ea
Rear Active aero wing 200
Rear wiper & motor 100

RSR lowering springs, 150

Stereo:

92/93 Premium stereo (surround & cassette) 200
Pioneer DEH 435 fm/am/CD  150
Soundstream Ref 500 amp  275
Soundstream Granite 180.6 150


Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 08:47:40 1999
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Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 11:47:12 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
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Hey everyone,
   
    First of all, I would like to thank each and EVERY one of you who replied
(via privately or to the list) to my post.  I truly appreciate all of your
suggestions!!!

Update:  My buddy (Mitsu. mechanic) and I checked everything out again. 
Here's my status:

1)  The wastegates are healthy/fine; they are not stuck open; tested &
appeared    operable.
2)  The turbos seem fine as well; we did a visual on both turbos' compressor
side    wheels; they spun freely with no play; we also started up the car and
gave some   throttle to see if the compressor side of the turbos were
circulating air; and sure   enough these turbos were circulating a PLENTY of
air;  which made us believe     that the exhaust/hot side of the turbos are
healthy;  Because IF I had a problem    with my exhaust/hot side of the
turbine wheels, we guessed that the compressor  side would also be seized up
or somewhat problematic; that was NOT the case;     they seem to spin freely
therefore seem fine/healthy.  (Removal of Turbos will be    my absolute LAST,
last resort).
3)  We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses that lead to the y-pipe; we
also    pressure tested the hoses that lead to the intercoolers; everything
checked out     healthy/fine!  No leaks were found and the clamps were all
tight!!
4)  We even by-passed my GReddy Profec B boost controller and set my stock 
boost system up; we also checked the stock boost solenoid; So my GReddy    
boost controller checked out okay/fine.  Still NO Boost!!!
5)  During my initial post re: this problem I mentioned that we tested my
Apex'i  Sequential blow off valve with a Mighty VAC; and that checked out
okay/fine as    well; but I will try my stock blow off valve sometime soon.

So everything mechanical checked out okay!!??  Which leads me to believe, "do
I have an electrical/ECU problem????"   Any thoughts from you guys?????

My next plan of attack:

1)  Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about 7,000 miles
old); I'm   wondering if my rear plugs are real fouled up or faulty???  Due
to how rich (HKS    fuel pump and 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to
possible worn valve     seals??????   IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
again; maybe I should   NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at     stock/factory
gap?????? 
2)  Compression test 
3)  replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov.  (worth a try)
4)  Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be the cause of
this                                            problem??????????? ( I highly
doubt it)  But Roger, you mentioned before if I'm   running too rich????  
Can I just unplug the AFC?  since there is no Power OFF.
5)  Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's defective?????  (I'm just reaching for
ideas!)
6)  don't know what else to check???????????????????

Any ideas would truly, TRULY be appreciated!!! 
Thanks in advance.

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4   -  Going thru some major withdrawals!!!!!  I am
driving a VR4 with NO BOOST!!!!!   and some smoke at ocassional deceleration
and stops (I believe this is due to possible worn valve seals).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 09:08:32 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 11:12:18 -0500
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> 3)  We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses that lead to
> the y-pipe; we also pressure tested the hoses that lead to
> the intercoolers; everything checked out healthy/fine!  No
> leaks were found and the clamps were all tight!!

Hmm...  How about the hoses that attach to the throttle body?  BOV line?  Not sure how the Apex'i BOV works, but the stock one requires pressure in the line to help work against the boost pressure on the Y-pipe side to hold the valve closed.  The valve opens due to pressure differential, so if it is seeing no pressure on the input from throttle body, it might pop open.

> 5)  During my initial post re: this problem I mentioned that
> we tested my Apex'i  Sequential blow off valve with a
> Mighty VAC; and that checked out okay/fine as well; but I
> will try my stock blow off valve sometime soon.

How do you mean, checked with a Mighty Vac?

> So everything mechanical checked out okay!!??  Which leads me
> to believe, "do I have an electrical/ECU problem????"   Any
> thoughts from you guys?????

The boost control system is strictly mechanical in nature.  The only part that is electronically controlled is the maximum boost pressure beyond where the wastegates are triggered mechanically.  I seem to recall that the mechanical resistance in the wastegates is 6 psi, so you should at least see that.  Since you aren't getting that (as far as we know), then something in the intake tract or exhaust side of the turbos is not working properly.  I doubt a siezed turbo or other turbo malfunctions since you aren't getting any boost.  Even on one turbo you should still see boost, although it will fall off very quickly.

> My next plan of attack:
>
> 1)  Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about
> 7,000 miles old); I'm   wondering if my rear plugs are real
> fouled up or faulty???  Due to how rich (HKS fuel pump and
> 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to possible worn valve
> seals??????   IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
> again; maybe I should   NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at    
> stock/factory gap??????

I seriously doubt this is the cause.  If the car runs at all, you should still be able to see at least some boost.  On my Eclipse I had a serious problem where it was only injecting fuel into 2 cylinders and I still got boost.  If you suspect worn valve seals, do a compression test to find out.
 
> 2)  Compression test

:-)

> 3)  replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov.  (worth a try)

Yes, do this.  Or, just seal the intake pipe where the BOV attaches to verify that this isn't leaking.  Make sure the line from the TB is attached to the stock BOV.

> 4)  Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be
> the cause of this problem??????????? ( I highly
> doubt it)  But Roger, you mentioned before if I'm running
> too rich????

Highly unlikely.  If the car is burning any mixture at all, it should still have enough exhaust gasses to spin the turbos.  You mentioned that the turbos seemed to be sucking in plenty of air when you looked at the compressor side, so I think your turbos are working fine.  The air just isn't making it into the throttle body (or your boost gauge isn't working, although it sounds like you can certainly feel that there's no boost).

> 5)  Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's defective?????  (I'm just
> reaching for ideas!)

Doesn't match your symptom list.

> 6)  don't know what else to check???????????????????

I had exactly what you are describing, only my car still made 6 psi.  It was a disconnected stock BOV line.  You could hear the turbos sucking in air (the characteristic turbo whine), but the BOV was just dumping the air into the pre-turbo side of the intake.  If your BOV vents to atmosphere, then it would be dumping out there and your car would run very* rich (possibly causing the smoke you are seeing - unburned fuel).

> Any ideas would truly, TRULY be appreciated!!! 
> Thanks in advance.

I'm placing my bets on the BOV.  :-)

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 10:59:02 1999
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From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Gauge placement
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 13:59:41 -0400
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I'm intending to have 3 gauges installed in my car, 1 boost, 2 EGTs. I would
like to have them mounted in the valleys between the 3 stock VR-4 gauges.
I've seen a type of pod mount from Japan, ( I believe on Henry Yam's page),
but that is only for right side driver seat cars.

Anyone know of any such mounts for US cars? Any suggestions on how/where to
get it custom done?

Anyone else interested for maybe a group purchase from a custom shop?

Thanks,
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 12:28:51 1999
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From: "Carlos Q" <pir8ska@shadow.net>
To: <robby@swissonline.ch>,
        "Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 15:36:29 -0400
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When i bought my Greddy Type S bov from the dynamic turbo people, i asked
about that, they told me that that second port is to use the valve as a "pop
off valve". i have no idea what this means.... please enlighten me  =)

Carlos

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@swissonline.ch>
To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, October 08, 1999 4:59 PM
Subject: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question


>I got the Greddy Type S BOV (well more a BPV) today and during the
installation
>I found myself in saying ... "why the heck does the thing have to vacuum
ports"
>?? I took the thing apart (yes, I take everything apart to find out what's
>inside, hehe) and I noticed that the second port goes to the intake side of
the
>valve. But I just don't know what hose I should connect to the port. Any
ideas
>??
>
>Thanks,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 14:08:20 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
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-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, October 13, 1999 8:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!

Hi Al,

I would try to inspect the BOV assembly.  Replace the origional factory BOV
assembly and lines to OEM specs.
Since you're getting the turbos to spin, the air has to go somewhere right?
It could be your valve for whatever reason is open and not letting boost
build
up in the intake plenium.

Good luck
-Noble

PS: Worn seals doesn't mean you won't get any boost.:)


>Hey everyone,
>
>    First of all, I would like to thank each and EVERY one of you who
replied
>(via privately or to the list) to my post.  I truly appreciate all of your
>suggestions!!!
>
>Update:  My buddy (Mitsu. mechanic) and I checked everything out again.
>Here's my status:
>
>1)  The wastegates are healthy/fine; they are not stuck open; tested &
>appeared    operable.
>2)  The turbos seem fine as well; we did a visual on both turbos'
compressor
>side    wheels; they spun freely with no play; we also started up the car
and
>gave some   throttle to see if the compressor side of the turbos were
>circulating air; and sure   enough these turbos were circulating a PLENTY
of
>air;  which made us believe     that the exhaust/hot side of the turbos are
>healthy;  Because IF I had a problem    with my exhaust/hot side of the
>turbine wheels, we guessed that the compressor  side would also be seized
up
>or somewhat problematic; that was NOT the case;     they seem to spin
freely
>therefore seem fine/healthy.  (Removal of Turbos will be    my absolute
LAST,
>last resort).
>3)  We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses that lead to the y-pipe; we
>also    pressure tested the hoses that lead to the intercoolers; everything
>checked out     healthy/fine!  No leaks were found and the clamps were all
>tight!!
>4)  We even by-passed my GReddy Profec B boost controller and set my stock
>boost system up; we also checked the stock boost solenoid; So my GReddy
>boost controller checked out okay/fine.  Still NO Boost!!!
>5)  During my initial post re: this problem I mentioned that we tested my
>Apex'i  Sequential blow off valve with a Mighty VAC; and that checked out
>okay/fine as    well; but I will try my stock blow off valve sometime soon.
>
>So everything mechanical checked out okay!!??  Which leads me to believe,
"do
>I have an electrical/ECU problem????"   Any thoughts from you guys?????
>
>My next plan of attack:
>
>1)  Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about 7,000 miles
>old); I'm   wondering if my rear plugs are real fouled up or faulty???  Due
>to how rich (HKS    fuel pump and 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to
>possible worn valve     seals??????   IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark
plugs
>again; maybe I should   NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at     stock/factory
>gap??????
>2)  Compression test
>3)  replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov.  (worth a try)
>4)  Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be the cause of
>this                                            problem??????????? ( I
highly
>doubt it)  But Roger, you mentioned before if I'm   running too rich????
>Can I just unplug the AFC?  since there is no Power OFF.
>5)  Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's defective?????  (I'm just reaching for
>ideas!)
>6)  don't know what else to check???????????????????
>
>Any ideas would truly, TRULY be appreciated!!!
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4   -  Going thru some major withdrawals!!!!!  I
am
>driving a VR4 with NO BOOST!!!!!   and some smoke at ocassional
deceleration
>and stops (I believe this is due to possible worn valve seals).
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 15:01:43 1999
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From: "Accelerated Accessories" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Need Burnt ECU
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 18:10:35 -0400
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I need a transistor out of a 1991-1993 TT ECU.  The ECU can be bad as =
long as the ignition drivers are still O.K.  Please call if you can help =
me.  Thanks in advance.

Matt
301-393-8800
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I need a transistor out of a =
1991-1993 TT=20
ECU.&nbsp; The ECU can be bad as long as the ignition drivers are still=20
O.K.&nbsp; Please call if you can help me.&nbsp; Thanks in =
advance.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Matt</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>301-393-8800</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.AcceleratedAccessories.com">www.AcceleratedAccessories=
.com</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_0141_01BF15A6.3F4B09E0--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 13 19:00:11 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <Brian@GTPRO.COM>
Subject: Team3S: Pictures of Carbon fiber hood and body panel fitments.
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 1999 21:02:45 -0500
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http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/99bodypanels.htm
New Page 2

This is a quick fitment before the car goes to the body shop for paintwork.

Brad
Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 00:57:11 1999
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> 3)  We also plugged up (one at time) the hoses that lead to the y-pipe; we
> also    pressure tested the hoses that lead to the intercoolers; everything
> checked out     healthy/fine!  No leaks were found and the clamps were all
> tight!!

Ok, there is only one hose that goes into the y-pipe :-) Pulling the hoses from
the ellbow and capping off the nipple will keep the wastegates closed..... if
the WG actuators spring are still strong enough.

> 5)  During my initial post re: this problem I mentioned that we tested my
> Apex'i  Sequential blow off valve with a Mighty VAC; and that checked out
> okay/fine as    well; but I will try my stock blow off valve sometime soon.

Yes, it works but I's say it is probably open too early and causes the air to
blow out even at low boost. As the BOVs work with the pressure differential
between the y-pipe and the intake plenum the feeder line may be a problem.

> So everything mechanical checked out okay!!??  Which leads me to believe, "do
> I have an electrical/ECU problem????"   Any thoughts from you guys?????

No, I doubt this, although the ECU may be in the emergency program. With this no
boost will be generated as the ignition and fuel maps are very low values and do
not create a lot of power. As my car was in this situation, I was not able to
create anything above atm ! Have you already tried to reset the ECU (I guess so)
or are you able to get the codes scanned ? Maybe you can borrow a TMO datalogger
(works on your year !) or maybe you already have one :-)

> 1)  Check all Spark plugs (Current NGK's gapped at .032 about 7,000 miles
> old); I'm   wondering if my rear plugs are real fouled up or faulty???  Due
> to how rich (HKS    fuel pump and 550cc .injectors) I was running or due to
> possible worn valve     seals??????   IF I REPLACE with new NGK's spark plugs
> again; maybe I should   NOT re-gap to .032 and leave at     stock/factory
> gap??????

No, problems related to this causes stumble or hesitation but you will always
see boost !

> 2)  Compression test

Good... maybe a lot carbon deposits on the intake valves that prevents them from
closing.

> 3)  replace my Apex'i bov with stock bov.  (worth a try)

Yes, yes !

> 4)  Is there a setting on my new Apex'i Super AFC that may be the cause of
> this                                            problem??????????? ( I highly
> doubt it)  But Roger, you mentioned before if I'm   running too rich????
> Can I just unplug the AFC?  since there is no Power OFF.

No, I may misspelled somethign as again, this would cause a stumble or
hesitation but boost must be there in any way. You can simply reconnect the MAS
wire you spliced the AFC in but I doubt the problem is here. What are your A/F
readings. If they are rich and no sign of dangerous lean even around atm I doubt
that the problem is related to fuel.

> 5)  Are my Magnecore 8.5 mm. KV85's defective?????  (I'm just reaching for
> ideas!)

Again, hesitation would be what you'd feel.

> 6)  don't know what else to check???????????????????

I think everything is narrowed down to the BOV and related to the lines and
hoses around it (simply said: a leak in the y-pipe) OR the ECU is in the
emergency mode. This mode is activated if too much knock is counted over a
specific time (repeated). If everything is back to good again, it heals itselfs
and comes back. Usually a Check Engine light comes up but I'd not bet on this as
I also runned in this mode without any light twice (note: before the rebuild...)
I for sure wish to see a datalog so maybe a DSM owner is in your area to help
you out.

Good luck and let us know about the stock BPV (easy test)
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 07:08:21 1999
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From: "Ryan Floyd" <FloydR@dvn.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Mileage question
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When I bought my 92 RT/TT I was getting around 30MPG.  Everything was stock that I was aware of.  My tranny died and I replaced it, my transfer case, and since it was in the shop anyway I put on a K&N FIPK, Accel Thundersport wires (I didn't know about Magnacores) Timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and plugs.  I wanted NGK's but I needed to have my car back so I settled for Rapidfire plugs, and I had them gapped to .034.  (cause I am getting ready to up the boost) Problem is that now I get 15MPG.  I verified this today.  75 miles 5 gallons.  My question is: do those plugs just suck, or do they suck and the gap need to be readjusted, or is my problem something else, I run 93 octane so with my 150 mile commute this is getting expensive quick.  Any help??  

Ryan

MCSE/ASE     

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 07:31:47 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question
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Guys I know 30Mpg sounds unbelieveable... but I verified it, however I was also shifting at 2 grand through all the gears, which I was told was bad on the oil pressure, now I shift around 2700 and the pressure is fine, but the mileage shouldn't drop by more than 10 just cause of 700 rpm.  Okay so now I have a sub question...  NGK or NGK platinum??  Does anyone have an Autozone or an O'Reilly Autoparts store near that they can actually verify the part numbers???  (I only ask cause the guys that work around here are idiots!)  And also does this mean that I should get 18-25 with the plugs gapped down??  Or is that stock gap?

MCSE/ASE     

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 08:12:35 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Ryan Floyd'" <FloydR@dvn.com>, jbasol@Carlson.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 08:11:34 -0700
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Ryan...

Well, you must have a very light foot and keep the speed down to 55 mph to
get 30 mpg. I managed to get 21 mpg once (when my engine was stock). That
was on a 800 mile drive to San Francisco, with speeds up to 145 mph, and I
did try to keep it in sixth (painful). I rarely get out of third gear,
fourth is for speeds above 85 mph. Fifth and sixth have been used less than
ten times in the last two years. Just a difference in driving habits, but
then, mine is not a commuter car. Now, to answer your questions:

1. Yes, you should expect your gas mileage to drop with a tighter gap, but
15 mpg is a huge drop with all other variables remaining the same.
2. You should have NGK double platinums. The correct part number is: NGK
PFR6J-11
3. The stock gap is .044", a gap of .034" should work fine for 15 psi.

Pull one of the front ones, check the part number, check the gap. Some shops
are VERY sloppy.

BTW...I now average 11 - 12 mpg, around town, which is 90+% of the driving I
do. I tend to cruise at 4500 rpm so I can use the compression to slow me
down (saving my brakes). I love that range from 4000 rpm to 6000 rpm, can't
imagine not using it constantly.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Ryan Floyd [mailto:FloydR@dvn.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 7:24 AM
To: jbasol@Carlson.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question


Guys I know 30Mpg sounds unbelieveable... but I verified it, however I was
also shifting at 2 grand through all the gears, which I was told was bad on
the oil pressure, now I shift around 2700 and the pressure is fine, but the
mileage shouldn't drop by more than 10 just cause of 700 rpm.  Okay so now I
have a sub question...  NGK or NGK platinum??  Does anyone have an Autozone
or an O'Reilly Autoparts store near that they can actually verify the part
numbers???  (I only ask cause the guys that work around here are idiots!)
And also does this mean that I should get 18-25 with the plugs gapped down??
Or is that stock gap?

MCSE/ASE     

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 08:31:23 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 09:56:34 -0500
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Man Chris you REALLY like to stay in that 'zone' don't ya ;)p.  You must be
like the stop-light king or something in yer area (not like that's a bad
thing mind ya ;)p.

I used to get around 21 - 24 mpg city, and could get close to 30 on the
high-way (doing speeds of around 80 - 100).  But ever since I put on the
underdrive pulley I've been getting less now (but I think that's due to me
'testing' it out soo often ;)p.  I think I'm getting close to 20 now, but
I'll find out after this current tank of gas.

Some interesting news for you non-turbo fans out there (like myself :), I've
been posting a few items on www.3000gt.com discussion group regarding what
I've found can be done to the non-turbo's, and a gentleman was telling me
about how there's a shop where he lives with a friend of his that is custom
making a down-pipe for him.  I'm asking him to email me after he gets it and
puts it on to see what the quality of it's like.  But if it's good, this is
good news for us non-turbo peoplez :).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 11:04:05 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine Braking; was: Mileage question
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 11:02:00 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
---------snip-------
>do. I tend to cruise at 4500 rpm so I can use the compression to
slow me
>down (saving my brakes). I love that range from 4000 rpm to 6000
rpm, can't
>imagine not using it constantly.

Just an FYI...  I run constantly at around 4000 rpm too, and always
use engine braking to slow down, but I'm using downshifting much
less than I used to.  I saw a TV show about a year ago, with some
old racer talking about 'how to get the most out of your car', or
somesuch...  He said that normal engine braking is fine for a car,
but if you downshift to slow down, you're adding stress on the
components.  The recommendation was that you should be using the
brakes for 90% of the slowing process, and the lower gear should be
shifted AS you are reaching the desired speed-- anticipating
acceleration through a corner, for example.

That said, I admit that I still use (multiple) downshifting when I'm
out 'playing'--  I almost finished off my passenger Darcy's back
once, with whip shifts from 5th thru 2nd trying to follow a faster
AWD car into a diminishing radius off-ramp at about 100mph-- a car
driven by a guy named Winkley, I recall!  :-)  But for most stuff,
now I use just the brakes.  The rationale, the guy said, is that
brakes are LOTS cheaper than transmissions.  Can you spell
G-E-T-R-A-G?  :-)

Best,

Forrest




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 14:50:26 1999
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Reply-To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mileage question
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 23:22:19 +0200
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Chris, cruising at 4500 ??? Wow, this is why my 15psi running car now puts
out 28 mpg as on the highway I'm cruising at 2800-3000. On the german
autobahn mileage is getting very bad with speeds around 150 and more. During
my ecessive testings the last weeks mileage went down to about 18mpg :-(

>1. Yes, you should expect your gas mileage to drop with a tighter gap, but
>15 mpg is a huge drop with all other variables remaining the same.

I fully agree ! Mileage drops a little with the small gap but not a lot.
Even more, the Splitfires or Rapidfires are not good on our cars. I got the
Rapidfires for the Camaro and they work very well. I then got them for the
3000 too and got hesitation a fuel smeeling, i.e. not well burnt fuel.

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 14:50:28 1999
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Reply-To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Greddy Type S BOV or just simple BOV question
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 23:28:50 +0200
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>When i bought my Greddy Type S bov from the dynamic turbo people, i asked
>about that, they told me that that second port is to use the valve as a
"pop
>off valve". i have no idea what this means.... please enlighten me  =)

A pop-off valve is a valve that opens at a specific boost to prevent
overboosting. But I opened the Greddy BOV and checked the internals. But I
just cannot understand what this port does if it would be connected to the
boost source. Anyways, it works good with the port open :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 17:20:16 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Cc: Stealth List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:19:24 -0700
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Roger...

Are you still using the stock injectors? My driving style remained the same,
but my mileage dropped by roughly 25% (from 15-16 down to 11-12) when I
changed my injectors and fuel pump.

BTW...I imagine I'd get better mileage if I was cruising at any steady speed
(even the wonderful speeds you have on the autobahn) but most of my driving
is city driving. Start and stop, 0 to 60, 60 to 0, 0 to 100, OR even worse,
0 to 30, 30 to 10, 10 to 20 (commuter traffic). Probably the worst fuel
economy type of driving

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 2:22 PM
To: Stealth List
Subject: Re: Team3S: Mileage question

Chris, cruising at 4500 ??? Wow, this is why my 15psi running car now puts
out 28 mpg as on the highway I'm cruising at 2800-3000. On the german
autobahn mileage is getting very bad with speeds around 150 and more. During
my ecessive testings the last weeks mileage went down to about 18mpg :-(
<snip>

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 17:39:35 1999
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From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question
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Hi Chris and All...

Speaking of losing miles per gallon due to larger
injectors and pump... I actually retained or even
getting better milege with the RC 550s and HKS/Cusmo
pump..

I think its due to the ARC-2GP's awesome ability to
control larger injestors.  With the ARM1 (A/F
monitor), I'm (with help from Brian of GTPro) able to
tune the ARC-2GP unit to run the car rich @ high
boosts (i know, i know Roger, wasting fuel/energy~
hehe..) and good mixture when the car idles and at
city/hwy driving.. I havent touched the setting for
months now.. and it runs great when im just crusing..
and awesome when I need to out-run that V8!! =)

Stock fuel system: 17-20 MPG
ARC, 550s, pump: 19-21 MPG
(a day at the track: 6-8 MPG!!)

George
check out my homepage:
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

--- Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> wrote:
> Roger...
>
> Are you still using the stock injectors? My driving
> style remained the same,
> but my mileage dropped by roughly 25% (from 15-16
> down to 11-12) when I
> changed my injectors and fuel pump.
>
> BTW...I imagine I'd get better mileage if I was
> cruising at any steady speed
> (even the wonderful speeds you have on the autobahn)
> but most of my driving
> is city driving. Start and stop, 0 to 60, 60 to 0, 0
> to 100, OR even worse,
> 0 to 30, 30 to 10, 10 to 20 (commuter traffic).
> Probably the worst fuel
> economy type of driving
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 2:22 PM
> To: Stealth List
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Mileage question
>
> Chris, cruising at 4500 ??? Wow, this is why my
> 15psi running car now puts
> out 28 mpg as on the highway I'm cruising at
> 2800-3000. On the german
> autobahn mileage is getting very bad with speeds
> around 150 and more. During
> my ecessive testings the last weeks mileage went
> down to about 18mpg :-(
> <snip>
>
> Later
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 19:51:58 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: The Goose is Gone!
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 20:47:45 -0600
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Hi All,
    My baby just survived her 60k service.  Thanks to all for warnings and
advice!  I had the tensioner and water pump replaced.  As I rolled onto the
freeway, I noticed the absence of the Honking Goose!  Not sure what made the
difference, but my Goose used to appear in first and second gear under any
acceleration, but no more...

Thanks again everyone,
Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 14 22:53:51 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 01:53:25 EDT
Subject: Team3S: warranty problems
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Hi everyone
I would like to get some opinions about the  problems that I have to deal
with.
My rack pinion die on me and the warranty company doesn't want to pay for new
(Mits. offers only new) and they want to put a reman. Aftermarket.
do I have any other choices? Maybe a used  mits. from M&S?
Also I need new front brake calipers (I have a base 3000gt). Can I just
switch to 94 and after calipers with any modifications? what are the
differences?
I took also  the car to the dealer this morning to change the A/C clutch and
he told me that i need new A/C pulley,tensioner and A/C belt. he told me the
warranty covers only the clutch and not the rest. i thought the clutch was
coming with the pulley, and i had in my 60K tune up (done in 65700m. in
different  dealership, now i the car has 810000) and i change the A/C
belt.how can go bad after 15000miles
plus my timing belt start to making noises.
Also, I am on the market for new tires. Does anyone remember the website that
had some comparisons?
Finally, do i have to worry about anything else (change it under warranty)
before my warranty is over?
thanks in advance
petros
3si#126
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 05:43:03 1999
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Date: Thu, 14 Oct 1999 08:45:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Team3S: Pictures of Carbon fiber hood and body panel fitments.
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wow, the hood looks good... and I can't believe you really are doing the
full 99 conversion.. how did you get the 99 top/B pillar in?
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 06:56:45 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: warranty problems
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 09:00:47 -0500
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> My rack pinion die on me and the warranty company doesn't
> want to pay for new (Mits. offers only new) and they want
> to put a reman. Aftermarket.  do I have any other choices?
> Maybe a used  mits. from M&S?

Check over your warranty contract.  There's probably fine print in there that says they can substitute aftermarket parts if they wish.  If not, then I would force them to do it the same way the dealership would do it - with factory originals.

> Also I need new front brake calipers (I have a base 3000gt).
> Can I just switch to 94 and after calipers with any
> modifications? what are the differences?

I'm pretty sure you need the 17x8.5 wheels to put VR4 calipers on there or they won't clear the wheels.

> I took also  the car to the dealer this morning to change the
> A/C clutch and he told me that i need new A/C pulley,tensioner
> and A/C belt.  he told me the warranty covers only the clutch
> and not the rest. i thought the clutch was coming with the
> pulley, and i had in my 60K tune up (done in 65700m. in
> different  dealership, now i the car has 810000) and i change
> the A/C belt.how can go bad after 15000miles
> plus my timing belt start to making noises.

I'd take it back to the original dealer that did the timing belt and AC belt and make them fix their mistake.  It sounds like they put too much tension on the AC belt.  They should also re-do the timing belt if it is making noises or tension doesn't seem correct.  If they refuse, a nice little lawsuit should change their mind - sue for the money to have it redone, don't let them redo it.

> Also, I am on the market for new tires. Does anyone remember
> the website that had some comparisons?  Finally, do i have to
> worry about anything else (change it under warranty)
> before my warranty is over?

If you manage to get all that stuff "covered" somehow, then I'd pay for them to put in a new water pump at the same time as they are doing the timing belt.  Very easy to do, since they are all the way in there anyway.

-Matt
95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 07:25:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:24:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
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hello all,

    Well, I think I have serious problems.  I took apart my Apex'i sequential
blow off valve to install the stock one; I found LOTS of oil within my Apex'i
unit; all the oil dripped out of the bov; I am beginning to think that my
Turbo seals are shot????????  I went ahead and installed the stock bov and
sure enough.....STILL NO BOOST!!!!!  I do NOT think I should even spend the
time and money on replacing my spark plugs again (That was my next plan of
attack-I don't think it will do anything); I have a real BAD feeling about
this.....

A very disappointed,

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 07:39:11 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 09:43:13 -0500
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>     Well, I think I have serious problems.  I took apart my
> Apex'i sequential blow off valve to install the stock one;
> I found LOTS of oil within my Apex'i unit; all the oil
> dripped out of the bov; I am beginning to think that my
> Turbo seals are shot????????  I went ahead and installed the
> stock bov and sure enough.....STILL NO BOOST!!!!!  I do NOT
> think I should even spend the time and money on replacing my
> spark plugs again (That was my next plan of attack-I don't
> think it will do anything); I have a real BAD feeling about
> this.....

That doesn't sound good...  I'd try a compression test on at least the front three cylinders.  If those look OK, I'd do the rear three as well.  That should at least help narrow it down to either a turbo problem or piston/ring/etc problem.  Sounds a lot like what RG had with his blown pistons/rings.  :-(

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 07:44:10 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'TurboDrvn@aol.com'" <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, robby@swissonline.ch
Subject: RE: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 07:43:22 -0700
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Ahmed...

Are you blowing oil out the exhaust? That was my symptom when I spun the
bearings on my first set of 15Gs.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 7:24 AM
To: robby@swissonline.ch
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!


hello all,

    Well, I think I have serious problems.  I took apart my Apex'i
sequential
blow off valve to install the stock one; I found LOTS of oil within my
Apex'i
unit; all the oil dripped out of the bov; I am beginning to think that my
Turbo seals are shot????????  I went ahead and installed the stock bov and
sure enough.....STILL NO BOOST!!!!!  I do NOT think I should even spend the
time and money on replacing my spark plugs again (That was my next plan of
attack-I don't think it will do anything); I have a real BAD feeling about
this.....

A very disappointed,

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 07:48:48 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'George Kuo'" <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Cc: Stealth List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question/ARC
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 07:47:55 -0700
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George...

Can you provide a little more detail about the ARC unit? It seems I saw a
brief description some time back, but I can't locate it. Does it replace the
MAS like the AFC? Direct plug in? Or? Fits all generations?

Also, some more information on your mods as a point of comparison?

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: George Kuo [mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 5:40 PM
To: Stealth List
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question


Hi Chris and All...

Speaking of losing miles per gallon due to larger
injectors and pump... I actually retained or even
getting better milege with the RC 550s and HKS/Cusmo
pump..

I think its due to the ARC-2GP's awesome ability to
control larger injestors.  With the ARM1 (A/F
monitor), I'm (with help from Brian of GTPro) able to
tune the ARC-2GP unit to run the car rich @ high
boosts (i know, i know Roger, wasting fuel/energy~
hehe..) and good mixture when the car idles and at
city/hwy driving.. I havent touched the setting for
months now.. and it runs great when im just crusing..
and awesome when I need to out-run that V8!! =)

Stock fuel system: 17-20 MPG
ARC, 550s, pump: 19-21 MPG
(a day at the track: 6-8 MPG!!)

George
check out my homepage:
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 07:49:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:48:45 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
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In a message dated 10/15/99 9:43:59 AM Central Daylight Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com writes:

<< Ahmed...

Are you blowing oil out the exhaust? That was my symptom when I spun the
bearings on my first set of 15Gs.

Looking forward...Chris >>

Hey Chris,

    Yes I am blowing oil out of the exhaust; I referred to that on my
previous posts thinking they were worn valve seals........but maybe not??? 
the oil smoke only occurs when I decelerate and sometimes at stop signs.....I
have NO oil (smoke) coming out of my exhaust when I accelerate and the RPM's
increase.......I'm thinking turbo seals or piston?????   NEED to do a
compression test soon!

Chris, when you spun the bearings on your 15G's..what type of frequency of
smoke did you have out of your exhaust???

I'll keep everyone posted,

Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 08:13:49 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: warranty problems
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 09:40:33 -0500
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A really good site for tires is www.tirerack.com :)


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 08:45:37 1999
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With regard to your warranty question and the steering rack, check your
warranty agreement to see if it gives the company the option of using
aftermarket parts.  If it does, then you are stuck.  If not, then you can
argue.

Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 08:52:17 1999
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From: TrboDrvr@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:51:46 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
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Ahmed:

    I think your problem is definitely the seals and bearings since that is
the only way you will get oil in your BOV.  Worn piston rings will cause you
to burn oil.  The oil will never get to your BOV (in fact, it has no way of
getting there from the cylinders unless your valve seats are extremely worn
in which your car would never run because of lack of compression).  Plus,
your symptoms are lack of boost and not lack of compression.  So I'd start
with the turbos.  I think you have a condition known as "blow by" where your
turbo seals are gone and the oil is "blowing by" them.  Just my 2 cents.

Joe 91 TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 09:08:52 1999
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From: "Dennis Moore" <stealth@quixnet.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:52:08 -0500
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Subject: Team3S: Stealth for Sale
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Hi All,

As much as I love my Stealth, it's up for sale.  I'm moving "over the
water", and won't be taking it with me.  (If it's any consolation, I
hope to pick up a low-miles 3K Spyder when I get back...)

So, if you know of anyone looking for a fun ride, send them my
way.  Here are the particulars:

93 Stealth ES, 5-spd, Red w/Grey cloth interior, 111,000 miles,
AM/FM/Cass/CD-Changer, Firestone SZ-50's with less than 5k
miles on them.  The car is in Indiana, and has been garage kept all
of its life (including hibernating for most of the winter there).  Very
few city miles, <~20K.  Paint is in "B+/A-" condition with a couple
rock chips, no rips or tears in the interior.  Everything works, no
broken knobs or buttons.

Based on Kelly and Edmunds, I'm thinking US$7,250 is a good
starting point for asking price.  Comments?

You guys have saved me thousands in maintenance and repairs
over the years.  Thanks!  Glad I found this group (and starnet, back
in the good old days...)!

Dennis Moore
93 Stealth ES
stealth@quixnet.net
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 09:11:22 1999
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From: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
To: TrboDrvr@aol.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: warranty problems
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:14:07 -0500
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Joe is right - check the fine print of your warranty.  Since many extended
warranties are just glorified insurance policies, the common verbage may be
"like kind and quality" - or LKQ in insurance jargon.  Unfortunately, what
we (the customer) call "like kind and quality" and what they call LKQ are
NOT the same.  "Like kind and quality" on your standard comprehensive auto
insurance means rebuilt, or aftermarket, or even "used with comparable
milage and wear" - not "new from the factory".  So if you wreck your car and
crack the block, don't expect them to replace the motor with a new crate
motor - it won't happen.  Usually they'll only pay for a used engine with
similar (or maybe less) milage on it.  The same would be true if you trashed
the rack and pinion in a wreck.  I'm not familiar enough with extended
warranties to know what their usual terms are, but it's worth a close look.

Michael
"The bold print giveth, and the fine print taketh away."

> -----Original Message-----
> From: TrboDrvr@aol.com [SMTP:TrboDrvr@aol.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 10:45 AM
> To: Petrosvr4@aol.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: warranty problems
>
> With regard to your warranty question and the steering rack, check your
> warranty agreement to see if it gives the company the option of using
> aftermarket parts.  If it does, then you are stuck.  If not, then you can
> argue.
>
> Joe 91TT
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 09:11:40 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 12:11:10 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
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In a message dated 10/15/99 10:53:28 AM Central Daylight Time,
TrboDrvr@aol.com writes:

<< Ahmed:

     I think your problem is definitely the seals and bearings since that is
the only way you will get oil in your BOV.  Worn piston rings will cause you
to burn oil.  The oil will never get to your BOV (in fact, it has no way of
getting there from the cylinders unless your valve seats are extremely worn
in which your car would never run because of lack of compression).  Plus,
your symptoms are lack of boost and not lack of compression.  So I'd start
with the turbos.  I think you have a condition known as "blow by" where your
turbo seals are gone and the oil is "blowing by" them.  Just my 2 cents.

Joe 91 TT >>

I think you nailed it on the head, Joe!  But I still want to proceed with the
compression test .......and take it from there.......chances are......you are
totally right.....since I would NOT get oil in my BOV if it were an internal
motor problem (ex: piston rings, valve seals, etc.); everything is pointed
toward my turbos.....

I will keep everyone updated......thanks again to all who have advised
me......

Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 09:32:58 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 11:36:53 -0500
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>     I think your problem is definitely the seals and bearings
> since that is the only way you will get oil in your BOV.
> Worn piston rings will cause you to burn oil.  The oil will
> never get to your BOV (in fact, it has no way of getting
> there from the cylinders unless your valve seats are
> extremely worn in which your car would never run because of
> lack of compression).  Plus, your symptoms are lack of boost
> and not lack of compression.  So I'd start with the turbos.
> I think you have a condition known as "blow by" where your
> turbo seals are gone and the oil is "blowing by" them.  Just
> my 2 cents.

If it was just turbo seals, the car should still make boost.  The oil might not be coming into the intake from the turbos, it can also get in there from EGR and PCV if the rings aren't sealing the cylinders and are causing blowby.  Compression test is way easier than pulling off turbos, and Ahmed indicated that the wheels spun freely without play.  That would indicate the bearings at least should be fine, and the seals shouldn't leak enough to make the car produce no boost.  Still not sure why there's no boost, but compression is very easy to check and turbos seem to be ruled out at the moment from previous troubleshooting.

I could see one turbo seal going bad, but both at the same time?  Should still see boost even if only one turbo is functional.

Not saying you are wrong, just thinking that I would personally try the easier diagnostic tools before removing turbos to get a better idea of the health of the motor itself before looking at parts that typically don't fail bad enough to give these sorts of symptoms.

Look at Roger's page and see if this sounds familiar:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/engine_problems.html

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 10:02:39 1999
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Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 10:02:35 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Subject: Team3S: 120K service, problems
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Hi folks,

I'm glad Cory E.'s 60K service went well.  I fear mine did not :(.

I had my 120K service performed on my '91 VR4 Wednesday at 105K since my
waterpump, no doubt original, began leaking recently.  As an aside, all the
parts appeared to be in very good condition.  The old timing belt looked almost
unused even though it had been on there for 50K miles and presumably anti-freeze
had leaked on it.  Some of the idler pully bearings were at the noisy stage
though but with no play/sloppiness, they probably were 105K old too.

Anyway I suspect that the cams were not aligned properly since I have acquired
the following symptoms since the service:
1) car seems to surge mildly under moderate throttle and cruising
2) reduced torque below 2800RPM
3) seems to need more throttle & boost to maintain cruising speed
4) boost spools up faster and hits harder at 2800RPM
5) when I lift off the throttle, the rumbling from the muffler seems louder with
occasional mild backpopping
6) at idle the RPM seems to move around more (not just when the AC cycles)

These symptoms were non-existent prior to the service.  I fixed a leak in the
throttle body last night but notice no change ( I removed the gasket and turned
it around to the correct orientation, the leak & hissing disappeared).  I think
all other hoses are fine and installed correctly since I don't hear any hissing
or see any unconnected.

WOT accels seem fine, but there is less torque below 2800RPM, the boost seems to
hit harder at 2800, I can reach my set boost OK, but not always smooth,
sometimes overshoot a lot (i.e. that surging again), even though I attain set
boost, the car doesn't seem as quick.

Anyway, I'm soliciting your opinions.  I have my boost controller off now so
boost is at 6psi.  I don't think that the new belt, waterpump, pulleys &
bearings should have added so much drag on the engine to produce the above
symptoms.  I will notify my service manager today after I hear your
input/suggestions.

Thanks in advance,
Ken

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 10:09:43 1999
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Message-ID: <001601bf12a9$5161cc40$93811bce@rico>
From: "Ricardo Cousar" <rcousar@datawest.net>
To: "Sirius 3000GT Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Skyline question
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 1999 16:54:46 -0600
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I was just wondering if anyone knows who made the tranny for HK$ skyline, I
am pretty sure it's not stock so someone had to make it for them.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 10:49:28 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 120K service, problems
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 12:53:30 -0500
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> 1) car seems to surge mildly under moderate throttle and cruising
> 2) reduced torque below 2800RPM
> 3) seems to need more throttle & boost to maintain cruising speed
> 4) boost spools up faster and hits harder at 2800RPM
> 5) when I lift off the throttle, the rumbling from the
> muffler seems louder with
> occasional mild backpopping
> 6) at idle the RPM seems to move around more (not just when
> the AC cycles)

Sounds like the exhaust cam is off a tooth, and maybe the intake cam as well.  My previous car ('93 Eclipse GSX) did the same thing when I bought it, and I changed the timing belt immediately and found they had misaligned the cams by one tooth on the exhaust side.  Identical symptoms.  Very easy to have the misalignment occur if you don't use clips to hold the T-belt in place as you are aligning the cams as they will tend to rotate one tooth under their own pressure if not held in place by the T-belt.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 11:33:31 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Turbo Question
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 13:31:44 -0500
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Hi everybody,
It's been a while since I have played with mods on the Stealth and I
thought a quick report was due on how she is holding up, as well as what I
want to do next.
My first post this list indicated that I decided to try a mod that
hadn't been openly tried by many on the list, water injection.  A great
number of discussions ensued after my initial reports of how well the car
seemed to like 'getting' a little drink'.  :-)  So I thought  should perhaps
give a little bit of a long-term report.
The Spearco 980 water injection system was installed on my car the
first week of June.  Installation was simple right up to the point where I
had to find a spot for the water tank (finally located in the front air
dam).  It has now been a little more than 5 months since it was installed.
So far, so good.  The car still loves receiving a shower of water, just as
much today as when it was installed.  Since the installation I had one of
the nozzles clog, due to an improperly rinsed out tank (still had a metal
particle in it), and I had the pump itself give out.  I replaced the pump
with a large fuel pump, and started using a LOT more water.  The car still
loved this though.  It has been about 4 months since the pump replacement,
and that pump seems to be holding up much better.
Along with the WI system I designed a simple bandpass filter and
indicator to connect to the knock sensor signal wire coming inside the cabin
to the ECU.  At first repot this seemed to work great, but the long term was
not such a good story.  About 2 months ago I started to notice this very
slight 'misfire'.  It was not even noticable by others when I took them for
rides to demonstrate it, but to me it was a huge deal.  Thinking that it had
to be ignition related, I started researching new ignition components, but
after Roger's report about the B&M not helping any, I decided to let the
local dealer look at my problem.  What did they find?  The knock sensor was
bad.  How?  The dealer has no idea what could have caused this.  Me? I think
it was probably my little circuit attached to the line.  I promptly removed
said circuit while the part was being shipped in, and took it in to have the
new knock sensor installed without my circuit installed.  When I got the car
back, all was good again.  So now I have an LED monitoring the boost control
solenoid..., not as effective, but until Todd Day decides to make a
datalogger for those of us unfortunate enough to own 94+ cars, this will
have to do.
Now for what's next.  I have no intention of making this machine an
all out drag car, I have different avenue to travel with that, but maximum
street performance....That's what I'm after.  I feel pretty comfortable
saying the car is currently pulling about 410hp, but I want some more.  :-)
To take the car further than it's current state is going to require the
removal of my all-too-tiny-9B turbos  and install something with some more
punch.  My problem...streetability.  13G's seem nice, but I want a little
more.  The 15G's I have heard have noticably more lag to them.  The price
difference between the two is not really enough to justify using 13G's
either.  So what about a middle ground?
As I'm driving to work this morning in my commuter car (a 1st Gen
DSM w/ a manual boost controller), I commented to wife: "Damn I love how
this things pulls so strong to the redline."  It hit me like a
rock...14B's!?!  The first Gen DSMs use a single 14B turbo that on that 2.0
liter four is capable of holding 17-18psi easy to the line.  Cost?  Damn...I
have seen those things going on the DSM trader for 100-200 a piece.  Will
those things bolt to our manifold?  Seems to me they might be a good
intermediate step.  A set of 14Bs, 550cc injectors, Supra fuel pump, and an
AFC...could make for a nice little machine to play Viper tag with.  :-)


John Basol
System Management Services

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 11:45:42 1999
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From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question/ARC
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Hi Chris,

The following is copied from an email from Brian @
GTPro:

<<snip>>
-----------------------------------------------------

This unit as I told you is FAR SUPERIOR to the VPC.
In my opinion, the VPC SUCKS!, what the VPC does is
convert the MAF system to a speed density system, and
it does this through signal manipulation, but
some stuff gets lost in the conversion. The net result
is good WOT, but a BIG sacrifice in daily drivability,
and throttle response. The VPC tends to be a
little "lazy" esspecially in the throttle response
area. The ARC-2GP solves ALL of these problems. You
will have PERFECT drivability, throttle response,
and WOT. The reason is that since we are only
converting to a "hot wire" style MAF system vs a
Karman Vortex style system (stock Mitsu), we are
still using a MAF signal that the factory ECU can
handle. Through carefull signal conditioning, and
manipulation the ARC-2GP will yeild the correct
signals to the ECU. The factory ECU is mapped for a
MAF signal, and once you try to send it speed density
modified signals, it is not right. I can tell you
this, I have SOO mush confidence that you are going to
LOVE the ARC-2GP system, I will give you your money
back if you don't like what it does to your car, and
you want to install a VPC instead. I gaurantee you
that
if youhad a VPC to try, and we hooked up the VPC
first, and tuned it, then ripped it out and then
installed the ARC-2GP, you will see a DRAMATIC
difference in the way the car responds, and you'll end
up keeping the ARC-2GP on the car.
------------------------------------------------------
<<snip>>

You can find more info on this unit on
www.splitsec.com.  I believe this unit can fit ALL
years of 3S, TT or NA.  I think Roger knows alot about
this unit and can answer most of your questions since
I'm pretty much mechanically-challenged and Brian
doesnt belong to this List anymore.  All I can tell
you is that I drive my '92 RT TT every single day and
the drivability is like stock!!

My current mods: ARC-2GP MAF kit with a HUGE 12in long
K&N, RC550s, HKS pump, 13Gs, Greddy plugs @ 0.034,
Vitek wires, forged rods and pistons, treated crank,
DSBC - 1.3 bar of boost and stock Y pipe still holds!!

George
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

--- Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> wrote:
> George...
>
> Can you provide a little more detail about the ARC
> unit? It seems I saw a
> brief description some time back, but I can't locate
> it. Does it replace the
> MAS like the AFC? Direct plug in? Or? Fits all
> generations?
>
> Also, some more information on your mods as a point
> of comparison?
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George Kuo [mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Thursday, October 14, 1999 5:40 PM
> To: Stealth List
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Mileage question
>
>
> Hi Chris and All...
>
> Speaking of losing miles per gallon due to larger
> injectors and pump... I actually retained or even
> getting better milege with the RC 550s and HKS/Cusmo
> pump..
>
> I think its due to the ARC-2GP's awesome ability to
> control larger injestors.  With the ARM1 (A/F
> monitor), I'm (with help from Brian of GTPro) able
> to
> tune the ARC-2GP unit to run the car rich @ high
> boosts (i know, i know Roger, wasting fuel/energy~
> hehe..) and good mixture when the car idles and at
> city/hwy driving.. I havent touched the setting for
> months now.. and it runs great when im just
> crusing..
> and awesome when I need to out-run that V8!! =)
>
> Stock fuel system: 17-20 MPG
> ARC, 550s, pump: 19-21 MPG
> (a day at the track: 6-8 MPG!!)
>
> George
> check out my homepage:
> www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html
> <snip>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


=====

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Bid and sell for free at http://auctions.yahoo.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 11:49:01 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'Basol, John'" <jbasol@Carlson.com>,
        "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Question
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 13:53:00 -0500
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> It hit me like a rock...14B's!?!  The first Gen DSMs use a single
> 14B turbo that on that 2.0 liter four is capable of holding
> 17-18psi easy to the line.  Cost?  Damn...I have seen those
> things going on the DSM trader for 100-200 a piece.  Will
> those things bolt to our manifold?  Seems to me they might be a
> good intermediate step.  A set of 14Bs, 550cc injectors, Supra
> fuel pump, and an AFC...could make for a nice little machine to
> play Viper tag with.  :-)

If you could find a 14B that is set up reversed for the rear bank, then you might have a shot at it.  Haven't ever seen one that's opposite of the DSM style though.  I think it'd be fairly easy to get the front one on, probably using some form of adaptor plate (or pre-cat eliminator) to the downpipe, but the rear is a whole 'nother challenge.  If you could find something that'll work, the 14B should provide enough flow to keep the boost up, but remember that it'll also be getting .5 liters less input flow than on a DSM, so it'll likely spool up later.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 13:49:48 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hats & Tees shipping today (Off-topic)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 13:48:47 -0700
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The shirts finally arrived from the printer, so all of you who
placed orders should have your hats and shirts in a few days.  For
those of you who still haven't placed orders, check out the Team3S
Hats & Tees page at:

www.bobforrest.com/Team3S-Hats&Tees.htm

Note:  They made the shirts even BETTER than I designed them, with
the silver grey over red now being a sparkly metallic silver over a
shiny red...  VERY cool!

Best to all,

Forrest






For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 14:33:02 1999
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References: <19991015184552.2427.rocketmail@web601.yahoomail.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC2-GP information (looong)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 23:31:00 +0200
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> I think Roger knows alot about this unit and can answer most of your
questions since

Ahem ... ok ... let's lift the curtain :

You guys know that I once compared the ARC2-GP and the VPC to each other as
I was not sure if the VPC/GCC was the proper solution for my car. I then had
many conversations with SplitSecond and people who runned the HKS stuff and
never came to a real conclusion.

Introduction :
As many of us are using the car as a daily driver, it was very important to
me to find a good ALL-SEASON solution. The idea getting a second 3S car and
converting one into a racing monster failed money-wise and therefore the
3000 TT should be become a real fast, Porsche/BMW/Ferrari/and
whatever-killer. Over the time of my investigation the more the answers I
got from SplitSec made more sense. This lead me to the conclusion to sell
the VPC and to get an ARC2-GP (GP is the version for our cars) to be able to
drive in a temp range from 5 - 100°F with many feets of snow or burning sun.

Installation :
A few weeks ago I got the kit form GT PRO and installed it in the car. The
hardest part was to get the wiring harnes into the pass compartment. This,
because I have sooo many wires through the holes (WI, Power for the AMP,
etc.). The instructions given are 1st class and cover BOTH 1st and 2nd gen
cars !! Even the pin layout of both generations is given and the kit comes
with all connectors needed. Well, it's always good to have some spare
connectors around as I once connected to the wrong white wire at the ECU (O2
sensor). The kit consists of the MAF that replaces the MAS, the ARC fuel
controller, the ARM-1 A/F meter and a K&N filter. I still had the Blitz SUS
filter with the VPC adapter and I machined the adapter to make it fit the
MAF. Looks and works damn good but the SUS scratched my underhood isolation
:-( This is why I got a test filter from Apexi (for free !!) that has very
good filtering and power results. Unfortunately, the outlet of the filter is
SMALLER in diameter than the MAF so I will have to see what can be done. The
outside diameter of the Apexi power filter is about 1/2" smaller and
therefore would perfectly fit. We'll see. The A/F meter is simply spliced
into one of the O2 sensor wires and works pretty good. I was very sceptical
and of course I opened it and studied the electronics. Basically it is the
same as any other 10 LED A/F meter and it uses the same components as cheap
A/F meters. But it contains additional input filters that allows quick
response with good noise reduction but also steady reading under WOT. A good
solution ... but I have to dim it down as the blue LEDs are mirroring in the
windshield at night and if the rich LED lights up it looks like a cop
switched on his lights behind me ;-) ... something shocking, haha.

Also I was disapointed at first as the MAF did not came with a barometric
nor temperature sensor in its housing. I immediatly saw the thing not
working in different ambient. Again conversation was necessary and
SplitSecond answered ALL questions. They were able to tell me how the MAF
works and the ARC is able to see temp and barometric differences for
compensating.

The wires to be spliced in or hooked up are simple as the ARC simulates the
MAS signal (1), gives a constant voltage for the temperature (2) and
barometric sensor (3) as well as TPS (4). The later is only used for the
idle setting and it's input range is from 0-0.5Volt. Day for day I tried to
setup the idle and it didn't worked ... well my TPS was at 0.66V at idle. I
turned the TPS sensor a few degrees and am getting 0.48V now, perfect for
the ARC and without any side effects.

Tuning it in :
After installation, it was not easy to find a good idle setting and it
runned a long time very rich ("smoke on the water" would be the right song)
or it just died. The ARC has four knobs where you control the behaviour of
the ARC. Again, the instructions tell you exactly what to do but the initial
settings lead me into the worng direction. This because the GP version of
the ARC has a wider range for injectors and this makes you able to run from
stock 360cc injectors up to 720cc "dumpers". Not only my car but also others
prove that it works with the stock setup very well and if you'd do it
yourself let me know and I send you my settings that work ... very good !
Tuning in the response as well upper behaviour is not that easy as our cars
are "sensible" (or is it just the ECU ?) Decreasing one setting 2% may cause
increase another 4% and so on. At this point, the datalogger was very
helpful as I tried to set a close to rich condition at WOT with stoich
condition at cruising and idle. I reached this setting and made a log. The
injectors were then only around 60-75% and a lot of knock appeared at 15psi.
Knock became lower and lower the more I increased the fuel curve until I got
the same curve as I had with the stock setup ! I then increased fuel even
more and .... runned into fuel cut. No knock, good timing but fuel cut. This
proves the theory that the ECU doesn't like heavily maxed out injectors over
a longer period.

Findings :
As said, the steps are in 2% from -20 to +20%. Sometimes, I just wished to
have a 1% step setting as with only one click the misture stayed rich and
with another it became lean. But driving around and playing with the knobs
helps and after a few days you have a good result. My runs with the
datalogger showed that with the stock injectors I was able to increase the
injectors pulsing rate more quickly than stock. This resulted in more
feelable power after shifting and in the mid band from 4000-5000. I was also
able to cure a little of my turbos lag by giving a bit more fuel. When
cruising around I've set the mixture to stoich and guess what, my fiorst
long run test showed 28mpg. A mix with a lot high boosting tests and
autobahn runs finally showed a mix of about 22-24mpg, about the same I had
before but with some more power. The knock in the datalogs show that our
cars need the rich setting at 15 psi. Any richer causes fuel cut as the
stock injectors are at their end since a long time. Therefore, more power
needs bigger injectors, but we already know this. Fortunately, with the ARC
you'll only change two settings and correct the idle for a smooth running
and you're done. I planned to do a dyno test with the stock setup to see
what restriction the stock MAS is. Also I then wanted to install a set of
440cc injectors out of the DSMs but I never got the promised package. As
time is runnign and winter is comming, I may install the 720cc in the
comming week and hey, each dyno run is about $100 :-( The combination of the
water injection with the enlarged fuel system with proper control will the
bring the turbos at their end :-)

Conclusion :
Yes, the MAF conversion works for ANY injectors on any year of our TT cars
AND the DSMs as well. The non-turbo version is in test and will be released
soon. I hope GT PRO is able to provide real dyno data then as the lag is not
a problem on the NA ;-) I can highly recommend it although the VPC/GCC with
its ability to have a custom made program may provide you the more real
track specific race car. This was not my aim and till today, the decision to
spend money for the test was ok. The weather heaviyl changed since my first
day I runned it and the car still behaves the same. Only idle msut be set a
little richer and turned back after the car heated up, otherwise the ARM is
always showing full rich. But if the lights are dimmed or the ARM installed
on another position this is not a big issue as you'll not notice this in the
mileage. And if you sit in a lot traffic, just crank it down a little. Here,
I wish to have the 1% setting but ya know ... I want to have it perfect.

Anything negative .... no, really nothing. Maybe the MAF that has no device
to the frame as it is a little shorter than the MAS (in my special filter
setup) But this is negligible for sure :)). It must prove its driveability
in real winter but this only about two/three weeks ahead. Temp is now in the
8°C region here and I have no problem so far.

My current mods ?
- Blitz DSBC ($450)
- Blitz DualTimer ($120)
- ARC2-GP MAF ($990 w/filter, less without)
- Greddy BOV ($280)
- ERL 3D Water injection ($800)

Nothing else till today, but sooo many stuff sitting around. Car runs at
1.08kg/cm2 peak at the moment. Knock stays below any dangerous level.

Ok, that's it. I was very low on time the last weeks so I haven't set up the
installation page on my homestead, but I'll do soon. If you want to see more
details in the meantime, let me know and I can send you pics or a log before
and after. If you are interested in pricing, go to the GT PRO website and
you'll find the stuff under the fuel control menu.

Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 14:41:11 1999
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To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo Question
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There is one on the 3SI board that is thinking about such a project or has it
done already. The DSM turbine housing do not fit our manifolds. Therefore, what
you can do is making a hybrid turbo by using our turbine and housing together
with the 14b compressor wheel and housing. But I haven't heard anything about
the space in the rear as well as the motor mount on the front !! These are both
important issues you have to think about.

>From my own experience, the 5-speed with my 13G together have noticeable more
lag compared to the 9b in a 6 speed Stealth (Jim's car). Therefore, I think the
bigger lag of the 15G would be less noticable in the 2nd gens than in the 5
speed.

> remember that it'll also be getting .5 liters less input flow than on a DSM,
> so it'll likely spool up later.

Matt, can you explain this a little bit more ? I maybe missed something :)

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 14:51:36 1999
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Reply-To: "John P. Kaiser" <jkaiser@emed.com>
From: "John P. Kaiser" <jkaiser@emed.com>
To: "3000 GT List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Team 3S:  Factory Alarm.
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 16:49:43 -0500
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I have a 1999 Mit. 3000GT (Base Model) and want to know if there is a way to
disconnect or disable the factory installed
alarm system.
I have been told to relay isolate the green and white wire to the rotax box
under the dash.  Is this correct? or is there another way?



John
1999 3000GT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 15:09:17 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Turbo Question
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 17:13:39 -0500
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> > remember that it'll also be getting .5 liters less input
> > flow than on a DSM, so it'll likely spool up later.

> Matt, can you explain this a little bit more ? I maybe missed
> something :)

I was commenting that on a DSM application the 14B gets flow from 2.0 liters of displacement in the cylinders and on a 3/S car it would get 1.5 liters of "basic" flow.  At high RPM on my DSM with a heavily ported 14B I ran 19 psi, which started falling to about 17 psi at 7500 rpm.  Assuming the same boost level, the exhaust input into the turbo will be 25% less on a 3/S car since there are 3 cylinders feeding 1.5L of air into the turbo (not taking into account a higher flow once boost builds up).  At lower RPM's, before boost comes on this might be a factor - making the 14B spool up at a higher RPM than you might expect.

Not something I know for a fact, but just an observation...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 15:21:46 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 17:16:39 -0500
Subject: Team3S: Heavily modded VR4 for sale
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I absolutely hate to have to do this but I am pretty much done with my
sports car hobby. So here it goes, all modifications performed by Jack
Tertadian and I.
Glacier White Pearl 1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR-4
90,505 miles, NEWLY PUT IN UPGRADED '93 spec. Transmission, Transfer
Case, and Output Shaft. (Aug.'99)   from Kormax
Concept Neeper Synchro Chrome 18x8.5" Rims(Oct.'98)
Sumitomo HTRZII 265/35ZR18 Tires(Apr.'99)
Magnecor KV85 Ignition Wires(Mar.'99)
K&N Cone Air Filter with Custom 3" M.A.S. PVC Bypass Tube(Mar.'99)
K&N Breather Filter (to keep the intercoolers clean)
Alamo Motorsports Y-Pipe(May'99)
1G DSM Blow Off Valve Kit(May'99)
ATR 3" Stainless Downpipe(Aug.'99)
Custom 3" Dual Cat-Back Exhaust System with Dual 4" Thermal R&D
Tips(Apr.'99)
T.E.C. TDO4-15G Turbochargers(always turbo timed-less than 2,500
miles)(Sept.'99)
HKS EVC4 Electronic Boost Controller(Oct.'98)
HKS Turbo Timer 4(Oct.'98)
SPI Motorsport 30-0-30psi Boost Guage in A-Pillar Mounting Pod(Oct.'99)
R.C. Engineering 550cc Fuel Injectors(Sept.'99)
Denso MK-IV In Tank Fuel Pump Upgrade(Sept.'99)
HKS V.P.C. Vein Pressure Converter Fuel Computer with 550 chip(Sept.'99)
HKS G.C.C. II Piggyback Fuel Computer(Sept.'99)
Jumptronix 02 Voltage Meter(Sept.'99)
Broward 6-Puck Ceramic Clutch Disk(Sept.'99)
RPS Heavy Duty Pressure Plate(Sept.'99)
New Flywheel(installed with new clutch in Sept.)
Tenzo 400 Series Hyper White Foglights
- - - - - - - - - - I have owned the car for about a year and 3 months, I
stuck WAY too much money into it in that short of a time, and now must
face the facts of bills everywhere.
All stock parts will be included as will all manuals and an extra RPS
Turbo clutch that has a bad but rebuildable pressure plate.  Car always
uses Mobil 1 Synthetic and Redline oils and fluids.  And like I said
earlier all work was done with the expert and flawless effort of Jack
Tertadian.
My goal is to break even, just to pay off bills and loans which all
relate to this car, so with a hesitent hand I type this.
Car goes for $15,250 or the any reasonable offer.  Pictures can be seen
at wisc.dsm.org under my name, (only lists old modifications on that web
page)
Del Kolasinski -southeastern Wisconsin-
Phone 782-2410  Cell 807-3676
email- pearlvr42c@juno.com

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 15:33:54 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'TurboDrvn@aol.com'" <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 15:33:08 -0700
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Ahmed...

Nope, I was blowing smoke at all times. It started lightly, but got
SIGNIFICANTLY worse within a hundred miles. By the time I drove it to the
shop, there was a cloud following me. Very ugly, very embarrassing. I did,
however, still have boost.

I hate to say it, but I think the conjecture of rings or piston is likely.
Not a pleasant thought, but check that compression.

Best wishes...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Friday, October 15, 1999 7:49 AM
To: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update: Still NO BOOST!!!!!!


In a message dated 10/15/99 9:43:59 AM Central Daylight Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com writes:

<< Ahmed...

Are you blowing oil out the exhaust? That was my symptom when I spun the
bearings on my first set of 15Gs.

Looking forward...Chris >>

Hey Chris,

    Yes I am blowing oil out of the exhaust; I referred to that on my
previous posts thinking they were worn valve seals........but maybe not??? 
the oil smoke only occurs when I decelerate and sometimes at stop
signs.....I
have NO oil (smoke) coming out of my exhaust when I accelerate and the RPM's

increase.......I'm thinking turbo seals or piston?????   NEED to do a
compression test soon!

Chris, when you spun the bearings on your 15G's..what type of frequency of
smoke did you have out of your exhaust???

I'll keep everyone posted,

Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 15:47:32 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>, <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!  (An Aside Re: Bearings)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 17:42:16 -0500
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> Are you blowing oil out the exhaust? That was my symptom when I spun the
> bearings on my first set of 15Gs.
All-
I a not knowledgable about the bearings used in turbos. Do most
use journal bearings like the crank and rods; fed with ordinary oil
pressures of 10 to 50 psi or so?  Because their speeds are so
high (and loads), I assumed (incorrectly, I guess), that they
were all ball bearings. 
You might know that the Space Shuttle Main Engine Turbo Pumps for
the fuel and oxidizer (LH2 and LOX) are, or have already converted
to ceramic ball bearings versus 440C stainless. 
What are the advantages of ball bearing turbochargers?
Regards,
ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 15:57:38 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Matt Jannusch" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F7604@EXCHANGE1>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  Still NO BOOST!!!!!!
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 00:50:34 +0200
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> >  I think your problem is definitely the seals and bearings
> > since that is the only way you will get oil in your BOV.
> > Worn piston rings will cause you to burn oil.  The oil will
> > never get to your BOV (in fact, it has no way of getting
> > there from the cylinders unless your valve seats are
> > extremely worn in which your car would never run because of
> > lack of compression).  Plus, your symptoms are lack of boost
> > and not lack of compression.  So I'd start with the turbos.
> > I think you have a condition known as "blow by" where your
> > turbo seals are gone and the oil is "blowing by" them.  Just
> > my 2 cents.

No, this is not right and Matt exactly pointed out why. I highly recommend
the compression test as this is how my problem started. But I always had
boost although not that much as before and a big loss the higehr the rpm
was. My BOV and the Blitz solenoids, everything was soacked with oil and
till today some oil still sits in the intercoolers.

If there is low compression, the pressure built up by the turbos can go
elsewhere. I your point it sounds like a problem on every cylinder but this
is very uncommon. I had a 2 broken pistons and at least one ring broke on
any of the six. But hey, no boost would mean at least a hole in two pistons
and this woudl be pretty noticeable even at idle. Even more, opening the oil
cap you should be able to smell the gas in the oil then.

Man, I have no idea what's going on in your car, damn strange. Start with
the comrpession test and a leak down test to find out where the problem
coudl be if the compression is below 120psi.

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 15:57:44 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F7606@EXCHANGE1>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 120K service, problems
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> Sounds like the exhaust cam is off a tooth, and maybe the intake cam as
well.

Very good answer from Matt and I just like to second his words ! I'd
immediatly check the alignement by yourself with the manual it's pretty easy
to find out if the stuff is aligned properly. I doubt that they are off more
than one or even two teeths as anythign else would have caused damage :-/
Also check if the belt is sitting well and the tensioner does it's work.
Just don't rev it up hard or above anything than 3500 until the problem is
solved.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 15 17:09:16 1999
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From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: team 3si <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: FW: greddy turbo setup :)
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 18:00:58 -0600
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> Well I'm not sure if I made this known to the public but will now. I
> purchased the greddy turbo setup for our cars from Mike at Altered
> Atmosphere. First I have to put a word out for Mike, he did an excellent
> job of letting me know were the parts were and shipped them out promptly
> when he did get them and he was very fair on price! Thanx Mike!
> Now onto the turbos. The kit basically replaces the whole existing setup
> but the fun part is you have to fabricate about 50% the rest of it. It
> came with the stainless headers and TD-05 16g turbos which flow 505 cfm
> per turbo compare that with the 410 cfm from the td04 15g's. Now this
> setup aint cheap it set me back a few bucks but the craftsman ship on the
> headers are unlike anything I have seen! They are actually really pretty
> :) heehheh And the welds and thickness of the stainless steel they used
> was way beyond the usual! So the price is well worth it. Now this setup is
> an external wastegate setup and today I found out I can use TIAL
> wastegates instead of the greddy type-R's so that will save me around $600
> :)
> Now the disappointment and setback already :(
> We got the engine pulled yesterday and decided to play with the turbos by
> just fake mounting them by loosely putting a couple bolts on the studs and
> hanging them there. Well to our amaisment they have the intake track for
> these opposite of what the td04 were :( So that is challenge number one
> already :(
> Now we knew ahead of time greddy stated that there may not be much room in
> the back for the turbo and may have to bang in the firewall. Well with the
> test fit we measured and we have to bang in the fire wall around 2 1/2 to
> 3 inches in were the turbo will sit in the back :(
> The plus so far is that they are only oil fed turbos so no routing of
> coolant lines are necessary :)
> What we may end up doing is cutting off the mounting flanges for both
> manifolds and repositioning the flange so that the air intake is back in
> line. What amazed us is that the stock intake piping fits right on the
> intake track of the turbo. Well that's about all I want to write but all I
> have to really say is if you got the money and time this will be an
> excellent project! It sure will be for me! Visit my web page below for
> upcoming pictures of the setup and tear down of the motor. Cant wait till
> spring :)
>
> 92 3000 GTO S.C.
> Soon to be exactly what the plates say :)
> Plates (HIPRESR)
> 1-800-888-gwla x4733
> http://members.xoom.com/palamarap
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 02:13:48 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US!!!
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 02:13:17 -0700
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Congratulations, everyone!

Yes, it's been a year since the seven of us "Admins" decided to
form Team3S.  We wanted a mailing list devoted to technical issues,
for folks who are busy with the rigors of life, who don't have time
for the chat and flames and the 'fluff' of other lists.  An idea
exchange for ladies and gents, if you will...  Thanks to all of you
who have joined us, for making Team3S a success.

It's because of the type of folks we have here..., all of you, that
Team3S is a forum of quality and substance.  We've had almost 500
people from dozens of countries sign on since our 7-man beginnings,
many of whom have helped the entire group with their selfless
efforts.  That includes everything from setting up the web pages and
offering webspace, to actually going after problem vendors and even
organizing group purchases.  Many of us share information about our
Stealth or 3000GT with the world with our own websites, and offer
help and suggestions via the list itself.  And quite a few of us
have actually met in regional gatherings, just enjoying a drive, and
our marvelous cars, and life, and cementing the friendships we've
made on the internet.

We have lots of plans for our second year, with reference pages and
a searchable FAQ going on the web shortly.  We'll all reap the
benefits of having some of the priceless technical information that
has been covered in our emails, once it's published on a central
site.  Our pages and our list will continue to be free, and
available to both members and anyone else who happens to find us
while websurfing...

The Admins would also like to pat ourselves on the back for handling
the logistics of keeping the Team3S list running smoothly so we all
may enjoy it...  But the main thanks is to all of you who have made
it as wonderful as we dreamed it could be, way back when...

A toast...  to the 3000GT and the Stealth, and to Team3S!


Warmest regards, and safe driving to all...

The Team3S Admins:
BOB Forrest, San Francisco, CA, USA  Team3S@bobforrest.com
CHRIS Winkley, Portland, OR, USA  cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
DARCY Gunnlaugson, Victoria, B.C., CANADA  wce@bc.sympatico.ca
JIM Matthews, Wiesbaden, GERMANY  matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
MIKAEL Akesson, Stockholm, SWEDEN  vr4@bahnhof.se
RICH LeRoy, Ridgefield, WA, USA  rleroy@pacifier.com
ROGER Gerl, Zurich, SWITZERLAND  robby@swissonline.ch





For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 04:29:31 1999
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To: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injector duty & new Apexi AVC-R
References: <002001bef453$a239ea40$418a83d8@RGERL012599_000.peoplesoft.com> <37CD651A.A4BD36A8@gat.com>
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I just got the boost controller for one of my customers and I runned into a
simple and maybe stupid question :

> There is also a mode where you can display a graph with one of the above
> parameters on the Y axis against RPM on the X axis.  In this mode, you can
> select 1 point, 10 point (it looks like a snake moving around the graph), or
> ghost trace where all points remain illuminated until reset. You can also do a
> manual hold, but I'm not sure if the peak hold works on this display.  It was
> with this graph in ghost trace that I could determine the RPM where my IDC
> usually hit 100%.

This made me thinking as you can only attach to the RPM OR the INJECTOR wire at
once to the ECU. So if the IDC is attched how does the unit know the RPM ??? I
was walking up and down the manual and often found the note or warning about
whatever is connected. For sure, the most interesting diaplys would be boost
against rpm and IDC against RPM. The first is no problem but what if the sensor
line is connected to the injector wire ? The manual says that the self learning
mode as well as gear learning is not workign well when IDC is connected isntead
of RPM. What are your experiences here ?

Thanks,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 05:44:13 1999
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Reply-To: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: wheels & Tires...
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 08:44:38 -0400
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    I just got a humongous bonus from my company
for my work on our Y2K problem.  (That little glitch
DOES have its good points...)  I'm now in the market
for new sneakers for my 3KGT base.

    I currently have the original 16" steel wheels
and appropriate tires.  I'm wondering if anyone
else has gone from there to 18" wheels on a=20
base.  What tire size is appropriate for 18"
wheels?  What are the benefits of going from 16"
to 17" or 18"?  Are there any brands that tend
to fit our cars better?  Is there anything in particular
to be cautious about?  I'm currently looking at
chrome Mille Miglia Spiders....

Thanx...
-G



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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1706"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I just got a humongous bonus from my =
company<BR>for=20
my work on our Y2K problem.&nbsp; (That little glitch<BR>DOES have its =
good=20
points...)&nbsp; I'm now in the market<BR>for new sneakers for my 3KGT=20
base.<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I currently have the original 16&quot; =
steel=20
wheels<BR>and appropriate tires.&nbsp; I'm wondering if anyone<BR>else =
has gone=20
from there to 18&quot; wheels on a <BR>base.&nbsp; What tire size is =
appropriate=20
for 18&quot;<BR>wheels?&nbsp; What are the benefits of going from =
16&quot;<BR>to=20
17&quot; or 18&quot;?&nbsp; Are there any brands that tend<BR>to fit our =
cars=20
better?&nbsp; Is there anything in particular<BR>to be cautious =
about?&nbsp; I'm=20
currently looking at<BR>chrome Mille Miglia=20
Spiders....<BR><BR>Thanx...<BR>-G<BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_002B_01BF17B2.AE02CD60--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 07:59:05 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 09:58:41 CDT
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Actually, it was the Stillen cross-drilled rotor that Oskar broke in two
places.  He then replaced it with a stock rotor.  He didn't have any
problems with his stock rotors, other than the fact that they have been
warped for a long time. ;)

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>To: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>, "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Road racing - Cracked rotor and brake pad failure
>Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:49:09 -0500
>
>Seems the 94+ rotors are prone to cracking from the hub.  Maybe we should
>look into finding a good replacement.
>
>
>Brad

______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 09:19:06 1999
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Message-ID: <003c01bf17f3$1b057ee0$086498d0@chromeusa>
From: "William W. Tabler, Jr." <billt@chromeusa.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Chrome Wheels
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 11:25:47 -0500
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Dear Team3S,
My company is venturing into the market of bright chrome plating on aluminum
wheels.  This service would take your aluminum wheels, strip any paint /
clear coat, polish to a bright finish then triple chrome plate.  This would
give you a bright chrome finish on your wheels.

Do you have any interest in this service?

What would you expect to pay for this service?

What turn around time would you expect?

I would appreciate any additional information you may want to share.

Thank you for your response!

Bill Tabler, Jr
President
Chromium Plating Company
billt@chromeusa.com




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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 09:28:45 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 12:28:11 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US!!!
To: bf@bobforrest.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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In a message dated 10/16/99 4:14:42 AM Central Daylight Time,
bf@bobforrest.com writes:

<< The Team3S Admins:
BOB Forrest, San Francisco, CA, USA  Team3S@bobforrest.com
CHRIS Winkley, Portland, OR, USA  cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
DARCY Gunnlaugson, Victoria, B.C., CANADA  wce@bc.sympatico.ca
JIM Matthews, Wiesbaden, GERMANY  matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
MIKAEL Akesson, Stockholm, SWEDEN  vr4@bahnhof.se
RICH LeRoy, Ridgefield, WA, USA  rleroy@pacifier.com
ROGER Gerl, Zurich, SWITZERLAND  robby@swissonline.ch

  >>

Gentlemen, Congratulations!!!!!!

    You have provided our fellow 3000GT/Stealth owners a valuable means of
communicating and sharing technical ideas/information!!!!!!!  Provided us
with a structured environment/channel where we found minimal server/list
problems and interruptions!!   Thanks! 
    On behalf of all of us 3000GT/Stealth owners, HATS OFF to you gentlemen
on the Team 3s Administration !!!!!!!!    Thank you, again!!!!

Ahmed "AL-Crazy".
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 10:06:49 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@unconundrum.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: stock boost solenoid question
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 13:06:18 -0400
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Ok I was playing around the engine compartment cleaning it up when I
accident hit the stock solenoid.  The one plastic piece which you would cap
when you put and aftermarket boost controller broke off.  Now I had put the
car back to stock because it is under warranty and my mom was having some
trany probs.  Anyway, with that hose not attached and the piece broken off,
I am hitting 1.05 bars of boost!!!!! Why would this be?  The car has no
boost controller except for the bottom connection of the stock solenoid
being broken off and the hose not being connected.  Is this bad?  Could
people not need a boost controller to get 1.05, just merely un-attach that
hose?  Does anyone have a stock one, that I replace it with, since I can't
take it into a dealer with a broke stock solenoid.  Thanks for any info
guys.


Joshua Prince
3si#0137
joshua@unconundrum.com

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 11:56:06 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: wheels & Tires...
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 13:22:18 -0500
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I have a base 3000GT also ('95).  I went from the stock 16" to 17" (I wanted
18", but couldn't afford them :).  The basic principal is to keep the same
overall diameter of the entire tire the same.  So if ya go to bigger rims,
then you should get lower profile tires.  The stock tires on mine were
225/55ZR15's, and I went to 245/45ZR17's (which fits on a 17 x 8 rim, but I
think you can go up to 8.5 on the width).  If you went with 18's then you'd
probably get like a 245/30 (or 35) ZR18 tire would be my guess.  Go to
www.tirerack.com and they have a system where you enter yer make and model
and year of car, and you can select rim size and they recommend the
appropriate tire size as well.  Plus, if you purchase both the rims and the
tires from them, they will mount and balance the tires for you (included in
the price), and they ship to yer door.  So you just have to put them on
(although I'd recommend an alignment job just to be sure that everything is
well :).  I got the Kosei SC6's from them, with Pirelli S7000 Super Sport
series (they're classified as Ultra High-Performance, All Season tires, have
a 320 A A treadwear rating, and about a 40 - 45,000 mile life).  I'd
recommend Pirelli's (especially this particular tire).  These are by far the
best tires I've had, and they handle excelletly in both rain and dry weather
(being in Tulsa, we hardly get any snow out here, so that's a consideration
depending upon yer living area :).  I'd also recommend the TireRack for the
place to shop and purchase, some of the best prices I've seen (I got my
tires for $149 a piece :).  They also have a really kewl app on their web
site that will show a picture of yer car, and you can place rims on the
picture to see what it'll look like :).

Good luck with the hunt for sneakers :).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 14:55:37 1999
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        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: It Works! (at least half of it, anyway)
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 16:50:19 -0500
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    Darc & All-
I finally got my Super-AVC-R installed and working.  On Darc's
recommendation, I set the A settings to 1.00 bar and 66% boost
duty.  To let it learn, I ran up to redline in second gear.  Drove a
while, and couldn't find a spot to try redlining in third.  I decided
to try redlining in second again.  This time it popped and sputtered
at about 5000 rpm.  Tried it again, it popped and sputtered again.
Let the rpm drop down to a normal 60mph/4th gear cruise, and
it was missing.  After a short time it cleared up.  I suppose the
problem was that my plugs fouled while it was missing, so I've
got to reduce my plug gaps to .034 in. to prevent it from missing.
Right?
One problem though:  I can't get the thing to select "B," to do the
second set-up.  I thought just pressing the select button would
switch back and forth between  A and B, but mine stays in A.
Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong?   TIA.
Regards,
ptg

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 15:48:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 16:48:48 -0600
From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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to anyone that has been paying attention to my transfer case problems, the
transfer case from MD Auto showed up at the shop last monday and was installed
in an hour or so..  (my mechanic charged me 2 hours total for removing the
original case and the downpipe, and reinstallation)  I also located a source
for Redline fluids right here in Boulder (Foreign Car Specialists) so I had
the shop put in MT90 in the tranny and Shockproof Heavy in the transfer case
and differential..  

my mechanic seemed to think everything looked fine with the rebuilt unit,
although he didn't open it up to verify the condition of the internals..

result:  *ear to ear grin*  :)  it's a little more fun to drive now without
the sounds of a table saw coming from the transfer case.. 

however, there is still a slight whine and I wanted to know if I should be
concerned..  my gut feeling is that it's within reason..  I think I remember
reading a post that suggested a _little_ whine is normal especially in the 6
speeds..  true? 

btw, if you happened to notice the special October only discount price from
Tallahassee Mitsubishi, apparently they are doing a $100 over cost special on
all engines and transmissions!!!  get'em while they're hot!  ;)

glad to be back among the driving ranks!

Dave
95 Black (yea! it's back to AWD) VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 16:02:31 1999
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please forgive me for a pretty non-technical post, but I'm trying to find
a cheaper solution to this than bending over for the dealer..

now that I have my car back, I'd love to be driving it..  problem is, it's
currently snowing here in Boulder..  it's not the driving that bothers me,
it's the water dripping on my head because the sunroof won't lock down.. :(

it looks like the previous owner probably broke the mechanism, took it apart
and removed a piece..  unfortunately, individual pieces aren't available from
the dealer, so I can't even find out what it is that's missing..  I took some
pictures of the parts, and if any of you could clue me, I'd be very
appreciative!  also, if anyone has said part(s) that they would be willing to
sell, please let me know! 

I also am looking for a factory alarm remote that'll work with a 95 VR4..
got a spare?  (the dealer says 1G and 2G are different..  true?)

take a look at
http:\\ucsu.colorado.edu\~monarchd\3000gt
follow the link to "Parts..." then "Sunroof crank mechanism"

thanks!

Dave
95 Black (currently 2WD) VR4
87 Mica Red GTI (always been 2WD) G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 16:08:59 1999
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sheesh.. sorry for the slew of posts, but I forgot to mention in the last
post that I took a much better picture of the failed bearings in my transfer
case..

you simply won't believe that I could have driven the car with these in the
case..  :)

http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/square_bearings2.jpg

or

http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/transfercase.html


Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 16:36:25 1999
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From: "Dave Holden" <dholden@deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca>
To: "'3000GT Mailing'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Another P.O.V. on tire choice
Date: Sat, 16 Oct 1999 19:29:28 -0400
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Hello all,

I recently put new tires on my '91 R/T.  It is a daily driver and I got
tired of having to put on new "ZR" rated tires every year.

This time I went with a BFG Comp T/A 245/45/17 "H" rated tire.  They drive
fine and the ride is more comfortable than the stiffer "ZR" tires.  So far
they have worn very well.  For a daily driver, I thought that these tires
offered a sensible compromise between cost and performance.  Obviously, they
are inferior to the "ZR" tires for high-performance driving.  They howl with
protest under high cornering loads, but I was pleasantly surprised with the
amount of grip they do have.  The "H" speed rating is good for sustained
speeds of up to 130 MPH, which is far higher than anyone will ever use on
the street (except for some residents of Montana).  In terms of cost, the
"H" rated tire was about 40% cheaper than an equivalent tire with a "Z",
"ZR", or "VR" speed rating.

I would not recommend them if your car is a weekend toy, but I am far
happier with these tires for everyday use than I was with any of the "ZR"
tires that I had before.

Dave Holden
Pearl White '91 R/T
Abbotsford, BC
http://deadkenny.northern-lights.bc.ca/~dholden

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 16 19:00:13 1999
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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: sunroof crank mechanism / factory alarm remote
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oops..

Dave wrote:
> now that I have my car back, I'd love to be driving it..  problem is, it's
> currently snowing here in Boulder..  it's not the driving that bothers me,
> it's the water dripping on my head because the sunroof won't lock down.. :(
>
> it looks like the previous owner probably broke the mechanism, took it apart
> and removed a piece..  unfortunately, individual pieces aren't available from
> the dealer, so I can't even find out what it is that's missing..  I took some
> pictures of the parts, and if any of you could clue me, I'd be very
> appreciative!  also, if anyone has said part(s) that they would be willing to
> sell, please let me know!
>
> I also am looking for a factory alarm remote that'll work with a 95 VR4..
> got a spare?  (the dealer says 1G and 2G are different..  true?)
>
> take a look at
> http:\\ucsu.colorado.edu\~monarchd\3000gt

sorry..  switching between unix and windows screws with me sometimes.. 
it should be:

http ://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt

then follow the link to "Parts..." then "Sunroof crank mechanism"

sorry for the repeat..

Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 01:53:00 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 10:48:35 +0100
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: It Works! (at least half of it, anyway)
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"Paul T. Golley" wrote:
>
> problem was that my plugs fouled while it was missing, so I've
> got to reduce my plug gaps to .034 in. to prevent it from missing.
> Right?

Sounds right to me.


> One problem though:  I can't get the thing to select "B," to do the
> second set-up.  I thought just pressing the select button would
> switch back and forth between  A and B, but mine stays in A.

Pressing the A/B button once will display the boost pressure limit set
for whatever setting you're on, pressing it again will switch to the
other setting.

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 01:53:03 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: transfer case update
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Dave wrote:
>
> however, there is still a slight whine and I wanted to know if I should be
> concerned..  my gut feeling is that it's within reason..  I think I remember
> reading a post that suggested a _little_ whine is normal especially in the 6
> speeds..  true?

Mine has whined since I bought it used with 34k miles, 40k miles ago.
Note that the whine is really only audible when decelerating.

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 01:53:08 1999
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CC: "'3000GT Mailing'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Another P.O.V. on tire choice
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Dave Holden wrote:
>
> I recently put new tires on my '91 R/T.  It is a daily driver and I got
> tired of having to put on new "ZR" rated tires every year.

Every year?  How many miles were you getting out of your ZRs?  And what
were they?  I have about 30k miles on my set of Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
M+S meats and they have a lot of life left in them.


> amount of grip they do have.  The "H" speed rating is good for sustained
> speeds of up to 130 MPH, which is far higher than anyone will ever use on
> the street (except for some residents of Montana).  In terms of cost, the

Well, there are a few other places...

-Jim (AVERAGED 120 mph for 175 miles yesterday)
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 03:08:54 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 11:59:50 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
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To: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "Shelton, Todd D" <tds@brightok.net>
Subject: Team3S: Update on Jeff Curtis' Case
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   All,
    I received a letter form Betty Feltes (Jeff's mother) a few weeks
ago.  Sorry it has taken awhile for me to post his, but I am just now
starting to get caught up on all my e-mails.
    For those of you who do not know, Jeff Curtis was a very energetic
supporter of S3 cars and one of the person's instrumental in getting the
Starnet list up and running and organizing Stealth/3000GT's over the
internet.   He was tragically killed in January of 1998 during a road
rage incident on his way to work.  His car was hit on the side, forcing
it over the median, where it hit a Ford Explorer head on.  The driver of
the Explorer was not injured.  Jeff was not in his Stealth at the time,
but his daily driver, a Chevy Cavelier.  While this all may seem a
little weird to those of you who did not know Jeff, he was very
knowledgeable person who was great at bringing logic and humor to the
senseless flame wars that erupt on the Starnet list.

>From Betty:
The timing of your letter was really perfect.  After months of delays,
and court hearings about every three weeks for about a year, the trial
of the guy who caused the crash and was charged with three counts of
reckless homicide for Jeff's death was finally held in April.  We had
been told all along by the DuPage County State's Attorney's office that
is was very unusual for them to even file reckless homicide charges in a
case like this where no drugs or alcohol involved by the defendant and
that it would be a very difficult case to win.  The defendant remained
arrogant to the end never even admitting that he hit Jeff in spite of
all the witnesses, and twice during the year rejected plea agreements
which would have reduced charges.  The Secretary of State's office had
already permanently revoked his driver's license in June of last year
based on the recommendation of the State's Attorney's office after they
finally charged him with reckless homicide.  The State's Attorney's
office did an incredible job prosecuting, and after a four day trial by
jury, the defendant was found guilty on all three accounts of reckless
homicide on April 23.  Sentencing was set for June 4, and on that day,
much to the surprise of the State's Attorney's office, who had told us
all along that even if they did win this case, the defendant would never
get jail time, the judge sentenced him to six months in jail, plus the
maximum 30 months probation, monetary restitution to the man whose Ford
Explorer hit Jeff after he was pushed over the median by the defendant,
and whatever other terms the probation division deemed necessary such as
anger management counseling and community service.  He was given 10 days
to clear up his affairs and reported back to court on June 14 and taken
to jail from there to begin serving his sentence.


Mike Chapleski
0018



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 09:01:15 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 12:00:47 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Parts Left for Sale - David Skultety
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Do NOT reply to the list, E-mail me directly at dskull@aol.com

Set of 1993 VR4 17 " chrome wheels with Yoko A032 255/45/17 tires. The chrome
on these is shot/peeling/gone. Could be re-chromed or good for winter wheels.
Also have a set of Goodyear Eagle 245/45/17 tires with approx. 1/2 tread
left. You get the whole package for 450.00 plus shipping.
Set of H&R sport springs. These are direct replacment for the stock springs.
Fits 1993 VR4. They will lower the car about 1" and the stiffness will go up
one appox. one notch. Your tour setting will feel like sport and the sport
setting will be stiffer. Yours for 125.00 plus shipping ;
Stock Catalytic convertor. Gut it for a test pipe. 50.00 plus shipping.
Set 0f 92-96 service manuals PLUS CD.  50.00 plus shipping
Road Race Engineering Rear Tower Bar. 100.00 plus shipping
Ground control springs - 7" @ 500 lbs - 40.00 plus shipping
Ground control springs - 6" @ 600 lbs - 40,00 plus shipping
NOTE - These springs will only fit the Ground Control adjustable package.
Will not work as replacements for stock springs. Good deal for someone who's
wants to go to a stiffer setup.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 10:24:09 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <000c01bf1820$71cddc40$836186d0@sjiredff>
Subject: Re: Team3S: It Works! (at least half of it, anyway)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 18:32:51 +0200
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> got to reduce my plug gaps to .034 in. to prevent it from missing.

What was the peak boost ? But for sure, reducing the gap is the first what
should be done.

> One problem though:  I can't get the thing to select "B," to do the
> second set-up.  I thought just pressing the select button would
> switch back and forth between  A and B, but mine stays in A.

Umpf, AVC1 or 2 ??

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 14:35:40 1999
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References: <000c01bf1820$71cddc40$836186d0@sjiredff> <005801bf18c4$26c710a0$71cbe6c2@rg>
Subject: Team3S: Updated site with MAF information, etc.
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:33:56 +0200
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Check out the promised information about the SplitSecond ARC2-GP MAF
conversion kit with tunign tetails, datalogs, pics and more.

http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html

PS: GeoCities again made the sites slower but I hope it's not too bad as I
tried to optimize the pics.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 14:46:09 1999
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Message-ID: <003301bf18e9$15211740$140100b6@monster>
Reply-To: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheels....
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 17:46:33 -0400
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    I'm sorry if I'm full of questions lately... but...
I got a decent bonus from work and the money's
burning a hole in my pocket.  I'm looking at buying
a new set of wheels/tires.  I've already decided on
Pirelli P7000 SuperSport tires.   Looking at wheels
has become a chore.  I've put together a page to
get your opinions.  I've got it narrowed all the way
down to 10 different wheels. <urp!>

    If you've got a few minutes... give it a look
and let me know which tires look better on my baby.
Thanx...

http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT

Select "Which Wheels Should I buy?" from the
main menu....

Thanx again....


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 15:35:19 1999
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Message-ID: <01c001bf18ea$e0a6b9a0$10c9c9c9@benson>
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Wheels....
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 16:59:25 -0500
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I think you'll be very satisfied with those Pirelli's, I know I am with mine
;).  Enjoy the traction :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 15:56:55 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Updated site with MAF information, etc.
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In a message dated 10/17/99 5:36:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
robby@freesurf.ch writes:

> Check out the promised information about the SplitSecond ARC2-GP MAF
>  conversion kit with tunign tetails, datalogs, pics and more.

>  http://www.geocities.com/swisscars/3000gt.html

>  PS: GeoCities again made the sites slower but I hope it's not too bad as I
>  tried to optimize the pics.

>  Roger
>  93'3000GT TT


  Roger,

  I was checking out your website regarding the installation of the
SplitSecond ARC2-GP MAF.  As usual you have done a wonderful job.  My only
question with it is about the use of silicone spray to assist sliding the
parts together.  I've always thought that allowing silicone into the intake
system meant instant death to the O2 sensors.  I could be wrong.  Has anyone
else heard of this?

-Dave Rich
'91 R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 21:23:07 1999
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Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:22:34 -0500
From: Rah <rah@isd.net>
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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bent Key
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Hello all, first time poster here,
    Not long ago the lock on the tailgate of my 92 stealth was sticking,
the key wouldn't turn at all.  Some WD-40 did the trick, but I realized
my key was bent!  I then was not happy to notice I could bend it back
with my bare hands.  Well, I went through some steps from there and now
my key won't open the doors, tailgate, or start the car.  I picked this
vehicle up recently and don't have a spare.  I am not happy, especially
how silly it seems that my key is that maluable.  It doesn't even go in
all the way anymore, but it looks as straight as can be.

Any ideas?

TIA,
--Rich

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 21:40:26 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <rah@isd.net>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bent Key
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 1999 23:43:43 -0500
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You should be able to get a decent "keymaker" to duplicate the key for you
with no problem.

Brad


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Rah
Sent: Sunday, October 17, 1999 11:23 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Bent Key


Hello all, first time poster here,
    Not long ago the lock on the tailgate of my 92 stealth was sticking,
the key wouldn't turn at all.  Some WD-40 did the trick, but I realized
my key was bent!  I then was not happy to notice I could bend it back
with my bare hands.  Well, I went through some steps from there and now
my key won't open the doors, tailgate, or start the car.  I picked this
vehicle up recently and don't have a spare.  I am not happy, especially
how silly it seems that my key is that maluable.  It doesn't even go in
all the way anymore, but it looks as straight as can be.

Any ideas?

TIA,
--Rich

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 23:05:46 1999
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Message-ID: <380AB59F.925771D6@attglobal.net>
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 07:52:31 +0200
From: Mike Chapleski <mike.chapleski@attglobal.net>
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I purchased a set of used OZ F1 Racing forged wheels a couple of months
ago.  I did a little research and it appeared that they would fit the
car with no problems.  Other list members have the OZ F1 Plus wheels and
they fit on a 2nd gen VR4 with no problems.  I went to install them this
weekend and the spokes interfere with the brake calipers.  I am not sure
why a similar wheel will fit on a VR4, but I do know that the VR4
caliper is slightly different than the RT TT caliper (VR4 caliper has
mitsubishi cast into the outside)  I could return them, I will have to
pay a lot for shipping and my stock chromeis are pealing REALLY bad.  I
did some measurements and it looks like a 0.2 inch spacer will give me
enough clearance.  Now I know wheel spacers are not recommended and
dangerous but I am determined to make these wheels fit.  I have access
to a machine shop and I will be making the wheel spacers this week.  I
have already machined a collar to mate the flange on the center of the
hub to the center hole on the wheel.  Therefore I have eliminated the
shear stress caused by hitting a pothole.  However, my lug nuts are
still sticking out 0.2" more than they should.  Which means there is
more shear stress put on them by wheel torque during
acceleration/decelleration.  The lug nuts still have enough contact with
the threads so I do not have to worry about that.  However, German roads
are not the best so I would really like to increase my safety margin a
little.  I looked in Jegs and they carry extended hardened lug bolts but
only in english, not metric sizes.  So does anyone know where I can get
hardened lug bolts that are about 5-8 mm longer than stock.  Also, does
anyone know the size of our lugs.  I know they are 12mm, but how long
are they and what is the diameter of the press-in part?  I can't find
anything in the service manuals.

Thanks,

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 17 23:36:31 1999
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Message-ID: <01ec01bf192d$f306e000$10c9c9c9@benson>
From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bent Key
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 00:59:32 -0500
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I'm not sure, but isn't there something where you can give mitsubishi yer
VIN and they can get you a key?  not sure, I might be thinking of a
different car part.  Else yer going to have to pay a locksmith to come out
and mold a key for it on the spot :(.


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 01:02:30 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Updated site with MAF information, etc.
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 09:56:38 +0200
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>My only question with it is about the use of silicone spray to assist
sliding the
>parts together. I've always thought that allowing silicone into the intake
>system meant instant death to the O2 sensors.  I could be wrong.  Has
anyone
>else heard of this?

Never ever spray any silicone spray into the throttle body or engine. It is
not heat resistance and may cause bad things. The amount I used was really
not to mention and also I may used the wrong words but I didn't used any
silicone spray on a part where it will be sucked in. The BOV in tube is an
example. The inlet of the Greddy Type S  is somewhat larger in dia than the
stock valve and it is really not easy to put the hose on. Here I used some
of the spray to be able to slpi it on. For the MAF, it is absolutely no
problem as it fits perefctly. But the car may be not young and the oval MAS
has been on it for years. I used the silicone on the outside to make the
rubber part smoother to change the shape from oval to round (it also cleaned
the rubber too). Null problemo as it was a 2 minutes job on my 6 year old
car :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 06:35:33 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Updated site with MAF information, etc.
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 06:36:31 -0700
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I would not recommend spraying anything on the rubber unless it is designed
specifically for rubber, just in case.

You definitely do not want to risk it on the mating surface.  The propellant
and even the actual lubricant may contain oxidants which may cause unseen
damage and shorten the life of the rubber.  This of course depends upon the
nature of the lubricant spray, but it is much better to play it safe, IMO.

An equally effective alternative which should be assured safe is to use mild
liquid dish soap diluted in water.  This is the technique recommended by
"experts".  You only need a very small amount, just enough to coat the
surface of that portion of the inlet which mates to the MAF.

Silicone will take a long time to dissipate, which of course is not
desirable.  You do not want lubricant on the mating surfaces here.  The
water/soap mixture will evaporate quickly once heat is applied and (if
properly diluted) will leave only a small harmless residual.

When I did my 83mm conversion I used a small amount of water/soap mixture
only on the very edge of the inlet "lip" to get it started.  Once it got
going it formed well on the MAF.  Now it goes on much easier as it remembers
the shape of the new (round) MAF.


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> >My only question with it is about the use of silicone spray to assist
> sliding the
> >parts together. I've always thought that allowing silicone into
> the intake
> >system meant instant death to the O2 sensors.  I could be wrong.  Has
> anyone
> >else heard of this?
>
> Never ever spray any silicone spray into the throttle body or
> engine. It is
> not heat resistance and may cause bad things. The amount I used was really
> not to mention and also I may used the wrong words but I didn't used any
> silicone spray on a part where it will be sucked in. The BOV in tube is an
> example. The inlet of the Greddy Type S  is somewhat larger in
> dia than the
> stock valve and it is really not easy to put the hose on. Here I used some
> of the spray to be able to slpi it on. For the MAF, it is absolutely no
> problem as it fits perefctly. But the car may be not young and
> the oval MAS
> has been on it for years. I used the silicone on the outside to make the
> rubber part smoother to change the shape from oval to round (it
> also cleaned
> the rubber too). Null problemo as it was a 2 minutes job on my 6 year old
> car :)
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 07:09:30 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Over Boost???
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Quick question.  I got my boost gauge installed... and on stock it looks like I was at peak boost at 8psi, but it would spike to 11 occasionally...  Now then, I put in a bleeder valve (yeah I know it can be dangerous, but I am just having a little fun til the dough comes in for a BC) and I am doing the same thing, peak around 12psi, and spikes to 16.  Why is that spike there, and also, I am not getting any fuel cut, or knocks that I can tell, I have K&N, Accel wires, and those crappy Rapidfires (that I am changing soon) Gapped to .034 that is it.  So also I ask, should I set it to 14 psi peak (where it holds for at least a second or two) or 14 psi spike?  I don't wanna have so much fun my engine blows, and also, my mileage has gone up to about 18-20... I still have no idea why... any help would... help.  Thanks guys

Ryan

MCSE/ASE     

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 07:36:02 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Burning smell from car?
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I've noticed a strange burning smell coming from my car. I've been told it
smells like plastic or rubber burning.

I notice it mainly when exiting the car and it seems to be most noticeable
when I'm standing beside the car, although my girlfriend said that she
smeleld it through the vent when I popped my hood.

Recently added soem coolant to teh car (my mechanic did) symptoms appeared
abouta  week later (too much coolant??).. Oil change due in about 500
miles (@ 2500 miles now on Mobil 1 synthetic & filter).. been running the
heater some..

Any ideas what the problem could be?

Thanks


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 07:39:09 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "<\"Team3S\"" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Over Boost???
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:39:35 +0200
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The stock system consists of the boost solenoid valve that is alternated and
fully closes above a specific boost. But this boost is only calculated and
not measured. This results in a slow acting system and causes the overboost
situation. Also it highly depends on the meter how good and fast it reads.

The peak situations "can" be dangerous but usually the peak do not appear at
the dangerous point. Say shifting at 7000 the rpms going down to 5200 and
the peak is shortly at 16psi and falls off to 12 isn't a problem. With the
bleeder valve only you will enhance the problematic of the system as the
responsiveness of it will be slower. You'll also see some overboost with an
EBC but you can control this with the settings then.

> crappy Rapidfires (that I am changing soon) Gapped to .034 that is it.  So
also I ask, should I set it to 14 psi peak (where it holds for at least a
second or two) or 14 psi spike?  I don't wanna have so much fun my engine
blows, and also, my mileage has gone up to about 18-20... I still have no
idea why... any help would... help.  Thanks guys

A short "visual" peak to 16 is no problem as holding boost at 14.7 is no
problem too. If you would experience fuel cut at this level your engine
would not be healthy at all. Fuel cut is initiated by too much knock, too
high calculated boost and ultra-wide open injectors for a longer period.

For the mileage, try to compare the steady reading of the stock boost gauge
and the aftermarket one. You'll probably notice that the stock one reads
about 1 psi or whatever too high. This is because the ECU thinks it is at a
specific level due to the barometric sensor and the mass air. Now this is
not really appropriate and changes with the ambient. Therefore, you're car
may run even richer as supposed and resetting the ECU and initiating the
relearn would help. Just unplug your battery for about 15 seconds (the
readings are cleared after that time) or up to 10 minutes for the sceptics.
Then drive the car around with different load for about 10 minutes and after
some miles your done. This may increase your milage to 22-24.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 07:58:42 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Burning smell from car?
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 17:01:09 +0200
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Hi

Do you have a TT?

If so, check for cracks in the transfercase. It's positioned close to the
downpipe so when it starts to leak, oil "splashes" over the hot downpipe and
creates a nice smell. This was how I discovered my first cracked
transfercase.

Mikael Akesson

http://www.3000gt.nu

----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 4:35 PM
Subject: Team3S: Burning smell from car?


I've noticed a strange burning smell coming from my car. I've been told it
smells like plastic or rubber burning.

I notice it mainly when exiting the car and it seems to be most noticeable
when I'm standing beside the car, although my girlfriend said that she
smeleld it through the vent when I popped my hood.

Recently added soem coolant to teh car (my mechanic did) symptoms appeared
abouta  week later (too much coolant??).. Oil change due in about 500
miles (@ 2500 miles now on Mobil 1 synthetic & filter).. been running the
heater some..

Any ideas what the problem could be?

Thanks


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 08:47:02 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Burning smell from car?
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Yep, I've got a VR4. How can I ID the transfercase? Is this something that
is covered under warranty? Should I just go down to the dealership and
tell them the transfercase might be cracked?

Thanks

On Mon, 18 Oct 1999, [iso-8859-1] Mikael Åkesson wrote:

> Hi
>
> Do you have a TT?
>
> If so, check for cracks in the transfercase. It's positioned close to the
> downpipe so when it starts to leak, oil "splashes" over the hot downpipe and
> creates a nice smell. This was how I discovered my first cracked
> transfercase.
>
> Mikael Akesson
>
> http://www.3000gt.nu
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
> To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 4:35 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Burning smell from car?
>
>
> I've noticed a strange burning smell coming from my car. I've been told it
> smells like plastic or rubber burning.
>
> I notice it mainly when exiting the car and it seems to be most noticeable
> when I'm standing beside the car, although my girlfriend said that she
> smeleld it through the vent when I popped my hood.
>
> Recently added soem coolant to teh car (my mechanic did) symptoms appeared
> abouta  week later (too much coolant??).. Oil change due in about 500
> miles (@ 2500 miles now on Mobil 1 synthetic & filter).. been running the
> heater some..
>
> Any ideas what the problem could be?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 08:53:50 1999
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To: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wheels....
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  I'm looking at buying
>a new set of wheels/tires.  I've already decided on
>Pirelli P7000 SuperSport tires.   Looking at wheels
>has become a chore.  I've put together a page to
>get your opinions.  I've got it narrowed all the way
>down to 10 different wheels. <urp!>

The choice may depend on what you do with your car. If you road race, your
choice is SEVERELY limited to stock rims or very expensive, strong wheels.
Our cars develop extremely high cornering loads, and you don't want a
pretty but weak wheel for racing.  If you are just boulevard cruising or
touring, I guess you can put anything on there.

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 08:54:20 1999
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From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
To: Dskull@aol.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Parts Left for Sale - David Skultety
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:53:49 EDT
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Sorry about the post to the list

>Do NOT reply to the list, E-mail me directly at dskull@aol.com
<snip>
e a set of Goodyear Eagle 245/45/17 tires with approx. 1/2 tread
>left. You get the whole package for 450.00 plus shipping.

Dave, I have sent numerous emails to you, all without a reply.
I am interested in some of your wares, so please reply: 
dbretton@hotmail.com

Thank you for your time.

Regards,
   Dennis

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 09:30:06 1999
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Content-Identifier: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring
Hop-Count: 1
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:26 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring
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My '92 VR4 was running fine before I changed the oil. I changed over to
synthetic oil, flushing the motor first. It cranked up and ran fine. I drove it
for about 10 minutes and stopped. After the engine cooled down a bit, I decided
to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed the procedures correctly
(warm not hot engine, covered air filters and BOV). After I cranked it back up,
the engine was running rough. I drove it into the garage and let it sit
overnight, thinking that water had gotten someplace it shouldn't and would dry
out. The next morning. It was still running rough. It wasn't a steady missfire,
but would misfire under slight acceleration, and would pull-and-jerk-and-pop
under heavy acceleration (like it does if your boost is set too high and it's
starving for fuel). After driving like this for about 5 minutes, it tried to
smooth out, as the engine quit misfiring under normal load, but would still
pull-jerk-pop under heavy acceleration. I drove it another 20 minutes, stopped
for an hour, and when I started it back up, it began misfiring almost
continuously. I put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas, drove for about 10
minutes, let it sit overnight, and when I fired it up the next morning, it ran
smooth for about 2 minutes, then misfires continuously. Under heavy
acceleration, it still pulls-jerks-pops like before.

The engine has 109K miles, but I've recently replaced the plugs and wires,
Y-pipe, and some vacuum hoses, so hopefully I can rule out the usual suspects.
I've never taken out or cleaned the injectors, but have occasionally run a
cleaner in the gas. Maybe it's coincindental, but I have to believe that
whatever caused this has something to do with cleaning the engine with water,
as it ran fine before. Anybody else had this problem? Got any ideas?

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 10:34:01 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Burning smell from car?
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Hi

The transfercase is located between the gearbox and the driveshaft. You will
see it when you look under the car, it look like a big "SF Gun" from Men in
black :) it has a big GETRAG printed on it. Visit my homepage
http://www.3000gt.nu and click on "getrag" in the menu and there you will
find several pics of what it looks like. If you find any oil on it, DON'T
drive the car or atleast be very carefull.

Hope it helps (and hope it's not the transfercase that causes that smell)

Mikael
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
To: Mikael Åkesson <vr4@bahnhof.se>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Burning smell from car?


Yep, I've got a VR4. How can I ID the transfercase? Is this something that
is covered under warranty? Should I just go down to the dealership and
tell them the transfercase might be cracked?

Thanks


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 10:36:05 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 12:40:18 -0500
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> I decided to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed
> the procedures correctly (warm not hot engine, covered air
> filters and BOV). After I cranked it back up,
> the engine was running rough.

Other things to cover:

Coil packs
Throttle Position Sensor
Cam Angle Sensor (if these cars have one, I don't know)

You probably also want to avoid getting the area under the intake plenum wet, as that is where the knock sensor is located.

Sounds like maybe some moisture got under the plug wires on the coil packs.  That would cause them to short to the block under load.  Pull the caps off and let them dry for a while and try again.  Label them so you know which one goes where.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 11:51:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 11:51:11 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Injector duty & new Apexi AVC-R
References: <002001bef453$a239ea40$418a83d8@RGERL012599_000.peoplesoft.com>
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Hi Roger,

"R.G." wrote:
>
> I just got the boost controller for one of my customers and I runned into a
> simple and maybe stupid question :
>
> > There is also a mode where you can display a graph with one of the above
> > parameters on the Y axis against RPM on the X axis.  In this mode, you can
> > select 1 point, 10 point (it looks like a snake moving around the graph), or
> > ghost trace where all points remain illuminated until reset. You can also do a
> > manual hold, but I'm not sure if the peak hold works on this display.  It was
> > with this graph in ghost trace that I could determine the RPM where my IDC
> > usually hit 100%.

Them thar is my words ;), I can't remember who I sent them to though.

>
> This made me thinking as you can only attach to the RPM OR the INJECTOR wire at
> once to the ECU.

Why Apexi didn't provide one more wire so you can have both RPM and IDC
connected I'll never know.  Maybe they will in the future.

I originally connected to the IDC wire.  Now I have a switch installed.  I
normally leave it selected so I connect to the RPM wire, but I can select the
IDC whenever I choose.  I highly recommend doing this!

> So if the IDC is attched how does the unit know the RPM ???

Good question, I don't know.  My best guess is that it monitors the injector
pulse frequency and divides by 6 (also when connected to the IDC wire, you have
to set your engine type to 1 cylinder instead of 6 cylinder). 

> I
> was walking up and down the manual and often found the note or warning about
> whatever is connected. For sure, the most interesting diaplys would be boost
> against rpm and IDC against RPM. The first is no problem but what if the sensor
> line is connected to the injector wire ? The manual says that the self learning
> mode as well as gear learning is not workign well when IDC is connected isntead
> of RPM. What are your experiences here ?

DISPLAY:
When the injectors max out to 100%, the IDC to RPM conversion algorithm fails.
Any graph display with RPM on the X axis shows points in random places until IDC
falls below 100%.  Any RPM display shows bogus values.

LEARNING:
The Apexi allows you to specify different boost values at eight selectable RPM
bands.  Normally the Apexi LEARNS the correct boost solenoid duty value for each
RPM band.  However duty settings are not learned/updated correctly above the RPM
(about 4400RPM or so) where IDC maxes out.

Definitely install the new-blue Apexi SAVC-R to the RPM wire.  If you will want
to monitor the IDC, then install a simple toggle switch to allow selection
between the RPM and IDC wire.

Good luck,
Ken
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 13:05:24 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:03:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: Andrew Burke <burke@pas.rochester.edu>
To: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
cc: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bent Key
In-Reply-To: <01ec01bf192d$f306e000$10c9c9c9@benson>
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> I'm not sure, but isn't there something where you can give mitsubishi yer
> VIN and they can get you a key?  not sure, I might be thinking of a
> different car part.  Else yer going to have to pay a locksmith to come out
> and mold a key for it on the spot :(.

yes, you can do this... I went to get a new key and all you need is your
VIN... and I belive you need to have the title with you for obvious
reasons...

they have a really cool tool to do it, too...

andy

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 13:11:05 1999
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Thanks all, I went to the mitsubishi dealer and they were able to make a new key on the
spot using the numbers engraved on the side of the key for $4.

Thanks for your help,
--Rich

Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell wrote:

> I'm not sure, but isn't there something where you can give mitsubishi yer
> VIN and they can get you a key?  not sure, I might be thinking of a
> different car part.  Else yer going to have to pay a locksmith to come out
> and mold a key for it on the spot :(.
>
> Latufh fuh U,
> Benson
> benson@2015.com
>
> "-Do you ever have second thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 13:50:06 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 15:44:10 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Road America Track Report
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There's good news and bad news.

The good news:  Road America was designed for VR4s. The ultra long
straights let the turbos sing, so almost no street-driven car can keep up
with a stock VR4 (except one car, a souped-up Supra. See below). In my
stock VR4, I was able to pass BMW M3s, Z3 sedans, and all the lesser BMW
versions (318, 540i, an older M6, etc.);  Porsche 911s including Carreras
and turbos, Porsche 944s including turbos; and -- as far as I can tell --
every car in my class, save one (the Supra).  No one else passed me all
weekend. The VR4 rules!  (There were no Vipers or twin-turbo AWD Porsches
in my group). All drivers were considered Intermediates, meaning we had
some track or school experience, and required instructors.

The bad news:  Braking at the end of ultra long straights causes tremendous
wear on the pads. I'm running Porterfield rotors, Porterfield R4 pads front
and rear, air ducts to the front, and water injection to the center of the
rotors (not the rotor surface). Still, I wore down a set of front R4 pads
in three 25 minute track sessions.  The only good news in all this is that
the brakes WILL stop the car, and they do not fade. They just wear out.

A lap of Road America in a stock VR4 with Yokohama 032R tires:
(From memory, because my track map disappeared)

First of all, RA is mostly a lot of early apex turns, different from most
tracks. It's a lot of: Go very fast, brake, turn in very early under power,
clip the apex at full power, and drift to the outside. Then full power down
another long straight to the next corner. I can't remember a single late
apex turn (maybe 8, see below, because I never got it right). My instructor
didn't use such terms anyway -- it was "turn in here, get on the power
NOW," or "brake, Brake, BRAKE, BRAKE!!!." My favorite was, "If you do that
again, you'll total this car!" (I was doing something bad in the Kink, see
below) He got my attention.  Although he completely disagreed with the Skip
Barber school instructors who were giving the chalk sessions, he certainly
knew the fast way around, because he took me for a ride in his
race-prepared 944.

But I digress. Here's a lap of Road America in a VR4:

Long uphill from turn 14 to the start-finish line at 100. Continue
accelerating uphill, hitting about 120 before braking for turn 1.
Turn 1 is a long sweeping right, taken in third gear at about 70-75.

Accelerate out, then flat through 2  (a corner in name only) up to about
100, brake, then into a sweeping right at 3 onto the back straight at about
70-80. Speed through 3 is critical, because it leads to a one-mile straight.

Turn 4, in the middle of the straight, is taken flat at about 100 (another
non corner), then it's downhill through the woods to turn 5 at about 130.

Turn 5 is the brake killer: it's a downhill, 90-deg left that tightens, so
you gotta go all the way from 130 down to 2nd gear at about 45 mph. I wore
down my rightside pads first on this turn because of the tremendous heavy
braking. Power through 5 in 2nd, then up the hill to 6, a sharp left after
a bridge. Brake before going under the bridge, then turn left into 6 after
the bridge.

7 is a sweeping right. Stab the brakes slightly to transfer weight, turn in
way before the corner (very early apex), then power on through the apex and
down the hill at about 105 to turn 8, the toughest turn (for me). It's a
downhill sharp left, a little off camber, and I never did get the braking
and turn-in quite right for two days.

Turn 8 is the carousel. This is a fairly easy, constant radius turn to the
right taken three ft off the inside curb in 3rd gear at about 65. My son
also took his Fiero through here at 65. At the end, pinch tighter to the
curb, feed in the power, drift left and accelerate up about 105-110 before
the infamous Kink.

(without my map, I lose track of corner numbers, so bear with me)
To take the Kink, tap the brakes at the entry, feed in gas smoothly, turn
in to the right about 50 yards before the apex and clip the apex in 4th
gear, at about 95. Then feed more and more power, clip the exit,  move to
the right a little, turn in to the left by turning the wheel about 1/8 turn
to the left, and just hold it there. From here, it's a constant-radius
series of turns taken flat out, foot to the floor, turbos pulling like
crazy in 4th from 110 mph up to gawdonlyknows how fast, and it's the
fastest part of the track. In all my track experiences so far, going from
the Kink to Canada Corner is the most exciting thing I've ever done. It's
also mesmerizing -- you get so enthralled with the experience of going so
fast,  the car in its element, doing exactly what those Japanese design
engineers intended, that it's hypnotic -- omigawd, I'm in a corner at well
over 100 mph and the car is still accelerating! Let this feeling go on
forever! -- problem is, you tend to forget that Canada Corner is coming up
and OSHIT I GOTTASTOPTHISSUCKER!!!  Whew!  Luckily, the R4s do work, and
they do stop the car, although it gets exciting if you wait too long and
the instructor yells a lot (see above).

My son in his Fiero could also go flat from the entry of the Kink to Canada
Corner, and he was hitting about 105 when he reached his braking point.

Canada Corner is a sweeping right. Brake, hit the apex under full power in
3rd gear, drift left to the exit and bring it back to the right for a
medium left under a bridge. My instructor would have me stab the brakes to
transfer weight, then full power back on, clip the apex on the left and let
it drift wide to the right then straighten up and flat to the braking point
for corner 14.

My son was flat in his Fiero from Canada Corner to 14; I was flat in 3rd
most of the way, but I had to stab the brakes before the bridge because I
was carrying too much speed. We both arrived at 14 doing about 100 mph.
(Judging by his descriptions of speeds and corners, his automatic V6 Fiero
sticks like glue and stops extremely well, so on his very first driving
event, he was keeping up with other novices in M3s and other cars through
the turns. They ate him up on the straights, of course.).

Turn 14 is a hard right onto the front straight at about 60, in 3rd. From
there, it's just a highway cruise up the long hill all the way to turn 1.

I never achieved ALL of the above in a single lap -- by the time I learned
the perfect lines, I was into save-the-brakes mode big time, and was no
longer attempting to stop the car from speeds over 100. Instead, I would
lift long before the corner, so that I entered the braking zone at 100. (If
I was running for lap times, I would attempt to run a lap the way I
described above.) Instead, I would just use the straights to pass lesser
cars, like M3s and 911s, at speeds of 110-120, get in front, and then lift
to coast back down to 100. They'd close up under braking, mad as hornets,
but then I'd run away from them.

About the Supra:
Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
better.

NEXT: ADVENTURES IN BRAKING IV
.
Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!





For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 13:57:31 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring
Date: Fri, 15 Oct 1999 02:14:45 -0700
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Hi Jeff,

I had a similar problem with my car last year.
It turned up to be fouled up plugs, even though they were less than 1 year
old.

I guess certain conditions can cause them to go south.
Try removing all 3 front ones.  If you have black smot all around the tips,
you're
running rich and have probably fouled up your plugs.

It's a long shot, but it may work.
Best of luck

-Noble


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 9:31 AM
Subject: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring


>My '92 VR4 was running fine before I changed the oil. I changed over to
>synthetic oil, flushing the motor first. It cranked up and ran fine. I
drove it
>for about 10 minutes and stopped. After the engine cooled down a bit, I
decided
>to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed the procedures
correctly
>(warm not hot engine, covered air filters and BOV). After I cranked it back
up,
>the engine was running rough. I drove it into the garage and let it sit
>overnight, thinking that water had gotten someplace it shouldn't and would
dry
>out. The next morning. It was still running rough. It wasn't a steady
missfire,
>but would misfire under slight acceleration, and would
pull-and-jerk-and-pop
>under heavy acceleration (like it does if your boost is set too high and
it's
>starving for fuel). After driving like this for about 5 minutes, it tried
to
>smooth out, as the engine quit misfiring under normal load, but would still
>pull-jerk-pop under heavy acceleration. I drove it another 20 minutes,
stopped
>for an hour, and when I started it back up, it began misfiring almost
>continuously. I put a bottle of injector cleaner in the gas, drove for
about 10
>minutes, let it sit overnight, and when I fired it up the next morning, it
ran
>smooth for about 2 minutes, then misfires continuously. Under heavy
>acceleration, it still pulls-jerks-pops like before.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 14:04:13 1999
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From: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
To: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America Track Report
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:08:50 -0500
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Hi Rich - Found a pic of your track here: http://www.ompusa.com/grm/ra.htm

Looks (and sounds) like way too much fun for my fainting heart...

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [SMTP:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Monday, October 18, 1999 3:44 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Road America Track Report
>
> There's good news and bad news.
>
> The good news:  Road America was designed for VR4s. The ultra long
> straights let the turbos sing, so almost no street-driven car can keep up
> with a stock VR4 (except one car, a souped-up Supra. See below). In my
> stock VR4, I was able to pass BMW M3s, Z3 sedans, and all the lesser BMW
> versions (318, 540i, an older M6, etc.);  Porsche 911s including Carreras
> and turbos, Porsche 944s including turbos; and -- as far as I can tell --
> every car in my class, save one (the Supra).  No one else passed me all
> weekend. The VR4 rules!  (There were no Vipers or twin-turbo AWD Porsches
> in my group). All drivers were considered Intermediates, meaning we had
> some track or school experience, and required instructors.
>
> The bad news:  Braking at the end of ultra long straights causes
> tremendous
> wear on the pads. I'm running Porterfield rotors, Porterfield R4 pads
> front
> and rear, air ducts to the front, and water injection to the center of the
> rotors (not the rotor surface). Still, I wore down a set of front R4 pads
> in three 25 minute track sessions.  The only good news in all this is that
> the brakes WILL stop the car, and they do not fade. They just wear out.
>
> A lap of Road America in a stock VR4 with Yokohama 032R tires:
> (From memory, because my track map disappeared)
>
> First of all, RA is mostly a lot of early apex turns, different from most
> tracks. It's a lot of: Go very fast, brake, turn in very early under
> power,
> clip the apex at full power, and drift to the outside. Then full power
> down
> another long straight to the next corner. I can't remember a single late
> apex turn (maybe 8, see below, because I never got it right). My
> instructor
> didn't use such terms anyway -- it was "turn in here, get on the power
> NOW," or "brake, Brake, BRAKE, BRAKE!!!." My favorite was, "If you do that
> again, you'll total this car!" (I was doing something bad in the Kink, see
> below) He got my attention.  Although he completely disagreed with the
> Skip
> Barber school instructors who were giving the chalk sessions, he certainly
> knew the fast way around, because he took me for a ride in his
> race-prepared 944.
>
> But I digress. Here's a lap of Road America in a VR4:
>
> Long uphill from turn 14 to the start-finish line at 100. Continue
> accelerating uphill, hitting about 120 before braking for turn 1.
> Turn 1 is a long sweeping right, taken in third gear at about 70-75.
>
> Accelerate out, then flat through 2  (a corner in name only) up to about
> 100, brake, then into a sweeping right at 3 onto the back straight at
> about
> 70-80. Speed through 3 is critical, because it leads to a one-mile
> straight.
>
> Turn 4, in the middle of the straight, is taken flat at about 100 (another
> non corner), then it's downhill through the woods to turn 5 at about 130.
>
> Turn 5 is the brake killer: it's a downhill, 90-deg left that tightens, so
> you gotta go all the way from 130 down to 2nd gear at about 45 mph. I wore
> down my rightside pads first on this turn because of the tremendous heavy
> braking. Power through 5 in 2nd, then up the hill to 6, a sharp left after
> a bridge. Brake before going under the bridge, then turn left into 6 after
> the bridge.
>
> 7 is a sweeping right. Stab the brakes slightly to transfer weight, turn
> in
> way before the corner (very early apex), then power on through the apex
> and
> down the hill at about 105 to turn 8, the toughest turn (for me). It's a
> downhill sharp left, a little off camber, and I never did get the braking
> and turn-in quite right for two days.
>
> Turn 8 is the carousel. This is a fairly easy, constant radius turn to the
> right taken three ft off the inside curb in 3rd gear at about 65. My son
> also took his Fiero through here at 65. At the end, pinch tighter to the
> curb, feed in the power, drift left and accelerate up about 105-110 before
> the infamous Kink.
>
> (without my map, I lose track of corner numbers, so bear with me)
> To take the Kink, tap the brakes at the entry, feed in gas smoothly, turn
> in to the right about 50 yards before the apex and clip the apex in 4th
> gear, at about 95. Then feed more and more power, clip the exit,  move to
> the right a little, turn in to the left by turning the wheel about 1/8
> turn
> to the left, and just hold it there. From here, it's a constant-radius
> series of turns taken flat out, foot to the floor, turbos pulling like
> crazy in 4th from 110 mph up to gawdonlyknows how fast, and it's the
> fastest part of the track. In all my track experiences so far, going from
> the Kink to Canada Corner is the most exciting thing I've ever done. It's
> also mesmerizing -- you get so enthralled with the experience of going so
> fast,  the car in its element, doing exactly what those Japanese design
> engineers intended, that it's hypnotic -- omigawd, I'm in a corner at well
> over 100 mph and the car is still accelerating! Let this feeling go on
> forever! -- problem is, you tend to forget that Canada Corner is coming up
> and OSHIT I GOTTASTOPTHISSUCKER!!!  Whew!  Luckily, the R4s do work, and
> they do stop the car, although it gets exciting if you wait too long and
> the instructor yells a lot (see above).
>
> My son in his Fiero could also go flat from the entry of the Kink to
> Canada
> Corner, and he was hitting about 105 when he reached his braking point.
>
> Canada Corner is a sweeping right. Brake, hit the apex under full power in
> 3rd gear, drift left to the exit and bring it back to the right for a
> medium left under a bridge. My instructor would have me stab the brakes to
> transfer weight, then full power back on, clip the apex on the left and
> let
> it drift wide to the right then straighten up and flat to the braking
> point
> for corner 14.
>
> My son was flat in his Fiero from Canada Corner to 14; I was flat in 3rd
> most of the way, but I had to stab the brakes before the bridge because I
> was carrying too much speed. We both arrived at 14 doing about 100 mph.
> (Judging by his descriptions of speeds and corners, his automatic V6 Fiero
> sticks like glue and stops extremely well, so on his very first driving
> event, he was keeping up with other novices in M3s and other cars through
> the turns. They ate him up on the straights, of course.).
>
> Turn 14 is a hard right onto the front straight at about 60, in 3rd. From
> there, it's just a highway cruise up the long hill all the way to turn 1.
>
> I never achieved ALL of the above in a single lap -- by the time I learned
> the perfect lines, I was into save-the-brakes mode big time, and was no
> longer attempting to stop the car from speeds over 100. Instead, I would
> lift long before the corner, so that I entered the braking zone at 100.
> (If
> I was running for lap times, I would attempt to run a lap the way I
> described above.) Instead, I would just use the straights to pass lesser
> cars, like M3s and 911s, at speeds of 110-120, get in front, and then lift
> to coast back down to 100. They'd close up under braking, mad as hornets,
> but then I'd run away from them.
>
> About the Supra:
> Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
> what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
> train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
> like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
> and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
> whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
> better.
>
> NEXT: ADVENTURES IN BRAKING IV
> .
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
>
>
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 14:33:45 1999
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Message-ID: <000e01bf19b0$3587e460$53c0e6c2@rg>
From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <3.0.5.32.19991018154410.0089b420@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 23:26:01 +0200
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> Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
> what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
> train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
> like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
> and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
> whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
> better.

Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we are
running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys car
runs like hell since then. He's running 1.6 kg/cm2 = 22.7 psi with just an
AVC-R, Apexi filter, Field fuel controller (that does not much) and downpipe
(no cats). We once drove a little bit fast on nice roads and I was not able
to follow him on straight roads. But in and out of the turns I was back on
his tail (AWD rules). The thing is really fast even as an automatic ... not
bad.

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 14:40:25 1999
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From: "Kevin Volkan" <kevin@3si.zzn.com>
Message-Id: <199910181434551@kevin.3si.zzn.com>
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 17:39:51 -0400
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I've had a similar smell at times - seems to be the clutch. I usually get it after I have used the clutch hard - might be a signal that its time to replace the clutch?

Kevin

3Si News and Events http://www.3si.org
___________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 15:02:10 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <3.0.5.32.19991018154410.0089b420@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: EE knowledge needed (important)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 00:00:14 +0200
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Friends,

Although I have a degree in EE I forgot everything about analoge techniques
as I always was the computer freak. But maybe you know that I'm testing a
new ignition system as well as I had a new idea about enhancing our stock
ignition system.

Now, I'm able to draw a schematic dagram but I don't know how to calculate a
high current switch with an analoge inverter as well I'm not familiar with
the available transistor types. I therefore would highly appreciate the help
of an EE that has good knowledge of the stuff. I think it would be easy as I
know all input parameters and I can solder the parts together on a test
circuit and test it out on my car. Also it would help when the schematic
diagram can be checked out as I may missed a part or so.

So, every EE with good experience and knowledge please email me and I can
send you the details I've put together. The result will then be a pretty
cheap ignition enhancer that should be able to create more power to the
spark. Then a small ignition amplifier like the B&M can be added to inrease
the voltage even more to fully cure our hesitation problem.

Thanks in advance,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 15:08:05 1999
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To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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At 11:26 PM 10/18/99 +0200, R.G. wrote:
>> Having never been passed by a car quite so fast before, I had to find out
>> what he had. I could see him coming in my mirrors like a blue freight
>> train, gobbling me up by 10-20 car lengths on each straight. He went by me
>> like a rocket ship.
>
>Make the hp figure above 500hp !

Thanks Roger. I feel even better now!

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 15:08:10 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:06:45 -0500
To: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America Track Report
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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At 04:08 PM 10/18/99 -0500, Landis, Michael wrote:
>Hi Rich - Found a pic of your track here: http://www.ompusa.com/grm/ra.htm
>Looks (and sounds) like way too much fun for my fainting heart...
>
Thanks! I see that the Carousel is turn 9, not 8. Ooops.

Rich/old poop

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 16:09:51 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 16:10:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Check out my new updated site!
To: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>, Jeff Bognar <jeff083077@hotmail.com>,
        Courtney Chu <veilsdegto@aol.com>, Dave <Addendum@aol.com>,
        Dave <DJS3000@aol.com>, Benison de Vera <XCricKX@aol.com>,
        Dennis <stealthes91@pinoymail.com>, Eric <suthnr@geocities.com>,
        RichJD Fowler <richfowler@home.com>, Roger Gerl <robby@swissonline.ch>,
        Bill Munroe <bmunroe@home.com>, Nav <moondin@megahits.com>,
        Quincy <sychofunk@aol.com>, Jose Soriano <Amahoser@Linkline.com>,
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        Team3SI <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
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Hi Fellow 3S owners,

Check out me new and updated site.  Im still a
beginner at the HTML stuff.. let me know what you
think. Thanx.

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/8576/Intro.html

George Kuo
3SI#0139

P.S. Sorry Team3S List for a non topic!


=====

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Do You Yahoo!?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 17:17:37 1999
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From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: VGX pads..... any good?
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 20:16:26 -0400
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I can get VGX pads at a great price (compared to others) but what am I
really getting?  Anyone have any experience with there pads?  At $19.95 a
set if they wear twice as fast as the others I will still be ahead of the
game.  They are made by Brembo..... can't be all that bad can they?

TIA,

Kevin

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 18:28:07 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:27:31 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Possible source for synchros?
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Saw an ad for this importer of drive train components. Quaife engineering
offers complete gear sets for various cars - didn't see 3000GT/Stealth
listed, but I did see diff. sets for Eclipse/Talon/Laser cars.

check it out:

http://www.autotech.com/qpsnew.htm

This outfit might be able to supply synchros after the current supply dries
up? (Jack Tertadian is the only other source I know of - he uses some amazing
sort of diplomacy to sneak synchros directly from Getrag for us)

Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 18:52:59 1999
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From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Engine
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I was wondering exactly what kind of a powerplant a 98 3000GT would be
using? is it a 4g63 or a 6g72b?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 19:19:07 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: My Baby's Sick - Misfiring
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> My '92 VR4 was running fine before I changed the oil. I changed over to
> synthetic oil, flushing the motor first. It cranked up and ran fine. I drove it
> for about 10 minutes and stopped. After the engine cooled down a bit, I decided
> to clean it using a degreaser and water. I followed the procedures correctly
> (warm not hot engine, covered air filters and BOV). After I cranked it back up,
> the engine was running rough. I drove it into the garage and let it sit
> overnight, thinking that water had gotten someplace it shouldn't and would dry
> -====================================================

You may have gotten water in the spark plug wells ---- plug wire problems will
cause missfire under load.


   Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 20:08:02 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America Track Report
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Great race report.  Wish I could have been there.  By the judging of you
race commentary I think you'd enjoy Brainerd International Raceway up her in
Minnesota.  At turn 1 off the long straight I was consistently doing 140.  A
very seasoned race driver in a '97 AWD 911T reported 154!  He had them big
brakes too...
We are going to BIR twice next year.  I'll keep you informed in case you
want to come up here and see some trees :)  I'd like to do more events next
year, hopefully expanding to other tracks in the region.  Hopefully we will
run the same track at some point.

Question: Have you tried the heat treatment of the R4s??  That would be BBQ.
I recall someone reporting double life expectancy after this treatment.  Are
you using the racing compound R4s??

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

> There's good news and bad news.
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 23:00:51 1999
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Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 22:57:53 -0700
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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"R.G." wrote:

> > like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
> > and had installed lots of goodies such as downpipes, injectors, chips and
> > whatnot,  was making 400+ hp, and weighed 3450 lb. Made me feel a little
> > better.
>
> Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
> ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we are
> running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys car

Here's an analysis by a friend of mine (and a Supra guru):

>Nice. But informe that guy that 28 PSI is roughly 750 RWHP in a Supra;)
>The guy was obviously lying about the boost he was running. Plus the stock
>turbos can't do 28 PSI anyway.

--Errin Humphrey


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 18 23:29:04 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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>> > like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost (28psi!!),
>> >
Roger said:
>> Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
>> ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we
are
>> running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys
car

Errin said:
>Here's an analysis by a friend of mine (and a Supra guru):
>
>>Nice. But informe that guy that 28 PSI is roughly 750 RWHP in a Supra;)
>>The guy was obviously lying about the boost he was running. Plus the stock
>>turbos can't do 28 PSI anyway.

Or maybe he had upgraded the turbos, too. 750 hp? I feel  better all the
time about getting passed.

Rich/old poop

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Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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In a message dated 10/19/99 1:29:58 AM Central Daylight Time,
merritt@cedar-rapids.net writes:

<< >> > like a rocket ship.  He said he was running two bars of boost
(28psi!!),
>> >
Roger said:
>> Make the hp figure above 500hp ! Also the torque curve is damn higher than
>> ours. But the cars are not as effective because running 28psi is like we
are
>> running 22psi. Their downpipe eliminates pre- and main cat and my buddys
car

Errin said:
>Here's an analysis by a friend of mine (and a Supra guru):
>
>>Nice. But informe that guy that 28 PSI is roughly 750 RWHP in a Supra;)
>>The guy was obviously lying about the boost he was running. Plus the stock
>>turbos can't do 28 PSI anyway.

Or maybe he had upgraded the turbos, too. 750 hp? I feel  better all the
time about getting passed.

Rich/old poop
  >>

    Most hardcore Supra owners convert their Sequential twin turbo set-up
into a Single conversion set up!!  Two of my friends have these set ups!!! 
AMAZINGLY fast set ups!!!!!   If the guy said he was running 28psi - I'm
almost willing to bet that it was a Single HUGE Turbo ( I believe, it's
referred to as a T-66 turbo; but don't quote me on that!!)  I wonder if
someone will ever be able to convert our parallel Twin Turbo set up into a
single HUGE Turbo set up?????  (I'm sure this thought has been discussed
before!  And something tells me - it's NOT possible!)

By the way Rich,  EXCELLENT Post !!!!! 

Talk to you all later,
Ahmed.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 03:09:23 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Engine
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6G72 is the type of all 3S cars. I'm not sure about the "b" but could be a
generation code (b = 4 bolt main)

>I was wondering exactly what kind of a powerplant a 98 3000GT would be
>using? is it a 4g63 or a 6g72b?


// Roger

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 05:53:56 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 07:57:59 -0500
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> I wonder if someone will ever be able to convert our parallel
> Twin Turbo set up into a single HUGE Turbo set up?????  (I'm
> sure this thought has been discussed before!  And something
> tells me - it's NOT possible!)

Possible, yes.  Realistic, no.  Essentially you'd have your large turbo somewhere in the downpipe where both sets of exhaust flow were collected before entering the turbo.  You'd lose a lot of the exhaust pulse power and EGT's would have a chance to cool somewhat before reaching that point.

Easy to do on a straight-six, not so easy on a V6 - and overall whether you have two small turbos or one large turbo it doesn't make that much difference if the flow rates overall are similar.  Well, except for the thinness of your wallet buying two turbos.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 08:04:42 1999
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From: "Dg B" <dbretton@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Laser Jammer Info
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 11:04:18 EDT
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Hi All!

   Don't know if this is a "taboo" subject here, but with all of you here
who have Go-Go-fast cars, I would think that some of you would have looked
into this.
Just to be safe, if you could reply privately, I would greatly appreciate
it. :)

Here's my message/question:

   Well, it now looks like the "staties" in my area have now updated their
arsenal to include laser guns!  Oh, horrible day. :(

Now I need to keep up with the Jones's in blue, and am currently looking for
a laser jamming device.

Can anyone lend a hand with some useful information about which laser
jammers work well, and how well they would work with my Valentine 1?

Much obliged!

Regards,
   Dennis

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 09:06:20 1999
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Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 10:59:40 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Road America experience on video/web site
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A new friend of mine put his experiences at Road America onto a web site:

http://www.gagme.com/~greg/911/track/roadamerica1.html

Included is video of a complete lap and lots of photos. Bear in mind that
he's driving an inferior Porsche 911, so he's going a lot slower than we
do. Still, you can certainly get the idea of what it's like out there.

Note that in the kink, he passes a car. The car waves him by -- that's the
only way you are allowed to pass.

It's a great site!  Check it out.
You guys CAN do this!

Rich/old poop/94 VR4


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 12:00:59 1999
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To: "Matt Jannusch" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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Yes but the 300zx's are V6, and they have single turbo upgrades... why is it
different in our case?

Carlos


-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 8:55 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America (Supra)


>> I wonder if someone will ever be able to convert our parallel
>> Twin Turbo set up into a single HUGE Turbo set up?????  (I'm
>> sure this thought has been discussed before!  And something
>> tells me - it's NOT possible!)
>
>Possible, yes.  Realistic, no.  Essentially you'd have your large turbo
somewhere in the downpipe where both sets of exhaust flow were collected
before entering the turbo.  You'd lose a lot of the exhaust pulse power and
EGT's would have a chance to cool somewhat before reaching that point.
>
>Easy to do on a straight-six, not so easy on a V6 - and overall whether you
have two small turbos or one large turbo it doesn't make that much
difference if the flow rates overall are similar.  Well, except for the
thinness of your wallet buying two turbos.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 12:46:51 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 14:50:57 -0500
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> Yes but the 300zx's are V6, and they have single turbo
> upgrades... why is it different in our case?

Okay, so you want to make a single turbo upgrade for 3/S cars...  Here's what you need:

Custom piping from the exhaust manifolds to the single turbo
  (or custom headers that collect behind motor)
Custom turbo to cat (or rear exhaust) piping with flanges for both
Custom air intake from turbo to MAF (or whatever else you are using)
Custom piping from turbo to intercoolers
Big Single Turbo - T3/T4 hybrid???
Room for all this stuff under the car
Room for piping to get from under car to intercoolers/intake
Area where turbo won't get pummeled with water and debris
Heat shielding for area above turbo so it doesn't start your interior carpet on fire from the heat transfer through the floor

How do you handle the intercoolers?  Run them sequential or in parallel, or do the correct solution and do a front-mount?  If you do a front-mount, don't forget the $1800 for that.

I'm just not seeing the benefit of going through all this work to set up a single turbo.  What's the advantage in having a single instead of twin turbos?

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 13:56:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 22:58:54 +0200
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You won't gain anything from a singleturbo setup. The Supra people upgrades
to a Single turbo because it costs less with one turbo than two turbos. The
twin turbo upgrades costs both an arm and a leg (Ask Jack, he installed some
HKS twins on a friends Supra a few weeks ago). The Supras sequential turbos
works as a single turbo anyway ,what I mean is that only one turbo at  a
time produce boost.

You won't gain anything with a single turbo upgrade, maybe just save some
money on the turbo, but you will end up spending more money in the end. You
will also have to upgrade all Intercooler parts since you will get a flow
problem with our stock piping and cores.

Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu

----- Original Message -----
From: SkoobY <pir8ska@shadow.net>
To: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>; <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)


Yes but the 300zx's are V6, and they have single turbo upgrades... why is it
different in our case?

Carlos


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 17:04:54 1999
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To: "Matt Jannusch" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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>>SNIP!
or do the correct solution and do a front-mount?  If you do a front-mount,
don't forget the $1800 for that.
>>SNIP!

By the way, i am getting a custom front mount intercooler done very soon for
my car... i bought a rather large intercooler from a large izuzu rig for
$200 its 12' wide and about 14' tall and 2' thick. i am getting it cut
vertically and stacked one behind the other, so i'll have a core ~7'tall,
12' wide and ~4' thick. the machining and making of the endtanks will run me
about another $200. and finally (the difficult part) the intercooler
piping... i haven't decided on the thickness yet... i'll probably go with 2
1/2' pipng... any suggestions?  i have no idea what this part will cost me
though... i'm hoping to have it all done for under $800, but then again,
something always goes wrong  =)

anyways, i just decided to mention it, since intercoolers were brought up...
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 19, 1999 3:51 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Road America (Supra)


>> Yes but the 300zx's are V6, and they have single turbo
>> upgrades... why is it different in our case?
>
>Okay, so you want to make a single turbo upgrade for 3/S cars...  Here's
what you need:
>
>Custom piping from the exhaust manifolds to the single turbo
>  (or custom headers that collect behind motor)
>Custom turbo to cat (or rear exhaust) piping with flanges for both
>Custom air intake from turbo to MAF (or whatever else you are using)
>Custom piping from turbo to intercoolers
>Big Single Turbo - T3/T4 hybrid???
>Room for all this stuff under the car
>Room for piping to get from under car to intercoolers/intake
>Area where turbo won't get pummeled with water and debris
>Heat shielding for area above turbo so it doesn't start your interior
carpet on fire from the heat transfer through the floor
>
>How do you handle the intercoolers?  Run them sequential or in parallel, or
do the correct solution and do a front-mount?  If you do a front-mount,
don't forget the $1800 for that.
>
>I'm just not seeing the benefit of going through all this work to set up a
single turbo.  What's the advantage in having a single instead of twin
turbos?
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 17:30:47 1999
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Reply-To: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: License Plates
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 20:31:02 -0400
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Yeah.. yeah...

Here I am again.  I bought my 3000GT base just over 5 months
ago and I'm finally getting into doing some mods. 

I bought a base GT on purpose so I wouldn't go over the top
customizing it.  (so much for that...) I also had some turbo
problems with my '95 GSX that put me off turbos for a bit.
I live in New England and the cold weather can be a problem
with turbos when you're running the car year round.  That car
was my third turbo in a row.  I had an '89 Dodge Dayton CS Turbo
Special Edition, a '90 Eclipse GST and a '95 Eclipse GSX.

I wanted a gorgeous non-turbo machine that I could run all year.
(I'm buying a Jeep Cherokee so I can garage the 3000 for
three months.) My plans seem to be going awry, here.
I just got a $10,000 bonus for all the incredibly hard work
I've done for my company in conquering our Y2K issues.
I worked 42 out of 43 days at one point, and 12 hour days
weren't really all that odd.

So.. now I have money...  I have a 3000GT...  I'm wicked
compulsive with new toyz.  Sounds like trouble, eh?

Thanx to the input from a lot of you guys, the car is really
starting to come around.  I'm shooting for 250HP, and I
think I can obtain that without problem.  I know I've been
a bit of a pain in the keister for the past few months with
an overabundance of questions...  But if I have to ask
someone... I want to ask the pros.

Thanx again to all of you guys who gave me your opinion
on which wheels I should buy.  I'm ordering them tomorrow.
I'm down to three choices and if I have to toss a coin... so be it.

NOW.. I'm into ordereing vanity plates.  I've got 5 hours into
the Massachusetts Registry of Motor Vehicles vanity plate
database.  I couldn't order lunch, about now. 

Take a look at my site... and PLEASE let me know which
plate you like best... thanx AGAIN for your time, input and
cameraderie...

http://www.warpedweb.com/3000GT

Select "Which Plate Should I Grab"
from the menu...

Thanx...

-G




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 19:17:21 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible source for synchros?
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 1999 20:00:55 -0700
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-----Original Message-----
From: Klusmanp@aol.com <Klusmanp@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 5:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: Possible source for synchros?


The Quaife engineering team makes excellent components....for select cars.
I dont beleve they'll make any parts for our cars unless there is enough
demand in the marketplace to warrant
production.

Maybe we can bug 'em for some?
Noble


>Saw an ad for this importer of drive train components. Quaife engineering
>offers complete gear sets for various cars - didn't see 3000GT/Stealth
>listed, but I did see diff. sets for Eclipse/Talon/Laser cars.
>
>check it out:
>
>http://www.autotech.com/qpsnew.htm
>
>This outfit might be able to supply synchros after the current supply dries
>up? (Jack Tertadian is the only other source I know of - he uses some
amazing
>sort of diplomacy to sneak synchros directly from Getrag for us)
>
>Paul Klusman
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 19 21:27:25 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 06:32:48 +0100
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Gil Gomes wrote:
>
> NOW.. I'm into ordereing vanity plates.

Gil,
It looks like you have accidentally posted to the wrong list.  This is
the tecnical list, and your topic belongs on the starnet list.  Thanx.

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 06:12:05 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 09:11:40 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Need RC Engineering's info
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Can someone please inform me of RC Engineering's phone #, address and email
address.    

Thank You,

Ahmed.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 06:29:07 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 09:28:27 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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In a message dated 10/19/99 3:59:43 PM Central Daylight Time, vr4@bahnhof.se
writes:

<< You won't gain anything with a single turbo upgrade, maybe just save some
money on the turbo, but you will end up spending more money in the end. You
will also have to upgrade all Intercooler parts since you will get a flow
problem with our stock piping and cores.

Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
  >>


Point well taken!

Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 06:48:26 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <TurboDrvn@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Need RC Engineering's info
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 15:48:55 +0200
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http://www.rceng.com/

Roger
93'3000GT TT

-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Mittwoch, 20. Oktober 1999 15:10
Subject: Team3S: Need RC Engineering's info


>Can someone please inform me of RC Engineering's phone #, address and email
>address.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 08:34:34 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:34:03 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Transfer Case
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Hi all,
I need to get another transfer case and I'm trying to determine which one I
need. I don't want to take it off until another one arrives as I can't afford
the downtime. I have a '92 Stealth RT/TT. The transfer case has a part number
MR165234 and a stamping number of MBG01338 with build date of 9/91. Kormex
can't determine whether this is large or small spine. The local dealerships
didn't know there was a difference. Can anyone tell from the above info which
I need  or deirect me to someone that would know?
TIA
Paul
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 08:58:52 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "stealth@starnet.net" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
References: <005b01bf1a65$59ad1e40$967cfea9@scooby> <004401bf1a74$c1efa5e0$e20aa8c0@mikaela>
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Single turbo is cheaper than 2 turbos.  Some think a twin spools up
quicker than a single, if so it is minor factor.  Twin may allow more
lbs/hour of airflow total than a single that FITS.  Twin looks and
sounds cooler,  bench-racing wise  :)
The Supra with 3" exhaust, EVC-EZ boost control, G-Force computer,
HKS twin turbo and frontmount intercooler went 12.1 @ 127-129mph
on street tires (no traction, shows the superiority of the 3000/Stealth VR4
on street tires--I went 10.8 @ 128 on street tires!)
  With BFGoodrich drag radials and "50hp" NOS, went 11.43 @ 131
but was only 700psi in bottle, NOS not much gain.  I drove the car to 133.8mph
with NOS on street tires (I drive car a little better.  Not as MUCH better as I
did my buddy's 1993 3000, he was going 13.3 @ 110...he has alot of mods and
couldn't figure why was so slow.  I made ONE pass, and did 11.95@113.somthing
so he is happier with car, less so with himself, but with experience he'll  improve).

Jack Tertadian
a hired gun, since nothing fast I own runs (well at least the ZX9R is back ok now)



Mikael Åkesson wrote:

> Supra people upgrades to Single turbo because costs less.
> twin turbo upgrade costs arm and a leg (Ask Jack, he installed some
> HKS twins on Supra few weeks ago). Supras sequential turbos
> works as single turbo anyway
>
> You won't gain with single turbo,  just save
> money on turbo, end up spending more money in the end.
> will have to upgrade all Intercooler parts
> Mikael Akesson http://www.3000gt.nu
>
> From: SkoobY <pir8ska@shadow.net>
> Yes but the 300zx's are V6, and they have single turbo upgrades... why is it
> different in our case?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 11:22:51 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 14:19:24 -0400
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Rick Diogo <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: Parts for sale- turbos and intercoolers
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Hello,

I am new to this list and this is my first post.  I have just been reading
what others have said.  There seems to be a few very knowledgeable guys on
this list.  Thanks for all the great info!

I am selling a pair of brand new turbos for a 94 R/T TT.  They are brand
new in the box from Mitsu (not remans) and have never been installed in a
vehicle.   Best reasonable offer over $1,000 gets them.  I am looking to
get just enough to purchase the ARC2 from GT-Pro.  So if someone wants to
trade for that instead I would even be willing to do that too.

Like I said, the turbos are brand new in the box.  They list for
$2,861.00  for the pair.  I was told that they will fit 91-96 R/T TT's and
Vr-4's.

I also have my original stock intercoolers and all the original piping and
hoses from my 94 TT.  If anyone is interested in these parts please let me
know ASAP.  I will let the intercoolers and all piping go for $700.  I
think when I called the dealer these parts (collectively) listed for more
than some complete used cars cost.

Take Care,

Rick Diogo
94 Stealth TT
6 speed, climate control A/C
Pearl Yellow w/factory Dodge Chrome wheels

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 14:06:53 1999
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To: Yogourt@aol.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Transfer Case
In-reply-to: Your message of "Wed, 20 Oct 1999 11:34:03 EDT."
             <0.cb98b160.253f3aeb@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 15:06:48 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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+> Hi all,
+> I need to get another transfer case and I'm trying to determine which one I
+> need. I don't want to take it off until another one arrives as I can't affor
d
+> the downtime. I have a '92 Stealth RT/TT. The transfer case has a part numbe
r
+> MR165234 and a stamping number of MBG01338 with build date of 9/91. Kormex
+> can't determine whether this is large or small spine. The local dealerships
+> didn't know there was a difference. Can anyone tell from the above info whic
h
+> I need  or deirect me to someone that would know?
+> TIA
+> Paul

My understanding is that the large spline shafts were installed in
cases built starting sometime in 1993..  And of course a pre '93 case
that was rebuilt/remanufactured in '93 or later had the possibility
of have the large spline "upgrade".  Meaning the build date on the
case wouldn't necessarily tell you one way or the other what was
inside, unless you knew that it was a non-rebuilt pre-93 case.

if anyone thinks this information is inaccurate, please correct me..

On the other hand, it's very simple to take the case out should you
want to pull it, verify the spline count, and put it back in until
the new one arrives.  I'm assuming your current case is still
functional as otherwise this wouldn't be an issue. 

My mechanic only charged me 2 hours to R&R mine a couple weeks ago.
I would definately do it myself now that I know how easy it is. 
(I originally thought I was going to have him rebuild it before I
found out parts of the case itself were destroyed.)

Hope this helps..

Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 15:35:23 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 17:28:07 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Adventures in Braking IV
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Time to discuss brakes again. 

I just got off the phone with Porterfield. I told them about my experience
at Road America, where I wore down a set of pads in three 25 minute
sessions and grooved the rotors badly before the pads had gotten down to
metal. He said:


1. Did I see any whiteness on the edges of the pads? Yes. That means I was
running temperatures of 1300 degrees or more, and the pads simply don't
last long at those temperatures.

2. Adding air and water cooling only helps marginally at those
temperatures.  I can increase the flow of both -- like with air blowers --
and it will help, but only a little. Our cars are just too heavy and the
brake pad area is too small.

3. The real problem is our calipers: They just are not big enough. They
don't allow enough pad thickness (we can only get about a 1/2 in. of pad
backing + material in there, which is pretty slim).

4. I can go to Hawk pads, but they tend to wear the rotors down. He also
has a Performance Friction pad that will wear a little longer, but only
about 10% -- not enough to get through a whole weekend.

5. Yes, carbon kevlar pads (Porterfield R4 pads) will groove a rotor,
especially at high temperatures.

6. Road America and Blackhawk Farms (my last two events) are on his top ten
list of "toughest tracks on brakes."

His recommendation:  Get bigger calipers and/or practice brake management.

Hmmm. Brad Bedell's Big Red conversion kit is looking better all the time.
Did I hear that Supra calipers will work on our car?

Any comments out there? Anybody got a good solution?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 17:54:29 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 17:54:21 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
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Hi Rich,

> Hmmm. Brad Bedell's Big Red conversion kit is looking better all the time.
> Did I hear that Supra calipers will work on our car?
>
> Any comments out there? Anybody got a good solution?

John Christian has been road racing his '93 VR4 for some time now.  Hopefully
you will hear from him directly, but in the mean-time check out his web pages at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/4538/.  It looks like he has tried
numerous combinations of rotors and pads at the track.  His current
recommendations are Brad's Porsche/Brembo kit, 322 mm directional veined Supra
rotors (he has larger aftermarket wheels), and Paul Weston's $180 pads.  The
Supra rotors require some minor machining to fit our cars though.  Perhaps Brad
will begin offering machined Supra rotors with his kit.

Also, John is the one who BBQ's his pads on high for 1/2 hour, then turns off
the gas and lets the pads cool inside the BBQ until they reach room
temperature.  He also heat cycles new rotors in the oven on 'self clean' cycle,
again letting them cool to room temperature slowly inside the oven.  He reports
longer life due to these treatments.

A while back, Roger found the ultimate brake kit by Mov'it in Germany at
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html.  Unfortunately they cost almost
twice as much as Brad's kit, about $2800!  This kit is definitely worth $600
more than the Stillen/Brembo kit though.

Good luck with your dilemma,
Ken

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 18:31:31 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Another "Last" APEXi Boost Controller Question
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 20:26:07 -0500
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Ken-
Once I got my BC installed, I set it to 1.0 bar and 68% BADC.
I ran it to redline in 2nd gear (to let it learn).  Later I did this
twice, and got lots of popping and sputtering both times.  I
then assumed that I needed to reduce the plug gaps to .034
or so to avoid this problem.  A few days later I took the car
to the local dealer to get the tranny linkage adjusted, and the
tech said he noticed I had a boost controller, and he said it
boosted to 1.2 bar in second gear at 3000 (I bet it was 6000rpm).
Anyway, on the way home, I wound it up to 4500/6500rpm,
in 2nd and no longer got popping and missing; and the
boost over-shot to 1.18 bar.  I have boost programmed to
1.0 bar and 68% BADC.  What do I need to change to keep
the car from going above 1.0 bar?  Do I need to reduce the
BADC from 68% to a lower, say 45% or so?  I have info
from this list that supports both BADC numbers.
Thanks in advance for any help in this matter.
Regards,
ptg  


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 19:19:31 1999
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Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:17:58 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Road America (Supra)
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Mikael Åkesson wrote:

> You won't gain anything from a singleturbo setup. The Supra people upgrades
> to a Single turbo because it costs less with one turbo than two turbos. The
> twin turbo upgrades costs both an arm and a leg (Ask Jack, he installed some
> HKS twins on a friends Supra a few weeks ago). The Supras sequential turbos
> works as a single turbo anyway ,what I mean is that only one turbo at  a
> time produce boost.

The Supra turbos both work together after a certain rpm (3400 rpms
I think).  The first turbo works by itself at first, and then at 3400 rpms
the second turbo comes "online" and it shares boost with the first turbo.
Both turbos are exactly the same size, but the rear turbo has a slightly
larger compressor wheel.

Most Supra owners who go a big single complain about streetability.
There is little boost (or ram air effect) through the low rpms, so low
speed driving suffers.  Another thing they mention is that power can
sometimes come on too quickly with a big single once it begins to
produce boost.  This power "jump" is usually sufficient to break their
tires loose all of a sudden.  This isn't something you would want to
happen while coming out of a sharp corner.  The thing they say they
like about a big single is that the power is "very linear" compared to
twins and the boost feels like it could keep building way past redline.

--Errin Humphrey

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 20:22:31 1999
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References: <009201bf1b63$408f2b20$8c6186d0@sjiredff>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Another "Last" APEXi Boost Controller Question
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 22:18:51 -0500
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Paul,

I see you have had this dilemma for a few days and I will try to help with
some comments from my experience.

I don't know if you have the old or new Apex~i.  Also I do not know what
your mods are, but here are my experiences.

1.0 kg/cm2 and 68% BADC is pushing it with the old Apex~i.  It may not work
for all 3/S cars.  On the other hand some people get by with 70% BADC.  It
just depends.

When I ran this with stock exhaust and K&N I got a 10% boost spike with
these settings.  Once I gutted my precats and installed a testpipe.  This
caused the boost spikes to be even higher and I had to reduce the BADC to
62% to keep boost spikes below 1.10.

You need to play with the settings to get the desired results.  First lower
the BADC significantly, say 56%, and then increase it until you reach
desired results.  You MAY also have better luck reducing the boost to .95.
After all you don't want to hurt your engine.

Also it sounds like you have a peak boost metering device.  It is hard to
see 1.18 on a manual boost gauge.  Boost spikes are not visible on a boost
gauge.  For people looking for a peak boost meter I highly recommend the
Blitz dual turbo timer.

Additionally I think the "learning" should include a WOT in third gear as
well.
Good luck!

Oskar
'95 R/T TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 21:12:47 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <000201bf1a1a$1e88b1d0$408a83d8@RGERL012599_000.peoplesoft.com>
Subject: Team3S: Resetting the ECU
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 23:09:17 -0500
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How long does it really take?  I have heard anything from a few minutes to
30 minutes.  Are there any alternate methods to disconnecting the negative
battery cable?

Thanks,
Oskar
'95 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 22:19:48 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Desperately seeking synchros...
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  Well I'll be going with a new clutch soon so I figure it's about time I stop kidding
myself about my synchros.  The colder it gets, the worse my 2nd gear upshift feels.
Even shifting slow, it grinds like crazy when the car is cold, and I can forget up or
downshifting fast (not speed shifting).  The tranny fluid was replaced with redline a
couple months ago if anyone is curious.
  This leaves me looking for synchros.  I absolutely hate to put factory synchros back
in the car, but I'm left with little choice at this point.  If anyone would have any
synchros to spare, or have a lead for me, I would GREATLY appreciate it.

thanks in advance,
Jason
94 VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 22:21:35 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Why don't we get em MADE! RE: Possible source for synchros?
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 1999 21:44:54 -0500
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Hello 3/S land!

Well well well... I was perusing through the net, and did some research into
QUAIFE. Well they are known to the DSM world for making expensive but GREAT
center and front differentials. I don't believe they make ANYTHING for the
AWD 3/S and GTO cars.

As most of us know first hand, or have heard from many other owners, the
synchro design in the GETRAG tranny's is either flawed or weak or both (most
likely the latter). Cars with less than 30,000 miles (50,000km) have been
known to have shifting problems. This problem only gets worse after the
first occurance.

Fluid changes (to BG Synchroshift or GM Synchromesh) only help in a few
cases, and usually don't remedy the situation for very long (this is my case
as well).

As most of you all know, our GETRAG (AWD only) tranny's are "not
rebuildable". This is a bunch of baloney in my opinion. There are people out
there that have the know-how on how to "rebuild" them,

1) but does it really matter when they can only find the stock (bad
design/material) parts,
2) or even worse, use "good" parts (read - USED)

I am pretty sure that it would be near impossible to find NEW GEARS, but I
am also thinking that the gears have no real fallacies on their own. Most,
if not ALL the problems lay in the damn SYNCHRO's.

Well guess what? I called Quaife and talked to them about our otherwise
excellent cars. I told them about the group we have here, and how frustrated
some people are with the "getrash" tranny.

The stock synchro's (I believe) are made out of brass (they are "goldish" in
color). The person I was talking to said this is quite common, as it is easy
to mass produce parts out of this soft metal, and it works quite well w/o
wearing down the gear it meshes with. I don't want to get into the detail of
how it all works (nor do I pretend to understand it all :), but what he told
me, made a hell of a lot of sense.

Quiafe has the ability to produce synchro's for our beloved cars out of
(most likely, they still have to see them first) "British Steel". He
couldn't explain to me what this was, but upon some investigation, it seems
like it's steel with a higher calcium content, which abrades a bit easier
than steel (not as easy as BRASS), and in the process "lubricates" itself!

He said many lemans cars use quaife parts, and run long rally races w/o
problems with the transmissions. Quaife also has experience with other 4wd
systems (that use transfer cases).

So, with the installed updated synchro's, our tranny's will be as good (or
better? :) as any others out there, with MUCH fewer problems. Maybe then we
can find the next weak link(s)?.

Wait... what's the catch?

These don't exist yet. What we as a group have to do is this.

1)Quaife needs samples to work from.
  b. Used synchro's are OK, but NEW(ish) are even better
  c. They need sets for each different iteration of the GETRAG AWD TRANNY.
2)They DON'T want to make (affordably) a set that only works on ONE year's
car
  b. They need to know how many years can a set be applied to.
  c. They would like some hard data on the different years/versions.
3)They can make however, as many we want.
  b. The cost will be determined by the amount of orders
  c. I told them 30-100 sets of a mix of years. They said between $500 and
$1000 (EACH SET of 5-6 rings)

If we can get more than that (I'm SURE that there are more than that many
AWD owners out there) then the price will be closer to $500. For their other
applications, synchros are between $90 and $200 EACH.

I know that Jack T. could aquire (somehow! :) some of them, and maybe he
knows more about the different year's and differences.

I know that $500-1000 sounds like a lot, but think of how sweet and complete
your car (and mine :) would be with a properly working transmission?! One
that didn't embarass you at every stop light, or one that let you drop it
into the gear you REALLY wanted around that curve. Just remember, $500-1000
doesn't even cover replacement turbo's, so in reality, it isn't THAT bad.

One request, (by the person I talked to) please do not flood them with
questions. Until they have our synchro's in hand (and even better, a WHOLE
tranny), nothing I said can be verified.

Even if your transmission doesn't have a problem (yet), it would be a good
idea to update the synchro's (when and if they become available) as soon as
it does start to grind.

If you want to know more about anything I talked about, here are a couple of
pertinant links. Thanks for listening, let's make this happen guys/gals!

For more info on HOW a synchromesh transmission works can be found here,
http://www.csn.ul.ie/~lavelles/synchro.html

More info on Quaife as a company is here,
http://www.quaife.co.uk/info/index.htm

This was posted to the larger Starnet list, maybe it will get a better
response on the tech list. I posted it here because of this post below,

From: Klusmanp@aol.com <Klusmanp@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, October 18, 1999 5:29 PM
Subject: Team3S: Possible source for synchros?


The Quaife engineering team makes excellent components....for select cars.
I dont beleve they'll make any parts for our cars unless there is enough
demand in the marketplace to warrant
production.

Maybe we can bug 'em for some?
Noble


>Saw an ad for this importer of drive train components. Quaife engineering
>offers complete gear sets for various cars - didn't see 3000GT/Stealth
>listed, but I did see diff. sets for Eclipse/Talon/Laser cars.
>
>check it out:
>
>http://www.autotech.com/qpsnew.htm
>
>This outfit might be able to supply synchros after the current supply dries
>up? (Jack Tertadian is the only other source I know of - he uses some
amazing
>sort of diplomacy to sneak synchros directly from Getrag for us)
>
>Paul Klusman


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 20 22:33:11 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Why don't we get em MADE! RE: Possible source for synchros?
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Would this be only for the AWD turbo versions, or the non-turbo's as well?
I have a non-turbo and it really pisses me off when I'm performance driving
and I've got my shifting timing patern down, and *GGRRRUUUUCCNCNGNH* as it
didn't fully or properly engage while upshifting.


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 00:34:05 1999
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To: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>, "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Resetting the ECU
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>How long does it really take?  I have heard anything from a few minutes to
>30 minutes.  Are there any alternate methods to disconnecting the negative
>battery cable?

In reality the internal capacitor in the ECU loses the power after 30
seconds and the memory get's cleared. Over the period, they installed a
newer version of microcontroller that has an additional capacitor on the
chip and therefore hold the memory soemwhat longer. My experience is that 5
minutes is enough for sure.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 00:34:08 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Possible source for synchros?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 09:31:57 +0200
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If you can provide me with the exact MD numbers I can shop around. They told
me that they can get everything (!!) for the tranny but I have to provide
the real numbers, or at least the drawing to identify the parts. But, be
prepared to pay $$$

Let me know,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 04:07:49 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Jason Barnhart'" <phnxgld@erols.com>
Cc: Team 3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Desperately seeking synchros...
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 03:13:12 -0700
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Jason...

You may have just joined our list, or have missed the series of postings on
the subject, but Jack T has been in the process of coordinating a purchase
of parts from Getrag between the middle of July of this year and the end of
September. To the best of my knowledge, he is done with this purchase and
has collected money (there were twenty-two of us who got in on this
purchase) from all of us. Jack's e-address is: "xwing@execpc.com" in case
you want to talk to him about availability at this late date.

Looking forward...Chris

FWIW...here's the information Jack required back in July...

<snip from Jack T>
If anybody wants to order synchro sets + gears (it is actually better
to replace the gear which grinds going into it also, new info)
EMAIL REPLY TO ME PERSONALLY with info:

1)  Your REAL FULL NAME, address, phone #, and email address
2)  year/make car,/speeds in your TWIN TURBO's trans (5 or 6)
3)  which you want:
a)  1-2 synchro assembly  (fixes 1-->2 upshift grind)
b)  3-4 synchro assembly
c)  5-Reverse  synchro assembly (if 5 speed; almost nobody ever has
problems here!)
d)  5-6 synchro assembly (if 6 speed; almost nobody ever has problem
here!)
e)  2nd gear (would help fix upshift to 2nd grind, WITH 1-2 assy above)
e)  3rd gear (would help fix upshift to 3rd grind, WITH 3-4 assy above)
f)  4th gear (would help fix upshift to 4th grind, WITH 3-4 assy above)
g)  MAYBE can get output shaft from trans, would NEED to tell
me large or small shaft, do NOT ASK ME WHICH YOU
HAVE--see above re: understanding what you are buying!
<end of snip from Jack T>

-----Original Message-----
From: Jason Barnhart [mailto:phnxgld@erols.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 20, 1999 10:15 PM
Cc: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: Desperately seeking synchros...


  Well I'll be going with a new clutch soon so I figure it's about time I
stop kidding
myself about my synchros.  The colder it gets, the worse my 2nd gear upshift
feels.
Even shifting slow, it grinds like crazy when the car is cold, and I can
forget up or
downshifting fast (not speed shifting).  The tranny fluid was replaced with
redline a
couple months ago if anyone is curious.
  This leaves me looking for synchros.  I absolutely hate to put factory
synchros back
in the car, but I'm left with little choice at this point.  If anyone would
have any
synchros to spare, or have a lead for me, I would GREATLY appreciate it.

thanks in advance,
Jason
94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 07:52:14 1999
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Today I put my Stealth up on the lift to install new Abex brake pads in
the front, unseize the active exhaust valve, change the engine
oil/filter, fix a flat tire (which coincidentally happened on the way to
the shop!), etc.

While I was under there, I decided to check the transaxle and xfer case
fluid levels.  The first thing I noticed was a small amount of green
liquid on the bottom of the transaxle.  There wasn't much, but enough to
see that it seemed to come from higher up towards the back of the
transaxle case.  Please tell me there is some kind of breather or
overflow hole up there and that this is normal!  Otherwise, is there
anything I can do?  I checked the bolts holding the two halves of the
case together and they're all tight.

I checked the level through the fill hole by sticking my finger in
almost as far as it would go so that I reached the top of the resevoir.
Luckily, I got my finger back out (almost didn't - kind of like a
Chinese finger puzzle!) and found clean, green fluid just shy of full.
So if it's leaking, then it hasn't lost much - yet.

Then I moved on to the xfer case.  My manual shows a drain bolt
(bottom), fill bolt (front) and inspection bolt (side), but I could not
find the inspection bolt.  Was it eliminated with the 2nd gen xfer
cases?  I have the '94 shop manual but perhaps it wasn't updated.
Anyway, I checked the level via the fill hole and it was perhaps
1/4-1/2" below the bottom of the hole.  The fluid was also pretty
dirty... I seem to remember Extreme Motorsports replacing it with
Shockproof Light (yes, I know it's GL-5 - I wanted MTL, but they
insisted) 30k miles ago.  Isn't that the pink stuff?  Maybe I'm thinking
of the Shockproof Heavy they put in the diff.  At any rate, there was no
sign of pink in my xfer case.

So... what should I do, if anything?  Do I need to take it in to have
the dealer replace a transaxle seal?  Should I replace the fluids
again?  TIA...

-Jim

P.S.- A story about the flat tire... First, I noticed that the boost
gauge was higher than normal when cruising and that maintaining speed
required more gas.  I also noticed that the usual xfer case whine I hear
when decelerating continued even when I pushed in the clutch!  Expecting
the worst (like the square xfer case bearings someone posted about last
week), I slowed and pulled over to the right-most lane of the Autobahn
(hey, it doesn't happen often, gimme a break!) just as the car began
handling very poorly.  Now thinking that the infamous four-wheel lockup
of the xfer case was going to send me careening into the trees at any
moment, it was an adrenaline-filled moment when I finally pulled into
the next service station, a big, new Esso (Exxon).  Of course it was
here that I was relieved to find that it was just the tire, but the
experience continued!  I found that a screw had become lodged in the
center of the tread and decided to just pump up the tire and drive the
short distance remaining to the shop to plug it there.  So I pull up to
the luftstation where I was pleased to find that they had a regular air
hose like those in the states (those of you who have been subjected to
the German portable air canisters can relate, I'm sure).  So I take the
nozzle end of the hose and put it up to the tire stem only to realize
that there was no air!  Walk back to the air pump and there are two
buttons, one to send air through the hose, the other to bleed air back
out.  Problem is, the pump is fifteen feet from the damn tire!  What is
that?  I stood there for five minutes in disbelief before spending an
equally frustrating amount of time recruiting a non-English speaking
German to help.  What a way to start the day...

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 08:09:02 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject: Team3S: - 1992 Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:04:11 -0700
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Still looks like a hell of a buy --- likely to go up in the last few hours though.

   Jim berry

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=181820401

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 08:30:39 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 08:29:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Andrew C. Ohnstad" <andy@andysaudio.com>
To: Rick Diogo <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Parts for sale- turbos and intercoolers
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Bah,  This post has me thinking bad bad thoughts.  I 'ver got an SL.
Assuming one could buy all the parts of the turbo system from Mitsu or
hauled off of VR4's how much of a pain in the arse would it be to turbo
charge the car?

Or am I really better off just selling it for a VR4 of the same vintage?

=-=Andrew
"Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
'94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power

On Wed, 20 Oct 1999, Rick Diogo wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I am new to this list and this is my first post.  I have just been reading
> what others have said.  There seems to be a few very knowledgeable guys on
> this list.  Thanks for all the great info!
>
> I am selling a pair of brand new turbos for a 94 R/T TT.  They are brand
> new in the box from Mitsu (not remans) and have never been installed in a
> vehicle.   Best reasonable offer over $1,000 gets them.  I am looking to
> get just enough to purchase the ARC2 from GT-Pro.  So if someone wants to
> trade for that instead I would even be willing to do that too.
>
> Like I said, the turbos are brand new in the box.  They list for
> $2,861.00  for the pair.  I was told that they will fit 91-96 R/T TT's and
> Vr-4's.
>
> I also have my original stock intercoolers and all the original piping and
> hoses from my 94 TT.  If anyone is interested in these parts please let me
> know ASAP.  I will let the intercoolers and all piping go for $700.  I
> think when I called the dealer these parts (collectively) listed for more
> than some complete used cars cost.
>
> Take Care,
>
> Rick Diogo
> 94 Stealth TT
> 6 speed, climate control A/C
> Pearl Yellow w/factory Dodge Chrome wheels
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 08:38:58 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Parts for sale- turbos and intercoolers
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 10:38:41 -0500
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> Bah,  This post has me thinking bad bad thoughts.  I 'ver got an SL.
> Assuming one could buy all the parts of the turbo system from Mitsu or
> hauled off of VR4's how much of a pain in the arse would it
> be to turbo charge the car?

Need: exhaust manifolds, pre-cats, downpipe, turbos, intake piping, turbo ECU, intercoolers and piping, BOV, boost control parts, oil and water feeds for turbos, oilpan with turbo oil drainback connections, turbo fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump.......  Injectors?

> Or am I really better off just selling it for a VR4 of the
> same vintage?

Better off selling...  Unless you went with lower compression pistons, you couldn't run nearly the boost that the turbo cars are running.  You could maybe get away with 8 psi (around 300hp), but now you've got a high-powered FWD car which will probably have pretty bad torque steer when the turbos spool up, or massive wheelspin as the front differential on these cars is open (non-limited-slip).

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 08:47:59 1999
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get a new VR-4, the engine requires modifications to work with the turbo's.
Plus you won't get the AWD without major changes as well.  Figure dumping
about $8000 - $10000 (or more) to convert the non-turbo to a turbo.  I've
been researching it and asking around for a while and it's just not worth
it.  Granted, you can get the non-turbo's up to about 300 - 320 hp without
nitrous mind ya, but of course it's still not as good as the TT ;).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 09:17:00 1999
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From: "Andrew C. Ohnstad" <andy@andysaudio.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
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Settle an argument please, oh gurus....

Does the VR4 have all wheel steering, or just all wheel drive?

=-=Andrew
"Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
'94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 09:38:25 1999
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All VR4 / TT do have AWS. This is totally enclosed in the chassis construction
and part of the whole system.

> Does the VR4 have all wheel steering, or just all wheel drive?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 09:40:31 1999
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Andrew,
  I've got a 92 VR4, and it is AWD and AWS.  (I looked underneath to be sure ! :)  The
extra power steering stuff is quite obvious when you look.
  The '92 service manual says the following about testing the AWS:  Raise the car on a
lift so that all four wheels clear the floor.  Have someone put the car in gear and
"accelerate" to 50 MPH.   Now turn the steering wheel sharply, and the steering action
of the rear wheels can be observed.
  Three points about the AWS.
    1) it seems to only kick in above 50 MPH
    2) it is "same phase", i.e. the rear wheels turn the same way as the front.
    3) the rear wheel steering is subtle
JAT

"Andrew C. Ohnstad" wrote:

> Settle an argument please, oh gurus....
>
> Does the VR4 have all wheel steering, or just all wheel drive?
>
> =-=Andrew
> "Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
> '94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 10:05:52 1999
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Actually the 2nd turbo doesn't come on until about 4300-4500 rpms, but
when it comes online, HOLD ON FOR DEAR LIFE!!! :-)  but yes they BOTH
work together to produce that killer top end...
Most Supra owners agree that a properly sized BIG SINGLE will do just as
well if not better than a twin setup (let alone the diff in $$$$).  In
fact there is a debate right now about the best BIG SINGLE to get.  The 2
that stand out are the RPS T-66 and HKS Ts04.  The T-66 is a consistent
10 sec runner (as seen in Christian Raldo's car, he's on the MK4 list).
Christian produces 650 rwhp and over 600 ft-lbs of torgue on turbo alone.
99% of the fast Supras run singles...

A big single in a VR4 would be interesting indeed (hope it doesn't scrape
too much :-)....
...never heard of a single in a 300ZX...


On Wed, 20 Oct 1999 19:17:58 -0700 Errin Humphrey
<errin@u.washington.edu> writes:
> Mikael Åkesson wrote:>
> > You won't gain anything from a singleturbo setup. The Supra people
> upgrades> > to a Single turbo because it costs less with one turbo than
two
> turbos. The> > twin turbo upgrades costs both an arm and a leg (Ask
Jack, he
> installed some> > HKS twins on a friends Supra a few weeks ago). The
Supras
> sequential turbos> > works as a single turbo anyway ,what I mean is
that only one turbo > at  a> > time produce boost.
>
> The Supra turbos both work together after a certain rpm (3400 rpms
> I think).  The first turbo works by itself at first, and then at
> 3400 rpms> the second turbo comes "online" and it shares boost with the
first
> turbo.
> Both turbos are exactly the same size, but the rear turbo has a
> slightly
> larger compressor wheel.
>
> Most Supra owners who go a big single complain about streetability.
> There is little boost (or ram air effect) through the low rpms, so
> low
> speed driving suffers.  Another thing they mention is that power can
> sometimes come on too quickly with a big single once it begins to
> produce boost.  This power "jump" is usually sufficient to break
> their
> tires loose all of a sudden.  This isn't something you would want to
> happen while coming out of a sharp corner.  The thing they say they
> like about a big single is that the power is "very linear" compared
> to
> twins and the boost feels like it could keep building way past
> redline.
>
> --Errin Humphrey
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 10:15:25 1999
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To: "Andrew C. Ohnstad" <andy@andysaudio.com>,
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 12:07:18 -0500
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Both.

Bill Davis 95 VR-4

----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew C. Ohnstad <andy@andysaudio.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 8:16 AM
Subject: Team3S: VR4-AWS?


> Settle an argument please, oh gurus....
>
> Does the VR4 have all wheel steering, or just all wheel drive?
>
> =-=Andrew
> "Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
> '94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 10:40:14 1999
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From: "Scotty" <omnitech@Fast.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 13:40:16 -0400
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Both Stealth RT TT and 3000 GT TT have AWS & AWD
AWD 55% at the rear wheels and 45% at the front wheels. that's with out
traction loss.
AWS activates above 30 MPH and will only move the real wheels 1.5 degrees

Scotty
92 RT TT

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Andrew C.
Ohnstad
Sent: Thursday, October 21, 1999 9:16 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: VR4-AWS?


Settle an argument please, oh gurus....

Does the VR4 have all wheel steering, or just all wheel drive?

=-=Andrew
"Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
'94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 13:03:58 1999
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: "'Oskar'" <swede@pclink.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Resetting the ECU
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:02:32 +1300
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> Are there any alternate methods to disconnecting
> the negative battery cable?

Some have suggested the easiest way is to pull the
dome light fuse (controls alarm, disk changer and
interior lights).

I have not tested this, but maybe others know ?

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 13:15:17 1999
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:14:20 +1300
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> Both Stealth RT TT and 3000 GT TT have AWS & AWD
> AWD 55% at the rear wheels and 45% at the front wheels.

I have also heard that the '91-93 models actually had
a 40/60 split and that it was not until the '94-99
that the cars came with a 45/55 split...

Does anyone know if the above is correct?

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 13:26:13 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 15:26:03 -0500
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> > Both Stealth RT TT and 3000 GT TT have AWS & AWD
> > AWD 55% at the rear wheels and 45% at the front wheels.
>
> I have also heard that the '91-93 models actually had
> a 40/60 split and that it was not until the '94-99
> that the cars came with a 45/55 split...
>
> Does anyone know if the above is correct?

These are the correct numbers.  It was changed in '94 when the 6-speed Getrag was introduced.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 14:38:42 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 23:36:55 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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> > I have also heard that the '91-93 models actually had
> > a 40/60 split and that it was not until the '94-99
> > that the cars came with a 45/55 split...
> >
> > Does anyone know if the above is correct?
>
> These are the correct numbers.  It was changed in '94 when the 6-speed Getrag was introduced.

Therefore we have another difference between the Euro and US cars. All Eu cars
do have the 45/55 split as stated on my euro shop manual.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 14:55:13 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 16:54:40 CDT
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Kevin is exactly right.  The ratio did change in 94.  So far everything is
this discussion has been correct, except for one thing.  The 95-96 Stealth
TT did NOT have AWS.  And if anyone doesn't believe me they can drive to
Minnesota and I'll line up  a 94,95, and 96 Stealth TT and show you the
difference.  ;)

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
>Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 09:14:20 +1300
>
> > Both Stealth RT TT and 3000 GT TT have AWS & AWD
> > AWD 55% at the rear wheels and 45% at the front wheels.
>
>I have also heard that the '91-93 models actually had
>a 40/60 split and that it was not until the '94-99
>that the cars came with a 45/55 split...
>
>Does anyone know if the above is correct?
>
>Cheers,
>Kevin Clark
>'91 GTO-VR4
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 14:59:15 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 23:56:23 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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I'm very sorry about the off-topic but I just found an add in the newspaper :

Red 95'Stealth TT, 44k miles, US imported to Switz., mint condition
$20'000

I never shoped around so I'm not familiar with the market price. Is this too
much compared to the US or just what the market says ?

Please reply privately ;-)

Thanks in advance,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
maybe ....

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 15:01:12 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: transaxle and xfer case check
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 17:00:48 CDT
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Hey Jim,

The picture in the newer manuals are incorrect for the transfer case.  The
picture they show is the 91-93 transfer case.  They have three plugs.  The
94+ iron transfer cases only have two plugs, drain and fill/check.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
>To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S: transaxle and xfer case check
>Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 16:59:00 +0100
>

>Then I moved on to the xfer case.  My manual shows a drain bolt
>(bottom), fill bolt (front) and inspection bolt (side), but I could not
>find the inspection bolt.  Was it eliminated with the 2nd gen xfer
>cases?  I have the '94 shop manual but perhaps it wasn't updated.

______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 15:01:46 1999
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Curt, can you please take a pic of the rear double wishbones and parts of such a
car ? And are you sure that they don't have AWS ? I ask because I was told they
dropped the active suspension and I want to make sure you didn't mixed the stuff
;-)

Let us know !

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 16:43:23 1999
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> > > I have also heard that the '91-93 models actually had
> > > a 40/60 split and that it was not until the '94-99
> > > that the cars came with a 45/55 split...
> > >
> > > Does anyone know if the above is correct?
> >
> > These are the correct numbers.  It was changed in '94 when the 6-speed Getrag was introduced.

Hmm, wouldn't a 40/60 split be more desirable for autocrossing?  Would it be possible to convert to
the 40/60 split on a 2nd gen?

Jason

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 16:46:41 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 18:46:34 -0500
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> Hmm, wouldn't a 40/60 split be more desirable for
> autocrossing?  Would it be possible to convert to
> the 40/60 split on a 2nd gen?

Sure, downgrade to the 5-speed tranny...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 20:37:59 1999
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Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 20:36:26 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Adventures in Braking IV
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Rich Merritt wrote:

> >What about the big brake kit from Brembo ???
> >They have a kit for 2,000 bucks that has massive rotors,
> >( not sure of measurements ) they are big!!
> >And huge 6 piston calipers !!
> >They put them on the Ferrari's and lamborghini's,
> >maybe they will work for you !!!
> >
> I think that kit is more like $3,000.
> But if anyone has a solid price and a dealer to talk to, please post it.

Indra at ApexR sells the kit for ~$2000.  I'm not sure exactly which
kit it is (probably 13 inch like the stockers), but usually Brembo
offers quite a few different sizes.  I would be kinda surprised if the
$2k kit used 6 piston calipers rather than 4.

As somebody said on the Team3S list, you're probably better off
spending another $600-$1000 more and getting the Bremsa kit or
better yet, the Mov'it Porsche GT2 kit.  These would be practically
the same brakes put on GT2 cars.  The Puma N1 GTO (all-out
race car in Japan) uses AP 6-pot calipers in front.  I haven't found
out which rotors it uses, but they don't look larger than stock and
they aren't cross-drilled or slotted.

--Errin "new tips" Humphrey
Seattle, wA
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 20:39:32 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Smoke, related to cat removal?
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  I found out my car does a neat trick now, smoke screens.  If I engine brake I
evidently buildup some material (for lack of knowing just what it is), then when I hit
the gas again, usually to rev-match my 2-1 shift, I leave a nice cloud of greyish white
smoke.  It's not blue and I don't appear to be burning oil, it's not black so I don't
think it's fuel, but I also don't appear to be losing coolant.  The only thing I can
figure is that since I've gutted my precats and am now running an ATR downpipe with no
main cat (I had previously had my main cat gutted) is that the material that is normally
removed by catalytic converters is of course not being removed and results in smoke.  My
car also smokes if it idles for several minutes after being warmed up.  I've been
curious about this condition for some time, and now that I can recreate it at will,
perhaps I can give the details necessary for finding out exactly what's going on.

Any ideas?
Jason

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 22:29:49 1999
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> > Hmm, wouldn't a 40/60 split be more desirable for
> > autocrossing?  Would it be possible to convert to
> > the 40/60 split on a 2nd gen?
>
> Sure, downgrade to the 5-speed tranny...
================================================

As the owner of a 93 TT I would consider the change to a five speed
as being an upgrade :-) For a car with this much torque I feel the six
speed is unnecessary. The six is supposed to be a little stronger
but from the complaints of the owners I'm not to sure

   Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 22:35:36 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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References: <003301bf1b96$c4066120$7e8783d8@RGERL012599_000.peoplesoft.com> <380FDB5E.C62C9A29@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Smoke, related to cat removal?
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 22:30:46 -0700
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.  The only thing I can
> figure is that since I've gutted my precats and am now running an ATR downpipe with no
> main cat (I had previously had my main cat gutted) is that the material that is normally
> removed by catalytic converters is of course not being removed and results in smoke.  My
> car also smokes if it idles for several minutes after being warmed up. 
======================================================

Not likely to be related to the main cat --- the cats are to treat unburned
hydrocarbons which are not normally visible. The most likely cause is
valve stem seals or maybe oil rings. Very small amounts of oil are involved
so you are not likely to notice over short periods.

   Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 22:37:17 1999
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To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fw: Re:Adventures in braking IV
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> The following link to Baer brakes shows the Alcon 6 piston caliper
> and 13.5 " two piece rotor kits selling for $6100 for the Viper and about
> $6500 for Camaro.
>
>    Jim Berry
> ==================================================
>
>  http://www.baer.com/
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 21 22:46:23 1999
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Ok, but why white or grayish smoke with no hint of blue or smell of oil?  Even if it was small
amounts of oil, unless there was something else in the smoke, the smoke would be bluish, no?

Jim Berry wrote:

> .  The only thing I can
> > figure is that since I've gutted my precats and am now running an ATR downpipe with no
> > main cat (I had previously had my main cat gutted) is that the material that is normally
> > removed by catalytic converters is of course not being removed and results in smoke.  My
> > car also smokes if it idles for several minutes after being warmed up.
> ======================================================
>
> Not likely to be related to the main cat --- the cats are to treat unburned
> hydrocarbons which are not normally visible. The most likely cause is
> valve stem seals or maybe oil rings. Very small amounts of oil are involved
> so you are not likely to notice over short periods.
>
>    Jim Berry
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 01:04:42 1999
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> as being an upgrade :-) For a car with this much torque I feel the six
> speed is unnecessary. The six is supposed to be a little stronger
> but from the complaints of the owners I'm not to sure

Oh, I highly disagree with the six speed is unnecessary ! I drove both and
must say the six speeder has a much better power band in 2nd and 3rd than
mine. It just feels lighter and better selectable on the road, especially up
the hills and through the serpentines. Of course, just my opinion :-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 05:47:45 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Using Brake Cleaner to clean off Apex'i Bov
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This may be a dumb question; is it safe to use a Brake Cleaner to clean out
the internals and external of my Apex'i Sequential Blow off Valve?  I had
some major oil build up inside the BOV due to possible blown turbos or
internal motor problems. 
    I'm concerned that if I use a Brake Cleaner that it may cause some harm
to my BOV mehanism; which may cause the BOV to eventually stick slightly open
or slightly closed.  I just want to clean out the oil residue inside the BOV.
Any other recommendations?

Thanks,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy"
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 06:32:08 1999
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From: "Landis, Michael" <MLandis@casham.com>
To: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Smoke, related to cat removal?
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 08:37:52 -0500
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Yeah, that's what I thought.  But I was experiencing light oil consumption
(about 1 1/2 qt between 3K mile oil changes), and the car would belch a huge
puff of smoke after sitting at idle for a few minutes - like sitting at a
long light or in the fast-food drive-thru line.  Mine was also white, not
blue or grey like you'd expect, and I detected no typical "burning oil"
smell. The car has 115K miles on it and I just overhauled it (water pump
seized, timing belt shredded - long heavy sigh, lots of money, don't EVEN
get me started) and now the problem has gone away.  How many miles on your
car?  Any possibility of oil ring wear?

To check for possible valve stem seal wear, the next time you've got an oil
change coming up (two or three days advance), you might add a quart of ATF
to your oil.  The trans fluid causes the rubber seals to swell a little bit,
eliminating the oil blow-by and the smoke.  If your smoke problem goes away
(mine did) then it's a safe bet it's the valve stem seals.  You don't want
to run the ATF all the time or push the car much while it's in the
crankcase, but it ought to be OK for a couple of days before your oil
change.  Note that my car is a non-turbo.  Not sure what impact the ATF
might have for a short period on turbo bearings if your car is a TT.
Comments, guys?

Michael

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jason Barnhart [SMTP:phnxgld@erols.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 12:42 AM
> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Smoke, related to cat removal?
>
> Ok, but why white or grayish smoke with no hint of blue or smell of oil?
> Even if it was small
> amounts of oil, unless there was something else in the smoke, the smoke
> would be bluish, no?
>
> Jim Berry wrote:
>
> > .  The only thing I can
> > > figure is that since I've gutted my precats and am now running an ATR
> downpipe with no
> > > main cat (I had previously had my main cat gutted) is that the
> material that is normally
> > > removed by catalytic converters is of course not being removed and
> results in smoke.  My
> > > car also smokes if it idles for several minutes after being warmed up.
> > ======================================================
> >
> > Not likely to be related to the main cat --- the cats are to treat
> unburned
> > hydrocarbons which are not normally visible. The most likely cause is
> > valve stem seals or maybe oil rings. Very small amounts of oil are
> involved
> > so you are not likely to notice over short periods.
> >
> >    Jim Berry
> >
> > For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 07:03:28 1999
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To: Jason Barnhart <phnxgld@erols.com>
From: Rick Diogo <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Smoke, related to cat removal?
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
In-Reply-To: <380FDB5E.C62C9A29@erols.com>
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It sounds like a blown turbo to me....

Rick Diogo
94 R/T TT

============================================================

At 11:34 PM 10/21/99 -0400, Jason Barnhart wrote:
>   I found out my car does a neat trick now, smoke screens.  If I engine
> brake I
>evidently buildup some material (for lack of knowing just what it is),
>then when I hit
>the gas again, usually to rev-match my 2-1 shift, I leave a nice cloud of
>greyish white
>smoke.  It's not blue and I don't appear to be burning oil, it's not black
>so I don't
>think it's fuel, but I also don't appear to be losing coolant.  The only
>thing I can
>figure is that since I've gutted my precats and am now running an ATR
>downpipe with no
>main cat (I had previously had my main cat gutted) is that the material
>that is normally
>removed by catalytic converters is of course not being removed and results
>in smoke.  My
>car also smokes if it idles for several minutes after being warmed
>up.  I've been
>curious about this condition for some time, and now that I can recreate it
>at will,
>perhaps I can give the details necessary for finding out exactly what's
>going on.
>
>Any ideas?
>Jason
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 09:16:55 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 18:15:18 +0100
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
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robby@freesurf.ch wrote:
>
> > as being an upgrade :-) For a car with this much torque I feel the six
> > speed is unnecessary. The six is supposed to be a little stronger
> > but from the complaints of the owners I'm not to sure
>
> Oh, I highly disagree with the six speed is unnecessary ! I drove both and
> must say the six speeder has a much better power band in 2nd and 3rd than
> mine. It just feels lighter and better selectable on the road, especially up
> the hills and through the serpentines. Of course, just my opinion :-)

True, but remember that the roads and speed limits are a bit different
over here!  A double overdrive transmission is very useful in Europe
where it is possible (ie- legal) to cruise at well over 100 mph all day
long, but the more I drive over here, the more I wonder when I ever used
sixth gear back in the states!

Okay, back to tech topics... -Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 09:17:18 1999
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To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: new brake pads
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As I mentioned in a post last night, yesterday I installed new Abex
front brake pads.  Today on the way home I came up on my exit pretty
fast and could not slow down fast enough to take the turn!  I ended up
sailing on by with the pedal to the floor!  Pretty scarry, and I'm lucky
it wasn't an emergency situation.

Now I know that most pads require a break-in period, but does this sound
normal?  This was my first hard braking on these pads.  I did a few more
on the way home and there was a strong brake smell and some smoke.  When
I got home I checked the rotors and fluid resevoir - both looked good.

Note that the rotors were not turned prior to installing these pads.
These rotors went though a set of Stillen Metal Matrix pads followed by
a few thousand miles on Roger's stock Mitsu pads before the Abexes went
on.

Any suggestions?  Is this normal?  How can I expedite the break-in in
the interest of safety?  Thanx!!
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 09:44:33 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
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I have the non-turbo and would LOVE to have a six speed.  I live in Tulsa
and usually make a run down to Dallas about once every month or month and a
half.  Plus I make trips back home to Chicago (12 hour drive done in 9.5,
I'm looking to beat that on my next trip :).  Plus the highway speed limits
in Oklahoma are 75, and in missouri they're 70 (which means I do about 85+
depending upon how ticket conscious I'm being :), and that sixth gear would
be nice for the fuel economy to run the engine at lower RPMs while cruising
at those speeds.  Doing 80 - 90 is still around 3000-4000 RPMs which is
ample for another shift-point.

Which brings up a question.  Are there any shops or places that can make
custom transmissions?  I would love a higher performance transmission with a
sixth gear on my car but I dunno if any shops will make transmissions for
you on custom order or what the entire procedure involved would be.

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 09:50:30 1999
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From: Dan Jett <djett@corp.ultratech.com>
To: matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS? -Reply
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** High Priority **

> A double overdrive transmission is very useful in Europe
>where it is possible (ie- legal) to cruise at well over 100 >mph all
day
>long, but the more I drive over here, the more I wonder >when I ever
used
>sixth gear back in the states!

Actually, not to nitpick, but the 6-speed is a triple overdrive!
Fourth is actually an overdrive gear...

As far as if it is necessary, (I've had both 5 and 6 speeds), the
sixth gear, albeit too tall for any performance level driving, does
wonders for gas mileage. I consistantly show 3-5 mpg more than I did
on the 5 speed. May not seem like much, but per annum it makes a
dent!

The gear ratios are also different between the two, and the "seat of
the pants" acceleration is better...Could be the extra 20 ponies, but
my 92 was modified as well...

Just my $.02

Dan Jett
94 Stealth Turbo
K/N FIPK
Greddy exhaust
Centerforce DF Clutch
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 10:04:27 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: new brake pads
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Hi Jim,

> As I mentioned in a post last night, yesterday I installed new Abex
> front brake pads.  Today on the way home I came up on my exit pretty
> fast and could not slow down fast enough to take the turn!  I ended up
> sailing on by with the pedal to the floor!  Pretty scarry, and I'm lucky
> it wasn't an emergency situation.
>
> Now I know that most pads require a break-in period, but does this sound
> normal?  This was my first hard braking on these pads.  I did a few more
> on the way home and there was a strong brake smell and some smoke.  When
> I got home I checked the rotors and fluid resevoir - both looked good.
>
> Note that the rotors were not turned prior to installing these pads.
> These rotors went though a set of Stillen Metal Matrix pads followed by
> a few thousand miles on Roger's stock Mitsu pads before the Abexes went
> on.
>
> Any suggestions?  Is this normal?  How can I expedite the break-in in
> the interest of safety?  Thanx!!

Yes, you will not have full braking capability until two major steps are
performed with new brake pads:
1) bed them to match the surface of your rotors
2) outgas chemicals used in the construction of the pads

Typically, item 1 is done by driving around normally for a few days using light
braking.  You still need to do this even if you install new or machined rotors.
Item 2 is done by performing 6-12 high speed stops in succession -- raising the
temp of the pads causes the unwanted chemicals to boil out,  This is what causes
the strong brake smell.  While the pads are outgassing, your brakes will fade
due to the layer of gas that builds up between the rotor & pad while braking
hard.  Lately John Christian has been touting Shawn Dewy's BBQ treatment for
heat cycling and outgassing the pads as the life of the pads seems to be
increased greatly.

Something else to consider -- switching to a different compound pad without
machining the rotors might be a problem.  Supposedly molecules from the first
set of pads gets imbedded into the surface of the rotor.  If the new pad's
compound is not compatible with the old pad, you may have reduced friction for
awhile until the rotors wear a little and the surface gets imbedded with the new
pad's molecules.  Switching from one brand of carbon kevlar to another should
really not be a problem though.

Good luck,
Ken
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 10:32:31 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
cc: cesk@redrock.net
Subject: Team3S: Honking goose gone
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Did you have a K&N installed? I also suffer from honking goose syndrome
(and I have stock everything) and thought maybe the problem was something
else. Lately I have noticed that tehre is a burning smell coming from my
car. Any ideas?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 11:23:37 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question for Brake Gurus
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 11:23:31 -0700
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My apologies, but this isn't about 20" rotors, just the normal brakes on a
VR-4 :)  For a friend of mine:

car: 1994 VR-4
rotors: stock
calipers: stock
other stuff: stock
alignment: good
wheel balancing: good

Problem:
When braking (and only when braking) from speeds over 80mph, the car
vibrates quite seriously and you feel like you're going to lose control of
which way the car's going.  I'm thinking it's a problem with the front
rotors (warping?) or (more unlikely) the ABS.  Any ideas on how to further
diagnose this or if you know what the problem is, what should be done next?

Thanks!
--Erik

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC, 5-speed)        62,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 11:38:41 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Coil Packs/VR4
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 11:39:36 -0700
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What are the specs on the stock coil packs on the VR4?

Im considering a retrofit of what I have on my Supra to the VR4 if the wiring is
similar (it should be) but I havent investigated yet.

But first, the actual output specs would come in handy.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 12:00:00 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Honking goose gone / or not (findings)
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During the period of asking people about what filter they have this is the
result :

I got 14 replies :
7 FIPK ... 5 with goose
3 HKS ... 1 with goose
1 Greddy ... 1 with goose
3 Stock ... 1 with goose

Everybody with a BOV reports the goose gone. Any setup with the stock BPV causes
a honcking goose even stock. Even with the MAF the goose was there. Replacing
the valve then with a 1st gen or any other helps to get rid of this. It also
seems that the 2nd gen is more prone to the sound than the first ones. Maybe
more boost but still the old BPV.

My conclusion is that with the increased air flow the intake vacuum "may"
increase just enough and causes the valve to be out of its tolerances. Note that
one side of the valve is pushed from the boost in the y-pipe, the other drawn
from the intake and only the spring together with the boost from the intake
plenum pushes against it. The only solution is to use a stronger BOV or even one
that has other specifications. The cheapest way is to get a 1st gen DSM BPV and
one of the best is the Greddy BOV (also PBV) that works really good by venting
back to the intake.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 12:00:05 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Using Brake Cleaner to clean off Apex'i Bov
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I know exactly what you are speaking of :-) IMHO, brake cleaner is too
aggressive and the BOV has some sealings as well as a rubber gasket that moves !
I used carb cleaner spray as well as WD-40 and both worked very good.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> This may be a dumb question; is it safe to use a Brake Cleaner to clean out
> the internals and external of my Apex'i Sequential Blow off Valve?  I had
> some major oil build up inside the BOV due to possible blown turbos or
> internal motor problems.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 12:04:53 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Coil Packs/VR4
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Specs are :

0.67-0.81 Ohms primary, 11.3-15.3 kOhms secondary. Wires are max 22kOhms. One
line of each coil is connected to the 12V switched on by ignition. The other
line is drawn down to Ground with the power transistors.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> What are the specs on the stock coil packs on the VR4?
>
> Im considering a retrofit of what I have on my Supra to the VR4 if the wiring is
> similar (it should be) but I havent investigated yet.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 12:13:12 1999
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To: "'Matthews'" <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
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Subject: RE: Team3S: new brake pads
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 12:14:08 -0700
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My initial feelings are a such.

1)  You didnt resurface the rotors, you had HORRIBLE surface contact area,
hardly any.  IE: Your rotor wasnt flat, but the pads were.  Could also quickly
glaze the new pads in those areas (more bad).

Dont skip steps when doing basic R&R on your car, you could have hurt yerself.

-----Original Message-----
From: Matthews [mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 10:24 AM
To: Team 3S Tech List
Subject: Team3S: new brake pads


As I mentioned in a post last night, yesterday I installed new Abex
front brake pads.  Today on the way home I came up on my exit pretty
fast and could not slow down fast enough to take the turn!  I ended up
sailing on by with the pedal to the floor!  Pretty scarry, and I'm lucky
it wasn't an emergency situation.

Now I know that most pads require a break-in period, but does this sound
normal?  This was my first hard braking on these pads.  I did a few more
on the way home and there was a strong brake smell and some smoke.  When
I got home I checked the rotors and fluid resevoir - both looked good.

Note that the rotors were not turned prior to installing these pads.
These rotors went though a set of Stillen Metal Matrix pads followed by
a few thousand miles on Roger's stock Mitsu pads before the Abexes went
on.

Any suggestions?  Is this normal?  How can I expedite the break-in in
the interest of safety?  Thanx!!
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 12:16:36 1999
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To: "'Gross, Erik'" <erik.gross@intel.com>,
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Question for Brake Gurus
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 12:16:57 -0700
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Yes, you have rotor problems.

They are warping in a hurry under load (IE: heating up quickly at high[er]
speeds).

Warping is perhaps the main reason I dont like to resurface rotors (but when Im
poor and out of autox season..I do) because when you resurface you loose mass in
the rotor, that mass absorbs heat and will prevent warping in a controlled
proper cooldown.  A rotor with less thermal mass will tend to warp quicker.

BUT..you need rotors...and dont forget new pads as well.

-----Original Message-----
From: Gross, Erik [mailto:erik.gross@intel.com]
Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 11:24 AM
To: 'Team3S List'
Subject: Team3S: Question for Brake Gurus


My apologies, but this isn't about 20" rotors, just the normal brakes on a
VR-4 :)  For a friend of mine:

car: 1994 VR-4
rotors: stock
calipers: stock
other stuff: stock
alignment: good
wheel balancing: good

Problem:
When braking (and only when braking) from speeds over 80mph, the car
vibrates quite seriously and you feel like you're going to lose control of
which way the car's going.  I'm thinking it's a problem with the front
rotors (warping?) or (more unlikely) the ABS.  Any ideas on how to further
diagnose this or if you know what the problem is, what should be done next?

Thanks!
--Erik

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC, 5-speed)        62,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-------------------------------------------------------------

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 12:32:50 1999
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To: "'robby@swissonline.ch'" <robby@swissonline.ch>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Coil Packs/VR4
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 12:33:44 -0700
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Im not an electrical guy..sorry *grin*..but is 11.3-15.4KOhms the output of the
coil to spark?

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Friday, October 22, 1999 12:03 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Coil Packs/VR4


Specs are :

0.67-0.81 Ohms primary, 11.3-15.3 kOhms secondary. Wires are max 22kOhms. One
line of each coil is connected to the 12V switched on by ignition. The other
line is drawn down to Ground with the power transistors.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> What are the specs on the stock coil packs on the VR4?
>
> Im considering a retrofit of what I have on my Supra to the VR4 if the wiring
is
> similar (it should be) but I havent investigated yet.

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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 13:50:12 1999
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Cc: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 22:47:03 +0200
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Knock .... caused by detonation, to high tolerances and more is the major
enemy of our engine. We know that there are some things like higher octane,
water injection, ignition upgrade and ... fuel ....can help to get rid of
the knock. We know that the later is normally used for the power and not to
cool the chamber but looking at the stock rich condition this made me
thinking.

If you haven't already seen my MAF installation page go and check out the
picture of the first datalog. As I tuned the fuel controller I did this like
everyone with the help of an A/F meter. This, of course, is simply a
voltmeter that shows the voltage with a range from 0-1V. Devided by 10 LEDs
this means each one represents 10mV. I therefore tuned the thing in to go up
to 0.9V at WOT. I did this and got the car running well and it felt good.
But the datalog then showed the truth : knock allover the bandwidth. In 1st,
2nd and a bit more in 3rd due to the heavy load, but always there. The most
interesting thing was that the ECU did NOT retard the timing even with a lot
knock ! Why ?? Is this because the ECU was maybe still learning ? Or could
the fact of a static barometric and temp signal be the cause ? Or was the
ECU still ignoring this high knock amount ? The later logs showed then the
ignition got retarded the longer I ran the car. The car already runned at
least 10 miles before I made the tests and this tells me that it really take
soem time until the ECU even learned to retard the ignition.

Now the last finding reminded me that people are resetting the ECU before a
run on the track and will see better performance then. Sure, we know why :
The timing is advanced and, even with knock, it is not retarded ! Result :
more power ... and more danger. Therefore, if you do this ONLY DO THIS with
racing gas. The ECU is not able to take care of it !

Now the more critical thing : O2 sensor readings. Look again at the pic and
you can see that the injector curve is much lower after the MAF because I
haven't had it tuned in fully. But the O2 sensors showed rich 0.92 Volts
WITH knock. Argh, I hate this word ..... Now one would say bah, this little
knock, but hey this can and will hurt your engine more and more. Now how
would I have the ARC or any fuel controller tuned in without the datalogger
??? Yeah, right, with the A/F meter. But the meter is not the problem,
although the higher the resolution the better the ability to tune in the
fuel controlling device. But the question is still there : How much knock do
I really have, none, little or too much ?

I'm happy to be able to have the datalogger and the longer I look at the
graphs the more do I say to myself ... $300 for the logger would have saved
me $3200 or more for replacing the pistons. I highly recommend using a good
diagnostic tool when you are a serious car enthusiast (yep, me) with a thin
wallet (me too) and a great racer (ahem, not me).

Today I'd say an A/F meter, a good voltmeter with peak hold feature and temp
reading are necessary when you start to tweak the fuel system. Even more I
recommend an EGT meter and a device like logger to be able to get the most
out of your car without too much danger of cracking something. Please
understand that I learnt a lot due to my ignorance and I paid for this as
many of us did in the past (including a lot friends that are not knowing the
Internet).

Now the ultimate tool would be .... a knock meter ! I do have the MSD knock
sensor that comes with a good filter and it's own piezo coupler (microphone)
but I haven't found any place where it would fit. I will try to find a space
close to the stock sensor when I change the injectors bit I do not plan to
tap into the stock sensor. But this wouldn't be a bad thing, because tests
by John Basol showed that a knock LED my work although something went wrong
and fried the knock sensor (who knows...) But creating such a device that
attaches to the stock sensor or to an output of the ECU (not the solenoid
LED) with about three LEDs for the knock intensity will be worth a lot ! It
would have saved mine and other engine as well as some more I see in the
future.

Ok friends, some thoughts from me regarding fuel and that it is not easy to
stay away from the dark zone. Getting injectors, an ARC, pump big turbos,
everything results in more hp ... but we need HEALTHY horses and not little
ponies that are byte by the dogs.

Happy boosting
Roger,
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 13:51:11 1999
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It doesn't smell like how a clutch normally smells. Plus Im not noticing
any slip or anything.

The car only has 19k miles on it.. hmmm.. any tests for a bad clutch?

mb



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 13:56:42 1999
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>Problem: When braking (and only when braking) from speeds over 80mph, the car
>vibrates quite seriously and you feel like you're going to lose control of
>which way the car's going.  I'm thinking it's a problem with the front
>rotors (warping?) or (more unlikely) the ABS.  Any ideas on how to further
>diagnose this or if you know what the problem is, what should be done next?

Warped rotors, most likely. Take it to a brake shop and get them turned.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me.>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 14:31:24 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Matthews" <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
        "Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <38109D97.F9B534F@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Re: Team3S: new brake pads
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 14:26:26 -0700
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> As I mentioned in a post last night, yesterday I installed new Abex
> front brake pads.  Today on the way home I came up on my exit pretty
> fast and could not slow down fast enough to take the turn!  I ended up
> sailing on by with the pedal to the floor!  Pretty scarry, and I'm lucky
> it wasn't an emergency situation.
>
> Now I know that most pads require a break-in period, but does this sound
> normal?  This was my first hard braking on these pads.  I did a few more
> on the way home and there was a strong brake smell and some smoke.  When
> I got home I checked the rotors and fluid resevoir - both looked good.
======================================================

Pad bedding is done by running the pads through a complete heat cycle.
Wilwood sez ---- do a few low speed stops to make sure the system is
working then gradually increase the braking and speed until the brakes
come up to racing temperature. Then allow the brakes to cool by driving
without using the brakes [ if possible ] . When I did my Porsche/Brembo
brakes I drove around for 20 min or so then parked it without using the
hand brake until they cooled completely.

   Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 14:36:34 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Brake Pads needed
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 14:37:31 -0700
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I live in the Bay Area, and I need new pads for a 95 VR4.

I have a set of Hawks on there now (talk about dust) and theyre beginning to
squeal on me a lot...

What around here can I purchacse other than stock?

I wont like doing this, but this month is a "poor" month, and I will be turning
rotors till next autox season when new ones will be purchased.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 14:38:16 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
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>> > Hmm, wouldn't a 40/60 split be more desirable for
>> > autocrossing?  Would it be possible to convert to
>> > the 40/60 split on a 2nd gen?
>>
>> Sure, downgrade to the 5-speed tranny...
>As the owner of a 93 TT I would consider the change to a five speed
>as being an upgrade :-) >   Jim Berry


Jim & All-
Wow; I'm snowed!  Are we talking about the power split between the
front and rear axels?  I have a '95 VR-4, and have read that the split is
45% front, 55% rear.  I assume this ratio is somehow controlled by the
fluid coupling in the transaxel, but I sure as hell don't know how it works.
Anyone willing to post a tutorial on this topic?
Regards,
ptg

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 14:38:53 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>,
        "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <4148FEAAD879D311AC5700A0C969E8905A833C@orsmsx35.jf.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Question for Brake Gurus
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>
> Problem:
> When braking (and only when braking) from speeds over 80mph, the car
> vibrates quite seriously and you feel like you're going to lose control of
> which way the car's going.  I'm thinking it's a problem with the front
> rotors (warping?) or (more unlikely) the ABS.  Any ideas on how to further
> diagnose this or if you know what the problem is, what should be done next?
=====================================================

Most likely the rotors --- at moderate speed gently apply a little brake and
at the same time release your hold on the steering wheel [ try not to crash ].
If the rotors are warped the steering wheel will rock back and forth 1/4" or so.
Remember, just enough brake to touch the pad to the rotor. He could also
have some worn steering parts eg. tie rod ends.

   Jim berry


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 15:16:17 1999
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        "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
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>
> Jim & All-
> Wow; I'm snowed!  Are we talking about the power split between the
> front and rear axels?  I have a '95 VR-4, and have read that the split is
> 45% front, 55% rear.  I assume this ratio is somehow controlled by the
> fluid coupling in the transaxel, but I sure as hell don't know how it works.
> Anyone willing to post a tutorial on this topic?
=================================================

Yup yer right ---- all the torque splitting takes place inside the viscous
coupling unit in the transmission and, just like the weather all we can
do is talk about it --- we can't change it.
'the unit itself is simple in theory --- there are a series of stacked disks
attached to the input shaft interleaved with a series of disks attached
to the output shaft. The spacing of the disks and the viscosity of the
fluid determine how much force is transmitted to the output shaft. The
reality is more complex, the viscous coupler is a cylinder about 10"
long and 6" in diameter with a drive gear around the outside of one
end [ input ] a taper bearing on the other end to locate and hold in
place. The output is a concentric shaft that goes to the front differential
[ in the transmission ] and to the transfer case. In the case of my
disassembled spare transmission the internal magic is, and shall remain
unknown.

    Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 15:50:57 1999
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From: Errin Daniel Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
cc: stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: SL/VR4 Caliper Clearance
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[Sorry if this message comes out weird, but this
is my first time composing an email in PINE.]

This is kind of urgent, so I would really
appreciate a prompt response.

Could somebody please tell me, to the closest
accuracy possible, the difference in wheel
clearance between a second gen 3000GT SL (or
Stealth ES) and a second gen 3000GT VR4 (or
Stealth TT), in millimeters if possible. I am
referring to the distance from the edge of the
caliper to the nearest edge of the wheel spoke.

I can't use the distance from a the caliper to
the wheel spoke on an NA 3/S because they have
different stock wheels than mine (I have 94 17"
VR4 wheels).  I actually need to know (as close
as possible) how much farther the calipers on
a VR4/TT stick out compared to an NA.

Or could somebody please measure the distance
(on an NA 3/S car) from the rotor to the farthest
out point on the brake caliper?  Then I can
compare this to my car, but I think I will need
to compensate for thinner rotors on the NA.

I really appreciate the help,

--Errin Humphrey

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 16:12:26 1999
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Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 19:24:06 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
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R.G. wrote:

> I'm happy to be able to have the datalogger and the longer I look at the
> graphs the more do I say to myself ... $300 for the logger would have saved
> me $3200 or more for replacing the pistons. I highly recommend using a good
> diagnostic tool when you are a serious car enthusiast (yep, me) with a thin
> wallet (me too) and a great racer (ahem, not me).

I could not agree more, I now have a chance of correctly tuning the car with mods.
Before I got the datalogger, I'd many times have to guess how my car liked or disliked a
change I made.  Now, with much less frustration, I can tune in the car.

> Today I'd say an A/F meter, a good voltmeter with peak hold feature and temp
> reading are necessary when you start to tweak the fuel system. Even more I
> recommend an EGT meter and a device like logger to be able to get the most
> out of your car without too much danger of cracking something. Please
> understand that I learnt a lot due to my ignorance and I paid for this as
> many of us did in the past (including a lot friends that are not knowing the
> Internet).

Roger and others - Do you feel you can safely run a car with the datalogger alone.  For
example if I run high enough octane fuel to eliminate knock at a given boost level, do I
guarantee I'm not damaging the engine?  Or, is knock only part of the picture, you
should also watch EGT temps and O2 voltage to ensure your not running lean?  Can running
lean damage the engine if its not severe enough to cause knock?

Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R?T TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 18:42:22 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: "Errin Daniel Humphrey" <errin@u.washington.edu>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: <stealth@starnet.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SL/VR4 Caliper Clearance
Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 20:38:45 -0500
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Errin - if you're after caliper to rim measurements for a 2nd gen VR-4 I
think you cannot compare to a Stealth TT.  As recently discovered by Mike
Chapelski it appears that the Stealth TT calipers are somewhat wider that
the VR-4 counterpart.

In case you still need it, my '95 R/T TT with 18" factory chrome wheels
measure 7 mm between the outer edge of the caliper and the inside of the
rim.

Oskar


>
> Could somebody please tell me, to the closest
> accuracy possible, the difference in wheel
> clearance between a second gen 3000GT SL (or
> Stealth ES) and a second gen 3000GT VR4 (or
> Stealth TT), in millimeters if possible.

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Cc: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
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Roger,

When I see Nissan Skylines running 800+ horses, it makes me wonder *why*
we're getting so much detonation out of 1.00 bar on our engines.
Perhaps an upgraded front-mount intercooler is our solution.  I've heard of
a Skyline pulling 6000 rpm
at 1.00 bar and only getting an intake charge 20-30 degrees above ambient.

With our stock intercoolers becoming too heak soaked, detonation is bound to
happen.
Add that to the reduction in in-temps, and pressure drop throughout the
core(s), we have the
recipe for a major restriction in HP.

In theory, maybe this is what we need to reduce intake temps ultimately; use
a front mount,
water injection, and race-gas.
25 psi anyone?

What do you guys think?  Can theory apply to practice?

-Noble
(nketo@accglobal.net)





-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 12:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: Knock, knock ....


>Knock .... caused by detonation, to high tolerances and more is the major
>enemy of our engine. We know that there are some things like higher octane,
>water injection, ignition upgrade and ... fuel ....can help to get rid of
>the knock. We know that the later is normally used for the power and not to
>cool the chamber but looking at the stock rich condition this made me
>thinking.
>
>If you haven't already seen my MAF installation page go and check out the
>picture of the first datalog. As I tuned the fuel controller I did this
like
>everyone with the help of an A/F meter. This, of course, is simply a
>voltmeter that shows the voltage with a range from 0-1V. Devided by 10 LEDs
>this means each one represents 10mV. I therefore tuned the thing in to go
up
>to 0.9V at WOT. I did this and got the car running well and it felt good.
>But the datalog then showed the truth : knock allover the bandwidth. In
1st,
>2nd and a bit more in 3rd due to the heavy load, but always there. The most
>interesting thing was that the ECU did NOT retard the timing even with a
lot
>knock ! Why ?? Is this because the ECU was maybe still learning ? Or could
>the fact of a static barometric and temp signal be the cause ? Or was the
>ECU still ignoring this high knock amount ? The later logs showed then the
>ignition got retarded the longer I ran the car. The car already runned at
>least 10 miles before I made the tests and this tells me that it really
take
>soem time until the ECU even learned to retard the ignition.
>
>Now the last finding reminded me that people are resetting the ECU before a
>run on the track and will see better performance then. Sure, we know why :
>The timing is advanced and, even with knock, it is not retarded ! Result :
>more power ... and more danger. Therefore, if you do this ONLY DO THIS with
>racing gas. The ECU is not able to take care of it !
>
>Now the more critical thing : O2 sensor readings. Look again at the pic and
>you can see that the injector curve is much lower after the MAF because I
>haven't had it tuned in fully. But the O2 sensors showed rich 0.92 Volts
>WITH knock. Argh, I hate this word ..... Now one would say bah, this little
>knock, but hey this can and will hurt your engine more and more. Now how
>would I have the ARC or any fuel controller tuned in without the datalogger
>??? Yeah, right, with the A/F meter. But the meter is not the problem,
>although the higher the resolution the better the ability to tune in the
>fuel controlling device. But the question is still there : How much knock
do
>I really have, none, little or too much ?
>
>I'm happy to be able to have the datalogger and the longer I look at the
>graphs the more do I say to myself ... $300 for the logger would have saved
>me $3200 or more for replacing the pistons. I highly recommend using a good
>diagnostic tool when you are a serious car enthusiast (yep, me) with a thin
>wallet (me too) and a great racer (ahem, not me).
>
>Today I'd say an A/F meter, a good voltmeter with peak hold feature and
temp
>reading are necessary when you start to tweak the fuel system. Even more I
>recommend an EGT meter and a device like logger to be able to get the most
>out of your car without too much danger of cracking something. Please
>understand that I learnt a lot due to my ignorance and I paid for this as
>many of us did in the past (including a lot friends that are not knowing
the
>Internet).
>
>Now the ultimate tool would be .... a knock meter ! I do have the MSD knock
>sensor that comes with a good filter and it's own piezo coupler
(microphone)
>but I haven't found any place where it would fit. I will try to find a
space
>close to the stock sensor when I change the injectors bit I do not plan to
>tap into the stock sensor. But this wouldn't be a bad thing, because tests
>by John Basol showed that a knock LED my work although something went wrong
>and fried the knock sensor (who knows...) But creating such a device that
>attaches to the stock sensor or to an output of the ECU (not the solenoid
>LED) with about three LEDs for the knock intensity will be worth a lot ! It
>would have saved mine and other engine as well as some more I see in the
>future.
>
>Ok friends, some thoughts from me regarding fuel and that it is not easy to
>stay away from the dark zone. Getting injectors, an ARC, pump big turbos,
>everything results in more hp ... but we need HEALTHY horses and not little
>ponies that are byte by the dogs.
>
>Happy boosting
>Roger,
>93'3000GT TT
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 22 20:27:53 1999
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To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
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-----Original Message-----
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....


>Roger, & everybody,
>
>When I see Nissan Skylines running 800+ horses, it makes me wonder *why*
>we're getting so much detonation out of 1.00 bar on our engines.
>Perhaps an upgraded front-mount intercooler is our solution.  I've heard of
>a Skyline pulling 6000 rpm
>at 1.00 bar and only getting an intake charge 20-30 degrees above ambient.
>
>With our stock intercoolers becoming too heak soaked, detonation is bound
to
>happen.
>Add that to the reduction in in-temps, and pressure drop throughout the
>core(s), we have the
>recipe for a major restriction in HP.
>
>In theory, maybe this is what we need to reduce intake temps ultimately;
use
>a front mount,
>water injection, and race-gas.
>25 psi anyone?
>
>What do you guys think?  Can theory apply to practice?
>
>-Noble
>(nketo@accglobal.net)
>
>
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
>To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Cc: Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
>Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 12:51 PM
>Subject: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
>
>
>>Knock .... caused by detonation, to high tolerances and more is the major
>>enemy of our engine. We know that there are some things like higher
octane,
>>water injection, ignition upgrade and ... fuel ....can help to get rid of
>>the knock. We know that the later is normally used for the power and not
to
>>cool the chamber but looking at the stock rich condition this made me
>>thinking.
>>
>>If you haven't already seen my MAF installation page go and check out the
>>picture of the first datalog. As I tuned the fuel controller I did this
>like
>>everyone with the help of an A/F meter. This, of course, is simply a
>>voltmeter that shows the voltage with a range from 0-1V. Devided by 10
LEDs
>>this means each one represents 10mV. I therefore tuned the thing in to go
>up
>>to 0.9V at WOT. I did this and got the car running well and it felt good.
>>But the datalog then showed the truth : knock allover the bandwidth. In
>1st,
>>2nd and a bit more in 3rd due to the heavy load, but always there. The
most
>>interesting thing was that the ECU did NOT retard the timing even with a
>lot
>>knock ! Why ?? Is this because the ECU was maybe still learning ? Or could
>>the fact of a static barometric and temp signal be the cause ? Or was the
>>ECU still ignoring this high knock amount ? The later logs showed then the
>>ignition got retarded the longer I ran the car. The car already runned at
>>least 10 miles before I made the tests and this tells me that it really
>take
>>soem time until the ECU even learned to retard the ignition.
>>
>>Now the last finding reminded me that people are resetting the ECU before
a
>>run on the track and will see better performance then. Sure, we know why :
>>The timing is advanced and, even with knock, it is not retarded ! Result :
>>more power ... and more danger. Therefore, if you do this ONLY DO THIS
with
>>racing gas. The ECU is not able to take care of it !
>>
>>Now the more critical thing : O2 sensor readings. Look again at the pic
and
>>you can see that the injector curve is much lower after the MAF because I
>>haven't had it tuned in fully. But the O2 sensors showed rich 0.92 Volts
>>WITH knock. Argh, I hate this word ..... Now one would say bah, this
little
>>knock, but hey this can and will hurt your engine more and more. Now how
>>would I have the ARC or any fuel controller tuned in without the
datalogger
>>??? Yeah, right, with the A/F meter. But the meter is not the problem,
>>although the higher the resolution the better the ability to tune in the
>>fuel controlling device. But the question is still there : How much knock
>do
>>I really have, none, little or too much ?
>>
>>I'm happy to be able to have the datalogger and the longer I look at the
>>graphs the more do I say to myself ... $300 for the logger would have
saved
>>me $3200 or more for replacing the pistons. I highly recommend using a
good
>>diagnostic tool when you are a serious car enthusiast (yep, me) with a
thin
>>wallet (me too) and a great racer (ahem, not me).
>>
>>Today I'd say an A/F meter, a good voltmeter with peak hold feature and
>temp
>>reading are necessary when you start to tweak the fuel system. Even more I
>>recommend an EGT meter and a device like logger to be able to get the most
>>out of your car without too much danger of cracking something. Please
>>understand that I learnt a lot due to my ignorance and I paid for this as
>>many of us did in the past (including a lot friends that are not knowing
>the
>>Internet).
>>
>>Now the ultimate tool would be .... a knock meter ! I do have the MSD
knock
>>sensor that comes with a good filter and it's own piezo coupler
>(microphone)
>>but I haven't found any place where it would fit. I will try to find a
>space
>>close to the stock sensor when I change the injectors bit I do not plan to
>>tap into the stock sensor. But this wouldn't be a bad thing, because tests
>>by John Basol showed that a knock LED my work although something went
wrong
>>and fried the knock sensor (who knows...) But creating such a device that
>>attaches to the stock sensor or to an output of the ECU (not the solenoid
>>LED) with about three LEDs for the knock intensity will be worth a lot !
It
>>would have saved mine and other engine as well as some more I see in the
>>future.
>>
>>Ok friends, some thoughts from me regarding fuel and that it is not easy
to
>>stay away from the dark zone. Getting injectors, an ARC, pump big turbos,
>>everything results in more hp ... but we need HEALTHY horses and not
little
>>ponies that are byte by the dogs.
>>
>>Happy boosting
>>Roger,
>>93'3000GT TT
>>
>>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 00:41:35 1999
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Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 03:41:08 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Update:  NO BOOST!!!  situation.
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Well everyone, we did the compression test today!!   These were the following
measurements:

Cylinder #1 :  165psi
Cylinder #2 :  165psi
Cylinder #3 :  150psi
Cylinder #4 :  160psi
Cylinder #5 :  160psi
Cylinder #6 :  165psi

This was NOT a thorough leak down compression test.  It was just a simple
"insert compression tool" into cylinder & crank motor test!!!  All cylinders
were very healthy, considering I have 82,000 miles!!!!!  # 3 Cylinder  was
the weakest at 150psi.  So I definitely do NOT have an internal motor problem
(pistons, rings, valves, etc.); my tests have confirmed that my IHI turbos
indeed are definitely the problem of my NO BOOST situation!!!!   Now I'll
have to pay yet again to take apart the turbos to inspect the exhaust/hot
sides and have to buy new turbos and re-install them all over again!!

I figured, may as well put new spark plugs in since everything was apart. 
Replaced old NGK plugs (only 10,000 miles old)  gapped at .032 (all appeared
healthy; but I thought might as well change to newer plugs anyway) with New
NGK plugs gapped at .034  ; then I noticed quite a bit of oil in my bov area,
y-pipe, throttle body and rear turbo area (due to a bad turbo???).  Put
everything back together - but had major "gun shot" sounds (backfire) when I
decelerated.  The backfire sounds only occurred when I let off the throttle
(NOT at WOT) and was slowing down.  The frequency of these backfires are
considerably more than when my older plugs were gapped at .032  ; my question
is why??  Why did only .002 make such a difference??  ( I have all cats
gutted and will eventually be running high boost again sometime in the near
future)  Am I getting too much oil or fuel into my system causing the
backfire?????  any ideas??  Remember I still have NO Boost!!!  And my VR4
runs perfectly, like a NON-turbo car.  It idles fine and runs fine; just no
Turbo boost.  I only get 0psi on my aftermarket boost gauge (around -5 to -7
on factory boost gauge) and definitely have NO feeling of turbo power!  I
wonder if the backfiring (when decelerating)  will disappear once my boost is
back??????

I will keep everyone posted.

Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 02:24:46 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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References: <01a901bf1cce$c63b9ee0$c6e2e6c2@rg> <38111C46.4AE6A9B0@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 10:34:19 +0200
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> Roger and others - Do you feel you can safely run a car with the
datalogger alone.  For
> example if I run high enough octane fuel to eliminate knock at a given
boost level, do I
> guarantee I'm not damaging the engine?  Or, is knock only part of the
picture, you
> should also watch EGT temps and O2 voltage to ensure your not running
lean?  Can running
> lean damage the engine if its not severe enough to cause knock?

Yes, running lean is critical but the logger will see this with the O2
sensors, the knock and the timing. Our ECU does take care of the mixture and
retards the timing when knock occurs (after relearning). For such situation
we must know that the logger is only able to read what the ECU can give you
and the more values you record the less is the frequency of the readings.
Therefore, a peak may not be found but the ECU acts upon it.

If you want to do the tuning job most seriously you'll need :
- temp readings : intake, turbo discharge, intercooler out, before TB,
intake plenum, EGT
- pressure readings : discharge, after intercooler, before turbo (turbine
backpressure), after turbo (exhaust backpressure)

Unfortunately, we cannot read the combustion chamber temperatures although
ther is a plug that is able to do this. Price is in the thousands !

Knock is indeed the result of bad conditions and therefore it's not good to
fight the symptoms but the cause of this problem. An example : very short
lean situations can be caused by too much turbine backpressure. This can
push the already burnt gases back into the combustion chamber and the result
will be lean burn in the next cycle. But our ECU can check this as it is
able to recognize a bad burn in each of our chambers and therefore retards
the timing if necessary. But this retard often causes the EGT to rise into
bnad dimensions for the material. Therefore, the datalogger may not see any
knock caused by detonation as well as our "cheap" O2 sensors just see rich
conditions but the EGT is way too high. A result of a lot of such situations
can then be damage that finally will show knock then. IMHO, and EGT is
necessary (I have two who are sitting around) for sure and with the
combination with the datalogger it's the best way to tune in the car.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 02:24:48 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
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> When I see Nissan Skylines running 800+ horses, it makes me wonder *why*
> we're getting so much detonation out of 1.00 bar on our engines.
> Perhaps an upgraded front-mount intercooler is our solution.  I've heard
of
> a Skyline pulling 6000 rpm
> at 1.00 bar and only getting an intake charge 20-30 degrees above ambient.

Fisrt, the engines are a total different design and to pull out 800 horses
they are using very good pistons, rods and speacial treted walls.

The intercoolers are only one problem but you must see the full picture :
- little turbos
- small intercoolers
- a lot piping
- weak ignition

> Add that to the reduction in in-temps, and pressure drop throughout the
> core(s), we have the recipe for a major restriction in HP.

Above 10 psi the 9b run out of their specs and the discharge temp reaches
very high values. You can then take a huge FMIC that cools the air down but
IMHO, at first yo uhave to do somethign to the turbo. 15G for example have a
total different efficiency area and the discharge temp at 15psi is much
lower than ob the tiny 9b or even my 13g. The intake temp became negligible
here as the temp reached 290°F (!) The result was 172°F at the intake, about
90°F above ambient on that day ! With water injection, this temperature has
then be lowered down to 102°F max after the other run and this was only
about 10°F above ambient what was a good level. This gave me more power,
more advanced timing and less knock. The same can be achieved with a huge
intercooler.

> In theory, maybe this is what we need to reduce intake temps ultimately;
use
> a front mount, water injection, and race-gas. 25 psi anyone?
> What do you guys think?  Can theory apply to practice?

No theory, reality ! Not 25 psi, because here I'd say to take forged pistons
and very good seals, not stock garbage (grin) With race gas you hinder
detonation as you do with the colder intake. This is the formula but I'd
start at the turbos if you want to go the prof. way :)

Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 02:24:49 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Update:  NO BOOST!!!  situation.
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> Well everyone, we did the compression test today!!

Great, no problem on the head and piston side. Damn good readings !!

> my tests have confirmed that my IHI turbos indeed are definitely the
problem

Aha, IHI - Turbos ???? Don't they have a custom flange to the exhaust
manifolds ?? Definitely, they have to come apart to check.

>  then I noticed quite a bit of oil in my bov area,  y-pipe, throttle body
and

Well, there is always some oil around but you should not see a lake !

> considerably more than when my older plugs were gapped at .032  ; my
question
> is why??  Why did only .002 make such a difference??

What, if the ignition has a problem or the O2 sensors do not give the right
readings ?? Again, I wish to see a datalog. Don't you have a friend or so
who's able to lend you the logger ?

> Am I getting too much oil or fuel into my system causing the backfire?

Backfire could be fuel that is ignited in the exhaust. When you take your
turbos off you'll find some signs, like white or very light brown colors
around the turbine inlet and the turbine itselfs that could be pointing to
such a cause.

> Turbo boost.  I only get 0psi on my aftermarket boost gauge (around -5
to -7
> on factory boost gauge) and definitely have NO feeling of turbo power!

What, if the turbine wheels are running free and the shaft between it and
the compressor wheel is not connected ? If one of both are not sitting
properly on the shaft or something broke this coudl be happen and you have a
totally normal runnign engine. Maybe both turbos runned into the same
problem due to the backfiring that does bad things to the turbine or at
least the wastegates or flanges. If this conditions stay over a longer
period the gates may got damaged and start to leak. It is really possible
that this happend on both within a week. Why not taking the front O2 sensor
housing off and inspecting the wastegates and turbine wheel conditions from
there ? Not a big deal but worth the time.

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 08:36:20 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding calipers
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Can the front brake calipers on a 94 VR4 be rebuilt?

I seem to have totally banged, scratched, and gouged the pistons, and I
ruined several O-rings on my calipers from a dozen or more pad changes this
season. Is this something that can be done on the workbench or is it best
left to a dealer? Is there a rebuilding kit?

Even if I go to the Big Red, I still need to fix my old calipers.

And while we're on the subject, any chance the front calipers would fit on
the rear?...I can see a system with Big Red up front and the big front
calipers on the rear. Might actually stop the furshlugginer car.

Please advise.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 09:06:03 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: VR4 AWD Torque Split ACTUAL
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The 3000GT/Stealth TT in the USA and in the whole world I feel confident,
have always had a 45% front / 55% rear torque bias.  There was no change in
1994/with the 6 speed.  The 91-93 most definitely also had this SAME 45/55% split.  For
reference,
see most any article on the car but for specifics I refer to the most complete article on
the car/tech specs when it first came out:  Road and Track, September 1990--has the
3000VR4 on the COVER with title  "PUMPED UP!"

This states on p.41 that center planetary diff incoprorates a VCU; with tires getting same
traction, split is 45/55 front/rear.  With slippage at either end, the end with more traction
gets more torque.

Matt, where did you see any reports to the contrary?  That is bad info, hate to let that get
into people's minds because it will be a myth from then on...
Jack Tertadian

Matt Jannusch wrote:

> > > AWD 55% at the rear wheels and 45% at the front wheels.
> > I  heard '91-93 models actually had
> > 40/60 split and it was not until '94-99
> > that cars came with 45/55 split...
>
> These are the correct numbers.  It was changed in '94 when the 6-speed Getrag was introduced.
> -Matt '95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 09:09:40 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: xfer case oil check
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I believe the 1991 models had only 2 access holes:  the drain hole, and one fill hole.
  The level was supposed to be set a bit BELOW the fill hole, a difficult thing to do.

The 1992+ had 3 holes:  drain, fill, and CHECK on the driverside faceplate (a 14mm bolt
head);
   fill till runs out the check hole.

1994+ 6 speed (cast iron) xfer cases again have 2 holes:  drain, and fill;
   fill to the lower edge of hole.

Jack Tertadian

Curt Gendron wrote:

> The picture in the newer manuals are incorrect for the transfer case.  The
> picture they show is the 91-93 transfer case.  They have three plugs.  The
> 94+ iron transfer cases only have two plugs, drain and fill/check.
> Curt
>
> >Then I moved on to the xfer case.  My manual shows a drain bolt
> >(bottom), fill bolt (front) and inspection bolt (side), but I could not
> >find the inspection bolt.  Was it eliminated with the 2nd gen xfer
> >cases?  I have the '94 shop manual but perhaps it wasn't updated.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 10:33:07 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: "Matthews" <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
        "Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 13:20:57 -0000
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Its really not a double overdrive.  The gears are spaced tighter, so the
sixth is like the old fifth.  I use 6th all the time at highway speeds of
60-80 cause otherwise the rpms are up around 3k and your wasting gas!!


Sam 95 VR4

-----Original Message-----
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Friday, October 22, 1999 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4-AWS?


>robby@freesurf.ch wrote:
>>
>> > as being an upgrade :-) For a car with this much torque I feel the six
>> > speed is unnecessary. The six is supposed to be a little stronger
>> > but from the complaints of the owners I'm not to sure
>>
>> Oh, I highly disagree with the six speed is unnecessary ! I drove both
and
>> must say the six speeder has a much better power band in 2nd and 3rd than
>> mine. It just feels lighter and better selectable on the road, especially
up
>> the hills and through the serpentines. Of course, just my opinion :-)
>
>True, but remember that the roads and speed limits are a bit different
>over here!  A double overdrive transmission is very useful in Europe
>where it is possible (ie- legal) to cruise at well over 100 mph all day
>long, but the more I drive over here, the more I wonder when I ever used
>sixth gear back in the states!
>
>Okay, back to tech topics... -Jim
>--
>Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
>matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
>*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
>Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
>A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
>Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
>Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
>Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
>G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
>1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 11:45:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding calipers
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 20:39:36 +0200
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> Can the front brake calipers on a 94 VR4 be rebuilt?

Yes.

> I seem to have totally banged, scratched, and gouged the pistons, and I
> ruined several O-rings on my calipers from a dozen or more pad changes
this
> season. Is this something that can be done on the workbench or is it best
> left to a dealer? Is there a rebuilding kit?

I don't know if there is a kit but I got a set with all rings and boots. The
pistons on mien are onyl scratched at the top because I pushed them back
without the necessary tool.

> And while we're on the subject, any chance the front calipers would fit on
> the rear?...I can see a system with Big Red up front and the big front
> calipers on the rear. Might actually stop the furshlugginer car.

Well, you need to get rid of the handbrake and this is not easy ! The
diameter of the rotor is too small for the larger caliper. I think your 94
should already have the two piston rear caliper and with the Bremsas and PBR
brakes the braking got a much better feeling for me.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 11:45:36 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Sirius 3000GT Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F7651@EXCHANGE1> <3811DC21.6F8C80CB@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: VR4 AWD Torque Split ACTUAL
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 20:43:04 +0200
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> The 3000GT/Stealth TT in the USA and in the whole world I feel confident,
> have always had a 45% front / 55% rear torque bias.  There was no change
in
> 1994/with the 6 speed.

I also checked the information I have seen like prospectus and on every
report and every paper where the bias was mentioned a 45/55 was written for
any years.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 12:16:58 1999
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Hello all, new to the car and I'm hearing that one of my struts is
leaking, and I'm worried about cost mainly.  I have a 93 R/T TT, and
when I quickly inquired to a friend from a tire store he recalled
Cadillac's electronic struts running round $500?  Same deal?  Ack!
Thanks in advance,
--Rich

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 12:59:36 1999
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From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
To: "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Head Light glass
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 12:54:57 -0700
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Hello all,
I don't know how many of you on the group have this problem, but I have it
so I have to assume some of you do as well, it is what looks like stress
fractures in the head light glass.  I don't have the problem on both
headlights just the passenger side one.  Is this just a rare thing and
should just replace or is this an issue that reoccurs no mater what you do.
Thank you for any help in advance.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 14:29:10 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <rah@isd.net>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <38120959.A808ABE@isd.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut
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> Hello all, new to the car and I'm hearing that one of my struts is
> leaking, and I'm worried about cost mainly.  I have a 93 R/T TT, and
> when I quickly inquired to a friend from a tire store he recalled
> Cadillac's electronic struts running round $500?  Same deal?

Unfortunately, the stock struts are damn expensive but Mitsu should be able
to repair them if they are not damaged too much. The price will be in the
$380 area but this could depend on where to get the parts from. Shooping in
calling around is maybe worth the time.

Roger
93'3000GT TT



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 14:47:21 1999
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To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Team3S: Less ign advance or knock ??
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 23:45:22 +0200
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Gang,

I'm currently testing the G-Force ECU and the programs for it. The first
version showed a timing that was less advanced than my european one and even
less timing than another US ECU datalog. The result was about zero knock
with the less timing and no noticeable loss in power. The car still feels
fast and pulls hard but of course, less timing means less power ... or am I
wrong ?? I think this is correct as a retard in the timing always causes
loss in power.

As usual, I start thinking a lot about this stuff and asked myself :

- if the timing is not that advanced as normal, the boost could be increased
more and will also more than compensate the loss of the lower timing. This
of course will result in earlier fuel problems.
- if the timing is advanced more, we can crank boost back to get the same
amount of power and therefore the fuel system would be healthier.
Unfortunately, knock occurs earlier then too.

Of course, if an ignition enhancement cures some detonation problems the
second part will be no problem and we can stock with it. But if knock stays
I just can't say what is better. More boost also means more stress to the
internals while a more advanced timing causes earlier knock.

Either way has pros and cons but what way would you go ? I do have two more
programs with a more enhanced timing but it seems that my EU ECU had some
more differneces as I notice the fans are stay on all the time after
warm-up. Is this common for a Californian car ?

Opinions, ideas ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 15:39:34 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: "Darcy Gunnlaugson" <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 01:41:54 -0800
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To Roger and everybody,

Intake temps after the turbos of 290 degrees with 13G's?
That's seems way too much!  I can only imagine over 300 with the 9G's.

Does anyone have experience with other turbos?
What about the intake temps after the turbos or the intake plenium with
15G's or those hybrid units
everyone is talking about?

I'm thinking Brian's BIG ass monster turbos (@GTPro) would work great;
they'd only be working probably
at about 40-50% efficiency though.

Any input you have would be great.

Thanks in advance to all :)
-Noble


-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Date: Saturday, October 23, 1999 1:25 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....



Above 10 psi the 9b run out of their specs and the discharge temp reaches
very high values. You can then take a huge FMIC that cools the air down but
IMHO, at first yo uhave to do somethign to the turbo. 15G for example have a
total different efficiency area and the discharge temp at 15psi is much
lower than ob the tiny 9b or even my 13g. The intake temp became negligible
here as the temp reached 290°F (!) The result was 172°F at the intake, about
90°F above ambient on that day ! With water injection, this temperature has
then be lowered down to 102°F max after the other run and this was only
about 10°F above ambient what was a good level. This gave me more power,
more advanced timing and less knock. The same can be achieved with a huge
intercooler.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 15:43:44 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Cc: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Less ignition advance or knock ??
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 15:43:34 -0700
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Roger...

I'm on my third set of G-Force chips, still haven't found the right program.
Running too rich, still fouling plugs, stripping oil from the cylinders. I
did get (from Robert) a printout of the maps for the most recent set. It's
difficult for me to understand, as I don't have a matching printout of the
stock maps, but it might be useful for you. I can fax a copy, or...???

FWIW...my experience with G-Force chips has been that, as I increase boost,
I lose power. I've attributed this to the rich condition, but it could be
the timing. For this reason, I'm only getting into the high 12s, even though
I have a set of mods that should get me into the 11s. I may yet have to
break down and buy a A/F controller, preferably one that replaces the MAF.
I'm VERY glad you're doing all the scientific research for me (and others),
it's SOOOO much better than the "hit and miss" approach.

KEEP UP THE GREAT WORK!!!

BTW...under 70 degree (F) ambient temps, one of my fans is on. The other
only turns on under long boost, and/or higher ambient temps.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 1999 2:45 PM
To: Team3S List
Cc: Darcy Gunnlaugson
Subject: Team3S: Less ign advance or knock ??


Gang,

I'm currently testing the G-Force ECU and the programs for it. The first
version showed a timing that was less advanced than my european one and even
less timing than another US ECU datalog. The result was about zero knock
with the less timing and no noticeable loss in power. The car still feels
fast and pulls hard but of course, less timing means less power ... or am I
wrong ?? I think this is correct as a retard in the timing always causes
loss in power.

As usual, I start thinking a lot about this stuff and asked myself :

- if the timing is not that advanced as normal, the boost could be increased
more and will also more than compensate the loss of the lower timing. This
of course will result in earlier fuel problems.
- if the timing is advanced more, we can crank boost back to get the same
amount of power and therefore the fuel system would be healthier.
Unfortunately, knock occurs earlier then too.

Of course, if an ignition enhancement cures some detonation problems the
second part will be no problem and we can stock with it. But if knock stays
I just can't say what is better. More boost also means more stress to the
internals while a more advanced timing causes earlier knock.

Either way has pros and cons but what way would you go ? I do have two more
programs with a more enhanced timing but it seems that my EU ECU had some
more differneces as I notice the fans are stay on all the time after
warm-up. Is this common for a Californian car ?

Opinions, ideas ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 15:57:07 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel injectors, 4ws, and my new Stillen DP
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 18:44:59 -0000
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I know these are two unrelated, but it saves space.  I was wondering if
anyone might know if the Supras (MK4) injectors will work on our cars?  I
know they are 550cc and if so, here is another car we can borrow parts from.
Also, one member stated that 95 and 96 TT do not have AWS.  This is not what
it says in my manual or in the specs of the car.  Is this guy mistaken or
what?
  Oh by the way, just received the Stillen DP.  It eliminates the front Cat
and the main cat and has provisions for O2 sensors which I can not find on
my 95s  stock D.P..  Its a beautiful unit, but I do not like messing with
the main cat.  Does anyone know if the check engine will come on w/o the
cats present?  \\\

Thanks.

Sam 95 VR4  K&N, HKS SSBOV, Stillen D.P., Greddy TT, APex AVCr
                         Perf. Friction Pads

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 16:20:00 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Sam Shelat'" <sshelat@erols.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Stillen DP
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 16:19:46 -0700
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Sam...

Actually, attempting to save space by combining subjects makes it messy for
those who want to respond to, or follow, the thread of only one topic.

At any rate, all three of my cats miraculously disappeared (for off-road use
only) and I've never seen a check engine light. It sounds to me like you got
a post 96 (and even some late 95s) downpipe, which has pre and post turbo O2
sensors (total of four, OBDCII). The majority of 95s and all earlier years
have only two O2 sensors, one per turbo. Get a couple threaded plugs and
you're in business.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Shelat [mailto:sshelat@erols.com]
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 11:45 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Fuel injectors, 4ws, and my new Stillen DP

<snip>
  Oh by the way, just received the Stillen DP.  It eliminates the front Cat
and the main cat and has provisions for O2 sensors which I can not find on
my 95s  stock D.P..  Its a beautiful unit, but I do not like messing with
the main cat.  Does anyone know if the check engine will come on w/o the
cats present?  \\\

Thanks.

Sam 95 VR4  K&N, HKS SSBOV, Stillen D.P., Greddy TT, APex AVCr
                         Perf. Friction Pads
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 19:29:58 1999
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Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 19:29:51 -0700
From: Raymond Yap <raymond.yap@stanford.edu>
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Subject: Team3S: greddy profec
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I've just got myself a 2nd hand greddy profec A, and am keen on
installing it myself. Can anybody tell me where I can pick up some
instructions on doing so ? Alternatively, can someone recommend a
peformance shop around the bay area where I can get it fixed up.

cheers,

Raymond.
'91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 21:47:48 1999
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From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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Anybody running the HKS in tank fuel pump?  I would like to know what
pressure it delivers to the fuel rail at idle and at positive boost.
Or, as they check it in the Service manual, at idle with and without the
FPR solenoid connected to the FPR.

Related question:  Do most after-market fuel pumps deliver a constant
flow rate to the fuel rail no matter what the rpm?  At idle, the FPR
allows most of the fuel to return to the fuel tank thus keeping rail
pressure down.  Then the FPR, when it senses boost, closes the return
line which causes the rail pressure to raise.  Correct these statements
if they're flawed.

Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 22:13:01 1999
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From: "Jose Soriano" <amahoser@linkline.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
References: <3.0.5.32.19991023103022.008e0100@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rebuilding calipers
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 22:03:43 -0700
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I rebuilt my calipers the last time I changed my pads. The rebuild kits come
with the rubber piston dust caps and the rubber piston o-ring seals. That's
it. They do not come with new pistons. If your pistons are far gone... you
might wanna get a set of rebuilt calipers. I'm not an expert on this but, if
the walls of you pistons are ok and the sctraches and gouges are not
affecting the seal, then you are probably ok... this is by you own jugement.
Take a look at the walls of the pistons and you can generally tell if its ok
or not. I purchased the rebuild kit from car parts store called Car Quest.

Good Luck
Jose Soriano
Amahoser@Linkline.com


----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 1999 8:30 AM
Subject: Team3S: Rebuilding calipers


> Can the front brake calipers on a 94 VR4 be rebuilt?
>
> I seem to have totally banged, scratched, and gouged the pistons, and I
> ruined several O-rings on my calipers from a dozen or more pad changes
this
> season. Is this something that can be done on the workbench or is it best
> left to a dealer? Is there a rebuilding kit?
>
> Even if I go to the Big Red, I still need to fix my old calipers.
>
> And while we're on the subject, any chance the front calipers would fit on
> the rear?...I can see a system with Big Red up front and the big front
> calipers on the rear. Might actually stop the furshlugginer car.
>
> Please advise.
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 22:43:29 1999
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From: "CEskelsen" <cesk@redrock.net>
To: "3000 list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Hein Coilover Struts
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 1999 23:32:06 -0600
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Hello all,
    I'm ready for a suspension upgrade.  I've heard that the Hein Coilovers
are an excellent upgrade.  Any other options?  After reading Turbo Mag and
seeing the Bee racing GTO with the HKS setup, I'm wondering if there is a
better choice.  Let me know what you think.

Cory Eskelsen
96 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 23 23:19:05 1999
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Thanx to all who responded.  Yesterday I did some long, hard braking,
including a set of three consecutive stops from 100 mph down to 30 mph
or so which had the brakes smoking and stinking (but not warping!).
Brake power was definitely improving the more stops I made (ie- ABS was
finally getting involved, even at 75+ mph with hot brakes).  I let them
cool off on the way home and took a look at the rotors.  Where they were
completely polished before, they now have dark concentric lines (no
grooving), and the pads have taken on a more reddish color.
Interesting.  Anyway, I hope stopping power continues to increase.

So my understanding at this point is that the improvement in braking can
be attributed to either pad badding/outgassing or enough wear on the
rotors to eliminate buildup of the previous pads' compound.

Why aren't pads sold pre-outgassed?  If that was indeed the real cause
of my dangerous situation, then I would think liability would be an
issue.

At any rate, be careful when you install new pads!  Make sure you have
full braking power before you need it!  Thanx again...

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 00:38:34 1999
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From: "Vineet Singh" <billi_gates@hotmail.com>
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Subject: Team3S: RE: No boost updates
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This is kinda for Ahmed, but also asking yall,

can't you just unbolt the water/oil lines to either turbo, undo the "C"
clamp around the housing, and pull the compressor and center-cartridge out
by themselves? This sounds much easier to do, and I know you can do it on
the talons and older supra's... Just wondering, cause soon I have to check
them myself (my oil/smoke problem).

I heard more backfires (not really backfires, more like "afterfires") after
gutting my precats and occasionally running a 2.5" testpipe. This became
MUCH worse with the DSM injectors (450cc) installed UNTIL I got my AFC
installed. Now the AFC is kinda set from -20%@1000 thru 0%@7000 linearly.
(high throttle).

The afterfires still happen once in a while, but not as often, nor as loud
(SOMETIMES they are really loud tho still :)

Vineet Singh - Ghetto style exhaust semi-cured.
Manuals On CD - http://manualcd.dsm.org
Club DSM A/T - http://at.dsm.org  -  "Never Lift To Shift!"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 03:47:30 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "3000GT / Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <3812BC67.28688E4A@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pressure
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:36:33 +0200
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> Anybody running the HKS in tank fuel pump?

HKS = Denso ... yes I do

> I would like to know what pressure it delivers to the fuel rail at idle
>  and at positive boost.

Ahem, fuel pressure is controlled by the pressure regulator.

> Or, as they check it in the Service manual, at idle with and without the
> FPR solenoid connected to the FPR.

Doesn't make sense to me. Fuel pressure is around 43psi at 0 psi boost and
rises as boost rises.

> Related question:  Do most after-market fuel pumps deliver a constant
> flow rate to the fuel rail no matter what the rpm?

The fuel pump is staged with a resistor that is switched off by a relay
activated by the ECU.

> At idle, the FPR allows most of the fuel to return to the fuel tank thus
keeping rail
> pressure down.  Then the FPR, when it senses boost, closes the return
> line which causes the rail pressure to raise.

The FPR is a linear device and therefore fuel pressure MUST not be lower
than a specific rate otherwise the injectors may want to spray more fuel
than available. This is why a minimum fuel pressure is available but the
flow is on a low level due to the pump slowed down to about 8V. The more the
change of the vaccum/boost to the FPR the more the fuel pressure changes.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 03:47:31 1999
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References: <003a01bf1de1$2fa2aaa0$920bc5d1@p9u2n5>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Hein Coilover Struts
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 12:38:25 +0200
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Never heard of "Hein" ... only "Tein" .... good stuff I heard but mucho $$$.

>     I'm ready for a suspension upgrade.  I've heard that the Hein
Coilovers
> are an excellent upgrade.  Any other options?

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 03:48:27 1999
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        Darcy Gunnlaugson <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all
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Noble, your PCs date is Sat, 26 Dec 1998 , please correct it !

> Does anyone have experience with other turbos?

I guess Brad Bedell made some temp measurments as well.

> I'm thinking Brian's BIG ass monster turbos (@GTPro) would work great;
> they'd only be working probably at about 40-50% efficiency though.

Why should they run at such a low efficiency ? Please explain ! I do have the
368s ready and unfortunately they will create much more lag but for sure the
discharge temperature would be freezing cold compared to the small turbos. This
is easy to be exlained, because the air flow is much more with the same amount
of boost and therefore the compressor wheel must not work like crazy and
therefore will stay on it's efficiency island.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 07:13:22 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 3si board
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:01:14 -0000
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Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives me
a big Forbidden message?
Is it just my server, or does everyone have this problem.  Happens at work
too!

Sam

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 07:22:13 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si board
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It seems that another organisation took over the URL and is building up
their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not answering on emails
too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is registered or the
other organisation dissapears. It is possible that you can access to the
pages with the IP address directly, but I don't have it.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives
me
> a big Forbidden message?
> Is it just my server, or does everyone have this problem.  Happens at work
> too!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 07:29:07 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Downpipe installation
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:16:59 -0000
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Do I need any extra parts like gaskets or something to put on the new
downpipe?  If the Stillen piece replaces the rear cat, how difficult is the
removal of the rear cat?  Do you start from the top or bottom?  I do not see
any bolts from underneath, just a metel shield.  Any help would be
appreciated.

Sam 95 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 07:43:05 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS SSBOV
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:30:57 -0000
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I installed this unit in about 30 minutes.  However, I tried to put the car
in reverse, and it was stuck.  It ends up the hose ran too low and was
hitting the cam for reverse gear.  I had to disconnect the bracket on the
BOV to fuse panel and just leave the unit sitting on top of the gap between
the fuse box and y-pipe.  It works very good, and does not make the car
stall like some people mentioned.  Turbo recovery is noticeable quicker.
The air coming off this thing must be very hot, cause it was untouchable for
about 15-20 minutes.  The car seems more responsive, but that is not
measured in any way, so its my opinion.  I heard people saying you need to
put the air back after the MAF to provide the correct ratio it measured
before.  Don't we want the car to run richer under more boost?  Wouldn't
recycling hot air be bad for power?  I am a little confused because everyone
says our cars run too rich already, yet we need to add fuel to run more
boost.  Just some thoughts, any opinions?


Sam 95 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 08:52:57 1999
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From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <01bf1ecf$dfc73060$d8b0accf@default> <006301bf1e2a$eba3bf20$cdebe6c2@rg>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si board
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 11:51:51 -0400
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Roger,

No one hijacked the domain (at least that's not what Eric said).  Big server
crash at Eric's web hosting company, thought it would be solved by now, but
maybe it was worse than they thought.

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under construction---------------
----- Original Message -----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si board


> It seems that another organisation took over the URL and is building up
> their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not answering on emails
> too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is registered or
the
> other organisation dissapears. It is possible that you can access to the
> pages with the IP address directly, but I don't have it.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> > Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives
> me
> > a big Forbidden message?
> > Is it just my server, or does everyone have this problem.  Happens at
work
> > too!
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 09:05:14 1999
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R.G. wrote:

>
> > I would like to know what pressure it delivers to the fuel rail at idle
> >  and at positive boost.
>
> Ahem, fuel pressure is controlled by the pressure regulator.
>
> > Or, as they check it in the Service manual, at idle with and without the
> > FPR solenoid connected to the FPR.
>
> Doesn't make sense to me. Fuel pressure is around 43psi at 0 psi boost and
> rises as boost rises.

Do you know what the peak pressure would be?  Roger, you may remember a datalog I sent
you last week showing a fluctuating O2 voltage in third gear at the upper rpms.  I now
believe it is fuel related.  I've watched fuel pressure during acceleration (17psi
boost) in third gear and see that during WOT, the pressure spikes up to ~51psi (3.5
bars) and then slowly drops as rpm rises.  I then feel the hesitation.  I thought the
Denso pump was suppose to deliver and hold ~60psi during boost.  I suspect the FPR is
faulty and isn't closing off the return line.

BTW - the service manual check for the FPR is to measure fuel pressure at idle with and
without the solenoid vacuum line connected to the FPR.  For a stock turbo car the
resultant pressures are suppose to be as follows:

idle: 235kPa (34psi)
idle with vacuum hose removed from FPR: 295-315kPa (43-45psi)

With a Denso pump, I'm not sure what values I should be seeing, I'd assume higher than
listed above.  I need to first understand whether my fuel system is delivering the
appropriate rail pressure.  If not, I'll focus on the FPR, FPR Solenoid, fuel filter,
vacuum lines/wiring, and the pump itself.  I wouldn't mind getting my RC injectors
rebalanced either.

Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski
'92 R/T TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 09:11:16 1999
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To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si board
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 09:10:26 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Sam Shelat <sshelat@erols.com>
>>Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it
gives me
>>a big Forbidden message?
>>Is it just my server, or does everyone have this problem.  Happens
at work
>>too!
>
-----Original Message-----From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
>It seems that another organisation took over the URL and is
building up
>their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not answering on
emails
>too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is
registered or the
>other organisation dissapears. It is possible that you can access
to the
>pages with the IP address directly, but I don't have it.


Eric sent me an email last night...

It's only a temporary technical glitch, centered with the ISP that
hosts the domain.  The www.3Si.org domain has not changed, nor
changed hands, but the current ISP has some of its 'wires crossed'
and can't seem to pinpoint the problem.  To further complicate
things, Eric can't access via FTP either, so he can't move the
website to a new ISP, which he is planning to do ASAP.

Stay tuned for details...  We'll post a more complete "Admin Alert"
with an update as soon as we have more information.

Best,

Forrest



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 11:18:37 1999
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Sam Shelat wrote:

> anyone know if Supra (MK4) 550cc injectors work on our cars?

No.  They are "side port", get fuel on SIDE of injector; ours and
most others are "top port" and get fuel from top of inj.
Supras upgrading injectors have to change their fuel rail also, HKS
makes upgrade fuelrail for like $340...ugh...this lets them use the
more standard top port inj of higher capacity out there.

Jack Tertadian


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 11:53:12 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "3000GT / Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <3812BC67.28688E4A@mediaone.net> <001c01bf1e0c$eb77c8c0$cdebe6c2@rg> <38135B2D.7993C71C@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel Pressure
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 20:50:54 +0200
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> Do you know what the peak pressure would be?

Easy : at 0 psi FP is about 43 psi (like the hose disconnected from the FPR)
at 15 psi 43 + 17 = 60 psi

> I now believe it is fuel related.  I've watched fuel pressure during
acceleration (17psi
> boost) in third gear and see that during WOT, the pressure spikes up to
~51psi (3.5
> bars) and then slowly drops as rpm rises.  I then feel the hesitation.  I
thought the
> Denso pump was suppose to deliver and hold ~60psi during boost.  I suspect
the FPR is
> faulty and isn't closing off the return line.

Umpf, you may try to get an FPR from the NA but I dunno how well it works
under boost (out of it's specs !) Our stock fuel pump (also a Denso, 190
ltr/hr) is only able to flow around 32 gal/hr at 60psi. In reality it's more
as these values are the worst case in production. In comparison, the Walbro
"high pressure" fuel pump is able to flow 52gal/hr at the same fuel
pressure. I dunno what fuel pump you are using as well how rich you are
running. At 80% IDC with the 550cc you may flow up to 48 gal/hr, way too
much for the stock fuel pump. Assuming you are cooling the chamber with fuel
you are running around 44 gal/hr flow at around 58 psi. The fuel pumps
(Walbro) are rated to 255l/hr at around 41 psi and can deliver enough then.

> With a Denso pump, I'm not sure what values I should be seeing, I'd assume
higher than
> listed above.  I need to first understand whether my fuel system is
delivering the
> appropriate rail pressure.  If not, I'll focus on the FPR, FPR Solenoid,
fuel filter,
> vacuum lines/wiring, and the pump itself.  I wouldn't mind getting my RC
injectors
> rebalanced either.

Depending on the pump, I'd say the fuel filter needs to be checked if it was
not changed lately. A faulty FPR lowers the pressure even more but its also
worth looking at. Remember, the values we are getting fro mthe ECU is what
it is trying to do. This is why we can read more than 100% IDC with the
stock injectors. Of course they will then just stay fully open. This of
course is not the case with your injectors.

Reading 51 psi may be low compared to the calculated 58 psi and I have not
yet been able to read fuel pressure on my car. Therefore others input would
help to determine if you're running into fuel starvation.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 11:59:00 1999
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Message-ID: <0.d00d902.2544b0d7@aol.com>
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 14:58:31 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Manifold Vacuum
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com (3000GT / Stealth List)
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Has anyone checked their manifold vacuum lately?  My car runs great, but runs
consistently one or two mm/hg below the specs in the service manual.  I am
interesting in hearing what other's vacuum readings are.

    Thanks!

Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 13:08:17 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Downpipe installation
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> Do I need any extra parts like gaskets or something to put on the new
> downpipe?

You need new exhaust gaskets on any flange as the stock ones are gone. Also
get new nuts too because I just lost one that didn't held anymore after
taking it off and on thr 6th time.

> If the Stillen piece replaces the rear cat, how difficult is the
> removal of the rear cat?

No, it doesn't replace the rear one. This is why I recommend to gut the rear
one when putting it on. Otherwise you are having different packpressure on
the front and rear turbo. It is not known what this may cause but I do not
like "unbalanced" systems ! Removing the rear precat is a super-mega-pain in
the ass.

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 13:08:17 1999
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References: <01bf1ed4$05df8d20$d8b0accf@default>
Subject: Re: Team3S: HKS SSBOV
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> I installed this unit in about 30 minutes.  However, I tried to put the
car
> in reverse, and it was stuck.

Yep, you are having a second gen and the kit doesn't fit without
modification.

> BOV to fuse panel and just leave the unit sitting on top of the gap
between
> the fuse box and y-pipe.

You must mount it to something as the flange of the HKS BOV is not very good
and if it hits something from time to time it may got damaged.

>  It works very good, and does not make the car stall like some people
mentioned.

Well, it does but on what boost are you running ? And is it adjusted
properly ? This was always my problem until I foudn out that it started to
open at 14 psi and I lost pressure due to this. After readjusting it never
worked properly anymore :-( Of course it was the 1st gen and not the new
SSBOV, although it's about the same plastic BOV under the aluminum body.

>  I heard people saying you need to put the air back after the MAF to
provide
> the correct ratio it measured before.  Don't we want the car to run richer
under
> more boost?

This is already the case !

>  Wouldn't recycling hot air be bad for power?

Sure, but if the turbos are already running extremely out of its range and
are producing way too much hot air, recycling this hot air back is not doing
much more bad. Also the air is sent back during the closed throttle
situation.

> I am a little confused because everyone says our cars run too rich
already, yet we
> need to add fuel to run more boost.

Ahem, what exactly is the question ? We need fuel to fight against the knock
and this is more than really needed for the power.

Hope this helps,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 13:24:10 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Manifold Vacuum
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 22:21:54 +0200
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> Has anyone checked their manifold vacuum lately?  My car runs great, but
runs
> consistently one or two mm/hg below the specs in the service manual.  I am
> interesting in hearing what other's vacuum readings are.

This depends on the temperature and humidity as well as idleing or rolling
the car out. The boost meters are not very consistent as the at idle
(850rpm) DSBC reads 44cm/Hg, the Dual Timer 43cm/Hg and the meter 46cm/Hg.
The manual say 45cm/Hg and therefore it's in the limits. I'd be worried if
your readings are more than 40cm/Hg or less than 50cm/Hg.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 14:18:42 1999
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To: robby@swissonline.ch, Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all
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There is such thing as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make the turbo more
efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same theory. Check this out;
http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
My Ty only turns 2100-4300 RPM and maxes out at 16 psi on pump gas. The turbo on the
right would never reach it's peak efficiency and is too large for my application....The
stock turbo on the left is much too small.
Yes I'd probably be better off for straight drag racing running the too large turbo vs.
the stocker but if there's a turbo in between I bet I'd run faster and have less lag!

Trevor
96 R/T TT 12.68@111.4 0-60 4.14 Gtech (15g's are going in this week)
92 GMC Typhoon 14.10@97.4 0-60 5.34 Gtech

"R.G." wrote:

> Noble, your PCs date is Sat, 26 Dec 1998 , please correct it !
>
> > Does anyone have experience with other turbos?
>
> I guess Brad Bedell made some temp measurments as well.
>
> > I'm thinking Brian's BIG ass monster turbos (@GTPro) would work great;
> > they'd only be working probably at about 40-50% efficiency though.
>
> Why should they run at such a low efficiency ? Please explain ! I do have the
> 368s ready and unfortunately they will create much more lag but for sure the
> discharge temperature would be freezing cold compared to the small turbos. This
> is easy to be exlained, because the air flow is much more with the same amount
> of boost and therefore the compressor wheel must not work like crazy and
> therefore will stay on it's efficiency island.
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
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> There is such thing as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make the
turbo more
> efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same theory. Check this
out;
> http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm

I've already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b / 13g
compressor wheels. Anyone ?

> My Ty only turns 2100-4300 RPM and maxes out at 16 psi on pump gas. The
turbo on the
> right would never reach it's peak efficiency and is too large for my
application.

Why do you think it is too large ? When running 20psi at 5000 you are at
around 75% what is good. Ok, the efficiency areas are thin and for the low
end power it would be better to have the 70% island also in the 3500 like
the small one. I htink it's not the size but the design of the wheel. What
if the bigger wheel would be clipped ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 17:21:38 1999
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From: Raymond Yap <raymond.yap@stanford.edu>
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Subject: Team3S: Apexi AFC
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I just picked up an Apexi AFC (not the latest one) and plugged it in my
VR-4. Can anybody advice me on how to tune it effectively so that I
don't melt my engine in the process ? And what would be a conservative
setting on the various RPMs that I could start with ?

raymond.
'91 vr-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 17:36:01 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
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"R.G." wrote:

> > There is such thing as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make the
> turbo more
> > efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same theory. Check this
> out;
> > http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
>
> I've already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b / 13g
> compressor wheels. Anyone ?
>
> > My Ty only turns 2100-4300 RPM and maxes out at 16 psi on pump gas. The
> turbo on the
> > right would never reach it's peak efficiency and is too large for my
> application.
>
> Why do you think it is too large ? When running 20psi at 5000 you are at
> around 75% what is good. Ok, the efficiency areas are thin and for the low
> end power it would be better to have the 70% island also in the 3500 like
> the small one. I htink it's not the size but the design of the wheel. What
> if the bigger wheel would be clipped ?
>
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

It's too large because I'm only going to run 16 psi and the stock shift point is around
4300 RPM. I'm never going to even get into its best efficiency range. This turbo is
optimized at 18 psi with 5400 rpm shifts.

I just wanted to make a comparison of how a large turbo could possibly not be
beneficial. I really believe that the 368+ turbos are too large for street use. Physics
says it takes more energy to spin up a large compressor wheel. Those things are HUGE!!!
I know, they have ball bearings....and the turbine wheel is supposed to be soooo
efficient. It's only 1.5 liters of air trying to turn them. The 368 is the size of the
garrett 850 cfm turbos we use in the sy/ty (TE-44) world and they're good for 500 HP
easy. That's one turbo with 4.3L of exhaust driving it. I don't see why we need TWO
turbos that size on the 3000/Stealth unless you're doing the silver state classic with
110 Octane!!!

Trevor
96 R/T TT
92 GMC Typhoon

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 19:28:20 1999
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Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 19:26:43 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SL/VR4 Caliper Clearance
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Oskar,

Oskar wrote:

> Errin - if you're after caliper to rim measurements for a 2nd gen VR-4 I
> think you cannot compare to a Stealth TT.  As recently discovered by Mike
> Chapelski it appears that the Stealth TT calipers are somewhat wider that
> the VR-4 counterpart.

Interesting.  Thanks for pointing that out.

> In case you still need it, my '95 R/T TT with 18" factory chrome wheels
> measure 7 mm between the outer edge of the caliper and the inside of the
> rim.

Thanks for the information, however I don't think I'll be able to use it.
You see, I need somebody to give me the rotor to caliper edge distance
for an SL so that I can compare to the distance on my VR4.  Why?  I
ordered some new wheels which somebody tried on a 96 SL and they
said they fit with a decent amount of distance.  I ordered these wheels
for my VR4, and I want to figure out the margin of difference between
the caliper size (how far they stick out from the rotor) on an SL and
on a VR4.  This will let me know which size spacer I will probably need
to use (I'll already gain 8mm clearance from a lower offset).

Thanks for the help!

--Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 19:39:56 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Someone w/ SL please help
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Maybe you missed my earlier post: "SL/VR4 Caliper Clearance."
Maybe my post was a bit unclear.

If you have a 3000GT SL could you PLEASE do the following? ...

1) Take a ruler and another small ruler (or something small and straight).

2) Go to one of your car's front wheels.

3) Put the ruler's end straight against the brake rotor, near the caliper.

4) Use the other small ruler (or straight thingie) and hold it against the
side of the caliper, perpendicular to the other ruler.

5) Read the point where they touch.  This will give the distance from
the brake rotor to the farthest out point on the brake caliper.

I don't need a really accurate measurement, just a ballpark figure in
inches or millimeters.

For reference sake, on a '94 3000GT VR4 the distance from the
surface of the rotor to the farthest out point on the brake caliper
(edge of the Mitsubishi lettering on the caliper) is about 2.25 inches.

I need to know a ballpark figure for how much thinner the SL calipers
are compared to the VR4 calipers because I have ordered some
wheels which somebody says fit on an SL but they aren't sure about
a VR4.  This will let me know the size of spacer I might have to order.

It would probably help if your 3000GT SL is second-gen (like the
one which tried on the wheels) since I'm not sure if there is a difference
in caliper size between 1st and 2nd gen SL calipers.

I really appreciate some help here.

--Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 21:04:55 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Someone w/ SL please help
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OK, I'm not sure if I have the correct measurement yer asking for, but here
goes :).  I have a '95 3000GT Base, which should be the same as the SL, with
the exception of the ABS.  So for this measurement that might make a
differenct :).  I'm not to up on all my technical terminology with cars, so
lemme ask now what the calipers are just to clairfy I did this right.  I
know what the rotors are, and I'm assuming that the calipers are what hold
the brake pads and actually squeeze them against the rotor right?  If this
is correct, then what I just did was take a small piece of paper, held it
perpendicular to the rotor, then took a pencil, laid it flat against the
farthest out piece of the caliper, and marked the paper.  I then came in and
measured the distance from the edge of the paper that was against the rotor
to the mark made by the pencil.  My result was 1 and 3/8 inches, which
converts to 34.925 mm.

again, dunno if this is what yer looking for, but I tried :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 21:20:18 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Dumb Question, but curious
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Hello all,
    Recently I took the front license plate off my 93 Stealth RT, now
that plate is required in my state so hush-hush.  I know from people
I've seen on the road that it's not unusual at all.
    The real question, not to get my or anybody elses hopes up, but I
can't help but wonder how well a police officer can get a radar signal
off of this car.  From my experience in another car club, and
information an ex-military man was able to give me on how radar requires
a very specific reflection, it does make you wonder.

Anybody know?  Anyone put a gun to it and found out?  I'm not relying on
it yet, but it'd be interesting to know what y'all think,

--Rich

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Oct 24 21:45:21 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dumb Question, but curious
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 23:04:24 -0500
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Well from my understanding on the way police radar works is that it doesn't
take a very specific 'signature' or profile of your vehicle, it just relies
on the doppler shift on the signal to calculate the speed.  The way all
police radar guns work (except laser of course :) is they scan the area, and
then show what the strongest signal returned was on the readout.  Hence why
if your traveling in a pack of cars, and a cop clocks the pack, he has to
determine (or rather GUESS) which car was doing the returned speed.  One
fact to note though is that big vehicles (trucks in other words) will ALWAYS
return the strongest signal no matter what.  So if a trucks doing 50, and
you zip buy at 80, he'll get a 50 reading because the trucks return signal
is much stronger.  This is another reason why you should always ask to see
the gun reading for yourself when they pull you over (I've heard of cops
trying to pull a fast one where they didn't even clock you at all).  If they
refuse, you make them write that on the ticket and point that one out to the
judge :).

another little trick of note that I read in Car and Driver a long ways back
on ways to defeat laser radar when they were first introduced.  One method
they came up with and tested is to put an extremely high candle-watt powered
light (like the ones the cops use) on the front of your car near the lisence
plate (because that's where they aim their laser guns due to the lisence
plates highly reflective surface).  Aim it forward, and then put an
infra-red filter on it (so it blocks all spectrum of light except ir).  This
won't defeat a laser radar gun, but it will confuse it for a while giving
you more time to slow down if you have a laser radar detector (like buy an
additional 2- 4seconds depending upon distance).  They way they described
how this works is imagine walking into a gymnasium full of people.  You're
on one side, and a friend is across all the people on the other.  If
everybodie is quite, you can hear each other fine, but when everybody's
talking, you'll be lucky if you can pick out a word or two from your friend.
That's what the light with the filter does.  You're flooding the area with
tons of extra ir light therefore confusing the gun as two which signal was
the original 'bounce', so it takes it a while longer to get the reading thus
giving you the extra time to slow down :).  The other great thing is it's
perfectly legal because with the filter, the light will appear off because
no regular light will emmit from it at all, and it's not illegal to emit
light :).

Anyways, just a little bit of info for ya :)


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 00:42:56 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Apexi AFC
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:43:34 +0200
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> I just picked up an Apexi AFC (not the latest one) and plugged it in my
> VR-4. Can anybody advice me on how to tune it effectively so that I
> don't melt my engine in the process ? And what would be a conservative
> setting on the various RPMs that I could start with ?

This depends on the injectors you are running. With stock injectors, the AFC should not be used. Also, you need an A/F meter and even better an EGR to tune any fuel device. The best would be a logging device.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 01:36:18 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Apexi AFC
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Yes, you'll need an EGT or (preferably AND) a datalogger to tune it
properly.  Also, it's best not to use it until you can tune it in right,
since the "zero" on each RPM range is not exactly stock.  It does change it
a little.  Alot in the case of DSMs.  I've seen a car that ran normal
without the AFC not even be able to idle at the zero setting once the AFC
was installed.

Noah Erickson
http://home.sprintmail.com/~noaherickson/
>=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=<->=/\=<->=<->=<->=<->=<-
1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 # 1954                    _\/_
      Tsymyn on irc.dsm.org  #dsm                         /_/\_\  ICQ#
29810261




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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 01:52:14 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Apexi AFC
References: <01bf1ecf$dfc73060$d8b0accf@default> <3813A28E.82834C47@stanford.edu> <000d01bf1ebc$ab72dde0$898783d8@peoplesoft.com> <000901bf1ec4$070a44c0$f390fea9@piii600>
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> Also, it's best not to use it until you can tune it in right,
> since the "zero" on each RPM range is not exactly stock.  It does change it
> a little.  Alot in the case of DSMs.

This is not a problem on the 3S cars. I checked the frequency output as well as
the voltage level and with the proper car selected were no problem (I had it on
the car for a year). Please note increasing the amount of fuel with stock
injectors will cause early fuel cut. Leaning it out will cause knock. Therefore,
install it if you have larger injectors.

Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 07:13:28 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: VR4 AWD Torque Split ACTUAL
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:13:19 -0500
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> Matt, where did you see any reports to the contrary?  That is
> bad info, hate to let that get
> into people's minds because it will be a myth from then on...

I believe it was in Road and Track in late '93 when they had an article on the updated 3000/Stealth.  They stated that the transmission had been revised and Mitsu adjusted the torque split to 45/55 from 40/60 to try to make the car less "tail-happy" in winter conditions.  I'll try to locate the article, but it is currently stored away "somewhere".  I very specifically remember reading that statement several times over, as I was trying to determine if I wanted a '93 or '94 VR4 at the time and was trying to figure out all the differences between the years.

Of course, Road and Track is never* wrong.  ;-)  If they were wrong and I passed on bad info, I sincerely apologize.

Ran a 13.2 yesterday at Rock Falls with fairly relaxed launches, which isn't too bad, considering I don't have a lot done to the car yet.  I'm going to be trying to decide which turbos to go with for next summer, either 13G or 15G.  I don't want to sacrifice drivability and quick spoolup though, as I occasionally autocross the car and don't drag race often.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

Borla exhaust, Alamo downpipe, high-flow cat, HKS EVC IV, Spearco water injection, Magnacore wires, K&N
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 07:20:15 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel injectors, 4ws, and my new Stillen DP
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:19:41 -0500
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> Also, one member stated that 95 and 96 TT do not have AWS. 
> This is not what it says in my manual or in the specs of
> the car.  Is this guy mistaken or what?

'95-'96 Stealth TT doesn't have it, VR4's have it all years.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 07:33:07 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Alert:  Problems at www.3Si.org
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 07:31:34 -0700
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To all--

The ISP that hosts the domain continues to have serious (but
temporary) technical problems.  The www.3Si.org domain has not
changed, nor changed hands, but the current ISP has some of its
'wires crossed' and can't seem to pinpoint the problem.  To further
complicate things, Eric can't access via FTP either, so he can't
move the website to a new ISP, which he is planning to do ASAP.  The
problem is actively being worked on, and we'll post another note as
updates become available.

The Admins


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 09:39:58 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 4ws
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 11:39:27 CDT
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Sam,

I was the one that said the 95-96 TTs did not have AWS.  But remember this
is ONLY on the Stealths.  The 3000GTs always has AWS.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
>To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S: Fuel injectors, 4ws, and my new Stillen DP
>Date: Sun, 24 Oct 1999 18:44:59 -0000
>
>Also, one member stated that 95 and 96 TT do not have AWS.  This is not
>what
>it says in my manual or in the specs of the car.  Is this guy mistaken or
>what?

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 09:55:29 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dumb Question, but curious
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:55:11 -0700
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> The way all police radar guns work is they
> scan the area, and then show what the strongest signal
> returned was on the readout.  Hence why if your traveling
> in a pack of cars, and a cop clocks the pack, he has to
> determine (or rather GUESS) which car was doing the returned
> speed. 

True enough....except for one subtlety.

> One fact to note though is that big vehicles (trucks in other
> words) will ALWAYS return the strongest signal no matter what.
>  So if a trucks doing 50, and you zip buy at 80, he'll get a
> 50 reading because the trucks  return signal is much stronger.
>  This is another reason why you should  always ask to see
> the gun reading for yourself when they pull you over

I've got a few friends who are cops, one of whom regularly patrols I-5 on a
bike.  When he shoots his radar gun at a pack of cars/trucks, he generally
gets a reading from the strongest signal (largest object).  BUT (especially
if there is a substantial speed difference between the slowest and fastest
vehicle), he quite often gets an oscillating readout.  So, in the case you
mention, he'd get a 50 signal with blips at 80. (i.e.
50...50...80...50...50...80...80) If there aren't any other cars (going
fast)in the area and he can see you're going considerably faster than the
truck, then consider yourself nailed.  And it will stick in court, at least
in WA.  And that stuff about having to see the gun... well, that only serves
to tick the cop off, which is one thing you don't want in court.  Fair or
not, they don't have to show you the gun, nor does it have to say your speed
on it (i.e. in the 50/80 case above).  I don't like it, either...from my
personal experience and talking with some officers, the best thing to do is
be honest, say "Yes, sir.  I understand, sir." a lot, and ask them for some
leniency BEFORE they write the ticket:)

--Erik

P.S. one other thing that I've been told may help, especially if you're
pulled over at night is:  roll the window down before the cop walks up, keep
both hands on the wheel as he talks to you, and when he asks for your
license and registration, tell him what you're doing (i.e. registration is
in the glove box, you have to get it...license is in your back pocket...)
That shows the cop that you have some respect for the position he's in as
far as not having to worry about what you're doing with that hand that's
outta sight or whether you're reaching for your registration or a glock
under that passenger seat.  Any brownie points you can get will help
tremendously. 

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (base, DOHC, 5-speed)        62,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-------------------------------------------------------------

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 09:58:54 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: 3si board
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 09:59:58 -0700
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Now im confused.

If _our_ people own the registration, whats the problem?

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Sunday, October 24, 1999 7:20 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si board


It seems that another organisation took over the URL and is building up
their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not answering on emails
too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is registered or the
other organisation dissapears. It is possible that you can access to the
pages with the IP address directly, but I don't have it.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

> Does anyone know why every time I try to log on to www.3si.org, it gives
me
> a big Forbidden message?
> Is it just my server, or does everyone have this problem.  Happens at work
> too!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 10:22:27 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:22:13 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Welcome Rich,

> Hello all, new to the car and I'm hearing that one of my struts is
> leaking, and I'm worried about cost mainly.  I have a 93 R/T TT, and
> when I quickly inquired to a friend from a tire store he recalled
> Cadillac's electronic struts running round $500?  Same deal?  Ack!
> Thanks in advance,

The first thing you need to know about this car is where you can get factory
parts at discount prices.  There are several dealers whose names keep popping
up.  They are Mitsu dealers, but most parts are identical on the Stealth.  Try
the one closest to you and ask for the internet 3SI discount:

Tallahassee Mitsubishi, FL: 888-825-5648, http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/
Norco Mitsubishi, CA: (888) 689-1788, http://www.norcomits.com/
Rockland Mitsubishi, NY: 914-353-2100

I purchased 4 ECS (electronically controlled) struts earlier this year for about
$540.  I then installed them myself and had an alignment done.  If you are a
do-it-yourselfer, let me know and I'll send you the instructions.  Otherwise,
you should be able to find a local shop to do the install and alignment for
$120-$200.

Good luck,
Ken

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 10:38:00 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>,
        "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 3si board
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>>-----Original Message----->From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
>>It seems that another organisation took over the URL and is
building up
>>their service on it. Unfortunately, Eric Lotter is not answering
on emails
>>too. AFAIK, www.3si.org is dead until either a new name is
registered or the
>>other organisation dissapears. It is possible that you can access
to the
>>pages with the IP address directly, but I don't have it.
>
-----Original Message-----From: Mohler, Jeff
<jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
>Now I'm confused.
>If _our_ people own the registration, whats the problem?


The problem is with the ISP's server having it's wires crossed.
Although it *appeared* that way to members trying to access the
site, no one took over the URL;  but another unrelated site IS
coming up when trying to access 3Si.org because of the server
glitch.  Further, the ISP is taking it's time correcting the
problem, which is why an ISP switch is imminent, WHEN the files can
be downloaded.  Right now, even FTP to the site is unavailable.  An
unbelievable SNAFU, which we hope will be remedied shortly.

Email privately with any other questions, or watch for updates to be
posted here from the Admins.

Best,

Forrest
Admin, Team3S



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 11:00:19 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: "'Matthews'" <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
        "'W. Buckingham'"
<wbuckingham@dmci.net>
Subject: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Update
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 10:59:55 -0700
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Over the weekend, I had several requests for an update on the lash adjuster
ticking problem.

For those of you who don't remember or haven't decoded the acronyms in my
sig, here's what I did:


1) Arty's cleaning method (MMO)
- nothing changed right away
2) BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner
- nothing changed right away
3) GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change
- intermittent afterwards
4) Fresh oil (not filter) change
- gone

MMO is Marvel Mystery Oil (not to be confused with snake oil:)
BG 44K is a fuel injector cleaner that I got at my dealer.
GM EOS is General Motors Engine Oil Supplement (Mitsu or GM dealer)

I started Arty's MMO method in June, when ticking was regular, loud,
and annoying.  I hated going though drive thrus!  I completed the 4 steps
above in July.  It's October now, and I have had NO lash adjuster ticking
when the engine is warm. 
The only times I've heard ticking (other than the normal fuel
injector ticking) are occasionally when I first start it up after it sat for
a while.  Evidently this is semi-normal, and the FSM even mentions it.  As
soon as I blip the revs above idle (2000 RPM or so), it goes away for good.
I can probably count on one hand the number of times this has occurred since
July.
The last oil change I did was at about 2500mi instead of 2000 (I was
busy:)  I may try going to oil every 2500, filter every 5000 and see what
that does.  I don't like forking over the $ for Mobil 1 that often, but I
guess in the grand scheme of things, $25 every 3 to 4 months isn't too bad.
BTW, after 3000mi, the oil in my engine is pretty darned black!
That's why I tried shortening the intervals...  I would've thought that
running synthetic would help it not get so black so quick.  I usually drain
out just under 4qts (w/filter) and end up putting in 4.25-4.5 qts, so I
guess it's using a little oil.  I've *never* seen any blue smoke, and the
car runs like a champ, so it's never concerned me.  Does this sound normal
to y'all?  Is the black oil just because it's a fairly high compression
engine with a high redline and pretty high temps?  (well, not as high as you
TT guys:) 
Also, one theory as to the lash adjuster ticking:  now that I think
about it, the more frequent ticking began soon after I accidentally let the
car go almost 5000miles without changing the oil (I know, I know, bad Erik).
Anyway, I'm thinking that maybe some dirt or other crap in the dirty oil
made its way into the lash adjusters and partially clogged the oil
entrance/exit.  This would make the ticking intermittent, and loud when the
lash adjusters got clogged (they don't work if they're oil-starved, right?)
Perhaps it took a while to get all the junk out of them and now that I'm
making sure my oil is pretty darned clean it hasn't come back....   well, my
thoughts anyway.

--Erik

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT (NA, DOHC, 5-speed)          62,000 mi
Firestone Firehawk 245/50/ZR16 tires, stock wheels
Magnacor KV85 spark plug wires, NGK plugs @ 0.040"
K&N FIPK (57-1500), resonator intact
Mobil 1 10W30 Synthetic w/ OEM oil filter
***No more ticking lash adjusters!  Treated with GM EOS, BG
   44K FI cleaner. Change oil every 2000mi, filter 4000mi ***
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 12:27:23 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Update
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:27:14 -0500
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> 1) Arty's cleaning method (MMO)
> - nothing changed right away
> 2) BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner
> - nothing changed right away
> 3) GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change
> - intermittent afterwards
> 4) Fresh oil (not filter) change
> - gone

I had really bad lifters that would tick anywhere below 2,000 RPM and really* bad at idle.  I changed oil and filter, using a Mitsu filter and Mobil 0W30 synthetic.  I ran the thin oil for the full 3000 miles, and then switched to Mobil 10W30 synthetic and the ticking was solved.  It'll occasionally do it at idle after the car has been idling for some time, but overall the problem is solved.

The 0W30 washes the crud out of the lifters, while still supplying a high enough viscosity to protect bearings from wear.  I read about this process on the DSM List.  Seems to work fine.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 13:07:54 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: End of the season #'s
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:06:34 -0500
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Well, I was half expecting that Curt would have already posted to the list
by now (well, maybe he has and I just haven't gotten it yet, sometimes our
servers our slow), but the MN3S club went to the track yesterday for some
year end results.

I haven't had my Stealth on the track since I bought it.  I took it to the
track in April with the stock air cleaner (and I'm sure orig. filter, by the
look of it), original plugs, wires, etc.. I managed a best of 13.797 @
98.25MPH.

This past summer the car received a K&N Aircharger, new plugs gapped at
.032", Magnecore wires, a Blitz DSBC, a test pipe, gutted pre-cats, and the
Spearco 980 water injection system.  With all of this I was shooting for
12's.  12.999 would have been enough to put a smile on my face.  The result
of all of this work:  12.855 @ 107.33MPH  all for less than $1k.  I'm happy.

Curt, who was also shooting for 12's with almost the same mods (different
air filter, clutch, and exhaust), finally got his 12's too, at get this:
12.855 @107.41  :-)

We don't like Oskar anymore, he showed us up with a 12.67x.  he drives to
well, we're kicking him out of the club!  :-) (J/K, we love ya' Oskar!)

Anyway... Thanks to everyone on this list who provided me with feedback and
insight I played with my toy.  I have accomplished my goal with it.  Now I
have to turn my attention to another car (don't ask, it's not pretty), and I
have the same goal: 12's.

Thanks again all,

John Basol
'95 Stealth RT/TT ---> finally in the 12's!  :-)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 13:59:45 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: More news on the laser radar gun thingy
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 15:19:42 -0500
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Hello all,

I appologize if this is considered off-topic, but it is technical :).  I've
gotten a few emails about this already, and figured I'd post this.  I asked
my bud hows a physics major (yet he programs video games, go figure ;)p,
about where to get the equipment needed for this and he had some good info.
So I'm just posting his reply back to me.

-------------snip-----------------

> Hey stud, Remember in high school when you went out and bought a
> really high candle-watt powered light (like the kinds the cops use)?
> Just curious if ya could tell me where I could pick up one of those
> (like what kind of stores)?


Wal-mart does, I think.  The one I had back then was 200,000 candlepower.
They now have 500,000 and even 1,000,000 candlepower versions.  Get the
1 million.  ;-)


> Also, any ideas on where i could possibly pick up an ir
> filter for that light (something to filter out all the light but the ir
> spectrum)? I've been talking with some people on the 3000GT/Stealth news
> mailing and mentioned a something in an old Car and Driver on defeating
> laser radar guns and some people have asked where they could possibly come
> across these two items :). You being the physics prof. ;)p, I thought
> would ask ya. Any ideas? Latufh fuh U,


You can't just use any IR filter.  You need to find out what light
frequency the cops' IR guns use (wild guess?  around 350nm) and get
a filter for that frequency.  ie, one that filters out all visible
light (~380nm - ~700nm) but leaves the IR light to pass through.

I have no idea where to buy these.  I'm sure a careful web search can
turn up a few pages that sell 'em online, though...

-------------snip-----------------

Hope this helps for those that are intersted.

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 14:46:05 1999
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From: "Sam Shelat" <sshelat@erols.com>
To: "team3s" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Magazine and reviewers
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 17:33:45 -0000
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They do not always give accurate info.  I have read an Edmunds report on our
4ws system and they compare it to the old Hondas and how it does not help
high speed turning.  They claimed our 4ws is opposite phase when in fact it
is same phase and does not even work at low speeds.  Take everything these
magazines say or do with a little skepticism, because they can be wrong.

Sam

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 14:52:56 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: team3s <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: AWS Modifications?
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:53:55 -0700
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Question:

Is there a way to enable AWS at low speeds?

A jumper, confuse the 'brain' etc?

Just wondering.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 14:53:35 1999
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        Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Message: 3Si board up again
References: <000401be30b4$007a1580$82159a8e@default> <3812E34B.A3AD6607@swissonline.ch> <381377F1.EC7C7F9A@kscable.com> <008201bf1e6e$c948f1e0$efcbe6c2@rg> <3813A658.3A694EE@kscable.com>
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The ISP has hopefully solved their problems.

Roger, for the Admins
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 14:54:15 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: team3s <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: backfiring..etc
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 14:55:08 -0700
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When we had a 92 StealthTT, and we removed all the cats, we found/enjoyed the
occasional backfiring issue others have.

Question is..is this harmful, normal..??
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 15:27:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:14:19 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject: Team3S: So long
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All,

It has been great being on this list. I have enjoyed the technical
discussion and have learned one helluva lot about modern computer
controlled engines. (I'll never own a carb'ed car again!)

But, I have now purchased a chassis and body for a Ford GT40 replicar
and the demands of parts searching, purchasing, construction and that
pesky thing called my job are just not allowing me time to keep up with
the list.  For those interested in the conglomeration of parts that will
ultimately yield a finished car the major components are:

Engine - Ford 5.0L  hold the boos and hisses; there is some amount of
history and tradition I must maintain here and performance parts are
plentiful and cheap. Also see comment on weight below.

Transaxle/clutch - Porsche G50, preferably a G50-50 but they are really
hard to find. For those purists that are saying, "I  thought the GT40
used a ZF transaxle?" technically the Porsche transaxle is made by ZF.
It is just a more modern unit that a much larger number of people can
work on. The later big block GT40s used a special T44 Ford transaxle and
there is a guy in Charlotte, NC making these, but he wants $25-30K for
them. I don't think so....! He also is building real, part-for-part
interchangable GT40s for around $3-400K a copy. I'll send his email
address if anyone is interested ;-)

Upright/brake assemblies are Corvette - been known for poor braking, but
I'll only be stopping 2K lbs., not a Vette which ways as much, or more,
than our cars. Steering is the typical Mustang II rack and pinion that
is used in 90% of the kit cars. Suspension is very similar to original.

Chassis is built by the guy that owns Sabre Automotive, John Donnelly,
He bought out KVA which was owned by Ken Atwell, one of the original
engineers working on the GT40, a well known GT40 kit manufacturer in
England for years.  John worked for Jaguar for 8 years, spent 10 years
with Brabam racing and several more years for another racing team in
South Africa (can't recall the name.) It was in South Africa that he
started building Cobra replicars then moved that operation to the US.
When Cobra kits became a dime a dozen and not worth much more, John got
out of the Cobra business rather than cheapening his product and got
into the GT40 business.  Shortly after purchasing KVA he got a contract
to build 10 turnkey cars for a marketing company which sold the cars
under the name American GT. Having finished the OEM contract he only
recently started preparing to sell kits to the public. So I got one of
the first "kits" and got it at 1/2 price so that he could have a
reference of someone building one of his cars. The chassis is a work of
art compared to most kit car chassis and is making it a pleasure to work
on.

The body is pretty nicely built as well from original molds he got from
KVA.  He uses a multilayer fibreglass cloth with each layer at a 15
degree bias to the others. Carbon fibre is used around the windshield
area for strength and Kevlar is used in the firewall.

I know this is way off topic, but you can't kick me off because I am
going to have to unsubscribe.  Again thank you all for the education. I
hope I have helped the few people I have responded too.

Regards,
Lynn
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 16:19:47 1999
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From: "Rob Lewin" <sdholo@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Broken Reverse
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:19:22 PDT
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Well, It finally happened to me. Transmission Problems. Seems that I can't
shift my 5 speed getrag into reverse. It's as though the gate (if there is
one) will not open. It happened three times before and each time I was able
to run it through the gears and then get it into reverse. I couldn't the
last time.

The dealer just called and told me that as best as his mechanic can
determine without a complete breakdown is that it's "broken". gee. Only a
$100 for that expert opinion. The service advisor has informed me that there
are rebuild parts that are listed in the catalog, but who knows if they're
available.

My questions to the list are: Does this problem sound familiar to anyone,
and if so what was your solution? Does anyone know if there are actually
rebuild parts available? Is this a job that a resonably competent mechanic
can do without some exotic tools? And if not, are there any shops that do
this work at a reasonable shop rate?

The car in question is a 1991 Stealth R/T TT.

Thanks for your time and hopefully your solutions.

Rob Lewin
San Diego


______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 16:23:56 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:26:03 -0500
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
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To: stealth@starnet.net, team3s <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: EGT Probe Mounting
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Which cylinder is the easiest one to weld an EGT fitting onto. Instructions for my
Autometer gauge say 4" from the head. I'm sure when I pull the front heat shield off it
will be obvious but I thought maybe you guys have some insight....

Also I should keep max EGT's under 1580F, right?

Trevor
96 R/T TT-Doing 15G's, 550's, VPC, Fuel Pump, Downpipe, Pre-Cat gutting, Greddy BOV, EGT
& A/F Ratio Gauges starting tomorrow.....
Already has a HKS EVC IV, Borla, Plugs@.034", Accel Wires, & K&N FIPK.
92 GMC Typhoon

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 16:31:03 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Lash Adjuster Update
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 18:30:23 -0500
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I've had good success with the Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (MCCC)
process over at www.dsm.org under the maintenance section. I used about 4
cans of the stuff (applied the same way as listed under dsm.org, not as it
says on the can) Let it soak in for a good 24 hours. Most of the stuff
seeped through the rings and into the oil, basically turning into an engine
flush. After changing the oil (mobil 1, 15w-50 houston, tx) the tick was
totally and completely gone. There was alot of smoke on initial startup, but
it was just the cleaner burning off inside the exhaust manifold and
downpipe. Although it isn't listed on the sight, if the car is old and has
alot of carbon buildup, the cat should be remove before the process, as it
could get plugged up from all the junk flushed out with the cleaner.
I've had very mild tick recurrences 3 months later, but only on startup for
about 20 sec. nothing a good revving (a la manual revving process,
idle-3k-idle rpm over a minutes time) doesn't fix. about as audible as
injectors ticking away (before i rev)

Omar
92 r/t


> For those of you who don't remember or haven't decoded the acronyms in my
> sig, here's what I did:
>
>
> 1) Arty's cleaning method (MMO)
> - nothing changed right away
> 2) BG 44K Fuel Injector cleaner
> - nothing changed right away
> 3) GM EOS(1pt/change) and a fresh oil/filter change
> - intermittent afterwards
> 4) Fresh oil (not filter) change
> - gone
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 16:43:04 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:43:03 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Rob Lewin <sdholo@hotmail.com>
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Broken Reverse
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Rob,

I have good news and bad news.  First the bad:  The Getrag tranny on the twin
turbo cars is officially not rebuildable since Mitsubishi and Dodge do not sell
parts.  Officially they sell new or Getrag-rebuilt units.  Either of these
options is very expensive, we've heard costs of of $4000-$6000.

The good news:  Some non-factory parts have emerged to fill the Getrag void.
Unfortunately new synchros and gears aren't officially available yet.  Also
there just happens to be a Getrag rebuilder here in San Diego!  At least you
could save on shipping charges.  I'll forward you (not the list, again) the info
on MD Auto.

Good luck,
Ken

P.S.  Do you want me to add you to the San Diego 3000GT/Stealth list?

Rob Lewin wrote:
>
> Well, It finally happened to me. Transmission Problems. Seems that I can't
> shift my 5 speed getrag into reverse. It's as though the gate (if there is
> one) will not open. It happened three times before and each time I was able
> to run it through the gears and then get it into reverse. I couldn't the
> last time.
>
> The dealer just called and told me that as best as his mechanic can
> determine without a complete breakdown is that it's "broken". gee. Only a
> $100 for that expert opinion. The service advisor has informed me that there
> are rebuild parts that are listed in the catalog, but who knows if they're
> available.
>
> My questions to the list are: Does this problem sound familiar to anyone,
> and if so what was your solution? Does anyone know if there are actually
> rebuild parts available? Is this a job that a resonably competent mechanic
> can do without some exotic tools? And if not, are there any shops that do
> this work at a reasonable shop rate?
>
> The car in question is a 1991 Stealth R/T TT.
>
> Thanks for your time and hopefully your solutions.
>
> Rob Lewin
> San Diego
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 16:51:10 1999
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To: "'3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Water Injection
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:52:17 -0700
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Im familiar with the process, but what kit(s) are people using, and specifically
at what costs, install hassles, and what have the repsective 'butt-o-meter'
guages felt about this mod?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 17:08:28 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Admin Alert:  www.3Si.org is back on line.
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 16:59:34 -0700
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As has already been reported, the website is on line once again, at
www.3Si.org .  Whether or not the fix is permanent or if all the
scripts will work is still unknown, since Eric has had to mirror the
entire site into one of its subdirectories.  Eric has provided a
separate URL for announcements as to the status of the site:
http://www.3si.org/crash/index.htm .  Again, he has said that it
will be a simple one with scripts that may or may not work, but he
will try to update frequently.

We have a link page up to reach Eric or the update site, which is at
www.bobforrest.com/3Si.htm .

The Admins



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 17:10:28 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Trevor James" <Trevor@kscable.com>, "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
Cc: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:24:57 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
To: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
Cc: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, October 24, 1999 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)

Hey guys,

Here's an efficiency map for the 368's from Brian.
You have any info regarding the 15G's?

-Noble



>"R.G." wrote:
>
>> > There is such thing as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make
the
>> turbo more
>> > efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same theory. Check
this
>> out;
>> > http://www.enzoco.com/mike/syclone/maps.htm
>>
>> I've already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b /
13g
>> compressor wheels. Anyone ?
>>


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------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE31BD.D345CEA0--

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 17:12:56 1999
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for stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:12:50 -0400
Message-ID: <002301be3201$6f4c9ac0$1e139a8e@default>
From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Turbo maps
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:28:46 -0800
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Hey everybody,

For all those interested, I have the 368 efficiency maps from Brian at Gt
pro.
E-mail me if you would like a copy

Later
Noble
(nketo@accglobal.net)



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 17:18:38 1999
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for stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:18:34 -0400
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Turbo maps
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:34:37 -0800
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Sorry guys,

My computer is always acting up :(
Regarding the 368's, e-mail if you need additional info.

-Noble
-----Original Message-----
From: nketo <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Monday, October 25, 1999 4:13 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Turbo maps


>Hey everybody,
>
>For all those interested, I have the 368 efficiency maps from Brian at Gt
>pro.
>E-mail me if you would like a copy
>
>Later
>Noble
>(nketo@accglobal.net)
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 18:24:32 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: WANTED: sunroof crank parts (Getrag?)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 19:24:21 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Precedence: bulk


Greetings all..

Once again, sorry for my low tech posts, but I need the help of all your
collective eyeballs..  :)  I need to find a 3000 or stealth with the
large glass "pop-up" roof (actually cranks) that is being parted out..

A fellow Team3S member, Moe Prasad, was kind enough to tear apart his
crank mechanism on his 92 VR4 to find out what was missing in mine..
It turns out there two pieces to the vertical "worm gear" that raises
the rear of the roof..  mine is missing the inner one.. 

you can see the internals of this mechanism at:

http://ucsu.colorado.edu/~monarchd/3000gt/sunroof/sunroof.html

I really only need that piece, but if need be I will buy a whole
regulator assembly..  I tried MSRecycling and was told I must have an
aftermarket roof since their computer didn't show a glass roof that
pops up..  somewhat rudely I might add..  hmm..  I've seen plenty of
3/S with this roof..  guess who I won't be calling any more?

the dealer wants an obscene amount for this simple mechanism..  oh
yeah..  it has gears in it..  must be made by Getrag..  :)

anyway, if any of you could forward me a phone number or URL of any
private party (preferable as likely to be more reasonably priced) or
any salvage yard that has one, I'd sure appreciate it..

Thanks!

Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 18:44:18 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 21:43:29 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Broken Reverse
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In a message dated 10/25/99 6:22:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
sdholo@hotmail.com writes:

<< My questions to the list are: Does this problem sound familiar to anyone,
and if so what was your solution? Does anyone know if there are actually
rebuild parts available? Is this a job that a resonably competent mechanic
can do without some exotic tools? And if not, are there any shops that do
this work at a reasonable shop rate?

The car in question is a 1991 Stealth R/T TT.

Thanks for your time and hopefully your solutions.

Rob Lewin >>

Hey there Rob,

    For starters, I highly recommend you or a trusted mechanic check the
shifter linkage control area; this area is located right beneath the blow off
valve vicinity.  There is a pin located there that may have "slipped out" and
is now acting as an obsturction and preventing you from entering into your
Reverse gear. 

That's the first place to check......could save you Thousands of dollars!  It
happened to me twice. 

Good luck,
Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 20:27:48 1999
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Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 20:26:12 -0700
From: Errin Humphrey <errin@u.washington.edu>
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Matt Jannusch wrote:

> I'm going to be trying to decide which turbos to go with for next summer,

> either 13G or 15G.  I don't want to sacrifice drivability and quick spoolup

> though, as I occasionally autocross the car and don't drag race often.

Matt,

I don't have the 15Gs on my 94 VR4, but I have driven around a 94 Stealth
TT with the 15Gs.  I didn't notice hardly any difference in spoolup.  The car
drove around town just fine, and it felt maybe even a little better than my car
at the low rpms maybe because it had the stock catalytic converter on (mine
doesn't).  I am not expecting to sacrifice any driveability when I upgrade to
the 15Gs.  In my opinion, upgrading only to 13Gs is kind of pointless, especially
in light of Roger Gerl's dyno charts which show that the horsepower differences
(compared to 9Bs) really aren't that great.

Good luck,

--Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 20:34:08 1999
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From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
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Subject: Team3S: adding turbos to an NA
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 1999 23:33:57 -0400
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    I've got a shot at picking up a set of stock
turbos.  Is it worthwhile looking into bolting
them onto a 3KGT base?  The only major
difference I can find between the two engines
is the compression ration  10:1/8:1....

-Remo

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 20:39:32 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
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"R.G." wrote:

> Yes, running lean is critical but the logger will see this with the O2
> sensors, the knock and the timing. Our ECU does take care of the [snip]
>
> If you want to do the tuning job most seriously you'll need :
> - temp readings : intake, turbo discharge, intercooler out, before TB,
> intake plenum, EGT
> - pressure readings : discharge, after intercooler, before turbo (turbine
> backpressure), after turbo (exhaust backpressure)

Roger,

I just wanted to pass along some tuning advice from a friend of mine
here in the Seattle area.  He's running a second-gen Eclipse tuned by
himself with a PMS (he upgraded from AFC so he could tune timing
and get data logs), and he runs 12.0 in the 1/4 mile on 19" wheels with
full interior (big 20G sized turbo).  Once his car is tuned with his new
heads, he should be easily running consistent mid 11's.

Here's what he says.

1)  Tuning with stock O2 sensor readings is no good because they are
not very accurate unless you are at partial throttle.  This is why our cars
ignore O2 sensor readings at full throttle.

2)  An A/F meter gives you a good approximation of where you are,
but it is not a very accurate thing to tune with.  It is basically making a
rough guess of what the actual ratio is.

3)  EGT readings are too coarse to tune with.  They are a useful
indicator of the limits within which you should be running.

4)  According to this friend of mine, the best indicator with which you
should tune is a wide-band O2 sensor.  It's usually too expensive to
buy one, so you need to rent it.  It has a sensor which you clip on to
your exhaust pipe and a meter which you plug into your cigarette lighter.
It gives VERY accurate O2 sensor readings which it translates into an
air/fuel ratio.  There are many other people who use it to tune their
modified cars.

So anyway, I thought you (and other people on the list) might want to
look into this.  Or if somebody on the list has used one they can pass
along their experiences.

--Errin Humphrey
Seattle, WA

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 23:38:08 1999
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I figured I'd try to redeem myself by asking a (slightly) more relevant
question..  I want to get a FIPK/Aircharger/whatever tomorrow, (or at
least order one) and wondering if anyone has found any smokin' deals..

I found one ad in Sport Compact Car that listed a special on the Aircharger
for a 2nd gen Eclipse for $79. (I'm aware of the filter size and L-bracket
issues.)  Do any of you know of any other deals?  Is the consensus still
that that K&N works best or at least as good as others?

thanks!

Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Oct 25 23:38:46 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "stealth@starnet.net" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: 9B, 13G, 15G relative performances
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The 13G make at least 50+ hp more than the 9B.  I did
no other changes on my '93 and went from 12.727 @ 107.562 mph to
12.172 @ 112.890 mph quartermile on 8/31/94 going from 9B to 13G.
This is somewhat over 50hp, and I did not have the VPC/550 injectors yet,
so had to limit boost to ~16-17psi or fuelcut came in.  In this configuration,
went best of 114.350 mph on 9/27/94, ~65hp more (all stats are NO nitrous in this
letter,
except as noted).
--I think 9B's can be good for about 410hp at wheels maxxed out with standard stuff.

Once VPC/550 injectors in, 13G's went 12.000 and 119.381 best mph, on 4/8/95;
about 500 hp at the wheels; overall, gained about 110 hp with 13G over 9B, but
given other changes 13G likely ~100 hp better than 9B.
13G best ET was 11.702 @ 118.061 on 6/6/96; this was
through traps in 3rd gear, on the rev limiter.  I was the first 3000GT in the
11's 5/17/95 with an 11.937@118.338.
--I think 13G can be good for about 510hp at wheels maxxed out with standard stuff.

15G best MPH was 11.387 @ 125.76 11/28/96 at the 1st Annual
3000GT/Stealth vs. Diamond Star Shootout in Temple, TX with the 550 injectors;
about 575 hp at the wheels, so 15G make about 75 hp more than 13 G, but note
I made some other changes so 15G likely ~40-50hp better than 13G.
After that, 720cc injectors did not add any mph to trapspeed,
indeed seemed to LOWER speed likely due to over-rich condition--
but lowered EGT a tad (max 1850 F at Temple) which may or may not have been good
because knock could at random times mean EGT high due to retard, or
due to a true lean mix.
Best ET for me with 15G was 11.303 @ 122.54 at DSM Shootout 5/16/97, which I won
class in :) full interior, as required by Dave Buschur...Adam Weltz went ~11.25 "no
NOS".
--I think 15G can be good for about 580hp at wheels maxxed out with standard stuff.
My car made best 575 or so at wheels no NOS, but that is not "maxxed"
because I always had stock intercoolers, no headers, no head/intake/throttlebody
porting/
ignition/standalone computer--with THOSE parts, my "maxxed out" figures could be
somewhat higher...

Best 3000GT/Stealth ET/MPH overall is still my 10.810 @ 128.44 with 15G's, 50hp NOS
on 6/3/97; I had the distinct honor of making this pass lined up with the late Jeff
Curtis in his Stealth...

I'd not hesitate to get 13G's if desired and price right.  The 15G make more topend,
and I think they are worth it.  17G and more exotic turbos have yet to put better
numbers to the pavement.  When they do, we'll see what other mods/weight reductions
etc are on the cars doing it.  15G are still unbeaten, both on motor and with NOS; are
capable of 125 mph quartermile / 575+ hp AT THE WHEELS no NOS in my car,
with only piggyback computer mods/no porting/enginework beyond the boltons.
Pretty amazing, really.

Jack Tertadian
Atomic Motorsports  :)

[snips:]

> Matt Jannusch wrote:
> > I'm trying to decide which turbos to get next summer,
> > either 13G or 15G.  I don't want to sacrifice drivability/quick spoolup
> > as I autocross, and don't drag race often
>

Errin Humphrey wrote:

> 94 Stealth TT with 15Gs.  I noticed hardly any difference in spoolup.
> drove around town fine, felt maybe little better than my car
> at low rpm maybe because it had cat converter (mine
> doesn't).  I am not expecting to sacrifice any driveability when I upgrade to
> 15Gs.  In my opinion, upgrading  to 13G is pointless, especially
> in light of Roger Gerl's dyno charts which show that horsepower differences
> compared to 9B really aren't that great.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 00:10:58 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Turbo question (efficiency map)
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That map is the T04E "60" trim Garrett compressor.  It is
a huge compressor, could support as much as 1000hp with
two of them.  Good luck.

nketo wrote:

> Hey guys,
> Here's an efficiency map for the 368's from Brian.
> You have any info regarding the 15G's?
> -Noble
>
> >"R.G." wrote:
> >> > There is such thing as not being able to run enough boost/RPM to make
> the
> >> turbo more efficient. This is apples to oragnes but it's the same theory.
>
> >> I've already seen such maps and I wonder if we can get it for our 9b /
> 13G compressor wheels. Anyone ?

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 07:48:54 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: adding turbos to an NA
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 09:48:47 -0500
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>     I've got a shot at picking up a set of stock
> turbos.  Is it worthwhile looking into bolting
> them onto a 3KGT base?  The only major
> difference I can find between the two engines
> is the compression ration  10:1/8:1....

As I posted a couple days ago, there's a lot more involved than just bolting them on.  You need either an additional injector controller setup or a turbo ECU, as well as exhaust manifolds, Y-pipe, BOV, (injectors?), possibly a MAF from a turbo car, downpipe, turbo oilpan, oil feed/drain lines, coolant feed/drain lines, etc.  More work than it is worth, most likely.  You also end up with a high-horsepower FWD car which will torque steer like a monster and chew through tires.  Not that chewing through tires isn't fun......

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Subject: Team3S: Re: Strut
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Rich,

I can back up what Ken said. He did his right after I paid $1,300 to a local
tire store for OEM struts, installation, and alignment ($1,100 for parts !!!).
I was more than a litle upset with myself when I found out what he paid. Part
of my problem, though, was that I couldn't find anyone to install struts that
weren't purchased through them, and I didn't want to attempt the installation
myself. Had I known then....!    As Ken said, shop around. I've since done
business with Tallahassee Mitsubishi and have been very pleased.

Welcome Rich,

>> Hello all, new to the car and I'm hearing that one of my struts is
>> leaking, and I'm worried about cost mainly.  I have a 93 R/T TT, and
>> when I quickly inquired to a friend from a tire store he recalled
>> Cadillac's electronic struts running round $500?  Same deal?  Ack!
>> Thanks in advance,

>The first thing you need to know about this car is where you can get factory
>parts at discount prices.  There are several dealers whose names keep popping
>up.  They are Mitsu dealers, but most parts are identical on the Stealth.  Try
>the one closest to you and ask for the internet 3SI discount:

>Tallahassee Mitsubishi, FL: 888-825-5648, http://www.worldparts.com/tallmits/
>Norco Mitsubishi, CA: (888) 689-1788, http://www.norcomits.com/
>Rockland Mitsubishi, NY: 914-353-2100

>I purchased 4 ECS (electronically controlled) struts earlier this year for
>about $540.  I then installed them myself and had an alignment done.  If you
>are a do-it-yourselfer, let me know and I'll send you the instructions. 
>Otherwise, you should be able to find a local shop to do the install and
>alignment for $120-$200.

>Good luck,
>Ken

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 09:20:52 1999
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Content-Identifier: 1970's 3000GT (GTO) ?
Hop-Count: 1
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 11:17 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject: Team3S: 1970's 3000GT (GTO) ?
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I have a business associate who arrived from Japan to work in Michigan a few
weeks ago. His english is not so good, and my Japanese consists of "hello",
"beer & saki", "goodbye", and "thank you", so it is possible that we had a
misunderstanding in what I'm about to tell you. After showing him pictures of
my '92 VR4, he told me that his first car in Japan was a '70s model Mitsubishi
GTO (1974 I think he said). He said this model had a 4 cyl carbureted non/turbo
engine and was actually the predecessor to what we know as the 1st generation
3000GT, or GTO in Japan. If this has been discussed on the list previously, I
appologize, but has anyone else heard this before?  Did I understand him
correctly?

Just curious.

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 09:42:12 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Wintertime and turbos (and tires - group purchase?)
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What is the negative affect of the cold on turbos? I thought turbos LIKED
the cold weather. Am I wrong?

I also live in NE and ened to get some idea of what sort of tires I can
buy for my car. I'm thinking Blizzaks (I don't think my current Falkens
are even all seasons!) but was wondering what tire size I can get - do I
need 18"ers? I want a decent looking set of rims and wheels, but 17" will
do me fine if the price is right. If someone can recommend a package or
wants to do a group purchase, let me know!



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 12:24:21 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Dave'" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N - best price?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 12:24:59 -0700
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Personally, Ive seen tests where the Apexi filters the best, followed be K&N,
with the rest falling far behind, and the green mushroom HKaSS filter filtering
practically nothing in the fine particulate tests.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave [mailto:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
Sent: Monday, October 25, 1999 11:38 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: K&N - best price?



I figured I'd try to redeem myself by asking a (slightly) more relevant
question..  I want to get a FIPK/Aircharger/whatever tomorrow, (or at
least order one) and wondering if anyone has found any smokin' deals..

I found one ad in Sport Compact Car that listed a special on the Aircharger
for a 2nd gen Eclipse for $79. (I'm aware of the filter size and L-bracket
issues.)  Do any of you know of any other deals?  Is the consensus still
that that K&N works best or at least as good as others?

thanks!

Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 12:38:32 1999
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: 1970's 3000GT (GTO) ?
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 08:37:41 +1300
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> He told me that his first car in Japan was a '70s model
> Mitsubishi GTO (1974 I think he said). He said this model
> had a 4 cyl carbureted non/turbo engine and was actually
> the predecessor to what we know as the 1st generation
> 3000GT, or GTO in Japan.

My first car was a Mitsi 1969 Colt (the only car I have
ever owned that was older than I!).  However in 1970 they
released a model called the Colt Galant GTO.

See:
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/docs6/history/html/frame_d1.htm

All this talk of history makes me feel like I am a little
biased...
  1st car     1969 Mitsi Colt
  2nd car     1977 Mitsi Lancer
  3rd car     1989 Mitsi Galant GLX
  4th car     1987 Mitsi Galant VR4
  5th car     1991 Mitsi GTO VR4

Cheers,
Kevin.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 13:30:48 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:30:42 -0500
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> All this talk of history makes me feel like I am a little
> biased...
>   1st car     1969 Mitsi Colt
>   2nd car     1977 Mitsi Lancer
>   3rd car     1989 Mitsi Galant GLX
>   4th car     1987 Mitsi Galant VR4
>   5th car     1991 Mitsi GTO VR4

Hmm, I think I have you beat Kevin...

1985 Mitsubishi Starion ESI-R
1990 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-DOHC
1991 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS-Turbo
1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max
1994 Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4
1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX
1995 Mitsubishi 3000GT Spyder VR4

;-)

Speaking of Starions, has anyone ever seen/heard-of/tried to put a VR4 motor in a Starion to make a RWD VR4 motor car?  Any idea of whether or not the Starion tranny would bolt to the 3.0l twin-turbo, assuming I can actually get everything to fit under the hood (or even without the hood)?  I am contemplating making a drag racer out of a Starion and whatever VR4 remains I can find.  The DSM guys are building them with DSM motors and getting in the 10's, I'm thinking a fully built VR4 motor could put one in the 9's easy, hopefully without the wimpy Getrag trannys getting in the way...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
'88 Starion VR4????
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 13:39:35 1999
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To: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>, Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT Probe Mounting
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Trevor, I mounted mine about three inches before the turbo in the front manifold.  The
exhaust from all three cylinders has already merged into one pipe by this point.  I did not
weld the fitting on.  It was a pipe thread so I just tapped the exhaust manifold.  I did
remove the exhaust manifold to do this, but you can do it on the car.  If I understand your
sig. correctly, you will already have the turbos off.
    Under load my EGT's vary between 850-950 deg Celsius.  I know this is high, but I am not
really pushing the engine.  I think the gauge and/or probe may be off, but there is no way
of testing it.  I have an APEXi.

Mike C.
0018
'95 Stealth RT TT

Trevor James wrote:

> Which cylinder is the easiest one to weld an EGT fitting onto. Instructions for my
> Autometer gauge say 4" from the head. I'm sure when I pull the front heat shield off it
> will be obvious but I thought maybe you guys have some insight....
>
> Also I should keep max EGT's under 1580F, right?
>
> Trevor
> 96 R/T TT-Doing 15G's, 550's, VPC, Fuel Pump, Downpipe, Pre-Cat gutting, Greddy BOV, EGT
> & A/F Ratio Gauges starting tomorrow.....
> Already has a HKS EVC IV, Borla, Plugs@.034", Accel Wires, & K&N FIPK.
> 92 GMC Typhoon
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 13:45:51 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:05:44 -0500
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Sheese, I take it the Starion is a rather small car?  Sounds like what yer
trying to do is very similar to the Monster Miata that people make.
Basically taking a rustang 5.0 engine and sticking it into a Miata.  Talk
about a zippy little car :).  Wonder what would happen if you could stick a
full VR-4 TT setup into a Miata? ;)p

Here's another question for ya'll.  Which would be the better year to get a
VR-4 from, a '95 or a '96?  Why?  Because these are the years with the body
styling I like the most :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 13:54:07 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: ooops, sorry, didn't clarify :(
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 15:14:02 -0500
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I just realized I should've been more specific in my question about which is
better, a '95 or a '96.  Speaking from a technical stand point where
upgradability is concerned?  There's a good possibility that I'll be able to
trade up to a VR-4 in about 5 months, and being the power greedy bastard
that I am, I want to upgrade it as much as is possible ;).  So if there are
limitations between the years (like say one year has a better transmission
than a different year for example?) I want to take that into consideration.
Also if someone thinks that an entirely different year would be best I'm
definately interested in knowing :).

Thanks, and sorry for the double post.


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 14:40:49 1999
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> As I posted a couple days ago, there's a lot more involved than just
bolting them on.  You need either an additional injector controller setup or
a turbo ECU, as well as exhaust manifolds, Y-pipe, BOV, (injectors?),
possibly a MAF from a turbo car, downpipe, turbo oilpan, oil feed/drain
lines, coolant feed/drain lines, etc.  More work than it is worth, most
likely.  You also end up with a high-horsepower FWD car which will torque
steer like a monster and chew through tires.  Not that chewing through tires
isn't fun......
>
Matt is mostly right but a turbo is not the biggest problem as you can use
an aircharger that dosn't need any coolant or oil lines. The size of the
housing is bigger but not a problem. The Turbo should be chosen for enough
airflow but only about 8 psi of boost. Such a device is available for the
NSX and would work on the 3000GT too.

But how the heck would you make the connection from the heads to the turbo ?
This is very difficult and you must design a long piping that will get hot.
This is bad and will not be very successfully in the end.

BTW, you can do this but it'll cost you around $8000 and then the tranny
will become the problem as well as the clutch or automatic.

Simply said ... not worth, money time and hassle !

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 14:40:51 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Knock, knock ....
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 23:14:04 +0200
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> 1)  Tuning with stock O2 sensor readings is no good because they are
> not very accurate unless you are at partial throttle.  This is why our
cars
> ignore O2 sensor readings at full throttle.

The ECUs are in open loop at WOT and therefore disregard the O2 sensors.
This is not because the sensors are expensive :-) At WOT a secific table is
taken for fuel and ignition without adjustments.

> 2)  An A/F meter gives you a good approximation of where you are,
> but it is not a very accurate thing to tune with.  It is basically making
a
> rough guess of what the actual ratio is.

Well, compared to the knock and timing on the datalog the voltage on the O2
sensor at WOT tells me where I am. At 0.88 V there is knock that lowers
woith 0.9V and mostly dissapears at 0.94 Volts. I htink this is pretty
accurate. Of course, a ten LED meter is not able to do this.

> 3)  EGT readings are too coarse to tune with.  They are a useful
> indicator of the limits within which you should be running.

Yes, exactly.

> 4)  According to this friend of mine, the best indicator with which you
> should tune is a wide-band O2 sensor.

On the dyno, we always have an A/F sneeker in the exhaust.

> So anyway, I thought you (and other people on the list) might want to
> look into this.  Or if somebody on the list has used one they can pass
> along their experiences.

The A/F ratio meter, the sneeker and the logger are showing the correct
values within a small tolerance. The A/F meter is a good indicator for
running less rich with voltage under 0.9V and the 0.9V and 1.V lamp lighting
up, this means 0.95V and is a little too rich. I thin kthis is not a bad
indicator, although it will never ever reach the capabilities of a
datalogger. The EGT meter is a good control for retarded timing and lean
situations too. Both are more warning instruments than tuning tools for sure
but not everyone can use a high cost A/F meter as well as not everyone has a
datalogger. That's why we have to use what we can get.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 14:40:54 1999
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References: <001201be3200$e9f52ae0$1e139a8e@default> <381500F0.DBFA7335@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Turbo questions for all (efficiency map)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 23:21:40 +0200
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Not a problem as this is a standard efficiency map for turbo chargers ;-)
The left is the pressure ratio. For example : 15psi of boost, pr is
(14.7+15)/14.7 = 2.03
Now you can calculate the engines need of air at any rpm with 15 psi of
boost and you may find a result of 40 lbs/min. Now draw the pr line to the
right and the flow to the top. The lines will cross each other at 72%
efficiency on the T4 islands. You can also add the rpm lines to the drawing
with calculating the air flow with the raising boost. The pics shown on the
Cyclone page are good examples. That way you'll finally choose the right
turbo for your application.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


> Is that pressure ratio on the left inlet vs. outlet pressure? Man that
chart's
> confusing!


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 14:41:02 1999
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References: <3814D63B.9612A244@ibm.net> <3814E70B.D9189022@kscable.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT Probe Mounting
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> Which cylinder is the easiest one to weld an EGT fitting onto.
Instructions for my
> Autometer gauge say 4" from the head. I'm sure when I pull the front heat
shield off it
> will be obvious but I thought maybe you guys have some insight....

The front one just before the turbo flange is a good position. Do not just
tap into one tube as this will reduce the airflow of this specific one. As
the turbo causes backpressure the EGT reading will be pretty good on any
place in the manifold.

> Also I should keep max EGT's under 1580F, right?

This is always a debate but I think readings above 1580 are piston melting
temperatures. But the temp in the exhaust may be higher due to the pressure
before the turbo and tI'd say that the EGT should not exceed 1650. But I do
not have any experience with reading on mine yet, so others may give you
better input.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 14:41:04 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 23:28:31 +0200
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> Im familiar with the process, but what kit(s) are people using, and
specifically
> at what costs, install hassles, and what have the repsective
'butt-o-meter'
> guages felt about this mod?

I'm using the ERL System 2 with 3D water mapping. No installation hassle as
only a place for the pump and an ordinary water tank should be found. The
later can be any size, material and design. I used the front mount water
tank the EU cars have. Cost was around $900 with the additional
water-controller and the MAP sensor that allows me to create a 3D map for
the water injected. Water did not increased horespower but on the streets
I'm now able to run 1.18 kg/cm2 with the same low amount of knock like at
1.0 kg/cm2. On the dyno, the water got heated up and one jet broke due to my
stupid installation. I've choosen two jets as this is possible with this
system. One is used for additional intercooling and the other controls
detonation. The first was only screwed in into the front metal IC pipe and
the threat was not withstanding the higher boost. Therfore I do not have
real dyno figures. On the street the WI lowerd the intake temperature from
144°F to 112°F and I think this speaks for itselfs.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 16:11:08 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Jeff A Williamson" <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 1970's 3000GT (GTO) ?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 16:07:54 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Jeff A Williamson
<Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
>I have a business associate who arrived from Japan to work in
Michigan a few
>weeks ago. His english is not so good, and my Japanese consists of
"hello",
>"beer & saki", "goodbye", and "thank you", so it is possible that
we had a
>misunderstanding in what I'm about to tell you. After showing him
pictures of
>my '92 VR4, he told me that his first car in Japan was a '70s model
Mitsubishi
>GTO (1974 I think he said). He said this model had a 4 cyl
carbureted non/turbo
>engine and was actually the predecessor to what we know as the 1st
generation
>3000GT, or GTO in Japan. If this has been discussed on the list
previously, I
>appologize, but has anyone else heard this before?  Did I
understand him
>correctly?


'Yes', and 'probably', but he's wrong.  That's like saying the 1950
Ford was the predecessor to the '55 Thunderbird, or that Chevy's
PowerGlide transmissions were the predecessors to Corvette's
PosiTraction.  The boxy offerings from Mitsubishi in the 70's,
(Lancer, etc) have nothing in common with the VR-4s other than fine
performance, priced too high and marketed poorly.  They weren't
upgraded Starions or Magnas or Diamantes or Veradas or Lancers...,
or any of the other suggestions made on lists or in print.  The
Stealth/3000GT were designed from the ground up, according to both
Chrysler and Mitsubishi.  In the early 80's, Chrysler couldn't build
a car that didn't break, and Mitsubishi couldn't design a car that
didn't look like a box, so their partnership in 1988 was a perfect
union for this project that became the Stealth and the 3000GT...

Mitsubishi's myriad innovations were well known, so a number of
their superior technologies were upgraded to make this mechanical
marvel of a vehicle--  their engine and turbos, their work with
sound attenuation, steering control, brakes were the best available.
But the body came from Chrysler's Hyland Park design think
tank in California in the early and mid 80's, and was a concept car
originally known as the Intrepid, which looked like a Stealth/3000GT
from the front and the NSX from the back, and was a mid-engine
4-banger until Mitsu took over the actual building of the car.  The
scoops on the sides were originally functional, used to cool the
mid-engine.  Mitsu adopted the nose design almost exactly, but at
the last minute, Dodge went for the trademark "gunsight" grille it
uses in all its products, including all Stealths.  Mitsu showed the
HSX, (which became the GTO) in 1989; Chrysler showed the Intrepid 2
or 3 years earlier-- same car, only the HSX had a spoiler and
mirrors like we know them.  These cars were "Designed by Chrysler,
Built by Mitsubishi", like it or not...

The terms GT and GTO stand for "Grand Touring" Car, from the
Italian, "Gran TourismO".  This was a phrase made popular in the
30's and 40's by Ferrari and other Italian manufacturers, and
championed by British Leyland, Jaguar, etc, to mean 'larger and more
comfortable' than traditionally tiny two-seater sports cars.  A
sporty performance car that one could travel in comfortably, as it
were...  Pontiac copyrighted the phrase in the late 50's, and used
it on their popular line of cars in the 60's, so Mitsubishi was
prevented from using GTO in the States, hence the 3000GT name,
rather than the GTO name used in Japan.

I have the photo of the HSX for anyone who's interested, but have to
get permission to share the Intrepid photo, since it's a personal
photo that's not mine.  And keep any arguments, flames, etc.,
private please...

Best,

Forrest








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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 16:28:13 1999
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From: "Doug Garrott" <dgarrott@texas.net>
To: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>,
        "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <00c701bf1fed$7d814fc0$10c9c9c9@benson>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:19:20 -0500
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I'm also partial to the styling of the '94 & '95.  One difference I've
encountered is that the '94 has glass headlight modules that tend to show
condensation in the sealed units.  My '94 base 3K had this and the local
dealer only wanted $480 apiece to replace them - I lived with it.  I hear
that the '95 on have cured that problem.

Doug G
'93 VR4
----- Original Message -----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell <benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 3:05 PM
Subject: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?


> Sheese, I take it the Starion is a rather small car?  Sounds like what yer
> trying to do is very similar to the Monster Miata that people make.
> Basically taking a rustang 5.0 engine and sticking it into a Miata.  Talk
> about a zippy little car :).  Wonder what would happen if you could stick
a
> full VR-4 TT setup into a Miata? ;)p
>
> Here's another question for ya'll.  Which would be the better year to get
a
> VR-4 from, a '95 or a '96?  Why?  Because these are the years with the
body
> styling I like the most :).
>
>
> Latufh fuh U,
> Benson
> benson@2015.com
>
> "-Do you ever have second thoughts?
> -When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 16:34:39 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 18:34:30 -0500
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> Sheese, I take it the Starion is a rather small car?  Sounds
> like what yer
> trying to do is very similar to the Monster Miata that people make.
> Basically taking a rustang 5.0 engine and sticking it into a
> Miata.  Talk
> about a zippy little car :).  Wonder what would happen if you
> could stick a full VR-4 TT setup into a Miata? ;)p

I think if you put the VR4 motor in a Miata it would tear it to pieces from all the midrange torque.

The Starion is the same thing as a Dodge Conquest, similar to the Daytona and Shadow in most respects.  A somewhat angled-looking RWD turbo car with decent performance characteristics, other than a rather anemic motor that doesn't respond particularly well to upgrades.  The motor was originally a truck motor with a turbo bolted on.  Swapping out the motor would probably leave a pretty sweet little drag racing car.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 17:03:53 1999
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Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:02:05 -0700
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 9B, 13G, 15G relative performances
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xwing wrote:

>  Once VPC/550 injectors in, 13G's went 12.000 and 119.381 best mph, on 4/8/95;
> about 500 hp at the wheels; overall, gained about 110 hp with 13G over 9B, but
> given other changes 13G likely ~100 hp better than 9B.
>
> Errin Humphrey wrote:
>
> > doesn't).  I am not expecting to sacrifice any driveability when I upgrade to
> > 15Gs.  In my opinion, upgrading  to 13G is pointless, especially
> > in light of Roger Gerl's dyno charts which show that horsepower differences
> > compared to 9B really aren't that great.

Jack,

Thanks for the very informative post.  It easily shoots down my
hasty statements, and it also gives a good overview of the real-world
power differences between these turbo setups.  I hope you will
soon be able to add 17G numbers to the list.  Also, do you think
you could comment on the differences in normal driveability when
going from 9B to 13G to 15G?  That's what I was trying to comment
on in the first place.

I come back to Roger Gerl's dyno runs which show his Euro-spec
(13G) VR4 having a slightly better torque curve but ~lower~
overall horsepower compared to two US-spec (9B) TT's dyno'd
on the same day.  This obviously conflicts with your tremendous
increases in trap speeds with the 13G upgrades on your car.

What could explain this?  I've always offered the explanation which
I mentioned when Roger concluded from these dyno runs that exhaust
mods do not increase horsepower (on stock turbos):  I think it might
have something to do with inadequate airflow (especially to the inter-
coolers) on the dyno.  We've all been here before, so I'll just leave it
at that.  :)

>15G are still unbeaten, both on motor and with NOS; are capable of
>125 mph quartermile / 575+ hp AT THE WHEELS no NOS in my car,
>with only piggyback computer mods/no porting/enginework beyond the
>boltons.  Pretty amazing, really.

Amazing is an understatement.

--Errin Humphrey

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 19:28:13 1999
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From: "nketo" <nketo@accglobal.net>
To: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>,
        "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:42:23 -0700
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Benson,

The 3000 engine would destroy the 5.0 for sure! :)
In regards to the '95 or '96, I would select the one that had the least
number of
miles period.

Best of luck!
Noble


-----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell <benson@2015.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 1:48 PM
Subject: Team3S: GTO/cars/Starion VR4?


>Sheese, I take it the Starion is a rather small car?  Sounds like what yer
>trying to do is very similar to the Monster Miata that people make.
>Basically taking a rustang 5.0 engine and sticking it into a Miata.  Talk
>about a zippy little car :).  Wonder what would happen if you could stick a
>full VR-4 TT setup into a Miata? ;)p
>
>Here's another question for ya'll.  Which would be the better year to get a
>VR-4 from, a '95 or a '96?  Why?  Because these are the years with the body
>styling I like the most :).
>
>
>Latufh fuh U,
>Benson
>benson@2015.com
>
>"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
>-When do I ever have first thoughts?"
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 19:30:26 1999
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From: "Ian Calegory" <iancalegory@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Whine in new '94 VR-4
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 20:31:32 -0600
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Hi, I just purchased a '95 3000GT VR-4 and have a couple of questions about
it.  I think overall the car is in pretty good shape, especially the body
and paint, but there are a couple of concerns I have about it.

First of all is that when I am in 2nd or 3rd gear at high torque (around
4,000 - 5,000 rpm) I hear something that makes a loud whining noise that
lasts for less than a second.  I've gathered that these Getrag transmissions
go out frequently, so is it possible that that's what it is, and that it
needs to be rebuilt?

Also, I hear some clacking noises in the engine that I think might be one
more more noisy lifters.  Is it likely noisy lifters?  What does it take to
fix that?  I didn't notice the sound before I bought the car, but the oil
was pretty dirty, and I know it's possible to temporarily quiet lifters by
putting some gunk in the oil.  I had a compression test done on the engine
before I bought it, and the guy told me the compression was 120 psi.
However, I found out later that he only checked some of the cylinders--if
there is a noisy lifter problem, would this have shown up on a full
compression test as a low psi reading on one of the cylinders?

The car had a little less than 65,000 miles on it, and I did enough research
(called the warranty dept. at a Mitsubishi dealer, found out the two dealers
that worked on the car, and called them up to check the service records--the
service guy told me I couldn't go wrong with the car) on it to be fairly
certain that the 60,000 mile service (new timing belt, water pump,
tensioner, etc.) hasn't been done on the car.  When I get this done (at a
Mitsubishi dealer, most likely) will they have the engine apart enough to
where it wouldn't take much more tearing down to get to where they can fix
the lifter problem, so maybe they wouldn't charge me as much?

Sorry if these questions sound very "newbie", but hey this is my first
3000GT.  I do think it is an awesome car!

Ian

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 19:34:40 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spotting ODB?
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 20:54:03 -0500
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One question that came up while asking about the different years of VR-4s,
was that late model '95's and all '96's are ODBII (making them harder to
upgrade?).  I'm not sure of the specifics to what ODB stands for (if anyone
wouldn't mind privately emailing me like a quick run-down of the ODB specs
that'd be appreciated, or a link to a site with more info on it.  Always
looking to know more :).  I do know that it means there's more exhaust
restrictions on the car due to emissions laws (just don't know what :).  The
question I have is that how to tell if your car is ODBI or ODBII?  I
currently own a base '95 model, I'd like to see what it is just out of
curiosity, and how to spot it in the future.

thanks again for the help, definately much appreciated :).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 19:54:50 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <006101bf2023$621ee7c0$3b120818@whtrdg1.co.home.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Whine in new '94 VR-4
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 20:56:26 -0600
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To clarify, my car is a '95, even though I said '94 in the subject line.

Ian

----- Original Message -----
From: Ian Calegory <iancalegory@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 8:31 PM
Subject: Team3S: Whine in new '94 VR-4


> Hi, I just purchased a '95 3000GT VR-4 and have a couple of questions
about
> it.  I think overall the car is in pretty good shape, especially the body
> and paint, but there are a couple of concerns I have about it.
>
> First of all is that when I am in 2nd or 3rd gear at high torque (around
> 4,000 - 5,000 rpm) I hear something that makes a loud whining noise that
> lasts for less than a second.  I've gathered that these Getrag
transmissions
> go out frequently, so is it possible that that's what it is, and that it
> needs to be rebuilt?
>
> Also, I hear some clacking noises in the engine that I think might be one
> more more noisy lifters.  Is it likely noisy lifters?  What does it take
to
> fix that?  I didn't notice the sound before I bought the car, but the oil
> was pretty dirty, and I know it's possible to temporarily quiet lifters by
> putting some gunk in the oil.  I had a compression test done on the engine
> before I bought it, and the guy told me the compression was 120 psi.
> However, I found out later that he only checked some of the cylinders--if
> there is a noisy lifter problem, would this have shown up on a full
> compression test as a low psi reading on one of the cylinders?
>
> The car had a little less than 65,000 miles on it, and I did enough
research
> (called the warranty dept. at a Mitsubishi dealer, found out the two
dealers
> that worked on the car, and called them up to check the service
records--the
> service guy told me I couldn't go wrong with the car) on it to be fairly
> certain that the 60,000 mile service (new timing belt, water pump,
> tensioner, etc.) hasn't been done on the car.  When I get this done (at a
> Mitsubishi dealer, most likely) will they have the engine apart enough to
> where it wouldn't take much more tearing down to get to where they can fix
> the lifter problem, so maybe they wouldn't charge me as much?
>
> Sorry if these questions sound very "newbie", but hey this is my first
> 3000GT.  I do think it is an awesome car!
>
> Ian
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Oct 26 21:39:34 1999
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Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell wrote:

> One question that came up while asking about the different years of VR-4s,
> was that late model '95's and all '96's are ODBII (making them harder to
> upgrade?).  I'm not sure of the specifics to what ODB stands for (if anyone

I think you're having a bit of acronym confusion, Benson.  :)

O.D.B. is the nickname for a rapper known as Ol' Dirty Bastard.

O.B.D. I think stands for On-Board Diagnostics, but I'm not 100% sure.

> The question I have is that how to tell if your car is ODBI or ODBII?

If your car is '95 then it is most likely OBDII, but again I'm not 100%
sure about that.

--Errin "baby I got ya money" Humphrey
Seattle, wA

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 09:07:36 1999
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From: "Wallis, Gavin" <WallisG@MWAA.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: NOS VR4
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 11:46:56 -0400
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I hope Mr. JT will have the answer on this one.

I've heard the question bumped around the list once or twice, but I have
never really hard anything to definitive (if possible). What are the
feelings on a fairly conservative (50hp) shot of NOS on our VR-4s?

Should certain other mods be in place first?
Even though it may not blow the engine up immediately, are there some long
term considerations?
Is 50hp too conservative?

Thanks,
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 10:54:26 1999
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A week ago, I posted a message asking what would cause my engine to
intermittantly misfire after degreasing and hosing off the engine. I received
several responses suggesting the following:

1) Loose electrical connection somewhere
2) Loose plug wires
3) Water in the coil-pack wells
4) Water in the spark plug wells
5) Water in some of the sensors
6) Fouled plug

After hours of research, I finally found the problem. And the winner is ......
# 4 - moisture in the center rear plug well and at least an ounce of water in
the left rear plug well. What a pain in the ####!!! Why can't the rear plugs be
as easy to get to as the front ones ?!?!

A little compressed air to dry things out and problem solved. Thanks for your
help.

Jeff Williamson
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 11:13:45 1999
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Interesting threads on turbo upgrades.  A few comments and questions.

Jack stated that with the standard upgrades, 9Bs will max out at around
410 SAE HP, 13Gs at 500 SAE HP and 15Gs at 575 SAE HP.  Impressive
indeed.

Dyno testing reveals that 410 SAE HP is in fact an accurate estimate for
9B turbos with only a boost controller.  However, under the same
conditions, dyno testing also indicates that 13Gs produce more torque
but about the same horsepower (boost controller + exhaust).  Both
systems could produce more boost, but not without detonation (1.0 bar
seemed to be the limit for both).

Jack's acceleration results certainly support his horsepower estimates,
but it begs the question of reliability.  Granted, all three cars tested
on the dyno on 1 February had stock fuel systems; a stronger fuel pump,
larger injectors and accompanying electronics may support increased
boost without detonation, perhaps exaggerating the advantage of 13G
turbos.

But it seems to me that the limiting factor will soon be internals, such
as rings and seals.  How is it possible that 13Gs could produce 500
reliable horsepower and 15Gs 575+ reliable horsepower without internal
engine modifications?  I suppose there is a difference here between a 12
second blast down the dragstrip and letting 'er rip for several minutes
at full boost on the Autobahn, or even road racing.  Are we talking
about _sustained_ horsepower here?

Even though my car made 406 SAE HP on the dyno, I can't say I'm
confident about pegging the throttle for long periods on the Autobahn.
Mike's EGTs seem high, and as he has a freer-flowing exhaust, I would
expect my temps to be higher yet.  I would think sustained EGT is a
major reason for stock Euro-spec VR-4s having larger turbos and no
restrictive Tour exhaust option.

Here are my concerns, in order:

1. reliability (lower EGTs?  long term effects of higher boost?)
2. drivability (excessive lag?  flat spots?  incurable rough idle?)
3. performance (still stuck at 1.0 bar to avoid detonation?)
4. convenience (constant dinking with the fuel settings?)


Note that it seems like a lot of the big turbo, high-horsepower folks
have inoperable vehicles most of the time.  This is not encouraging!  I
am very interested in increasing performance, but my Stealth is a
primary vehicle on which I must depend every day.  I want to smoke my
neighbor's new 400+ HP M5 _every damn day_ on the way to work!  :-)  And
I have not forgotten the Type 996 911 Twin-Turbo test mule that pulled
away from me back in June... (saw a GT3 over the weekend but I was
driving my van!)

Survey: How many of you have been pushing 500+ horsepower in your daily
driver for, say, 10,000+ miles without any problems and with no
sacrifice in drivability?

TIA... -Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 12:10:29 1999
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Message-ID: <03fc01bf20ae$390524e0$198d0818@msnv1.occa.home.com>
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Jeff A Williamson" <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <2237111@jsux04.corp.jci.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: You were right!!! (was My Baby's Misfiring)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 12:05:23 -0700
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> After hours of research, I finally found the problem. And the winner is ......
> # 4 - moisture in the center rear plug well and at least an ounce of water in
> the left rear plug well. What a pain in the ####!!! Why can't the rear plugs be
> as easy to get to as the front ones ?!?!
===================================================

The fix may not be as simple as drying the offending water --- the water
and ensuing high voltage short can break down the insulation on the
plug wire  and require replacement of the wire. I'd definately do the
rear one!!!


   Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 13:03:03 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: You were right!!! (was My Baby's Misfiring)
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> 4) Water in the spark plug wells
> After hours of research, I finally found the problem. And the winner is
......
> # 4 - moisture in the center rear plug well and at least an ounce of water
in
> the left rear plug well.

Great you found the problem ! I myself clean the ignition coil connectors
with contact cleaner every second month as well as I clean the wires and
plugs. The manual even states that the wires should not touch the engine and
the stock looms should be used.

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 13:06:58 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "3/S Sirius Mailing List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F7669@EXCHANGE1> <38151F54.41A2564C@u.washington.edu> <38154BA1.AEF94250@execpc.com> <381640FD.4C55F31D@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 9B, 13G, 15G relative performances
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:57:53 +0200
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> I come back to Roger Gerl's dyno runs which show his Euro-spec
> (13G) VR4 having a slightly better torque curve but ~lower~
> overall horsepower compared to two US-spec (9B) TT's dyno'd
> on the same day.  This obviously conflicts with your tremendous
> increases in trap speeds with the 13G upgrades on your car.

First, Jack runned up to 17 psi compared to the 14.7 psi we did on the dyno.
The 13G will then still be on a better efficiency island than the 9B. Even
more, 12.7 are possible with the stock turbos when the pre-cats are gutted
and a free-flowing exhaust is provided. The turbos will then have a better
pressure between the turbine wheel and provide a better steady boost.
Second, I guess Jack already had other intercoolers, that decrease the
intake air and therefore provides more power and less detonation. Last but
not least, I'm sure Jack runned racing fuel :-)

> What could explain this?  I've always offered the explanation which
> I mentioned when Roger concluded from these dyno runs that exhaust
> mods do not increase horsepower (on stock turbos):  I think it might
> have something to do with inadequate airflow (especially to the inter-
> coolers) on the dyno.  We've all been here before, so I'll just leave it
> at that.  :)

My temp reading just infront the throttle body where 161°F on the dyno and
156°F on the street. There was only a day in between with same ambient. I
think this means to me that the difference is negligible.

The intake temp is definitely lowered with a larger intercooler that finally
causes less detonation/knock and therefore also causes less retard. My temp
dropped to 112°F with water injection !

For "normal" boost of 15psi as well as the pre-cats still in place, the
exhaust mods did not do anything to power ! BUT, the dp without a cat helps
in better spool-up and therefore you gain in trap speed.... but not
horsepower.

Adding then 13G will lower the discharge temperature when running them at
the same level as the 9B. This should be seen on the maps, but
interestingly, noone has maps for 9B, 13G or even 15G or 17G. I'm pretty
sure, that the larger turbos will really benefit from opening up the
exhaust.

> >15G are still unbeaten, both on motor and with NOS; are capable of
> >125 mph quartermile / 575+ hp AT THE WHEELS no NOS in my car,
> >with only piggyback computer mods/no porting/enginework beyond the
> >boltons.

I agree that the 15G would be the right solution and I would take them now
with what I know today. The available stuff doesn't make any ECU mod
necessary. Even more, I found a retarded timing with the first chipset and
it was somewhat less powerful as the stock ECU !! I drove it for a few
hundered miles and I noticed that the thing learned over at least 100 miles.
But milage dropped heavily even with easy driving. I tried to compensate
with the ARC but with even conservative fuel levels a lot of these expensive
juice was wasted :-(

Roger,
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 13:09:57 1999
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From: "Palamara, Peter" <pala@gwl.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: FW: help need part # for je pistons
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 14:00:56 -0600
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If anyone has ordered the JE pistons for our cars keeping the stock
compression and strengthened wrist pins keeping the stock rods please email
me directly with that part number . Thanx
Please make sure the ones you have are not the cheaper srp kind. Thanx a
million.


92 3000 GTO S.C.
Soon to be exactly what the plates say :)
Plates (HIPRESR)
1-800-888-gwla x4733
http://members.xoom.com/palamarap

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 13:12:20 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Wallis, Gavin'" <WallisG@MWAA.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: NOS VR4
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:13:33 -0700
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Having used NOS on my supra for a couple years (100Hp dry shot) I feel that the
power output from NOS, when uses intelligently, correctly, and with the proper
respect for the system (it can be complicated on how to use it right given
different conditions) it is no more harmful on your motor than what the same
amount of added boost would be.

Any deviation from the 100% correct way to use NOS, can be damaging.

ANY modifications made on a car get you closer and closer to the point where you
will be at the edge of engineering tolerances on certain parts of a motor or
drivetrain.

-----Original Message-----
From: Wallis, Gavin [mailto:WallisG@MWAA.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 8:47 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: NOS VR4


I hope Mr. JT will have the answer on this one.

I've heard the question bumped around the list once or twice, but I have
never really hard anything to definitive (if possible). What are the
feelings on a fairly conservative (50hp) shot of NOS on our VR-4s?

Should certain other mods be in place first?
Even though it may not blow the engine up immediately, are there some long
term considerations?
Is 50hp too conservative?

Thanks,
Gavin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 13:35:16 1999
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From: Luis Interiano <Interian@oeaa.com>
To: "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Starter problems
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:30:36 -0700
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Has anyone on the club ever worked on a 94 3K GT starter, I think I might
have to this weekend.  The car seems to start without a problem but as soon
as it has cranked it makes a metal on metal rubbing noise.  The car only
makes the noise when it is cold and after it has turned over.  The noise
lasts for about a second.  I was told by a mechanic that the starter needs
to be replaced, he added that the "bendex" is not recoiling. 

I have little trust with this mechanic since the problem only started after
they replaced the clutch (and in the process scratched one of my chromed
rims with a screw driver).  I don't have a service manual for this car, so
any information would be greatly appreciated.

Luis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 13:38:56 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Luis Interiano'" <Interian@oeaa.com>,
        "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Starter problems
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:40:07 -0700
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No..he sounds correct.

The starter gear itself, isnt coming back into the starter when you relase the
key, and its spininng up on the flywheel instead.

This will eventuall destroy the starter, starter gear.

-----Original Message-----
From: Luis Interiano [mailto:Interian@oeaa.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 1:31 PM
To: Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)
Subject: Team3S: Starter problems


Has anyone on the club ever worked on a 94 3K GT starter, I think I might
have to this weekend.  The car seems to start without a problem but as soon
as it has cranked it makes a metal on metal rubbing noise.  The car only
makes the noise when it is cold and after it has turned over.  The noise
lasts for about a second.  I was told by a mechanic that the starter needs
to be replaced, he added that the "bendex" is not recoiling. 

I have little trust with this mechanic since the problem only started after
they replaced the clutch (and in the process scratched one of my chromed
rims with a screw driver).  I don't have a service manual for this car, so
any information would be greatly appreciated.

Luis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 18:13:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 21:12:55 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Starter problems
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Sounds like the starter solenoid is gone.  On our cars, the solenoid is
attached to the starter.  If it is bad, it will cause the starter gear to
either not recoil or recoil very slowly.  If that happens, the gear will stay
meshed with the flywheel and cause the grinding sound you describe.  It is
likely that, if you just had the clutch replaced and you had no problems
before, the garage you took your car to cracked or broke or cracked the
solenoid when taking the wires off or replacing them.  That area of the
solenoid can be troublesome.

    I don't know if you can replace the solenoid only on our cars.  I'd bet
not.  In any event, I'd replace the starter/solenoid as a pair.

Joe 91TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 19:12:18 1999
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Reply-To: <beking@home.com>
From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: "Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Starter problems
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:12:37 -0700
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...and possibly the flywheel...

Sometimes starters need to be shimmed for proper aligment.  Took me years
(and several starters) before this was pointed out to me.  Most SHOPS don't
even do this...


Barry

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Mohler, Jeff
> Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 1:40 PM
> To: 'Luis Interiano'; Stealth-3000gt (E-mail)
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Starter problems
>
>
> No..he sounds correct.
>
> The starter gear itself, isnt coming back into the starter when
> you relase the
> key, and its spininng up on the flywheel instead.
>
> This will eventuall destroy the starter, starter gear.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 19:57:25 1999
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Message-ID: <003501bf20ef$ef635400$93f993cd@kevin>
From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Over Boost
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 22:55:46 -0400
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First some background.
-1991 Stealth TT
-Just finished the 60,000 mile service myself plus gutted the cats and
pre-cats
-Temp is around 45 deg. F colder than I have ever driven the car. (had it
less than a year)
-Blitz SSBC
Now the fun part.  I can not get the boost down......  I only ran the car up
to about 4500 RPM but it goes up to 1.1 bar and nothing I do on the
controller helps.  I turned the gain all the way down, turned the knobs all
the way down and even shut the thing off.  Can't figure it out for the life
of me.  I checked all the hoses, everything seems tight.  I do notice a big
difference in spool up time since I gutted the cats.... much quicker now.
Could I have damaged the waste gate when I gutted the rear pre-cat?  Is it
that cold that I am just getting that much boost?  I am going out now to
unplug the solenoid and see if it goes down to 6psi where is should be.
Maybe the line going to the boost controller is loose or cut.

Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under construction---------------

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 21:11:11 1999
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From: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "Kevin" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <003501bf20ef$ef635400$93f993cd@kevin>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Over Boost fixed.... muffler question
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 00:09:31 -0400
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    Ok, I figured it out myself. :-)  The line from the Y-pipe to the bottom
of the solenoid was half off.  It looked like it was connected but when I
tugged on it, it came off.  All is well and the car runs like a dream.  I
don't know how it ran from the showroom since I bought it used, but it's
running better than it ever has.
    I notice a little more rumble from the exhaust since the cats are no
longer there, but I want more.  Anyone ever try changing just the mufflers
to say Flowmaster's or Super Traps?  I know Flowmaster's will drone but I
like them, I have no experience with the Super Traps.

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under construction---------------
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 10:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Over Boost


> First some background.
> -1991 Stealth TT
> -Just finished the 60,000 mile service myself plus gutted the cats and
> pre-cats
> -Temp is around 45 deg. F colder than I have ever driven the car. (had it
> less than a year)
> -Blitz SSBC
> Now the fun part.  I can not get the boost down......  I only ran the car
up
> to about 4500 RPM but it goes up to 1.1 bar and nothing I do on the
> controller helps.  I turned the gain all the way down, turned the knobs
all
> the way down and even shut the thing off.  Can't figure it out for the
life
> of me.  I checked all the hoses, everything seems tight.  I do notice a
big
> difference in spool up time since I gutted the cats.... much quicker now.
> Could I have damaged the waste gate when I gutted the rear pre-cat?  Is it
> that cold that I am just getting that much boost?  I am going out now to
> unplug the solenoid and see if it goes down to 6psi where is should be.
> Maybe the line going to the boost controller is loose or cut.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.PACarSearch.com
> If you love cars, check out
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
> ------------Still under construction---------------
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 23:07:13 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Kevin'" <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Over Boost fixed.... muffler question
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 23:08:25 -0700
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Mufflers?  What mufflers?

3" custom dual 'Y' pipe in back here, we still have all 3 cats, but on our
stealthTT we had none, was a nice sound (if yer into that)

-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin [mailto:Kevin@pacarsearch.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 9:10 PM
To: Kevin; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Over Boost fixed.... muffler question


    Ok, I figured it out myself. :-)  The line from the Y-pipe to the bottom
of the solenoid was half off.  It looked like it was connected but when I
tugged on it, it came off.  All is well and the car runs like a dream.  I
don't know how it ran from the showroom since I bought it used, but it's
running better than it ever has.
    I notice a little more rumble from the exhaust since the cats are no
longer there, but I want more.  Anyone ever try changing just the mufflers
to say Flowmaster's or Super Traps?  I know Flowmaster's will drone but I
like them, I have no experience with the Super Traps.

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.PACarSearch.com
If you love cars, check out
http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
------------Still under construction---------------
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin <Kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 1999 10:55 PM
Subject: Team3S: Over Boost


> First some background.
> -1991 Stealth TT
> -Just finished the 60,000 mile service myself plus gutted the cats and
> pre-cats
> -Temp is around 45 deg. F colder than I have ever driven the car. (had it
> less than a year)
> -Blitz SSBC
> Now the fun part.  I can not get the boost down......  I only ran the car
up
> to about 4500 RPM but it goes up to 1.1 bar and nothing I do on the
> controller helps.  I turned the gain all the way down, turned the knobs
all
> the way down and even shut the thing off.  Can't figure it out for the
life
> of me.  I checked all the hoses, everything seems tight.  I do notice a
big
> difference in spool up time since I gutted the cats.... much quicker now.
> Could I have damaged the waste gate when I gutted the rear pre-cat?  Is it
> that cold that I am just getting that much boost?  I am going out now to
> unplug the solenoid and see if it goes down to 6psi where is should be.
> Maybe the line going to the boost controller is loose or cut.
>
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
> Thanks,
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.PACarSearch.com
> If you love cars, check out
> http://www.pacarsearch.com/motorhead
> ------------Still under construction---------------
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Oct 27 23:25:37 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Cracked rotor pictures
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 01:25:14 CDT
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Hey everyone,

I've got some pictures of Oskar's cracked rotor from his racing at Brainard
International Speedway.  It is at:

http://www.mn3s.org/brainard-racing99.html

There is also a picture of his melted Stillen Metal Matrix pads, on that
same page.

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 06:52:04 1999
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To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "stealth@starnet.net" <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
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REAL underdrive harmonic dampeners, that ACTUALLY DAMPEN
harmonics like the stock crankshaft dampener (unlike the  junk  IMO
Unorthodox "PULLEY") are newly available from
Dave Buschur in Ohio!  I had prodded him into making them, and they
have taken a long time to get made, but here we are...

They are NHRA legal so if any weenies complain you are going too fast
with stock dampener you can tell them to shut their pieholes.

Because are underdrive, the require a slightly shorter pulley belt,
which
will have to be determined (Dave doesn't have a 3000/Stealth there to
model it on).

I am getting mine; there are 4 more available/in stock now; I'd
suggest Art Shevack, Mike Mahaffey, and the other leading
edge people consider it for sure; and anybody wanting an
underdrive that still does the MAIN job, DAMPENING!
Cost is about $345 or so, very reasonable for such a device
especially custom...
Save Your Crank and Bearings by contacting Dave at
website  buschurracing.com
phone     1-440-839-1900

Tell him I sent you, gives me a gold star
Jack Tertadian
Atomic Motorsports  :)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 07:17:02 1999
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To: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Cracked rotor pictures
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>
>I've got some pictures of Oskar's cracked rotor from his racing at Brainard
>International Speedway.  It is at:
>http://www.mn3s.org/brainard-racing99.html
>
That's EXACTLY how my PowerSlots broke.  I bet the original rotors came
from the same source.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 08:26:13 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 08:24:38 -0700
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 9B, 13G, 15G relative performances
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"R.G." wrote:

> First, Jack runned up to 17 psi compared to the 14.7 psi we did on the dyno.
> The 13G will then still be on a better efficiency island than the 9B. [snip]
> Second, I guess Jack already had other intercoolers, that decrease the
> intake air and therefore provides more power and less detonation. Last but
> not least, I'm sure Jack runned racing fuel :-)

If these things combined could add ~50hp, then you definitely have a point.  :)

> > have something to do with inadequate airflow (especially to the inter-
> > coolers) on the dyno.  We've all been here before, so I'll just leave it
> > at that.  :)
>
> My temp reading just infront the throttle body where 161°F on the dyno and
> 156°F on the street. There was only a day in between with same ambient. I
> think this means to me that the difference is negligible.

This seems to disagree with two points made by Mike Chapleski back
on August 5th:

>>4) During our dyno runs the ambient was 50 F deg the intake temp at the
>>start of my dyno was 104 deg F and the intake peak after about 20 seconds
>>of running at 12 psi was 224 deg F!!!  So I do think that the fan was not
>>very effective.  However, I cannot compare this to the real world, because
>>I have not been able to find the proper hill where I can maintain 12 psi of
>>boost in fourth gear.  The most I have been able to maintain was about 10
>>seconds which resulted in a peak of 139 deg F.

I would not consider this difference negligible, and Mike also attributed it
to the effectiveness of the fan.  Maybe the numbers you mentioned above
(161F and 156F) are temps at idle or at steady cruising?  There must be
a reason why Mike had such different readings.

Here's something else Mike wrote which again brings up the issue that
the car must be moving in order for the engine and air charge temps to
sufficiently decrease.  Thus, letting the car idle with the hood open is
not enough:

>>3)  If I turn off the car, after fully heating up, let it sit 10-15 minutes, then
>>start it back up, the intake temp is about 20-25 deg above ambient and it
>>takes about 10 minutes of HIGHWAY driving to get it back down to 10
>>degrees difference.  For dragracers that let their cars sit between runs, this
>>is something that you should REALLY be monitoring.

> The intake temp is definitely lowered with a larger intercooler that finally
> causes less detonation/knock and therefore also causes less retard. My temp
> dropped to 112°F with water injection!

That is very impressive indeed.

> For "normal" boost of 15psi as well as the pre-cats still in place, the
> exhaust mods did not do anything to power ! BUT, the dp without a cat helps
> in better spool-up and therefore you gain in trap speed.... but not
> horsepower.

We'll never know for sure until somebody makes runs at the track on
the same day with and without the catalytic/exhaust system.  They could
throw 75lbs weight in the car so that any differences won't be due to
weight.  Better spoolup should get you off the line quicker, but I don't
think that by itself would increase trapspeeds because the rest of the
run is full throttle (near redline) anyways.

> interestingly, noone has maps for 9B, 13G or even 15G or 17G.

That's too bad.  Maybe TEC can provide them to somebody so we
can study them.

> I agree that the 15G would be the right solution and I would take them now
> with what I know today. The available stuff doesn't make any ECU mod
> necessary. Even more, I found a retarded timing with the first chipset and
> it was somewhat less powerful as the stock ECU !!

Maybe you might consider going back to the stock ECU?  I'm really
wondering how well the gtpro turbos like your 368s (or the 355s which
Brian says are better than 15Gs) will compare to the 15Gs.  I guess
I'll just have to wait and see.

--Errin

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 09:04:09 1999
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From: "Andrew C. Ohnstad" <andy@andysaudio.com>
To: Rah <rah@isd.net>
cc: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dumb Question, but curious
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Radar should not be a problem.  Removing the front plate is not gonna
help you much against radar.  Radar needs any big surface to bounce off
of and our cars certainally provide that.

Laser on the other hand is a different story.  Without a front licence
plate you're denying the officer the flat surface he needs to get a lazer
reading.  Of course nothing to keep them from shooting your rear licence
plate after you've passed, assuming they were hidden well enough that you
wouldn't have had time to slow down.

If your city/state uses primarially radar then you're about screwed.  Get
a good detector and be careful.  Radar jammers fall into two categorys,
those that don't work, and those that are illegeal.

Laser, on the other hand can be sucessfully jammed legally.  I don't
remember right now (but I can find) a couple sources for legal laser
jammers that work very well.  There was one jammer in particular (which I
used to run on my car in Maryland, which is almost exclusivley laser)
which would not even give a reading to a lazer gun fired point blank at
it.  Again, the rear of the car is unprotected so if the officer is well
hidden you're busted.

=-=Andrew (ex-cop)
"Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
'94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power

On Sun, 24 Oct 1999, Rah wrote:

> Hello all,
>     Recently I took the front license plate off my 93 Stealth RT, now
> that plate is required in my state so hush-hush.  I know from people
> I've seen on the road that it's not unusual at all.
>     The real question, not to get my or anybody elses hopes up, but I
> can't help but wonder how well a police officer can get a radar signal
> off of this car.  From my experience in another car club, and
> information an ex-military man was able to give me on how radar requires
> a very specific reflection, it does make you wonder.
>
> Anybody know?  Anyone put a gun to it and found out?  I'm not relying on
> it yet, but it'd be interesting to know what y'all think,
>
> --Rich
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 09:10:26 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 09:09:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Andrew C. Ohnstad" <andy@andysaudio.com>
To: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
cc: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Dumb Question, but curious
In-Reply-To: <022201bf1e9e$06c4f3a0$10c9c9c9@benson>
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On Sun, 24 Oct 1999, Benson "elmagoo" Russell wrote:

> determine (or rather GUESS) which car was doing the returned speed.  One
> fact to note though is that big vehicles (trucks in other words) will ALWAYS
> return the strongest signal no matter what.  So if a trucks doing 50, and
> you zip buy at 80, he'll get a 50 reading because the trucks return signal
> is much stronger.  This is another reason why you should always ask to see
> the gun reading for yourself when they pull you over (I've heard of cops
> trying to pull a fast one where they didn't even clock you at all).  If they
> refuse, you make them write that on the ticket and point that one out to the
> judge :).

Yup, and another variation on the theme is moving radar.  It basically
shoots out two radar pulses and attempts to figure out how fast the
cruiser is going and how fast you are going.  It relies on the fact that
there will be a sign, overpass, building, something which is not moving to
provide the reference for the cruiser's speed.  If the officer is using
moving radar and is anywhere near a tractor trailer, rv, etc. the radar
unit will not be able to figure out the crusier's speed and give the
officer a reading well over 150mph.  Most officers know better but there
are always a few new/overenthusiastic guys out there, and sure, our cars
WILL do 150. :)

> another little trick of note that I read in Car and Driver a long ways back
> on ways to defeat laser radar when they were first introduced.  One method
> they came up with and tested is to put an extremely high candle-watt powered
> light (like the ones the cops use) on the front of your car near the lisence
> plate (because that's where they aim their laser guns due to the lisence
> plates highly reflective surface).  Aim it forward, and then put an
> infra-red filter on it (so it blocks all spectrum of light except ir).  This

The lazer jammers that I discussed basically do this, but in a pulsing,
"strobe light" method.  As I said there was one that worked REALLY well.


=-=Andrew
"Traveling At The Speed of Thought" --- Teenage FanClub
'94 Mitsubishi 3000 GT -- Eclipse, Boston Acoustics, Rockford Power


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 09:47:22 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:46:41 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Re: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
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Sounds like a worthwhile investment to me.
Tks.
Arty

In a message dated 10/28/99 6:52:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
xwing@execpc.com writes:

<< Subj:     REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date:  10/28/99 6:52:27 AM Pacific Daylight Time
From:  xwing@execpc.com (xwing)
Reply-to:  xwing@execpc.com
To:    stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com (Sirius 3000GT Mail List),
stealth@starnet.net (stealth@starnet.net)

REAL underdrive harmonic dampeners, that ACTUALLY DAMPEN
harmonics like the stock crankshaft dampener (unlike the  junk  IMO
Unorthodox "PULLEY") are newly available from
Dave Buschur in Ohio!  I had prodded him into making them, and they
have taken a long time to get made, but here we are...

They are NHRA legal so if any weenies complain you are going too fast
with stock dampener you can tell them to shut their pieholes.

Because are underdrive, the require a slightly shorter pulley belt,
which
will have to be determined (Dave doesn't have a 3000/Stealth there to
model it on).

I am getting mine; there are 4 more available/in stock now; I'd
suggest Art Shevack, Mike Mahaffey, and the other leading
edge people consider it for sure; and anybody wanting an
underdrive that still does the MAIN job, DAMPENING!
Cost is about $345 or so, very reasonable for such a device
especially custom...
Save Your Crank and Bearings by contacting Dave at
website  buschurracing.com
phone     1-440-839-1900
  >>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 09:53:45 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:53:13 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Methanol - Opinions
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Has anyone (Dr. J.T) considered using Methanol ?
Arty
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 10:23:35 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:23:08 EDT
Subject: Team3S: "New" Improved lifters 4 sale
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, stealth@starnet.net, stealth@dragnet.com
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I had just bought a full set (24) of the new improved lifters for my 91 VR-4.
These fit any year car. These are improved with larger oiling holes to
prevent clogging and lifter noise. They are new still UNOPENED in the bag
from Talla Mitsu. I''d rather sell them then return them. Anybody interested
I'll take a fast $225. and I'll ship too.
BTW, I ended up needing solid lifters to achieve the 1000HP I was after.
Arty 91 VR-4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 11:53:57 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Methanol - Opinions
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For some reason I seem to remember something about needing a little more
than 2 times of the amount of methanol verses gasoline to create a
Stoichiometric A/F ratio.  Though, I would imagine it burns A LOT cooler.  I
would check out some books on the subject, might be worth looking into for a
full race prepped car.

John Basol
System Management Services


-----Original Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com [SMTP:Aso8@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:53 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Methanol - Opinions

Has anyone (Dr. J.T) considered using Methanol ?
Arty
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 12:11:38 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
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> Sounds like a worthwhile investment to me.

Damn, as usual, I'm still skeptic and don't see a real gain out of it.
Fortunately, there is now an UDVP with dampener and this will prevent any
problems. But I just can't see the gain here. Slowing down the accessories
is ok but do you guys know how much power they are consuming ?

I once played with such pulley on the Camaro and some of us really saw a
gain ... 2-5hp. This is within any tolerances on the dyno and of a few
degrees on the ambient. The drawback is now a much harder steering for daily
driving, dimming lights during idleing and slowing down fans at idle as
well. And finally, paying $345 for a few horses including the side effects
... sorry, but I'm not amazed regarding the bang of the buck. 15hp gain and
we can speak about.

If one is building a real race car I'm sure he already throwed away the AC,
disconnected the alternator and probably drives without power steering. Even
more he disabled ECS and AWS (if it is possible to disable it) as well as
ABS.

If one is running 12.5 and then is installing an UDVP on the same day and
then runs 12.3, I'd say ok, but how much are 5 hp worth in time ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 12:11:40 1999
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References: <6C09D9B03136D31183980090276269655F7669@EXCHANGE1> <38151F54.41A2564C@u.washington.edu> <38154BA1.AEF94250@execpc.com> <381640FD.4C55F31D@u.washington.edu> <00c701bf20b6$60353660$12eee6c2@rg> <38186AB6.86560081@u.washington.edu>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 9B, 13G, 15G relative performances
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:59:11 +0200
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> >>4) During our dyno runs the ambient was 50 F deg the intake temp at the
> >>start of my dyno was 104 deg F and the intake peak after about 20
seconds
> >>of running at 12 psi was 224 deg F!!!  So I do think that the fan was
not
> >>very effective.  However, I cannot compare this to the real world,
because
> >>I have not been able to find the proper hill where I can maintain 12 psi
of
> >>boost in fourth gear.  The most I have been able to maintain was about
10
> >>seconds which resulted in a peak of 139 deg F.
>
> I would not consider this difference negligible, and Mike also attributed
it
> to the effectiveness of the fan.  Maybe the numbers you mentioned above
> (161F and 156F) are temps at idle or at steady cruising?  There must be
> a reason why Mike had such different readings.

We also discussed about the readings as mine were significantly lower
compared to the two Stealths and almost the same mods. We thought about the
design differences of the front bumper as my 93 seemed to have larger
openings than the 2nd gen Stealths. As the IC are the same we came to the
conclusion that this must be the larger 13G turbos. At 1 bar the cars have
the same power although the intake temp was higher on the Stealth than on my
3000GT. We did not found any bad due to this extremely high intake reading
but for sure on both turbos the efficiency was not good anymore but mine
resulted in a better discharge temp.

Ahem, please note that I'm not doing idle tests ;-)

> >>3)  If I turn off the car, after fully heating up, let it sit 10-15
minutes, then
> >>start it back up, the intake temp is about 20-25 deg above ambient and
it
> >>takes about 10 minutes of HIGHWAY driving to get it back down to 10
> >>degrees difference.  For dragracers that let their cars sit between
runs, this
> >>is something that you should REALLY be monitoring.

In reality it is much worser ! I saw a 50°F increase at 90°F ambient.

> > interestingly, noone has maps for 9B, 13G or even 15G or 17G.
>
> That's too bad.  Maybe TEC can provide them to somebody so we
> can study them.

We already tried TEC and they say this is secret ... Only Turbonetics is
displaying their maps on their site. But maybe one has a good link ;-)

> Maybe you might consider going back to the stock ECU?  I'm really
> wondering how well the gtpro turbos like your 368s (or the 355s which
> Brian says are better than 15Gs) will compare to the 15Gs.  I guess
> I'll just have to wait and see.

Yes, I'll probably go back as the programs I got from G-Force are less
powerful than my stock EU ECU or a stock US ECU (I have logs from all
three). But the less timing causes much lesser knock and I can somewhat
crank down fuel as well as boost up :-) The rest does the WIS. But I hacked
the programs and know where to change the maps. I'm just having not enough
time to do everything :-(

Regarding the 368s .... I'm currentl calculating around and today it just
looks like one turbo would be enough, haha. No really, at low rpm it seems
that I run into the surge line but I'm not yet sure. More calcs to do.

Later
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 12:43:05 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:02:33 -0500
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I have a '95 base 3000gt and have installed an Unorthodox Racing underdrive
pulley, and I'll swear by it anyday.  I've also installed the K&N air
filter, and I noticed way more improvement after putting the drive pulley on
than I did with the air-filter (granted, I know the real improvement with
the K&N will show when I upgrade the exhaust system).  One thing to remember
with the 3000/stealths is that the alternators on these things are highly
efficient as compared to american cars.  I've heard stories of rustang
owners putting them on and not having enough power to run the stereo system
properly afterwards :).

After putting on the pulley, at idle I get just over 12V on the meter as
opposed to the just over 13V at idle from before.  Yes the headlights are
slightly (and I mean slightly) dimmer during idle than before, but nothing
else has suffered on the car (the climate system works great, and being in
Oklahoma where it's hot it does get used often :), and the stock Infinity
system with the 200 watt power amp still cranks 'em loud 'N proud with no
dips in power or sound quality).  When I actually apply the gas and start to
drive, then it kicks up to almost 14V on the meter, which is plenty of juice
to run everything no problems at all.

The moment I drove it away from the shop with the pulley on I noticed a good
improvement in power.  Before the pulley was put on, the throttle response
was slightly hesitant (as in I'd push the pedal, and it would take about a
half-second before the tach really started moving).  After putting on the
pulley, throttle response has become more instant, I'd push the pedal and
the tach would respond instantly.  As to how much specific horsepower it's
provided I couldn't say exactly since I don't know where to go to get that
tested, but I know the extra power is there (dropped about .5 seconds off of
my 0-60 times).

whether or not you pick the pulley that Mr. Tertadian is talking about, or
the Unorthodox one is of course up to you (I'm assuming that the pulley Mr.
Tertadian is talking about does a little more than the Unorthodox one,
considering it's over double the price?).  But again, I've enjoyed mine
since I've gotten it, a great affordable upgrade (cost me about $170 +
installation).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 12:56:21 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: New & Improved lifters?
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:57:32 -0700
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Is there a specific year Mitsu started using these?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 12:57:59 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 12:59:14 -0700
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Depends, whats the intertial mass lost by using this in place of stock?

Theres huge torque increases in reducing the mass of your driveline.

In road racing, such a MOD would be very very valuable.



-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:37 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!


> Sounds like a worthwhile investment to me.

Damn, as usual, I'm still skeptic and don't see a real gain out of it.
Fortunately, there is now an UDVP with dampener and this will prevent any
problems. But I just can't see the gain here. Slowing down the accessories
is ok but do you guys know how much power they are consuming ?

I once played with such pulley on the Camaro and some of us really saw a
gain ... 2-5hp. This is within any tolerances on the dyno and of a few
degrees on the ambient. The drawback is now a much harder steering for daily
driving, dimming lights during idleing and slowing down fans at idle as
well. And finally, paying $345 for a few horses including the side effects
... sorry, but I'm not amazed regarding the bang of the buck. 15hp gain and
we can speak about.

If one is building a real race car I'm sure he already throwed away the AC,
disconnected the alternator and probably drives without power steering. Even
more he disabled ECS and AWS (if it is possible to disable it) as well as
ABS.

If one is running 12.5 and then is installing an UDVP on the same day and
then runs 12.3, I'd say ok, but how much are 5 hp worth in time ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 13:03:10 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:04:22 -0700
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I gained nearly 35FtLbs in torque, and 11Hp on my 87 Turbo Supra by replacing
the 33lbs OEM driveshaft with a 21lb one-piece steel shaft, and replacing the
OEM belt/clutch fan with a Black Magic electric fan.

The driveshaft was about 90% of the torque gain and 0 HP gain, the fan was the
remaining torque and all HP gain.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mohler, Jeff [mailto:jeff.mohler@netapp.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 12:59 PM
To: 'R.G.'; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!


Depends, whats the intertial mass lost by using this in place of stock?

Theres huge torque increases in reducing the mass of your driveline.

In road racing, such a MOD would be very very valuable.



-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 11:37 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!


> Sounds like a worthwhile investment to me.

Damn, as usual, I'm still skeptic and don't see a real gain out of it.
Fortunately, there is now an UDVP with dampener and this will prevent any
problems. But I just can't see the gain here. Slowing down the accessories
is ok but do you guys know how much power they are consuming ?

I once played with such pulley on the Camaro and some of us really saw a
gain ... 2-5hp. This is within any tolerances on the dyno and of a few
degrees on the ambient. The drawback is now a much harder steering for daily
driving, dimming lights during idleing and slowing down fans at idle as
well. And finally, paying $345 for a few horses including the side effects
... sorry, but I'm not amazed regarding the bang of the buck. 15hp gain and
we can speak about.

If one is building a real race car I'm sure he already throwed away the AC,
disconnected the alternator and probably drives without power steering. Even
more he disabled ECS and AWS (if it is possible to disable it) as well as
ABS.

If one is running 12.5 and then is installing an UDVP on the same day and
then runs 12.3, I'd say ok, but how much are 5 hp worth in time ?

Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 13:19:15 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
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Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
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>Depends, whats the intertial mass lost by using this in place of stock?

>Theres huge torque increases in reducing the mass of your driveline.

>In road racing, such a MOD would be very very valuable.

There's a big difference.  I still have my stock pulley at home, I can take
a picture of it if anybody is interested in seeing what it looks like (but
I'm not taking off the Unorthodox one since I can't get to it now ;).  But
the Unorthodox pulley is about half the size of the original, and definately
weighs a lot less (probably a lighterweight material, and it's less 'solid'
meaning that if you've seen a picture of one
it's not completely solid filled if that makes any sense the way I described
it :).

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 13:19:41 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: straightening intercooler (or radiator) fins
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 14:19:32 -0600
From: Dave Monarchi <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
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Does anyone know any great tricks for this?  both of my ICs have a sizable
area of mangled fins, and I don't relish the thought of spending hours
straightening every one individually.. 

thanks!


Dave

95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
r
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 13:22:45 1999
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To: "'Dave Monarchi'" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: straightening intercooler (or radiator) fins
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 13:23:54 -0700
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I used a wood ice-cream stick.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Monarchi [mailto:monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 1:20 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: straightening intercooler (or radiator) fins



Does anyone know any great tricks for this?  both of my ICs have a sizable
area of mangled fins, and I don't relish the thought of spending hours
straightening every one individually.. 

thanks!


Dave

95 Black 3000GT VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60
r
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 14:59:31 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 16:59:25 -0500
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> I have a '95 base 3000gt and have installed an Unorthodox
> Racing underdrive pulley, and I'll swear by it anyday.

Hmm, you'll be swearing AT it when your main bearings are shot.

> whether or not you pick the pulley that Mr. Tertadian is
> talking about, or the Unorthodox one is of course up to
> you (I'm assuming that the pulley Mr. Tertadian is
> talking about does a little more than the Unorthodox one,
> considering it's over double the price?).  But again, I've
> enjoyed mine since I've gotten it, a great affordable
> upgrade (cost me about $170 + installation).

The Buschur pulleys contain a torsional damper assembly (essentially a section of rubber connecting the two halves of the pulley).  This allows the pulley to act as a damper against the harmonic vibrations in the crankshaft caused by the cylinders firing.  It is very important to keep the harmonics damped in some fashion to prevent bearing damage.  Of course, the Unorthodox folks will say that the accessories provide this damping, which is completely false as a counterweight is required to perform the damping action.  The counterweight is supplied by the rubber section allowing the pulley to twist and let the inertia of the outer pulley ring counteract the torsional flex of the crank.

Anyways...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 15:05:19 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Matt Jannusch'" <MAJ@BigCharts.com>,
        3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 15:06:34 -0700
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The Supra list I read refuses to belive this as well.

Some users have had "odd" wear on #1 main bearing set when a non-related rebuild
time came up, and others report no problems over the last few years.

Let me insert a message from that list, with some Supra related date (thats
relevant here in sprit as well)

---
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 1999 21:12:27 -0600
From: Reg Riemer <supras@home.com>
To: "mkiv@mkiv.com List" <mkiv@mkiv.com>
Subject: underdrive pulley's ver's Toyota Stock

Correct Guys.  Rob and Bryce are tack on here.  Toyota uses Dual mode damper
pulley designs in all their engines.  The factory stock pulley is designed
to absorb both torsional and bending lateral vibration from the crankshaft.

The factory stock pulley helps the crankshaft deal with high vibration in
the 400 Hz range after the #1 piston fires.  Overall this has many benefits
on the bottom end.  It helps the crank deal with high continuous loads as
well as overall bearing life, not to mention overall engine life.  Also the
driveline will have a more pleasing sound with very little 400Hz vibe's
setting up.

Don't  remove the stock crank pulley on any of your toyota turbo or NA
engine's.  To replace the factory engineered pulley with something made by a
person or company that does not understand the complete engine design will
hurt the performance/reliability of your Toyota not help it.

Cheers guys.


Reg Riemer


\
SONiC
Supra Owner Network in Canada
See the SONiC web site @
www.supras.com/~riemer/sonic/sonic.htm
/

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:MAJ@BigCharts.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 2:59 PM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!


> I have a '95 base 3000gt and have installed an Unorthodox
> Racing underdrive pulley, and I'll swear by it anyday.

Hmm, you'll be swearing AT it when your main bearings are shot.

> whether or not you pick the pulley that Mr. Tertadian is
> talking about, or the Unorthodox one is of course up to
> you (I'm assuming that the pulley Mr. Tertadian is
> talking about does a little more than the Unorthodox one,
> considering it's over double the price?).  But again, I've
> enjoyed mine since I've gotten it, a great affordable
> upgrade (cost me about $170 + installation).

The Buschur pulleys contain a torsional damper assembly (essentially a section
of rubber connecting the two halves of the pulley).  This allows the pulley to
act as a damper against the harmonic vibrations in the crankshaft caused by the
cylinders firing.  It is very important to keep the harmonics damped in some
fashion to prevent bearing damage.  Of course, the Unorthodox folks will say
that the accessories provide this damping, which is completely false as a
counterweight is required to perform the damping action.  The counterweight is
supplied by the rubber section allowing the pulley to twist and let the inertia
of the outer pulley ring counteract the torsional flex of the crank.

Anyways...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 16:33:19 1999
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From: "Michael McWilliams" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To: "Sirius 3000GT Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 13G vs 15G
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:23:46 -0400
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Well, my rear turbo is shot so it looks like its upgrade time!  I'm trying
to weigh the pros and cons of 13G vs 15G turbos (cost aside).  My existing
mods are: K&N, gutted pre-cats, ATR Eliminator downpipe, ATR cat-back,
Hallman boost controller, Magnecore wires, NGK plugs @.34

While I may take the car to the strip every once in a while, this car is my
daily driver.  I'm leaning towards the 15Gs, but I'm curious to hear your
opinions.  Is there that big of a lag difference between the two upgrades?
I don't mind a little more lag than stock, just as long as it doesn't really
mess up the streetability of the car.  Has anyone out there installed the
15Gs in their street car and wished they'd gone with 13Gs instead?

Thanks for any input.

BTW, I DO plan on upgrading the fuel system and adding water injection at
some point.



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 16:54:49 1999
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Nope.  Then I couldn't drive it around, I do NOT need another
race-only car!  They stink, eat up rubber and aluminum etc...
just not for me.
Jack

Aso8@aol.com wrote:

> Has anyone (Dr. J.T) considered using Methanol ?
> Arty
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 17:17:11 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 18:36:33 -0500
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I emailed and asked Matt over at www.dynamicracing1.com (an online
store/site dedicated to 3000/stealth performance) about the Unorthodox
pulley's causing bearing problems because of not having a damper on it.  He
says as far as he knows all the bad press around the Unorthodox pulley's is
speculation at best, but there's no hard evidence that has linked motor
failures to them.  He's currently had his on his Stealth TT for about 2 1/2
years now, and his partner Dan about 2 months less than that with no
problems at all (and matt drives his car hard, doing shifts at about 7500
rpm (he's raised the rev limiter)).  He's also said that he's sold 100's of
them and hasn't received one single complaint about them either.

If something ever happens to my car as a direct result of it I'll definately
let you guys know about it, but 2 1/2 years is good long time to 'field
test' a part for potential problems :).  Take from this what ya will of
course, but I'm still happy with my purchase :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 17:24:32 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:24:26 -0500
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> I emailed and asked Matt over at www.dynamicracing1.com (an online
> store/site dedicated to 3000/stealth performance) about the Unorthodox
> pulley's causing bearing problems because of not having a
> damper on it.  He says as far as he knows all the bad press around
> the Unorthodox pulley's is speculation at best, but there's no hard
> evidence that has linked motor failures to them.

Buschur Racing made comments about there being excessive main bearing wear on their cars that used the Unorthodox pulleys.  I'd imagine that not a lot of people tear down their motors as often as they do, and therefore never see the damage.  They haven't been out that long, so its hard to tell what the long-term effects of them are.  All I know is that it is difficult to ignore the laws of physics.

Your mileage may vary, as always...

No Unorthodox pulleys on any of my* cars...

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 19:41:09 1999
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Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 21:41:04 -0500
From: Trevor James <Trevor@kscable.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Tach dropping off to 0 at WOT....
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At WOT my tach will just fall to 0 and bounce between what it should read and 0...The
dealerships had the car since Tues morn and they can get it to duplicate, just don't
know where to start looking to fix it. Seems like it does it more when underhood temps
are high. Any Ideas????

96 R/T TT (HKS EVC IV@1.00Bar, Plugs@.034", Accel Wires, Borla, K&N FIPK)
92 GMC Typhoon

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Oct 28 19:52:29 1999
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Reply-To: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
From: "Gil Gomes" <gil@warpedweb.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: weird noises when cold...
Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 22:52:10 -0400
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    I've noticed, recently, that when my '95 3KGT base is cold I hear this
pretty strange
noise emanating from the passenger side front.  It's a rather fast thump..
thump... thump
sound that goes away as the car warms up.  I tend to think it might be the
strut.  It almost
sounds like the strut is binding.  I bought the car in April and only
recently has the weather
been cold enough for this problem to pop up.  Once I've gone a few miles...
the sound just
plain disappears.  Any ideas?  The sound isn't all that loud, and it's
almost sub-sonic.

-R

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 05:26:03 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Tach dropping off to 0 at WOT....
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Trevor,

> At WOT my tach will just fall to 0 and bounce between what it should read and 0...The
> dealerships had the car since Tues morn and they can get it to duplicate, just don't
> know where to start looking to fix it. Seems like it does it more when underhood temps
> are high. Any Ideas????

I'd start at the wires first ! Due to the design of the ignition stuff, you "might" get problems with differnet wires. The already heard bad stories about the Accel ones and that they may cause a short when touching the heads (Camaro buddies reported this). With "low resistance" wires, the current flowing through the power tranistors can get higher and this causes the tach sensor in the same case to be irritated. I got almost the same problem when I tested the B&M ignition amplifier as the tach jumped around the 3000 mark due to the increased power. The current is not that high with my Magnecors as their resistance is much higher than the Accel ones. The problem can really be related to temperatures as the wires will heat up too.

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 05:59:53 1999
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> says as far as he knows all the bad press around the Unorthodox pulley's is
> speculation at best, but there's no hard evidence that has linked motor
> failures to them.  He's currently had his on his Stealth TT for about 2 1/2
> years now, and his partner Dan about 2 months less than that with no
> problems at all (and matt drives his car hard, doing shifts at about 7500
> rpm (he's raised the rev limiter)).  He's also said that he's sold 100's of
> them and hasn't received one single complaint about them either.

Yes, if I want to sell stuff I also would say that I sold hundereds of them. But hey, it's the only pulley they have to sell :-) For the knowledge on our cars, dynamic-racing are not the first address to talk to. They sell parts and know what is sold good and what bad.

AFAIK, there is no report on a 3S cars with broken parts that are related to the UDVP. I often thought about the pulleys and always ended in the decision NOT to put any more stress on my crankshaft ! Therefore, if one REALLY wants to spend so much money for a pulley then he should go with the dampened version.

If one is really wanting to know what power a pulley makes, test it on the track, the same day (should be possible) and we'll know !

> If something ever happens to my car as a direct result of it I'll definately
> let you guys know about it, but 2 1/2 years is good long time to 'field
> test' a part for potential problems :).  Take from this what ya will of
> course, but I'm still happy with my purchase :).

I didn't knew Matt had his car for 2 1/2 year now as well as the pulley was available then. I started some long time ago with tunign the car and I firstly heard of the pulley about 1 1/2 years ago. But I may be wrong ;-)

Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 06:58:34 1999
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From: Matt Jannusch <MAJ@BigCharts.com>
To: 3000GT Mailing <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:58:26 -0500
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> I didn't knew Matt had his car for 2 1/2 year now as well as
> the pulley was available then. I started some long time ago
> with tunign the car and I firstly heard of the pulley about 1
> 1/2 years ago. But I may be wrong ;-)

I also noticed on their site that none of their customers on their customers page, nor the two owners, have done anything with engine internals to the point where they would see the crank bearings.  Therefore, no first-hand knowledge.  I freely admit I have no first-hand knowledge either, but I also know there's a real good reason that Mitsu uses the damping pulleys and understand the physics behind the reason.

Their prices are pretty good though...  I'm thinking about getting my turbos (probably 15G), SplitSecond, 550cc injectors and fuel pump from them in the spring.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 07:17:56 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Michael McWilliams'" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
Cc: Sirius 3000GT Mail List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 13G vs 15G
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 07:17:09 -0700
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Michael...

I went straight from 9Bs to 15Gs. I'm not sure why someone would do it
differently (unless their car came with 13Gs, like Roger's). The airflow
improvement is significant, and I've experienced NO loss in streetability as
a result of that (and associated) mods (see list below). The only thing I
would do different is skip the G-Force ECU mod. It has been a royal PITA and
I'm in the process of having Robert send me a jumper to eliminate his
daughter board for comparison testing.

Oh, well..."maybe", given the intake test results recently published, I
"might" buy a K&N versus the HKS if I was doing it again.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs, Michelin SX MXX3 Pilots)

-----Original Message-----
From: Michael McWilliams [mailto:CelMike@email.msn.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 4:24 PM
To: Sirius 3000GT Mail List
Subject: Team3S: 13G vs 15G

<snip>

While I may take the car to the strip every once in a while, this car is my
daily driver.  I'm leaning towards the 15Gs, but I'm curious to hear your
opinions.  Is there that big of a lag difference between the two upgrades?
I don't mind a little more lag than stock, just as long as it doesn't really
mess up the streetability of the car.  Has anyone out there installed the
15Gs in their street car and wished they'd gone with 13Gs instead?

Thanks for any input.

BTW, I DO plan on upgrading the fuel system and adding water injection at
some point.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 08:11:28 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Dave" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N - best price?
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:09:35 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>I figured I'd try to redeem myself by asking a (slightly) more
relevant
>question..  I want to get a FIPK/Aircharger/whatever tomorrow, (or
at
>least order one) and wondering if anyone has found any smokin'
deals..
>
>I found one ad in Sport Compact Car that listed a special on the
Aircharger
>for a 2nd gen Eclipse for $79. (I'm aware of the filter size and
L-bracket
>issues.)  Do any of you know of any other deals?  Is the consensus
still
>that that K&N works best or at least as good as others?

You've probably ordered it by now, but in case you haven't, I'd like
to recommend that you get the FIPK or equivalent.  And the
Aircharger is not what I'd call an equivalent.  It's a much smaller
unit, which I've tried, and it seems just fine, but the difference
in surface area is enough that I'm convinced it flows much less air
than the FIPK.  Further, the FIPK is the only one which comes with a
numbered CARB sticker, which can make a difference when emissions
time comes around (whether you're in California or not).  I was told
by an emissions tech that they know their cars and recognize when an
aftermarket filter is under the hood.  If you're borderline in
emissions it may mean the difference between pass or fail.  The
FIPKs go for between $140 and $150, only $60 to $70 more than the
Aircharger on sale.  If it flows twice as much air than the
Aircharger, that seems like a small price to pay for the best.

Get the FIPK.

Best,

Forrest


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 08:21:25 1999
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From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: "'Bob Forrest'" <bf@bobforrest.com>, Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N - best price?
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:20:59 -0500
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Sorry for the correction Bob, but the Aircharger is about twice as BIG as
the FIPK filter.  It is longer(you will not be able to mount your DSBC
solenoid in the usual place) and is bigger around.  This can only lead to
more potential air flow.  Some members in our club have actually switched to
the Aircharger from the FIPK with positive results(seen at the drag strip).

If you are not concerned with the C.A.R.B sticker, I would go with the
Aircharger(if you can still find one...I heard that they stopped making
them) for $80-90 bucks.

The differences in mounting are trivial. 

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT
www.mn3s.org

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt  Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:  612-957-3736     Pager: 612-601-0881                    
Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com         
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 10:10 AM
To: Dave; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N - best price?


-----Original Message-----From: Dave <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>
>I figured I'd try to redeem myself by asking a (slightly) more
relevant
>question..  I want to get a FIPK/Aircharger/whatever tomorrow, (or
at
>least order one) and wondering if anyone has found any smokin'
deals..
>
>I found one ad in Sport Compact Car that listed a special on the
Aircharger
>for a 2nd gen Eclipse for $79. (I'm aware of the filter size and
L-bracket
>issues.)  Do any of you know of any other deals?  Is the consensus
still
>that that K&N works best or at least as good as others?

You've probably ordered it by now, but in case you haven't, I'd like
to recommend that you get the FIPK or equivalent.  And the
Aircharger is not what I'd call an equivalent.  It's a much smaller
unit, which I've tried, and it seems just fine, but the difference
in surface area is enough that I'm convinced it flows much less air
than the FIPK.  Further, the FIPK is the only one which comes with a
numbered CARB sticker, which can make a difference when emissions
time comes around (whether you're in California or not).  I was told
by an emissions tech that they know their cars and recognize when an
aftermarket filter is under the hood.  If you're borderline in
emissions it may mean the difference between pass or fail.  The
FIPKs go for between $140 and $150, only $60 to $70 more than the
Aircharger on sale.  If it flows twice as much air than the
Aircharger, that seems like a small price to pay for the best.

Get the FIPK.

Best,

Forrest


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 08:31:33 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell'" <benson@2015.com>,
        3000GT Mailing
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:32:46 -0700
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Because nobody has had a problem..is immaterial.

The physics and experience from the V8 world around an un-dampened pulley is
fact regardless of who built the motor.

-----Original Message-----
From: Benson "elmagoo" Russell [mailto:benson@2015.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 1999 4:37 PM
To: 3000GT Mailing
Subject: RE: Team3S: REAL Underdrive Dampeners Available!


I emailed and asked Matt over at www.dynamicracing1.com (an online
store/site dedicated to 3000/stealth performance) about the Unorthodox
pulley's causing bearing problems because of not having a damper on it.  He
says as far as he knows all the bad press around the Unorthodox pulley's is
speculation at best, but there's no hard evidence that has linked motor
failures to them.  He's currently had his on his Stealth TT for about 2 1/2
years now, and his partner Dan about 2 months less than that with no
problems at all (and matt drives his car hard, doing shifts at about 7500
rpm (he's raised the rev limiter)).  He's also said that he's sold 100's of
them and hasn't received one single complaint about them either.

If something ever happens to my car as a direct result of it I'll definately
let you guys know about it, but 2 1/2 years is good long time to 'field
test' a part for potential problems :).  Take from this what ya will of
course, but I'm still happy with my purchase :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 08:32:54 1999
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From: "Mohler, Jeff" <jeff.mohler@netapp.com>
To: "'3s'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Throttle sticking at WOT
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 08:34:03 -0700
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Twice now, Ive been in a street situation where my throttle has STUCk wide open.

Ive eliminated carpet as a culprit, and will be taking car to the dealer soon
(Monday) for diagnosis.


Thoughts?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 08:48:04 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 11:46:58 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Throttle sticking at WOT
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In a message dated 10/29/99 10:36:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
jeff.mohler@netapp.com writes:

<< Twice now, Ive been in a street situation where my throttle has STUCk wide
open.

Ive eliminated carpet as a culprit, and will be taking car to the dealer soon
(Monday) for diagnosis.


Thoughts? >>

Jeff,

    Check your throttle body/butterfly area; the rubber/O ring gasket that is
attached to the inside of your upper y-pipe that connects to the throttle
body may have been sucked in and causing your butterfly linkage control area
to stay wide open;  the dealer will insist you replace the whole y-pipe which
will cost around $120.  Supposedly the rubber gasket/ 0 ring is not available
by itself.

This happened to me once at the Track!!!  Scary feeling when you have no
control of your car!!!!!  And you're flying through the finish line of the
1/4 mile and CANNOT stop!!!!!!!   Yikes!!!!!!

Good luck,

Ahmed "AL-CraZy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 10:15:04 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N - best price?
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:14:39 CDT
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I'll back up Mark on this one too.  The Aircharger is about twice as big as
the FIPK.  And mounting is easy.  All you do is drill a hole about half way
down the bracket and it will fit fine.  I've installed one on my Eclipse and
on two 3/Ses.  The only reason to buy a FIPK is if CARB means something to
you, or you have your heart set on mounting the Blitz soleniod in the extra
space.

Oskar took a picture of the two, side by side.  It is right here:
http://www.mn3s.org/k-ns.jpg  And I paid $75, shipped to my door, for my
Aircharger.

But be warned.  The Airchargers are discontinued, so look hard for one.  :)

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org



>From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
>To: "'Bob Forrest'" <bf@bobforrest.com>, Dave
><monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>,        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N - best price?
>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:20:59 -0500
>
>Sorry for the correction Bob, but the Aircharger is about twice as BIG as
>the FIPK filter.  It is longer(you will not be able to mount your DSBC
>solenoid in the usual place) and is bigger around.  This can only lead to
>more potential air flow.  Some members in our club have actually switched
>to
>the Aircharger from the FIPK with positive results(seen at the drag strip).
>
>If you are not concerned with the C.A.R.B sticker, I would go with the
>Aircharger(if you can still find one...I heard that they stopped making
>them) for $80-90 bucks.
>
>The differences in mounting are trivial.
>
>Mark Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT
>www.mn3s.org
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Mark Wendlandt  Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
>Phone:  612-957-3736     Pager: 612-601-0881
>Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 10:17:48 1999
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Message-ID: <3819D687.5A10C4DA@gat.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:16:55 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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This may be old news, but it is good news to folks with modified 2nd gen cars.

Most of us know about the Datalogger that Todd Day has created.  It is extremely
useful for monitoring engine parameters and tuning a car.  Unfortunately it only
works with '91-93 3000GT's since in '94 they went to the ODB II style
connector. 

While browsing the web recently, I came across a few OBD II Diagnostic
utilities.  There are numerous handheld tools with small displays as well as PC
Software tools.  The most interesting software tools I saw were:
     http://www.easesim.com/products.htm
     http://www.baumtools.com/obd2scan.htm
     http://www.autotap.com/autotap.html
All of them are about the price of Todd's Datalogger, under $400, but the last
one currently does not work with Asian  vehicles.  The most interesting one is
the first from EASE Diagnostics.  Their Personal Basic OBD II Scan Tool sells
for $295 (software & cable) while the Personal Delux OBD II Scan Tool sells for
$395.  They also sell OBD I versions for about the same price.

Has anyone with a 2nd gen car tried using an OBD II diagnostic/scan/datalogger
tool yet?  Can anyone confirm that the '94 and '95 diagnostic ports actually
conform to the OBD II ISO standard (everything from '96 on must conform by law)?
    
--
Drive faster, it is later than you think!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 10:29:21 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Dave" <monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N - best price?
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:28:20 -0700
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My error...  One of the techs at a local Racing Shop called the
small one an Aircharger, and I just assumed that's what is was
called.  Thanks for the correction.  And I agree...  Bigger is
better!

Forrest

-----Original Message-----From: Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)
<MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
>Sorry for the correction Bob, but the Aircharger is about twice as
BIG as
>the FIPK filter.  It is longer(you will not be able to mount your
DSBC
>solenoid in the usual place) and is bigger around.  This can only
lead to
>more potential air flow.  Some members in our club have actually
switched to
>the Aircharger from the FIPK with positive results(seen at the drag
strip).
>
>If you are not concerned with the C.A.R.B sticker, I would go with
the
>Aircharger(if you can still find one...I heard that they stopped
making
>them) for $80-90 bucks.
>
>The differences in mounting are trivial.
>
>Mark Wendlandt






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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 11:46:01 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: K&N - best price?
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Thanks Bob, Curt and Mark for the comments..  I have indeed already ordered
the Aircharger and knew I'd have to get creative if (when!) I get the boost
controller..

for any of you that don't have one yet, FIPK or otherwise, I ordered mine from
Options Auto Salon from their ad in Sport Compact car.  Ended up being $87 to
me..  $79 + $8 shipping..  sorry I didn't mention the name of the place before,
but given that they're discontinued I wanted to make sure I got _my_ order
in..  ;)

1-800-678-2886
http://www.optauto.com/   (the website doesn't mention the filter special)

Dave
95 Black VR4
87 Mica Red GTI G60


Curt Gendron wrote:
>
> I'll back up Mark on this one too.  The Aircharger is about twice as big as
> the FIPK.  And mounting is easy.  All you do is drill a hole about half way
> down the bracket and it will fit fine.  I've installed one on my Eclipse and
> on two 3/Ses.  The only reason to buy a FIPK is if CARB means something to
> you, or you have your heart set on mounting the Blitz soleniod in the extra
> space.
>
> Oskar took a picture of the two, side by side.  It is right here:
> http://www.mn3s.org/k-ns.jpg  And I paid $75, shipped to my door, for my
> Aircharger.
>
> But be warned.  The Airchargers are discontinued, so look hard for one.  :)
>
> later,
> Curt
> http://www.mn3s.org
>
> >From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
> >To: "'Bob Forrest'" <bf@bobforrest.com>, Dave
> ><monarchd@refuge.Colorado.EDU>,        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> >Subject: RE: Team3S: K&N - best price?
> >Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 10:20:59 -0500
> >
> >Sorry for the correction Bob, but the Aircharger is about twice as BIG as
> >the FIPK filter.  It is longer(you will not be able to mount your DSBC
> >solenoid in the usual place) and is bigger around.  This can only lead to
> >more potential air flow.  Some members in our club have actually switched
> >to
> >the Aircharger from the FIPK with positive results(seen at the drag strip).
> >
> >If you are not concerned with the C.A.R.B sticker, I would go with the
> >Aircharger(if you can still find one...I heard that they stopped making
> >them) for $80-90 bucks.
> >
> >The differences in mounting are trivial.
> >
> >Mark Wendlandt
> >'91RT/TT
> >www.mn3s.org
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 12:13:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 12:13:37 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Has anybody else blown out a throttle body adjustment screw?   I've never heard
of such a story so I thought I'd relay mine...

The other day, I floored my car and heard a noticable pop.  The car started
running funny and whistled under boost so I thought I blew off a hose because of
high boost.  Well I opened the hood and my buddy notices a big vacuum sound
coming from the throttle body.  There was a big open hole just above the
throttle position sensor, the hole was threaded.  We looked around for a plug or
screw but couldn't find it, so he made a plug with a small bolt and electrical
tape.  I turned off my boost controller and it held fine up to 6psi.  I tried to
insert an 8mm and a 10mm bolt temporarily and discovered that the hole is 9mm.

Anyway, I called Bill at Norco Mitsu to ask if I could buy this screw or if I
had to buy the whole throttle body which is what I feared.  Off the top of his
head he said there is no listing for the 3000GT, but there was a listing for the
Eclispe and they are the same.  Anyway, the screw and rubber O-ring arrived
yesterday.  It is plastic and lists for over $11!  Bill charged me just over $1
for the screw and $1 for the O-ring.

It is an idle adjustment screw.  I threaded it in all the way, but the car
barely idled until I backed it out some.

Just a little FYI...
Ken
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 12:17:35 1999
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From: "Curt Gendron" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: track times from last weekend
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:17:11 CDT
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Hey everyone,

For those that are interested....  Some of the "Minnesota 3/S" racers went
to the drag strip last Sunday.  We all did pretty good.  If your curious
about our times, you can check them out at:
http://www.mn3s.org/drag-times2.html

later,
Curt
http://www.mn3s.org

______________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 12:32:37 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Throttle body adjustment screw
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:32:16 -0500
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a trick the DSM guys use to counter this is to set the idle according to the
adjustment procedure in the manual (involves a screw near the throttle plate
linkage, the TPS, the idle adustment screw and i believe the ISC, not sure.)
after the idle is perfect, just use a some silicone sealant and squirt a
little on the idle adjustment scew so it won't back out (not too much, or
you wouldn't be able adjust it again if need be.)

Omar
92 r/t

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
> Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 2:14 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Throttle body adjustment screw
>
>
> Has anybody else blown out a throttle body adjustment screw?
> I've never heard
> of such a story so I thought I'd relay mine...
>
> The other day, I floored my car and heard a noticable pop.  The
> car started
> running funny and whistled under boost so I thought I blew off a
> hose because of
> high boost.  Well I opened the hood and my buddy notices a big
> vacuum sound
> coming from the throttle body.  There was a big open hole just above the
> throttle position sensor, the hole was threaded.  We looked
> around for a plug or
> screw but couldn't find it, so he made a plug with a small bolt
> and electrical
> tape.  I turned off my boost controller and it held fine up to
> 6psi.  I tried to
> insert an 8mm and a 10mm bolt temporarily and discovered that the
> hole is 9mm.
>
> Anyway, I called Bill at Norco Mitsu to ask if I could buy this
> screw or if I
> had to buy the whole throttle body which is what I feared.  Off
> the top of his
> head he said there is no listing for the 3000GT, but there was a
> listing for the
> Eclispe and they are the same.  Anyway, the screw and rubber
> O-ring arrived
> yesterday.  It is plastic and lists for over $11!  Bill charged
> me just over $1
> for the screw and $1 for the O-ring.
>
> It is an idle adjustment screw.  I threaded it in all the way, but the car
> barely idled until I backed it out some.
>
> Just a little FYI...
> Ken
> --
> I'm just driving this way to piss you off!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 13:00:07 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 15:57:26 -0400
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Rick Diogo <rick@ceo-consulting.com>
Subject: Team3S: DRB II cable for 94 Dodge Stealth R/T turbo
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Hey guys,

Anyone know where I can get the proper cable for my DRB II to be used on my
94 R/T turbo?  My DRB II works well on my dad's 92 R/T turbo (I have the
Mitsubishi adapter) and it works great on the First gen Talons (and
Eclipse's) but my 94 R/T has the newer style DLC.

According to my factory service manual it shows that the DRB II *can* be
used on the 94 R/T turbo but I need the special (one year only) cable for
it.  My car has the same DLC as the new 99 cars so unfortunately my Mitsu
adapter does me no good.

Any ideas on where to find the cable?  The dealer I used to wrench for
cannot seem to locate the cable in their Miller catalogs...I thought about
calling OTC and asking them.  What do you guys suggest?


Thanks!

Rick
94 R/T turbo
6 speed


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 14:12:47 1999
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Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:20:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
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> > In response to Ken's last post, there is also a
> > copmany that has a OBD II scan-tool that runs for
> > $449. and they are including FREE ground shipping.
> > This is a good package if you have more than one
> > vehicle of different makes. It includes OBD I
> > connectors too. Here is the link:
> > <http://www.autoxray.com>   This package includes
> all
> > the extra connectors but a basic one should run
> about
> > $299.  Hope this helps.
>



=====
-Frank-
                                    "JEEPers"
     EMERGENCY EMAIL: <2016573246@mobile.att.net>
     http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
     http://felicity.acmecity.com/dorm/31/
__________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 15:40:50 1999
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From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "Ken Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
References: <3819D687.5A10C4DA@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 17:45:10 -0500
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'94 and most '95 cars are not OBDII complaint.  They have the OBDII
hardware, but the firmware is different.  To see if your '95 is OBDII
complaint, look on the underside of the hood for a federal emissions
sticker.  At the end of one of them in tiny letters it'll say "OBDI
certified" if your car is not OBDII.  If this is the case, none of the
scanners you listed will work.  I made the mistake of buying the EASE
scanner thinking it'd work anyway, but it didn't.  The only tools I have
found that will work on the '94-95 cars (OBDI firmware, OBDII hardware) is
the OTC 3337 and Snap-On MT-2500.  Unfortunately both are very expensive
($2200 for an import-only version of the Snap-On Tool, not including
datalogging software.)  Another option is a MUT-II which the dealer uses,
but it's not generally for sale to the public and is supposed to be over
$2000 also.  Other than those three, those of us with the mutant-OBD cars
are pretty screwed.

In summary, '94-95 cars are NOT OBDII compliant in any way, ISO or
otherwise.

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software


> This may be old news, but it is good news to folks with modified 2nd gen
cars.
>
> Most of us know about the Datalogger that Todd Day has created.  It is
extremely
> useful for monitoring engine parameters and tuning a car.  Unfortunately
it only
> works with '91-93 3000GT's since in '94 they went to the ODB II style
> connector.
>
> While browsing the web recently, I came across a few OBD II Diagnostic
> utilities.  There are numerous handheld tools with small displays as well
as PC
> Software tools.  The most interesting software tools I saw were:
>      http://www.easesim.com/products.htm
>      http://www.baumtools.com/obd2scan.htm
>      http://www.autotap.com/autotap.html
> All of them are about the price of Todd's Datalogger, under $400, but the
last
> one currently does not work with Asian  vehicles.  The most interesting
one is
> the first from EASE Diagnostics.  Their Personal Basic OBD II Scan Tool
sells
> for $295 (software & cable) while the Personal Delux OBD II Scan Tool
sells for
> $395.  They also sell OBD I versions for about the same price.
>
> Has anyone with a 2nd gen car tried using an OBD II
diagnostic/scan/datalogger
> tool yet?  Can anyone confirm that the '94 and '95 diagnostic ports
actually
> conform to the OBD II ISO standard (everything from '96 on must conform by
law)?
>
> --
> Drive faster, it is later than you think!
>
> Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 16:16:10 1999
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Message-ID: <0.c1672044.254b8497@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 19:15:35 EDT
Subject: Team3S: 6 speed shift thud  (again..sorry guys)
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Okay,  If I attempt to shift between 4k  and 6k  RPM  I usually get no
problems.
BUT  anything under 4k if I shift, I get the tranny "thud" underneath.  I
have attempted the clutch pedal adjustmen in which you raise or lower the
height of the pedal from the firewall.  This has given me no success.    
What else can I do??    
                     Shannon      95 Twin Turbo   6 speed.        Also, 
sometimes I get smooth fluid shifting, and others I get a dry feeling notchy
shifing, any ideas here??

Also,  sometimes it is hard for my tranny to shift into 1st or reverse at
idle  any ideas here?        thanks.         
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 16:20:42 1999
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From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <19991029212041.6617.rocketmail@web304.mail.yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:25:03 -0500
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That won't work with our cars.  We don't use the Ford, GM, or Chrysler SCI
OBDI interfaces.  I've already e-mailed autoxray and here's the response I
got from them.

----- Original Message -----
From: William J. Miller <wjm@autoxray.com>
To: Jeff <spydervr4@home.com>; <support@iitems.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 11:41 AM
Subject: Re: Scantool

> Sorry Jeff:
>
> I don't think our scanner will do the trick.  But keep an eye on the
website
> for future products that will handle your car.
>
> thanks for your inquiry
>
> bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff <spydervr4@home.com>
> To: support@iitems.com <support@iitems.com>
> Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 1:52 AM
> Subject: Scantool
>
>
> >I'm interested in purchasing a scan tool for my car for datalogging
> purposes
> >(to a laptop).  I have been looking for quite a while and I haven't found
> >anything compatible.  I have a 1995 Mitsubishi (ISO) 3000GT that is OBDI
> >certified but has a OBDII connector.  I have tried hooking up a OBDII
> >scanner and it does not work.  Do you have a product that can do what I
> >want?  If possible, I need to be able to monitor in realtime, on a
laptop,
> >RPM, o2 sensor, timing advance, knock sum, and injector pulse width.  Let
> me
> >know - thanks!
> >
> >jeff

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


----- Original Message -----
From: Frank Chen <jeep1978@yahoo.com>
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 4:20 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software

> > > In response to Ken's last post, there is also a
> > > copmany that has a OBD II scan-tool that runs for
> > > $449. and they are including FREE ground shipping.
> > > This is a good package if you have more than one
> > > vehicle of different makes. It includes OBD I
> > > connectors too. Here is the link:
> > > <http://www.autoxray.com>   This package includes
> > all
> > > the extra connectors but a basic one should run
> > about
> > > $299.  Hope this helps.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 16:40:07 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Jeff <spydervr4@home.com>
CC: Sirius <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
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Hi Jeff,

>
> '94 and most '95 cars are not OBDII complaint.  They have the OBDII
> hardware, but the firmware is different.  To see if your '95 is OBDII
> complaint, look on the underside of the hood for a federal emissions
> sticker.  At the end of one of them in tiny letters it'll say "OBDI
> certified" if your car is not OBDII.  If this is the case, none of the
> scanners you listed will work.  I made the mistake of buying the EASE
> scanner thinking it'd work anyway, but it didn't.  The only tools I have
> found that will work on the '94-95 cars (OBDI firmware, OBDII hardware) is
> the OTC 3337 and Snap-On MT-2500.  Unfortunately both are very expensive
> ($2200 for an import-only version of the Snap-On Tool, not including
> datalogging software.)  Another option is a MUT-II which the dealer uses,
> but it's not generally for sale to the public and is supposed to be over
> $2000 also.  Other than those three, those of us with the mutant-OBD cars
> are pretty screwed.
>
> In summary, '94-95 cars are NOT OBDII compliant in any way, ISO or
> otherwise.

This is a bummer.  You're saying that Mitsu used a standard OBD I protocol for
years '91-'93, and ISO standard OBD II for  '96+ (late '95+), but used a
non-standard or proprietary protocol for '94-'95?  Do you know what the '94-'95
protocol is?  Is it OBD I protocol with an OBD II connector?  Can we use an OBD
I scan tool just by changing the connector? 

This is bad news since I plan to upgrade my '91 to a '94-'95.  This is good info
for the FAQ when we sort it out...

Thanks,
Ken
--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 16:49:15 1999
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Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: 6 speed shift thud  (again..sorry guys)]]
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This annoying problem has me stumped too.  Sometimes it shifts perfectly smooth
& easy.  Other times it feels as if the clutch is not fully released (with the
pedal pushed to the floor) and that the clutch is slightly dragging, thus making
it very difficult to shift into gear.  I currently suspect that the clutch
vacuum assist is intermittently bad, maybe it has a leak.

Good luck to us both,
Ken

MitsuVR41@aol.com wrote:
>
> Okay,  If I attempt to shift between 4k  and 6k  RPM  I usually get no
> problems.
> BUT  anything under 4k if I shift, I get the tranny "thud" underneath.  I
> have attempted the clutch pedal adjustmen in which you raise or lower the
> height of the pedal from the firewall.  This has given me no success.
> What else can I do??
>                      Shannon      95 Twin Turbo   6 speed.        Also,
> sometimes I get smooth fluid shifting, and others I get a dry feeling notchy
> shifing, any ideas here??
>
> Also,  sometimes it is hard for my tranny to shift into 1st or reverse at
> idle  any ideas here?        thanks.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
I'm just driving this way to piss you off!

Ken Middaugh (858) 455-4510
General Atomics
San Diego
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 16:55:10 1999
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From: "Jeff" <spydervr4@home.com>
To: "Sirius" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <3819D687.5A10C4DA@gat.com> <020601bf225f$41cb1910$f4320418@grlnd1.tx.home.com> <381A3051.6955F009@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 18:58:39 -0500
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I don't know exactly what protocol Mitsubishi used in the '94-95 cars, but
under my hood it says "OBDI Certified" and the EASE OBD-II scanner didn't
work on any of the 3 OBDII protocols it tried.  What I'm wondering is will a
scanner like the TMO datalogger (www.tmo.com) work on the car with a
different connector.  Unfortunately I will never know because I have already
bought a Snap-On MT2500.  I need to chase down a Snap-On truck and buy the
OBDII connector for it and see if it works with my MT2500's old '92 Import
ROM.  If it does, then it would probably be worthwhile for someone to disect
a scanner like the TMO logger and try to get it to work but I haven't done
it yet, so don't go cutting up your $300 datalogger quite yet:)

jeff
'95 Mitsubishi Spyder VR-4
'90 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX


----- Original Message -----
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
To: Jeff <spydervr4@home.com>
Cc: Sirius <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Friday, October 29, 1999 6:40 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Datalogger & OBD II Scan software


> This is a bummer.  You're saying that Mitsu used a standard OBD I protocol
for
> years '91-'93, and ISO standard OBD II for  '96+ (late '95+), but used a
> non-standard or proprietary protocol for '94-'95?  Do you know what the
'94-'95
> protocol is?  Is it OBD I protocol with an OBD II connector?  Can we use
an OBD
> I scan tool just by changing the connector?
>
> This is bad news since I plan to upgrade my '91 to a '94-'95.  This is
good info
> for the FAQ when we sort it out...

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 17:12:36 1999
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From: "Michael McWilliams" <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To: "stealth-3000" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Fw: Team3S: 13G vs 15G
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 20:03:01 -0400
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-----Original Message-----
From: Michael McWilliams <CelMike@email.msn.com>
To: TurboDrvn@aol.com <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Date: Friday, October 29, 1999 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: 13G vs 15G


><<Hey Mike,
>
>    How do you know that your rear turbo is shot?  do you have anyking of
>minimal boost when driving with that shot rear turbo?  Any oil within your
>y-pipe and Intercooler pipe by the rear turbo?
>
>Thanks......I maybe going through the same symptoms as you.
>
>Ahmed "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4>>
>
>
>Hey Ahmed,
>
>I first knew there was a problem when I saw huge clouds of blue smoke esp.
>on deceleration.  I feared ring damage but a compression check showed very
>healthy numbers.  While I had the rear intercooler pipe off, I noticed a
lot
>of oil in the pipe.  At Roger's suggestion, I made sure the oil was not
>coming through the PCV system, so the only other explanation is that the
>rear turbo is leaking.  I confirmed this conclusion with just about every
>turbo vendor in Turbo magazine as well as others on the 3SI board with the
>same problem.
>
>I still have good boost (15 Psi), however.
>
>Of all the rebuilders/upgraders I spoke with, I've decided to go with Turbo
>Specialties in Alabama.  They will rebuild your turbo for $350 to stock
>specs or they will upgrade them BOTH to 15Gs for $1,150  INCLUDING CLIPPING
>(this is NOT a typo!).  The owner (Reed) said 15Gs are real easy to make
and
>he's blown away by what his competitors charge for them.  I spoke with him
>at length and he seems very knowledgeable.
>
>Good Luck,
>
>Mike
>
>



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 18:16:31 1999
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From: "Paul T. Golley" <ptgolley@ro.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, <stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: APEXi Boost Controller Operation
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 20:10:49 -0500
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My car is stock except for the APEXi Super
AVC-R boost controller.  I set the boost to
1.0 bar, and the BADC (boost actuator duty
cycle) at 66%.  After a few WOT runs to 6000
rpm in second gear, it reached .888 bar (with
some stumble, due, I think, to the large stock
plug gaps).  Now, should I raise or lower the
BADC setting?  Assuming the BADC is the
ratio of the solenoid energized time to the
un-energized time, increasing the BADC setting
should raise the boost level, assuming the
turbos are large enough.  The instruction
manual seems to indicate the opposite, but
most of the translation to English confuses
me.  The question arises however: Is the total
cycle (time energized plus un-energized)
a constant? IE: is the total-cycle frequency
constant?

Another question I have is: If the AVC-R learns
how the boost vs rpm and throttle are related
by making WOT runs to max conditions, does
it un-learn the conditions when you are just
driving "civilly" in daily traffic?  Must you
"re-educate it just before any attempts to use
your maximum performance?

I know there are more knowledgeable folks out
there who can help me on this.  Please respond!
Regards,
ptg

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Oct 29 22:05:24 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "Sirius 3000GT Mail List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: VPC/GCC for sale
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 00:10:13 -0500
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Hey everyone, I have a VPC and  a GCC for sale.

Also a G-Force ECU for a 91-93 VR4.   I will need your old ECU for exchange.
I have about 6 different programs for the ECU for various states of tune.

I'm open for reasonable offers for this equipment. Everything was used for
less than 1 year, so its all in pretty decent shape.


Brad

Check out my home page:  http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/

E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 05:51:59 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <3819F1E1.7D26C4F0@gat.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Throttle body adjustment screw
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:34:38 +0200
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> Eclispe and they are the same.  Anyway, the screw and rubber O-ring
arrived
> yesterday.  It is plastic and lists for over $11!  Bill charged me just
over $1
> for the screw and $1 for the O-ring.

Plastic ???? Mine is copper and came with the O-ring.

> It is an idle adjustment screw.  I threaded it in all the way, but the car
> barely idled until I backed it out some.

If all other stuff is properly adjusted, you can easy turn it out a little.

Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 08:31:37 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 11:30:40 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: straightening intercooler (or radiator) fins
To: monarchd@refuge.colorado.edu, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Eastwood (1-800-345-1178) makes a tool, part #6681 for $10.99 that works
great.  Makes them look new but is a little labor intensive.
--Alden
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 11:38:32 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 20:38:47 +0100
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To: Team 3S Tech List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
CC: Miguel Ramos <mjramos1@compuserve.com>
Subject: Team3S: New A'PEXi SAVC-R installation
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Today I installed the new version of my A'PEXi SAVC-R in a colleague's
'91 VR-4.  After resolving the differences between his stock plumbing
and that on my '94 Stealth, and after a few stupid, time-wasting but
harmless mistakes, everything went smoothly and it worked the first
time.  What a great unit!  I'm jealous and am considering upgrading mine
(I think I could just swap head units and sell my old one with the new
kit)!  A ton of features and flexibility.  Very impressive.

A few notes on installation and setup:

All required parts were included with the kit except for a cap to plug
the stock solonoid and a few small hose clamps (came with plenty of big
clamps, but no small ones!).  This was a relief as it's usually
impossible for me to find what I need at the German hardware stores.

It took us about 30 minutes to study the stock system and get our
bearings.  It was a big help having my Stealth right next to the VR-4
for reference, but there were a few differences in plumbing.  The left
of the two stock solonoids on his '91 was different from that on my '94,
with one hose going in the front and the other hose exiting the bottom.
On mine, the left solonoid is identical to the right, with both hoses
connecting to the front.  I pulled up Roger's Blitz installation page on
the web and was surprised to find that his is like mine, so I'm not sure
when this change was made.

The biggest time-waster for us was attempting to replace the stock 4-way
hose junction above the rear turbo with a 3-way tee included in the
kit.  After fighting to remove the wastegate hoses and pulling up the
4-way junction, we found that A'PEXi's 3-way tee had nipples too small
for the stock hoses.  So we returned the stock junction and simply
plugged the hose that used to connect to the stock solonoid.  Had we
done this right off the bat it would have made life much easier!

The hose plumbing amounted to little more than inserting the solonoid
valve in-line with the hose connecting the rear of the Y-pipe to the
4-way junction and teeing the pressure sensor and mini air filter off of
the FPR hose.  The pressure sensor ended up on the firewall, the
solonoid next to the washer resevoir.

The wiring was also straightforward.  The solonoid and pressure sensor
connectors barely fit through the convenient firewall plug, which we had
removed make this easier.  Putting the plug back in the firewall was NOT
easy, but it finally snapped in place.  The folks who installed my
SAVC-R had left too much wire in the engine compartment, causing my
wiring to melt together and short, so we made sure that the wires were
zip-tied out of harm's way and that all excess was taken up in the
cockpit.

Inside, we decided to mount the head unit in the armrest center
console.  There is enough cable that it can be grabbed from the console
and velcroed to the dash if desired - very nice!  We did not install a
scramble switch so the orange wire was left unused.  We also decided to
connect to IDC rather than RPM on the ECU.

Note that before we began tapping in to ECU wires, we attempted to
verify the ignition power but never saw any current.  We had all three
ECU connectors off and tested both the ECU pin and the harness pin.  We
finally assumed that power must be entering the ECU through one of the
other harness wires and proceeded to splice into power and ground to see
if the head unit would light up, which it did.

The unit setup was straightforward enough.  One cylinder (since we used
IDC rather than RPM), default engine type, default TPS voltage (can be
verified in monitor mode), etc.  It can display four parameters
simultaneously, and we chose boost, BADC, IDC and TPS.

Initial settings were .85 bar @ 50 BADC, which resulted in an overboost
to 1.2 bar!  Yikes!  Didn't feel like 1.2 bars, so I guess his knock
sensor works!  :-|  Backed it off to 35 BADC and it wouldn't peak over
.80 bar.  Ended up with .95 bar @ 45 BADC... quite different from my .95
bar @ 72 BADC!  Can't explain that one, since the solonoids look
identical.  Momentary overboost to 1.05 is slightly higher than my
1.02-03.

Anyway, it was a good experience and it made a big difference.  My
friend is now enjoying the extra power (a bigger difference for him
since he started out with 300 vs 320 HP stock) and has a few hours of
reading and experimenting ahead of him!  I may never get my G-Tech
back... :-)

-Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Abex metallic brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 15:21:13 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 17:20:40 -0500
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Well, it's almost 7 years old, so my 93 Stealth's seatbelt retractor
thingies are well worn out, is there a simple fix(like WD40-ing it?) and
if so how do i get behind the plastic panel to get at it?

Or is it time to drag out the almost expired extended warranty and fuss
with the dodge dealer?

TIA.
--Rich

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 17:02:51 1999
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Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 18:45:36 -0500
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Subject: Team3S: Road racing prep
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With winter approaching, the racing season is over and it's time to plan
for next year. I'd like the list's opinion of the Phase 1 improvements I
have in mind, in hopes that you will keep me from going down the wrong
path, or you will suggest something else to do while I'm "in there."

MY SITUATION:
I attend open track sessions, driver's schools, and hot lapping sessions on
road courses. I do not drag race, I do not abuse my Getrag with full power
shifts, and I rarely  take it to 7200 rpm unless I  am running down a C5 or
whatever. My car is a 94 3000GT VR4, and is superior to every other
street-driven car in my class when driven by drivers with the same
experience as I have (I cannot beat an instructor in an M3, for example,
although I can whup up on M3s in my class).  Nevertheless, I regularly pass
911s, M3s, Z3s, turbo 944s, 5.0 Mustangs and C5 vettes. The only cars that
give a VR4 trouble are twin turbo AWD Porsches, Vipers,  500hp Supras, and
trailered, race-prepped cars. I will be moving up in class next year, where
the cars are stronger and the drivers more experienced, so I need to
upgrade my car a bit.

At tracks like Road America, with its long straights, the car can be under
WOT for 20 or 30 seconds at a time. Boost tends to fall off after a while,
but the car is still stronger down the straights than most. Although some
cars are faster ( such as a C5 corvette), I usually close up on them in the
twisty bits, so they pull over and let me by when we hit a straight. Once I
get ahead, I don't have to worry about their superior top end because they
don't attempt to pass (it's not REAL racing).

We run for 20-30 minutes per session. Engine temp is not a problem. In
fact, after a session, the car is unfazed, as if we had just taken a drive
in the country (we have amazing cars).

The VR4 is under extended warranty for the next 18 months.  Phase 1
improvements have to be such that they do not void my warranty, or can be
quickly removed (such as the manual boost controller) in case I need dealer
service.

CURRENT MODS:
Yokohama A032R race tires, Porterfield rotors, Porterfield race pads, air
ducts to front brakes, water injection to front brakes, inner fender wells
removed to promote air flow. Problem: It EATS brake pads.

Planned Phase 1 mods:

ENGINE:
            Red Line manual boost controller (ordered)
            Spearco Water Injection kit (to cool the input charge under
long periods of WOT) -- is this a good idea? How can I install this for
quick warranty removal?
            Homemade low restriction cat-back exhaust -- stock cat to stock
pipe to Y to two 2.5 in. pipes to two Flowmasters/Ansa or similar straight
through stubby mufflers. Cuts considerable weight.

What else could I do to get 400+ hp? Downpipe? Bigger intercoolers? Gut
the cats?

SUSPENSION:
            Ground Control/Eibach springs, lower car 1 inch all round --
ready to install
             What about new shocks or struts at this point? If so, what do
you suggest?

BRAKES:
             Brad's Big Red Porsche 12-in. calipers with Pagid pads
             Additional 2-in. cooling duct per side, perhaps with air
blowers and water injection.
Porterfield rotors seem to work OK, but they've been turned twice. I'll
need new ones soon. Suggestions?.

Opinions, please. What else would be suitable at this stage? So far, I'll
have a few more horsepower, better springs and lowering for better
cornering, and bigger brakes to stop it.

How about an air dam in front? I'm thinking of making a 2-in. dam all the
way around, perhaps with air ducts embedded,. and then remove the stock air
dam and motor (save weight). Do I run fast enough (top speed 120 mph at
most tracks) to need an air dam?

How about a rear strut brace in the back? Does this help? Where can I get one?

Any other suspension mods worth pursuing, such as bigger sway bars,
polyurethane bushings, etc? Where do you get them?

Yo, Ground Control guys: any advice on the installation, camber settings,
etc? I drive it on the street and to the tracks, so I can't go with too
much radical negative camber. Or can I?  Whaddaya think -- 1/2 degree
negative?

Anything we can do with the four-wheel steering? Can it be adjusted? If so,
what would you adjust?

Where else, besides the exhaust, can I save some weight? I'd like to shave
about 300 lb off it. Lighter wheels are probably out of the question,
because most aftermarket wheels can't take the stress of racing, and the
ones that can take it cost a bloody fortune.

Does anyone make a replacement lower front valence panel that would have
bigger openings for the intercoolers, some brake duct openings, and an air
dam?

After next season, Phase 2 mods! Bigger turbos, bigger jets, and 550 hp!.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!








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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 17:22:52 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Road racing prep
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If yer looking to cut some weight off of the car, have you considered a
carbon-fiber hood from GT-PRO?  I remember seeing a post on the list not to
far back from a gentleman that had one put on and said it was an excellent
quality hood, perfect fit (they weigh only 13 lbs for our size hoods :).
Check out www.gtpro.com

Also, you might want to consider doing something with the rear-seats where
you can make them removable (you don't need them when yer racing, and
that'll probably save some major lbs right there :).  I dunno how one would
go about doing this, but I'm sure some body shop somewhere could fabricate
something for the seats that can make them removable on demand like mini-van
rear seats (since it's yer daily car as well, I take it you wouldn't want to
drive without the rear seats ALL the time :).

Also, do you take extended trips in yer car that require the more
comfortable seats?  You could ditch the regular seats and put in racing
seats that are lighter weight (but I doubt you'd want to do that ;)p.

The last thing I could think of for ditching major weight is to get an
all-around body kit for the car that uses either carbon-fiber, or some other
lightweight material.  Ditching all those steel body panels for lighter
material will definately give you some big savings.  Problem is you'll be
reducing the overall saftey of the car in a crash incident, but again,
that's something you have to decide of course (you'd still have that heavy
duty steel frame :).  That's the only really bad thing about our cars is
they weigh 3700 frikin pouds out of the factory :(.

Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 18:28:57 1999
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        3/S Sirius Mailing List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Road Racing prep
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Hi Rich,

You didn't post this to the Team3S list?

Merritt wrote:

> trailered, race-prepped cars. I will be moving up in class next year, where
> the cars are stronger and the drivers more experienced, so I need to
> upgrade my car a bit.

Do you?  ;)

> get ahead, I don't have to worry about their superior top end because they
> don't attempt to pass (it's not REAL racing).

If you're moving up a level next year, won't you eventually get to a level
where they allow passing in the straights?  If so, then it's a good thing you
are planning on the bigger turbos.  :)

> CURRENT MODS:
> Yokohama A032R race tires, Porterfield rotors, Porterfield race pads, air
> ducts to front brakes, water injection to front brakes, inner fender wells
> removed to promote air flow. Problem: It EATS brake pads.

Out of curiosity, which cars don't?  I thought that going through one set
of pads per day was pretty typical for most cars, unless you're going
through more than that.  A friend of mine says that M3's eat up front tires ...

> Planned Phase 1 mods:
>
> ENGINE:
> Red Line manual boost controller (ordered)

And boost gauge?  Very essential.

> Spearco Water Injection kit (to cool the input charge under
> long periods of WOT) -- is this a good idea?

Might not be necessary if you eventually plan for bigger turbos and IC.
All you will be doing in the meantime is compensating for how inefficient
the stock 9B's are under high rpms/boost.  Bigger turbos solves this to
a large degree.  Also, you would probably be the first to prove whether
the system is reliable under extended track conditions.

> How can I install this for quick warranty removal?

>From reading the installs, it probably won't be that difficult.  You should
keep a spare intake Y-pipe handy, and the tank should be pretty easy
to remove.  Or you could leave it in and tell them that you upgraded your
windshield washer fluid tank.  :)

> Homemade low restriction cat-back exhaust -- stock cat to stock
> pipe to Y to two 2.5 in. pipes to two Flowmasters/Ansa or similar straight
> through stubby mufflers. Cuts considerable weight.

You'll lose a LOT of weight if you also eliminate the stock catalytic
converter system.  If you are considering a downpipe and going to a
custom system, then I suggest that you consider making a true dual
exhaust system (like the Corvette has).  I have one.  It is dual 2.5"
all the way back from the front header/rear O2 housing.  I used dual
straight-thought Dynomax 6"x18" Bullet mufflers, and they do an
excellent job of quieting the noise.  I can send you pics.  A true dual
system will outflow a single 3" (and be close to 3.5" single), and it
will have less turbulence because of no 90 degree connections at the
rear O2 housing the the rear T-split for dual muffs.

> What else could I do to get 400+ hp? Downpipe? Bigger intercoolers? Gut
> the cats?

K&N FIPK!  Did you accidentally leave this out of your list?  Essential.

Upgraded BOV ($200-300) or switch to 1st gen DSM air bypass valve
(~$60?) to eliminate high boost leak.

Gutting the cats is a must, as long as you are doing downpipe.  This
combined with downpipe will greatly improve your midrange torque
(slight loss of very low end torque) and greatly improve spoolup.

Raising boost will be a major power pickup.  Jay Connelly (who used
to be on this list) was blowing away Viper GTS's left and right (he went
to a Viper meet, was ~never~ passed all day, and passed ever Viper
which came in sight) down at PIR running about 1.2 bars of boost with
upgraded intake, exhaust, and pads.

Upgraded IC is a big chunk of change.  You might instead consider
putting that money towards fuel upgrades.  It won't be necessary
until you get bigger turbos, but at least you'll be able to start learning
how to tweak things, and you'll have more peace of mind that your
stock fuel system isn't pushed too much to its limits.  Here's the lineup:

RC550 or 560 injectors: ($500)
Supra fuel pump: ($180)
Used 1st gen AFC: (~$200) or new AFC: ($275)
OR you might consider that new Split Second ARC-GP2 system
that everyone on Team3S is talking about.  $1000, and you'll also
have a bigger MAF and K&N filter to go with it.  PMS is another
option which goes for about $1000, and allows you to also tweak
your timing and get datalog readouts but no upgraded MAF.

> SUSPENSION:
> Ground Control/Eibach springs, lower car 1 inch all round --
> ready to install
> What about new shocks or struts at this point? If so, what do
> you suggest?

Barry King (and others) ~highly~ suggests the GAB shocks.  Your
stock shocks probably won't be happy with the lower drop and
firmer springs.  Or you could sell the GC kit and get a full-on coilover
kit from Tein, one of the best Japanese suspension companies, with
camber-adjustable pillow ball mounts.  This system would make the
GC kit look like the homemade hackjob it is.  Unfortunately the price
is about $1500, but at least that's $1000 less than the Bozz coilovers.
Julian Ng just ordered the Tein kit, and he'll be receiving it soon.

> BRAKES:
> Brad's Big Red Porsche 12-in. calipers with Pagid pads

12" calipers?!  I heard they were big, but not that big!  Wow.

> Additional 2-in. cooling duct per side, perhaps with air
> blowers and water injection.

Cool.  :)

> Porterfield rotors seem to work OK, but they've been turned twice. I'll
> need new ones soon. Suggestions?.

Somebody on Team3S said the Supra rotors work great.  Or you
might look into whatever rotors that most Supras tend to upgrade to.
I can find out if you want me to.

> Opinions, please. What else would be suitable at this stage? So far, I'll
> have a few more horsepower, better springs and lowering for better
> cornering, and bigger brakes to stop it.

Lightweight race seats?  5 pt. harness?  Roll cage?  A friend of mine
just got a 6 pt. rollcage custom made for his 2nd gen Eclipse for a
bit over $500.  It's TIG welded and total weight is about 70lbs (it would
be 30lbs if he had payed extra for chromoly).  Entry into the car is not
a problem because you can have the door bars made removable (with
grenade pins) or "openable" (with hinge pins).

> How about an air dam in front? I'm thinking of making a 2-in. dam all the
> way around, perhaps with air ducts embedded,. and then remove the stock air
> dam and motor (save weight). Do I run fast enough (top speed 120 mph at
> most tracks) to need an air dam?

An average sports car is spending close to 50% of its horsepower to
overcome aerodynamic resistance by only 60mph (the rest goes to
overcoming frictional resistance from the road).  A major source of
drag for any car is the cracks and crevices underneath the body.  The
airdam is a good idea (or you could buy an aftermarket front lip, not
too expensive), and you might also consider dropping the car even
lower to at least 2", if you upgrade the shocks that is.

Better engine airflow (and reduced weight) can be had with a carbon
fiber hood with proper air vents.

> How about a rear strut brace in the back? Does this help? Where can I get one?

I'm sure it should help some.  Some performance shops carry it.

> Any other suspension mods worth pursuing, such as bigger sway bars,
> polyurethane bushings, etc? Where do you get them?

No idea.  It might be possible to custom make some of this stuff.

> Anything we can do with the four-wheel steering? Can it be adjusted? If so,
> what would you adjust?

I don't think so.

> Where else, besides the exhaust, can I save some weight?

Seats are a big one.  Battery and stereo system also.  Rear seatbacks
can be removed before racing, and they weight quite a bit.  Sound-
deadening material also weight quite a bit, but it makes the car less
friendly on the street.  Front active aero system and motor weighs
quite a bit also (maybe 50lbs?).  Front and rear bumpers, if you don't
fear for your life that is.

> I'd like to shave
> about 300 lb off it. Lighter wheels are probably out of the question,
> because most aftermarket wheels can't take the stress of racing, and the
> ones that can take it cost a bloody fortune.

Lighter wheels would be the big one.  In addition to better acceleration,
you would also notice a great improvement in braking.  I think TE37s
are about $500 each, and you might be on the lookout for used wheels.
TE37s are really light in 17", and even Julian's 18" VR Challenges weigh
only about 18 lbs.

> Does anyone make a replacement lower front valence panel that would have
> bigger openings for the intercoolers, some brake duct openings, and an air
> dam?

Do you mean the front bumper cover? Have you seen the new Veilside kit?
There are quite a few other kits out there also, but I don't see the size of the
opening as being much of an issue (except for the brake issue).  Stock front
bumper seems fine with an added lower lip.

> After next season, Phase 2 mods! Bigger turbos, bigger jets, and 550 hp!.

Great!  I hope to do those sometime next year too!  Fron what Jack was
recently saying, 550hp might even be a conservative rating if you go for
the 15G's (with very little loss in spoolup) and the car is tuned right.  600+
is probably more like it.  :)

Go get 'em!

--Errin "can't roadrace b/c I'm just a poor college student" Humphrey
Seattle, wA
Yellow 94 VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 18:34:09 1999
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Subject: Team3S: VR4 engine
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just curious, what is the most power (steetable) that someone has gotten out
of one of these engine? and what did they do?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 18:36:41 1999
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Subject: Team3S: i think i already asked this but not sure
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does anyone on here have a 3.0 V-6 DOHC TT with rear, tranny, and computer
and wireing? i am looking to do a motor swap, and this is the basis of what i
need, if anyone can help me i'd really appreciate it, thanx


        aaron
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 19:14:10 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing prep
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At 06:40 PM 10/30/99 -0500, Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell wrote:
>If yer looking to cut some weight off of the car, have you considered a
>carbon-fiber hood from GT-PRO?  I remember seeing a post on the list not to
>far back from a gentleman that had one put on and said it was an excellent
>quality hood, perfect fit (they weigh only 13 lbs for our size hoods :).
>Check out www.gtpro.com

I looked. A wee bit expensive. Wonder if it will accommodate a strut brace?
>
>Also, you might want to consider doing something with the rear-seats where
>you can make them removable (you don't need them when yer racing, and
>that'll probably save some major lbs right there :).  I dunno how one would
>go about doing this, but I'm sure some body shop somewhere could fabricate
>something for the seats that can make them removable on demand like mini-van
>rear seats (since it's yer daily car as well, I take it you wouldn't want to
>drive without the rear seats ALL the time :).

I never use the rear seats anyway. Probably 25 lb there, eh?
>
>Also, do you take extended trips in yer car that require the more
>comfortable seats?  You could ditch the regular seats and put in racing
>seats that are lighter weight (but I doubt you'd want to do that ;)p.

I dunno. Maybe a Recaro seat for me might help. I find myself bracing with
the steering wheel, and that ain't good.

>
>The last thing I could think of for ditching major weight is to get an
>all-around body kit for the car that uses either carbon-fiber, or some other
>lightweight material.  Ditching all those steel body panels for lighter
>material will definately give you some big savings.

Ooooooh, that's expensive!

Thanks for the ideas.

Rich/old poop
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 19:14:24 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Road Racing prep
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>
>You didn't post this to the Team3S list?

Sure did. They hang onto a post for a while, then ship it out.
>
> so I need to
>> upgrade my car a bit.
>
>Do you?  ;)

Yep. I attribute all my success to the car. I just hang on for dear life,
but I'll be playing with the big boys soon.
>
>If you're moving up a level next year, won't you eventually get to a level
>where they allow passing in the straights?

You are allowed to pass in certain areas based on your class. Novices can
only pass on the main straight, the next class or two gets to pass on other
straights, and advanced/instructor cars can pass anywhere -- but, in all
cases, only if you are waved by.

>  I thought that going through one set
>of pads per day was pretty typical for most cars,

No, it's only typical for our cars. 911s and M3s can get one or two
weekends out of a set of pads.
>
>And boost gauge?  Very essential.

Of course.
>
>> Spearco Water Injection kit (to cool the input charge under
>> long periods of WOT) -- is this a good idea?
>
>Might not be necessary if you eventually plan for bigger turbos and IC.
>All you will be doing in the meantime is compensating for how inefficient
>the stock 9B's are under high rpms/boost.  Bigger turbos solves this to
>a large degree.  Also, you would probably be the first to prove whether
>the system is reliable under extended track conditions.

I don't see how it can hurt for one season, do you? It's not very expensive.

>
>You'll lose a LOT of weight if you also eliminate the stock catalytic
>converter system.

What does that do to the warranty?


If you are considering a downpipe and going to a
>custom system, then I suggest that you consider making a true dual
>exhaust system (like the Corvette has).  I have one.  It is dual 2.5"
>all the way back from the front header/rear O2 housing.  I used dual
>straight-thought Dynomax 6"x18" Bullet mufflers, and they do an
>excellent job of quieting the noise.  I can send you pics. 

Yes, please.


>K&N FIPK!  Did you accidentally leave this out of your list?  Essential.

Ooops. Yes, I did. Got one..
>
>Upgraded BOV ($200-300) or switch to 1st gen DSM air bypass valve
>(~$60?) to eliminate high boost leak.

OK. More details, please.
>
>Gutting the cats is a must, as long as you are doing downpipe.  This
>combined with downpipe will greatly improve your midrange torque
>(slight loss of very low end torque) and greatly improve spoolup.

OK
>
>Raising boost will be a major power pickup. <snip lots of stuff>

That's all for next season, but thanks.
>
>> SUSPENSION:
>
>Barry King (and others) ~highly~ suggests the GAB shocks.  Your
>stock shocks probably won't be happy with the lower drop and
>firmer springs. 

Hmmm.

Or you could sell the GC kit and get a full-on coilover
>kit from Tein, one of the best Japanese suspension companies, with
>camber-adjustable pillow ball mounts.  This system would make the
>GC kit look like the homemade hackjob it is.  Unfortunately the price
>is about $1500, but at least that's $1000 less than the Bozz coilovers.

Nah. Way too much money at this stage.

>> Brad's Big Red Porsche 12-in. calipers with Pagid pads
>>12" calipers?!  I heard they were big, but not that big!  Wow.

I used to have a photo of it, lying next to one of our calipers and a ruler.\
As I recall, the caliper was 12-in. long.
>
>
>  Roll cage? 

Someday for sure.
>
> A major source of
>drag for any car is the cracks and crevices underneath the body.  The
>airdam is a good idea (or you could buy an aftermarket front lip, not
>too expensive), and you might also consider dropping the car even
>lower to at least 2", if you upgrade the shocks that is.

OK.
>
>Better engine airflow (and reduced weight) can be had with a carbon
>fiber hood with proper air vents.

Got anything specific in mind?
>
>> How about a rear strut brace in the back? Does this help? Where can I
get one?
>>I'm sure it should help some.  Some performance shops carry it.

For our cars?
>
>> Where else, besides the exhaust, can I save some weight?
>Seats are a big one.

OK, out with the rear seats.

>Battery and stereo system also.
Gotta have my music

>Rear seatbacks
>can be removed before racing, and they weight quite a bit.  Sound-
>deadening material also weight quite a bit, but it makes the car less
>friendly on the street.

Nah.  Too much trouble.

Front active aero system and motor weighs
>quite a bit also (maybe 50lbs?).

Aha! So a permanent air dam WOULD be beneficial, at least from a weight
standpoint.

>
>Lighter wheels would be the big one.  In addition to better acceleration,
>you would also notice a great improvement in braking.  I think TE37s
>are about $500 each,

WAY too expensive.
>
>> Does anyone make a replacement lower front valence panel that would have
>> bigger openings for the intercoolers, some brake duct openings, and an air
>> dam?
>
Have you seen the new Veilside kit? >There are quite a few other kits out
there also, but I don't see the size of the
>opening as being much of an issue (except for the brake issue).

I've seen them. I'd like to take the Veilside front valence, but it's an
entire kit.

Thanks.

Rich/old poop
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 19:53:15 1999
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From: "Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell" <benson@2015.com>
To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Road racing prep
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At 06:40 PM 10/30/99 -0500, Benson \"elmagoo\" Russell wrote:
>If yer looking to cut some weight off of the car, have you considered a
>carbon-fiber hood from GT-PRO?  I remember seeing a post on the list not to
>far back from a gentleman that had one put on and said it was an excellent
>quality hood, perfect fit (they weigh only 13 lbs for our size hoods :).
>Check out www.gtpro.com

I looked. A wee bit expensive. Wonder if it will accommodate a strut brace?
>


I don't think so.  The carbon fiber hood that he sells as far as I know is
an exact copy of the stock hood, only in carbon fiber.  I'm not sure, but I
thought I heard somewhere that he might be working on possibly a hood that
can accomodate an upper stress bar, and I think he might be working on a
variant of the hood that has an intake near the air-filter (basically a
scoop of some kind in the hood) so you can get cold-air into the air-filter.
Again, I thought I heard these somewhere (can't remember if it was here, or
on a newsgroup), so don't quote me on those ;)p.


> Front active aero system and motor weighs
>quite a bit also (maybe 50lbs?).

>Aha! So a permanent air dam WOULD be beneficial, at least from a weight
>standpoint.


Does the active aero system actually provide any performance improvement, or
is it just a gimickie thing that doesn't really do much except alert the
cops when yer going over like 65 (or whatever the auto-engage speed is on
that thing)?  Because if it weighs like 50lbs, wouldn't you be better off
just ditching it for the weight savings?



Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 20:34:26 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Road racing prep
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>From a road racing instructor (and 3K owner's) point of view, safety and
driving comfort (ie; not bracing yourself) are the most important items you
need to look at. You will be impressed at how much smoother your driving
will become when you are not having to brace yourself (with the steering
wheel and left foot) while also having to turn with that same wheel.

Call Mike Welch at Road Race Engineering http://www.roadraceengineering.com
for a rear strut tower bar which will serve dual purpose, as a harness
mounting bar and strut tower stabilizer. Then order yourself a good quality
4 or 5 point harness with shoulder belts that are long enough to reach back
to the strut tower bar. These long shoulder harnesses CAN be found if you
tell the company what your application is. It is most usually found as a
shoulder Y harness that attaches with a single wrap at the strut tower bar.
If you have the money to spend, I would also invest in a good quality (SAFE)
road racing seat. This could mean an aluminum (ie: Kirkey or Butler) seat or
a composite seat (Sparco or a meriad of other brands) that is amply braced
and secured in the car.

The last point would be making the car more reliable, with our cars this
would mean focusing on the braking system. Getting this system improved to
the point that you can last an entire session without having to make cool
down laps after you have cooked your brakes. For the Porterfield pads try
the barbeque method that I described a few months earlier and try baking the
rotors and bedding the brake pads to the rotors with some nice easy heat
cycling on the street prior to your track events.

I think focusing on these key areas, which often go overlooked by the
beginning roadracer or autocrosser will make your driving improve much more
solidly than throwing parts at the car and trying to find more speed from
the CAR instead of speed and smoothness from the DRIVER.

I will be headed down to Summit Point WV tomorrow to finish out my road
racing season and instruct some students. Tomorrow they will be on their
second day of driver's school for the Fall SCCA School for the Washington DC
region. Check us out @ http://www.wdcr-scca.org
--------------------------------------
-shawn dewey

'95 Talon ESi #19 SSC
'81 Mazda RX7 GSL #32 Spec RX7
'93 Mitsubishi 3KGT VR-4
'91 Eagle Talon TSI AWD
http://home.dmv.com/~sdewey



----- Original Message -----
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 7:45 PM
Subject: Team3S: Road racing prep


> With winter approaching, the racing season is over and it's time to plan
> for next year. I'd like the list's opinion of the Phase 1 improvements I
> have in mind, in hopes that you will keep me from going down the wrong
> path, or you will suggest something else to do while I'm "in there."
>
> MY SITUATION:
> I attend open track sessions, driver's schools, and hot lapping sessions
on
> road courses. I do not drag race, I do not abuse my Getrag with full power
> shifts, and I rarely  take it to 7200 rpm unless I  am running down a C5
or
> whatever. My car is a 94 3000GT VR4, and is superior to every other
> street-driven car in my class when driven by drivers with the same
> experience as I have (I cannot beat an instructor in an M3, for example,
> although I can whup up on M3s in my class).  Nevertheless, I regularly
pass
> 911s, M3s, Z3s, turbo 944s, 5.0 Mustangs and C5 vettes. The only cars that
> give a VR4 trouble are twin turbo AWD Porsches, Vipers,  500hp Supras, and
> trailered, race-prepped cars. I will be moving up in class next year,
where
> the cars are stronger and the drivers more experienced, so I need to
> upgrade my car a bit.


<major snip>





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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 21:10:16 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Dual exhausts on base?
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I'm the proud owner of a '92 stealth r/t na and I've just realized that some
of the base model 3000gt's have dual exhausts.  Could I add a second pair of
pipes to the stealth?  if so would there be any benefits or drawbacks? 

thanks in advance. 

andy
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 21:21:15 1999
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To: "3000GT Mailing" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dual exhausts on base?
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heheh, basically it's just for looks.  The left pipe is the real exhaust,
the right pipe is just a split off of the main (basically for show really,
doesn't do much :(.  So yer not really missing anything :).


Latufh fuh U,
Benson
benson@2015.com

"-Do you ever have second thoughts?
-When do I ever have first thoughts?"

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Oct 30 21:58:33 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Dual exhausts on base?
Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 23:58:44 -0500
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Precedence: bulk

from a performance standpoint, why bother? the exhaust system on NA 3kgts
weigh more then on NA stealths (extra piping and muffler). no real
performance benifit. Any power gained by slightly more flow (very little
power) is probably negated by the weight (anyone care to disagree?)
from a cosmetic standpoint, sure why not? it'll look more agressive!
it would be a better idea to do a custom cat back system from your local
muffler shop, and then split it off to two pipes at the rear with high flow
mufflers. even better if they can do it mandrel bent. Low end torque will be
lost (BIG difference between running "open" no muffler, and with stock
muffler), a little more HP gained.

Omar
92 r/t

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> ANguyen999@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 11:10 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Dual exhausts on base?
>
>
> I'm the proud owner of a '92 stealth r/t na and I've just
> realized that some
> of the base model 3000gt's have dual exhausts.  Could I add a
> second pair of
> pipes to the stealth?  if so would there be any benefits or drawbacks?
>
> thanks in advance.
>
> andy
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


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