--

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 11:45:45 1999
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:43:32 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
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What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:

91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
             I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
                                    16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
be specific

The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
sizes of slicks & weight savings.
Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 11:56:54 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
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Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:
>
> 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>              I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>                                     16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
> be specific
>
> The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
> sizes of slicks & weight savings.
> Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 14:48:36 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 23:46:27 +0200
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Team3S: Dual Timer setup
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> Doesn't it need the speed sensor or auto determine how long the car should
> stay on?  Also where will I find or what color is the e-brake wire?  Thanks

No, the time is calculated by the amount of pressure or vacuum read over the
whole time the car runned. This is the only "true" Turbo Timer and work damn
good :)

The purple wire is needed to sense the handbrake signal. Just run the car,
switch of the ign. key and do not connect the purple wire to anything. The timer
will stop immediatly. Now do the same and make contact to the chassis and the
timer will count down until it stops the engine. Use a voltmeter to find out
what wire it has to be attached to at the handbrake switch. It must show 0 volts
when the handbarke is on and something else when off. This should work then for
you. You can test this by just sliding the purple wire into the boot of the
other one and see how it works. Finally just splice into the wire and the thing
works.

Hope this helps,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (just Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 15:04:40 1999
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From: "Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:58:13 -0400
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Actually, since Arty has a '91, he may very well be able to find a 16" that
fits over the front calipers. Note the key word MAY... But I'm pretty sure a
16" without any interior bulges will fit over the smaller older calipers.

Arty:
Stock offset is 46mm on all of our wheels. You will want something slightly
LOWER than this to push the wheels outboard to prevent rubbing. How much
lower depends on how wide a tire you're going to run. Reducing the offset by
half the increase in width of the tire will keep the inner sidewall of the
tire in teh same location...

    -Ed

-----Original Message-----
From: josesini [mailto:josesini@engin.umich.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 2:52 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed


Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:
>
> 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>              I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>                                     16 by 8.5 what offset will work?
Please
> be specific
>
> The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
> sizes of slicks & weight savings.
> Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 16:03:16 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
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On my year 1991 the Calipers & rotors will clear the 16" wheels. On the later
years the larger rotors will not clear. Thanks. Still need the offsets tho?
Arty

In a message dated 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
josesini@engin.umich.edu writes:

<< Subj: Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
Date: 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time
From: josesini@engin.umich.edu (josesini)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com

Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:
>
> 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>              I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>                                     16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
> be specific
>
> The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
> sizes of slicks & weight savings.
> Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
>  >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 16:56:22 1999
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In that case, I would go with 38mm w/ 16x9 or 16x9.5 wheel so you can
put on a 275/45R16 tire (If they make it!)

By the way, if money was no option, you can have Kinesis make you a 3
piece wheel to your specifications.  Apparently all their 3 piece wheels
are custom made.

Good luck,

Jose


Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> On my year 1991 the Calipers & rotors will clear the 16" wheels. On the later
> years the larger rotors will not clear. Thanks. Still need the offsets tho?
> Arty
>
> In a message dated 6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> josesini@engin.umich.edu writes:
>
> << Subj:         Re: Team3S: Rim offset specification needed
>  Date:  6/1/99 2:57:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time
>  From:  josesini@engin.umich.edu (josesini)
>  Sender:        owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>  Reply-to:      stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>  To:    stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>  Your front brakes won't fit in a 16" wheel.
>
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>  >
>  > What size offset would be needed if I change my rim size as follows:
>  >
>  > 91 VR-4 Stock size was 17 by 8.5 JJ. Stock offset was 46mm
>  >              I'm changing to 16 by 9 if available or
>  >                                     16 by 8.5 what offset will work? Please
>  > be specific
>  >
>  > The reason I'm looking to go to a smaller wheel is due to the available
>  > sizes of slicks & weight savings.
>  > Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
>  >  >>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 17:30:05 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <7057B516B5F8D11198320080296571A22348DA@EXCHANGE>
Subject: Re: Team3S: DBAsport rotors????
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:27:00 -0700
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> Has anyone looked at the new DBAsport rotors for our cars?  They are both
> drilled and slotted.  They seem pretty nice.  Just curious if anyone knows
> anything about them.  I am trying to get some prices of them.
=========================================================================

I have a catalog on order,I talked to the distributor briefly and got the impression that they
were your run of the mill aftermarket rotors. BTY they do sell some kind of fluid recirculation
system to go with their brakes, he said there was info in the catalog.

I also got a Wilwood racecar brake catalog ---- racing brakes and rotors --- yikes, high end
stuff is $3700 per caliper although they do have stock car/road race calipers for $370. In addition
they have the curved vane rotors for $70 and mounting hats for $90 [ low end ]. I'm not sure
if they make anything that fits our cars, but I'll check. They have fluid recirculation also.

   Jim berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 17:30:19 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: VR4/stealth short block
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:27:17 -0700
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I have access to a new, still in mitsu box, VR4/stealth short block -- 4 bolt.
If anybody's interested email me at fastmax@home.com.

   Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 18:26:18 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: headers
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 18:23:16 -0700
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I recently talked to a shop that claims to have fabricated headers for the 3000/Stealth
TT in a failed effort to provide aftermarket products for the turbo car. Any idea what
this aborted effort was?? I'm going to talk to him in the next week or so to see what he
has to offer. It's in the So. Cal area. Any guesses or input appreciated.

    Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 18:36:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: My new web site (still in constrsuction)
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try renaming default.htm to default.html if that doesn't work try index.html
and index.htm

X
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun  1 18:50:13 1999
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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 21:54:53 -0400
From: Don Kessler <dgkessler@ameritech.net>
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Subject: Team3S: Parts Microfiche
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Thanks to all for your positive comments on the parts microfiche.  As it
turns out, the person that won the bid intends to share his good
fortunate.  Why not show your support and contact him.  His name is
Lorne and his e-mail address is vr4@cwia.com

Thanks,

Don

1993 R/T TT
3si #152
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 06:28:17 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:29:02 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light Codes
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Yes,

Check out this page to see the details http://www.myzero.com look at the
electronic section to see the info you need.  If you have more questions
I'll help.


David
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 06:31:42 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:25:38 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light Codes
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Yes

If you have a analog votage meter it is very simple.  There is a web page
that details the "how to" on the page.  It is located in the electronic
section of his page.  After reading that page and if you still have
questions. E-mail me again, and I'll help you out.


Did you do ANYTING to the car or did the Check light just come on?


David

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 06:56:43 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:56:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>, stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: VR-4 calipers on an N/A
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Hello all,

   Here is a question which I have been chewing on for a little while.

Not considering the offset issue, is it possible to install VR-4 calipers
on a non-VR4 3/S car?

My understanding is that all 3/S N/A cars have a 2 piston front caliper
set-up, while the VR-4's have a 4 piston caliper setup.

I have looked at the service manual, I don't immediately see any
differences which would prevent this from happening.

What about the brake line?  Is it a different size? 
I can't tell by the pictures in the maunual if it is...

Do you VR-4 owners out there know what the size of the brake lines are?

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 07:29:32 1999
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Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:29:45 -0700
From: Jeff Schwartz <jeff.schwartz@citicorp.com>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Check Engine Light Codes - (Long Post)
References: <19990602.072904.-4136725.1.David.Moravek@juno.com>
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Hope this may help someone in the future.  I got fooled at first.

Thanks a lot anyway, but I found the info in the manual under the
MFI section.  It was a strange problem that fooled me at first. 
After drving for 1/2 hour, I had stopped and shut off the car. 
I went to start it after 15 minutes and it was idling rough like
it was on 5 cylinders, and the "check engine" light was on.  Drove
it a little and it cleared up and the light went out.  It happened
again at the house, so I started to check the wires with a timing
light to find that one wire wasn't firing.  I assumed that since I
put in Magnecors and new plugs last week, something fell off, or the
wire just went bad, or maybe the plug went bad. (not likely) Well,
my luck, it was one of the rear plugs.  Had to rip it all apart
again to find there was nothing wrong with the plug or wire.  This
is after I took the old plug and wire, and watched the plug fire
outside of the engine, so I knew it was either the wire or plug. 
So I put the old plug and wire back in for hell of it.  Started it
and found the same problem.  That's when I checked the code from
the "check engine" light. I refused to believe it was an injector
like the code was telling me since I knew the plug wasn't firing.
I grounded pin#1 of the OBD connector and read the code right from the
check engine light.  Ripped the plenum out AGAIN, and found that a wire
had popped out of one of the injectors. I repaired the the connector,
and that was it!  I guess I should have trusted the OBD/check engine
light!
I had assumed that since there was no spark, the ECU was shutting off
the injector to that cylinder.  The whole funny thing is now that all
is working, I still can't get the timing light to be triggered off that
one wire, and it's not even the same cylinder that had the bad injector
connector.  I guess the timing light dosn't trigger well with the
Magnecors, but it's strange how it's just that one wire.  If I take
the wire and plug out, the timing light fires fine, it's only when the
plug is in the engine!  Who knows!!  I'm just happy to find the problem.
Thanks for all your help. 
--
Jeff Schwartz
1995 Panama Green Pearl VR4
Borla, K&N FIPK, Magnecors

David J Moravek wrote:
>
> Yes
>
> If you have a analog votage meter it is very simple.  There is a web page
> that details the "how to" on the page.  It is located in the electronic
> section of his page.  After reading that page and if you still have
> questions. E-mail me again, and I'll help you out.
>
> Did you do ANYTING to the car or did the Check light just come on?
>
> David
>
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 08:50:12 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:48:34 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Changing to Solid Lifters?
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, stealth@starnet.net
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Any information on changing to solid lifters? 91 VR-4.

My engine builder has suggested doing this. Has anyone done it or tried to do
it?
Any suggestions pro or con appreciated.
Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 09:56:49 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Changing to Solid Lifters?
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Arty,
There are several advantages to using solid (mechanical) lifters. You can
switch to dual valve springs, get more radical with cam profiles, run
higher RPM's, and have a more "bullet proof" upper end, to name a few.

Out of all the Starion engines i built for racing purposes, only one left
my possesion with hydraulic lifters, only because the guy did not want to
have to adjust his valve lash every month or so. The problem with
converting a 3/S to mechanical lifters is availability. Unlike the starion
engine which had an older, mechanical lifter version which made it easy to
convert, the 3.0L V6 has always had hydraulic lifters. This means you will
have to pay (dearly, i'm sure) somebody to make you a set, instead of using
some from a older engine platform.   

Aside from the $$$ issue, mechanical lifters require frequent adjustment.
You already know how much of a pain it is to change spark plugs, imagine
having to go one step further and remove the valve covers to adjust the
lifters about every 1000 miles......I hope this helped some...

Wayne


At 10:48 AM 6/2/99 , you wrote:
>Any information on changing to solid lifters? 91 VR-4.
>
>My engine builder has suggested doing this. Has anyone done it or tried to do
>it?
>Any suggestions pro or con appreciated.
>Thanks Arty 91 VR-4


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 10:01:24 1999
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You may ask Brian at GT-Pro about them. We spoke about them almost a year ago
and I think he does have some information for ya. His email address is still "GT
PRO" thegtalley@email.msn.com

Regards,
Roger

Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
> Any information on changing to solid lifters? 91 VR-4.
>
> My engine builder has suggested doing this. Has anyone done it or tried to do
> it?
> Any suggestions pro or con appreciated.
> Thanks Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (just Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 11:08:35 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket rotors
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:05:26 -0700
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Do Brembo or other aftermarket calipers bolt directly to the stock hub
or do they usually have an adapter bracket.

Also does anyone know the mount center spacing [ the distance between
the mounting holes ] and the mount radius  [ the distance of a mounting hole
from the center of the spindle ] on the 93 stock caliper.

         Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 13:39:33 1999
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Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:39:30 -0700
From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Strange Spool-down noise
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Greetings folks,
        I had to get my tranny replaced under warranty (yay! that's the second
        tranny for me - does the car become a lemon after _three_ tranny
        replacements?) and I'm not quite satisfied with this one as well.

        When I'm in gear, and when I take the foot off the gas pedal, I hear a
        whining noise similar to that of an airplane turbine jet engine spool
        down (tho not nearly that loud, but the same tone; actually I have to
        turn off the A/C and the radio to hear it distinctly.)  When I depress
        the clutch pedal or shift to neutral, this sounds goes away.  The
        sound is prominent in the 1500 to 2000 rpm ranges, but I can hear it
        from 3000 down to 1000.  The technician at the dealer claims that he
        talked with the Mitsubishi tech. line and was apparently informed that
        this noise was normal.  But, it doesn't sound normal to me, given the
        circumstances of its occurance.

        BTW, I also had the clutch/pressure plate/throw-out bearing replaced
        and now the clutch pedal is not nearly as stiff as it used to be, and
        I'm able to downshift with little to no 'jerkiness.'


-sankar
'97 VR4
Mods: K&N FIPK, RS*R downsprings, SS brake lines, Porterfield Rotors and R4S
brake pads in front, SpeedBleeder, weatherstrip airflow mod, Michelin Pilot
XGT Z4 tires.
--
*******************************************************************************
You took my last chip, you could at least smile, Worf.
Smiling would break his concentration.
    -- Pulaski and Geordi, "The Emissary", stardate 42901.3
*******************************************************************************
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 14:08:24 1999
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Yoss,

This sounds like normal gear noise.  Ever watched a Can-Am race on TV;
those Butstangs and others sound like remote control cars they have so
much gear noise. You can also hear quite a bit on Formula-1 cars as
well.

If that is what it sounds like it could be OK.

Regards,
Lynn

Yoss wrote:
>
>         When I'm in gear, and when I take the foot off the gas pedal, I hear a
>         whining noise similar to that of an airplane turbine jet engine spool
>         down (tho not nearly that loud, but the same tone; actually I have to
>         turn off the A/C and the radio to hear it distinctly.)  When I depress
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So you think they put in straight cut gears instead of helical cut?

That sure would make shifting easier...
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 17:47:57 1999
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From: "Barry E. King" <beking@home.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strange Spool-down noise
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:48:45 -0700
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Since the transmission is somewhat new and under warranty, give it a few
thousand miles to wear in and reasses.  This does sound like normal gear
whine.  It will likely lessen over time in the most commonly used gears.  At
some point in the future before the 12mo/12000mi warranty expires you can
choose to get more opinions and go from there.

Barry

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Greetings folks,
>         I had to get my tranny replaced under warranty (yay!
> that's the second
>         tranny for me - does the car become a lemon after _three_ tranny
>         replacements?) and I'm not quite satisfied with this one as well.
>
>         When I'm in gear, and when I take the foot off the gas
> pedal, I hear a
>         whining noise similar to that of an airplane turbine jet
> engine spool
>         down (tho not nearly that loud, but the same tone;
> actually I have to
>         turn off the A/C and the radio to hear it distinctly.)
> When I depress
>         the clutch pedal or shift to neutral, this sounds goes away.  The
>         sound is prominent in the 1500 to 2000 rpm ranges, but I
> can hear it
>         from 3000 down to 1000.  The technician at the dealer
> claims that he
>         talked with the Mitsubishi tech. line and was apparently
> informed that
>         this noise was normal.  But, it doesn't sound normal to
> me, given the
>         circumstances of its occurance.
>
>         BTW, I also had the clutch/pressure plate/throw-out
> bearing replaced
>         and now the clutch pedal is not nearly as stiff as it
> used to be, and
>         I'm able to downshift with little to no 'jerkiness.'
>
>
> -sankar
> '97 VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 18:10:32 1999
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Unfortunately Sankar, 3 strikes in Mitsu's ballgame just means your out(of a car while being repaired & $2000)not them.  As long as you have a warranty, use it while you can.  If not happy, keep going back & making phone calls to Mitsu - let them get the "BIG PICTURE" - cause they can't see the forrest for the trees.

>> I had to get my tranny replaced under warranty (yay!
>> that's the second tranny for me - does the car become a lemon after _three_ tranny replacements?) and I'm not quite satisfied with this one as well.
>> -sankar
>> '97 VR4



HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 19:48:09 1999
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From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
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Subject: Team3S: Re: icq...????
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My ICQ Number is 12006697Id anyone ever wants to chat

Edwin 98 3000GT SL
-----Original Message-----
From: Busta <Busta@hfx.andara.com>
To: stealth@starnet.net <stealth@starnet.net>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: icq...????


>Woo Hoo! :)  another ICQ user, finally live chat! :)   For anyone
>interested... 6955201 is my UIN :)
>
>Andrew
>
>aaron decker wrote:
>
>> I am new to icq,is there any chat channels on icq or anyone
>> that wanna talk cars while i am bored out of my mind at work?
>>
>> hehehe, ok  thanks,
>> my number is 40295115
>>
>> Aaron
>> The bored person stuck in his office with only a computer
>>
>> _______________________________________________________________
>> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Re: brakes
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Brad Bedell wrote ---


> Any reason for wilwood calipers?
>
> Neither caliper will "bolt on"  some form of adapter bracket will have to be
> made.
>
> I would do the Porsche 993 Calipers personally.  They are far better quality
> than any wilwood caliper on the market (for a street driven car).
=======================================================================

Just got to looking at aftermarket rotors ---  was impressed some of the NASCAR short track stuff.
Martinsville -- 500 laps -- 1000 brake cycles [ cherry red twice per lap ]. I started looking at
what
kind of stuff the circle track guys use and one of them is Wilwood. I got their racebrake catalog
and started looking through it. High end is $ 3700 per caliper with stuff down to $200. One of the
road race calipers [ $370 ] is a six piston differential bore unit, with a 6" pad that "looks" like
it
should stop a tank. In addition they have fluid recirculation hardware.

I've got 94 chrome 17" wheels with an inside diameter of 15 1/2", which allow me to use the GN III
caliper with a 13" rotor [ outside radius of caliper is 7.19" ].With rotors and top hat I've got
$1500 tied
up.

For $2600 I get the Brembo big brake set up and I think you've got $1500 a setup [ I don't know if
your
package includes rotors]. I will look further at the Brembo and Porsche unit if I can get some tech
info,
and I'd be happy to hear what you've got to say. I'm a relative newby at brake systems but I'm
willing
to learn.

   Jim berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 20:52:11 1999
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From: "Edwin Shaw" <seawulf@sgi.net>
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My ICQ number is 12006697
Message me to chat about our cars, I would love the input on my own

Edwin
'98 Pearl White 3000GT SL
2 JL 12" W3's
MTX Thunder 2150 Amp
K&N Air Filter Charger

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My ICQ number is =
12006697</FONT></DIV>
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would love=20
the input on my own</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Edwin</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'98 Pearl White 3000GT SL<BR>2 JL =
12&quot;=20
W3's<BR>MTX Thunder 2150 Amp<BR>K&amp;N Air Filter=20
Charger</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 22:27:27 1999
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  I almost decided not to go just because it was supposed to be around 90 degrees both
days.  I still hadn't run my car at a 1/4 mile track since the boost controller was put
in, and the idea of watching other people run their cars while I was standing in the sun
wasn't very appealing.  Me and my good friend Billy decided to go anyway, what the
hell.  We opted not to take Billy's mildly modified 95 Talon TSI AWD as he didn't want
to run his car.  It was $20 to get in for both days, and the lady at the booth didn't
have much trouble getting the other $10 to race out of me even though I wanted to size
up the competition a little first.  I really wasn't planning on competing, but I didn't
wanna get laughed off the track either.
  There ended up only being 9 or 10 cars trying to qualify for the quick 8 in the Power
6 class.  Mike Mahaffey was there, but he didn't run.  He did come with Brad Daley and
his 10.83 second Supra to the dismay of the few that knew of Brad.  There was 1 other
Supra, 3 300 ZXs, an RX7, a Maxima, a Probe, and me.  One of the RX7s was pretty quick,
he ran a 12.3 and proceeded to talk trash about how heavy Supras were.  I think he shut
up after Brad ran 11.00 at 127 in the heat, in fact, the RX7 qualified 2nd and didn't
even show for the eliminations the next day.  I was running my Weapon-R air filter, the
Apexi AVC-R boost controller set to 1 atmosphere, Accel wires, NGK platinums gapped at
.035, and all three cats gutted.  I've given up on speed shifting, but I was dumping the
clutch on most runs, I just couldn't slip it good enough.  The clutch wasn't holding up
at all, it slipped on almost every launch.  I ended up edging ahead of a Supra that
qualified with 13.17.  I qualified 3rd at 13.16 with a clutch slipping 1.86 60' time, I
actually had to ease up on the gas a tad to get the clutch to bite.  Needless to say I
was a little surprised after not coming to compete, also a little disappointed in the
300s.  How can a twin turbo 3 liter be so slow?
  There were 2 more rounds of qualifications on the second day.  I decided to take out
the passenger seat and had wanted to unbolt the whole exhaust system, it's gotta be
heavy but I settled for unbolting the downpipe and gutted main cat.  I had also wanted
to do something with the driver's seat but I didn't have many options there, I didn't
get a chance to see if maybe my Mother's non power Eclipse seat would fit.  Before I go
any further, I gotta tell ya how loud the exhaust is when it comes out at the precats.
I was at my friend's house about an 1/8th of a mile from mine, my wife could hear it
when we started the car at 12:30 am.  When it settled down to an idle it wasn't too bad,
but ANY kind of load at 1000 RPMs or higher was almost unbearable.  It shook on startup
and sounded almost like a cammed v8.  We took it for a spin and my friend could hear it
clear as day when we goosed it over a mile away.  It was hard for me to say whether it
was noticeable quicker or it was just the fact that it sounded like a screaming semi on
steroids, turbo whine and all.
  We got the track around 10:15 a little better prepared with ice, drinks, and a
canopy.  I even found shade under a tree where I parked my car between runs.  Without
even cooling down I ran 3 times back to back.  I managed a slightly better 13.07.  It
was still pump gas, but at least I wasn't running over half a tank like the previous
day.  I let it cool a bit and put a couple gallons of 111 unleaded in.  I ended up
staging  next to another Supra that showed up for qualifications, and it was a good
race.  He ran a 12.830, I ran a 12.834, but the clocks showed the same time.  The Supra
from the previous day ended up running a 12.80 and I got bumped to 4th as the RX7 didn't
show.  Brad's Supra was running a little rough, but he still managed an 11.41 on the
second day.
  It ended up benefiting me in 4th spot as I ran against the number 8 qualifier in the
first round of eliminations.  The clutch had been holding up all day, I was coming out
of the hole at 7k RPMs, rear squatting, front lifting, spinning all four tires :)  After
running a couple 12.8s, the announcers were finally giving the Mitsu it's due respect.
The previous day it'd been Supra this, Supra that, blah blah blah.  I staged next to the
8th qualifying 300 in the first round and came screaming out of the hole to a 1.786 60',
8.25 1/8th, and crossed the line at 12.802 at 107.87.  I didn't know until watching my
friend's recording that the announcer had finally given the car a little respect saying
it was a fast street car, and ran like a bat outta hell :P  I got knocked out of the
second round of eliminations by a 300z that hadn't run below 13.12 all day.  He had a
near perfect reaction time of .501 and ran 13.15 to my 12.899, but he crossed the line
.113 seconds ahead of me.  He was the better driver no doubt, but I was still a little
disappointed.  The 300 got real lucky and took first as Brad's Supra broke after
stumbling halfway down the track, last I heard they thought it was a broken piston and
they were going home to get the truck and trailer as it'd been driven to the track.
  Considering the mods and the heat I thought I ran pretty well.  I was probably also
the least modified car out of the bunch.  I'd been hoping for a 12.75 in that heat and I
wasn't too far off.  Maybe I can run near a 12.5 on a cool day.  I was kinda
disappointed that more 3000s or Stealths didn't show up, my car's nothing compared to a
lot of cars in the area.  But heck, I had a good time and probably wouldn't have stayed
around that long just to watch other cars run.

talk to ya later,
Jason

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 22:42:05 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Fun time at MIR's Import Internationals (pretty long)...
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Now that was a great post, Jason! 
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun  2 23:46:25 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Fun time at MIR's Import Internationals (small followup)...
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  This event was at Budd's Creek Maryland, MIR.  I'll try to get more detail about the
other cars' times, hopefully MIR will post the results and pictures on their page
http://www.mirdrag.com .  It's really close to sea level, and it was somewhere in the
neighborhood of 90 degrees.  Hopefully I'll be able to get the footage converted to AVI
and post it somewhere.  There was also someone from Super Street taking pictures, who
knows...

Jason
http://www.erols.com/danebar

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 07:11:04 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: "Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Split Second MAF kit / VPC (long)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 09:10:49 -0500
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> - large MAF (can we get the MAF only from them ?)
> - electronics that can :
> - convert the MAF signal to Karman Vortex style
> - rpm related idle control
> - O2 sensor readings
> - MAP sensor readings (additional sensor)
> - IDC readings in % (for the guys who do not have a S-AVCR)
> - automatically adjusting (in a small range) regarding O2 sensors
> - automatically adjusting reagrding boost readings (controllable)
> - parametric change of input/output (10 positions)
> - alarm functions for high IDC or low O2 readings (sound, light,
> activity)
> - serial port to record the readouts on a PC (mini data logging)
> - 2 row backlighted LCD display for the readouts
> - Price including filter : $950 (I'd buy it then)

This sounds almost exactly what the EFI Systems PMS provides.  It has a
larger MAF (hotwire-style), converts MAF to Karman Vortex (Eclipse PMS),
idle fuel and timing control, O2 sensor readout (and datalog), MAP readout
(and datalog), Injector Duty Cycle percentage (and pulsewidth) readout (and
datalog), full adjustment of fuel and timing based upon throttle position
and manifold pressure (and use of nitrous, if so hooked-up), full
datalogging, 2-row backlit LCD display and control pad.

What is missing is the alarm functions.  Right now it is available for the
DSM cars, and I'd think the most difficult thing involved in making it work
on a 3/S car would be 2 more injector and coil drivers and the appropriate
harness to connect it to the car.  Maybe we could convince them to make a
3/S version of the PMS and get almost all of the items on Roger's wishlist?
The price would probably be higher than the target of $950, more like
$1500-$2000, but you get the timing adjustments as well.  It can also work
as a bleeder-style boost controller too.

http://www.efisystems.com

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 08:21:10 1999
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To: "Stealth - Dragnet" <stealth@dragnet.com>,
        "Stealth - Starnet" <stealth@starnet.net>,
        "Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: A - pillar pods
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 09:21:36 -0600
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Does anybody know where to get A-pillar gauge pods in white rather than
black?  The black doesn't go so well with the white pillar in my car.

THX


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 08:39:11 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Max bar/psi on 15Gs
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 08:38:42 -0700
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Folks...

While having my 15Gs rebuilt by TEC, the technician informed me that, even
though the 15Gs will maintain boost at higher RPMs, they are NOT designed to
stand up under higher boost. He claimed that 1.0 bar/15 psi is all they
should be pushed to without creating premature wear. Has anyone else had
experience with this? How long have your upgraded turbos lasted if you've
been running 1.5 bar/22 psi?

I think this is an issue of interest to the entire list. So remember, use
the "reply to all" icon to respond to the list, the "reply" icon if you want
your response to be sent to me alone.

Thanks.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 10:02:43 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:07:39 -0600
Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
Message-ID: <19990610.110744.-4053747.0.David.Moravek@juno.com>
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Hey guys/ gals,

I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get some
chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find wheels
that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell me
where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for my
left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.

David

now you understand why she is my EX.. :)
___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 10:10:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 13:10:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Ground Control Update
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Hello all,

DISCLAIMER:  I know this does not pertain to everyone here, but if someone
has a list of all those involved in the GC group purchase, please send it
this way.  Otherwise, I do not have any other way to inform the other GC
GP members of what is going on. :)

I have just contacted Ground Control about our Group Purchase, and where
we stand with it.  Apparently, they *still* have not shipped our orders
out yet, and have just informed me that they *might* be able to ship it
out by the middle of next week. (grrr!)

They are reporting difficulty in the machine shop getting, "...a part
here, a part there...", which is rather unfortunate. 

Perhaps if we are persistent, we can get them to speed things up for us.

BTW, their number is (530) 677-8600.

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 10:11:51 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'David J Moravek'" <david.moravek@juno.com>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 10:11:22 -0700
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David...

I looked long and hard at the TSW Revo wheels, which are cataloged to fit
our VR4s. Then, along in the nick of time, our listmember Arty offered to
sell his set of 18" chromes. Now I have two sets, one for the strip, one for
the street.

You're right, though, I spent hours going through ALL the catalogs at a
local Tire Warehouse, and surfing at the Tire Rack and found slim pickings.
Errin Humphrey also posted about new rims on Julian's VR4, but I'm not sure
if they are chrome. In any event, stock or aftermarket, they're EXPENSIVE.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:08 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???

Hey guys/ gals,

I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get some
chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find wheels
that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell me
where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for my
left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.

David
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 10:20:59 1999
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Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:25:40 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service
Message-ID: <19990610.112545.-4053747.1.David.Moravek@juno.com>
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This is cracking me up.. heck I did that on my first brake job.  I have
always used "C" clamps, they have never fail me, plus you might have them
around your shop. You can keep the one pad still on the caliper, then put
your C clamp to push in all the pistions. Or have them done, it sounds
like you don't have the tools or the swavy to change the brakes without
damanaging your calipers. That was not ment as a put down , but I would
hate to screw up my car if I could not complete the work without the
proper tools.  If you would like to continue to work on your car, I would
buy the shop manuals from the dealer.  If you need any special tools the
manual will tell you what you need.  the as a bonus, the detail EVERY
STEP that you have to go through to complete ANY JOB. To get a set of
manuals contact MitsuVR41@aol.com to see if he still has his set , he is
selling them REAL CHEAP TOO.


David

On Mon, 07 Jun 1999 15:09:56 -0400 William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
writes:
> Merrit,
>
> Get a couple of 10-12" C clamps that is how most shade tree
> mechanics do
> it.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
>
> Merritt wrote:
> > The Old Poop brake shop knows how to change pads and rotors, but
> obviously
> > I'm not doing it quite right.
> >
> > Any advice on how to deal with recalitrant calipers would be
> greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
Get the Internet just the way you want it.
Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 10:23:42 1999
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Cc: david.moravek@juno.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:29:21 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
Message-ID: <19990610.112932.-4053747.2.David.Moravek@juno.com>
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Thanks for the quick response, Just remind everyone, because it is a 1991
I have 17 inch wheels, I forgot to add that bit of info.

David

Chris - can you say TAX REFUND Check :) that will pay for my tires and
wheels




On Thu, 10 Jun 1999 10:11:22 -0700 Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
> David...
>
> I looked long and hard at the TSW Revo wheels, which are cataloged
> to fit
> our VR4s. Then, along in the nick of time, our listmember Arty
> offered to
> sell his set of 18" chromes. Now I have two sets, one for the strip,
> one for
> the street.
>
> You're right, though, I spent hours going through ALL the catalogs
> at a
> local Tire Warehouse, and surfing at the Tire Rack and found slim
> pickings.
> Errin Humphrey also posted about new rims on Julian's VR4, but I'm
> not sure
> if they are chrome. In any event, stock or aftermarket, they're
> EXPENSIVE.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
>
> Hey guys/ gals,
>
> I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
> wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
> Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
> some
> chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
> wheels
> that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
> everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
> me
> where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
> my
> left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
>
> David
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 10:34:38 1999
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Cc: david.moravek@juno.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:40:18 -0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
Message-ID: <19990610.114025.-4053747.3.David.Moravek@juno.com>
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TSW does not make a tire for the VR4 just the GT. :(



On Thu, 10 Jun 1999 10:11:22 -0700 Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> writes:
> David...
>
> I looked long and hard at the TSW Revo wheels, which are cataloged
> to fit
> our VR4s. Then, along in the nick of time, our listmember Arty
> offered to
> sell his set of 18" chromes. Now I have two sets, one for the strip,
> one for
> the street.
>
> You're right, though, I spent hours going through ALL the catalogs
> at a
> local Tire Warehouse, and surfing at the Tire Rack and found slim
> pickings.
> Errin Humphrey also posted about new rims on Julian's VR4, but I'm
> not sure
> if they are chrome. In any event, stock or aftermarket, they're
> EXPENSIVE.
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David J Moravek [mailto:david.moravek@juno.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 10:08 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
>
> Hey guys/ gals,
>
> I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
> wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
> Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
> some
> chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
> wheels
> that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
> everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
> me
> where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
> my
> left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
>
> David
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

___________________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 11:34:36 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "David J Moravek" <david.moravek@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: I need new Chrome Wheels what kind should I get???
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:34:18 -0700
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I don't remember if it's on their site or there's just a link there,
but TireRack has lots of info about wheels, sizes, and compatibility.
You can also preview what the various wheels look like on your car...
www.tirerack.com

Forrest

-----Original Message-----From: David J Moravek
<david.moravek@juno.com>

|Hey guys/ gals,
|
|I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
|wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
|Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
some
|chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
wheels
|that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
|everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
me
|where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
my
|left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
|
|David
|
|now you understand why she is my EX.. :)



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 12:26:24 1999
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Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 13:52:47 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service
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Go down to your friendly brake place, and ask them to do it, and tell them
you want to watch.
It'll cost about $35 in labor, cuz they can do it in about 30-45 minutes.

Write down everything they do.
Make sure they don't use an air wrench on the lug nuts, cuz that will warp
the rotor.

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 12:26:30 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake service
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Go down to your friendly brake place, and ask them to do it, and tell them
you want to watch.
It'll cost about $35 in labor, cuz they can do it in about 30-45 minutes.

Write down everything they do.
Make sure they don't use an air wrench on the lug nuts, cuz that will warp
the rotor.

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 12:36:25 1999
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        "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 12:36:13 -0700
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Have you looked into repairing the damaged ones.  I know the place I've listed below CAN repair them as I had dropped my right rear off a real twisty mountain road in northern CA and put a 1" outward facing dimple of the inside of the rim - causing it to leak.  They also machine down any of the bumps and bruises that the left side rims can take, then build them up.  Depending on how extensive the damage, its roughly $40-$100 per rim.  They are good - as they have rebuilt / repaired many other rims including spoked models of some really old British models.  You should have somebody in your area that can probably do about the same thing.

Rite-Way Wire & Wheel Spec
1119 Alpine Road, Walnut Creek, CA 94596
(925) 933-4046 
--

On Thu, 10 Jun 1999 11:34:18   Bob Forrest wrote:
>I don't remember if it's on their site or there's just a link there,
>but TireRack has lots of info about wheels, sizes, and compatibility.
>You can also preview what the various wheels look like on your car...
>www.tirerack.com
>
>Forrest
>
>-----Original Message-----From: David J Moravek
><david.moravek@juno.com>
>
>|Hey guys/ gals,
>|
>|I have a 91 3000 VR4 and my EX hit a curb and damaged both left side
>|wheels.  She took about a 1 1/2 inch length of the lip off my rims.
>|Therefore ,I am looking to get 4 new rims.  This time I want to get
>some
>|chrome wheels.  As I am sure everyone knows, it is difficult find
>wheels
>|that will fit the VR4 with it's big calipers.  So I am hoping that
>|everyone that has some after market wheels that are chrome can tell
>me
>|where to look.  After I get the wheels I will not have any need for
>my
>|left side wheels if anyone needs a set of two.
>|
>|David
>|
>|now you understand why she is my EX.. :)
>
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
http://www.hotbot.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 17:50:35 1999
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I haven't recieved any list mail for a couple of days now...  Is there
anyone out there???

Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to drop
1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a good
setup??


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 18:38:29 1999
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From: "Omar Malik" <ojm@iname.com>
To: "pro" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: idle problems
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 20:36:03 -0700
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I come to the pros with a truly weird problem.
Recently I finished changing my timing belt, water pump and springs. At
first my engine ran great, but after a while, my idle started getting
screwy. At first I thought it was my timing, but after checking the belt, it
was perfect. After a week, tension was OK and all marks lined up. My problem
seems to be intermittent. Whenever the car is moving, when I put my foot on
the clutch, the idle drops to about 2k RPM, then drops again to around 1k
RPM, and then revs back up to 2k RPM. This continues with perfect rythm till
the car is at a stop. Then the car goes up to 2.5k RPMs and sits there,
idling. If i move the car even slightly, eg I lift my foot off the brakes
when I'm on a hill, the fluctuating idle kicks in again. This happens ONLY
when the wheels are moving, no matter how fast or slow. This is intermittent
and the car acts like normal sometimes. I thought it was my idle speed
control motor going bad, but even after unplugging it, the problem remains.
Only after taping up the holes in the throttle body leading to the motor
does the problem seem to disappear.

Why would the problem disappear after taping those ports up? Does this
indicate the ISC, or does it just cover up the problem? I would think that
unplugging the ISC would stop it from fluctuating the idle if it was the
part at fault.
What other parts control the idle in our cars other then the ISC?
Why would this happen ONLY when moving? It doesn't happen when stopped,
brakes or not. Could the wheel speed sensor(s) be at fault here? I thought
they were only for ABS?
Could the TPS in any way have something to do with this? Last time I touched
the TPS was when i changed the plugs 6 months ago.
It's this whole motion related thing that's got me confused.
I'm on an extremely tight budget and can't go to the dealer for a while. If
anyone can offer their thoughts on this I'd be grateful.

Omar
92 r/t

PS, the BJ boot on my friends 3kgt cracked and it looks like all the grease
leaked out. how far can he drive the car without damaging the ball joint?


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 19:07:13 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 6G72 shortblock
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 19:03:56 -0700
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I see on the starnet list someone has a shortblock with a couple of rod caps missing --- what are
the
ramifications of that?? Are the caps matched to the rod? I know on some engines they bore the big
end score it then break it to form a unique mating surface, or sometimes they machine to a surface
finish and then put in bearings to match the crank.

Also -- will the 6G72 shortblock  fit the turbo and non turbo DOHC. I assume the turbo has a lower
compression ratio -- is that done in the heads or crank throw or ???


           Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 19:17:21 1999
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From: "BRADLEY A COCKS." <BRADCOCKS@prodigy.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <000301beaf85$741f92d0$e06ebac3@hh-laptop.bern.genesiscom.ch>
Subject: Team3S: STOCK 18'' VR4 WHEELS FOR SALE!!!!
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 22:10:55 -0400
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           I HAVE A SET OF VR4 WHEELS FOR SALE .

        I AM FROM NY AND CAN BE REACHED AT 914-588-5216 OR
bradcocks@prodigy.net


                                   thanks    brad cocks


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 19:38:22 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Rice-Burner Crusher" <stealth_es@hotmail.com>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Anyone there?
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 1999 19:38:08 -0700
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-----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
<stealth_es@hotmail.com>

|I haven't recieved any list mail for a couple of days now...  Is
there
|anyone out there???
|
|Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to drop
|1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a good
|setup??


I've been looking at the Eibachs for my car too; they seem to be the
popular choice...  I think any aftermarket springs are going to cost a
bit of comfort, though.

If you're not getting mail, there must be something wrong with your
ISP.  In the last 2 days just my saved file has over a dozen posts,
plus those I deleted...  It's summertime and lists always get lighter
as folks go out to have fun in their cars!

Forrest


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 10 21:00:29 1999
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Omar;

Our big time trouble shooters are likely asleep, so I thought a couple of quick
suggestions would at least eliminate these possibilities (if you haven't already tried
them) and leave room for them to offer more insightful suggestions when they wake up.

1) Check and insure the MAS is plugged in properly/not a loose connection
2) Check your Y pipe connection
3) Disconnect your ECU and reconnect...sometimes it helps and certainly deletes this as
a possible source of an error in the computer. (ie disconnect battery + for 15 mins)

Best

Darc



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 02:37:27 1999
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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 02:37:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: ARC-GP2 Installed...
To: Team3SI <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Hi All,

  Got my car back today with the ARC-GP2 and RC 550s installed. As of
now, my mods include: a 12in long 4in opening K&N, Trust off-road
exhaust, DSBC, ARC-GP2 MAF kit, 13Gs, RC 550s, Greddy plugs gaped down,
Vitek wires, forged rods and pistons.

  Did some test runs with a G-Tec, but I'm very skepticle about the
numbers and the number weren't consistent. Besides, I'm a very very
terrible 1/4miler (more into open track). So sorry no numbers can be
reported.

  As for daily drivability, there was little difference before and
after installation of the unit. Although, it did stall a couple of
times at the stop light; and a few time some stumbling when rolling out
on 1st gear. Some more fine tunning will probably get rid of it
(hopefully). Throttle response is great with no hesitation as I would
expect from the 550s. Good low and mid range aceleration.  Highway
accel from 5th gear is good w/o any stumbles.

  I can now safely (i hope) boost to 1.15 bar and hold it til redline
w/o any problem of hesitation and leaning out compare to before. No
more 1st gear stumbles during hard accel at high boost either. The car
does feel alot faster.

  Only hard evidence of improvement was midnight test runs with 2 stock
M3s. We did some rolling start runs from 40mph to about 120mph on an
open stretch back road about 3/4 mile long. Although both '98 M3s were
stock, one was about 1 car length faster than the other one
(40-120mph). The slower one has 18in wheels and a boom box in trunk,
would that make such big difference? I have ran with the faster M3
before, I was suprisingly only 1 1/2 to 2 car length faster (40-120).
This was at 1 bar of boost. Tonite, dialing the DSBC @ 1.1 bar: by the
end of 2nd gear, he was still at my rear 1/4 panel. As i shifted into
3rd, my car just left him behind. By the end of 3rd gear (around 120),
I was 3-4 car length ahead! YEAH! We did a few more runs and the
results were the same. I love the 3rd in our cars, pulls strong and
lasts long!

  Conclusion: Very good daily driving capabilty, some more fine tuning
of idling still needed. Significant amt of HP is felt and seen. No more
fear of leaning out in high boost situations. Although some had said
this unit is over-priced, but comparing to the VPC and extra costs of
dual power flow and GCC, I believe its still a lot cheaper. I also
saved money from installation. I have no experience with a VPC so I
can't give any comparison.

  Happy motoring!

George
S. Cal, USA
'92 RT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 05:02:15 1999
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Thanks Matt for the remainder on the EFI PMS. I never contacted them to
ask for a 3S version of it but it's maybe worth asking them. I never did
due to the price but if the system can be adapted to the 3S as well and
there is a more mass to sell the price may drop :)

Thanks,
Roger

> This sounds almost exactly what the EFI Systems PMS provides.
> It has a larger MAF (hotwire-style), converts MAF to Karman Vortex
> (Eclipse PMS), idle fuel and timing control, O2 sensor readout (and
> datalog), MAP readout (and datalog), Injector Duty Cycle percentage
> (and pulsewidth) readout (and datalog), full adjustment of fuel and
> timing based upon throttle position and manifold pressure (and use of
> nitrous, if so hooked-up), full datalogging, 2-row backlit LCD display

> and control pad.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 05:30:00 1999
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Message-ID: <000301beb406$4cb534e0$403fbfce@fred>
From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@mail.magma.ca>
To: "3SiTech list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil pressure and synthetics
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 08:31:13 -0400
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I have recently switched to Castrol Sntec in my '95 TT and I am getting the
oil light at idle when the engine is hot. I also smell fuel on the dipstick.
Is it the oil or have I got injector problems?

Fred
#121
'95 RT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 06:09:38 1999
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Usually, when the car sits and idles we see 800-850rpm and there is not
a lot that consumes power. If you now turn the sterring wheel or the car
starts to move the idle jumps up to around 1000-1500 and comes back
slowly. This is controlled by the ECU and the current levels can be read
out by the MITSU scan tool. With A/C on, this is highly increased and I
saw around 2000 rpm last summer with the car slightly moving. The input
for this is indeed the motion sensor.

IMHO it has nothing to do with the TPS but it's maybe worth checking the
voltage anyways.

Try to do the test with the steering wheel and with A/C on and off and
let us know.

As I read there is no hesitation when driving, right ? What about power,
enough to beat a Beetle (without a Porsche Turbo engine) ?

As Chris indicated, reset the ECU again and see if the stupid behaviour
comes back again. The ISC can control the rpms upon different sensors.
Also temp and barometric sensors play a ruel as the cold start idle must
be controled. INHO, the ECU sees a car that is always in a startup
situation. Idleing of 1200 and 1500 with A/C on is absolutely normal.
Even more after the rebuild last year I had the idle sitting at 2000
before the ECU relearned.

I do not really know what temp sensor that looks for the cold start but
I'd check the water temp sensor if it is porperly connected and if it is
ok. As you changed the pump I think you removed it or al least unplugged
it. Just an idea but maybe an inidcator that the ECU thinks the baby is
still in a startup procedure :)

Hope this helps,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 06:19:52 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil pressure and synthetics
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Fred, what is the oil pressure level ?
Of course, have you checked the oil level when car was warm ?
The oil light is also going on when the oil-pressure switch is not
activated. Although the oil pressure on our gauge shows a good level the
oil pressure switch may switch off during special conditions. At first
this started when my pistons and ring broke. Now it is activated on very
high speeds and driving a little bit uphills.

With Castrol Synthec fill up a little over the top mark. What is the
weight of the oil ?

Smelling fuel at the dipstick doesn't tell good things but maybe the new
oil smells that way. Remove the the ventilation hose from the front
valve cover during idle and check if the stuff smells the same. Also
check if milage is dropping.

If the crankcase ventilation still smells like gas and the mileage
drops, try to use a can of fuel system cleaner to remove possible carbon
deposits on the intake valves.

If all of this doesn't help ... do a compression check. The indicies are
pointing then to broken rings :(( Hope not !

Good luck,
Roger

> I have recently switched to Castrol Sntec in my '95 TT and I am
> getting the oil light at idle when the engine is hot. I also smell
> fuel on the dipstick.
> Is it the oil or have I got injector problems?


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 07:29:05 1999
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To: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Max bar/psi on 15Gs
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> though the 15Gs will maintain boost at higher RPMs, they are NOT
> designed to stand up under higher boost. He claimed that 1.0 bar/15
> psi is all they should be pushed to without creating premature wear.

Well, we know that with 1.0 bar the 15G feeds more volumetric compressed
air that the 9B or 13G. Therefore the 1.0 bars together with the
appropriate fuel does produce more horses than the 13G at the same
boost. but I never heard of a 15G dying due to the fact boost was over 1
bars !! The Supra guys are running 1.3 bars with their stock turbos and
the smaller one is know to die if the sequential stuff isn't working
properly. But my frind is running 1.25 bars without any problems so
far.

But if TEC says not going over 1.0 bars you'll never get above the 415hp
mark. Does this mean TEC doesn't give any warranty if you run higher
boost ?

BTW, I asked Brian/GT-Pro about the 368S I have and he told me that the
producer of them stand for their quality and 1.5bars allover the place
is not a problem. If it is ... I'm getting a new set.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT ... wet.. soon, very wet :)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 13:25:31 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Adventures in braking
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In the for what it's worth department:

I recently installed a set of Porterfield rotors, and took the stock rotors
up to my friendly brake shop to be turned. I had been running Performance
Friction carbon metallic pads, and both rotors were fully impregnated. Now
that I will be running stock pads on the street and Porterfield R4 pads at
the track (all non carbon metallic), I had to get my backup rotors
un-carbon-impregnated so they would work properly when needed (once a rotor
is carbon-impregnated, a stock pad won't work anymore. The carbon is like
glass to the pad).

Much to my amazement, neither stock rotor showed any signs of warping. As
you may or may not recall, I have broken two PowerSlot rotors at open track
events, and both times I replaced them with the rightside front rotor.
Therefore, that right front rotor has been through two complete open track
events, plus street miles, and still shows no signs of warping.

To all those folks who are warping their stock rotors...man, I dunno what
to tell you. It's hard to abuse rotors any more than I do, and mine don't
warp. Maybe it's the WAY you brake that does them in.

Rich/old poop/Somebody stop me!
94/VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 14:22:19 1999
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Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 17:26:18 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil pressure and synthetics
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I can offer the following simple rules that may help you:

With all else equal (engine/oil pump speed, bearing/lash adjuster/squirter
clearances/size), oil pressure will be dictated by viscosity, i.e. the lower the
viscosity, the lower the oil pressure.  Oil weight and temperature greatly effect
viscosity.

Oil will increase in viscosity with use UNLESS foreign fluids such as fuel or coolant
are added.  The fact that you are running synthetic, elevated temperatures, and possibly
a higher than normal fuel content all lead to a low viscosity / low oil pressure
condition.  Lack of oil pressure is very dangerous.  A thin oil film on bearings will
overwork the oil breaking it down much quicker and can lead to a failed engine.

Personally, I would change your oil and install an inline fuel pressure gage to see if
you fuel rail is bleeding down.  If so, you should also have your injectors
cleaned/replaced.  Are you by chance running an aftermarket fuel system?

Best of Luck,
Joe Gonsowski

Fred Richardson wrote:

> I have recently switched to Castrol Sntec in my '95 TT and I am getting the
> oil light at idle when the engine is hot. I also smell fuel on the dipstick.
> Is it the oil or have I got injector problems?
>
> Fred
> #121
> '95 RT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 11 16:38:58 1999
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From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 17" VR-4 wheels / followup
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Hello all,

   In case you can't remember, I had mentioned that I located a place
selling refinished VR-4 wheels, Arrow Tire in Upland, CA.
Well, I just received 2 of the 4 wheels, and wanted to report on my
opinion of them.
THEY SUCK!  .....(just kidding) :)

Actually, they are quite nice!  They look very good for refurbished
wheels.  There are a few small pits on 1 of the two, but not noticeable
from a distance (few feet).  The inside of the wheel is not rechromed (who
cares about that), but I am impressed so far.

I only received 2 of the 4 as I ended up having to order via credit card,
and wanted to minimize my risk.  Arrow Tire & Wheel renegged on COD
shipments becuase they found out that UPS no longer accepts cash, and a
check was too much of a risk on their behalf.

The other 2 are on their way, and I will be (hopefully) receiveing them a
week from Monday.

I have pics of the wheels in case anyone is interested.
(I will probably be throwing them up on a web page soon).

Arrow Tire & Wheel:  800-884-4349 ;  Upland, CA 
                     Talk to Brian

Regards,
   Dennis

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 06:28:09 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 09:27:53 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Track Report - Chapter 4 - Watkins Glen (long)
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Warning long post.  First some background information. Owner-David Skultety.
Car- 1993 VR4. Mods - K&N, Gutted cats. Blitz running at 1.05 bars, Enkei
RP01 17x9 wrapped with G-force R1's 255/45/17, Brad's Porsche calipers with
stock 94+ rotors, Ground Control set up with 650 lb. front & 550 rear, Gab's
adjustable shocks, brake backing plates removed, front camber plates set to
-3.1 degrees with 0 toe and +5.0 castor, rears at -2.0 camber and 0 toe, cold
pressure's - 36 front & 32 rears, pagid orange pads. I have been at Pocono,
Lime Rock, and Summit Point tracks for a total of 15 days so far. First time
at the Glen. The Glen is a 3.4 mile road course in upper state New York. This
is a high speed course with 11 turns and a lot of blind apex's along with
multiple elevation changes. Weather was perfect both days at 80. As this was
my first time here, I had an instructor ride with me for the morning of the
first day. He showed me the line, run off area's and "some" tricks he was
willing to share. Front straight at 120 into a braking zone that goes down
hill. Ninety degree right hander that continues down hill and a little off
camber ( tough turn to learn) . Turn 2 is a 45 right hander starting up a
long hill through a 45 left and 45 right ( turns 3&4) onto the back straight.
At the bottom of the hill just prior to turn 2 you can short shift into 4th,
and keep the go-juice full on through the back straight. The rear will get a
little loose in turn 3 due to some small bumps that upset the car slightly (
translation - pedal full and hang up). Back straight at 140 + into the inner
loop.  VERY  hard braking zone. The inner loop in a quick right, quick left,
quick right combination. You can use a lot of the rumble strips as they have
flattened them out this year. Turn 5 is a 140 degree right hander that goes
down hill with a blind apex, but you can carry alot of speed through it if
you have a clean line and big ones. Turn 6 is a 120 degree left hander that
starts at the bottom of a steep hill. Turn 7 is a 170 degree right hander
that start you on an uphill track. You can load the front end if you brake
late and use the beginning of the uphill section to keep the front end loaded
once you lift off the brakes. Turn 8 is another down hill braking zone into a
100 degree right hander. Turn 9 is a 110 degree left followed by a short
straight into a 80 degree left hander (turn 10). Turn 11 is a 100 degree
right which brings you onto the front straight. That a lap at the Glen. Turns
1, entrance into the inner loop on the back straight, turn 6 into the chute,
and turn 8 are all HEAVY braking zones. I found 3-4 turns very hard to learn
quickly due to blind apex's requiring other reference points to be used ( ie.
trees, signs, etc ). Used 8 gallons of gas in 1/2 hour ( 6 mpg). Once I
started to get comfortable, this track is both a blast and a challenge.
Course is know to eat tires and brakes. Although I had no braking issues at
Summit Point ( 2.0 mile course ), I did start to experience fade after
several hot laps. At noon on day 2 started to get a slight warp in the right
front. Replaced stock rotors with my one used KVR and one new KVR. Prayed
that nothing would snap this time. Bleed brakes and had some discoloration.
After several cruise laps ( 100 front , 110 back straight ) started to get 
comfort level back. Still got fade. Brought it in to cool off. Went out with
the guy who was my instructor the previous day. He has a 911 stripped to the
bone. VERY fast car. On second lap setting up another 911 for a pass in the
down hill short straight prior to turn 6. We got the point by and the car we
were over taking moved over to the right. Some how he moved too far to the
right and got 2 wheels off. Then either he hit something or tried to get it
back on the track ( a no-no). The result was he hooked back onto the track
and appeared right in front of us. T-boned him in to drivers door at 95 mph
and sent him off. We broke the front oil cooler and lost all steering control
and slowly spiraled into the armco on the left. Impact at 50-60 square with
the right front. Bounced off armco and spun 180 degrees coming to rest with
the front end on the track and me looking up hill at oncoming traffic.
Luckily we were on the opposite side of the track from the normal line. 
Thank god for helmets and 5 point harness. No one was hurt, but both cars
were pretty banged up. My chest was a little sore the next day from the
harness, and I had a slight stiff neck from my head snapping forward. There
were a lot of fast cars there, several Bush type cars out for some test time
with drivers trying to break into the "big time". A Ferrari challenge car
that passed my on the back straight like I was stopped on the track and
disappeared within 3 seconds. So overall I had a blast on this track,
survived a wreak, and learned that even big brakes on this particular track
will fade. Started to build cooling ducts last night. Will use 1.5 x 4.5 in
sheet metal boxes that will fit into the inspection covers in the active aero
and have two 2" hoses running out the back end of the boxes into the rotors.
Hopefully this will help. Also will order a neck brace after snapping my neck
like a twig. Will be back at the Glen June 30 and July 1st. Will post again
after that. For more info on The Glen go to  www.theglen.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 07:48:53 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 10:47:36 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Re: Track Report - Chapter 4 - Watkins Glen & Camber settings.
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In a message dated 6/12/99 8:29:32 AM Central Daylight Time, Dskull@aol.com
writes:

<< front camber plates set to
-3.1 degrees with 0 toe and +5.0 castor, rears at -2.0 camber and 0 toe,
cold
pressure's - 36 front & 32 rears, pagid orange pads. >>

Thanks for the great post!  I appreciated that information! 

I am curious about your rear camber settings.  How did you accomplish that? 
I am trying to find a way to make my rear (driver's side) lower control arm
more "adjustable".  I guess I have too much "negative" in my rear (driver's
side) lower control arm; I was asked by my alignment guy to go purchase an
"adjustable rear camber bolt" and to bring it back; well, NO ONE has these
"adjustable rear camber bolt kits".  I believe I have too much negativity;
and I would like to install my Eibach PRO-KIT springs soon; but I believe
that will add even more negativity. 

Please advise!

Thank you!

Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Eibach springs &
Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) custom racing wheels (Springs and wheels not
installed yet).  And Yes, my Transmission is FIXED!!!!!
&
1987 Buick Grand National (way too many mods to list!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 10:06:59 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Track Report - Chapter 4 - Watkins Glen (long)
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> Started to build cooling ducts last night. Will use 1.5 x 4.5 in
>sheet metal boxes that will fit into the inspection covers in the active
aero
>and have two 2" hoses running out the back end of the boxes into the rotors.

David:

Great post!  I want to run the Glen someday - after we do Elkhart Lake and
Mid Ohio, and get a trailer.
It's a long tow from here (Cedar Rapids).

Some advice on your cooling ducts: Keep the hose away from the halfshaft
boot. The hose won't interfere, but if it rubs against the boot, it will
wear it out.  I fabricated a piece of 1x1 in. angle thin aluminum (angle
side toward the boot for protection) to keep the hose away. Drill two holes
and mount the bracket on the caliper bolts. Then, bolt a small 1x1 in.
L-shaped bracket to the angle iron to serve as an anchor for a radiator
hose. Clamp a radiator hose around the cooling hose and  anchor bracket:
this will keep the end of the hose pointed directly at the center of the
rotor and keep it out of the halfshaft boot. 

If you are having any trouble with the front scoops, let me know. I have a
solution for that, too, but it sounds like you know what you're doing.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/Somebody stop me!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 10:17:35 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Springs (was: anyone there?)
Date: Fri, 11 Jun 1999 07:17:09 -0700
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The Eibachs are GREAT springs, but only drop the car 1". The difference is
perceived stiffness exists, but is not uncomfortable. I've driven seven
hundred miles (in a day) with them and have been very comfortable. The RSRs
are also popular, a couple listmembers have used them. They also drop an
inch. The adjustable Ground Control units (subject of a recent thread and
group purchase) can be adjusted to drop up to 2.5" (as I recall). Caution
about too much drop, you're likely to have clearance problems with the
Active Aero in front and the exhaust system from below.

Looking forward...Chris (with Eibachs)

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 1999 7:38 PM
To: Rice-Burner Crusher; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Anyone there?

-----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
<stealth_es@hotmail.com>
<snip>
|Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to drop
|1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a good
|setup??

I've been looking at the Eibachs for my car too; they seem to be the
popular choice...  I think any aftermarket springs are going to cost a
bit of comfort, though.
<snip>
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 10:43:29 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 10:40:21 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
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Hi all,

This is my first post to this list (thanks Roger), hope this post goes
through ok. I am also a regular at 3si.org.

I have a 1995 VR4. Mods are FIPK, Blitz DSBC set to 1.05 peak, 1 bar
sustained. I have new set of plugs to gap to .034 and magnecors waiting
to be installed. Stock everything else. Best 1/4 et 13.227, best mph
105.75, best 60' 1.884.

I like many others that put on an aftermarket air filter, suffer from
what has been described as a "honking goose" a "blowing over a soda
bottle" sound at moderate throttle. I had this bad and it was getting
worse weekly. Theories were it was a leaking stock bypass valve or a
partially opened wastegate. I decided to try a 1st gen DSM valve because
I hear they work good on our cars, so what the heck. I got the valve
from Buschur. He sells the valve with an adapter plate to fit our cars
for $125.00 USD.

It cured the problem!!! Had to tweak the y-pipe hose a little to get it
to clear the linkage for 3rd and 5th gears and the intake side diameter
of the valve was smaller than stock but it clamped down no problem.

I took the stock valve and blew through it with my mouth and was able to
get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the problem. Now I'm
wondering if this was causing loss of boost pressure because the DSM
valve would not leak no matter how hard I tried to blow through it. The
seat of the pants feeling was that the turbos spool up quicker and I was
pressed harder back in my seat. It didn't seem to affect the BC setting
as much as I thought it would. Oh well, back to the track for more
testing.

Glad to be here :-)

Bruce
3Si #0243

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 12:44:19 1999
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From: "Robby" <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 21:40:35 +0200
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Bruce, welcome to the list :)

Have you also tried just to remove the small pipings that are pluged into
the BOV upstream hole ?

As you maybe know, there are some cars that do not have the sound (like
mine, never had it) and others do (I heard it in Jim's Stealth) but we all
have the very same BPV ! The stock one has a little hole in it and this is
something like a little leak, but too small for causing any problems.

>worse weekly. Theories were it was a leaking stock bypass valve or a
>partially opened wastegate.

The second is definitely not the case as it happens only on partial load and
a wastegate wouldn't causing any sound in the intake parts as it is a part
in the exhaust trakt :-)

>from Buschur. He sells the valve with an adapter plate to fit our cars
>for $125.00 USD.

Wow, pretty expensive :(

>It cured the problem!!! Had to tweak the y-pipe hose a little to get it
>to clear the linkage for 3rd and 5th gears and the intake side diameter
>of the valve was smaller than stock but it clamped down no problem.

Just make sure that it will not pop-off under full boost rise !!

>>I took the stock valve and blew through it with my mouth and was able to
>get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the problem.

No, is not as this is normal and I do have the same on my car. I currently
have almost everything stock including the BPV and I can't hear anything
with the K&N FIPK. Of course, the different turbos may have an effect on
this behaviour too.

>seat of the pants feeling was that the turbos spool up quicker and I was
>pressed harder back in my seat.

Why should it do this ? It is smaller than the stock BPV and should vent
more pressure ?? It solved your hooting problem but will not do anything
else to the system. I only may guess that yo ualready had a broken BPV but
your ET's say that the car runs very good without a problem.

> It didn't seem to affect the BC setting as much as I thought it would.

As said, there cannot be any effect.

> Oh well, back to the track for more testing.

And if you see a better time than don't count it to the BPV as it does the
same job as before (but it is somewhat smaller). A BOV may release some more
boost somewhat quicker that may result in better spool-up of the turbos.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 14:14:46 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
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> Have you also tried just to remove the small pipings that are pluged into
> the BOV upstream hole ?

No but I saw them. It looked like a channel that diverted the return into each side of
the intake. Not really tubes. More of a flat Y shaped channel. I didn't see any easy way
to remove it.

> >from Buschur. He sells the valve with an adapter plate to fit our cars
> >for $125.00 USD.
>
> Wow, pretty expensive :(

I know. But the adapter is steel and appears to be very well made.

> Just make sure that it will not pop-off under full boost rise !!

The intake side was only about 1/8" smaller than stock. I got a very good grip on it. I
don't expect any problems. The IC side was same diameter as stock.

> >>I took the stock valve and blew through it with my mouth and was able to
> >get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the problem.
>
> No, is not as this is normal and I do have the same on my car. I currently
> have almost everything stock including the BPV and I can't hear anything
> with the K&N FIPK. Of course, the different turbos may have an effect on
> this behaviour too.
>
> >seat of the pants feeling was that the turbos spool up quicker and I was
> >pressed harder back in my seat.
>
> Why should it do this ? It is smaller than the stock BPV and should vent
> more pressure ?? It solved your hooting problem but will not do anything
> else to the system. I only may guess that yo ualready had a broken BPV but
> your ET's say that the car runs very good without a problem.

I would think that if I can get it to leak with just mouth pressure, it would have to
also bleeding off some boost to the intake??

Bruce


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 14:34:40 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Chris Winkley" <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Springs (was: anyone there?)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 14:34:17 -0700
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I wasn't originally going to get lowering springs, but when I looked
at the pictures of our San Francisco gathering in January (BANG'99), I
realized just how high off the ground my car is compared to all the
other cars.  Mine looks like I've got truck stiffeners lifting the
chassis off the ground compared to the other cars in the line-up.  I
know they ship these cars with rubber spacers in the springs (that are
supposed to be removed by the dealer before sale), but I'm starting to
think that maybe they never took the spacers out on my car!  BTW, I
have an NT, so I don't have to worry about Active Aero clearance.
Just from looking at the pictures, do any of you guys think a 1" drop
will be enough for me?  I don't think so...  My pictures never got put
up, since they got buried somewhere in my move, but Chris Winkley's
and Scott Alcaide's are at:

www.bobforrest.com/Bang99CW.htm
www.bobforrest.com/Bang99SA.htm

Any feedback would be appreciated.  Mine is the '94 Red Stealth (on
the end in several photos...).

Best,

Forrest

-----Original Message-----From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
|The Eibachs are GREAT springs, but only drop the car 1". The
difference is
|perceived stiffness exists, but is not uncomfortable. I've driven
seven
|hundred miles (in a day) with them and have been very comfortable.
The RSRs
|are also popular, a couple listmembers have used them. They also drop
an
|inch. The adjustable Ground Control units (subject of a recent thread
and
|group purchase) can be adjusted to drop up to 2.5" (as I recall).
Caution
|about too much drop, you're likely to have clearance problems with
the
|Active Aero in front and the exhaust system from below.
|
|Looking forward...Chris (with Eibachs)
|
|-----Original Message-----From: Bob Forrest
[mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
|
|-----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
|<stealth_es@hotmail.com>
|<snip>
||Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to
drop
||1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a
good
||setup??
|
|I've been looking at the Eibachs for my car too; they seem to be the
|popular choice...  I think any aftermarket springs are going to cost
a
|bit of comfort, though.
|<snip>
|Forrest











For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 14:57:25 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Bruce Body" <bbody@pacbell.net>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Killed the Honking Goose (Kinda Long)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 23:55:05 +0200
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>No but I saw them. It looked like a channel that diverted the return into
each side of
>the intake. Not really tubes. More of a flat Y shaped channel. I didn't see
any easy way
>to remove it.


All, the small Y-shaped channel in the BPV upward path is just a plug. You
can push it from the bottom (BPV side) and slide it out through the MAS
connection hole. I tried it and had nothing bad due to this but I also never
had the hooting problem :)

>> Just make sure that it will not pop-off under full boost rise !!
>
>The intake side was only about 1/8" smaller than stock. I got a very good
grip on it. I
>don't expect any problems. The IC side was same diameter as stock.

Good, the IC side is what counts.

>I would think that if I can get it to leak with just mouth pressure, it
would have to
>also bleeding off some boost to the intake??

I know what you mean and I had the same thoughts at the beginning. But the
hole is very small and I'd not say that it leaks (i.e. the valve not closing
fully) as it is designed that way. My experience is that this smothens the
behaivour under medium load like with cruise control engaged. Also note that
with the stock wastegate actuator valve almost the same amount of pressure
is bled to the intake due to its design. The drop was not measurable :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 15:03:16 1999
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Ooops. I meant to say "radiator hose CLAMP"


. Then, bolt a small 1x1 in.
>L-shaped bracket to the angle iron to serve as an anchor for a radiator
>hose CLAMP.

Changes the whole meaning, eh?

Rich/old poop
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 15:55:13 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 18:54:54 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Vibration at 75-80 mph
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Having recently rotated my tires, I noticed an increase in vibration through
the steering wheel ('91 VR4). I got the tires balanced and noticed an
immediate improvement. (previous owner had used "fix-a-flat" on one tire
causing a massive imbalance)

I still get a slight vibration at 75-80, especially when cornering or putting
a side load on the wheels (i.e. cross-wind or driving on non level surface).
Dave Trent ('92 Stealth RT/TT) tells me he has the same behavior on his car.
Both Dave and I have stock rims. We have both had all wheels balanced. Dave
had to have one of his rims repaired after a pot hole incident a few years
back. My rims have never been damaged as far as I know.

I suppose we could both have a wobbly rim, but I was wondering if there is
some natural resonance in the front suspension structure that we are hitting
in this speed range. Anyone else have this problem?

Thanks

Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 15:55:18 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 18:54:50 EDT
Subject: Team3S: What is facory recommended tire pressure?
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There is supposed to be a sticker somewhere on the door opening that gives
the factory recommended tire pressure. I can't find it on mine - anybody know
what front and rear tire pressures are?

thanks

Paul Klusman
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 16:10:44 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team 3S list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC-GP2 Installed...
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Howdy George,

You have been able to walk away from the Beemers due to the higher boost,
this is fact. But why is the boost limited to 1.15 bars ?? The musics starts
to play above 1.2 bars for sure. The 13Gs are able to go over 1.35bars !!

Also the stock turbos (or the 13Gs) do not suck more cfm in than the stock
MAS already can deliver so what is the gain of the MAF (with your setup) ?
I'd say with a simple fuel controller (e.g. the ARC without the MAF) you'd
have the same results with the 550cc injectors.

Maybe Brian told you that I'm really sceptic about this stuff (or you read
it on the list :) and I have written my questions to Eric at SplitSeconds.
But I haven't got any answers yet (maybe too technical)

Finally I'm a little confused as Brian told me that he has not to sell this
stuff as I wrote that his post sounded like an add. But you bought it from
him, did you ?

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 17:16:47 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 17:20:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC-GP2 Installed...
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hi Roger,

--- "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch> wrote:
> Howdy George,
>
> You have been able to walk away from the Beemers due
> to the higher boost,
> this is fact. But why is the boost limited to 1.15
> bars ?? The musics starts
> to play above 1.2 bars for sure. The 13Gs are able
> to go over 1.35bars !!

I didnt know if it was safe to boost that high on 92 gas. So how much
is safe on 92oct gas??

> Also the stock turbos (or the 13Gs) do not suck more
> cfm in than the stock
> MAS already can deliver so what is the gain of the
> MAF (with your setup) ?

This I don't know, you know I'm pretty much mechanically challenged.
=)But there is always a chance in the future that I'll upgrade my
turbos again...

> I'd say with a simple fuel controller (e.g. the ARC
> without the MAF) you'd
> have the same results with the 550cc injectors.

Maybe, but the SplitSec MAF if bought seperate (if they sell it
seperate, I dont know) would probably cost around $200?? That's not
much for getting rid of the stock karman vortex style MAS. Besides,
isn't better flow = better performance? Also, Brian gave me a great
deal on it and did the installation for free!! And I just love that air
sucking noise, made me feel faster! hahaha...

> Maybe Brian told you that I'm really sceptic about
> this stuff (or you read
> it on the list :)

Yea, but I dont really know how well it is comparing to the VPC. And I
know you think the ARC-2GP is priced too high, but I did save alot of
money on this deal. Truthfully, I wouldn't buy it if not Brian gave me
this kind of deal. I'd promised myself not to spent any money on the
car.. but... hehe.. u know how it is..


> Finally I'm a little confused as Brian told me that
> he has not to sell this
> stuff as I wrote that his post sounded like an add.
> But you bought it from
> him, did you ?

Huh?? Yea, I did buy it from him. I think he's the only distributor for
this particular kit.

Regards,
George
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 18:17:02 1999
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: <thegtalley@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ARC-GP2 Installed...
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>> to play above 1.2 bars for sure. The 13Gs are able
>> to go over 1.35bars !!
>
>I didnt know if it was safe to boost that high on 92 gas. So how much
>is safe on 92oct gas??


Sorry, I don't know how much the ARC can do. If the EGT are as low enough in
the low 800 area and the mixture on the rich side you should be fine. Also I
don't know what the 550cc are able to deliver compared to the boost.

>This I don't know, you know I'm pretty much mechanically challenged.
>=)But there is always a chance in the future that I'll upgrade my
>turbos again...

Sure :))

>Maybe, but the SplitSec MAF if bought seperate (if they sell it
>seperate, I dont know) would probably cost around $200??

Yes, they sell it for $250 and this is not too much. The GM version of this
style (hotwire) is around $190.

>Besides, isn't better flow = better performance ?

The question is what is "better" flow. What the MAF can is flowing
definitely more than the stock MAS but our 13G are not able to profit from
this. I think 15G and upwards will start to profit.

>Also, Brian gave me a greatdeal on it and did the installation for free!!
And I just love that air
>sucking noise, made me feel faster! hahaha...

Cool ! As I said, the kit is a good thing but not for $1000 ! I'm sure you
got the right deal, hehe.

> I'd promised myself not to spent any money on the
>car.. but... hehe.. u know how it is..

Don't tell me. BTW does anyone need a huge FMIC and piping that is useless
for me ?? On a 3000GT, the whole front bumper must be reworked, a crash bar
must be removed and active aero must go too. No way for me :(

>Yea, I did buy it from him. I think he's the only distributor for
>this particular kit.

No problem, as this might be a misunderstanding from me :)

I've sent SplitSeconds my questions and will make them public when I get
them.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 18:39:44 1999
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To: Bob Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Springs (was: anyone there?)
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I've seen several cars with the RS*R springs and they look great. Not too low, but take
up a lot of the
fender gap very nicely. I believe they are rated 1.5" front and 1.25" rear with 1.375"
overall lowering.
No one I spoke with that own these springs had anything negative to say about them. They
are the
lowest price, better handling than stock, good ride on the street and do not need camber
adjusting kit to
properly re-align. I have a set on order right now, so hopefully soon I can speak from
experience.

Bruce
3Si #0243

Bob Forrest wrote:

> I wasn't originally going to get lowering springs, but when I looked
> at the pictures of our San Francisco gathering in January (BANG'99), I
> realized just how high off the ground my car is compared to all the
> other cars.  Mine looks like I've got truck stiffeners lifting the
> chassis off the ground compared to the other cars in the line-up.  I
> know they ship these cars with rubber spacers in the springs (that are
> supposed to be removed by the dealer before sale), but I'm starting to
> think that maybe they never took the spacers out on my car!  BTW, I
> have an NT, so I don't have to worry about Active Aero clearance.
> Just from looking at the pictures, do any of you guys think a 1" drop
> will be enough for me?  I don't think so...  My pictures never got put
> up, since they got buried somewhere in my move, but Chris Winkley's
> and Scott Alcaide's are at:
>
> www.bobforrest.com/Bang99CW.htm
> www.bobforrest.com/Bang99SA.htm
>
> Any feedback would be appreciated.  Mine is the '94 Red Stealth (on
> the end in several photos...).
>
> Best,
>
> Forrest
>
> -----Original Message-----From: Chris Winkley
> <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> |The Eibachs are GREAT springs, but only drop the car 1". The
> difference is
> |perceived stiffness exists, but is not uncomfortable. I've driven
> seven
> |hundred miles (in a day) with them and have been very comfortable.
> The RSRs
> |are also popular, a couple listmembers have used them. They also drop
> an
> |inch. The adjustable Ground Control units (subject of a recent thread
> and
> |group purchase) can be adjusted to drop up to 2.5" (as I recall).
> Caution
> |about too much drop, you're likely to have clearance problems with
> the
> |Active Aero in front and the exhaust system from below.
> |
> |Looking forward...Chris (with Eibachs)
> |
> |-----Original Message-----From: Bob Forrest
> [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
> |
> |-----Original Message-----From: Rice-Burner Crusher
> |<stealth_es@hotmail.com>
> |<snip>
> ||Anyway, who makes lowering springs for our cars.  I'm looking to
> drop
> ||1.5-1.75", but I don't want to sacrafice the ride..  Who makes a
> good
> ||setup??
> |
> |I've been looking at the Eibachs for my car too; they seem to be the
> |popular choice...  I think any aftermarket springs are going to cost
> a
> |bit of comfort, though.
> |<snip>
> |Forrest
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 18:41:42 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: <Klusmanp@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: What is facory recommended tire pressure?
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 18:41:52 -0700
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I have an NT, so mine might be different, but it's 32 front, 29 rear
for the stock tires.  But that has nothing to do with the tire/wheel
combo you're using now, or the dynamics of your car, or how and where
you drive it.  Recommended pressures are easy on the tire and cushion
suspension flaws, but are not necessarily the best for handling.
Since we own performance cars, it's a pretty safe assumption that
handling takes precedence over how long tires last and our miles per
gallon...  You'll probably find that as a "daily driver" you prefer a
softer setting than when you take your girl out for a spin on some
winding roads on the weekend.  Even the manual recommends +6 lbs all
around for driving at 100 mph (160 kph).  You should definitely test
various settings to determine what feels best for your car, tires,
driving habits...

I always test a new set of tires over a range that far exceeds even
the recommended maximum pressure, and it's rare when the higher
pressure doesn't improve handling.  You'll probably halve the
longevity of the tires, but if it's performance you want, that's the
price...  At the extreme end, you'll find autoX-ers running around 50
lbs up front.  I always drive fast, and there are lots of turns in San
Francisco, and I'm running wide performance tires, so I keep mine up
pretty high all the time, 43/37 front/rear, and I bump that up when
I'm going on a long trip or when it's raining.  With my stock standard
width tires, I used to run 39/33.  (The 6 lb differential is best for
my FWD; your AWD will probably be only 3 or 4 lbs).

Try 46/42 for a few days, then 42/38, then 38/34, then 34/30...  Drive
the same curve a few times at each setting and see how it feels.  When
you find what feels best, then vary just the rears, first a 6 lb
difference, then 4, then 2.  It's really very little work when you
find a setting that allows your car to do "exactly what you tell it to
do" in all situations.

Guaranteed, that 'ideal' tire pressure setting won't even be close to
what's posted on the door.

Best,

Forrest

-----Original Message-----From: Klusmanp@aol.com <Klusmanp@aol.com>

|There is supposed to be a sticker somewhere on the door opening that
gives
|the factory recommended tire pressure. I can't find it on mine -
anybody know
|what front and rear tire pressures are?
|
|thanks
|
|Paul Klusman
|For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
|


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 19:04:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 18:55:37 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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I am currently running FIPK and DSBC in my 95 VR4. I want to increase my
boost levels using the stock turbos. I went to a local shop that has
done several upgrades to 3s cars. I was thinking HKS fuel pump and
regulator, 550/560 injectors and a means to control them such as AFC or
G-Force ECU. There is a lot of debate on DP, precats and test pipe and
as I live with California emissions laws, haven't made a decision on
these yet. I plan on installing EGT, A/F and IDC meters before any work
is done so I have a base to work from.

The shop I went to said that the stock injectors with the 9Bs were
sufficient to run 17psi without maxxing out. They suggested the pump,
regulator, FMIC with piping, G-Force ECU and dynotune. Their installs of
the FMIC looked very clean (saw 2 of them on VR4s), but I have some
concern about going back to stock for warranty work with this setup.
Plus I'd like to keep my car a "sleeper" if possible, but I realize at
some point...

So I turn to the experts about your ideas to get the most out of my 9Bs,
and the 2 scenarios above.

Thanks,

Bruce
3Si #0243

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 19:13:34 1999
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From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Vibration at 75-80 mph
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I have had this same situation on virtually every car I've owned. I
sometimes neglect to do my alignments as often as I should. I think in
my case my tires need to wear into the new settings because my
vibrations always go away after a couple hundred miles of driving. I
always balance, rotate and align at the same time. Maybe this is your
case too?

Bruce
3Si #0243

Klusmanp@aol.com wrote:
>
> Having recently rotated my tires, I noticed an increase in vibration through
> the steering wheel ('91 VR4). I got the tires balanced and noticed an
> immediate improvement. (previous owner had used "fix-a-flat" on one tire
> causing a massive imbalance)
>
> I still get a slight vibration at 75-80, especially when cornering or putting
> a side load on the wheels (i.e. cross-wind or driving on non level surface).
> Dave Trent ('92 Stealth RT/TT) tells me he has the same behavior on his car.
> Both Dave and I have stock rims. We have both had all wheels balanced. Dave
> had to have one of his rims repaired after a pot hole incident a few years
> back. My rims have never been damaged as far as I know.
>
> I suppose we could both have a wobbly rim, but I was wondering if there is
> some natural resonance in the front suspension structure that we are hitting
> in this speed range. Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul Klusman
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 19:25:16 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 19:25:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: The next step (emission)
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Hi Bruce,

--- Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net> wrote:

>  I went to a
> local shop that has
> done several upgrades to 3s cars.

Which local shop did u go? UnderPressure??

> fuel pump and
> regulator, 550/560 injectors and a means to control
> them such as AFC or
> G-Force ECU. There is a lot of debate on DP, precats
> and test pipe and
> as I live with California emissions laws, haven't
> made a decision on
> these yet.

Will the larger injectors or G-Force ECU pass emission?

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 19:33:28 1999
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From: "Michael Dorsey" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: <Klusmanp@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Vibration at 75-80 mph
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 22:36:29 -0400
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I've had the same problem.  When I test drove the car, I noticed it
and had the
dealer put new tires on it, no difference.  Damaged the sidewall ont
he front
passenger tire and had to have it replaced, still no difference.  Just
recently
I had to have the front passenger tire patched, and this time the
vibration is
gone.  The only thing I can figure is that these rims are tough to
balance
correctly.  Out of 3 wheel balances, only one cured the problem.

Michael

BTW, this is on a 98 VR4 with 18" chrome rims.  235/40-18 Dunlop
W-10's.


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> Klusmanp@aol.com
> Sent: Saturday, June 12, 1999 18:55
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Vibration at 75-80 mph
>
>
> Having recently rotated my tires, I noticed an increase in
> vibration through
> the steering wheel ('91 VR4). I got the tires balanced and noticed
an
> immediate improvement. (previous owner had used "fix-a-flat"
> on one tire
> causing a massive imbalance)
>
> I still get a slight vibration at 75-80, especially when
> cornering or putting
> a side load on the wheels (i.e. cross-wind or driving on non
> level surface).
> Dave Trent ('92 Stealth RT/TT) tells me he has the same
> behavior on his car.
> Both Dave and I have stock rims. We have both had all wheels
> balanced. Dave
> had to have one of his rims repaired after a pot hole
> incident a few years
> back. My rims have never been damaged as far as I know.
>
> I suppose we could both have a wobbly rim, but I was
> wondering if there is
> some natural resonance in the front suspension structure that
> we are hitting
> in this speed range. Anyone else have this problem?
>
> Thanks
>
> Paul Klusman
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 19:44:48 1999
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Date: Sat, 12 Jun 1999 19:34:27 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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Hi George,

George Kuo wrote:
>
> Hi Bruce,
>
> --- Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> >  I went to a
> > local shop that has
> > done several upgrades to 3s cars.
>
> Which local shop did u go? UnderPressure??

Yes it was. I kinda like the place. Very friendly people, lots of
business. They have 2 Skylines that the shop owns. One is a 700hp HKS.
One of the techs owns a VR4. You should check it out. Both times I was
there they gave me a tour of the place. Sounds like they try to be
competitive on pricing too.
>
> > fuel pump and
> > regulator, 550/560 injectors and a means to control
> > them such as AFC or
> > G-Force ECU. There is a lot of debate on DP, precats
> > and test pipe and
> > as I live with California emissions laws, haven't
> > made a decision on
> > these yet.
>
> Will the larger injectors or G-Force ECU pass emission?

I really don't know. I didn't ask. I assume that if the A/F ratio and
timing curve's, etc. are correct that it will. Think they would have
warned me though. For example, If they sell me DP, test pipe and pre-cat
pipes, they will not let me leave with them on the car because of
emissions and EPA concerns. They know this is a street car. Don't you
(did) have larger injectors and AFC? Do (did) you pass?

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 20:24:41 1999
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On the various boards and lists, discussions regarding boost are usually
in psi or bar. My DSBC displays it's readings in kg/cm2 as I think other
BCs do also. I know that bar and kg/cm2 are close but 1.00 bar is 14.5
psi and 1.00 kg/cm2 is 14.223 psi. So all along I am thinking that 1.02
kg/cm2 is 1.00 bar.

So when you talk about 1.05 bar, 1.1 bar, etc., are you referring to the
display on your BC, external boost gauge or are you converting the
numbers? I want to make sure I'm on the same page and I've never seen
this discussed anywhere.

Thanks,

Bruce
3Si #0243
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 12 20:45:25 1999
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Most tire shops will fight this tooth and nail, but if you insist they
can balance them on the car. Sometimes this is the only way and if you
get it done, be sure and mark the relationship between all the parts:
tire to wheel, wheel to hub so that you can get them back that way if
need be.

For really bad out of balance there is even a way they can balance using
strobe lights that I have only seen used once, but it works to get the
setuup
in balance enough for the spin to work.

Regards,
Lynn

Michael Dorsey wrote:
>
> I've had the same problem.  When I test drove the car, I noticed it
> and had the dealer put new tires on it, no difference.  Damaged the
>  sidewall ont he front passenger tire and had to have it replaced,
> still no difference.  Just recently I had to have the front
> passenger tire patched, and this time the vibration is gone.  The
> only thing I can figure is that these rims are tough to balance
> correctly.  Out of 3 wheel balances, only one cured the problem.
>
> Michael
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 02:04:27 1999
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From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel system upgrades (was: The next step)
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Bruce Body wrote:
>
> I am currently running FIPK and DSBC in my 95 VR4. I want to increase my
> boost levels using the stock turbos. [ ... ]
> The shop I went to said that the stock injectors with the 9Bs were
> sufficient to run 17psi without maxxing out. They suggested the pump,
> regulator, FMIC with piping, G-Force ECU and dynotune.

Well, we know that on a stock setup the IDC maxes out at 6000+ RPMs.  We
also know that detonation begins at 15 psi on 93 octane unleaded.  Are
they suggesting that a better fuel pump and regulator can overcome these
limitations?

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 02:04:30 1999
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Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 10:55:20 +0200
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Subject: Re: Team3S: intake resonance (was: Killed the Honking Goose)
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Roger wrote:
>
> Bruce wrote:
> >
> > I like many others that put on an aftermarket air filter, suffer from
> > what has been described as a "honking goose" a "blowing over a soda
> > bottle" sound at moderate throttle. I had this bad and it was getting
> > worse weekly. Theories were it was a leaking stock bypass valve or a
> > partially opened wastegate.
>
> The second is definitely not the case as it happens only on partial load and
> a wastegate wouldn't causing any sound in the intake parts as it is a part
> in the exhaust trakt :-)
>
> As you maybe know, there are some cars that do not have the sound (like
> mine, never had it) and others do (I heard it in Jim's Stealth) but we all
> have the very same BPV ! The stock one has a little hole in it and this is
> something like a little leak, but too small for causing any problems.

I solved the problem with a Blitz BOV, which is installed in series with
the stock BPV and only activates at high pressures.  If there were a
problem with the stock BPV or wastegates, then the Blitz BOV should have
had little effect.  No, I think the problem has to do with air flow
recirculation characteristics during light boost.


> > I decided to try a 1st gen DSM valve because I hear they work good on our
> > cars, so what the heck. I got the valve from Buschur.  [ ... ]  It cured
> > the problem!!!  [ ... ]  I took the stock valve and blew through it with
> > my mouth and was able to get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the problem.
>
> Have you also tried just to remove the small pipings that are pluged into
> the BOV upstream hole ?

This is what I plan to do as soon as I get a chance.  My theory is that
these tubes are responsible for the intake resonance and their
modification or removal will rectify the situation.  If this is the
case, the Blitz BOV is coming back off!  I have been unable to measure
any performace improvements with the Blitz BOV and find the trailing
throttle stumble (aparently common to all aftermarket BOVs that vent to
the atmosphere) almost as annoying as the intake resonance.

Good luck... -Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 03:22:21 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost conversion factors
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 12:03:03 +0200
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Bruce, you are very right with your tech conversions and we already had this
discussion some times ago. When I refer to boost of 1.00bars than I actually
mean the kg/cm2 shown on the boost controller. But the figures are so close
and the error of the instrument showing the pressure is maybe bigger. As an
example, I do have the DSBC and the Dual Timer that both are reading the
same pressure but when running both in the same mode I often can see a
difference of 0.02 kg/cm2 or 2 hg at idle. The same with the analog boost
meter here it depends also on the viewing angle what the readings are :)

But if I say detonation occurs around 1.05bars this may mean on some cars
you can see a retarded timing just under 1.00 bars while other have no
problem up to 1.07 bars. You see the quality range (with the many variables)
on the cars is different and this is why each car must be tuned in
individually. This is why we say, for example, that the injectors are maxed
out at 14-15psi and not at 14.22745 psi :)

Happy boosting,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

>On the various boards and lists, discussions regarding boost are usually
>in psi or bar. My DSBC displays it's readings in kg/cm2 as I think other
>BCs do also. I know that bar and kg/cm2 are close but 1.00 bar is 14.5
>psi and 1.00 kg/cm2 is 14.223 psi. So all along I am thinking that 1.02
>kg/cm2 is 1.00 bar.
>
>So when you talk about 1.05 bar, 1.1 bar, etc., are you referring to the
>display on your BC, external boost gauge or are you converting the
>numbers? I want to make sure I'm on the same page and I've never seen
>this discussed anywhere.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 03:22:23 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: intake resonance
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 12:07:45 +0200
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>This is what I plan to do as soon as I get a chance.  My theory is that
>these tubes are responsible for the intake resonance and their
>modification or removal will rectify the situation.  If this is the
>case, the Blitz BOV is coming back off!

Great, let us know as on my car it made no difference (the HKS BOV is
sitting around now)

> I have been unable to measureany performace improvements with the Blitz
BOV and find the trailing
>throttle stumble (aparently common to all aftermarket BOVs that vent to
>the atmosphere) almost as annoying as the intake resonance.

You are very right and especially on low boost situation I hated the
behaviour. But I need something that properly vents the more boost in the
very near future.

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 03:22:29 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel system upgrades
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 12:20:05 +0200
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>> The shop I went to said that the stock injectors with the 9Bs were
>> sufficient to run 17psi without maxxing out. They suggested the pump,
>> regulator, FMIC with piping, G-Force ECU and dynotune.
>
>Well, we know that on a stock setup the IDC maxes out at 6000+ RPMs.  We
>also know that detonation begins at 15 psi on 93 octane unleaded.  Are
>they suggesting that a better fuel pump and regulator can overcome these
>limitations?


Theoretically, more fuel pressure should allow the injectors to flow more
but the spray pattern and their life would be degraded the same way as
running an IDC over 90% the whole time. The stock pump is enough for the
stock 360cc.

Like Jim stated after 14-15psi detonation begins and the timing is getting
retarded (you can see the result directly on the dyno as power is reduced
when boost is increased) Therefore what the most shops are doing is to
increase the amount of fuel and use this to cool the chamber. This will
allow you to increase boost that finally gives you the desired power. But
the stock fuel system is not able to do this without any danger of damaging
something. Pump, injectors and a control device is necessary.

The FMIC is a good solution to cool down the air some more. This will allow
you to increase boost as well as the mixture will be "colder". Well but it's
not easy to know how much boost can be increased !

G-Force ECU can be programmed for the bigger injectors and it does advance
the timing. With this there would not be a need for another A/F controller
(maybe for fine tuning)

Let us know what they exactly mean by dynotune ???

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 05:53:00 1999
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> >> The shop I went to said that the stock injectors with the 9Bs were
> >> sufficient to run 17psi without maxxing out. They suggested the pump,
> >> regulator, FMIC with piping, G-Force ECU and dynotune.
> >
> >Well, we know that on a stock setup the IDC maxes out at 6000+ RPMs.  We
> >also know that detonation begins at 15 psi on 93 octane unleaded.  Are
> >they suggesting that a better fuel pump and regulator can overcome these
> >limitations?
>
Yes, along with the FMIC and piping. I did not mention this in my
initial post, but I told the shop that I do not plan to do sustained
high boost driving. Mostly 1/4 mile at dragstrip, light to light,
freeway entrance type of stuff. If I run any open track events, I will
run more conservative.

> Theoretically, more fuel pressure should allow the injectors to flow more
> but the spray pattern and their life would be degraded the same way as
> running an IDC over 90% the whole time. The stock pump is enough for the
> stock 360cc.
>
> Like Jim stated after 14-15psi detonation begins and the timing is getting
> retarded (you can see the result directly on the dyno as power is reduced
> when boost is increased) Therefore what the most shops are doing is to
> increase the amount of fuel and use this to cool the chamber. This will
> allow you to increase boost that finally gives you the desired power. But
> the stock fuel system is not able to do this without any danger of damaging
> something. Pump, injectors and a control device is necessary.

So was my thinking the better way to go? Pump, regulator, injectors and
a means to control them? 550/560 cc injectors and AFC? I saw someone in
the archives (Jim maybe?) was able to turn consistent 12.1s in the 1/4
mile with stock turbos. Low to mid 12s are the times I'm looking for. If
I can do this with stock turbos and ICs that would be great!
>
> The FMIC is a good solution to cool down the air some more. This will allow
> you to increase boost as well as the mixture will be "colder". Well but it's
> not easy to know how much boost can be increased !
>
> G-Force ECU can be programmed for the bigger injectors and it does advance
> the timing. With this there would not be a need for another A/F controller
> (maybe for fine tuning)
>
> Let us know what they exactly mean by dynotune ???

We did not get into specifics yet. The tech that actually does the write
ups and work on the VR4s is out of the shop until mid next week and we
will speak then. On an earlier visit to this shop I wanted to use it to
dial in my DSBC and find the detonation point and get a hp and torque
curve.

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 06:06:52 1999
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Subject: Team3S: For Sale
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For Sale:

California Car Cover fitted car cover for Mitsubishi 3000 or Stealth. Heavy
cotton cover, flannel lining. Can be used as indoor or outdoor cover. $75.00
shipped. 2 months old

Factory Bra for 1994 3000GT VR-4. Nose cover, hood piece, and earmuffs for
mirrors. Bra perfect, need snaps for fenderwells to attach to car (hardware
store item) all instructions and case. $50.00 shipped. 2 months old

Dealer brochure for 1994 Mitsu VR-4. In cellophane, perfect $10.00 shipped.

All shipping based on prepaid via check /MO. COD please add COD charges.

Please respond privately if interested.

Regards,
Roger Crawford
rcrawford@dbp-inc.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 06:36:06 1999
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Subject: Team3S: More wooohs :(
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Well after replacing my transfer case (Thanx Brad!) I drove my car fine for
3 days no racing no nothing and now the thing is leaking like a sieve of
antifreeze. First thing I thought was water pump but usually waterpumps go
out slower and not just overnight and upon removal of timing belt cover
there was no sign of antifreeze anywhere in the timing belt region. Now I
haven't started tearing things apart but I wanted to see if it is possible
of a water pump failure on our cars without getting the region soaked in
antifreeze. I'm hoping its just a pump or mabey freeze plug! My worst fears
are a cracked block or something else that I don't know of. I have never had
the timing area exposed yet so I'm not sure what to expect and mabey someone
may know what else may cause a massive leakage of fluid each time I drive it
:( Oh there is no sign of water in the oil but its all over the pan though
:*( Oh also drain plug for radiator is tight and its only coming from the
drivers side of the engine. Not a good way to start the summer at all!

92 3000 GTO MMC
500 H.P. of broken fun again :(
Plates (HIPRESR)
(303) 689-4733


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 06:42:27 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: intake resonance (was: Killed the Honking Goose)
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Matthews wrote:
>
> Roger wrote:
> >
> > Bruce wrote:
> > >
> > > I like many others that put on an aftermarket air filter, suffer from
> > > what has been described as a "honking goose" a "blowing over a soda
> > > bottle" sound at moderate throttle. I had this bad and it was getting
> > > worse weekly. Theories were it was a leaking stock bypass valve or a
> > > partially opened wastegate.
> >
> > The second is definitely not the case as it happens only on partial load and
> > a wastegate wouldn't causing any sound in the intake parts as it is a part
> > in the exhaust trakt :-)
> >
> > As you maybe know, there are some cars that do not have the sound (like
> > mine, never had it) and others do (I heard it in Jim's Stealth) but we all
> > have the very same BPV ! The stock one has a little hole in it and this is
> > something like a little leak, but too small for causing any problems.

There was a guy on the 3Si message board that had the problem like me
(both 95 VR4s) and had his BPV replaced with another stock unit and his
problem went away. Perhaps there was a bad production run or the spring
tires with age. I'm pretty sure mine did it from day one though (bought
car new) but was masked by the stock air box. It sounded like a low
vibration or resonance but didn't really vibrate. Only when I opened up
the intake did it become readily apparent.
>
> I solved the problem with a Blitz BOV, which is installed in series with
> the stock BPV and only activates at high pressures.  If there were a
> problem with the stock BPV or wastegates, then the Blitz BOV should have
> had little effect.  No, I think the problem has to do with air flow
> recirculation characteristics during light boost.
>
> > > I decided to try a 1st gen DSM valve because I hear they work good on our
> > > cars, so what the heck. I got the valve from Buschur.  [ ... ]  It cured
> > > the problem!!!  [ ... ]  I took the stock valve and blew through it with
> > > my mouth and was able to get it to leak quite easily! This has to be the problem.
> >
> > Have you also tried just to remove the small pipings that are pluged into
> > the BOV upstream hole ?
>
> This is what I plan to do as soon as I get a chance.  My theory is that
> these tubes are responsible for the intake resonance and their
> modification or removal will rectify the situation.  If this is the
> case, the Blitz BOV is coming back off!  I have been unable to measure
> any performace improvements with the Blitz BOV and find the trailing
> throttle stumble (aparently common to all aftermarket BOVs that vent to
> the atmosphere) almost as annoying as the intake resonance.

I don't know. To me it looks like they are designed to direct the
pressure into the intake along with the airflow. Rather than shooting it
straight up into the intake and possibly creating turbulence in the
airstrip. This concerned me since any turbulence would occur after the
MAS. I left mine in for this reason. The 1st gen DSM BPV took care of my
resonance problem so I am happy. You may want to consider going this
route. It is all metal housing and plunger and appears to be very well
made. Some 3S guys and 2nd gen DSM swears by them. It's only been about
200 miles for me, but I think I will too.
Roger thought it was expensive at $125.00 USD, but most of the BOVs I
see around here list for $300.00.

Bruce
3Si #0243
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 07:25:27 1999
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To: "Bruce Body" <bbody@pacbell.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel system upgrades
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>Yes, along with the FMIC and piping. I did not mention this in my
>initial post, but I told the shop that I do not plan to do sustained
>high boost driving. Mostly 1/4 mile at dragstrip, light to light,
>freeway entrance type of stuff. If I run any open track events, I will
>run more conservative.

A FMIC will profit more of an open track as the cool down period is longer
than on any 1/4 mile. Also it highly depends on the efficiency of the IC !
So was my thinking the better way to go? Pump, regulator, injectors and
>a means to control them? 550/560 cc injectors and AFC? I saw someone in
>the archives (Jim maybe?) was able to turn consistent 12.1s in the 1/4
>mile with stock turbos. Low to mid 12s are the times I'm looking for. If
>I can do this with stock turbos and ICs that would be great!

I don't want to go back into the "stock turbo" discussion but the 9Bs can
produce more than 1.25 bars of boost. And this is definitely enough to go
into the mid 12 or even lower when the car looses some weight. IMHO the pump
should be upgraded at first (get the biggest Walbro pump, good flow, good
price). You can then increase fuel pressure with an AFPR but be careful not
to damage the fuel injectors. Monitoring the IDC is definitely necessary
here.

If the wallet allows it, you should invest in the bigger injectors. For 1/4
mile purposes an AFC works fine (maybe the new one even better) to tune the
ECU in. But I also would say monitoring the EGT, O2 sensors (of course) is
necessary.

>> Let us know what they exactly mean by dynotune ???
>
>We did not get into specifics yet. The tech that actually does the write
>ups and work on the VR4s is out of the shop until mid next week and we
>will speak then. On an earlier visit to this shop I wanted to use it to
>dial in my DSBC and find the detonation point and get a hp and torque
>curve.

Ahhh, I remember the shop, just make sure they know how to use the AWD dyno
now :)

Best,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 07:42:31 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: intake resonance (was: Killed the Honking Goose)
References: <003501beb50b$c6430020$fc18e6c2@roger> <376371F8.2AAEBF26@wiesbaden.netsurf.de> <3763B53A.1AD465E4@pacbell.net>
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Bruce Body wrote:
>
> I don't know. To me it looks like they are designed to direct the
> pressure into the intake along with the airflow. Rather than shooting it
> straight up into the intake and possibly creating turbulence in the
> airstrip. This concerned me since any turbulence would occur after the
> MAS. I left mine in for this reason.

I agree that the tubes are there for a reason and would like to leave
them in if possible.  Of course air is only recirculated by the BPV
under low and off boost conditions, so I doubt it would affect
performance.  At any rate, it may be possible to modify the tubes to
eliminate the resonance while avoiding turbulence (would a bottle top
still resonate if it were modified with notches?).


>  The 1st gen DSM BPV took care of my
> resonance problem so I am happy. You may want to consider going this
> route. It is all metal housing and plunger and appears to be very well
> made. Some 3S guys and 2nd gen DSM swears by them. It's only been about
> 200 miles for me, but I think I will too.
> Roger thought it was expensive at $125.00 USD, but most of the BOVs I
> see around here list for $300.00.

If only the BOV valve ($150 used, BTW) had no side effects!  Perhaps
leaving the tubes alone and replacing the Blitz BOV and the stock BPV
with a DSM BPV is the way to go.  Have you noticed any negative side
effects whatsoever?

Thanx... -Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 08:11:05 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: intake resonance (was: Killed the Honking Goose)
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Matthews wrote:

> If only the BOV valve ($150 used, BTW) had no side effects!  Perhaps
> leaving the tubes alone and replacing the Blitz BOV and the stock BPV
> with a DSM BPV is the way to go.  Have you noticed any negative side
> effects whatsoever?

I just installed it yesterday, but I then drove the car about 200 miles
under various conditions. I could not get it to fault or exhibit any
negative behavior whatsoever. With my stock BPV I could get it to
resonate at will for as long as I wanted. It has a nice sounding whoosh
that's not too loud but let's people know that something good is going
on under the hood:-) Using Buschur's BPV with adapter allowed me to
mount it in the stock location using the stock hoses. This was important
to me. The only problem I had was it initially interfered with 3rd and
5th gears on my 6 speed tranny. I rotated it clockwise slightly so the
diaphragm would clear the linkage and tightened it down. If the car
continues to act like it does now, I recommend it highly. If anything
changes I will post right away.

Bruce
3Si #0243
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 20:43:22 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 17" wheels wanted
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 22:41:59 -0500
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I am looking for a set of 17x8.5 or 17x9 aftermarket or stock rims that will
fit a 2nd gen Stealth TT.  Please reply with detailed description of the
wheels.  If you have a scanned image that would be appreciated.  Include
what model car they were used on.  Cosmetic flaws are ok as long as the
wheels are perfectly round.

Please reply privately to swede@pclink.com

Thanks,
Oskar Persson
'95 R/T TT
3Si # 129

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 13 20:56:19 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 17" wheels wanted
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 1999 22:54:58 -0500
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Sorry for the double post - just need to mention that I don't want any tires

Thanks,
Oskar



>I am looking for a set of 17x8.5 or 17x9 aftermarket or stock rims that
will
>fit a 2nd gen Stealth TT.  Please reply with detailed description of the
>wheels.  If you have a scanned image that would be appreciated.  Include
>what model car they were used on.  Cosmetic flaws are ok as long as the
>wheels are perfectly round.
>
>Please reply privately to swede@pclink.com
>


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 05:12:23 1999
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References: <E6E2E6E20643D211B07F0008C724B438A3C580@WOMBAT>
Subject: Team3S: Stealth Parts For Sale
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 08:10:40 -0400
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>From 91 Stealth ES White:
Hood - Repairable dent at front. $75.00
Front Bumper Cover - dented (minor) $100.00
  The two above items damage was covered by a bra - body man calls
repairable.
Side ground effects - Left and Right good condition $75.00
Rear Spoiler with built in brake light - good condition $75.00
All items price plus shipping and packaging at cost.
E-Mail direct if interested....Mike

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 06:20:49 1999
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 09:20:29 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Ride Height
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Could someone with a stock 93 VR4 do me a favor and measure the distance from
the top center of the wheel well's to the ground, both front and rear. I am
trying to determine how much lower my GC setup is and I forgot to do this
before changing the suspension.

Thanks - Dave S.  93 VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 06:44:29 1999
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Dave, do you mean measuring from the top center of the outside of the
fender ?? My car is currently back to bone stock including the stock
exhaust (it was almost 1cm higher in the rear due to the lighweight
Borla exhaust and missing spare tires, tools, etc.) and I can measure it
tonight (17" rims).

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

> the top center of the wheel well's to the ground, both front and rear.


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 09:48:33 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Springs
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Bob...

I doubt that the rubber shipping spacers, if left in, would raise the car. I
believe they would merely restrict the amount of spring compression when you
hit a bump.

You might be surprised at how much an inch increases the occurrence of
hitting your exhaust on speed bumps and the lip on driveways. It would be
great to hear from some of the RSR owners out there. Any clearance problems?

BTW...your car (give me a ticket red) looks great, in pictures and in
person.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest [mailto:bf@bobforrest.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 12, 1999 2:34 PM
To: Chris Winkley; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Springs (was: anyone there?)

I wasn't originally going to get lowering springs, but when I looked
at the pictures of our San Francisco gathering in January (BANG'99), I
realized just how high off the ground my car is compared to all the
other cars.  Mine looks like I've got truck stiffeners lifting the
chassis off the ground compared to the other cars in the line-up.  I
know they ship these cars with rubber spacers in the springs (that are
supposed to be removed by the dealer before sale), but I'm starting to
think that maybe they never took the spacers out on my car!  BTW, I
have an NT, so I don't have to worry about Active Aero clearance.
Just from looking at the pictures, do any of you guys think a 1" drop
will be enough for me?  I don't think so...  My pictures never got put
up, since they got buried somewhere in my move, but Chris Winkley's
and Scott Alcaide's are at:

www.bobforrest.com/Bang99CW.htm
www.bobforrest.com/Bang99SA.htm

Any feedback would be appreciated.  Mine is the '94 Red Stealth (on
the end in several photos...).

Best,

Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 10:36:09 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: "Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spyder Springs and "Goose Sound"
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 12:35:54 -0500
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I've noticed that most of the aftermarket suspension springs out there say
they don't fit the Spyder.  Does anyone know what the reason is?  I was
under the impression that the suspension was identical to the coupe.  Anyone
know of a company that makes Spyder-specific springs?  I'm not really
wanting to lower the car, just make it feel a little lighter (if possible).

Oh, and about the "goose" noise with the stock bypass valve, it is
definitely the valve doing it.  On my car, GT Alley forgot to hook up the
vacuum line to the stock CBV (after installing Magnacore wires) and only
hooked up a line to the Blitz blowoff valve...  No goose sound, but the
stock CBV will limit boost to only 10 psi without the vacuum hose hooked up.
Without the hose hooked up, there isn't any incoming pressure from the
vacuum line to help hold the valve closed.  With the valve leaking back into
the intake, there was no "goose" noise, but when I removed the Blitz valve
and reconnected the stock hoses to the CBV, I get plenty of goose noise now.

Basically, I don't think it is the tubes in the air intake path that make
the resonance, but rather a "fluttering" of the valve at part throttle.  I'd
personally leave the air tubes in the intake if you are using the stock CBV
(or DSM CBV) as they redirect the airflow towards the turbos to help keep
them spinning and also keep the turbulent air from the CBV away from the
airflow sensor.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 14:50:30 1999
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To: "'robby@freesurf.ch'" <robby@freesurf.ch>
Cc: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: TEC warranty on 15Gs
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 14:50:22 -0700
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Roger...

The folks at TEC didn't say they "wouldn't" honor their warranty. In fact,
I'm not sure how they would know if I was running at 1.0 bar or 1.5 bar.
They just said that running them above 1.0 bar "regularly" (what does that
mean?) would result in premature wear. Their warranty is only for a year, so
they'll get us in the end. TEC said some people are sending their 15Gs in
for a rebuild every SIX months, as a result of running high boost. Not a
good thing, as it costs a HEALTHY chunk of change for the rebuild.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: robby@freesurf.ch [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Friday, June 11, 1999 8:26 AM
To: 'Team3S'
Subject: Re: Team3S: Max bar/psi on 15Gs

> though the 15Gs will maintain boost at higher RPMs, they are NOT
> designed to stand up under higher boost. He claimed that 1.0 bar/15
> psi is all they should be pushed to without creating premature wear.
<snip>

But if TEC says not going over 1.0 bars you'll never get above the 415hp
mark. Does this mean TEC doesn't give any warranty if you run higher
boost ?

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT ... wet.. soon, very wet :)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 15:26:47 1999
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Message-ID: <37658163.B55E2A8F@adelphia.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 18:25:39 -0400
From: RPM Motorsport <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
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There's a couple of shots of the Bee-R GTO underhood shots at
http://www.autobuzz.com/gallery/gallery.cfm. It's located under the
Battle of the Imports. They seem to be using a front mount setup also.
They've eliminated the Y-pipe system.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 16:01:57 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bee-R GTO
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 01:00:30 +0200
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>Battle of the Imports. They seem to be using a front mount setup also.
>They've eliminated the Y-pipe system.

A FMIC normally eliminates the y-pipe. They did this very consequently with
relocating a lot stuff providing a good way to get cold air in. It also
seems that the ABS is removed to save weight and space. Furthermore, the
front exhaust part looks like a nice header design and for sure they have
some big turbos mounted in there !

What did they run and are more close-ups available ?

Thanks,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 16:10:32 1999
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From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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He broke. Ran 20 something at 38 mph. I was running in this event, but I
don't see my picture :(

Bruce

"R.G." wrote:
>
> >Battle of the Imports. They seem to be using a front mount setup also.
> >They've eliminated the Y-pipe system.
>
> A FMIC normally eliminates the y-pipe. They did this very consequently with
> relocating a lot stuff providing a good way to get cold air in. It also
> seems that the ABS is removed to save weight and space. Furthermore, the
> front exhaust part looks like a nice header design and for sure they have
> some big turbos mounted in there !
>
> What did they run and are more close-ups available ?
>
> Thanks,
> Roger
> 93'3000GT TT
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 19:30:58 1999
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 1999 22:29:10 -0400
From: William Lynn Larsen <wlarsen@ibm.net>
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Subject: Team3S: [Fwd: Fw: Replacing MAS with MAF on 3.0L DOHC NA (Dodge Stealth ES)]
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Doesn't look like we will have a PMS for our cars any time soon.

Regards,
Lynn

William Lynn Larsen wrote:
>
> Doug,
>
> Thanks for the reply, but the engines in Stealth and Mitsu 3000GT are
> identical and are not from two different families.  there are 3
> configurations of the same engine family: there is the SOHC 3.0L, DOHC
> NA 3.0L and the DOHC Twin Turbo 3.0L. All three configurations can be
> found on both Dodge and Mitsu cars.
>
> This doesn't change you dilemma on getting a kit for 6 cyl. 3K/Stealth
> engines unfortunately. The concensus seems to be (on our list servers
> anyway) that the PMS is the more complete system which reports and
> controls ALL of the parameters we need to see and contol.  That is
> really too bad you don't have a system for us yet as there are a LOT of
> us looking for something integrated and complete.
>
> Regards,
> Lynn
>
> efi systems inc wrote:
> >
> > Our PMS systems are design for an engine family. The stealth\3000 has 2
> > differant engines one from dodge and one from mit. the mit engine uses
> > the same electronics as the turbo. Our mass replacement is designed as
> > part of he PMS computer and will not work on a 6cyl yet. I have tried
> > for 2 years to introduce one for the 3.0 but it keeps geting pushed back
> > I hope to have an universal mass kit by the end of the summer but who
> > knows it may slide back also. You might try the people at Best products
> > in detroit for help.
> >                 Doug W
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 14 22:55:46 1999
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>From my last knowledge of the Bee-R car, they were utilizing the GT2835 turbos in Japan
and she was running timeslips of about 11 seconds flat. But this is what they have
accomplished in Japan. I have also heard that they have broken transmissions in one day of
running from the excessive launchs they make. I think they are running a Skyline GT-R fuel
pump and their own ECU system and N-1 Style Exhaust system. This is from what I can recall
from my contacts in Japan.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 15 07:59:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 10:59:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Sever Handling problem
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Hello all,

   Well, I have not posted this problem to the Team3S list yet, so let's
see what I can fish out of your collective knowledge. :)

I have a 93 Stealth, SOHC (I'll wait till you stop chuckling....), and for
the past 8 months (!!) I have had, what I would call, a severe handling
problem with the vehicle.

Let me describe the problem.

The car has develope 3 bad characteristics:

   1)  There exists an excessive amount of body roll in the car when
cornering.  This is noticeable in all speeds.  (Ed Fein got the back end
to break out at the October Quickeing last year)

   2)  The steering in the vehicle is less responsive than it used to be.
You are all famaliar with the "point it and it just goes there" handling
of these vehicles.  Now, however, it seems that there is a delay between
when I turn the wheel and when it begins to move in that direction.
Though not long (perhaps .1-.2 seconds), it is noticeable.  This behavior
is much more noticeable at higher speeds.

   3)  The vehicle "wanders", for lack of a better word, on the road.
This wandering behavior is directly proportional to the speed of the
vehicle, as I have noticed the vehicle tends to move about more and more
at higher speeds.  I no longer feel safely in control of the vehicle over
100 (not that I go this fast typically).  As an example, I was getting on
the highway yesterday (no one around) and decided to let go of the
steering wheel.  Without the wheel moving (still straight), the vehicle
traversed all 3 lanes pretty quickly! (whoa!)  This is bad...

Now I suspect that all 3 of these characteristics are intrinsically tied
together.  For example, when driving down the highway, I can detect a
slight amount of body roll just before the car begins to "wander".

Also, I can feel each corner of the vehicle absorbing bumps and road
hazards independently of one another, whereas before I could only feel
the "front" or "back" handling the hazard.  That is, it seems like the
front struts and rear shocks are no longer acting together.

Before you read on, I hope you can postulate on what the possible causes
of this are.




Okay, now onto what has been done to the car.

Before the car began to act up, I had a leaky front struts.  Since I was
needed a new strut, I decided to replace the struts/shocks all the way
around.  While I was at it, I replaced the tires as well.  The newer ones
are only 20mm wider on the foot and 5% narrower on the sidewall.

In addition, my mechanic noticed that my right front CV Joint boot was
gone (completely).  He looked at it, and said it still looked good, but
just needed a litle more grease.  So he greased it up and but a new boot
on it.

The problem began 6,000 miles (almost exactly) after I had this work done
to the car.  The behavior change was instantly noticeable, and just has
become progressively worse.

I have had a couple of different dealerships look at it, and could not
find anything wrong.  However, I trust them about as far as I could throw
them.

Just as an FYI, I have had the tires rotated and balanced every 5,000
miles, and have had an alignment performed twice.

I know that there are several possibilities here (tires, bad
struts/shocks, improper installation, CV joint), but I am at a loss on
several points here, as I am not certain what to look for to see if these
things are "bad", per se.

Ed Fein suggested that I replace the struts or get some lowering springs,
and, hoefully, this will alleviate things.  However, he warned that this
might mask the problem, which is my concern.

Right now, I am replacing the following 3 things on my car:
   springs with Ground Control springs
   front struts with GABs
   wheels with 17" wheels (were 15")

By replacing these components, I hope I will "fix" things.  However, I am
concerned that I will be "masking" a problem...

Phew!  My fingers hurt!

So, can anyone help me out on this  I would greatly appreciate it!

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 15 16:11:33 1999
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 19:04:30 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Strut bushing?
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Hi all,

I am trying to "unseize" my driver's side rear strut; I am afraid of
blow-torching it because I may melt away the rubber bushing located at the
bottom end of the strut.  Can we get bushings from Mitsubishi or any other
aftermarket company?  I already tried Mitsubishi (they said the whole strut
comes as one piece!) and already attempted with Energy Suspension (they do
NOT make bushing parts for our cars as of yet). 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Eibach springs &
Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) custom racing wheels (Springs and wheels not
installed yet).
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 15 16:25:28 1999
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To: "'TurboDrvn@aol.com'" <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bushing?
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 16:25:28 -0700
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Ahmed...

Well, I ended up having to do that when I changed my springs. I had the same
concern, but after spraying with every compound under the sun (and pounding
the heck out of the nut with a breaker bar and socket), we gave up and took
a torch to it. Amazingly enough, the rubber didn't melt, but it did break
loose. All I can say is, I sure was glad I had it on a rack. I can't imagine
doing that from on my back.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 15, 1999 4:05 PM
To: stealth@starnet.net; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Strut bushing?


Hi all,

I am trying to "unseize" my driver's side rear strut; I am afraid of

blow-torching it because I may melt away the rubber bushing located at the
bottom end of the strut.  Can we get bushings from Mitsubishi or any other
aftermarket company?  I already tried Mitsubishi (they said the whole strut
comes as one piece!) and already attempted with Energy Suspension (they do
NOT make bushing parts for our cars as of yet). 

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!

Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 15 17:07:01 1999
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Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 20:11:06 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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I decided that my turbo & head rebuilds, new plugs and wires, cleaned
intercooler hard pipes and intercoolers all add up to enough potential
performance change that I should reset the EVC memory so it can relearn
the boost curve.  The following questions are asked because something
went wrong, I no longer hold boost to the desired level.

A few questions on the HKS EVCIII:
1) First a general question.  The three WOT runs from 1,000 rpm were
done at stock boost levels (is stock boost something you control by
setting the EVC before erasing its memory?).  Does this learning process
also optimize the boost control for when your running higher than stock
boost?  Is there an issue with frequent changing of the high and low
settings?  Example, say I keep the low setting at .64 bars (9.3 psi) and
the high at 1.04 bars (15.1 psi) but occassionally set the high at 1.24
bars (18.0 psi) when at the track with high octane.  In each case, will
it take time for the EVC to learn the new boost setting or will it be
ready to go just as quick as I can set it?

2) While going through my three self learning mode runs (in 2nd gear)
the EVC would beep indicating it was done well before I climbed very
high in the rpm range.  Would it be better if I started at a higher rpm
so I'd reach at least 4,000 to 5,000 rpm before it beeps?

3)  Once I completed the three runs (under IDENTICAL conditions) I
settled in and put it to the test.  With .64 bars (~9.3 psi) entered
into the EVC I eased into the throttle in 3rd gear on the highway
watching the boost gage come up on 9, hold for about a second then
continue on to 17 psi.  I've got fuel upgrades that can handle the
higher boost, but that's not the point.  Question is, if I run the car
enough times, will the boost controller learn how to handle my setup or
do I need to re-perform the self learning process?

Other settings (besides high and low boost) are offset (100), scramble
boost and time (0 & 0), and overboost (1.31 bars).

This is more of a statement than a quesiton, but please correct me if
I'm wrong.  The VPC & EVC act completely independently of each other,
i.e. the VPC delivers fuel based on what it reads in the intake and not
what the EVC reads or is set at.  The VPC and EVC are two completely
independent systems.

Thanks, I know this was a lot of questions, but I'll be happy if even a
few are answered.
Joe Gonsowski
'92 RT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 15 17:22:00 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>,
        "TEAM 3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Severe Handling problem (long answer).
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 17:21:15 -0700
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Hey, Dennis,

Probably everyone will agree that it sounds like multiple problems
here, but since I'm among the few SOHC drivers on the list ('94
Stealth), I'll see if I can point you in a good direction (no pun) :-)
...  The first thing I know I can help with is the tires and
inflation, similar to another I posted recently.  The FWDs in
particular have a pretty strong tendency to understeer, and the
solution to that (for me) was from an old post on Starnet a couple of
years ago (by Katri, who used to race an SOHC)--  eliminate the
understeer by making the fronts more "nimble" relative to the rears
with a 6 LB differential instead of the recommended 3 LB...  making
the rears "drag" a bit, as it were, by the added rolling resistance of
relatively softer tires.  I too have 'fat' performance tires (10" wide
footprint, 16" DOHC wheels instead of the stock 15"), and not only
will they "track" at recommended pressure (they will catch grooves in
the road, and lines between pavement sections, and pull the car all
over the road), but the car will wallow as you describe, as well.  The
car will feel more like an ATV than a sports car...

TRY THIS!: inflate the fronts to 46, and the rears to 40 instead of
the ridiculous 32/29 or whatever it is...; reduce that by 4 lbs all
around after a few days of driving, and then another 4 lbs until you
find a setting that feels good.  But start that high!!!  You may find
(like I did) that that extreme setting makes the car handle best.  (I
also took Katri's advice and added a -1 degree camber in front).  You
won't believe the difference!  And yes, your tires will wear out
faster, but who cares?!  Harder tires will also give you a better top
end, but slower starts off the line, since you've got less rubber on
the road.  Again, a fair trade-off for better control and SAFETY!!!

A related issue is that our cars have a 3 level computer controlled
steering assist, which is strongest for parking (tires angled a lot)
and weakest at speed (tires in a straight line).  You'll see the logic
that if something pulls your tires at an angle, the assist will try to
"help" them do so, in effect trying to help you around a sudden
obstacle, or, throw you into the gully when there's something else
(like "tracking") pulling your tires out of straight.  Reducing the
tracking will also somewhat alleviate this steering assist problem.
The time delay you're experiencing could well be the assist "kicking
in" when you don't want it...

Let us know how you make out with "Phase I - how to drive in a
straight line"  :-)

Regards,

Forrest

-----Original Message-----From: Dennis G. Bretton
<dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
|Hello all,
|
|   Well, I have not posted this problem to the Team3S list yet, so
let's
|see what I can fish out of your collective knowledge. :)
|
|I have a 93 Stealth, SOHC (I'll wait till you stop chuckling....),
and for
|the past 8 months (!!) I have had, what I would call, a severe
handling
|problem with the vehicle.
|
|Let me describe the problem.
|
|The car has develope 3 bad characteristics:
|
|   1)  There exists an excessive amount of body roll in the car when
|cornering.  This is noticeable in all speeds.  (Ed Fein got the back
end
|to break out at the October Quickeing last year)
|
|   2)  The steering in the vehicle is less responsive than it used to
be.
|You are all famaliar with the "point it and it just goes there"
handling
|of these vehicles.  Now, however, it seems that there is a delay
between
|when I turn the wheel and when it begins to move in that direction.
|Though not long (perhaps .1-.2 seconds), it is noticeable.  This
behavior
|is much more noticeable at higher speeds.
|
|   3)  The vehicle "wanders", for lack of a better word, on the road.
|This wandering behavior is directly proportional to the speed of the
|vehicle, as I have noticed the vehicle tends to move about more and
more
|at higher speeds.  I no longer feel safely in control of the vehicle
over
|100 (not that I go this fast typically).  As an example, I was
getting on
|the highway yesterday (no one around) and decided to let go of the
|steering wheel.  Without the wheel moving (still straight), the
vehicle
|traversed all 3 lanes pretty quickly! (whoa!)  This is bad...
|
|Now I suspect that all 3 of these characteristics are intrinsically
tied
|together.  For example, when driving down the highway, I can detect a
|slight amount of body roll just before the car begins to "wander".
|
|Also, I can feel each corner of the vehicle absorbing bumps and road
|hazards independently of one another, whereas before I could only
feel
|the "front" or "back" handling the hazard.  That is, it seems like
the
|front struts and rear shocks are no longer acting together.
|
|Before you read on, I hope you can postulate on what the possible
causes
|of this are.
|
-------------mods snipped----------


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 15 17:33:56 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Tire Report
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 1999 17:33:44 -0700
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Just to relay some info(got new tires 2 weeks ago):

Old Tires:  Goodyear Eagle RS-A 225/55/HR16
Rims: stock 16x8
Mileage: about 30,000
Tread when replaced:  2/32" Rear, 0" Front
(due to tire smoking and 180 practice party :)

New Tires: Firestone Firehawk SZ50 245/50/ZR16
Rims: stock 16x8
Price: $160 each at local Firestone

Verdict: Holy cool tires, Batman!
Linear Traction: Much Better
Lateral Traction: Better
Dry Traction: Better
Wet Traction: Amazingly Better
Road Noise: Much Quieter
Ride Comfort: Smoother  (?!?)
Rubbing on Suspension: None at all

My squeal point on must exit ramps is increased by 5-10mph in most cases. I
can almost drive at the same traction limits in the wet as I can in the dry
(big difference from old tires).  I don't quite understand the lower road
noise and smoother feel, but hey, I'm not complaining:)  We'll see how long
they last and how they perform over time, but as of now, I definitely
recommend them.

--Erik

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 55k mi
------                                             ----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here one will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality here and now."   
                                              --T. S. Eliot
-------------------------------------------------------------


           
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 00:28:27 1999
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> 2) While going through my three self learning mode runs (in 2nd gear)
> the EVC would beep indicating it was done well before I climbed very
> high in the rpm range.  Would it be better if I started at a higher
> rpm so I'd reach at least 4,000 to 5,000 rpm before it beeps?

AFAIK (and I'm not the expert on the EVC) the controller stops learning
when the boost curve flattens out. This happens right after 3k and boost
does stay constant then. But it needs several runs until the proper
curve without too much overbosot is created.

> With .64 bars (~9.3 psi)....
> watching the boost gage come up on 9, hold for about a second then
> continue on to 17 psi.

Why is this ?? We already learned that the EVCs jump over the boost that
has been set but this is definitely too high !??

> The VPC & EVC act completely independently of each other,
> i.e. the VPC delivers fuel based on what it reads in the intake and
> not what the EVC reads or is set at.  The VPC and EVC are two
> completely independent systems.

Your statement is absolutely correct !

Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 04:58:27 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'Stealth'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Crank it up !!
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 07:51:42 -0400
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Well I have changed all my fluids and determined that the 60,000 mile
service was done on my car by the previous owner so I am ready to turn up
the boost.  I ordered the Blitz SSBC and dual turbo timer from Summit
today.  Is there anything I need to know about the SSBC?  Should I have
ordered the DSBC?  I am not planning on going over 1.0 bar since reading a
few websites warning against it.  I am really interested in setting up the
low mode to improve city driving.  It always feels like the car is ready to
take off driving around the city and really is annoying.  You know what I
mean, you really feel the turbo kick in.  Really the power curve is not
linear and makes driving around town just a little annoying.  Has anyone
tried setting their low setting at say 6 psi (~.42 bar) ?  Does it improve
drivability? I am sure it would improve engine and turbo life.  Also any
suggestions on hiding the boost controller incase of warrenty service?

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 05:47:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Crank it up !!
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> Well I have changed all my fluids and determined that the 60,000 mile
> service was done on my car by the previous owner so I am ready to turn

> up

Good start :)

> Is there anything I need to know about the SSBC?  Should I have
> ordered the DSBC?  I am not planning on going over 1.0 bar since

The SSBC is REALLY the cheapest EBC on the market and it works. But it
lacks from some safety and tuning features including the boost meter.
Ok, you have it in the dual timer and therefore do not need it there.
Also the SSBC uses one of the small solenoids of the DSBC and the thing
is pretty small for two wastegates. The DSBC is definitely worth the
more money and I'd get this guy. But please also note that the DSBC is
not easily to tune in and needs more manual work than other good
controllers (I'd install the Apexi S-AVCR in your car, fire and forget)

It is good not to boost up more than 1 bars or say 14-15 psi as
detonation occurs pretty soon after this without dumping more fuel into
the chambers.

> low mode to improve city driving.

The question is that on what rpms you drive around in the city. The full
boost is there from around 3000rpm and if you drive around at 2000 than
you have the same power as an NT car but with additional weight ! Then
more power will become available around 2500 and power/tourque is rising
fast.

> Really the power curve is not linear and makes driving around town
> just a little annoying.

The "turbo kick" will be even more improved by cranking up boost as the
power kicks in more drastic compared to stock and peak torque is higher
and shifted up to the upper rpm area.

> Has anyone tried setting their low setting at say 6 psi (~.42 bar) ?

This is stock on my 93'3k and as I had to detune everything for the gov.
test I drove it for a few days like this. Damn, I felt like sitting in a
New Beetle and I was close to put the "slow turtle" sticker on the car
:( Guess how fast the BC was reconnected. The driveabilty was and is
good in any circumstances.

If you want to improve engine and turbo life .. cancel your order now.
If you don't want to hurt anything but want to have a good power under
your back, don't go over 1 bar of boost and enjoy :) Increasing boost
makes the car more acting like a wild pony. Sometimes when driving on
the highway and lifting the cruise control lever to resume to the
previeous set speed, the car starts to walk away like you'd give full
throttle and as it reaches the speed it acts pretty rude. This because
the cruise control doesn't know that there is more boost and acts
"normal". Not a big deal but a changement in driveablity :)

> suggestions on hiding the boost controller incase of warrenty
service?

Use a velcro tape and mount it inside the armrest. Unhooking it keeps
the valve staying open and the car acts like stock. Null problemo !

BTW, don't forget to regap the plugs. This is some more work but worth
the hassle !

Good luck
Roger
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 06:55:59 1999
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Maybe this is somewhat old information, but have a look at :

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/newafc.htm

Roadrace Engineering had a chance to try this thing out and made a good
review of it. Additionally, there is some good information (basic and
advanced) on the same page about fuel control, knock, EGT, etc.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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> I don't want to go back into the "stock turbo" discussion but the 9Bs can
> produce more than 1.25 bars of boost. And this is definitely enough to go
> into the mid 12 or even lower when the car looses some weight. IMHO the pump
> should be upgraded at first (get the biggest Walbro pump, good flow, good
> price). You can then increase fuel pressure with an AFPR but be careful not
> to damage the fuel injectors. Monitoring the IDC is definitely necessary
> here.

Do you know about when these discussions took place? I am up to Dec. 31
in the archives and haven't found it yet. I'm starting to think the shop
I'm talking with doesn't know our cars that well after all. They still
insist the stock injectors will handle 17 lbs. boost with only pump,
AFPR and FMIC.

> If the wallet allows it, you should invest in the bigger injectors. For 1/4
> mile purposes an AFC works fine (maybe the new one even better) to tune the
> ECU in. But I also would say monitoring the EGT, O2 sensors (of course) is
> necessary.

The way I'm reading, the ECU will control larger injectors at less than
WOT, is this correct? Thus the AFC, etc. is only used at the upper rpms.

Thanks,

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 07:53:30 1999
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> Do you know about when these discussions took place?

Umpf, I just remember a long discussion about "1/4 mile time with stock
turbos" and such stuff. Dunno exactly when it was. Anyways, doing the
proper fuel upgrades and preventing any detonation the stock turbos last
pretty long :)

> I'm starting to think the shop I'm talking with doesn't know our cars
> that well after all. They still insist the stock injectors will handle

> 17 lbs. boost with only pump, AFPR and FMIC.

This is easy, just ask them what the IDC is around 15 psi (will be over
90%) Also ask them what IDC is dangerous or at least not good for the
injectors (over 90%) Finally ask them what happens at 99%-100% IDC (fuel
cut)

You can run higher boost with a lower temperature of the intake air as
this will lower the knock sensitivity. But there is still some fuel
needed to gain the desired energy and the stock Inj. can not deliver it.


> The way I'm reading, the ECU will control larger injectors at less
> than WOT, is this correct? Thus the AFC, etc. is only used at the
> upper rpms.

The S-AFC in particular is not throttle related but rpm based. This
means an AFC intercepts the signal comming from the MAS and alters the
frequency or voltage level that then goes into the ECU. Therefore, if
you install bigger injectors, you can reduce the given frequency to
"lean" out the mixture. An ECU alone cannot compensate for bigger
injectors as the parameters stored in the table just doesn't make any
sense then and this results in an extreme rich mixture. Not to mention
that your car will get "drunk" at idle at dies pretty quick.

Leaning the stuff out with an AFC let's the ECU think everything is
still ok and you're getting a good fuel map choosen within the ECU :)
The range is in steps allover the rpm band and works like a parametric
equalizer.

Although the S-AFC is not the best solution as it works as an rpm-based
fine tuning but it's ok to adapt for bigger injectors (say 560cc max).
The ECU finally makes the adjustments on its fuel map then to get the
best out of the engine. With this you are able to lean it out in the
lower and mid area to gain some good power and to richen the mixture in
the power region (5400-5600) to prevent detonation by just dumping fuel
into the chambers (I hate this waste !)

17 psi or almost 1.2kg/cm2 (or 1.17 bars) is definitely too much for the
stock injectors. You can maybe have a short peak up to 1.1 bars or so
but I'd not do this anyways. On the dyno, we saw the car running on the
rich side and slowly increased boost. At around 1.05bars the power
decreased due to the timing that got more and more retarded. But the
injectors where at around 90% then and increasing the fuel to prevent
the detonation would cause a higher IDC then. On an earlier dyno-session
we tuned the AFC in and we tried to enrichen it but went into fuel cut
at 1.1 bars :( ... not good on the dyno.

As I mentioned in my earlier post, increasing the fuel pressure also
increases the flow and one will see a 360cc injector flowing 400cc then.
Ask them about this and when they can give you the numbers your
injectors will flow and the desired fuel pressure and a warranty that
the injectors do not get damaged ... then why not trying this out ?  It
would be interesting to see how much less the IDC will become with each
psi fuel pressure is being increased and how much the pressure can be
increased without degrading the spray pattern and killing the longevity
of them.

As a conclusion, I think if one is doing an upgrade to the fuel system
then he should do the stuff that is related together : pump, injectors,
control (ECU, AFC, etc.). The cost for injectors and a control device
will be close or higher as a FMIC but I think this is the right step in
going forward. The FMIC is then good for the very next step to reduce
the amount of fuel that is currently wasted to cool the chamber.

Let us know what they tell you :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 09:53:32 1999
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From: "Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
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Subject: RE: Team3S: fuel system upgrades
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Bruce,

UPRD told me the same thing when I went there. They told me that our
cars don't hit fuel cut until 17lbs of boost. This might be so, but my
understanding of the term 'fuelcut' made me take their advice with a grain
of salt. On DSM cars, which UPRD is very familiar with, fuelcut is triggered
by the ECU when a predetermined level of air is being drawn into the intake.
This predetermined level is VERY conservative in stock form on the DSMs and
Mitsubishi sets it at such a low level for reliability purposes. Supposedly,
even on stock turbos they can get fuelcut if it's cold enough. The point
is... the fuelcut level on DSMs are so low at stock, that detonation is
impossible to reach without first bumping your head on the fuelcut limiter.
So in the minds of techs who work on DSMs, fuelcut is the first obstacle
they encounter.

With our cars it's a different story. We may very well get fuelcut
at 17, but the fuelcut is being triggered by too much air being ingested.
WELL BEFORE THIS POINT, we are experiencing detonation in our cars due to
the temperature of the intake charge. Set your boost to 17 and you'll get
your fuelcut as they advertise, but I'd guess you'd also get severe
detonation while your engine is running between 15 and 17 lbs. of boost.
According to Roger Gerl's experiences, the ECU does not detect the high rpm
detonation quickly enough to retard timing and save the engine.

Unfortunately, our weakest link is NOT fuelcut... it's detonation.

Seeya!

Dave Allison


-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Body [mailto:bbody@pacbell.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 1999 6:59 AM
To: R.G.
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel system upgrades


> I don't want to go back into the "stock turbo" discussion but the 9Bs can
> produce more than 1.25 bars of boost. And this is definitely enough to go
> into the mid 12 or even lower when the car looses some weight. IMHO the
pump
> should be upgraded at first (get the biggest Walbro pump, good flow, good
> price). You can then increase fuel pressure with an AFPR but be careful
not
> to damage the fuel injectors. Monitoring the IDC is definitely necessary
> here.

Do you know about when these discussions took place? I am up to Dec. 31
in the archives and haven't found it yet. I'm starting to think the shop
I'm talking with doesn't know our cars that well after all. They still
insist the stock injectors will handle 17 lbs. boost with only pump,
AFPR and FMIC.

> If the wallet allows it, you should invest in the bigger injectors. For
1/4
> mile purposes an AFC works fine (maybe the new one even better) to tune
the
> ECU in. But I also would say monitoring the EGT, O2 sensors (of course) is
> necessary.

The way I'm reading, the ECU will control larger injectors at less than
WOT, is this correct? Thus the AFC, etc. is only used at the upper rpms.

Thanks,

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 09:59:04 1999
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Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> Oh, and about the "goose" noise with the stock bypass valve, it is
> definitely the valve doing it.

Thanx for posting the results of your "test!"  This will save me the
trouble of performing similar experiments here.  I never thought about
valve flutter - that's a great theory!  I wonder if there is a way to
modify the BPV to eliminate this problem...

Would someone with a stock BPV off the car please take a look and see if
anything looks adjustable or servicable?  Thanx!

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 09:59:09 1999
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Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> they'll get us in the end. TEC said some people are sending their 15Gs in
> for a rebuild every SIX months, as a result of running high boost. Not a
> good thing, as it costs a HEALTHY chunk of change for the rebuild.

Not to meantion that it is a ROYAL PITA to remove them and a huge
inconvenience to have to send them off for who knows how long...

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 10:11:38 1999
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I am looking for Bob's new page, if it exists. I just purchased an IMP
intake manifold and wanted to install the VPC hoses etc. like the setup
on his page.

If you remember the setup or have the new site, I would appreciate the
info! THX

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 10:50:59 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: "Goose Sound"
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> Thanx for posting the results of your "test!"  This will save me the
> trouble of performing similar experiments here.  I never thought about
> valve flutter - that's a great theory!  I wonder if there is a way to
> modify the BPV to eliminate this problem...
>
> Would someone with a stock BPV off the car please take a look and see if
> anything looks adjustable or servicable?  Thanx!

> Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany

I have a spare one that I got from Todd Shelton.  Unfortunately the valves
for all years are not interchangeable as they changed where the outlet is
for '94 and later to clear the tranny linkages, so I couldn't try it to see
if the older version makes the noise on my car as well.  Looking at the
valve, there isn't really anything adjustable.  There's a hole in the middle
of the valve disc, but that is plugged by the actuator arm.  It might* be
possible to crush it like the DSM guys do, but I'm not sure that's really
what we're looking for.  More spring pressure might do it, which crushing
the valve would do.  However, it might cause more compressor surge if the
valve doesn't open as well as it did uncrushed.  It holds boost just fine
all the way up to 17+ psi, which is more than enough for the street.

As near as I could tell, it would be really tough to disassemble the valve
and reassemble it as the metal part of the valve is "crimped" onto the
plastic part.  I think uncrimping it would damage it enough so as to make it
unusable once reassembled.

At some point I'm going to reconnect the Blitz BOV and plug up the hoses
that went to the stock CBV, but I'm uncertain as to how I should go about
adjusting the spring on the Blitz valve (how do I know how much spring
pressure is right?).

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: "Goose Sound"
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I note the same observations with my 1995 BPV. The service spec calls
for it starting to open at 16". Mine starts to open at 15". Could this
be the sign of a weakening spring? Anyway, so far my 1st gen DSM valve
is still working great. Have about 300 mi. on it now.

Bruce

Matt Jannusch wrote:
>
> > Thanx for posting the results of your "test!"  This will save me the
> > trouble of performing similar experiments here.  I never thought about
> > valve flutter - that's a great theory!  I wonder if there is a way to
> > modify the BPV to eliminate this problem...
> >
> > Would someone with a stock BPV off the car please take a look and see if
> > anything looks adjustable or servicable?  Thanx!
>
> > Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
>
> I have a spare one that I got from Todd Shelton.  Unfortunately the valves
> for all years are not interchangeable as they changed where the outlet is
> for '94 and later to clear the tranny linkages, so I couldn't try it to see
> if the older version makes the noise on my car as well.  Looking at the
> valve, there isn't really anything adjustable.  There's a hole in the middle
> of the valve disc, but that is plugged by the actuator arm.  It might* be
> possible to crush it like the DSM guys do, but I'm not sure that's really
> what we're looking for.  More spring pressure might do it, which crushing
> the valve would do.  However, it might cause more compressor surge if the
> valve doesn't open as well as it did uncrushed.  It holds boost just fine
> all the way up to 17+ psi, which is more than enough for the street.
>
> As near as I could tell, it would be really tough to disassemble the valve
> and reassemble it as the metal part of the valve is "crimped" onto the
> plastic part.  I think uncrimping it would damage it enough so as to make it
> unusable once reassembled.
>
> At some point I'm going to reconnect the Blitz BOV and plug up the hoses
> that went to the stock CBV, but I'm uncertain as to how I should go about
> adjusting the spring on the Blitz valve (how do I know how much spring
> pressure is right?).
>
> -Matt
> '95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 11:10:48 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Anyone going to Nexus?  I need a drive shaft.
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 11:15:56 -0700 (PDT)
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Is anyone going to visit Nexus Motorsports (for service) anytime soon?
I've been trying to call and Email them for the past month because I want to
buy the used drive (Propeller) shaft that they have for sale (I know they
don't do mail orders anymore but this is an in-stock part so maybe they'll
make an exception).

If you are going there sometime soon, could you let me know.  I just want
to find out if they still have the drive shaft and if they want to sell it
to me or not.

Otherwise, anyone know where I can get a used drive shaft cheap (Its the 3
piece one) from a reputable shop? 

Thanks,
Sam.
--
Sam_Wong at hyperdream.com | http://www.hyperdream.com/~samw
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 14:12:22 1999
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Cc: "Brian GT-Pro" <thegtalley@email.msn.com>,
        "Eric Nist" <splitsec@email.msn.com>
Subject: Team3S: SplitSecond ARC-GP2 update (veeery long but interesting)
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Attention : A lot of questions, answers and comments... but good stuff (I
hope) :)

Thanks to George, we got the confirmation that the system works on our cars
as slight modifications to the ARC system have been made to get it running
on our cars. As you all know I'm at first skeptical if there are any
unanswered questions around, so I emailed Eric Nist at SplitSecond (thanks
Brian for the connection) with my questions. Here are the answers I got at
the beginning of this week and my comments so far (Q = my question, A =
Answer, C = my comment)

Q :
- SplitSecond says the following : "The alteration or addition of
turbochargers, superchargers, fuel injectors, fuel regulators, throttle
bodies, intake plenums, Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensors or Manifold Absolute
Pressure (MAP) sensors changes the air/fuel ratio." Can you please explain
me why adding a MAP sensor changes the A/F Ratio ?

A :
That statement refers to the conversion from a 1 bar MAP sensor to a 2 or 3
bar MAP sensor.  Systems that are originally MAP based can stay MAP based
and operate at higher boost levels with an appropriately sized MAP sensor.
The idea of using an ARC2 in this application is to properly fine tune an
engine where the MAP sensor and injectors have been changed.

C :
Ahh, therefore not adding but changing to a MAP with a wider range is
possible, makes sense. As we don't need this feature on our cars we can
leave it out.

-------------------------

Q :
- The ARM1 is a necessary tool but it is nothing different than any other
A/F meter !! It contains one small integrated circuit, 10 LEDs, up to three
resistors and one or two capacitors. Worth about $10.. but it works. But
what about an IDC ?? Besides an A/F meter I think EGT and IDC are the most
important values I need to know to tune the stuff properly. Ok, it's not
necessary to observe the IDC all the time but I'd like to know what the
current conditions are ! Why do the ARCs not have this feature ?

A1 :
The ARM1 is an air fuel ratio meter that is specifically designed to provide
useful information to the driver during driving conditions.  It has many
features that combine to achieve that goal.  It has a five color display
that may be viewed with peripheral vision.  It has night dimming so that the
display can be very bright during the day.  It has signal filtering to
optimize response.  It has a differential input circuit for high accuracy in
the presence of ground noise and DC offsets.  These are just the standard
things that we tell people.  There is even more to it than that.  Your
statement above indicates that you don't really understand what the ARM1 is.
It is unique in the industry.

C1 :
Well, the night dimming is definitely a good feature and also the
differential input to make sure that there is as less noise as possible is
also good (an additional OpAmp). But his answer is less than expected. I'd
love to see a picture with the ARM1 box open !!

A2 :
EGT and IDC are also important parameters to interpret and monitor when
tuning an engine.  The ARM1 provides useful information over the entire
operating range of the engine.

C2 :
The ARM1 is a $139 multimeter that reads the O2 sensors. You need an A/F
meter to tune the stuff in and if the ARM1 is within the kit we have to live
with it.

-------------------------

Q :
- It is not really clear what the GP style of the ARC is.

A :
The ARC2-GP is a version of the ARC2 that is specifically designed for the
3000GT.

C :
I guess this should mean that the hardware in the ARC has been adapted for
the bigger airflow on our cars.

-------------------------

Q :
- A a good system MUST check the boost pressure in the manifold and adjust
the signal
automatically that goes to the ECU. We know that the most of our cars do not
have a MAP sensor and therefore the ECU calculates the boost shown in the
stock meter. A sophisticated aftermarket fuel control or MAF conversion
system must take care of this to provide the full advantage but the ARC
cannot find out on what load the car is just by measuring the air flow.
This is the advantage of the VPC although it converts your car into speed
density.

A :
The VPC does not convert your car to a speed density system.  It uses MAP
and RPM to calculate flow information.  It is far better to stay flow based
which is the way the ECU was designed. In practice an ARC2 based system will
proved more accurate calibration over the entire engine load range.

C :
After thinking about the VPC stuff, I must say that Eric is absolutely right
! The VPC does not convert your car into speed density as it reads three
parameters : Boost, RPM and Intake air temp. More on that later.

-------------------------

Q :
Also the adjustments (VPC) are pretty close the same way as the ARC.

A :
The operation of the ARC2 is unique in the industry.  No other calibrator
works like it.  In other words, no other calibrator provides the range of
adjustment with such a small number of controls while providing smooth
response.

C :
This is not much more information.

-------------------------

Q :
- SplitSecond says : "This package will allow you to raise the boost,
install larger injectors, even change to larger turbos".

Ok, I think we can always change to larger turbos without the need for the
ARC ;-) Anyways,
the first point is not true if the fuel system has not been modified yet.

A :
Changing the size of the turbo effects spool response and back pressure
which effects the horsepower gain per pound of boost.

C :
I think that this means that after installing bigger turbos the ARC can be
tuned in again to the new variable (sure).

-------------------------

Q :
Or how does SplitSecond controls the engine detonation or how do you know if
the
injectors are at their limit ?

A :
The injectors have to be sized properly for the application.  Once the
turbo, injectors, flow sensor etc. have been properly specified, the ARC2
can be used to fine tune the calibration.

C :
Yes, this makes absolutely sense ! I didn't thought about the fact that we
also have to tell HKS what injectors we have so they provide the right EPROM
for the $$$ box. Taking the ARC kit means that you NEED at least bigger
injectors (I'd also upgrade the pump too). There is no need for bigger
turbos but if you change them later you can recalibrate the ARC for the
higher flow (of course).

-------------------------

Q :
- I'm missing any idle speed control for larger injectors (e.g. 720cc) ! It
does sense the TPS and therefore knows when the throttle is closed but what
is the behaviour during shifting ? Are the rpms included in the sensing
signals ?

A :
By staying flow based and using the ARC2 you can accurately tune at idle.
We do not use an RPM input on the ARC2.

C :
Makes sense again. Air flow is really low at idle and it seems that the flow
sensor is able to sneak this and the ARC can give the right frequency to the
ECU in this case. As George had slight problems with the idle (solved now
??) I guess some slight adjustments for the lower flow area is necessary. I
still wonder how the thing acts when shifting hard/soft and the behaivour
under cruise control conditions.

-------------------------

Q :
- How does the ARC box know when the car is under load and what boost the
car runs on ?

A :
Load and boost are directly related to flow.  That is why we stay flow
based.

C :
Yes, this is absolutely true. There is a formula that calculates the airflow
rate and includes the boost pressure rate as a multiplier. The aim of my
question was to find out why SplitSec doesn't use a MAP sensor and this is
the answer: Both values are in the formula and changing one affects the
other. More to this interesting topic later.

-------------------------

Q :
Also how is the load of the car known and is this
programmable in the ARC ? Is the ARC programmable anyways ?

A :
The ARC2 is universal.  It will operate with whatever maximum load the
engine is running.  The key is for the flow sensor and injectors to be sized
properly for the application.  All adjustment of the ARC2 is done through
the four front panel controls.

C :
Full load = full capable boost = air flow@rpm. This simple equation makes it
easy to tune the ARC in. Once done only response has to be adjusted to find
teh best gain.

-------------------------

Q :
My conclusion is that the larger MAF is a good thing. It will keep the car
mostly as it is and by adapting the signal to the ECU it works for a wide
range of cars, but the price is very high for a "frequency altering
device".
Even more, the thing seems not to be intelligent and doesn't help in any
situation (it is fully manual) nor does it know what to do in any boost
situation.

A :
The ARC2 generates a best fit curve to operate over the entire range of the
engine (every day driver or weekend warrior).  This provides maximum power
while preserving OEM quality and drivability.  The ARC2 works with the stock
ECU to provide fine tuning and driver adjustability.  It is your best choice
for retaining factory drivability when retaining the stock ECU.

C :
That means that any programming feature is just not necessary. The key word
is "every day driver". This is where I think the VPC is not at its best.

-------------------------

Q :
The VPC is also somewhat old fashioned and it's bad to have a new EPROM
burnt for other injectors. Well, I think I'd the injectors only once :).
Also it converts air-mass systems to speed-density systems that is not the
most wished thing. And together with a GCC price is way too high.

Comparing the ARC to an Apexi S-AFC doesn't make sense at all as the later
is a fine tuning tool and good for somewhat larger injectors like 550cc.

A :
The ARC2 is unique in many ways, one being that it does a mass air flow to
Karman Vortex conversion.  The signal conditioning circuitry is very high
performance and responds very rapidly.  This is key to maintaining OEM
quality of drivability.

-------------------------

Q :
my point of view, the three nobs saying Low,Mid and High do almost the same
(like the VPC knobs)
but with another philosophy and terminology. It does nothing else but
giving you an alternated fuel curve over the air-flow or rpm band.

A :
Needless to say the ARC2 does a lot more than that.  The low mid and high
knobs provide a convenient user interface, yet the functions they serve are
quite sophisticated.

C :
Yes, it does convert the signal into Karman Vortex style and what I've
asked. But what is a lot more ?

-------------------------

Q :
In my point of view, the ARC as well as the VPC are only half the way to the
right solution. The TRE MASC was pretty close but maybe too complicated and
finally too expensive for the market to make real money out of it. What we
need is : .....

A :
I am confident that the ARC2 is going to provide the adjustability and
performance you are looking for.  If you want a lot of data logging and
serial interface features, you may want to look at a stand alone aftermarket
ECU.

C :
Hmm, it seems to be wishful thinking that we'll get a system that provides
us with all the information on the parameters the thing is working on. As
said the TRE MASC was a good system and I wish the thing would have been
continued.

-------------------------

Q :
I was also told that the Stealth with the ARC2-GP runs with limited boost
of 1.15 bars. Why ? The musics starts to play above 1.2 bars for sure. Also
the 13Gs are able to go over 1.35bars !!

A :
There is no reason why the ARC2 can't work at higher boost levels.

-------------------------

Q :
Also the stock turbos (or the 13Gs) do not suck more cfm in than the stock
MAS already can deliver so what is the gain of the MAF ?

A :
The lower restriction of the MAF sensor makes the turbo more efficient and
enhances spool response.

C :
I would like to see this directly on the dyno with the stock (13G) turbos
and the stock fuel system and boost of 1 bar; just to see the difference.

-------------------------

Q :
I'd say with a simple fuel controller (e.g. the ARC without the MAF) you'd
have the same results with the 550cc injectors. Comments ?

A .
The MAF provides less pressure drop across the sensor leading to higher
efficiency and therefore more power.

-------------------------

Q :
Last thing : We'll get the real gain when we can increase boost. But we are
limited to the fuel system and how much fuel the cars need to prevent knock
(wasting energy !!).

A :
The fuel system must be matched to the requirements for the amount of boost
you are making.

-------------------------

Q :
So how do you tune in the stuff without a knock monitor
and without the ability to see the timing is getting retarded ?

A :
If your ECU is retarding the timing due to engine knock, the cheap fix is to
throw more fuel at it.  A proper fix would be to address the back pressure
of the engine's exhaust before and after the turbo.

C :
Of course, the ARM1 is used at first for tuning in the proper A/F ratio.
Then we have to be careful with increasing the boost. Unfortunately we do
not all have an AWD dyno a few minutes away :( But this problem do all
systems have and is not addressing the ARC.

-------------------------

Well, that's it (do you have already some headache ?)

I got some headache today thinking around this stuff as we all know that
bigger turbos flow more air at the same pressure. Therefore I expected that
the measured air flow with larger turbines increases while the boost stays
the same. I'd say yes. Therefore just adding a 15G over the 9B and running
still 15 psi will result in bigger power due to the more air that is
compressed. Unfortunately, there is a formula to calculate the airflow rate
:

(in^3 * rpm * 0.5 (const) * 0.9 (vol.efficiency) * Press.Ratio) / 1728
(const) = cfm

And there is nothing that points to a variable device like the flow or
efficiency of the turbos. The displacement is still the same as well as the
pressure and therefore the air flow stays the same with the bigger turbos.
But of course, the compressed air is denser and the bigger turbos are able
to provide the desired cfm when the rpm increases. Using this formula on our
car gives us the following :

Stock Wategates open :
(182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 332 cfm

Stock 0.5 bars:
(182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1.5 (0.5 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 498 cfm ->
249 cfm per turbo

Modified 1.3 bars :
(182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 2.3 (1.3 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 763 cfm ->
382 cfm per turbo

Modified  1.5 bars :
(182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 2.5 (1.5 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 829 cfm ->
415 cfm per turbo

Back to the SplitSecond ARC-2GP System, the formula tells us that with
increasing boost a much better air flow system as well as fuel upgrade is
needed. The injectors are easy to calculate :

Say our aim is 400hp => (400 x 0.55) * 10.5 / 6 = 385cc

Do you remember that we dynoed the cars around 400hp and that we found out
that the IDC is pretty close or even more than 90%. Now you know why ! This
only works as the fuel pressure is already pretty high and I doubt that
increasing the pressure would be healthy for the injectors.

Now our aim is 500hp => (500 x 0.55) * 10.5 / 6 = 481.25 cc

The next size are the 550cc and should be enough for this purpose. Of course
the flow needed is not calculating with cooling the chambers .. and this is
not possible to calculate as there are too much unknown paramters. I was
told that this can be up to 13% i.e. need of 543cc injectors. The best is to
watch the IDC to find out where you stay.

The ARC provides now a better air flow causing the turbos to spool-up more
free and is able to control the new bigger injectors without a problem.
Having more information now I think that this is pretty easy with the
SplitSecond stuff. Also due to the calculations shown above, we see that
there is definitively more air and better flow needed. A VPC and ARC both
provide us with with these enhancements while a VPC needs to be programmed
too. And if you see that there are even bigger injectors needed you have to
get another chip for it again. This is definitively the weak point and
here's where the ARC wins. I'm also positive that the low boost area and
idle behaviour is better than with the VPC. I can't say how much the
influence of intake temperature has as I don't know if the SS MAF measures
the temp as well. As we do have very different temps over the seasons I
definitvely need a system that is able to compensate on this.

That's it for now ... and stay tuned for more :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 14:45:23 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: "Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Clutch Recommendations
Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 16:45:15 -0500
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What are the favorite clutches for these cars?  I previously had a 2600lb
ACT clutch in my '93 Eclipse GSX which worked very well at holding power,
but the engagement was pretty rough (and my left leg is a lot stronger than
my right, now!).  I'm not looking to spend a ton of money, and I've seen the
ACT for the VR4 for right around $400.  How does the Turbo Claw or Turbo
Claw Carbon compare to the ACT.  I didn't care for the Centerforce in my
Eclipse and probably wouldn't consider another one of those (clutch dead in
12,000 miles).

Reply to me directly if this has been hashed out already.  I tried looking
through some of the Archives, but it is difficult to locate relevant
messages in there.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
(mattj@fallon.com)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 15:27:43 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: fuel system upgrades
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Dave is very right and I second his statement on our enemy.

To make thing a little bit clearer, with a 3S having a larger air filter and
boost crnked up in any way fuel cut appears around 1.25bars / 18 psi. I
never hit FC with 17 psi with a healthy engine. This became worser and
worser as the the damge was there and some oil has found its way into the
chamber. Oil in the A/F mixture causes  to reduce the octane rating that
finally results in earlier detonation !! And if the ECU is not able to
retard the timing anymore and knock still exists it initiate FC. I finally
got it at 1.07bars :((

Avoid detonation !

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

>the temperature of the intake charge. Set your boost to 17 and you'll get
>your fuelcut as they advertise, but I'd guess you'd also get severe
> Unfortunately, our weakest link is NOT fuelcut... it's detonation.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 16 22:07:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 01:05:52 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bushing?
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In a message dated 6/15/99 6:26:41 PM Central Daylight Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com writes:

<< Well, I ended up having to do that when I changed my springs. I had the
same
concern, but after spraying with every compound under the sun (and pounding
the heck out of the nut with a breaker bar and socket), we gave up and took
a torch to it. Amazingly enough, the rubber didn't melt, but it did break
loose. All I can say is, I sure was glad I had it on a rack. I can't imagine
doing that from on my back.

Looking forward...Chris >>

Hi Chris,
Thanks for your input, Chris; My buddy (he owns a muffler shop) & I
have attempted several times to free that rear strut up!  But it is Frozen
solid!  We were hesitant to torch it up due to the fact that we'll melt that
rubber bushing - but you're saying that you were able to torch it without
melting it?  Nobody has JUST the rubber bushing available?   Has anyone else
run into this problem?  Should I just go ahead and torch it?  If it melts the
bushing away; I will have to buy a whole new rear strut assembly!

Any input would be appreciated,

Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Eibach springs &
Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) custom racing wheels (Springs and wheels not
installed yet).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 03:03:22 1999
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After the instalation of my IMP intake, nothing fits right.  I need (chrome or
pollished) inercooler pipes and a Y  pipe.  Please e-mail me with prices.  THX!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 08:09:06 1999
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From: "Dy, Leonard" <DyL@CTT.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: tire replacement
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:08:25 -0500
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Hello guys

I recently purchased a '95 VR4.  Unfortunately the car is due for a new set
of tires.  What I noticed on the car is that the rears are really worn while
the front look fine.  I would believe this is due to a neglection by the
original owner in regards to tire rotation.  The car only has 38K miles so I
believe these are the original tires which are OE Yoko's.  My question, is
it possible to change only the rear?  My concern is that an "all wheel
drive" car is sensitive to wheel diameter differences, but how sensitive?
FYI the fronts have about half of the tread left while the rears are about
1/8 left on them.  I know it may be possible that the original owner may
have replaced the fronts only at some point which would account for the big
difference in wear.  Would replacing only the rears cuase any type of
drive-train problems?  Hate to waste two good tires.

Thanks
Len '95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 08:14:56 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'TurboDrvn@aol.com'" <TurboDrvn@aol.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bushing?
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:14:59 -0700
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Ahmed...

Perhaps I got lucky, but it didn't melt. Replacement bushing? How about a
wrecking yard? Also, there's a number of aftermarket bushing companies
around (should be some on the web). Quickor Engineering is the one I used to
replace all my rubber bushings with polyurethane (for a 1967 Mustang). My
guess is, unless we got lucky and found a size from another make/model that
fits, there isn't (and won't be) enough volume to get anyone to step up for
mass production. For the swap, you'd need ID, OD, Thickness and some measure
of density. Outside of that. you're stuck with a custom part. Spendy.

Good luck with a tough decision!!!

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: TurboDrvn@aol.com [mailto:TurboDrvn@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 16, 1999 10:06 PM
To: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bushing?


In a message dated 6/15/99 6:26:41 PM Central Daylight Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com writes:
<snip>
Hi Chris,
Thanks for your input, Chris; My buddy (he owns a muffler shop) & I
have attempted several times to free that rear strut up!  But it is Frozen
solid!  We were hesitant to torch it up due to the fact that we'll melt that

rubber bushing - but you're saying that you were able to torch it without
melting it?  Nobody has JUST the rubber bushing available?   Has anyone else

run into this problem?  Should I just go ahead and torch it?  If it melts
the
bushing away; I will have to buy a whole new rear strut assembly!

Any input would be appreciated, Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 08:24:05 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: knock sensor and A/F guage
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 10:22:52 -0500
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Hey everyone,

A buddy of mine is having a problem and he needs some help from the experts.
He is having some trouble subscibing to the list so I'll try to explain the
problem and hopefully some of you can e-mail him privatly with your advice.

Last night, John and I installed a boost gauge, A/F gauge and a cut little
LED for a knock indicator.  John used some instructions for the knock
indicator from a DSM website and the scematics for the 3/S.  After we
installed it, the A/F gauge(Autometer) was going all over the place.  An the
knock indicator was staying lite.  The DSM instructions said to reset the
ECU if the LED was staying lite.  So we unhooked the battery for 30 minutes.
After that, the indicator would go off when accelerating, but come back on
at idle.  I doubt his car is getting knock at idle.

Please e-mail John privatly if you can help him out.  He is a good mechanic,
just not very experienced with modifying a 3/S.  (like most of us)    His
e-mail is:  jbasol@carlson.com

Thanks a bunch,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 08:24:38 1999
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 11:24:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TurboDrvn@aol.com
cc: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bushing?
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> Hi Chris,
> Thanks for your input, Chris; My buddy (he owns a muffler shop) & I
> have attempted several times to free that rear strut up!  But it is Frozen
> solid!  We were hesitant to torch it up due to the fact that we'll melt that
> rubber bushing - but you're saying that you were able to torch it without
> melting it?  Nobody has JUST the rubber bushing available?   Has anyone else

Hello,

   Quick question:  If you were to install rear (and/or front) struts
without the rubber bushing, what kind of performance differences would one
expect to notice?

THank you for your time.

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 08:25:20 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Dy, Leonard'" <DyL@CTT.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: tire replacement
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 08:25:11 -0700
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Leonard...

Most likely the previous owner rotated the front to rear, as the fronts
should show more wear than the rear. My guess is, if you leave them the way
they are now, you should wear out all four at about the same time. On our
cars, I would NOT mix sizes or brands. The AWD, AWS steering systems would
likely be thrown out of whack (technical term  :-)) and you'll have more
problems that you need. Handling would also be adversely affected.

Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)

-----Original Message-----
From: Dy, Leonard [mailto:DyL@CTT.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 8:08 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: tire replacement


Hello guys

I recently purchased a '95 VR4.  Unfortunately the car is due for a new set
of tires.  What I noticed on the car is that the rears are really worn while
the front look fine.  I would believe this is due to a neglection by the
original owner in regards to tire rotation.  The car only has 38K miles so I
believe these are the original tires which are OE Yoko's.  My question, is
it possible to change only the rear?  My concern is that an "all wheel
drive" car is sensitive to wheel diameter differences, but how sensitive?
FYI the fronts have about half of the tread left while the rears are about
1/8 left on them.  I know it may be possible that the original owner may
have replaced the fronts only at some point which would account for the big
difference in wear.  Would replacing only the rears cuase any type of
drive-train problems?  Hate to waste two good tires.

Thanks
Len '95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 08:30:35 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>, <jbasol@carlson.com>
Cc: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: knock sensor and A/F guage
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 17:29:08 +0200
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The knock LED mod. does not work on the 3S !

>installed it, the A/F gauge(Autometer) was going all over the place.

Normal at idle. How about WOT ??

Regards,
Roger


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 09:49:46 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Dennis G. Bretton '" <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, TurboDrvn@aol.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Strut bushing?
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 09:49:28 -0700
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Dennis...

Well, first off, you'd have 3/4" of free play on both sides of the shaft.
This would rattle and clank every time you hit the slightest bump. Also, the
jarring, without the bushing, might actually fracture the mount. It could be
done, but certainly wouldn't be practical. Better yet, If a person knew how
dense the bushing material is, and had access to a machine shop and some raw
material (rubber or polyurethane), they could make one of their own.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis G. Bretton [mailto:dbretton@cs.uml.edu]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 8:25 AM
To: TurboDrvn@aol.com
Cc: cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Strut bushing?

<snip>
Hello,

   Quick question:  If you were to install rear (and/or front) struts
without the rubber bushing, what kind of performance differences would one
expect to notice?

THank you for your time.

Regards, Dennis
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 14:34:36 1999
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 15:41:25 -0500
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Wind noise
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I just went back and forth to Chicago on I80 & 88, running at 90-100 mph,
with short blasts up to 120 when conditions permitted (trucks for screens,
wide open highway, etc.)  I go to my office twice a year, whether I need to
or not.

It's nothing like running on the autobahn, of course, but I did manage to
cover 247 miles in 3 hr and 10 min, complete with toll booths,
construction, Chicago-area traffic, and one pee stop.

At 90 mph, the speedo is straight up, the tach reads 2800 rpm, and the car
is in the sweet spot between those nasty goose honking sounds at 85 and 95
mph.  Surely our cars were designed for 90 mph cruising. In Iowa (65 mph
speed limit), they take your license for 25 over, which is why I mostly
cruise at 90 and not 100. I figger if I stab the brakes when the detector
goes off, it will get me just below 90, avoid the nasty penalty, and just
get me a speeding ticket.

However, the wind noise at 90-110 mph is annoying. I hear wind hissing and
blowing around both windows and the roof glass. Any idea what to do about it?

BTW, only two cars kept up: a 535 BMW, who hung on doggedly, and a
nondescript late-1980s FWD General Motors pieceashit common as dirt
four-door mid-size sedan of some kind, with big tires (A Q-ship, if anyone
remembers what that was). He PASSED me whilst I was cruising at 90 (I
slowed to let him by -- I figgered that anyone who could catch up to me was
either the police, a drunk, or somebody cruising faster, and discretion is
the better part of valor). I fell in behind, used him as a rabbit and a
radar screen, and we ran along together for 25 miles at 110, with me
hanging on 1/4 mile back. I peeled off at the Cedar Rapids outerbelt, and
watched him continue into the city on I380 at a steady 110. Whew! Not for
me! I dearly wanted to see what he had in that little Q-ship, but I need my
license more.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4 commuter car
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 15:01:52 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Merritt'" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Cc: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Wind noise
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 15:02:04 -0700
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Rich...

You can't beat a VR4 for a commuter car   :-)    I don't have the sunroof,
but I've heard that the seal is a real problem at high speeds. I've heard
horror stories about the front edge lifting away from the gasket by a 1/2"
at speeds over 140 mph. As for the door windows, I've found the same design
flaw (who would imagine Mitsubishi worrying about the weight of a full door
panel when they're building a car that weighs in over 3700 pounds). Anyway,
if I close the door with the window up, it "sometimes" (50%?) doesn't
completely latch at the top roof panel. My solution has been to open the
window after the door is closed, then run it back up. This ensures that it
seats behind the clip (latch?) at the top. As I say, a poor design, my 1992
Talon turbo had a full door panel (surrounding the window).

If someone else knows of a permanent way to fix this, please post to the
list. Thanks.

BTW...our cars cruise perfectly at nearly any speed. I've done the run
between Redding (CA) and Sacramento (CA), which is 165 miles of flat open
highway on I-5, a number of times with the cruise control set on 125 mph.
Going down to meet Bob Forrest in January, I kept it at 145 mph for thirty
miles. With the Active Aero on, it feels like 80 mph in the average car (or
60 mph in my commuter car, a Suzuki Swift GTi).

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 1:41 PM
To: 3000gt_stealth@listbot.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Wind noise
<snip>

However, the wind noise at 90-110 mph is annoying. I hear wind hissing and
blowing around both windows and the roof glass. Any idea what to do about
it?
<snip>

Rich/old poop/94 VR4 commuter car
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 15:19:33 1999
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From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
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References: <3.0.3.32.19990617154125.00727f44@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Wind noise
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 16:20:00 -0600
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Rich;

When I first got my 92 TT, I also had a problem with wind noise, not to
mention the fact that I got drenched whenever I went through a car wash.  I
took it back to the dealer (whose comment was that I should be going that
fast...AH.) and they adjusted the door hinges to the point where the seal of
the window to the rubber was much better.  Wind noise was greatly dimished,
and I quit going to mechanical car washes!!  Don't know what you can do
about the roof glass, since I don't have one.


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth


<snip>

However, the wind noise at 90-110 mph is annoying. I hear wind hissing and
blowing around both windows and the roof glass. Any idea what to do about
it?

Rich/old poop/94 VR4 commuter car
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 15:38:51 1999
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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 15:38:07 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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I know what you mean about cruising at speed. A couple of years ago I
went to Montana and Idaho and the car felt like it was meant to cruise
at 110-120 all day, which it did! I had neither the wind nor sunroof
problem. FWIW I have the smaller solid electric roof.

There was a thread on 3Si.org a few months ago where people were
complaining about the wind leaks, even on new cars. Turns out that many
cars came that way from the factory and the window can be adjusted to
spec and it took care of the problem. Apparently the tolerances are
quite close. If anyone needs me to, I can scan the procedure from my
manual and email to you. My manual covers all models from 92-96. Just
tell me what format you want the image in. Just let me know.

Bruce

Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> Rich...
>
> You can't beat a VR4 for a commuter car   :-)    I don't have the sunroof,
> but I've heard that the seal is a real problem at high speeds. I've heard
> horror stories about the front edge lifting away from the gasket by a 1/2"
> at speeds over 140 mph. As for the door windows, I've found the same design
> flaw (who would imagine Mitsubishi worrying about the weight of a full door
> panel when they're building a car that weighs in over 3700 pounds). Anyway,
> if I close the door with the window up, it "sometimes" (50%?) doesn't
> completely latch at the top roof panel. My solution has been to open the
> window after the door is closed, then run it back up. This ensures that it
> seats behind the clip (latch?) at the top. As I say, a poor design, my 1992
> Talon turbo had a full door panel (surrounding the window).
>
> If someone else knows of a permanent way to fix this, please post to the
> list. Thanks.
>
> BTW...our cars cruise perfectly at nearly any speed. I've done the run
> between Redding (CA) and Sacramento (CA), which is 165 miles of flat open
> highway on I-5, a number of times with the cruise control set on 125 mph.
> Going down to meet Bob Forrest in January, I kept it at 145 mph for thirty
> miles. With the Active Aero on, it feels like 80 mph in the average car (or
> 60 mph in my commuter car, a Suzuki Swift GTi).
>
> Looking forward...Chris
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Merritt [mailto:merritt@cedar-rapids.net]
> Sent: Thursday, June 17, 1999 1:41 PM
> To: 3000gt_stealth@listbot.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Wind noise
> <snip>
>
> However, the wind noise at 90-110 mph is annoying. I hear wind hissing and
> blowing around both windows and the roof glass. Any idea what to do about
> it?
> <snip>
>
> Rich/old poop/94 VR4 commuter car
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 16:19:44 1999
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I am posting this on behalf of someone (with permission) at 3si.org
because I am looking to get an EGT too and am interested in the
response.

Bruce

"Hey Bob F or Roger G"

"I noticed in your website the green beast that you had a dual EGT
gauge, Im wondering what bank runs the leanest due to the fuel rail
setup and whats the normal EGT temp. just got my HKS EGT meter and need
to hear from someone with any experience in this area. here is a list of
some of the mods. 15gs,MSD ignition, HKS SSBOV, 550 inj,HKS fuel
pump,upgraded intercoolers,and more.thanks for the help."
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 16:25:18 1999
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From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
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Subject: Team3S: Beginner's question
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Wow, guys, I don't have the seeds yet for going over 100+.  Here in MN, it
seems the cops are a little anal.. I was pulled over by a bedwetter who
noticed I had no front plate.  Arggrgh.

Anyway, my car is in for service with a new clutch and the mechs there bent
my transmission linkage cabe, knocking out 1, 3, and 5.  (Oops!)

Could someone explain, if within the context of this group, how these two
cables make the magic happen?  That is, when I shift, what do these cables
do, and how does it affect the transmission?  (I imagine I'll hear about
synchros somehwere in there too, that's okay)

Thanks,

*Phil

Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Employer Services
612-894-3224 (w)
888-415-4894 (pager)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 18:41:06 1999
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I have scanned the window alignment procedure in jpg format and placed
in a zip file for those that are interested. It is too large to post
here. To Rich Merritt & Craig Hodges, I have already sent yours at your
request. Hope it helps.

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 23:04:04 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Re: strut bushing
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In a message dated 6/17/99 10:26:26 AM Central Daylight Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com writes:

<< Looking forward...Chris

1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4 (w/HKS Super Flo intake, TEC 15G turbos, bored
and polished throttle body, RC 560cc injectors, HKS fuel pump, GReddy PRofec
A boost controller, G-force ECU upgrade, HKS SBOV, custom intercoolers,
Predator dry cell battery, Magnecore 8.5mm wires, NGK double platinum plugs
gapped at .030", ATR downpipe and test pipe, GReddy catback exhaust, GReddy
turbo timer, Eibach 1" drop progressive springs)
  >>

Hey Chris,

Thanks again for your input re: the strut bushing.  I will keep
trying!  But there is NO aftermarket company that makes these bushings for
our cars!   I'll try your suggestion to take measurements and cross reference
with other car manufacturer's bushings. 
By the way, Great list of mods!  What kind of time do you get in the
1/4 mile?  also please include your 60 foot time! 

Later,

Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Eibach springs &
Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) custom racing wheels (Springs and wheels not
installed yet).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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Subject: Re: Team3S: Wind noise
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In a message dated 6/17/99 8:42:35 PM Central Daylight Time,
bbody@pacbell.net writes:

<< I have scanned the window alignment procedure in jpg format and placed
in a zip file for those that are interested. It is too large to post
here. To Rich Merritt & Craig Hodges, I have already sent yours at your
request. Hope it helps.

Bruce >>

Hi Bruce,

Please forward this to me as well.  Thank you!

Ahmed - '92 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 17 21:19:26 1999
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Message-ID: <004801beb941$3b39a940$198d0818@msnv1.occa.home.com>
From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>,
        "'Stealth - Team 3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <000101beb918$ad9ace70$fa64a8c0@sadieserver.mn.mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Beginner's question
Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:15:42 -0700
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> Anyway, my car is in for service with a new clutch and the mechs there bent
> my transmission linkage cabe, knocking out 1, 3, and 5.  (Oops!)
>
> Could someone explain, if within the context of this group, how these two
> cables make the magic happen?  That is, when I shift, what do these cables
> do, and how does it affect the transmission.
======================================================================

A complete dissertation on a manual gearbox is a little beyond the scope of this site. There are
two cables that go from the shifter and they perform two separate functions. One causes the
shift mechanism in the trans to move forward and back, the other causes the shift mechanism
to move up and down. These two motions select the gear you want. For example up and forward
would select 1st while up and back would select 2nd. For the five speed there are actually three
positions in the up/down motion, which allows six choices.

    Jim Berry


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 01:10:21 1999
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Bozz Speed Bonnet Scoops $300
Bozz Speed Rear Wing Extension $250
Bozz Speed Rear Wing Side Supports $400
Bozz Speed Y-Pipe with Additional Injector and stock BOV opening $300
Factory Strut Covers Painted Electric Blue off a 91 $50 for the pair
Pictures of extension pieces can be seen at the Bozz Speed Web site
www.bozz.co.jp


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 03:51:00 1999
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Umpf, I'm not of much help as I haven't installed an EGT in our cars yet (the parts just sit on the floor).

>"I noticed in your website the green beast that you had a dual EGT
>gauge, Im wondering what bank runs the leanest due to the fuel rail
>setup and whats the normal EGT temp.

I don't see why one bank should be leaner due to the fuel rails ! Flow and pressure should be the same and I doubt that this
plays a rule with 550 inj. But I know what you mean and this is one of my projects for the future :)

Normal EGTs for turbo engines will range from 1400 to 1650 °F (these are consistent temperature readings) but I'd say that
the measurings should be in the 780 - 860 °C area (1440 - 1580 °F).

What are the readings you all see with an EGT ? Let us know ...

What do you use for fuel control, let me guess ... VPC ?

For tuning in the stuff, it'd be a good idea to observe the intake temperatures as well. The 15G produce lower discharge
temperatures at the same boost compared to the 9B. Even the 13G showed lower readings ! Your upgraded intercoolers
should be able to decrease the temperture even more. But it is a good idea to determine the efficiency of the turbos and the
intercooler with the help of two temp meters with small probes. You can then crank up boost up to the point where the
produced temeprature by the turbo is way to much compared to the pressure gain. Here the efficiency of the turbos will then
be degraded !

The MSD ignition "may" help to increase spark energy and the benefit is that the plugs must not be gapped so low.

Let us know how it goes :)
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 04:26:19 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: OBD2 Help
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 07:19:01 -0400
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Which cars came with OBD2 and which years?  I have a 94 vr-4 and I am
looking into purchasing a Clarion AutoPC.  Veltronics has an attachment
which connects into cars with OBD2 and can diagnose the car and problems
while also taking voice commands to unlock and lock doors.  Any info would
be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Joshua

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 07:47:18 1999
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Header change? (admin question)
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Greetings,

I noticed that the "reply-to" line on the header is gone from all the
messages I'm receiving from the list.  Can that be put back in, please?
It makes it easier to send messages to the list, including answering
mother members' queries.

Thanks.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 07:51:41 1999
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:51:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Header change? (admin question)
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"mother members" should be "other members".  I'll learn to type one of
these days...

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

On Fri, 18 Jun 1999, Dennis Moore wrote:
> It makes it easier to send messages to the list, including answering
> mother members' queries.
k

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:06:15 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth@starnet.net'" <stealth@starnet.net>,
        "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: The life of a Minnesota 3/Ser
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:04:30 -0500
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Hey everyone,

I'm just writing to express my opinions on my club, "Minnesota 3/S".  In a
nutshell, I love it.  For those of you that don't know what I'm talking
about, I'll explain. 

I've been on the Starnet list for about a year now.  I was always so jealous
of the awesome 3/S gatherings they had on the East Coast and the blur of DSM
clubs through out the country.  Last October, myself and three other 3/S
owners met at a restaurant in the Twin Cities and just chatted about cars
for three hours.  Then in January, a few of us met at the Mall of America,
to ride a NASCAR simulator.  Then in the end of January, I decide to start a
3000GT/Stealth club in Minnesota called "Minnesota 3/S"  I started to work
on a webpage after work for a few days and before I knew it, it was up and
running.  We had about six members at that time, but we finally had a place
to call home.

Now, six months later, we have 20 members, and still growing.  We have had a
total of eight offical events, and many more scheduled for the future.  I've
also established some good discounts on parts and labor at a local
dealership.  And the website is so big, I had to subscribe to another
GeoCities account because I was almost past the 11 meg limit.

One of the best things about being in a car club, is the exchange of
knowledge.  A year ago, I didn't even know how to change spark plugs on my
Stealth.  Now, I've done that, install my own boost gauge and boost
controller and I do all my own oil changes. (with Mobil 1 of course)

Soon, me and several other "Minnesota 3/Sers" will be adding water injection
systems into our Twin Turbo beasts.  We have one member that has it already,
and it has shown to be quit the horsepower improvement.  The sky is the
limit, when it comes to these cars.

Lastly, I'd like to thank all of those "Minnesota 3/Sers" hanging out in
Starnet land and Team3S country.  And also to all the other valuable list
members that have helped me over the last year.  Its been a great ride, I
hope it never ends.

Later,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:13:20 1999
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Reply-To: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bob Fontanna's site
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 09:09:42 -0600
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I tried to get into Bob Fontanna's site
http://www.gate.net/~mits/racerpt.html ) and got an Error 404 - File Not
Found.  Bob...Are you out there?  Where did your site go...I need the page
on VPC tuning.  Does anybody have a copy of the pages?

Thanks


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:21:02 1999
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 16:38:09 +0200
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Chris Winkley wrote:
>
> Going down to meet Bob Forrest in January, I kept it at 145 mph for thirty
> miles. With the Active Aero on, it feels like 80 mph in the average car (or
> 60 mph in my commuter car, a Suzuki Swift GTi).

Now that's Autobahn territory!  Of course it's more relaxing here since
it's legal, but I'm glad you found an opportunty to really enjoy your 6
speed.  BTW, you didn't mention your gas mileage on that trip...  :-)

Regarding wind noise, it's definitely worse for those with sunroofs.  My
'94 TT has no sunroof, and wind noise increases linearly with speed as I
would expect.  It's pretty loud at 140+, but at these speeds I'm usually
too busy driving to notice!  :-)

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:21:05 1999
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:17:33 +0200
From: Matthews <matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
CC: bbody@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGT Question
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"R.G." wrote:
>
> Normal EGTs for turbo engines will range from 1400 to 1650 °F (these are consistent temperature readings) but I'd say that
> the measurings should be in the 780 - 860 °C area (1440 - 1580 °F).

I'm note sure if Mike Chapleski is in town at the moment, but during the
dyno run, he was seeing 975 degrees on the way down (.04x plug gap) and
925 degrees on the way back (.034 plug gap).  Note that I don't believe
his gauge can differentiate between banks.

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:21:57 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: The life of a Minnesota 3/Ser
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 08:18:14 -0700
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> Soon, me and several other "Minnesota 3/Sers" will be adding water injection
> systems into our Twin Turbo beasts.  We have one member that has it already,
> and it has shown to be quit the horsepower improvement.
==========================================================================

If you have any information on the water injection systems used please share it with
the team. If you follow the list you know some bandwidth was devoted to water injection.
Some of the commercial systems look good but can get pricey plus there are problems
to overcome --- pooling - where to inject - filtering etc. etc. Any experience you guys
can share would be appreciated.

Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                           [soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
                                 GC/Eibach  550# F/330# R
                    Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:23:28 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Insight from the new guy
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 10:23:21 -0500
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Hello Everybody!

First off I would like to introduce myself.  My name is John Basol.
I am from Minneapolis, MN and drive a '95 RT/TT.  I have just recently
started playing around with the Stealth, as I have a different project car
that keeps me busy in the garage most of time.  I bought the Stealth in
February of this year, found the 3SI (and consequently the MN chapter of
3SI) web sites, and have gotten to hear about the trouble and tribulations
that some people have experienced with the cars.  By the time I got around
to modifying mine I knew a couple of important things about what was
happening with them.
1) Without changing the fuel system, people were blowing
pistons & rings when pushing above 15-16psi on pump gas.

and

2) With a modified fuel system, people were blowing pistons &
rings when pushing above 17-18psi on pump gas.

The examples I give above are obviously for extended periods of
time.  Anyway...As I started looking at Roger's home page (great info up
there Roger!), as well as the archives of this list, (yep, I went through
all 204 archives.) I have come to a few thoughts about what is happening
with our cars, as well as some questions, that if we can solve, will open
new performance doors for us.
One of the first things I noticed is that Roger's dyno runs showed
that the car runs rich even at 14-15psi, on the stock fuel system).  I knew
from my readings on the DSM cars (my daily driver), that those cars simply
start "dumping" fuel when you floor the throttle.  My guess (as well as some
others) is that our cars are doing the same thing.  So why is Mits doing
this?  Did they feel that there was no point to metering the fuel after a
certain point?  I don't think that's why they did it.  I think they are
doing it because they are using the fuel to cool the combustion temps, I'm
sure quite a few will agree with me.  This is not to say that the stock fuel
system is good to "a bazillion" psi.  But I believe it probably takes more
than most think for it to start running lean.  Our biggest problem (I
believe) is getting the temps under control.
So now for the part a few of you have already asked me about. :)
How did I go about trying to control the combustion temps?  Water Injection.
I don't believe I need to go into a lot of theory involved here, most of you
guys have already done that.  The theory has been around, it's been debated.
A few are strong followers, a few believe it is not what it seems, and most
don't know what they think about it.  The one thing I did notice, was that
those who advised against it (this is not inside this group, but rather at
parts store sales guys, etc...), felt very strong, that it was the wrong
way.  Hmmm... Know what else I noticed?  Those that were so strongly against
it...had NEVER TRIED IT!!!!  To me that kind of discredited a lot of their
theory.  The physics of water injection is sound, meaning: it looks great on
paper.  So know I believed it was down to the application of it (where to
inject, what kind of mixture...).  So I tried it.
I bought a Spearco model 980 Water Injection System, and set it up.
The reservoir is mounted in the front air dam and is filled with a 50/50 mix
of water and methyl alcohol, the pressure feed is tapped half way up the
Y-pipe, and the injection nozzle is tapped in right after the elbow, as the
air gets to the throttle body.  My initial impression was WOW!.  I still had
my Blitz set at 14psi, and boy did the car pull nice.  I noticed
particularly that the power did not fall off at the higher RPMs.  I took the
car over to Curt Gendron's and he went for a little ride.  He too noticed
the absence of the high RPM power loss.  We decided to see what kind of
response it had to higher boost levels.  First 16psi,...nice.  Then
17psi....even nicer.  Then 18psi.....WOW does this thing haul!  It was
final...I needed to get some sort of knock indicator to confirm our "Butt
Dyno" and find the safety zone.
I ordered a Autometer A/F gauge, and learned a little about how the
O2 sensor acts at idle and no-load cruising :), as it is pretty much
worthless unless you are on the gas.  When you have the engine under a good
load, it works fine, but at idle, or at a cruising load, it bounces back and
forth between a little rich and a little lean.  I also solicited the help of
a electronics guru friend of mine to design a knock sensor monitor.  I
explained to him what exactly knock was, and showed him oscilloscope
patterns of what knock looked like.  He then helped me design a monitor to
tap the knock sensor line and monitor it for knock.  After I got home, one
of our club members led me to a link about the boost solenoid monitor used
by the 1st gen DSM cars.  I decided that it was simpler to do, so I tried
it.  It didn't work.  Back to my original plan...I had to find a way to
connect this thing to the knock sensor line without attenuating the signal,
so we spliced in a little capacitor on the end of the signal lead and began
installing it into the car.  After the installation I had to play with the
sensitivity a bit to make it as sensitive as I could get it without tripping
on simple engine noise, but now it is up and running.
So what are my findings?  Well, a little playing around last night
found the car still runs a little rich at 18psi, and I had no indication of
knock.
So what next?  I have no plans of taking the car to any higher
performance level (I know we all say that at some point), but I believe our
biggest enemy is heat.  An EGT gauge would be a nice addition [Curt, I think
you should help me find a place for it!:) ].  I don't think our heat
problems are coming from a lean mixture, but rather hot intake charge and a
god-awful cramped engine bay.  Perhaps the turbo's in these cars can't vent
well enough.  Now, don't take that to mean A/F is not a concern to us, I
simply think it is not our biggest.  Looking at my A/F gauge (FWIW), it
looks like I could probably get to 19, maybe even 20psi before starting to
run lean.
One of our club members had an Eclipse he ran 19psi on pump gas and
stock injectors!!!  A little digging this morning led me to even more people
doing that!  How are those DSMs doing it?  Last night I learned that Brent
Rau, in Apple Valley, MN is running 30psi on his 2nd Gen DSM.  I'm sure he
is using a beefy fuel system, and I know he has one hell of an intercooler,
but damn that's a lot of pressure.  I think we should work on getting rid of
heat any and all ways we can.
All in all, I believe we drive some of the best built cars in the
world, and although the car made me VERY mad as I tried to find a place to
mount the water tank, I am very glad I had the sense (and the cents!) to buy
on of these engineering marvels.

-John Basol
www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/1027
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:38:37 1999
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Dennis Moore wrote:
>
> Greetings,
>
> I noticed that the "reply-to" line on the header is gone from all the
> messages I'm receiving from the list.  Can that be put back in, please?
> It makes it easier to send messages to the list, including answering
> other members' queries.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Dennis Moore
> stealth@kiva.net

As was announced in a post a few weeks ago, the list server software was
reconfigured to change the way replying to posts works.  For months the
list has suffered from frequent posts that were intended to be personal
replies but which were erroneously (and at times embarrassingly) being
sent to the list as a new post.  Many of the popular Email tools make it
difficult to change the address to that of just the sender.  The way it
is set up now, you can hit Reply to reply to the sender only, or hit
Reply to All to post to the list.  This also makes posting to the list a
more conscious decision and seems to have eliminated some of the more
"fluff"-oriented posts.  We appreciate your understanding and hope you
find it easy to adjust to the change.  Thanx!

-Jim (admin, euro division!)
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Deutschland
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:41:23 1999
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 11:41:09 EDT
Subject: Re: Team3S: Insight from the new guy
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In a message dated 6/18/99 10:24:48 AM Central Daylight Time,
jbasol@Carlson.com writes:

<< First off I would like to introduce myself.  My name is John Basol.
I am from Minneapolis, MN and drive a '95 RT/TT.  I have just recently
started playing around with the Stealth, as I have a different project car
that keeps me busy in the garage most of time.  I bought the Stealth in
February of this year, found the 3SI (and consequently the MN chapter of
3SI) web sites, and have gotten to hear about the trouble and tribulations
that some people have experienced with the cars.  By the time I got around
to modifying mine I knew a couple of important things about what was
happening with them. >>

Hi John Basol,

Now THAT was an awesome post!   Long yet kept my attention!  First of
all, WELCOME aboard!  sounds like you've achieved quite a bit!  Hope to one
day meet you!  Are you guys going to join us for the MIDWEST Gathering in
Cleveland, OHIO?  The dates are set for July 23-25th.  Hope you can make it!

Ahmed  "AL-Crazy" - '92 VR4
GReddy Profec B boost controller, GReddy turbo timer, Apex'i sequential
b.o.v., SPI motorsport boost gauge & pillar pod, K&N filtercharger, Alamo
Downpipe, Hi-flow cat, Borla exhaust, KVR Cross drilled rotors with carbon
fiber pads, Nitto Power Extreme NT-555 (255/40/17's) tires, Eibach springs &
Enkei RP-O1 17x9 (42mm offset) custom racing wheels (Springs and wheels not
installed yet)
& 1987 Buick Grand National (way too many mods to list)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:48:44 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <fastmax@home.com>, <curt.gendron@westgroup.com>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Barry et gang,

The Aquamist System2s will arrive next week at my home and I already clarified all of Barrys questions (and much more) with the manufacturer. As
this is ERL in the UK, communicating with them is much easier (and cheaper over the phone)

Of course I'll report this modification very detailed as this topic is not well understood. Of course, dyno data will be delivered too :)

So please be patient and stay tuned :)

Regards,
Roger

>> Soon, me and several other "Minnesota 3/Sers" will be adding water injection
>==========================================================================
>
>If you have any information on the water injection systems used please share it with
>the team. If you follow the list you know some bandwidth was devoted to water injection.
>Some of the commercial systems look good but can get pricey plus there are problems
>to overcome -

-- pooling - Pressure up to 10 bars and a the way to the TB provides the best pooling

-- where to inject - right after the intercoolers or somwhat before the y-pipe

-- filtering - stainless steel inline microfilter

-- etc. etc. - what ever you want to know :))

__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 08:56:12 1999
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> One of our club members had an Eclipse he ran 19psi on pump gas and
> stock injectors!!!  A little digging this morning led me to even
> more people
> doing that!  How are those DSMs doing it?  Last night I learned that Brent
> Rau, in Apple Valley, MN is running 30psi on his 2nd Gen DSM.  I'm sure he
> is using a beefy fuel system, and I know he has one hell of an
> intercooler,
> but damn that's a lot of pressure.  I think we should work on
> getting rid of heat any and all ways we can.

I'm the one running the 19psi Eclipse...  92-93 octane fuel was required,
but the motor survived that much boost for well over a year in a very
hard-driven daily driver.  For some reason the DSM motors are more
detonation resistant, but I don't understand the concepts of head design
enough to say why that is (and have never seen inside the head on a 3/S
car).  Brent's car runs that high boost only on leaded race fuel.  The
general consensus with the DSM guys is that 18-19 psi is on the fringe for
those cars on 92-93 octane fuel, and you need to have clean injectors and an
upgraded fuel pump to do it (and preferably a high flowing exhaust).  I used
a Walbro pump with good results, and that same pump would probably have
enough flow for a 3/S car (with the benefit of only being $100 versus the
exorbitant $450 most vendors want for the usual 3/S upgrade pump).

One thing I noticed recently while at the dragstrip is that the 3/S cars
don't seem to have a lot of extra fuel pressure available at the fuel rail.
I took the fuel tank return line off the rail, and ran a hose into a gas can
to catch the fuel coming out, and the stream of fuel was almost just
dribbling out of the line, where on my Eclipse I had to hold the hose
because the fuel is coming out so forcefully at idle.

Perhaps the reason these cars are at 100% IDC so early is because Mitsu
knows the fuel pump is lacking, so they just open the floodgates as much as
they can, hoping the mixture will stay rich.  A better solution might be to
upgrade the fuel pump and reprogram the ECU to not just dump as much fuel as
possible.  Is this what JET does with their ECU upgrades?

Is there an equation of how to figure out airflow at certain RPM's versus
what the fuel flow requirement is to figure out whether bigger injectors are
really needed at a certain boost pressure and RPM?

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 09:33:43 1999
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Hey John,

Great you made it to the list, you are very welcome :))

And congrats for getting the WI system running properly. The Spearco is usually too small for engines with more than 2 litres and I'm happy to see
that it works anyways.

> 2) With a modified fuel system, people were blowing pistons &
>rings when pushing above 17-18psi on pump gas.

Well, depending on how much fuel they dumped in. But it's definitievely true !

> One of the first things I noticed is that Roger's dyno runs showed
>that the car runs rich even at 14-15psi, on the stock fuel system).

Yes, and with the AFC we were able to increase it even more

>sure quite a few will agree with me.  This is not to say that the stock fuel
>system is good to "a bazillion" psi.  But I believe it probably takes more
>than most think for it to start running lean.

Well the calculation for the injectors size is simple and the outcome is that the stock 360 are at their end. But why is it possible to run still rich at 15
psi ? This is possible because the stock fuel pressure is already high and enough to provide the "needed" fuel to prevent our enemy. IDC in Jims car
showed at least 90% during the run and the EGT in Mikes car showed figures as high as 900°C. For sure the fuel dumped in was to cool the stuff.

But increasing the fuel pressure (as it is increased when boost rises) will finally result in a nother problem. The spray pattern and the injector itself
may be damaged and it is very possible that they cannot be closed anymore due to this. Even more, the ECU thinks that there is something wrong
atih IDC close to 100% and initiates fuel cut.

>How did I go about trying to control the combustion temps?  Water Injection.

Ahhh, I love to hear this :))

> Hmmm... Know what else I noticed?  Those that were so strongly against
>it...had NEVER TRIED IT!!!!

Very true ! But Ford built the stuff into almost 4000 production cars ... I think they tried it first.

> I bought a Spearco model 980 Water Injection System, and set it up.

Can you please provide us with the technical details (flow, jets, pump, etc.) ?

>The reservoir is mounted in the front air dam and is filled with a 50/50 mix
>of water and methyl alcohol

Hehe, do you know that the european cars already have a reservoir in the bumper ? It is for the headlight sprays taht are used three times a year.
Thanks, Mitsu... no need to search another place :))

> the pressure feed is tapped half way up the
>Y-pipe, and the injection nozzle is tapped in right after the elbow, as the
>air gets to the throttle body.

Ok, maybe we have to give the crowed more insight in the way the different systems work. If you can provide me with the Spearco details I'm gonna
set up a homepage on this topic so the many, many descriptions can be viewed.

> My initial impression was WOW!.  I still had my Blitz set at 14psi, and boy did the car pull nice.  I noticed
>particularly that the power did not fall off at the higher RPMs.

Yes, with the air-injection the air got denser, heat was absorbed and more power produced.

>response it had to higher boost levels.  First 16psi,...nice.  Then
>17psi....even nicer.  Then 18psi.....WOW does this thing haul!  It was
>final...I needed to get some sort of knock indicator to confirm our "Butt
>Dyno" and find the safety zone.

What about your heartbeat ? Any chance to hook up a fuel pressure sensor, IDC, intake temperature, etc. ?

> After the installation I had to play with the
>sensitivity a bit to make it as sensitive as I could get it without tripping
>on simple engine noise, but now it is up and running.

Very good, as we discussed offline this could be of benefit for all of us.

> So what are my findings?  Well, a little playing around last night
>found the car still runs a little rich at 18psi, and I had no indication of
>knock.

18 psi ... 1.24 bars ... this is close where fuel cut normally is initiated. Have you looked at the dyno sheet on my problems page ? 18 psi give 467hp
DIN and although the dyno was too optimistic I'm pretty sure that this are healthy 450hp !

> So what next?  I have no plans of taking the car to any higher
>performance level (I know we all say that at some point), but I believe our
>biggest enemy is heat.  An EGT gauge would be a nice addition [Curt, I think
>you should help me find a place for it!:) ].

Not a big problem as you can install it in the front exhaust manifold right before the turbo flange. This is where Mike (Germany) installed his.

> I don't think our heat problems are coming from a lean mixture, but rather hot intake charge and a
>god-awful cramped engine bay.  Perhaps the turbo's in these cars can't vent well enough.

Yes, indeed the intake temp is a problem. But please note that the turbos are not efficient anymore in this high boost area. The blown air is getting
much more higher compared to the pressure and also they cannot shed the air that is really needed to produce some more horses. 15G would be
really great then. Also the intercoolers are not very efficient and I'll measure all the temperatures on my next dyno session for sure (and also on the
street for real figures) !

>looks like I could probably get to 19, maybe even 20psi before starting to
>run lean.

Yes, but how long will the injectors last ??

>Rau, in Apple Valley, MN is running 30psi on his 2nd Gen DSM.  I'm sure he
>is using a beefy fuel system, and I know he has one hell of an intercooler,
>but damn that's a lot of pressure.  I think we should work on getting rid of
>heat any and all ways we can.

30 PSI ? No i doubt this, as the rings cannot withstand this extreme pressure. Of course forged pistons and the best rings of the best are neccessary
to do this.

John, I think the WI system from Spaerco is pretty cheap and it seems to be a good solution. And if the knock monitor doesn't show anything, A/F is
still in the rich region and finally the EGTs are around 880°C the car is very healthy !! Great !

But as said, I think the injectors are at their end and only time can tell this. As you don't run on the track all day long and only boost up to 20 psi
every second day the Densos may be still alive after a year or more. To go the safe way, I think bigger injectors are a must.

Thanks for the report,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 10:08:05 1999
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I've been getting a lot of requests for the window alignment scans.
Please request it from me by private email so we don't clutter up the
list. I've sent out the file to everyone that's requested it up to this
point.

Thanks,

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 10:53:33 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Insight from the new guy
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 12:53:25 -0500
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> Hehe, do you know that the european cars already have a reservoir
> in the bumper ? It is for the headlight sprays taht are used
> three times a year.
> Thanks, Mitsu... no need to search another place :))

If the Mitsu tank will hold pressure equal to the amount of boost you plan
to run, then this is a sweet solution to where to put the tank!  The Spearco
tank gets pressurized to make it easier for the pump to force the water
through the nozzle.  I wonder how much the tank would cost to purchase and
get it to the US?

> Not a big problem as you can install it in the front exhaust
> manifold right before the turbo flange. This is where Mike
> (Germany) installed his.

Has anyone had a problem with the EGT probe tip coming off and going through
the turbo?  A few DSM guys had this problem.  Any issues with putting the
probe in the downpipe, other than the EGT's being a little lower due to the
lost energy/heat being used by the turbo?

> 30 PSI ? No i doubt this, as the rings cannot withstand this
> extreme pressure. Of course forged pistons and the best rings of
> the best are neccessary to do this.

Brent's Eclipse is very* far from stock, and I think he's using TotalSeal
rings with some sort of forged pistons.  His car is a very extreme example,
not really directly related to this particular discussion.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
EVC IV, Borla exhaust, Alamo Downpipe, Blitz BOV, K&N

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 12:09:44 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Insight from the new guy
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>If the Mitsu tank will hold pressure equal to the amount of boost you plan
>to run, then this is a sweet solution to where to put the tank!  The
Spearco
>tank gets pressurized to make it easier for the pump to force the water
>through the nozzle.  I wonder how much the tank would cost to purchase and
>get it to the US?


Here are the main differences between those systems. The ERL does not use
any pressurised tank as a strong pump pushes the water through one or more
jets. The high pressure is needed to fully vaporize the water as 1-2 bars is
somewhat low.

>Has anyone had a problem with the EGT probe tip coming off and going
through
>the turbo?  A few DSM guys had this problem.  Any issues with putting the
>probe in the downpipe, other than the EGT's being a little lower due to the
>lost energy/heat being used by the turbo?

There is more pressure infornt the turbo (of course) and the appropriate
position for an EGT probe is at the flame front. Just make sure that you
have a good EGT probe.

>> 30 PSI ?
>Brent's Eclipse is very* far from stock, and I think he's using TotalSeal
>rings with some sort of forged pistons.  His car is a very extreme example,
>not really directly related to this particular discussion.

Yes, the TotalSeals is the key together with the pistons ! Damn, how fast
would the 3S tranny go south with 30 psi :))

Later,
Roger


93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 12:09:45 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Pump, detonation, etc
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>I'm the one running the 19psi Eclipse...  92-93 octane fuel was required,
>but the motor survived that much boost for well over a year in a very
>hard-driven daily driver.  For some reason the DSM motors are more
>detonation resistant

Well, obviously this doesn't belong to the 3S :( Running still on the rich
side, 93 octane fuel, 15 psi of boost and knock starts to retard the timing.

>a Walbro pump with good results, and that same pump would probably have
>enough flow for a 3/S car (with the benefit of only being $100 versus the
>exorbitant $450 most vendors want for the usual 3/S upgrade pump).


I agree 100% and do highly recommend it !

>One thing I noticed recently while at the dragstrip is that the 3/S cars
>don't seem to have a lot of extra fuel pressure available at the fuel rail.


Fuel pressure is 43.5 psi (47.6 psi on NA), 34 psi at idle (with hose on)
but it fluctates pretty fast compared to other cars (GMs)

>Perhaps the reason these cars are at 100% IDC so early is because Mitsu
>knows the fuel pump is lacking, so they just open the floodgates as much as
>they can, hoping the mixture will stay rich.  A better solution might be to
>upgrade the fuel pump and reprogram the ECU to not just dump as much fuel
as
>possible.

This is an interesting theory !!

>  Is this what JET does with their ECU upgrades?

Jet is known just putting a sticker onto the microcontroller. If anyone is
putting a daughterboard in it the fuel and ignition map will be altered

>Is there an equation of how to figure out airflow at certain RPM's versus


This equation is in my earlier post this week, but ...

>what the fuel flow requirement is to figure out whether bigger injectors
are
>really needed at a certain boost pressure and RPM?

... I haven't found more than the easy calculation between power and the
injectors size. I will do more research on this.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 13:32:33 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spearco
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:32:17 -0500
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I gave Spearco a call, so I will try to answer a couple of questions I have
been asked about the kit.

First off the guy didn't have any flow data for me off the top of his head,
and he didn't seem like he wanted to look it up for me either.  Though I'm
sure that I can get this data myself, if I take the time to test each one of
the nozzles.  Keep in mind the Spearco is a pressure dependant system, so
flow varries not only with injector size, but pressure as well.

With reguards to the size of our motors, he did say they sold a large number
to a few Supra clubs, which I believe the Supra is a 3 liter as well.  He
also said they have been used a lot by the 3.8L Buick Grand National, as
well as 5.0L Mustangs.  Now, actually I have to side with Roger on this
thought though.  For my application the Spearco seemed like it would be OK,
and I didn't want to be using a $600 system for experimenting.  But, for
those that want to be real serious abuot extracting power, the Aquamist
system from ERL looks top notch.  The stage 2 from ERL is a mappable system,
and is VERY nice.  For those looking for upper 400hp numbers I would have to
suggest using one of the Auqamist systems.

I also asked Spearco about a group purchase price.  He was not specific
about the amount of the discount, but said that if got at least 10 people to
order that he would give us a break on them.

-John Basol

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 13:44:54 1999
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There are a few Grand National, Typhoons and Cyclones at the track I run
at. Next week when I'm there I'll poke around and see what info I can
find out for us on what they're using. They're running 24-28 lbs. and
they're pulling low 11s to sub 10s in street clothes.

Bruce

"Basol, John" wrote:
>
> I gave Spearco a call, so I will try to answer a couple of questions I have
> been asked about the kit.
>
> First off the guy didn't have any flow data for me off the top of his head,
> and he didn't seem like he wanted to look it up for me either.  Though I'm
> sure that I can get this data myself, if I take the time to test each one of
> the nozzles.  Keep in mind the Spearco is a pressure dependant system, so
> flow varries not only with injector size, but pressure as well.
>
> With reguards to the size of our motors, he did say they sold a large number
> to a few Supra clubs, which I believe the Supra is a 3 liter as well.  He
> also said they have been used a lot by the 3.8L Buick Grand National, as
> well as 5.0L Mustangs.  Now, actually I have to side with Roger on this
> thought though.  For my application the Spearco seemed like it would be OK,
> and I didn't want to be using a $600 system for experimenting.  But, for
> those that want to be real serious abuot extracting power, the Aquamist
> system from ERL looks top notch.  The stage 2 from ERL is a mappable system,
> and is VERY nice.  For those looking for upper 400hp numbers I would have to
> suggest using one of the Auqamist systems.
>
> I also asked Spearco about a group purchase price.  He was not specific
> about the amount of the discount, but said that if got at least 10 people to
> order that he would give us a break on them.
>
> -John Basol
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 13:49:48 1999
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Content-Identifier: VR4 vs RX7 Turbo?
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 15:49 -0500
From: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 vs RX7 Turbo?
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Sorry if this seems juvenile or has been covered before, but I'm just an old
dog looking for some new tricks. Tell me to shut-up and and I will, but there's
a guy at work that has a very sharp looking Mazda RX7 Turbo, and he kinda wants
to give me a run for the fun, but is a little intimidated with my VR4.

His car is a late model 3rd generation rotary with the twin turbos. It has
Greddy exhaust and intake. No other engine mods that he's admitted to, just a
turbo timer. It also has a nice looking ground effects package with air vents
just in front of the rear flared fenders, and a high wing on the back. I
haven't seen one quite like this before. Mine is a 1st generation VR4 with HKS
Intake & Exhaust with no cats, EVCIV Boost Controller, and SBOV. 

In a couple of 0-100 runs, will one of us be embarrassed, or will it be at all
close? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the RX7 Turbos were extremely
quick to 60 mph. What do you think?

Jeff.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 14:20:32 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>,
        "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Spearco (incl. Links)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 23:19:03 +0200
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>First off the guy didn't have any flow data for me off the top of his head,
>and he didn't seem like he wanted to look it up for me either.  Though I'm
>sure that I can get this data myself, if I take the time to test each one
of
>the nozzles.

Isn't there anything written in the installation manual or so ?My concern is
that the lower the pressure the water is beeing injected the less is the
vaporization. And if the water drops are getting too big, severe damage or
at least extended wear to the valves and ports can be the result

> Keep in mind the Spearco is a pressure dependant system, so
>flow varries not only with injector size, but pressure as well.


My concern is that the lower the pressure the water is beeing injected the
less is the vaporization. And if the water drops are getting too big, severe
damage or at least extended wear to the valves and ports can be the result.
Maybe this is the cause why the nozzle is installed just right before the TB
and not after the intercooler like with the ERL system.

>With reguards to the size of our motors, he did say they sold a large
number
>to a few Supra clubs, which I believe the Supra is a 3 liter as well.  He
>also said they have been used a lot by the 3.8L Buick Grand National, as
>well as 5.0L Mustangs.

This is interesting, as my Supra buddy and a Cyclone guy told me that some
people who already have WI finally upgraded to the ERL systems as the
pressure was too low to feed the proper amount of water. And with a starting
price of GBP 300 (System 1S with race pump) I think the ERL stuff isn't that
expensive for what you get ! The System 1 is a simple spray system that is
activated by a pressure switch. Activated at 12 psi it sprays a specific
amount per minute. The amount is choosen by the size of the nozzle but the
pressure is always the same (and is pretty high !!)

>and I didn't want to be using a $600 system for experimenting.  But, for
>those that want to be real serious abuot extracting power, the Aquamist
>system from ERL looks top notch.  The stage 2 from ERL is a mappable
system,
>and is VERY nice.

Yes, I ordered the System2s (with race pump). Additionally I already have
the 3bar MAP sensors that can simply be attached and this will make the
system 3D mappable. The water flow will be controlled by an external valve
that is connected to the MAF2 electronics. This thing can also act as an
injector drive r for anyone who wants to tap into the intake plenum :)

>I also asked Spearco about a group purchase price.

I also spoke with ERL about this and they agreed to get us a discount of up
to 25% if we can get more than 20 people. Unfortunately, I had to pay the
full price :(


BTW, here's a link to a compilation on some good articles and pictures of
the Spearco kit :

http://www.ns.net/~sirmike/MR2/Water.html


Btw, there should be some posts of me in the archives since last November.
For sure I cleaned up my sent directory since then.

For me, it's great to hear such good things about WI from you running the
Spearco and I'm sure it's able to help to crank boost up to get 450 wild
ponies out of the thing without the danger to kill something. THnaks for
being a "Guinea Pig" for us :))

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT   rain = open hood to fill up container :))



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 14:31:14 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: Team3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spearco (incl. Links)
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 16:31:00 -0500
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> Isn't there anything written in the installation manual or so ?My concern
> is
> that the lower the pressure the water is beeing injected the less is the
> vaporization. And if the water drops are getting too big, severe damage or
> at least extended wear to the valves and ports can be the result
>
The info that was in the manual was the physical size of the hole in
the injector, I think the one I am using is .025".  When tested the system
prior to it's first engine on run, I did notice that the spray is a very
fine mist, but excatly how fine is enough, I don't know.

> This is interesting, as my Supra buddy and a Cyclone guy told me that some
> people who already have WI finally upgraded to the ERL systems as the
> pressure was too low to feed the proper amount of water. And with a
> starting
> price of GBP 300 (System 1S with race pump) I think the ERL stuff isn't
> that
> expensive for what you get ! The System 1 is a simple spray system that is
> activated by a pressure switch. Activated at 12 psi it sprays a specific
> amount per minute. The amount is choosen by the size of the nozzle but the
> pressure is always the same (and is pretty high !!)
>
If I choose to go any farther with the modifications to my car, the
ERL system will definately be one of the next steps.

> I also spoke with ERL about this and they agreed to get us a discount of
> up
> to 25% if we can get more than 20 people. Unfortunately, I had to pay the
> full price :(
>
Kick butt!  This means it will be cheaper for me to upgrade!  :)
Wait a minute, didn't I say I wasn't going to do any more upgrades....   :)

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 15:47:18 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: "Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Insight from the new guy
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:47:14 -0500
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> Here are the main differences between those systems. The ERL does not use
> any pressurised tank as a strong pump pushes the water through one or more
> jets. The high pressure is needed to fully vaporize the water as
> 1-2 bars is somewhat low.

Hmm, I think we want the water to be atomized, but not vaporized by the
sprayer.  I think that's what you meant.  We want it to be vaporized by the
heat of the intake charge so the intake temps are reduced.

I like what the ERL system offers in the way of control, but at 5 times the
price I think I'll go with the Spearco if it works well enough for the
street.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 16:33:51 1999
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To: "'Stealth List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust for NT
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 19:36:58 -0400
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I've got a friend that's looking at doing some work on his Stealth NT.
I just wanted to get some clarification on some exhaust issues.  A lot
of people are saying that the stock exhaust flows as well as most
aftermarket exhaust systems.  They then continue on to say that you'll
lose low-end torque due to the aftermarket exhaust.  The way I
understand it, is if the flow is the same, the torque/power should be
the same.  To use Borla as an example, does it actually flow better
and would it be beneficial on a NT other than the weight savings?  The
extent of the mods would probably be intake, resonator removal and
ram-air.

Michael

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 16:35:24 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Stealth List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Insight from the new guy
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 01:30:42 +0200
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> I like what the ERL system offers in the way of control, but at 5 times
the
> price I think I'll go with the Spearco if it works well enough for the
> street.


Check the price out for the Spearco ... this is damn good !

http://www.cnw.com/%7eredline/waterinjectionkit.htm

For sure a great bang for the buck and hp/$ !

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 16:53:27 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
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> Would the different compression ratio, (also different
>between the SOHC and DOHC non-turbos), make it any more- or less-
>appropriate for use on the NT's?

Such a system is appropriate in any situation where too much heat is
generated and only low octane gas is available. The more pressure in the
chamber the higher is the temperature and therefore the higher the danger
for detonation. The turbos produce this hot air as their efficiency becomes
degraded over 12 psi and the discharge air become much hotter :( The
intercoolers cools it down but not enough.

The temperature in the intake plenum on an NA is close to ambient and
cooling it further down may help. But what will then be responsible for the
more power ?

> Would such a system still beadvisable if I'm able to add a supercharger to
my NT?

Not really. As the compression is already high, not more than 6 maybe 9 psi
is the maximum when running an SC. But remember a 220hp NA car running with
9 psi will put 350hp onto the wheels. If the SC or other charger will not be
very efficient due to its small blades or just the design, too much heat
will be produced. Instead of an intercooler a WI system can them be
installed and will be very successfull ! And for $155 I'd never think of
installing an intercooler !

IMHO, Nitrous is the right solution as there is no SC kit available for the
NAs :(

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 17:08:18 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: 60K Service Imminent; Advice requested
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 17:08:11 -0700
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Ok, I'm getting close to 60K miles on my '95 3000GT (NA base model), and I
want to take care of the required maintenance on a sunny weekend in a few
weeks.   I looked through the archives, and I've got a pretty good idea of
what I need.  However, I want to make sure I know what all I have to do, and
I definitely want to make sure I have all the necessary parts.  Please let
me know if I'm missing anything here!

Thanks!
--Erik


Parts I need to get:
----------------------------------
6 NGK  PFR-6J-11 Spark Plugs (leave gap alone? I'll be <=2psi of
boost)
1 Intake Plenum gasket
6 Spark Plug Wires( ? Stock ? Magnacore 8.5mm ?other)
1 K&N FIPK (to replace air filter, duh :)
1 stock TB-MAS intake tube (so I can cut up the old one...)
1 Power Antenna Mast (1 joint stuck, can't get it to work)
5 quarts Mobil One Synthetic 10W30 Oil
1 pint GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) (helps with LA ticking so far)
1 can BG 44K Fuel Injector/Valve cleaner
1 OEM Oil Filter
1 Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer
1 Throttle Body cleaner (while TB's removed for the plugs...  what
kind?)
1 Fuel Filter (OEM?  something else?)


Services already done:
-------------------------------------------
1 Timing Belt (done 52K)
1 P/S A/C belt (done 52K)
1 Clutch, Pres. Plate, TO Bearing (done 52k)
1 Water Pump (done 52K)
1 Change Coolant (done 52K)
1 Replace MT Oil (done 52K)
4 New Tires & Balancing (done 55K)
1 4-wheel Alignment (done 55K)

Any timing adjustments?
Brakes seem ok, pads are fine....anything to do?
CV Boots look ok... anything other than visually inspect for cracks?
Struts dampen spring oscillation with I bounce the car up and down...
anything else to look at?  (don't really see any oil around
struts...)


Tools I'll Need:
------------------------------------------
Floor jack
4ton jackstands
ratchet & sockets
open and closed wrenches
screwdrivers
U-Joint for ratchet?
Torque wrench
Spark plug socket & extension bar


Modifications (if this makes any difference in comments/recommendations):
------------------------------------------
--current
245/50/ZR16 tires
6 rolls of Dynamat (nice and quiet inside)
Front speaker portion of planned stereo (got side-tracked)
--Planned
Aftermarket struts/springs (when the stock ones go)
E-RAM 2psi dual-stage electric supercharger (maybe, if I'm bored :)
1 or 1.5 Farad Capacitor (for stereo and above)




------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
------                                             ----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here one  will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality here and now."   
                                              --T. S. Eliot
-------------------------------------------------------------


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 18 20:00:11 1999
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From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: 60K Service Imminent; Advice requested
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:59:13 -0500
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I'd do the throttle body gasket too, and maaaayyyybe the EGR as well.  And
if you can, get a telescoping magnet wand.  You'll not regret it if a bolt
slips into that engine compartment's nether regions.  =)

And I gapped at .032" for the plugs even though I don't have the mods yet,
and I have a tt, so maybe you don't want to do that.  Check the gap anyway.
Mine came gapped at .050"!!  I think the recommendation for NA is around
.040"

Good luck,

*Phil

Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Employer Services
612-894-3224 (w)
888-415-4894 (pager)


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Gross, Erik
Sent: Friday, June 18, 1999 7:08 PM
To: 'Team3S List'
Subject: Team3S: 60K Service Imminent; Advice requested


Ok, I'm getting close to 60K miles on my '95 3000GT (NA base model), and I
want to take care of the required maintenance on a sunny weekend in a few
weeks.   I looked through the archives, and I've got a pretty good idea of
what I need.  However, I want to make sure I know what all I have to do, and
I definitely want to make sure I have all the necessary parts.  Please let
me know if I'm missing anything here!

Thanks!
--Erik


Parts I need to get:
----------------------------------
6 NGK  PFR-6J-11 Spark Plugs (leave gap alone? I'll be <=2psi of
boost)
1 Intake Plenum gasket
6 Spark Plug Wires( ? Stock ? Magnacore 8.5mm ?other)
1 K&N FIPK (to replace air filter, duh :)
1 stock TB-MAS intake tube (so I can cut up the old one...)
1 Power Antenna Mast (1 joint stuck, can't get it to work)
5 quarts Mobil One Synthetic 10W30 Oil
1 pint GM Engine Oil Supplement (EOS) (helps with LA ticking so far)
1 can BG 44K Fuel Injector/Valve cleaner
1 OEM Oil Filter
1 Oil Drain Plug Crush Washer
1 Throttle Body cleaner (while TB's removed for the plugs...  what
kind?)
1 Fuel Filter (OEM?  something else?)


Services already done:
-------------------------------------------
1 Timing Belt (done 52K)
1 P/S A/C belt (done 52K)
1 Clutch, Pres. Plate, TO Bearing (done 52k)
1 Water Pump (done 52K)
1 Change Coolant (done 52K)
1 Replace MT Oil (done 52K)
4 New Tires & Balancing (done 55K)
1 4-wheel Alignment (done 55K)

Any timing adjustments?
Brakes seem ok, pads are fine....anything to do?
CV Boots look ok... anything other than visually inspect for cracks?
Struts dampen spring oscillation with I bounce the car up and down...
anything else to look at?  (don't really see any oil around
struts...)


Tools I'll Need:
------------------------------------------
Floor jack
4ton jackstands
ratchet & sockets
open and closed wrenches
screwdrivers
U-Joint for ratchet?
Torque wrench
Spark plug socket & extension bar


Modifications (if this makes any difference in comments/recommendations):
------------------------------------------
--current
245/50/ZR16 tires
6 rolls of Dynamat (nice and quiet inside)
Front speaker portion of planned stereo (got side-tracked)
--Planned
Aftermarket struts/springs (when the stock ones go)
E-RAM 2psi dual-stage electric supercharger (maybe, if I'm bored :)
1 or 1.5 Farad Capacitor (for stereo and above)




------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 50k mi + ticking lash adjusters mod
------                                             ----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here one  will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality here and now."
                                              --T. S. Eliot
-------------------------------------------------------------


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 19 01:30:43 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Fuel injectors ???
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This is my first post so bear with me if this is a  dumb ass question. I have
a 92 R/T NON TURBO..could I change to bigger injectors and fuel pump for more
power??

Dave.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 19 07:57:41 1999
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Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 10:56:55 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Tune-Up Question
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List Members,

I am about to perform a basic tune-up on my 91 Stealth RT TT.  I am
going to attempt to do it myself.  Just wanted to make sure that there is
nothing that i will miss.  Correct me if I am wrong, but the only thing
involved in a basic Tune-Up is changing the plugs and wires right?  I believe
that the timing is controlled by the computer so I don't have to adjust it. 
Is there anything else that I need to change or adjust.  Any help would be
appreciated.  Thanx in advance.


Carlo

Black
91 Stealth RT Twin Turbo
3SI #317
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 19 10:44:50 1999
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Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 12:45:31 -0500
From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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To: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 vs RX7 Turbo?
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Jeff A Williamson wrote:

> In a couple of 0-100 runs, will one of us be embarrassed, or will it be at all
> close? I seem to remember reading somewhere that the RX7 Turbos were extremely
> quick to 60 mph. What do you think?
>
> Jeff.
>

Beware of the rotary engine off the line.  I've had three RX-7's(all first gens), and
the engine spools up very quickly.  My 91 TT(when it was running right) would have been
no match for even my old (non-turbo) '85 GSL-SE at the word "GO"(of course after about
40 the RX would have been a blip in the rearview).

I have in my hands a 1994 sales brochure for the RX-7  it gives a HP/Weight ratio of
11.1:1.  This same brochure, interestingly, gives a list of other HP/Weight ratios for
other cars for comparison's sake:  The Ferrari 348, the Acura NSX, the Nissan 300 ZX
Turbo, and (TA-DAH!!!) The MITUBISHI 3000GT VR-4.  The VR-4 weighed in heaviest with a
ratio of 12.6:1:(   This brochure also claims that the RX can do 0-60 in 4.9.

    I also have in my posession a Sales brochure for the '91 Stealth and it isn't quite
as specific as far as the numbers are concerned.  Thus I quote:  "(the) Stealth R/T
Turbo can reach 60 MPH in well under six seconds."

    We all know that driver skill is the ultimate factor, so, give him hell!
Considering all of the mods it could be a fair battle.  Let us know what transpires.

--
-Jeff Crabtree
    '91 Stealth R/T Turbo(#499)
          '93 Wrangler 4.0L Sport
               St. Louis, MO


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 19 16:52:18 1999
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Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 19:49:44 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Free Stock
To: CharlieO01@aol.com, Marydntded@aol.com, GERIMIAH@aol.com, TBute@webtv.net,
        Fcesar13@hotmail.com, Declark@mindspring.com, robinsn4@yahoo.com,
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Hey guys,


This company is offering free stock for members if and when they go
public.  Please use my reference #10285916.  They give 1/2 a stock for every
referal.  Let's try it, nothing to loose.


Carlo
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 19 17:24:39 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: <G3Stealth@aol.com>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <2f0a969d.249caf21@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ???
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> This is my first post so bear with me if this is a  dumb ass question. I have
> a 92 R/T NON TURBO..could I change to bigger injectors and fuel pump for more
> power??
>
> Dave.
=========================================================================
The thing you need to do first is to get it to breath better and that's where less restrictive air
filters,
exhausts and throttle bodies come in. Since it's a fuel injected computer controlled engine it will
try to provide the fuel necessary to support the air flow you provided by your air flow mods.
At some point the injectors will be maxed out and will need to be upgraded but I have no idea where
that point is in a N/A car. The thing that determines when the injectors max out is IDC, or injector
duty cycle, once it gets up to 80% or 90% for prolonged periods of time the injectors can be
damaged.
Your computer is calibrated to use with stock injectors, larger injectors will just cause a rich
mixture
since the fuel map you are working from is for smaller injectors. At this point you need an
aftermarket
computer or a injector control device to fool the computer or a system that replaces the intake
system.

BTY no flaming is allowed so you can ask any technical question you want. Their are guys out there
who make my knowledge level seem puny, but I'm not afraid to pick their brains.

The DSM group would probably be a good source for mods to a N/A as there are more of them in
that group. Going through the archives should also give you a lot lf information for a few nights
reading.

Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                           [soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
                                 GC/Eibach  550# F/330# R
                    Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph
===========================================================================

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 03:49:17 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ???
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>> a 92 R/T NON TURBO..could I change to bigger injectors and fuel pump for
more
>> power??


As Jim already stated, for more power also more fuel and therefore also more
air is needed ! But the air path is not that restrictive on our 3 litre
engine.

If you want to gain from the more air/fuel good headers must be done, also
the valve lift and cam timing as well as ignition has to be changed. Even
more, the car runs better if tuned to the leaner side und a hot timing and
any more fuel delivery would result in less power.

Unfortunately, there is no cheap way to increase power on an N/A car. The
cheapest is a 100hp nitrous shot.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 05:25:10 1999
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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
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It would be great if you could dyno the car with water injection off, then on, etc so we
can quantify the ACTUAL hp / curve difference that WI makes.  ERL was unable to cite any
figures on ANY car when I called them 'back in the day'...
Jack Tertadian

"R.G." wrote:

> Water injection system is appropriate where too much heat
> generated and only low octane gas available. The more pressure in
> chamber the higher the temp and  higher danger
> for detonation.  turbos efficiency becomes
> degraded over 12 psi and discharge become much hotter

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 05:28:48 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Question RE: Team3S: Water Injection
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 08:21:30 -0400
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If you put water injection in or on your car however you wanna say it, must
you always keep it on?  I was under the assumption that you could use it or
not use it if you had it installed and that you didn't always have to use
it. 

-----Original Message-----
From: xwing [mailto:xwing@execpc.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 1999 8:24 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection

It would be great if you could dyno the car with water
injection off, then on, etc so we
can quantify the ACTUAL hp / curve difference that WI makes.
ERL was unable to cite any
figures on ANY car when I called them 'back in the day'...
Jack Tertadian

"R.G." wrote:

> Water injection system is appropriate where too much heat
> generated and only low octane gas available. The more
pressure in
> chamber the higher the temp and  higher danger
> for detonation.  turbos efficiency becomes
> degraded over 12 psi and discharge become much hotter

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 06:40:23 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'Joshua'" <joshua@princelaw.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Question RE: Team3S: Water Injection
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-----Original Message-----
From: Joshua [SMTP:joshua@princelaw.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 20, 1999 7:22 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Question RE: Team3S: Water Injection

If you put water injection in or on your car however you wanna say
it, must
you always keep it on?  I was under the assumption that you could
use it or
not use it if you had it installed and that you didn't always have
to use
it. 

All of the WI systems I have seen are pressure sensitive, meaning
they turn on at a certain pressure point.  To completely turn off my system,
I would have to either pull the fuse, or disconnect power by some other
method.  It would not be very hard to wire an on/off switch into any of the
systems though.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 07:59:18 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 16:57:50 +0200
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>It would be great if you could dyno the car with water injection off, then
on, etc so we
>can quantify the ACTUAL hp / curve difference that WI makes.  ERL was
unable to cite any
>figures on ANY car when I called them 'back in the day'...


Yes, this is on my schedule ! I will dyno the car as it is and without more
steady boost (1.00 bars). Then the water injection will be switched on under
the very same ambient. Finally the new pressure will be set by looking the
dyno where the timing is getting retarded, IDC and A/F ratio. Of course, the
real power will be made by increasing the boost :))

I hope to get the System by the end of next week and will may start without
the injectors (just fuel pump).

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 10:51:18 1999
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 10:51:06 -0700
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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It seems that in our never ending quest for more power, we have to deal
with detonation more than any other issue. There are several ways to
monitor for this behavior: EGT, A/F and IDC come to mind. These are all
aids that are used to determine IF detonation is occurring. But this
does not tell you for sure that it is.

It is also my understanding that the ECU monitors the knock sensor and
if knock is detected, impedes or retards the timing until the condition
has passed. So my question to the list is: why is there no mention of a
timing gauge or meter?

Since the crankshaft position sensor and the no. 1 cylinder ignition are
both pulse signals, it should be fairly simple for someone with an
electronics background to extrapolate those signals to form a base at
the idle state ignition timing. Then as the timing advances, display
this change on an analog volt meter of sufficient sweep. Then one could
watch the timing curve in real time from the driver's seat and back off
the throttle or further tune if the timing starts to retard due to
knock. I know that it takes a certain amount of time for the ECU to
react to the knock sensor, but this action is real whereas the EGT, A/F
are only very educated guesses that detonation is actually occurring.
One could take this a step further and build a meter that would compare
timing to rpms. If the timing retards while the rpms are still
increasing, a warning could be sent such as an audible signal or
flashing light.

Am I missing something or has this been covered before? I don't see
anything in the archives and have never heard such discussions.

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 13:17:16 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Autocrossing
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Took the 94 VR4 to a Corvette Club autocross today, and cleaned house.

I had 3rd fastest time, beaten only by a "special" 1500 lb V8
racer/roadster (sorta like a Lotus Super 7, but with a Chevy V8) who had
FTD by 10 seconds, and a 1966 454 autocrossing Corvette on sticky tires,
driven by the race organizer, who set up the course. Strangely enough, all
the straights seemed to fit his gearing just fine, while I was hitting the
rev limiter 100 ft prior to braking at most turns. Behind me was a 5.0
Mustang on sticky tires, then a gaggle of C5 Vettes.

Pissed them off royally that a rice burner and a 5.0  could whomp their new
Vettes!

BTW, Corvette Club autocrosses are usually much better than SCCA events,
because Corvette courses are wide open. SCCA events are designed for
motorized go karts with super tight turns and stupid slaloms (yuk -- what
does a slalom have to do with anything?).

With our cars, the trick is to get back on the power early, at or before
the apex. Corvettes will smoke the rear tires and get into huge powerslides
if they try that, but our cars just put the power down, smoke all four
sometimes, and accelerate out of the turn without sliding. We may lose a
little in acceleration to the raw power of a C5, but we get it back coming
out of the turns earlier.  (Thanks to whoever it was that gave me that tip
last year: This was the first chance I've had to try it, and it works great!.)

Give autocrossing a go sometime. I pump my stock Michelins to 44/38 hot and
they stick pretty good.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 15:24:20 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <MrX2111@aol.com>, "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 00:20:31 +0200
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>Does anyone know how long the water last in the water injection system? Is
it
>something like 1gallon/hour?Just wondering if driving to work would exhaust
>the supply.

Remember, the system activates the water flow at a specific boost (e.g. 12
psi) and only flows the fluid if boost is higher than that ! Try to count
the time you run this amount of boost and you'll see that this is not that
often, espcially as you should not push the car hard or above 3000 rpm until
the oil temp is ok (like driving to work in the morning)

Also it depends on teh system as with the System 1 from ERL the water flows
at a specific amount sepcified while the System 2 regulates the water flow
with a boost sensor. Therefore at 12psi there will be just a little amount
of water injected and in the upper range the whole reservoir will be given
:)

A Porsche Turbo owner drives around for 2 weeks with one tank while there is
a Cyclone that fills up the tank almost every day (he has still some knock
and just dumps in the juice)


The max flow with the ERL is about 200ml / Minute.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 19:35:30 1999
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        "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Possible auto tranny problem
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 21:36:24 -0000
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Hey -- posted this on the message board also, but thought  that I'd pick the
brains of the mechanics in here...

I have a 92SL with an automatic transmission, and every once in a while when
I shift into reverse, it will pause a couple of seconds and then shift
pretty hard.  Enough to rock the car a bit.

This concerns me greatly.  All other shifts to all other gears are great --
nice and smooth no matter how hard or gently I'm driving.

Anyone know what could possibly be the problem?  Any input would be greatly
appreciated.  Thank you in advance.

Shawn
92SL
3Si#300


-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: MrX2111@aol.com <MrX2111@aol.com>; Team3S List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, June 20, 1999 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection


>>Does anyone know how long the water last in the water injection system? Is
>it
>>something like 1gallon/hour?Just wondering if driving to work would
exhaust
>>the supply.
>
>Remember, the system activates the water flow at a specific boost (e.g. 12
>psi) and only flows the fluid if boost is higher than that ! Try to count
>the time you run this amount of boost and you'll see that this is not that
>often, espcially as you should not push the car hard or above 3000 rpm
until
>the oil temp is ok (like driving to work in the morning)
>
>Also it depends on teh system as with the System 1 from ERL the water flows
>at a specific amount sepcified while the System 2 regulates the water flow
>with a boost sensor. Therefore at 12psi there will be just a little amount
>of water injected and in the upper range the whole reservoir will be given
>:)
>
>A Porsche Turbo owner drives around for 2 weeks with one tank while there
is
>a Cyclone that fills up the tank almost every day (he has still some knock
>and just dumps in the juice)
>
>
>The max flow with the ERL is about 200ml / Minute.
>
>Regards,
>Roger
>93'3000GT TT
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 20:01:18 1999
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Date: Sun, 20 Jun 1999 23:05:46 -0700
From: Joe Gonsowski <twinturbo@mediaone.net>
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For those who may have been curious about my EVC III problem from an
earlier post, here is how I resolved it.  Remember that I had problems
holding boost, it tended to increase with rpm.  Mike (Michael Qwan sp?)
from HKS was a great help and had me re-perform the self learning mode
at a higher initial rpm (2,500 instead of 1,000).  This gave me better
boost control when finished however I still observe boost creep (higher
boost than entered in EVC as engine rpms increase) at lower boost levels
(9psi).  One of the DSM guys told me I probably cannot avoid this with
my setup (15G turbos with low restriction exhaust) as the wastegate
cannot reroute enough exhaust gas to maintain the low boost  At higher
boost levels (12psi and above) the EVCIII performs flawless, holding
desired boost until redline.

For those interested, my results from Milan dragway (first time out in
Stealth):

first two runs at low boost and easy launch/shifts netted a pair of
13.8's at 103 & 106.  Then I had my three best runs of the day (8 total
runs):

60ft        1/8speed    1/4speed    1/4 ET
1.959      81.38         110.34       12.979
1.930      80.20         109.26       13.021
1.913      80.63         110.07       12.977

These three runs were all at 16psi with a fuel rich A/F setting courtesy
of VPC.  I think I'll be purchasing a data logger soon to try and fine
tune at higher boost levels.  Anyone looking to get rid of one (& a
cheap laptop)?

Complaints:  I've raced several cars down the 1/4 over the past few
years and none shift as poorly as my '92 Stealth.  I wasted lots of time
on my 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.  Perhaps I was being overly careful, but I
didn't dare to let off the clutch and get back on the gas until a
complete shift was under my belt.  I'm going to re-adjust the clutch
pedal (right now it disengages/engages only when ALL the way to the
floor) and bleed the system and hope this helps.  As it sits, the shifts
are pretty balky, perhaps my syncros are not up to snuff.

Also, I find it very difficult to cut a good reaction time (ranged from
.73 to 1.4 on a .5 tree).  Either I wait until my rpms are just where I
want them (sacrificing a good reaction time) or go for the good reaction
time and either bog or get off the gas because the rpms are too high.
I've yet to get up to the line and just hold rpms where I want them and
unleash the beast on the last amber light.  This could be and probably
is just operator error.  Practice makes perfect.

BTW - There was a front drive Laser there that ran a 12.03 at 120+ @
25psi, John I think.  Nice/helpful guy.  Very impressive car for FWD!

Thanks,
Joe Gonsowski

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 20 20:46:13 1999
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From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
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Has anyone actually ran a side by side comparison at the dragstrip with
the G-Tech Pro? I did and was so disappointed that I sent it back. It
was very inconsistent ranging from fairly right on to being over 1
second optimistic as shown below. I wondered if mine might have been
defective except my HP numbers were all fairly consistent. Below are the
results from one session. I was dialing in my DSBC at the time so my
times are generally awful as I was watching gauges, etc., but no way was
I going 115-120 at the end of the 1/4. I'm curious as to what others
experiences are because it was a fun toy and if mine was defective,
maybe I'll try another one.

G-Tech Pro     Timeslip
13.08/115.0  14.231/98.339
13.43/118.7  14.426/100.213
14.93/105.0  14.933/98.097
14.15/112.7  14.895/99.629
12.68/120.2  13.930/99.825
13.31/116.4  14.096/101.280
12.43/119.8  13.302/104.770

The alignment was done per instructions and the unit was perfectly level
at the starting line.

Bruce
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 04:38:51 1999
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Hi all,

I'm quite a bit behind on reading the digests since the starnet list is
back -- and it's a good thing.

I started out to just replace the spark plugs and wires, but decided to
also do a compression check and probably diagnose and replace a lash
adjuster or two.  (Of course my luck has it that the ticking is coming
from the rear bank.)  I will be doing some more mods if everything
checks out ok.

On my '93 Stealth TT, I have the air plenum off completely, the cables
and plugs are out, and the crankshaft position sensor is unplugged.  Is
there any reason why I can't get the engine to crank over while this
way?

I figure either the battery has gone flat enough to light lights and
all, but not enough to actually turn over the starter -- unlikely but
possible I guess (what does it sound like or do if this is the case?)...
or some vacuum connection or hose is important enough that the car
doesn't feel it should try starting without it connected to the
manifold/plenum, etc.  There is also one grounding lead that is removed
while taking off the intake.

Any ideas?

One last thing for those that have had their plenum off, etc.  My car
has about 82K miles on it and the interior of the plenum was rather
black, caked with oily soot about .5 mm thick, especially near the
outgoing air end of the plenum.  I'm going to clean it all up of course,
but is this normal, and can I do anything anywhere else that can help
the matter if it isn't?  I'm thinking it's not that bad as the air pipe
is quite clean.

Thanks!

//Rob//
PMW '93 Stealth R/T TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 05:05:17 1999
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----- Original Message -----
From: Rob Corkum <twinturbo@home.com>
<SNIP>
My car has about 82K miles on it and the interior of the plenum was rather black, caked with oily soot about .5 mm thick, especially near the outgoing air end of the plenum.  I'm going to clean it all up of course, but is this normal?

Hi, I guess that it's normal, My plenum was black on the inside and I know that several other people have reported the same thing. I cleaned mine with gasoline and that worked out very good. I sealed the opening with plastic bags and tape and then just filled it up with some gas and gave it a good shake. The plennum then looked brand new on the inside.

When you have the plenum off I suggest that you take the extra time it takes to polish the plenum (on the outside!) with a drilling machine with a wire wheel on it. It will take you 10-20 minutes, you will not get a "show shine" but it will look better that it did when the car was new. Well worth the extra time :)

Regards Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 05:20:54 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
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Subject: Team3S: Oil filter Comparison URL?
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 08:20:32 -0400
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Could someone e-mail me off list the URL of the site which compared oil
filters?  I am at work and I believe I have the original post at home.

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 06:38:35 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil filter Comparison URL?
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http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html

> Brad
      Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Schappell
Sent: Monday, June 21, 1999 7:21 AM
To: 'Stealth'
Subject: Team3S: Oil filter Comparison URL?

Could someone e-mail me off list the URL of the site which compared oil
filters?  I am at work and I believe I have the original post at home.

Thanks,

Kevin Schappell
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 07:05:32 1999
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From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
cc: Jeff A Williamson <Jeff.A.Williamson@jci.com>,
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Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 vs RX7 Turbo?
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> Beware of the rotary engine off the line.  I've had three RX-7's(all
> first gens), and the engine spools up very quickly.  My 91 TT(when it
> was running right) would have been no match for even my old (non-turbo)
> '85 GSL-SE at the word "GO"(of course after about 40 the RX would have
> been a blip in the rearview).

Hi Jeff (et. al.),

   When you mean that your TT could not beat these cars immediately off
the line, I assume that you refer to conditions when the "other car"
launches with little/no spin, correct?
Otherwise, I cannot see how the VR-4 could lose, off the line, to some
suped-up car that is laying rubber all over the road. :)

The times I have watched 3/S members launch at the strip, nothing has
beaten them off the line, except one suped-up Camaro which had no spin at
launch.

Regards,
   Dennis


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 07:42:41 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: G-Tech Pro
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 09:42:41 -0500
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> G-Tech Pro     Timeslip
> 13.08/115.0  14.231/98.339
> 13.43/118.7  14.426/100.213
> 12.68/120.2  13.930/99.825
>
> The alignment was done per instructions and the unit was perfectly level
> at the starting line.

Typically the problem is when you have a car that squats excessively (like
ours do) where the front comes up and the back goes down under acceleration.
This adds another .1G or so to the measurements the GTech is taking, so you
are going to see artificially low times and high trap speeds.  Not sure how
bad your car squats, but I know mine does it quite a lot, even under normal
driving.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 08:11:50 1999
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>Typically the problem is when you have a car that squats excessively (like
>ours do) where the front comes up and the back goes down under acceleration.

My measurments are not bad while the speed is definitely too high. The theory with the car squating down in the rear sounds interesting. I felt that after
removing the spare wheel, some dead animals and replacing the exhaust the times became better and even more consistant. I then also felt that car
less squating than with the heavy stuff in the rear but my 93'3000 TT never lifted its nose a lot.

Also it highly depends if you go a little sideways with the car. When I do this with the LT1 Camaro, the times are totally off while speed seems to be ok.
With the 3S the times I've seen (13.24@1 bar, 13.15@1.15 bar) where high due to a bad driver (i.e. me) and a somwhat slow shifting between 1 & 2
since day 1.

On the Camaro board our conclusion was that the G-Tech pro is about 4 mph and 0.15-0.25 seconds too optimistic. The speed of course is estimated 
for the end of a 1/4 mile while on track it is trap speed.

>bad your car squats, but I know mine does it quite a lot, even under normal
>driving.

Hmm, maybe Mitsu made the Spiders rear suspension somewhat softer to provide more quality and to prevent bending the top too much.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 08:25:53 1999
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Great you finally got the things running the right way.

>at a higher initial rpm (2,500 instead of 1,000).  This gave me better
>boost control when finished however I still observe boost creep (higher
>boost than entered in EVC as engine rpms increase) at lower boost levels
>(9psi).

This is always the same I hear with the EVCs and cars with two turbos (ours, Supra, RX, 300). Although it should be better with the 15Gs as they
spool up somewhat slower than the 9B.

> One of the DSM guys told me I probably cannot avoid this with
>my setup (15G turbos with low restriction exhaust) as the wastegate
>cannot reroute enough exhaust gas to maintain the low boost

No, the wastegates ar quick and especially holding boost at any level is null problemo. The EBC control the wastegates by pulsing the pressure going
to the actuators. With this it is possible to create 2-5 psi for the actuators while the car is at 10psi and holding. Sometimes you can see a weavy
behaviour at the gauge at low boost but this was cured simply by changing the BC settings. A slow weavy behaivour at ultra-high boost has been
caused by the timing alternated due to knock/no-knock.

> At higher boost levels (12psi and above) the EVCIII performs flawless, holding
>desired boost until redline.

The 15Gs are doing this and this proves that the wastegates are quick enough. Otherwise, the boost would alternate too much.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 08:45:08 1999
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From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Paint Maintenance
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 10:45:10 -0500
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I realize this isn't technical, but I figured a bunch of folks who take as
good care inside must take take as good care of the outside.  So, I suppose
private email would be the best route for answers.

This is my first full summer with my stealth (blue), and I'm looking for
anyone who would be willing to share advice on 'healing' paint chips,
especially [of course] in the hood.  I have the paint, but I'm not too good
at figuring out how to fix these chips (most are very small).

Anyone wish to help?  =)

Thanks,
*Phil

Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Employer Services
612-894-3224 (w)
888-415-4894 (pager)


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 08:49:16 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'Stealth'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: FIPK installed, temperature results.
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 1999 11:48:48 -0400
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Well first I installed the filter-charger in the stock air box and noticed
a little more noise and a little better performance.  I then installed the
FIPK after battling with the bolts between the stock air box and the MAF.
(darn plastic ribs that were supposed to capture the studs just flexed and
allowed the studs to turn.)  I did not notice any increase in power from
the air-charger but alot more noise. (which is ok with me)  I do hear the
BOV now, kinda like blowing over a bottle, or a honking goose.  I placed
the temp. probe I had in the airbox right outside of the filter and did not
notice any increase in temp.  Intake temp is still running 10-15 degree F
above outside temp.  I am now waiting for my harness (back ordered ! ) for
the turbo timer so I can install the boost controller. ( I need an accurate
boost guage to tune the controller )  I am thinking about making up a new
cover and placing the timer and controller where the extra 12V power
connection is.

Later,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 21 23:33:31 1999
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Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 02:35:02 -0400
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Update:

> Is there any reason why I can't get the engine to crank over while
> this way?

Well, I had almost answered my own question and got the heads-up from
another list member.  It seems that the engine block is grounded by the
single braided grounding lead off the firewall in front of the driver's
side to the diver's rear corner of the plenum.  I had figured that there
must be another lead somewhere as the manual didn't mention to reconnect
it to some other bolt location.  No problems after that to do the
compression test -- and it turned out ok, with one cylinder a bit lower
than the rest.  I peered down the lower manifold into the area where you
can see both valves for that cylinder and one looked caked up with
something.  All the others were quite clean.  I may snap a few pics and
put them up as a reference when I do clean it.

> One last thing for those that have had their plenum off, etc.  ...
> ...  I'm going to clean it all up of course,

I got the suggestion from another list member to take the opportunity to
polish up the plenum while it's off completely using a wire wheel.

Does anyone have any bad experiences in doing this?  It doesn't look
like it'll take too long -- kind of tedious to get all the nooks and
crannies, but it should keep the bumpy casted surface, but just make it
shinier I guess.  I'll try cleaning out the interior gunk with some
gasoline.

ttyal!

//Rob//
PMW '93 Stealth R/T TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 11:20:35 1999
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To: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>, <G3Stealth@aol.com>,
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ???
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 11:19:48 -0700
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Non-turbo (Normally aspirated) engines function best with a tuned
exhaust, which establishes a calculated amount of backpressure.  A
"less restrictive" exhaust will result in loss of torque at the low
end, 'off the line'...  It will give it a bit more top end, however.

The only ways (short of Nitrous or a supercharger) to increase power
on an NT:
---Polish and/or enlarge the throttle body to minimize turbulence and
friction to the intake air.
---Install a non-restrictive air filter (K&N filtercharger, or
similar).
---Install a ram-air setup which utilizes the speed of the car to
'force' outside air into the throttle body.
---Optimize the path from the air filter to the throttle body with a
smooth hose with a minimum of sharp bends (reposition the battery and
MAS to do so).
---If using the stock air hose, remove the 'resonator' to reduce
turbulence in the intake path.

Naturally, making sure plugs are clean and gapped properly, wires are
in good condition, fluids are correct and at the right level, fuel is
highest octane, etc., keep you from losing power...

Forrest

|> This is my first post so bear with me if this is a  dumb ass
question. I have
|> a 92 R/T NON TURBO..could I change to bigger injectors and fuel
pump for more
|> power??
|>
|> Dave.

-----Original Message-----From: Jim Berry <fastmax@home.com>

|=====================================================================
====
|The thing you need to do first is to get it to breathe better and
that's where less restrictive air
|filters,
|exhausts and throttle bodies come in. Since it's a fuel injected
computer controlled engine it will
---------snip-------


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 11:44:03 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: New Hood Design!!! Lets do it!
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:36:29 -0400
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Ok Guys here is the newest idea.  Brian at GT Alley wants to know how many
people would be interested and base don that he will determine the price.
The hood would incorporate a front air duct, much like the new Vipers have
with that like diamond cut out in the front hood and also the ability for a
front strut brace.  He can make it out of Carbon Fiber or Fiberglass.  Email
me joshua@princelaw.com <mailto:joshua@princelaw.com>  if you would be
interested, the more people, the cheaper.  This will get a lot of cooler air
into the engine compartment and especially the intake.  Here is his email to
me.  I had suggested a look of a Kaze hood just for the fact that
incorporates the strut brace.

The Kaze hood is ugly, and will be hard to duplicate. I can do an original
design if I can get a few orders. I can make something to fit a strut bar,
and incorporate, an NACA duct like the Viper. Let me know if you can round
up some people.
Lets try to get this done, this time.  Brian promised me he would give us
the BEST price and beat any other prices.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 11:47:02 1999
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Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 14:48:20 -0400
Subject: Team3S: Alignment help
From: "Ian Marks" <ianmarks@earthlink.net>
To: "stealth-3000" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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    MY '94 RT/TT pulls to the right constantly at highway speeds (you know
85-90mph). The tires are pretty fresh (27k), inflated properly and don't
show any signs of scalloping or uneven wear. I've taken it to dealers and
found no improvement. I'm taking it to a "high performance" shop next week.
Is there something in particular to check specifically for these AWD
four-wheel active steering cars? I have the service manual also.
Thanks for the advice.


--
Ian Marks
stock '94 Stealth RT twin turbo
Rochester NY
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 11:56:18 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Alignment help
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try switching tires left to right. most likely this will solve your problem.

if that does not help, follow intructiuons for the rear wheel alignments
precisely.

most shops have good equipment but do not know how to use it.

demand printed pre/post figures. most critical are

camber R/L, F/R
caster R/L
rear toe R/L

compare with the book.

good luck


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 12:03:08 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Alignment help
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> try switching tires left to right. most likely this will solve
> your problem.

Only if your tires have non-directional tread should you swap right to left.
If you have directional tread, an arrow on the sidewall will show the
required rotation direction.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 12:04:19 1999
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If $$$$$$ is not a problem...

How about engine work?  I would start with cylinder head porting, and
new higher profile cam shafts (custom made of course because non
available at the moment), then either a longer stroke crankshaft and/or
overbore cylinders with new forged rods and forged pistons to also allow
the increase in compression ratio. (11.5:1 probably max for pumped gas,
or even higher with race gas)

Dreams...

-------- Original Message --------
Non-turbo (Normally aspirated) engines function best with a tuned
exhaust, which establishes a calculated amount of backpressure.  A
"less restrictive" exhaust will result in loss of torque at the low
end, 'off the line'...  It will give it a bit more top end, however.

The only ways (short of Nitrous or a supercharger) to increase power
on an NT:
---Polish and/or enlarge the throttle body to minimize turbulence and
friction to the intake air.
---Install a non-restrictive air filter (K&N filtercharger, or
similar).
---Install a ram-air setup which utilizes the speed of the car to
'force' outside air into the throttle body.
---Optimize the path from the air filter to the throttle body with a
smooth hose with a minimum of sharp bends (reposition the battery and
MAS to do so).
---If using the stock air hose, remove the 'resonator' to reduce
turbulence in the intake path.

Naturally, making sure plugs are clean and gapped properly, wires are
in good condition, fluids are correct and at the right level, fuel is
highest octane, etc., keep you from losing power...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 13:24:57 1999
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        "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ??
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: Re: Team3S: Fuel injectors ??


> If $$$$$$ is not a problem...
>
> How about engine work?  I would start with cylinder head porting, and
> new higher profile cam shafts (custom made of course because non
> available at the moment), then either a longer stroke crankshaft and/or
> overbore cylinders with new forged rods and forged pistons to also allow
> the increase in compression ratio. (11.5:1 probably max for pumped gas,
> or even higher with race gas)
>
> Dreams...
========================================================================

You might as well start with a turbo car ---- it's a lot easier to get HP and would cost less!!!

    Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 16:39:41 1999
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Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 19:39:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: stealth@starnet.net, TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        stealth@dragnet.com
Subject: Team3S: Perhaps a useful URL
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Just got this one.  Perhaps it is of use to some of you.

I have no experience with this yet.

http://www.msrecycling.com/

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 17:22:58 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>,
        "TEAM 3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Perhaps a useful URL
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I called the company just out of curiosity.  When in-stock they have long
block ,6 month warranty, turbo 3.0 engines for $2500.  They also have
factory fresh short blocks for $2200.  I was thinking about picking up a
rebuildable block to rebuild and upgrade little by little as finances allow.

Just thought I would share the info,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
-----Original Message-----
From: Dennis G. Bretton <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: stealth@starnet.net <stealth@starnet.net>; TEAM 3S List
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>; stealth@dragnet.com <stealth@dragnet.com>
Date: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: Team3S: Perhaps a useful URL


>
>Just got this one.  Perhaps it is of use to some of you.
>
>I have no experience with this yet.
>
>http://www.msrecycling.com/
>
>Regards,
>   Dennis
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 19:01:57 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "josesini" <josesini@engin.umich.edu>,
        "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: NT Engine mods... (was: Fuel injectors ??)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 16:34:24 -0700
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I was only following Roger Gerl's lead about LOW cost mods, but...

Could we really go that high with compression on the NT's?  11.5:1?
Could that mean a 20% horsepower gain...?  30%...?  And on a chassis
that's 300 to 500 lbs lighter than a turbo?  Hmmmmmmmmm...

The mods you suggest...,  would anyone have an idea of approximate
price and horsepower benefits?  Dreams, indeed!!!  Reminds me of the
old Beach Boys song about a "Deuce Coupe":

She's ported and relieved
and she's stroked and bored...
She'll do a hundred and forty
On the top-end board..."

Well, not quite...  I only did 137 with mine, way back when...  :-)

I'd love some feedback from you experts...  Just how far could you go
with a cylinder overbore, and forged rods and pistons, etc?

TIA,

Forrest

-----Original Message-----From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>

|If $$$$$$ is not a problem...
|How about engine work?  I would start with cylinder head porting, and
|new higher profile cam shafts (custom made of course because non
|available at the moment), then either a longer stroke crankshaft
and/or
|overbore cylinders with new forged rods and forged pistons to also
allow
|the increase in compression ratio. (11.5:1 probably max for pumped
gas,
|or even higher with race gas)
|
|Dreams...
|
|-------- Original Message --------
|Non-turbo (Normally aspirated) engines function best with a tuned
|exhaust, which establishes a calculated amount of backpressure.  A
|"less restrictive" exhaust will result in loss of torque at the low
|end, 'off the line'...  It will give it a bit more top end, however.
|
|The only ways (short of Nitrous or a supercharger) to increase power
|on an NT:
|---Polish and/or enlarge the throttle body to minimize turbulence and
|friction to the intake air.
|---Install a non-restrictive air filter (K&N filtercharger, or
|similar).
|---Install a ram-air setup which utilizes the speed of the car to
|'force' outside air into the throttle body.
|---Optimize the path from the air filter to the throttle body with a
|smooth hose with a minimum of sharp bends (reposition the battery and
|MAS to do so).
|---If using the stock air hose, remove the 'resonator' to reduce
|turbulence in the intake path.
----------snip----------




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 21:24:20 1999
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Subject: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
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My carbon clutch is slipping.  After 1500 miles of break in on the engine, I
decided it was time to beat on the car a little.

The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into the throttle.
Needless to say I am very disappointed.  The stock clutch held more power.
I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new stock clutch.


Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right with the clutches...This is my
second RPS and they still can't get it right. I hope everyone who purchased
theirs on the group purchase will have better luck than I have.

Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 21:36:37 1999
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Subject: Team3S: ram air
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I wanted to drop my 2cents on the ram air. Maybe its just because i know its
there maybe its not BUT i think it made a difference. $9.99 for flexible
insulated 6" aluminum heating duct from home depot = nice little difference 8)


X
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 21:37:40 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
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Ok, this is off topic, but youse guys are the only ones I can ask. I'm not
on any other forums.

Please respond to me off line, so we don't clog up the list with Mustang
stuff that nobody wants to read.  Reply to merritt@cedar-rapids.net. All
you 3S guys MUST respond off list, or I'll get a stern lecture.

Here's the deal. Number one son bought a 67 Mustang coupe with a good
strong 302 (a 289 with 302 heads and rods), recently rebuilt automatic with
a shifter kit, Hurst shifter, 9-bolt rear end, Corvette brakes and so on.
Problem is, it's a rusted hulk. The floorboards and frame rails are
completely rusted through, and one end of the rear spring is poking through
the trunk floor. Body's OK, but the rest of it is shot. It is far beyond
our ability to fix, and the cost of paying someone to replace all the frame
parts and body panels would be outrageous. BTW, I was not consulted about
the purchase beforehand.

So what do we do with it? Opinions from anyone who knows Mustangs are welcome.

As far as I can see, there are three options:

1. Sell it for whatever he can get and buy another car. Problem: the car is
unsafe to drive. Selling it to another sucker might be criminal. Disclosing
the problems cuts the value considerably. We might get $1,000 for it on a
good day.

2. Buy another Mustang with a good body, put the motor and trans in it, and
call the junkyard to haul away the hulk. We've found a 67 6-cylinder
Mustang for $1200 that might work. Is this going to be more trouble than
it's worth? What year Mustangs will accept a 67 engine and trans? Can a V8
go where a 6 was?  Do we need to replace anything else, like springs?

3. Sell the engine and trans, then junk the car. Advertise it whilst in the
car, so we can run it for the prospective buyer. What's a 302 engine and
automatic worth on the market?

I'm sure there's a Mustang list like ours out there somewhere. Anybody got
an address?

If you know Mustangs, please come back.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4 and one tired old 67 Mustang




For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 22 21:55:57 1999
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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 00:54:37 EDT
Subject: Team3S: AUTOCROSS EVENT!!!!!!!!!!
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I just got a call from a club down in south Florida that will be holding an
autocross event at Hialeah race track,  I believe july 3rd. I will firm up
the date later either that sat or sunday. I will be entering and I think it
would be great to get some 3si people down there for a showing. This is about
a week away. I think a south fl gathering there would be a good event and a
great way to flex some 3si diamond star muscle. So lets go people I have one
helmet and there should be loners there. More info to come hopeful tomorrow. 
Lets try to get a group and maybe we can organize a caravan there. It would
be one hell of an entrance 8).

Mr X
Wei-Lik Liem
3si #130
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 00:32:22 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
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rad, sorry to hear your bad experience on the clutch side :((

>The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into the throttle.

What about braking in ? How many miles have you done without going hard at it ?

>Needless to say I am very disappointed.  The stock clutch held more power.
>I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new stock clutch.

Brad, did you turned the flywheel before you installed the RPS ?

>Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right with the clutches.

Oh yeah ? I had 3 clutches within 36k km, two master cylinders, new pedal, brocken lever in clutch assembly,
etc. And current stock clutch still slips when I want to launch at 5500 !!

>..This is my second RPS and they still can't get it right. I hope everyone who purchased
>theirs on the group purchase will have better luck than I have.

I have heard from two people that installed it and both are happy so far. Of course, they are still braking it in.

All RPS GP participants : I was told the flywheel MUST be turned to prepare the surface for the carbon. Doing
this and doing a good brake-in the clutch should be great !

Good luck with the stock clutch,
Roger

>
>Brad
>Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 03:38:06 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: NT Engine mods... (looong and maybe also for TTs)
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Ok, going the more expensive way but with the benefit of less weight to carry the following mods are possible :

- Overbore to max 3.1 liter (any more is not recommended !)
- Forged pistons with good rings (sure, hehe)
- Porting the heads, the output path is more critical than the input.
- Porting the intake but more to increase the flow and NOT polishing it !!
- good angle job to the valveseats/valves
- Replacing the cams, giving the valves more duration to let the stuff in/out
  (may result in a crappy idle)
- Creating good headers that produce the correct backpressure at the flame front
- Adjustable exhaust for either higher torque or higher top end power

>Could we really go that high with compression on the NT's?  11.5:1?

Hmm, the gaskets and design of head and block are pretty good on our cars but 11:1 should be safer :) Also it is
debatable if the crankshaft and rods can handle more than 11:1, otherwise a good upgrade is necessary too.

>Could that mean a 20% horsepower gain...?  30%...?

With the mentioned mods 20% is a good value. Just look at the 3 liter engine form the NSX. It has about 280hp DIN here
in Europe but is more sophisticated and complex than our NA's and this is why the thing has even more potential !

Fo me this sounds like a lot $$ for work and not for parts and it's not sure how much a "good" porting job will really do.
What will be the hp/$ ratio .... pretty degraded I think :((

What about a heart transplantation from a TT to an NA ?? What is needed : Engine, ECU, (fuel parts ?)

Go back to the cheap side, I think that the NA's best bang for the buck is a Nitrous system with a 80- 150hp shot ($400-
$650) Of course this is of use for some special occasions and of course keeping the wheels from slipping is almost
inpossible when it kicks in ;-)

>I'd love some feedback from you experts...  Just how far could you go
>with a cylinder overbore, and forged rods and pistons, etc?

Hmm, the more you change the stuff the more other parts must be changed as well. This makes me thinking of parting
out a TT with its stuff. Here is the calculation :

Desired Power : 300hp
Current power :  220hp (DOHC)
Delta :                80hp = 36.4% increase

With a supercharger or turbo we therefore need boost of 0.364bars = 5.3psi to get this power. You see that there is a
relatively low boost needed to achieve the desired power and please note, torque will increase about 50% when boost is
there ! So why do need the TT more boost to achieve the same power ? Compression ratio is the keyword here. But I
think 5 psi of boost is no problem for the NAs. I'd even go further and say that there is no need to touch anything within
the engine when doing such a mod.

Now, what do we need to get this boost ? Another calculation first :
Running 0.36 bars of boost :
(182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1.36 (0.36 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 451cfm

This means that our engine sucks 451 ft^3 per minute at 7000rpm with 5.3psi of boost. The question arises if one stock
turbo is enough for this purpose. I'd say that it will run out of steam but for a start why not grabbing one from a junkyard
or any used DSM bigger than the 9B (with the wastegate actuator installed). Here is a conversion plan and I think it is
possible :

- get one turbo (front one if stock) with wastegate and O2 sensor housing
- let someone make an exhaust piping from the rear exhaust manifold to the area below the front pass side headlight.
- do the same for the front (it is much shorter)
- both pipings should end in an y-pipe that has a flange for the turbo
- Place the turbo that it sits parallel to the front with the intake facing the fender
- The filter (K&N) and MAS will be placed where the TT has its stock pass side intercooler.
  It should be mounted somewhat higher to prevent any problems with water.
  Of course the MAS wiring must be extended but this is null problemo.
- Design the position that it is somewhat away from the turbo but can be attached to it without too much problems.
  Use some rubber tubing to connect the MAS outlet to the turbo.
- Let someone make an exhaust piping from the O2 sensor housing to the stock main cat.
  This is now an easy job as there is nothing in its way down to the cat :)
- The turbo outlet is small compared with the TB. Let someone create an ellbow or just take the VR4 stock y-pipe.
  You can also use one of the rubber intercooler hoses from the TT for this purpose.
  Plug up the second IC inlet of the y-pipe
  A nice aluminum piping can be done when the system fully works.
- Use a DSM BPV and vent to the ambient (at first)
- Tap into the intake plenum to get boost reading and BOV activation
- The hardest part at the end : You have to provide an oil and water line to/from the turbo.
  This is not easy and I don't know if the block is already prepared for this.

Also I don't know how large the injectors are and if the pump is the same size as in the TT.

In my point of view, the major problems are the turbo and its cooling lines. Therefore an aftermarket turbo with self lubing
would be fine as the boost will not exceed 6 psi anyways but of course costs somewhat more :( Another point of view is
the fuel system as the injectors may be too small for the desired air flow and another fuel control is needed.

Here a conclusion on my thoughts :
- turbo upgrade is possible
- routing the exhaust piping from the rear may cause more heat in he engine bay
- backpressure must be measured on each bank to design the proper piping to the turbo
- everything is bolt-on and can be undone if necessary
- front precats are gone
- engine internals stay untouched !
- fuel system must be checked to be appropriate
- FPR from TT may be used
- maybe bigger injectors (stock TT) and fuel control are needed
- ECU is untouched

Last but not least, what will this upgrade cost without labour ?
- Turbo (used one, without cooling lines, selflubing) $550
- manifold tubing rear $400
- manifold tubing front $100
- exhaust downpipe (O2 housing - main cat) $200
- stock injectors $240
- some stock TT parts $100
- fuel control $250 and up

Total cost : $1850 ... Is this too much for a Turbo kit for the NA's achieving 300 horses ? With the less weight than a TT
and still some good traction I'm pretty sure that one can brake into the 13's on the 1/4 mile. As this step one will not
include any intercooling only measuring the temperatures will show any necessary cooling.

Ok, discussion is open :) If anyone can provide me with digital pics from a 3S, especiall under/behind the TB, rear
exhaust manifold, from manifold, are under the pass headlight, etc. I'd draw a short design on how the system could
look like.

Maybe I'm off with my calculation or I have just forgotten anything. Please let me know what do you think and ask me as
much as you can. As I do not have an NA car I probably did not thought about something. Also keep this thread as
official as possible to get as much input from the group as possible.

Regards,
Roger (where can I get an NA cheap here, hehe ???)
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 05:36:19 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
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Flywheel is new.  I replaced it to eliminate the possibility of the machine
work being done wrong.

As I posted, I have about 1500 miles on the clutch before I did any
aggressive driving.

The stock clutch that I took out held 5500 RPM launches with no problems.  I
may try the stock pressure plate with the Carbon disk, depending on the
condition on the disk when I pull it out.

The biggest problem is the labor involved in replacing the clutch.  If it
were only a 2.5 hour job I wouldn't' worry about it.  The job takes at least
5+ hours to do it right.

I have sent Rob Smith an E-mail to see what he has to say. I'll post further
when he gives me a response.

*shrug*
Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 2:35 AM
To: bbedell@austin.rr.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!

rad, sorry to hear your bad experience on the clutch side :((


What about braking in ? How many miles have you done without going hard at
it ?


Brad, did you turned the flywheel before you installed the RPS ?

>Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right with the clutches.

Oh yeah ? I had 3 clutches within 36k km, two master cylinders, new pedal,
brocken lever in clutch assembly,
etc. And current stock clutch still slips when I want to launch at 5500 !!

I have heard from two people that installed it and both are happy so far. Of
course, they are still braking it in.

All RPS GP participants : I was told the flywheel MUST be turned to prepare
the surface for the carbon. Doing
this and doing a good brake-in the clutch should be great !

Good luck with the stock clutch,
Roger


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 08:22:00 1999
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Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 11:19:33 EDT
Subject: Team3S: Garbage set rims & tires wanted
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If you have 4 junk rims with bald tires - I want em.
Prefer 16 size but can use 16, 17, or 18.
They only need to hold air (slow air leak OK)
so I can move my car off the jacks onto a trailer.
Looking for really cheap price. Please, Email direct.
Tks. Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 08:26:21 1999
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A saw a post a while back that someone was selling their synchros that they
bought from Jack T.

Are they still available?

Anyone else that bought them from Jack T. and does not need them, please let
me know.  I'm in the market for a set(1-2 is where I'm having a problem, but
3-4 would also be nice as long as I have the tranny apart.)

My problem is not shifting from 1st to 2nd, its from shifting from any gear
to 1st while the car is in motion(Grind).  I believe my problem is with the
"blocking ring" or "baulking ring"(I've seen it both ways).  This ring is
part of the synchro assembly.

Anyone out there that has taken their tranny apart, contact me privately
with your experiences.

Thanks,

Mark Wendlandt
'91RT/TT

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt     Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:  957-3736     Pager: 601-0881
Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mattj@fallon.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 2:03 PM
To: stealth-3000
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alignment help


> try switching tires left to right. most likely this will solve
> your problem.

Only if your tires have non-directional tread should you swap right to left.
If you have directional tread, an arrow on the sidewall will show the
required rotation direction.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 08:52:36 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:52:37 -0500
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> My carbon clutch is slipping.  After 1500 miles of break in on
> the engine, I decided it was time to beat on the car a little.

> The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into the throttle.
> Needless to say I am very disappointed.  The stock clutch held more power.
> I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new stock clutch.

I don't know anything about the RPS clutches, but on the other aftermarket
clutches I used on my DSM they each had a different flywheel depth
specification.  Did your machine shop cut your flywheel correctly?

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 09:10:35 1999
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To: "'Team 3S list'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 09:10:09 -0700
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join the crowd.  Kormex Trans in CA was SUPPOSED to be developing a set and they were due out this month.  Haven't heard anything from Frank Martin on an update.  I'm sure the list is quite long.  Brad Bedell had a set or two, that he sold a month or so ago.  They went like wildfire.

Any other sources out there that have appeared lately?

--

On Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:25:15   Wendlandt, Mark (MN51) wrote:
>A saw a post a while back that someone was selling their synchros that they
>bought from Jack T.
>
>Are they still available?
>
>Anyone else that bought them from Jack T. and does not need them, please let
>me know.  I'm in the market for a set(1-2 is where I'm having a problem, but
>3-4 would also be nice as long as I have the tranny apart.)
>
>My problem is not shifting from 1st to 2nd, its from shifting from any gear
>to 1st while the car is in motion(Grind).  I believe my problem is with the
>"blocking ring" or "baulking ring"(I've seen it both ways).  This ring is
>part of the synchro assembly.
>
>Anyone out there that has taken their tranny apart, contact me privately
>with your experiences.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Mark Wendlandt
>'91RT/TT
>
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Mark Wendlandt     Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
>Phone:  957-3736     Pager: 601-0881
>Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
>~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Jannusch [mailto:mattj@fallon.com]
>Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 1999 2:03 PM
>To: stealth-3000
>Subject: RE: Team3S: Alignment help
>
>
>> try switching tires left to right. most likely this will solve
>> your problem.
>
>Only if your tires have non-directional tread should you swap right to left.
>If you have directional tread, an arrow on the sidewall will show the
>required rotation direction.
>
>-Matt
>'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>


HotBot - Search smarter.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 09:55:47 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: <mattj@fallon.com>, "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 11:54:52 -0500
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I specifically asked Rob about this.  He said "stock specifications is what
the clutch is designed for".

Centerforce is the only clutch who specifies a different flywheel depth
specification.

I used  a new flywheel to avoid the possibility of machining the flywheel
wrong.

Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

I don't know anything about the RPS clutches, but on the other aftermarket
clutches I used on my DSM they each had a different flywheel depth
specification.  Did your machine shop cut your flywheel correctly?


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 10:09:34 1999
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From: Michael Reiss <michael_reiss@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 10:09:29 PDT
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I just received my Carbon Clutch from the GP and threads like
this are making me second guess installing it.
Overall the design looks ok but I was surprised how thin the pucks are.  I
was more concerned about longevity rather than slippage...but now that seems
to be an issue too.


>From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
>To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
>Date: Tue, 22 Jun 1999 23:23:27 -0500
>
>My carbon clutch is slipping.  After 1500 miles of break in on the engine,
>I
>decided it was time to beat on the car a little.
>
>The RPS clutch slipped the very first time I got into the throttle.
>Needless to say I am very disappointed.  The stock clutch held more power.
>I will be speaking to RPS after I install a new stock clutch.
>
>
>Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right with the clutches...This is
>my
>second RPS and they still can't get it right. I hope everyone who purchased
>theirs on the group purchase will have better luck than I have.
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> > E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 12:48:23 1999
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Subject: Team3S: ground control group purchase
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Lo and behold ---- springs and adjustable spacers dropped in my lap from ground control via UPS.
has the dam broken??   Plus as an added bonus --- the RPS carbon clutch. Will wonders never cease.

Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                           [soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
                                 GC/Eibach  550# F/330# R
                    Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 14:12:10 1999
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From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
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Subject: Team3S: Tires again
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Well, my "intentions" to replace my tires have turned into a "necessity".
I picked up a HUGE nail on my way into work, and now one of my tires is
nearly as flat as the tread on them.  :(

Rather than rehash the entire "What do you recommend for the 16-inch
wheels?", is there anyplace where the comments, critiques, and
recommendations of this list and starnet have been compiled into a useful
document?  I've checked 3si.org and 3000gt.com, but haven't found what I'm
looking for. 

(FWIW, I'm leaning towards the "upsized" Firehawks one of you mentioned a
few weeks ago.)

Thanks!

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 14:32:01 1999
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To: "'Dennis Moore'" <stealth@kiva.net>,
        "'Team3S List'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tires again
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 14:31:45 -0700
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dennis Moore [mailto:stealth@kiva.net]

> I picked up a HUGE nail on my way into work,

sorry to hear about the tire...but now you have a good excuse to get those
new tires:)

> Rather than rehash the entire "What do you recommend for the 16-inch
> wheels?", is there anyplace where the comments, critiques, and
> recommendations of this list and starnet have been compiled
> into a useful document?

Haven't seen a document, but I'll summarize what I found.

Performance:
Michelin Pilot SX MXX-3
Firestone Firehawk SZ50

Inexpensive:
Nitto 555 Extreme
Sumitomo HTR4

All-round:
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4

Snow:
Michelin Pilot XGT Z4

>From Andrew Brilliant:
Pirelli PZERO's 14,500 Miles to replacement
    Best transfer torque to ground of all excellent drag
launch tire Good predictability  When it rains you are
done for, due to its asymetrical tread design I think
BTW there is a directionalle version availuble but it
supposedly doesn't handle as good

Goodyear Eagle GS-C  13,000 Miles to replacement

Mediocre in every sense of the word, but inexpensive,
nothing impressive here excellent pridictable and good ride

BF G COMP TA-ZR 10,000 Miles to replacement

A hell of a tire for the money, wears quickly though treadwear of
180 I used it up in 10,000 Miles

Michelling Pilot SX MXX-3 8,000 Miles to replacement

This tire gave almost no warninig when it was about to loose
traction, I had to crack the windows to hear it at all. They
wold hold perfect till they didn't hold at all.
AND HOLD THEY did.  These tires are by far the best traction,
of all, and cornering capability was extremely impressive
Big Cons is the PRICE $$$$ 240 a piece, and they lasted
8,000 Miles.  Be prepared for some amazing performance, and be
prepared to pay for it.

Goodyear Eagle F1 GS 29,000 Miles

This is the tire I reccommend to everyone, it's 300 treadwear
rating is similar to alot of H rated tires, it can hold its own
against the MXX-3's (good race MXX-3 would win though)  But it'll
last you twice as long not to mention a 245/45 17 is on sale at
tire rack for $180!!!!  Don't get the GS-Steel though, it is a
harder compound, it is more precise due to the stiffer sidewalls,
and wears a little longer.  If you like that or the runflat thing
get the steel, its just alot more expensive. like $208 at tirerack.



> (FWIW, I'm leaning towards the "upsized" Firehawks one of you
> mentioned a few weeks ago.)

That would be me:)  245/50/ZR16s and I still love em...

--Erik
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 15:00:01 1999
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I asked a question about the TT's camshaft duration, and it's been
stated that the TT's exhaust cam has 4degrees more duration. Would this
work in an NA with the 10:1 compression, or will the exhaust valve bo
open too long and cause valve to smash the piston Will it help? Can the
exhaust cams be installed in the intake cam position? 

Matt
#311
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 15:24:29 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: NT Engine mods... (looong and maybe also for TTs)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 15:21:02 -0700
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IMHO and being a guy who built many, many race cars:

just sell your NA and buy a TT.

secondhand prices of these cars are almost the same.

that will save you a lot of headache, your marriage and your bank account,
both in the short term and in the long term.

I know one gets attached to own car and develops emotional ties. get over
it.

if you still get the itch, you can do simple mods to your TT.

almost all turbo cars respond very generously to mods. very good HP/$, good
bang for the buck in other words.

Technically, anything is possible for the NA. Is it worth it? that is your
decision to make. You can get custom grind cams and with decent headers, you
can rev 9000 easy, developing 300+ HP. But remember, each part may require
several trial and errors, costing you grief, time and money, lots of it.

good luck.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 17:39:27 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
References: <3FED573F5E70D111A11900805F15163F0187C8CD@mn51mail2.cfsmo.honeywell.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Synchros needed
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 17:35:30 -0700
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>
> Jim,
>
> What is your background regarding manual transaxels?  The reason I ask is,
>  taking one of these trannys apart something that your typical "shadetree
> mechanic" should attempt?  I feel that I'm a competent mechanic(I've done
> the 60K and replaced my own clutch on my car)
> Did you need any special tools to disassemble the transmission. 
==========================================================
A marginally gifted but patient person can do all necessary work -- a digital camera
would be nice. I've done a trans before so I know the major components.
special tools --- I did need an impact wrench for the back bolt and a spring clip remover.
Plus some stuff needs pulling so I farmed out the press work. I started from the
back --- wrong move!!!
=============================================================
> This is what I envision if I were able to get a synchro assembly.
>
> -Disassemble the transmission(I understand that the trick here is to remove
> the black plug and remove the bolts behind the plug).
> -Inspect the gears and look for any damage. 
> -Clean everything
> -Replace the 1-2 and 3-4 synchros...Any tricks here??
> -Assemble the transmission...Any tricks here??
=============================================================
Start from the front [ Bell housing end ] --- the only spring loaded parts are the
detent springs for the shift  forks and the shifter mechanism. Loosen the detent cover
bolts [ rear of the trans, two 10mm hex head ] then pry up cover so as not to launch the
springs. Remove bolts, remove springs, remove ball bearing. The shift mechanism needs to
be wiggled out and there is a spring forcing it upward, mine fell out and it drops to the
bottom of the trans [ inside of course --- which ain't bad if you're removing everything ].
After removing the front cover you need to remove the front output shaft [ It's a concentric
shaft that fits into the output shaft of the viscous coupling ---it just lifts out ]. Next remove
the center differential, it too just lifts out [ it's heavy ].
Next you can remove the center trans housing, easier said than done. you need to pry, lift,
tilt, swear, pray and use your special book of German incantations , but it does lift off.
You are now left with the input shaft, intermediate shaft, shift forks and viscous coupling all
stuck in the end cap. The viscous coupling will come out at this point [ remember, I did this
the other way around]. Now comes the 'bolt' -- it's a 7mm allen head and mine was TIGHT!!
I used a Snap-on star wrench and a 1/2" impact. After removing the 'bolt' I find the shaft is
still pressed in [ curses and swear words ]. I was able to remove the shaft by setting it on the
proper size socket then tapping on the rear cover until it popped out. At this point you have
what is known as a Getrag transmission kit.
Without specs I could only look for abnormal wear and since I have a set of the precious
synchros I know what they should look like new.
To get at the 1-2 synchros on the intermediate shaft you need to remove a keeper ring,
press off a taper bearing cage and race, remove 1st gear and it's needle bearing then
press off the 2nd gear which will remove the1st gear needle bearing race and the synchro
assembly. Whew !!
There are spring loaded detent balls [ three ] in the synchro so watch it.
3-4 is a little tougher -- I left it alone after an aborted attempt. After removing a keeper ring
the fixed first gear needs to be pressed off. I chickened out at 6 tons and no movement.
I found out later that it might require 10 tons and the application of heat to the gear. You
need a competent trans guy to do that work.
Be patient and keep track of parts!!!!!!!!!! Bag and label stuff ---- take pictures!!!!!!
==============================================================

> You said that you took it apart to inspect it before installing.  What are
> you using to determine whether or not something is within spec.  Are you
> just visually inspecting the components for wear/damage
==============================================================
I was only able to look for abnormal wear plus I believed the trans to be good. You can get
seals and bearings from GTR motorsports. Changing bearings changes internal specs.
============================================================
> What are you going to use for torque specs??  I was going to use the section
> of the service manual that covers the manual transmission for the FWD
> versions of our cars as a guide??  Are they similar enough to do this?
============================================================
The only torque's are the bolts holding the case together --- use the FWD spec.
=========================================================
> Are you taking pictures as you do this?  If you have pictures, I would
> appreciate it if you would send them to me.
=========================================================
I hope to but I haven't done so yet. I can get you some digital pics if you have special
requests.

This was an overview only --- What I wrote in ten words might require 1/2 hour of
thought to accomplish.


   Jim Berry


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 19:44:17 1999
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>, "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 22:48:00 -0400
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Brad and others,
We have had no problems whatsoever with our turbo clutch carbon 5000rpm
launches and 500+hp held no problem and Jack T. posted a similar report so I
believe the problem is specific to your clutch. Check with Rob Smith at RPS;
they do warranty their product.
Frank
www.AcceleratedAccessories.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 8:36 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!


>
>Flywheel is new.  I replaced it to eliminate the possibility of the machine
>work being done wrong.
>
>As I posted, I have about 1500 miles on the clutch before I did any
>aggressive driving.
>
>The stock clutch that I took out held 5500 RPM launches with no problems.
I
>may try the stock pressure plate with the Carbon disk, depending on the
>condition on the disk when I pull it out.
>
>The biggest problem is the labor involved in replacing the clutch.  If it
>were only a 2.5 hour job I wouldn't' worry about it.  The job takes at
least
>5+ hours to do it right.
>
>I have sent Rob Smith an E-mail to see what he has to say. I'll post
further
>when he gives me a response.
>
>*shrug*
>Brad
>Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of R.G.
>Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 1999 2:35 AM
>To: bbedell@austin.rr.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Re: Team3S: RPS Carbon clutch!!
>
>rad, sorry to hear your bad experience on the clutch side :((
>
>
>What about braking in ? How many miles have you done without going hard at
>it ?
>
>
>Brad, did you turned the flywheel before you installed the RPS ?
>
>>Seems Mitsubishi actually did something right with the clutches.
>
>Oh yeah ? I had 3 clutches within 36k km, two master cylinders, new pedal,
>brocken lever in clutch assembly,
>etc. And current stock clutch still slips when I want to launch at 5500 !!
>
>I have heard from two people that installed it and both are happy so far.
Of
>course, they are still braking it in.
>
>All RPS GP participants : I was told the flywheel MUST be turned to prepare
>the surface for the carbon. Doing
>this and doing a good brake-in the clutch should be great !
>
>Good luck with the stock clutch,
>Roger
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 20:07:04 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>, "'Dennis Moore'" <stealth@kiva.net>,
        "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires again
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 1999 20:04:36 -0700
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There's a great comparison on the TireRack site between...:

BFGoodrich g-Force KD
vs
Michelin Pilot SX MXX3
vs
Pirelli PZero Asimmetrico

at http://www.tirerack.com/tires/frames/tiretest_results_f.html

Y-rated tires!  (186mph)  Whew!

Forrest


-----Original Message-----From: Gross, Erik <erik.gross@intel.com>


|> -----Original Message-----
|> From: Dennis Moore [mailto:stealth@kiva.net]
|
|> I picked up a HUGE nail on my way into work,
|
|sorry to hear about the tire...but now you have a good excuse to get
those
|new tires:)
|
|> Rather than rehash the entire "What do you recommend for the
16-inch
|> wheels?", is there anyplace where the comments, critiques, and
|> recommendations of this list and starnet have been compiled
|> into a useful document?
|
|Haven't seen a document, but I'll summarize what I found.
|
|Performance:
|Michelin Pilot SX MXX-3
|Firestone Firehawk SZ50
|
|Inexpensive:
|Nitto 555 Extreme
|Sumitomo HTR4
|
|All-round:
|Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
|
|Snow:
|Michelin Pilot XGT Z4
|
|From Andrew Brilliant:
| Pirelli PZERO's 14,500 Miles to replacement
|     Best transfer torque to ground of all excellent drag
| launch tire Good predictability  When it rains you are
| done for, due to its asymetrical tread design I think
| BTW there is a directionalle version availuble but it
| supposedly doesn't handle as good
|
| Goodyear Eagle GS-C  13,000 Miles to replacement
|
| Mediocre in every sense of the word, but inexpensive,
| nothing impressive here excellent pridictable and good ride
|
| BF G COMP TA-ZR 10,000 Miles to replacement
|
| A hell of a tire for the money, wears quickly though treadwear of
| 180 I used it up in 10,000 Miles
|
| Michelling Pilot SX MXX-3 8,000 Miles to replacement
|
| This tire gave almost no warninig when it was about to loose
| traction, I had to crack the windows to hear it at all. They
| wold hold perfect till they didn't hold at all.
| AND HOLD THEY did.  These tires are by far the best traction,
| of all, and cornering capability was extremely impressive
| Big Cons is the PRICE $$$$ 240 a piece, and they lasted
| 8,000 Miles.  Be prepared for some amazing performance, and be
| prepared to pay for it.
|
| Goodyear Eagle F1 GS 29,000 Miles
|
| This is the tire I reccommend to everyone, it's 300 treadwear
| rating is similar to alot of H rated tires, it can hold its own
| against the MXX-3's (good race MXX-3 would win though)  But it'll
| last you twice as long not to mention a 245/45 17 is on sale at
| tire rack for $180!!!!  Don't get the GS-Steel though, it is a
| harder compound, it is more precise due to the stiffer sidewalls,
| and wears a little longer.  If you like that or the runflat thing
| get the steel, its just alot more expensive. like $208 at tirerack.
|
|
|
|> (FWIW, I'm leaning towards the "upsized" Firehawks one of you
|> mentioned a few weeks ago.)
|
|That would be me:)  245/50/ZR16s and I still love em...
|
|--Erik
|For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
|


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Wed Jun 23 21:02:25 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "team 3si" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
References: <001901bebdee$cf4dc880$0101010a@bradley.austin.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Synchros needed
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> I would be interested in the center differential area, along with how it
> works with the rest of the transmission.  IF you could make pictures of
> everything that would be even more of a plus.
===============================================================

I'll have access to a digital camera in the next few days -- I'll post a message when I
get some photos. If you have an immediate need let me know and I'll see if I can
speed it up.

   Jim Berry

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 00:16:12 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires again
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And not get the Yokohamas !!!

I currently have the 255/40-17 AVS S1-Z all around and I'm not happy with them. Not on dry roads, not on wet, they are
not that comfortable at any psi I pumped them and do not hold in the turns I do my testdrives. Why I got them ? They
had them on a great prices and come standard on the Porsche Boxter, so I thought it is not a bad tire. Well, it seems to
last long (almost twice the miles) compared to the great Dunlop SP8000 I had before.

Another car, another tire behaviour !

Later, Roger


On Wed, 23 Jun 1999 20:04:36 -0700,     Bob Forrest  wrote:
>There's a great comparison on the TireRack site between...:
>
>BFGoodrich g-Force KD
>vs
>Michelin Pilot SX MXX3
>vs
>Pirelli PZero Asimmetrico
>
>at http://www.tirerack.com/tires/frames/tiretest_results_f.html
>
>Y-rated tires!  (186mph)  Whew!
>
>Forrest
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires again
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I have 17" Nitto 555's on my Honda and like them better than the Dunlop SP8000's I had
before.
The Nittos are more grippy and have better feel at the limits.  SP8000 felt kinda greasy
in
comparison, needed higher slip angles to get corner force, and with lesser traction the
rear
end would come around snap-like, not predictable.
Jack T.

Bob Forrest wrote:

> There's a great comparison on the TireRack site between...:
> BFGoodrich g-Force KD vs Michelin Pilot SX MXX3
> vs Pirelli PZero Asimmetrico
> Y-rated tires!  (186mph)  Whew!
> Forrest

> |Performance:Michelin Pilot SX MXX-3 Firestone Firehawk SZ50
> |Inexpensive:Nitto 555 Extreme Sumitomo HTR4
> |All-round:Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
> |Snow:Michelin Pilot XGT Z4
> |
> |From Andrew Brilliant:
> | Pirelli PZERO's 14,500 Miles to replacement
> |     Best transfer torque to ground of all excellent drag
> | launch tire Good predictability  When rains you are
> | done for, due to asymetrical tread design
> | directionalle version doesn't handle as good
> |
> | Goodyear Eagle GS-C  13,000 Miles to replacement
> | Mediocre, inexpensive, excellent pridictable good ride
> |
> | BF G COMP TA-ZR 10,000 Miles to replacement
> |  hell of a tire for money, wears quickly  treadwear
> | 180 I used it up in 10,000 Miles
> |
> | Michelling Pilot SX MXX-3 8,000 Miles to replacement
> | This tire gave almost no warninig when it was about to loose
> | traction wold hold perfect till they didn't hold at all.
> |   These tires are by far the best traction,
> |  cornering capability was extremely impressive
> | Big Cons is the PRICE $$$$ 240 a piece, and they lasted 8,000 Miles.
> |
> | Goodyear Eagle F1 GS 29,000 Miles
> | This is the tire I reccommend to everyone,  300 treadwear
> | against the MXX-3 good race MXX-3 would win
> | last twice as long Don't get GS-Steel it is
> | harder compound, more precise stiffer sidewalls,wears longer.
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 06:10:56 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Tires again
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:03:25 -0400
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What about those Firehawk tires people were saying were awesome and at a
real good price?

-----Original Message-----
From: xwing [mailto:xwing@execpc.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 8:59 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Tires again

I have 17" Nitto 555's on my Honda and like them better than
the Dunlop SP8000's I had
before.
The Nittos are more grippy and have better feel at the
limits.  SP8000 felt kinda greasy
in
comparison, needed higher slip angles to get corner force,
and with lesser traction the
rear
end would come around snap-like, not predictable.
Jack T.

Bob Forrest wrote:

> There's a great comparison on the TireRack site
between...:
> BFGoodrich g-Force KD vs Michelin Pilot SX MXX3
> vs Pirelli PZero Asimmetrico
> Y-rated tires!  (186mph)  Whew!
> Forrest

> |Performance:Michelin Pilot SX MXX-3 Firestone Firehawk
SZ50
> |Inexpensive:Nitto 555 Extreme Sumitomo HTR4
> |All-round:Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
> |Snow:Michelin Pilot XGT Z4
> |
> |From Andrew Brilliant:
> | Pirelli PZERO's 14,500 Miles to replacement
> |     Best transfer torque to ground of all excellent drag
> | launch tire Good predictability  When rains you are
> | done for, due to asymetrical tread design
> | directionalle version doesn't handle as good
> |
> | Goodyear Eagle GS-C  13,000 Miles to replacement
> | Mediocre, inexpensive, excellent pridictable good ride
> |
> | BF G COMP TA-ZR 10,000 Miles to replacement
> |  hell of a tire for money, wears quickly  treadwear
> | 180 I used it up in 10,000 Miles
> |
> | Michelling Pilot SX MXX-3 8,000 Miles to replacement
> | This tire gave almost no warninig when it was about to
loose
> | traction wold hold perfect till they didn't hold at all.
> |   These tires are by far the best traction,
> |  cornering capability was extremely impressive
> | Big Cons is the PRICE $$$$ 240 a piece, and they lasted
8,000 Miles.
> |
> | Goodyear Eagle F1 GS 29,000 Miles
> | This is the tire I reccommend to everyone,  300
treadwear
> | against the MXX-3 good race MXX-3 would win
> | last twice as long Don't get GS-Steel it is
> | harder compound, more precise stiffer sidewalls,wears
longer.
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 06:58:58 1999
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From: "Gendron, Curt" <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "'steatlh@starnet.net'" <steatlh@starnet.net>
Subject: Team3S: Water Injection data
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 08:58:50 -0500
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Hey everyone,

John Basol and I took his car out to test his water injection system and his
knock indicator last night.  You can check out the results at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/5641/water-injection.doc

If you need a notepad version of the file, let me know.  This data is juicy,
enjoy!!

I will be unsubscibing and resubscribing at a new address soon.  If you want
to reach me in the next two days, send you comments to this address.  After
that send them to cgendron@gateway.net


Have fun!
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/1044/

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 07:16:45 1999
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From: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
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----- Original Message -----
From: Gendron, Curt <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>

WOW!! This was really good information. THANX!

These figures are almost the same as I got when I installed WI in my Celica GT4. Those 0.25 bars make a BIG difference in performance :)

At what PSI starts the pump? (I started mine at 0.8bar)

Where is the nozle located?

Regards

Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 07:17:47 1999
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To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?=27Mikael_=C5kesson=27?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection data
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8psi


John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mikael Åkesson [SMTP:vr4@bahnhof.se]
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 9:13 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gendron, Curt <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
>
> WOW!! This was really good information. THANX!
>
> These figures are almost the same as I got when I installed WI in my
> Celica GT4. Those 0.25 bars make a BIG difference in performance :)
>
> At what PSI starts the pump? (I started mine at 0.8bar)
>
> Where is the nozle located?
>
> Regards
>
> Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 07:36:30 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?=27Mikael_=C5kesson=27?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection data
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Sorry,
forgot to answer your other question.

The nozzle is located right after the 90 degeree turn in the y-pipi, about 4
inches away from the throttle body.


John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mikael Åkesson [SMTP:vr4@bahnhof.se]
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 9:13 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Gendron, Curt <Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com>
>
> WOW!! This was really good information. THANX!
>
> These figures are almost the same as I got when I installed WI in my
> Celica GT4. Those 0.25 bars make a BIG difference in performance :)
>
> At what PSI starts the pump? (I started mine at 0.8bar)
>
> Where is the nozle located?
>
> Regards
>
> Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 07:37:47 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Blitz Installation
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:37:41 -0500
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Hey all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any info about removing the stock boost
controll solenoid when using a Blitz DSBC.  Specifically what effects it
had, and how to do it.  I am noticing that I'm having a hard time keeping
boost pressure held.  I can get it to peak just fine, but it tends to fall
of to 10-12psi, in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd, especially when doing 'drag
race' type launches when the turbos don't have time to build.
My DSM has no problem holding boost.  I know that is a bigger turbo,
but it's only one and it must feed 2 liters of engine.  These might be
smaller, but they are only feeding 1.5 liters a piece.
I'm hoping to be ablt to get them to hol 17-18psi a little farther
in 1st-3rd gears.

Thanks Guys


John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 07:49:35 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Blitz Installation
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Hi

I suggest that you disconnect the stock boost solenoid. Just disconnect the lines to stock boost solenoid and then plug them with a screew and a zip tie.

I had some strange behavior as well before I disconnected the stock solenoid. Another good thing is that you will have bigger tuning range and less risc for problems with the ECU.

My turbos (9B) are holding boost very good at 1:st and 2:nd but in 3:rd gear I notice some "fall back" I don't know if I can hold 18 PSI because I haven't tested to go that high and I wont try it either before I get some water injection.

BTW do you spray the water up or down stream?

/Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu

----- Original Message -----
From: Basol, John <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 4:37 PM
Subject: Team3S: Blitz Installation


Hey all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any info about removing the stock boost
controll solenoid when using a Blitz DSBC.  Specifically what effects it
had, and how to do it.  I am noticing that I'm having a hard time keeping
boost pressure held.  I can get it to peak just fine, but it tends to fall
of to 10-12psi, in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd, especially when doing 'drag
race' type launches when the turbos don't have time to build.
My DSM has no problem holding boost.  I know that is a bigger turbo,
but it's only one and it must feed 2 liters of engine.  These might be
smaller, but they are only feeding 1.5 liters a piece.
I'm hoping to be ablt to get them to hol 17-18psi a little farther
in 1st-3rd gears.

Thanks Guys


John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 08:18:51 1999
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Guys, do not mix up WI and BC related things in one post.

I just wrote a note about the DSBC settings as they seem to be off for the result. Mikael, you remember as we installed
the thing a looong time ago and we found the different behaivour and the better range to set it up. Therefore just follow
Mikaels instruction to cap the solenoid an the one line leading to it from the H connector.

For the boost behaviour, I already was wondering if the reading where peak or steady boost. Peak I guess and it would
be nice to get a boost curve too :) Anyways, increasing Gain my not help and may even result in less steady boost ! I
have also been in this boost region before (not very often, but you know ...) and the results have been in the 13.00 region 
with around 1.25 kg/cm2. The settings have been deadly G40/R60 (with 13Gs) then :((

Regards,
Roger

>I suggest that you disconnect the stock boost solenoid. Just
> disconnect the lines to stock boost solenoid and then plug them
> with a screew and a zip tie.
>
>I had some strange behavior as well before I disconnected the
> stock solenoid. Another good thing is that you will have bigger
> tuning range and less risc for problems with the ECU.
>
>My turbos (9B) are holding boost very good at 1:st and 2:nd but
> in 3:rd gear I notice some "fall back" I don't know if I can
> hold 18 PSI because I haven't tested to go that high and I wont
> try it either before I get some water injection.
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 08:20:18 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: =?iso-8859-1?Q?=27Mikael_=C5kesson=27?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Blitz Installation
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 10:20:09 -0500
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Thanks.

I spray it towards the throttle body.

John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mikael Åkesson [SMTP:vr4@bahnhof.se]
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 9:46 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Blitz Installation
>
> Hi
>
> I suggest that you disconnect the stock boost solenoid. Just disconnect
> the lines to stock boost solenoid and then plug them with a screew and a
> zip tie.
>
> I had some strange behavior as well before I disconnected the stock
> solenoid. Another good thing is that you will have bigger tuning range and
> less risc for problems with the ECU.
>
> My turbos (9B) are holding boost very good at 1:st and 2:nd but in 3:rd
> gear I notice some "fall back" I don't know if I can hold 18 PSI because I
> haven't tested to go that high and I wont try it either before I get some
> water injection.
>
> BTW do you spray the water up or down stream?
>
> /Mikael http://www.3000gt.nu
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Basol, John <jbasol@Carlson.com>
> To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 4:37 PM
> Subject: Team3S: Blitz Installation
>
>
> Hey all,
> I'm wondering if anyone has any info about removing the stock boost
> controll solenoid when using a Blitz DSBC.  Specifically what effects it
> had, and how to do it.  I am noticing that I'm having a hard time keeping
> boost pressure held.  I can get it to peak just fine, but it tends to fall
> of to 10-12psi, in 1st, 2nd, and sometimes 3rd, especially when doing
> 'drag
> race' type launches when the turbos don't have time to build.
> My DSM has no problem holding boost.  I know that is a bigger turbo,
> but it's only one and it must feed 2 liters of engine.  These might be
> smaller, but they are only feeding 1.5 liters a piece.
> I'm hoping to be ablt to get them to hol 17-18psi a little farther
> in 1st-3rd gears.
>
> Thanks Guys
>
>
> John Basol
> System Management Services
> Carlson Companies Inc.
> (612) 212-3714
> (612) 212-1125
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 08:49:53 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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        <jbasol@carlson.com>
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Guys,

Thnaks a lot for the report ! Very good information ... but I'm not happy with your conclusion about the car running rich
all the time and that the fuel system is able to hold up to 1.4kg/cm2

Doing the math behind the scene shows that at 15 psi boost the fuel pressure is at 56psi and the stock pump can flow
about 34 gal/hr then. Assuming that it flows a little bit more in real life as well as fuelk pressure is slightly bigger we will
find a flow of about 36 gal/hr. Calculation the possible horsepower with 93% IDC the resulting horsepower is ... tata
400hp. Now remembering the dyno sessions I was really surprised that this was exactly what we found then on Jims car
(with measuring the IDC)

Now you are running on 19 psi boost, fuel pressure is now above 60 psi resulting in a possible flow of 32 gal/hr. Looking
at the table we see that even with the injectors maxed out over 80% the system cannot flow more due to the pump !
Therefore the flow of the injectors is 423ccm with this FP and this only results in 351hp. Now assuming that the
hardware is better than the blueprints, we can see 360hp then ... 40hp less than with 15psi of boost.

Strange, huh ?? No, because the power curve will be much higher above 3k rpm and the torque is much bigger. But the
hp the system is cpable is lower, i.e. loosing time and lower end-speed.

Therefore, changing the fuel pump to a larger one is the first thing to do is the pump. Running then at 19 psi of boost the
255 ltr/hr pump can deliver 52 gal/hr, enough for the stock 360 injectors. But hey, going back to the calculations shows
that at 19 psi the fuel flow will be 40 gal/h .. with an IDC of 100% !!!! We all know that this is not good for them although
the max power you can get is around 440hp !

The A/F ratio is good and of course the best power is found at the leaner side and the WI system gives you the extra
protection for that (if the readings are really ok in open loop). But the maths are showing that the fuel system is at its
end and you just runned at the edge of it. Changing the pump helps on one side but then the injectors are totally maxed
out.

I agree with all the other conclusions but not with this one. Of course you have seen the real world but try to do this
again with the hp measuring of the G-Tech pro. It is not that accurate there but check out the difference between
15/17/19 psi.

I will provide you all with a link to the Excel table about this fuel stuff tonight :)

Regards,
Roger

>John Basol and I took his car out to test his water injection system and his
>knock indicator last night.  You can check out the results at:
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/5641/water-injection.doc
>
>If you need a notepad version of the file, let me know.  This data is juicy,
>enjoy!!
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 09:11:40 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection data
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 11:11:33 -0500
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I have to agre with you on the conclusion Roger.  I'm sure that although we
were able to make 1.4Kg, the fuel system is way overstressed at that point.
I'm sure the injectors were wide open, and I know they won't survive that
for long, but that was also a peak point.  Pressure was dropping off back
down to 18, 17, 16...,all the way back to 10psi.  I need to be able to get
it to hold boost better to get a better look at what A/F is like under
sustained high boost.

I'm curious to see the formula for computing HP.  Max power will not come on
the rich side, but we all know that we don't seem to have the luxury of
running lean, as our motors need all the cooling help they can get.  I have
also been thinking about what kinds of effects the water has on the A/F
ratio gauge.  Obviously there is oxygen in water.  Anyway.  I do believe
that 18-19psi is sustainable for the 10-12 seconds it would be under that
kind of stress.  I think I'm going to rewire my Fuel tank though with a 4 or
8 guage wire direct to the battery and a relay.  Hmmm.  I need at FP gauge.
Hey Curt, where the heck are we going to mount THAT?!?  :) 


John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.G. [SMTP:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 10:52 AM
> To: Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
> jbasol@carlson.com
> Cc: cgendron@gateway.net
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
>
> Guys,
>
> Thnaks a lot for the report ! Very good information ... but I'm not happy
> with your conclusion about the car running rich
> all the time and that the fuel system is able to hold up to 1.4kg/cm2
>
> Doing the math behind the scene shows that at 15 psi boost the fuel
> pressure is at 56psi and the stock pump can flow
> about 34 gal/hr then. Assuming that it flows a little bit more in real
> life as well as fuelk pressure is slightly bigger we will
> find a flow of about 36 gal/hr. Calculation the possible horsepower with
> 93% IDC the resulting horsepower is ... tata
> 400hp. Now remembering the dyno sessions I was really surprised that this
> was exactly what we found then on Jims car
> (with measuring the IDC)
>
> Now you are running on 19 psi boost, fuel pressure is now above 60 psi
> resulting in a possible flow of 32 gal/hr. Looking
> at the table we see that even with the injectors maxed out over 80% the
> system cannot flow more due to the pump !
> Therefore the flow of the injectors is 423ccm with this FP and this only
> results in 351hp. Now assuming that the
> hardware is better than the blueprints, we can see 360hp then ... 40hp
> less than with 15psi of boost.
>
> Strange, huh ?? No, because the power curve will be much higher above 3k
> rpm and the torque is much bigger. But the
> hp the system is cpable is lower, i.e. loosing time and lower end-speed.
>
> Therefore, changing the fuel pump to a larger one is the first thing to do
> is the pump. Running then at 19 psi of boost the
> 255 ltr/hr pump can deliver 52 gal/hr, enough for the stock 360 injectors.
> But hey, going back to the calculations shows
> that at 19 psi the fuel flow will be 40 gal/h .. with an IDC of 100% !!!!
> We all know that this is not good for them although
> the max power you can get is around 440hp !
>
> The A/F ratio is good and of course the best power is found at the leaner
> side and the WI system gives you the extra
> protection for that (if the readings are really ok in open loop). But the
> maths are showing that the fuel system is at its
> end and you just runned at the edge of it. Changing the pump helps on one
> side but then the injectors are totally maxed
> out.
>
> I agree with all the other conclusions but not with this one. Of course
> you have seen the real world but try to do this
> again with the hp measuring of the G-Tech pro. It is not that accurate
> there but check out the difference between
> 15/17/19 psi.
>
> I will provide you all with a link to the Excel table about this fuel
> stuff tonight :)
>
> Regards,
> Roger
>
> >John Basol and I took his car out to test his water injection system and
> his
> >knock indicator last night.  You can check out the results at:
> >http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/5641/water-injection.doc
> >
> >If you need a notepad version of the file, let me know.  This data is
> juicy,
> >enjoy!!
> __________________________
>
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo
> . going the wet way now !
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 09:14:03 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection data
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 11:13:54 -0500
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Sorry guys that was suposed to be rewire my fuel PUMP

John Basol
System Management Services
Carlson Companies Inc.
(612) 212-3714
(612) 212-1125



> -----Original Message-----
> From: Basol, John [SMTP:jbasol@carlson.com]
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 11:12 AM
> To: 'R.G.'; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection data
>
> I have to agre with you on the conclusion Roger.  I'm sure that although
> we
> were able to make 1.4Kg, the fuel system is way overstressed at that
> point.
> I'm sure the injectors were wide open, and I know they won't survive that
> for long, but that was also a peak point.  Pressure was dropping off back
> down to 18, 17, 16...,all the way back to 10psi.  I need to be able to get
> it to hold boost better to get a better look at what A/F is like under
> sustained high boost.
>
> I'm curious to see the formula for computing HP.  Max power will not come
> on
> the rich side, but we all know that we don't seem to have the luxury of
> running lean, as our motors need all the cooling help they can get.  I
> have
> also been thinking about what kinds of effects the water has on the A/F
> ratio gauge.  Obviously there is oxygen in water.  Anyway.  I do believe
> that 18-19psi is sustainable for the 10-12 seconds it would be under that
> kind of stress.  I think I'm going to rewire my Fuel tank though with a 4
> or
> 8 guage wire direct to the battery and a relay.  Hmmm.  I need at FP
> gauge.
> Hey Curt, where the heck are we going to mount THAT?!?  :) 
>
>
> John Basol
> System Management Services
> Carlson Companies Inc.
> (612) 212-3714
> (612) 212-1125
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: R.G. [SMTP:robby@freesurf.ch]
> > Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 10:52 AM
> > To: Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
> > jbasol@carlson.com
> > Cc: cgendron@gateway.net
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
> >
> > Guys,
> >
> > Thnaks a lot for the report ! Very good information ... but I'm not
> happy
> > with your conclusion about the car running rich
> > all the time and that the fuel system is able to hold up to 1.4kg/cm2
> >
> > Doing the math behind the scene shows that at 15 psi boost the fuel
> > pressure is at 56psi and the stock pump can flow
> > about 34 gal/hr then. Assuming that it flows a little bit more in real
> > life as well as fuelk pressure is slightly bigger we will
> > find a flow of about 36 gal/hr. Calculation the possible horsepower with
> > 93% IDC the resulting horsepower is ... tata
> > 400hp. Now remembering the dyno sessions I was really surprised that
> this
> > was exactly what we found then on Jims car
> > (with measuring the IDC)
> >
> > Now you are running on 19 psi boost, fuel pressure is now above 60 psi
> > resulting in a possible flow of 32 gal/hr. Looking
> > at the table we see that even with the injectors maxed out over 80% the
> > system cannot flow more due to the pump !
> > Therefore the flow of the injectors is 423ccm with this FP and this only
> > results in 351hp. Now assuming that the
> > hardware is better than the blueprints, we can see 360hp then ... 40hp
> > less than with 15psi of boost.
> >
> > Strange, huh ?? No, because the power curve will be much higher above 3k
> > rpm and the torque is much bigger. But the
> > hp the system is cpable is lower, i.e. loosing time and lower end-speed.
> >
> > Therefore, changing the fuel pump to a larger one is the first thing to
> do
> > is the pump. Running then at 19 psi of boost the
> > 255 ltr/hr pump can deliver 52 gal/hr, enough for the stock 360
> injectors.
> > But hey, going back to the calculations shows
> > that at 19 psi the fuel flow will be 40 gal/h .. with an IDC of 100%
> !!!!
> > We all know that this is not good for them although
> > the max power you can get is around 440hp !
> >
> > The A/F ratio is good and of course the best power is found at the
> leaner
> > side and the WI system gives you the extra
> > protection for that (if the readings are really ok in open loop). But
> the
> > maths are showing that the fuel system is at its
> > end and you just runned at the edge of it. Changing the pump helps on
> one
> > side but then the injectors are totally maxed
> > out.
> >
> > I agree with all the other conclusions but not with this one. Of course
> > you have seen the real world but try to do this
> > again with the hp measuring of the G-Tech pro. It is not that accurate
> > there but check out the difference between
> > 15/17/19 psi.
> >
> > I will provide you all with a link to the Excel table about this fuel
> > stuff tonight :)
> >
> > Regards,
> > Roger
> >
> > >John Basol and I took his car out to test his water injection system
> and
> > his
> > >knock indicator last night.  You can check out the results at:
> > >http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/5641/water-injection.doc
> > >
> > >If you need a notepad version of the file, let me know.  This data is
> > juicy,
> > >enjoy!!
> > __________________________
> >
> > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> > 93'3000GT TwinTurbo
> > . going the wet way now !
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 09:30:49 1999
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:30:42 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
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"Basol, John" wrote:
>
> I have to agre with you on the conclusion Roger.  I'm sure that although we
> were able to make 1.4Kg, the fuel system is way overstressed at that point.
> I'm sure the injectors were wide open, and I know they won't survive that
> for long, but that was also a peak point.  Pressure was dropping off back
> down to 18, 17, 16...,all the way back to 10psi.  I need to be able to get
> it to hold boost better to get a better look at what A/F is like under
> sustained high boost.

This is due to the maximum CFM capability of the 9B turbos.  Above 4500
RPM or so, the 9B's can't sustain 17 psi, and by 7000 RPM they can only
sustain about 10 psi.  Your boost is consistent with other member's
findings.  You can do the math if you want more accurate figures...I
think Roger had posted the formula a day or two ago for CFM required by
our engine at a given psi and RPM.

By the way, great data on the water injection.

--
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 09:52:16 1999
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        Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com, jbasol@carlson.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Water Injection data
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 09:52:50 -0700
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Roger...

Would you send me a copy of the Excel table as well? I know we agreed not to
post attachments, so perhaps you could hang it off your website? I'm sure
there are many of us who would like to do quick calculations (if I
understand what the table will do).

For example, I'd like a SOTP (seat of the pants) estimate for IDC with my
560 injectors, a 90 gph fuel pump and 15G turbos under WOT at 6500 rpm. I'd
like to think I'm going to be "OK" up to 22-23 lbs of boost (but I blew off
the hose on my front turbo last night...WHY didn't they design the turbos
with a lip, so the clamps would seat behind something and STAY ON?).

THANKS (Curt, John and Roger) for the great thread on water injection!!!

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: R.G. [mailto:robby@freesurf.ch]
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 8:52 AM
To: Curt.Gendron@westgroup.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com;
jbasol@carlson.com
Cc: cgendron@gateway.net
Subject: Re: Team3S: Water Injection data
<snip>

I will provide you all with a link to the Excel table about this fuel stuff
tonight :)

Regards, Roger

<end of snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 10:05:12 1999
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From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Whoops!!  Sorry, that was supposed to be private.  My apologies.
--
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 10:23:27 1999
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From: "Phil Johnson" <dangerwit@mn.mediaone.net>
To: "'Team3S'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Differences DSBC vs SSBC
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 12:23:24 -0500
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I'm wondering what the technical differences are between these two units.
Obviously, one less solenoid, for starters, and less boost, but what else is
there?  I'm in the market for a BC, but I'd like to know what's what.

(Anyone seen less than $450 for Blitz?  Is there a brand other than Blitz
that you'd recommend?)

Thank you,
*Phil

Phillip Johnson
Ceridian Employer Services
612-894-3224 (w)
888-415-4894 (pager)


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 12:05 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Re: Team3S Admin - Was: BOUNCE
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com:Non-membersubmissionfrom [Ken Middaugh
<Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>]


Whoops!!  Sorry, that was supposed to be private.  My apologies.
--
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 11:00:41 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Differences DSBC vs SSBC
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Robocar in California will sell you one for about $390 plus shipping.
www.robocar.com ask for Shawn Morales. Use my name and tell him I'm the
guy in the red VR4 that was in last Saturday. I've already sent 2 other
people there for their DSBC.

I am not affiliated with Robocar and receive no kickbacks. I just bought
my DSBC there at a good price.

Bruce

Phil Johnson wrote:
>
> I'm wondering what the technical differences are between these two units.
> Obviously, one less solenoid, for starters, and less boost, but what else is
> there?  I'm in the market for a BC, but I'd like to know what's what.
>
> (Anyone seen less than $450 for Blitz?  Is there a brand other than Blitz
> that you'd recommend?)
>
> Thank you,
> *Phil
>
> Phillip Johnson
> Ceridian Employer Services
> 612-894-3224 (w)
> 888-415-4894 (pager)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> [mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Ken Middaugh
> Sent: Thursday, June 24, 1999 12:05 PM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Re: Team3S Admin - Was: BOUNCE
> stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com:Non-membersubmissionfrom [Ken Middaugh
> <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>]
>
> Whoops!!  Sorry, that was supposed to be private.  My apologies.
> --
> Hang up and drive!
>
> Ken Middaugh
> General Atomics
> San Diego
> (619) 455-4510
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 12:40:11 1999
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Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 14:40:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: 1 on 1 on 1 Tire Question (My last one on this subject!)
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(Editor's Note: I can get wordy!)

OK, I've narrowed my choice down to three selections.  Here are the
details:
Size: 245/50R16
Tire Rack Prices, including s/h and tax:
Firestone SZ50, 641.79
Firestone SVX, 553.97
Goodrich VR4, 532.20

I'd "like" to go with the SZ50's, but that $100 difference is a bit
daunting.  So here are my questions:

Have any of you done "A-B" comparisons of the VR4 vs. the SVX?
Have any of you done "A-B" comparisons of the VR4 vs. the SZ50?

I currently have a set of 225/55R16 VR4's on my Stealth, and have been
quite happy with their grip and tread life.  Is the step up to the SZ50
going to give me much improvement?  Or is the fact I'm changing to 245/50
going to be more noticeable than switching between brands.

Please limit the discussion to these three flavors of tires.  It was
difficult enough for me to narrow it down to these, please don't confuse
me with more choices.  ;)

Thanks.

Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
93 Stealth ES

How many roads must a man travel down before he admits he is lost?

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 14:18:48 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Electric Supercharger details (long, but pls read)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 14:18:25 -0700
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Ok, a while back, someone mentioned the E-RAM on one of the lists, and I've
been looking into it.  http://www.electricsupercharger.com/  for those who
never saw it or don't remember.  Bottom line:  Supercharger powered by your
electrical system that generates 1 psi of pressure at the intake and spools
up in .1 seconds.  It is activated by a switch that closes when you hit WOT
(you install the switch, so you theoretically could have it turn on whenever
you want).  They guarantee a 4%-6% increase in HP at the wheels, or they'll
refund your money and 1/2 of your dyno fee.  There is also a dual stage
E-RAM that produces 2psi (8-12% more HP).  They run about $300 and $600
respectively.  I've talked with one of their product engineers, and it seems
like a pretty cool idea, and the product seems pretty solid.  By the end of
July, I should be able to be the "guinea pig" for those in the group who are
interested.  Thus I have some questions:

Anyone who has knowledge of the intake and/or electrical system of cars in
general, or especially information specific to our cars, please read on!

Two main issues: 1) Installation
2) Demand on our electrical
system



A) Issue 1: Installation:
<Background for those unfamiliar with the NA 3000GT under the hood>
I have the Non-Turbo DOHC (222HP) engine.  It looks similar to the turbo
3000GT engine in the following pictures (if someone has an underhood shot of
a NA, please let me know):  <Thanks, John, for the TT pics>
http://user.icx.net/~adams/91_3000GT_engine_04.jpg

http://user.icx.net/~adams/3000GT_engine_done.jpg

The TB is in the middle rear of the engine bay, attached to the left side of
the intake plenum The only relevant difference between this picture and the
NA is that where you see a Y-pipe from the TB to the 2 intake hoses, the NA
just has a single 3" tube from the TB to the MAS and airbox (black thing on
left between strut tower and fuse box with blue writing)  The intake tube is
ribbed, rubberized tubing that comes out of the TB (round 3") like the
picture, takes a 90 degree turn toward the front of the car, goes about
1.5', and takes a leftward 90 degree turn (slightly downward, too) and
attaches to the MAS/airbox (oval opening about 2" by 4").  The MAS must be
connected for the ECU to calculate IDC, and it has these oval openings,
rather than the round 3", so it makes elimination of the stock intake tubing
difficult.  This also appears to eliminate the option of using the E-RAM kit
with the K&N filter already installed (I plan to replace the airbox with an
open element filter anyway).
<End of background>


Options I've thought of:

1) Cut up the straight portion of the stock intake tubing (running
where the Y-pipe is in this picture), and install the E-RAM between the MAS
and the TB.  I think this would work, but I'd have to butcher the stock
intake tube (rather not do that, but...I guess I could) and I'd still have a
rather restrictive and twisty intake tube.

2) Eliminate the battery(directly left of TB opening, gold in 2nd
picture) in the engine compartment (dry cell in trunk via 4ga cables), and
run a custom tube out of the TB about 6" to the left, bend it 90 degrees
toward the front of the car, install e-ram in-line, figure out some way to
attach the MAS after the e-ram (dumb oval opening again), and slap a K&N
FIPK on after the MAS.  This would result in a cleaner intake path with only
one bend, and the filter would be pointing toward the front of the car,
sitting about where the Y-pipe connects to the two smaller pipes in the
picture.  This option, while more difficult, would probably yield better
performance.  I'd still have to deal with the oval shape of the connections
to the MAS housing, though, and I'm not sure how to deal with that...ideas,
anyone?

3) Someone got another idea?



B) Issue 2: Electrical Demand
Operating current: single 40A  double 80-100A
Peak current: single 65A double 130A

With the engine on, the device should never draw more than a few
amps over the steady state upon startup; the peak numbers are for beginning
with 0 airflow.  I think our alternator (stock) is a 140A, but someone told
me they thought it was 110A.  Anyone know definitively?  I don't want to
trash my alternator/voltage regulator, and I figure I should have some power
left over for those non-essential things like spark plugs and headlights:)
I'm toying with putting a 1F or 1.5F capacitor in there, so the current
surge should have minimal effects on the rest of the electronics.  With the
dual-stage (Super E-RAM), is it realistic for a car with a 110-140A
alternator to power one of those things without having to shut off
everything else before using it?  I like the idea of more power (dual
e-ram), but I also want my car driveable(better to go with the single?)  I
know that the battery can supply the extra current not provided by the
alternator if the total current draw of the car exceeds the capability of
the alternator, but is this overly bad for the electrical system?  In know
the starter motor can draw several hundred amperes with the alternator off,
but this is relatively infrequent. 
Given the above, is the option of eliminating the wet cell battery
mentioned in Option 2 above even an option?  Would 2 dry cell batteries be
necessary if I had a stereo in there?

Any comments/suggestions would be much appreciated!!
Thanks!
--Erik

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 56k mi  stock + SZ50 245/50/ZR16 tires
------                                             ----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here one  will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality here and now."   
                                              --T. S. Eliot
-------------------------------------------------------------
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 14:42:22 1999
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From: "Gross, Erik" <erik.gross@intel.com>
To: "'Starnet 3Si Mailing List'" <stealth@starnet.net>,
        "'Dragnet 3S Mailing List'" <stealth@dragnet.com>
Subject: Team3S: Replace spark plug wires at 60K?
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 14:41:58 -0700
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Dealer says they don't need to be replaced at 60K, and I know I've heard
many of you talk about replacing the wires at 60K, mainly on the TTs.  So
with my NA, should I bother to replace them at 60K, or are the old ones
still fine?  And if I should replace them, then stock($53@Norco)or
Magancore($129@Nexus)?  I don't mind paying a little more for better
parts/performance, but are the Magnacores significantly better than stock
for a NA?  $80 isn't quite pocket change...:)

--Erik

------                                             ----------
Erik Gross                                         DuPont, WA
'95 Pearl White 3000GT 56k mi  stock + SZ50 245/50/ZR16 tires
------                                             ----------
"To believe in the supernatural is not simply to believe that
after living a successful, material, and fairly virtuous
life here one will continue to exist in the best-possible
substitute for this world, or that after living a starved
and stunted life here one  will be compensated with all the
good things one has gone without: it is to believe that the
supernatural is the greatest reality here and now."   
                                              --T. S. Eliot
-------------------------------------------------------------

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 15:00:10 1999
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To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <01C843625423D211AC3F00A0C969E89001336BF2@orsmsx35.jf.intel.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Electric Supercharger
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 14:56:46 -0700
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you may obtain equal or better results by applying snake oil to your tail
pipe.

an electric motor at 40A will not give you even 1HP increase. (the
additional load on your alternator will probably cost you few HP)

40A is about 1/2 HP. you need at least 10 HP to give any noticable boost to
your engine. That is a power requirement of over 1000A (considering these
devices are not 100% efficient).

even TurboDyne electric turbochargers of several hundred amperes can only
give small boost to 1.2 liter engines and that is at low rpm.

I consider this product at the same catagory as magnets that you attach over
your fuel lines for ionization of gasoline atoms (sic) and solid state
turbocharger, which is something like a gel pack that you install inside
your air filter.




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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 15:15:10 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Electric Supercharger details (long, but pls read)
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Sounds like the infamous Kirby vacuum cleaner installation all over again.

As I recall, we planned to mount a big Kirby at the rear, to suck exhaust
gases out of the engine and make the turbos spool up faster.

Oughta work about as good as this silly electric supercharger.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 15:22:20 1999
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Good idea, Roger. You have got me thinking. I was thinking about
mounting a single turbo at the place where the front and rear
"downpipes" come together. Then, the intake could be situated so that
you could run an inlet straight up, and put a small hood scoop, and an
airbox, witha  K&N drop-in filter, so the filter will be mounted flush
with the hood. The outlet could be routed to a single small or
front-mount intercooler, and the return could be made from.....That's
where I can't finish the idea. The MAS could be mounted right below the
airbox, and it would get a good reading. Any custom fabricators out
there? Any ideas on a rubber or otherwise tube that'll get the charge
air from the intercooler to the TB?
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 16:14:34 1999
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Ok, Ok, hang on a minute here...

<snipping numerous comments about snake oil, Kirby vacuums, ionization of
gasoline molecules and waving magic wands :) >

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Murat Okcuoglu [mailto:murat@ashacorp.com]
>
> an electric motor at 40A will not give you even 1HP increase. (the
> additional load on your alternator will probably cost you few HP)
>
> you need at least 10 HP to give any noticable boost to your engine.
> That is a power requirement of over 1000A

> even TurboDyne electric turbochargers of several hundred
> amperes can only
> give small boost to 1.2 liter engines and that is at low rpm.



Ok, you had me for a second - "what was I thinking- I must be a moron!"

1HP = 745W = 13.5V * 55A

So if the engine were powered by pushing air into the cylinders, this would
mean we'd need 551A of current for 10%HP increase if the E-RAM were 100%
efficient.  Boy, did I feel like a moron...for a second.

But the engine is *not* powered (directly) by pushing air into it,
it's powered by the combustion of the gasoline in the cylinders which used
the available air in the system.  If your theory were all there was to it,
conventional (engine-driven) superchargers *wouldn't* work!  i.e. engine
expends x HP to drive supercharger compressor, resulting in more airflow
into the engine, but if the increased HP resulting from the supercharger was
equal to or less than the HP required to drive the compressor, this wouldn't
work, would it?

So the real equation would look something like this
(pardon me if this isn't exactly correct, but as best as I remember from
chemistry and physics...and yes they're assuming ideal combustion and
simplified a bit):

Energy expended: 100A * 13.5V = 1350W = 1.8HP
(some of this may come from the stored energy of the battery,
but...)

Output Power(normally):
1.000 * (# O2 and gasoline molecules combusted/sec) * some constant
constant is related to the stored energy in the C,H, and O bonds in
gas
Output Power (with E-RAM):
assuming ambient pressure of 14psi and E-RAM generating 2psi
(2/14 =  14.3%)
(1.143) * (# O2 and gasoline molecules combusted/sec) * some constant

This means the resultant power could theoretically be as high as 14.3%
higher than stock.  Due to engine inefficiencies, 10% (70% efficient)
doesn't seem that far-fetched.  So you expend 1.8HP and have a net gain 10%
(22HP).  They've got dyno sheets on their website...I know these could be
faked, but what if they're legit?  The power gained is the result of the
additional *fuel* able to be burned with the increased airflow, which
doesn't have a 1:1 ratio with the power required to compress the air at the
intake. 

If someone more versed in chem and physics than I can point out a hole in
the above argument, please do!  And if the above is correct, then anyone
have any thoughts on the 2 issues I mentioned in the first post?

--Erik














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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 16:24:43 1999
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Brad,

I haven't had much sucess with the RPS clutchs either.  I have eaten 2
of them up in less than 10,000 miles.  In fact the 1st one went so quick
Rob replaced it under warranty.  Now the replacement is gone.. I am
going to have to go a diffeent route this time.

Sully

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 16:33:01 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 01:31:15 +0200
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As promised here the link to the Excel sheet I've put together :

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/Injector_calculations.xls

Short description :

You can change the values in the top three lines. Just enter an IDC of 100%
and see the figures changing for the injector.

The values under the IDC% header represent the possible hp retrieved by the
given amount of fuel.

The individual pages are containing the fuel flow at the specific boost with
the injector at the desired IDC and the resulting hp.

The injectors are rated at 43.5 psi fuel pressure.

The pump information was taken from the Walboro pump site.

Example 1 :

- 360cc , 15 psi
=> 56 psi fuel pres.
=> 408ccm/inj.
=> 403hp @ 95% IDC
=> 37 gal/hr fuel flow
=> stock pump delivers 33 gal/hr
=> fuel pump too small (would be ok as the real figures are higher)

Example 2 :

- 560cc , 17 psi
=> 58 psi fuel pres.
=> 647ccm/inj.
=> 537hp @ 80% IDC
=> 49.3 gal/hr fuel flow
=> 255 ltr/hr pump delivers 51 gal/hr
=> system is ok and is capable of 537 hp at 17 psi
     (due to dumping fuel in for preventing detonation the hp figure will be
way below 500hp)

You can also change the injector size by entering a new value in the field
with the yellow background and red figures.

Let me know if there is anything wrong or missing :)
Please feel free to distribute or change the contents on your wish but do
not change a formula and leave my name in there ;-)

Regards
Roger
93'3000GT TT (WI System arrived today)

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 16:40:14 1999
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From: "Murat Okcuoglu" <murat@ashacorp.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: elecric blower
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 1999 16:36:46 -0700
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OK, I guess I was not clear.

the HP figures I stated are for power required to compress air to
significant pressures at sufficient volumes. They are not power =
conversion
for the engine. Think about how much power is required to run a belt =
driven
supercharger?

I am certain that our 3 liter engine will overflow that axial fan right
above idle.

an engineer who used to work for me now develops the real versions of =
these
devices.

with the help of several batteries and inverters and associated stuff of
100+lbs and trunk size volume, the net benefit is slight power increase =
at
low (1500 to 2500) rpms and some emission reduction for diesels under =
hard
acceleration.

Think about it, if there was any hope, why would not every vehicle on =
the
road have one? In mass production, those devices should cost less than a
power antenna.


------=_NextPart_000_006B_01BEBE5F.C00B5010
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>OK, I guess I was not clear.<BR><BR>the HP figures I =
stated=20
are for power required to compress air to<BR>significant pressures at =
sufficient=20
volumes. They are not power conversion<BR>for the engine. Think about =
how much=20
power is required to run a belt driven<BR>supercharger?<BR><BR>I am =
certain that=20
our 3 liter engine will overflow that axial fan right<BR>above =
idle.<BR><BR>an=20
engineer who used to work for me now develops the real versions of=20
these<BR>devices.<BR><BR>with the help of several batteries and =
inverters and=20
associated stuff of<BR>100+lbs and trunk size volume, the net benefit is =
slight=20
power increase at<BR>low (1500 to 2500) rpms and some emission reduction =
for=20
diesels under hard<BR>acceleration.<BR><BR>Think about it, if there was =
any=20
hope, why would not every vehicle on the<BR>road have one? In mass =
production,=20
those devices should cost less than a<BR>power=20
antenna.<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_006B_01BEBE5F.C00B5010--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Thu Jun 24 17:04:43 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: elecric blower
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-----Original Message-----
From: Murat Okcuoglu [mailto:murat@ashacorp.com]

I am certain that our 3 liter engine will overflow that axial fan right
above idle.

an engineer who used to work for me now develops the real versions of these
devices.

with the help of several batteries and inverters and associated stuff of
100+lbs and trunk size volume, the net benefit is slight power increase at
low (1500 to 2500) rpms and some emission reduction for diesels under hard
acceleration.

Think about it, if there was any hope, why would not every vehicle on the
road have one? In mass production, those devices should cost less than a
power antenna.
--------------------------------


Ok, I'm not trying to get into a heated argument or step on any toes here,
but I want to understand why this blower can't work.  As for the engine
overflowing the fan, I don't know the rate at which our engines pull air in,
but is 350CFM a reasonable number for a NA 3.0L DOHC?  If so, then this is
from their website:

"The e-RAM is capable of producing an impressive flow of 750 cfm in free
air. For an example, a 4 liter engine draws about 350 CFM at 6000 rpm. The
e-RAM easily produces that airflow with plenty to spare!"

and also

"Unlike others that claim to work, but have no dyno proof, we have installed
this unit on 4 cylinder engines through V8s and have made multiple runs on a
chassis dyno (Dynojet 248e) with and without the supercharger running. On a
3.2 liter engine with a dyno tested base of 200 horsepower, gains throughout
the entire RPM range were from 8-13 HP for an  average increase of 4-6%!
(Dyno run data with graphs are provided at our web site:
www.electricsupercharger.com)"

When they say stuff like this, and have the graphs that indicate their
claims, I at least want to find out more about it...  I definitely don't
have all the answers(that's why I'm asking questions:), but it sounds like a
good idea, if it works.  And they seem to provide proof that it does.  I'm
definitely not what most would call an "impulse buyer," nor do I make
uninformed expenditures of hundreds of dollars.  At least on the surface
this company seems to have something, an I want to find out what's
underneath.  I'm going to check the company out, because their guarantee is
pretty good.  If I try it out and it doesn't give me 4-6% more HP across the
board, then I can send it back for a full refund of everything but the
shipping, AND I'm only out 1/2 my dyno fee ($55 for 2 runs).  At $50 for
shipping and 1/2 of the dyno, I think I'd be willing to bite if the
company's legit.

--Erik
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 02:10:28 1999
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>can't argue the fact that the boost gauge pegged 1.3 to 1.39 and the A/F
>gauge was still in the rich area and the car was pulling strong.

Sure, but how about any unburnt fuel and therefore the O2 sensor causes to see
rich ??

>The water that is being injected is a 50/50 split between water and alcohol.
>The alcohol is also acting like fuel.  Therefore adding to the combusion.

A mixture of water and alcohol is only necessary in colder regions to prevent
the mixture from freezing. If sprayed in the mixture takes up the heat energy
from the air but the alcohol does not act as additional fuel but it seems to
increase the efficiency of the WI. I try to find better information on the
mixture thing :)

>I've got one other quick question on your Blitz DSBC installation.  I
>followed your instructions to the T when I installed mine.  Did you cap off
>the stock solinoid when you hooked up the Blitz?

I haven't done this in my initial installation as I had no caps for the solenoid
port handy :) The effect is that the Gain setting will be different for sure as
this is what the stock solenoid does. It is out of the path since a longer time
now :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 02:10:33 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: elecric blower
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> Think about it, if there was any hope, why would not every vehicle on the
> road have one? In mass production, those devices should cost less than a
> power antenna.

And why did Mitsu install such a stupid sized MAS instead of a good flowing
thing ?? Well, let's find out what is behind the ELB stuff with "real" facts !

Airflow is the keyword here. Lets say that the thing would be able to create 1
psi of boost even at 6000 rpm.

The formula without blower is :

182in^3 * 6000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 284 cfm
182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 332 cfm

The formula with blower at 1 psi is :

182in^3 * 6000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1.07 (0.07 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 304 cfm
182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1.07 (0.07 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 355 cfm

Therefore the question is simple :
How much pressure can the ELB produce at 304-355cfm ???

At 7krpm, 1 psi increases air flow by 23cfm in our cars = 7% increase
Looking at the fuel table we see that 1 psi increase in the lower area is
capable to a 4 hp increase from the addtional fuel pressure what is about 2%.

We therefore "can expect" 7% more fuel due to the more air and 2% more energy
due to the increased fuel pressure. But this cannot be counted together as the
2% figure only tells us what the fuel system is capable of and for sure the NA
system is not at its end with 1 psi of boost :)

Therefore lets say we can expect 6% (7% * 0.9, efficiency) more horsepower
=> 222 * 1.06 = 235.2

Now, back to power consumption : 40A * 14.1V (charging voltage) => 564W = 0.8hp
Therefore, this gives us a final gain of :

=> 235.2 - 222 = 13.32
=> 13.32 - 0.8 = 12.52 hp (5.6%) increase

Ok, this is again mathematical stuff but a good base to start. No negative
things like snake oil, gel packs or any Kirby stuff, just REAL figures and
calculations.

Of course, the possible 5.6% power increase is based upon the asumption that the
ELB does deliver the appropriate amount of air at the specified pressure ! If
they do, 235.2 hp are possible !

Please remember, not the ELB creates the more power but the fuel does ! But it
helps to increase the necessary air flow that results in more fuel to be burnt.

BTW, at least one of such systems have already been installed in an NA but I
can't remember who it was :( There was also a website with the installation but
my desk is currently covered with math and other books :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 02:10:41 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Differences DSBC vs SSBC
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>I'm wondering what the technical differences are between these two units.
>Obviously, one less solenoid, for starters, and less boost, but what else
>is there?  I'm in the market for a BC, but I'd like to know what's what.

The difference is indeed the solenoids at first and only one of this tiny things
cannot handle more than 1.2bars of boost. Then there are only two settings
storeable, no boost gauge, no peak, no scramble, etc. IMHO, with a price below
$400 the DSBC is one of the best choice and the SSBC has never been an option on
the market !

>(Anyone seen less than $450 for Blitz?  Is there a brand other than Blitz
>that you'd recommend?)

- Apexi S-AVCR
- HK$ EVC (the one with barometric correction)

Regards,
Roger
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 04:53:33 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: elecric blower
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 06:53:27 -0500
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"Unlike others that claim to work, but have no dyno proof, we have
installed
this unit on 4 cylinder engines through V8s and have made multiple
runs on a
chassis dyno (Dynojet 248e) with and without the supercharger
running. On a
3.2 liter engine with a dyno tested base of 200 horsepower, gains
throughout
the entire RPM range were from 8-13 HP for an  average increase of
4-6%!
(Dyno run data with graphs are provided at our web site:
www.electricsupercharger.com)"


This is just a thought, but spending $3-400 to acquire 8-13hp doesn't sound
like a very big HP/$ gain.  The K&N air filters are claimed to provide about
a 10hp difference.  Now, I never ran my car on a dyno before and after the
installation of the K&N to know what the net result was, but couldn't really
feel any difference because of the K&N, and I've put them on 2 cars, with
the same result both times.  For $3-400 I want to feel what I paid for.

For $500 a memeber of our local 3S club purchased a nitrous oxide kit for
his SL.  I helped him install it, starting first with the 50hp jets.  It was
feelable, but not what I would call impressive.  We then switched the jets
out to the 75hp jets, feeling comfortable that everything was hooked up
right and working well.  That gave it a bit more.  Now in theory he should
have been in excess of 300hp, as his 222hp motor has now been fitted with a
K&N and a 75hp nitrous kit.  That was what I would consider a noticeable
power increase, and it still wasn't like being shot out of gun when he hit
the button.  But I guess maybe I had high expectations for what the nitrous
would do.

I guess my whole point would be that you may find that although your
legitimate dyno run produced 8-13 more hp, your results from the 'Butt-Dyno'
might not impress you to the $300 mark.  Food for thought.  :)

-John



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 07:02:09 1999
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>Ok, I'm not trying to get into a heated argument or step on any toes here,
>but I want to understand why this blower can't work.

No, the thing works indeed and is proven by some installations, but it is not very cost effective and some cut&paste
within the intake path must be done :)

>but is 350CFM a reasonable number for a NA 3.0L DOHC?

~355cfm at 7000rpm

>"The e-RAM is capable of producing an impressive flow of 750 cfm in free air.

The important figure must be xxx cfm @ 1 psi. This mumber is what we need !

BTW, one of my Camaro buddies installed a TeZett electric fan (another ELB) in his 3.4 liter and felt a slight
improvement and especially a better throttle response. It is activated above a specific rpm.

>3.2 liter engine with a dyno tested base of 200 horsepower, gains throughout
>the entire RPM range were from 8-13 HP for an  average increase of 4-6%!

Yes, sure. My maths do show that this is possible and I believe you'll find some more ponies at the wheels on the NAs.
Everybody who claims that it "can't" work should try it out. Fact is, that the air compressed to 1 psi is hotter than
without such a blower and this decreases the possible power a little. But this is mostly compensated by the more fuel
injected and the NAs can handle this.

>I'm definitely not what most would call an "impulse buyer," nor do I make
>uninformed expenditures of hundreds of dollars.

Rich installed a Turbo-Zet in Rommel Dizons car (you're not the Guinea pig :)) and this is what he wrote then :

> I installed a TurboZet (I think this is what you are referring to) on
> Rommel Dizon's NT this summer.  Rommel and I did some G-Tech runs with
> and without the TZ, plus Rommel did some other testing on his own.
> Bottom line: you pay big bux, you get a little more air, perhaps a *tad*
> more response, and a touch better on your times.  The net gain/$ ratio
> were measurable, but pretty darn low.  Results of the TZ experiments
> were posted to Starnet at least twice that I am aware of.  Check the
> archives there for them.

Well, this is what I'd say a little gain around 4-5% but nobody spoke of more to get yet (don't read the Turbo-Zet page...
they want to tell us about a 25% increase, hehe)
Their page can be found at http://www.turbo-zet.com/

>If I try it out and it doesn't give me 4-6% more HP across the
>board, then I can send it back for a full refund of everything but the
>shipping, AND I'm only out 1/2 my dyno fee ($55 for 2 runs).  At $50 for
>shipping and 1/2 of the dyno, I think I'd be willing to bite if the
>company's legit.

Well, just make sure that you don't have to cut any stock parts so you can go back without problems :)

Regards,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 07:57:45 1999
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I'm sorry not give you the formulas and explanations to the Excel sheet I built. Here they are :

BSFC = brake specific fuel consumption. This is how much fuel (in gal) an engine is "consuming" per hp per hour. This is
typicaly between 0.4 and 0.5 for NA cars and 0.5 to 0.6 on turbo cars.

IDC = injector duty cycle. Typically at 80% an injector is getting to be maxed out. Futher 10% should be taken as a
reserve :)

cc/m (injector rating) = lbs/hr * 10.5
lbs/hr = gal/hr * 6

capable hp = (lbs/hr * IDC * #cyl) / (BSFC)  or
capable hp = (cc/m * IDC * #cyl) / (BSFC * 10.5)

pressurised injector flow rate = SQ(new fpr / old fpr) * old flow rate

The field references with the $ signs in the fomula are fixed references to that field. This means, copying the field to another
place does keep the field reference. This is spreadsheet specific and has nothing to do with the formulas :)

Please feel free to ask anything you like or maybe what you want to have added to it :)

Regards,
Roger (playing with water pump at the moment)
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 08:05:40 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 10:05:30 -0500
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It would appear that this formula is pretty reliant on an accurate BSFC
value.  Where do we get this value for our cars?  And is the value the same
at all levels of boost, and all values of temp?  We all now that on a nice
cool evening the car makes more power, but is it consuming more fuel?  I
doubt it.  Just some thoughts.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.G. [SMTP:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 1999 10:00 AM
> To: jbasol@carlson.com; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
>
> I'm sorry not give you the formulas and explanations to the Excel sheet I
> built. Here they are :
>
> BSFC = brake specific fuel consumption. This is how much fuel (in gal) an
> engine is "consuming" per hp per hour. This is
> typicaly between 0.4 and 0.5 for NA cars and 0.5 to 0.6 on turbo cars.
>
> IDC = injector duty cycle. Typically at 80% an injector is getting to be
> maxed out. Futher 10% should be taken as a
> reserve :)
>
> cc/m (injector rating) = lbs/hr * 10.5
> lbs/hr = gal/hr * 6
>
> capable hp = (lbs/hr * IDC * #cyl) / (BSFC)  or
> capable hp = (cc/m * IDC * #cyl) / (BSFC * 10.5)
>
> pressurised injector flow rate = SQ(new fpr / old fpr) * old flow rate
>
> The field references with the $ signs in the fomula are fixed references
> to that field. This means, copying the field to another
> place does keep the field reference. This is spreadsheet specific and has
> nothing to do with the formulas :)
>
> Please feel free to ask anything you like or maybe what you want to have
> added to it :)
>
> Regards,
> Roger (playing with water pump at the moment)
> __________________________
>
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo
> . going the wet way now !
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 08:11:59 1999
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"R.G." wrote:
>
> >I'm wondering what the technical differences are between these two units.
> >Obviously, one less solenoid, for starters, and less boost, but what else
> >is there?  I'm in the market for a BC, but I'd like to know what's what.
>
> The difference is indeed the solenoids at first and only one of this tiny things
> cannot handle more than 1.2bars of boost. Then there are only two settings
> storeable, no boost gauge, no peak, no scramble, etc. IMHO, with a price below
> $400 the DSBC is one of the best choice and the SSBC has never been an option on
> the market !

Why would maximum boost pressure be a function of the solonoid?  All the
solonoid has to do is vent the hose to shoot pressure through the roof!
I would think the solonoid would impact responsiveness and perhaps
overboost management.

--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 08:14:00 1999
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>The K&N air filters are claimed to provide about
>a 10hp difference.  Now, I never ran my car on a dyno before and after the
>installation of the K&N to know what the net result was, but couldn't really
>feel any difference because of the K&N, and I've put them on 2 cars, with
>the same result both times.  For $3-400 I want to feel what I paid for.

Exactly my words ! I agree 150% with you :)

>That gave it a bit more.  Now in theory he should
>have been in excess of 300hp, as his 222hp motor has now been fitted with a
>K&N and a 75hp nitrous kit

Wow, I think this should definitely be noticeable but have you also increased fuel pressure and flow to provide the right
amount of fuel ? Or is it a wet system that combines fuel and nos ?

I once drove a Firebird T/A with a 100hp shot and the thing almost scared the hell out of me. I have a modified Z28 too
and there was a huge/enormous difference when the throttle hit WOT. I was definitely addicted to this power :)))

>legitimate dyno run produced 8-13 more hp, your results from the 'Butt-Dyno'
>might not impress you to the $300 mark.  Food for thought.  :)

Absolutely right :)

Regards,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 08:43:53 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: NOS - was: elecric blower
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 10:43:47 -0500
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.G. [SMTP:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 1999 10:16 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: elecric blower
>
>
> >That gave it a bit more.  Now in theory he should
> >have been in excess of 300hp, as his 222hp motor has now been fitted with
> a
> >K&N and a 75hp nitrous kit
>
> Wow, I think this should definitely be noticeable but have you also
> increased fuel pressure and flow to provide the right
> amount of fuel ? Or is it a wet system that combines fuel and nos ?
>
It was a wet system.  It did give a give a good power increase, but
felt more like a TT with 5psi of boost, instead of 11

> I once drove a Firebird T/A with a 100hp shot and the thing almost scared
> the hell out of me. I have a modified Z28 too
> and there was a huge/enormous difference when the throttle hit WOT. I was
> definitely addicted to this power :)))
>
Remember you were starting with 300 ponies and ending up with 400.
400 ponies in a light rear drive is gonna be kick upside the head!  :)

If it didn't involve so much work to put in a 75 or 100 hp shot, I
think it would be a blast to try this on a TT.  :)  Maybe someday when my
other project is done I'll start playing with the Stealth some more.  :)

-John

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 08:46:03 1999
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From: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>
To: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>, <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
References: <00c101bebe9b$0b8dc000$3618e6c2@roger> <37734826.348FC670@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Differences DSBC vs SSBC
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 08:42:01 -0700
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> The difference is indeed the solenoids at first and only one of this tiny things
> cannot handle more than 1.2bars of boost. Then there are only two settings
> storeable, no boost gauge, no peak, no scramble, etc. IMHO, with a price below
> $400 the DSBC is one of the best choice and the SSBC has never been an option on
> the market !
===================================================================
Rodger, this may come as a suprise to you but a lot of us folk don't plan on running
more than 1 BAR ;-)  I use the SSBC on my current setup [ stock fuel setup and turbos ]
and find it more than sufficient. The only time I've used the second setting is when I
accidentally hit the switch. I wouldn't use the built in boost gage because of its location,
I have an A pillar aftermarket gage and am able to monitor it while under WOT, not
something I'd do with my head in the cockpit. The peak hold would be nice but I can
monitor mine fairly well in real time [ assuming I'm not going around a 40 MPH corner
at 80 MPH with adrenaline spurting out from under my fingernails ]. INHO the SSBC
is more than sufficent for moderate boost levels on a mildly altered car.
I will be going to a more complex unit when I go to the next level [ probably a $6000
expenditure ] at which point I'll sell my SSBC and use the proceeds to buy a new set of
plugs.

Jim Berry  >>>          93 stealth TT ---- "arrest me red"
                       K&N FPIK -- Magnicore/.034" --- Blitz SSBC
                           [soon] --- GAB struts --- Stillen SS lines
                                 GC/Eibach  550# F/330# R
                    Gtech --- 0-60 = 4.75 -- 1/4 = 13.3 @ 110 mph

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:00:18 1999
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>Why would maximum boost pressure be a function of the solonoid?  All the
>solonoid has to do is vent the hose to shoot pressure through the roof!
>I would think the solonoid would impact responsiveness and perhaps
>overboost management.

The solenoid(s) are always pulsed, open (off mode)  or closed (low boost, idle). When it is closed the pressure in the hose
to the actuator is vented to the ambient. When it is open the pressure from the IN port goes to the actuators. The EBC
controls the acuators with pulsing the solenoids.

Therefore one big solenoid is slower than two smaller ones that can hold and control the same pressure. Even more one
smaller solenoid can act quickly but cannot release or build up pressure on the output.

Cheers,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:04:27 1999
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From: "waflestomp" <waflestomp@home.com>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Trying to hook up a Shift light
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 10:06:11 -0600
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after much searching through my Service Manual...I have come to a
conclusion.  I have no idea where  to hook up the shift light to "the
electronic ignition tach terminal" I just can't find it in the book. any I
have a 92 3K VR-4 any info, or page # would be appreciated.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:10:14 1999
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To: "'Team3S List'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: elecric blower
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 11:09:23 -0500
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> We therefore "can expect" 7% more fuel due to the more air and 2%
> more energy due to the increased fuel pressure. But this cannot
> be counted together as the 2% figure only tells us what the
> fuel system is capable of and for sure the NA system is not
> at its end with 1 psi of boost :)

To the best of my knowlege, the NA motors don't use a rising-rate fuel
pressure regulator since the engine is never expected to see boost and
require more fuel pressure.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:15:40 1999
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>It would appear that this formula is pretty reliant on an accurate BSFC
>value.  Where do we get this value for our cars?  And is the value the same
>at all levels of boost, and all values of temp?

The BSFC is mentioned in all books and sites that are speaking about this stuff. It is a basic constant that remains in the
engines design and can be calculated by using the internals of the engine. Don't ask me what it is needed as I haven't
found this information in any book nor on any site :( But the most sources are speaking of 0.5-0.6 for turbos and only Mitsu
does know this as the engine should be strapped on an engine-dyno with constant load over a specific time. It is always
constant for an engine and does not depend on the ambient. Once I was also told that the oil may have an influence to this
value as the wear is different as well as the mechanical resistance.

Therefore for a turbo engine (high oil temps) a value of 0.55 can be taken in general for a normal or good engine.

> We all now that on a nice cool evening the car makes more power, but is it consuming more fuel?  I
>doubt it.  Just some thoughts.

Sure, the air is denser then :) An Yes, it consumes more fuel then, but it needs less throttle to move the car and therefore
will help to increase mileage. But this has nothing to do with the BSFC.

Later,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:19:27 1999
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>I have no idea where  to hook up the shift light to "the
>electronic ignition tach terminal" I just can't find it in the book. any I
>have a 92 3K VR-4 any info, or page # would be appreciated.

Just look at my AFC installation page :
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/safc_inst.html

There is a scan of the ECU connector (M3) and the RPM signal needed is pointed out too.

Good luck,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:21:00 1999
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
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> > We all now that on a nice cool evening the car makes more power, but is
> it consuming more fuel?  I
> >doubt it.  Just some thoughts.
>
> Sure, the air is denser then :) An Yes, it consumes more fuel then, but it
> needs less throttle to move the car and therefore
> will help to increase mileage.
>
I guess maybe I am confusing, consumed fuel with injected fuel.  Do
you mean that more fuel is burned, even though the amount injected stays the
same?

> But this has nothing to do with the BSFC.
>
Hmmm.  Seems to me it would be directly related. 
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 09:21:41 1999
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>> But this cannot be counted together as the 2% figure only tells us what the
>> fuel system is capable of and for sure the NA system is not
>> at its end with 1 psi of boost :)

>To the best of my knowlege, the NA motors don't use a rising-rate fuel
>pressure regulator since the engine is never expected to see boost and
>require more fuel pressure.

You are absolutely right and this why it is not counted in here. Although the fuel pressure is already around 44 or 47psi and
a rising of one psi is within the variables :)

Cheers,
Roger
__________________________

Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo
. going the wet way now !

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 15:04:40 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Differences DSBC vs SSBC
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>Rodger, this may come as a suprise to you but a lot of us folk don't plan
on running
>more than 1 BAR ;-)

What ? Really ?? :)))

I fully agree with you on the cost/hp value and it works well. But you know,
also a bleeder valve and a manual boost controller works :)

Regards,
Roger (loves high tech)
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 15:22:34 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 00:17:08 +0200
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> I guess maybe I am confusing, consumed fuel with injected fuel.  Do
>you mean that more fuel is burned, even though the amount injected stays
the
>same?

Not really :) I'm sorry but sometimes I just use the wrong words and it's
not that easy to explain something more or less difficult in another
language.

If you drive on a cool day and you feel the car has more power than usual,
then this is because the air is denser. Therefore the sensor reads more air
volume sucked in, the pressure produced by the turbos is cooler and the fuel
efficiency is better. Due to this more air volume, the ECU adapts this and
increases the IDC to inject more fuel that finaly produces more power.

On a hot day the ECU may dump fuel to run way too rich just preventing any
retard due to knock. The fuel/power relation in the Excel-Table is then
highly degraded and some fuel is just wasted as coolant. The table is
assuming that there exists an optimal system although the BSFC does help to
adapt for the specific type of engine-system.

>> But this has nothing to do with the BSFC.
> Hmmm.  Seems to me it would be directly related.

Related to what ? It's a constant and not a variable and is not related to
any ambient figure.

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 15:34:36 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 17:34:29 -0500
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: R.G. [SMTP:robby@freesurf.ch]
> Sent: Friday, June 25, 1999 5:17 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations
>
>
> If you drive on a cool day and you feel the car has more power than usual,
> then this is because the air is denser. Therefore the sensor reads more
> air
> volume sucked in, the pressure produced by the turbos is cooler and the
> fuel
> efficiency is better. Due to this more air volume, the ECU adapts this and
> increases the IDC to inject more fuel that finaly produces more power.
>
OK, that makes sense

> >> But this has nothing to do with the BSFC.
> > Hmmm.  Seems to me it would be directly related.
>
> Related to what ? It's a constant and not a variable and is not related to
> any ambient figure.
>
OK, here is my next question then :), yep, I do have more.  :)

It would seem likely then that if the injectors simply are not
capable of supplying enough fuel to pass beyond the 400hp mark, (roughly),
and seeing as how, at 18psi I am still showing a rich condition, and that we
believe that at 15psi the motor is making about 400hp, would it not seem
logical that I should be over the 400hp mark?  Which leads me to believe
that my A/F gauge is showing me a pretty big lie.  Thoughts?

-John
(already wet!  Hurry up Roger!!! I want data on the ERL!!!)   :)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 15:46:28 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Team3S: Bleeder valve
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I am going to attempt the bleeder valve installation on my 94 VR4.
I've studied Roger's page, printed it out, and compared it to my engine.
Two questions, because I can't quite make out Roger's pictures, and I want
to be absolutely sure before I start cutting hoses:

1.  Where, exactly, is the stock solenoid valve? What does it look like?
(hey, guys -- turbos are all new to me. I came here from Corvettes. I don't
know a turbo solenoid valve from a pile of rocks)

2. Looking down at the four-way H valve connection, from the passenger side
of the engine, which is the line to the solenoid valve? (I know, it's
essentially the same question: find the solenoid valve, and you find the
right hose. But I'm the kind of guy who wears a belt and suspenders, and
pins his shirt to his pants, just in case.)

Rich/old poop/more horsepower!



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 15:55:09 1999
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Date: Fri, 25 Jun 1999 15:55:00 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bleeder valve
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The solenoid is on the firewall in the center.  It is the right most
solenoid in the group.  The bleeder goes on the bottom hose.  Check out
http://www.xanthviper.com/pics/gallery/galleryhtms/mods.htm for pictures
of a bleeder install.


Merritt wrote:
>
> I am going to attempt the bleeder valve installation on my 94 VR4.
> I've studied Roger's page, printed it out, and compared it to my engine.
> Two questions, because I can't quite make out Roger's pictures, and I want
> to be absolutely sure before I start cutting hoses:
>
> 1.  Where, exactly, is the stock solenoid valve? What does it look like?
> (hey, guys -- turbos are all new to me. I came here from Corvettes. I don't
> know a turbo solenoid valve from a pile of rocks)
>
> 2. Looking down at the four-way H valve connection, from the passenger side
> of the engine, which is the line to the solenoid valve? (I know, it's
> essentially the same question: find the solenoid valve, and you find the
> right hose. But I'm the kind of guy who wears a belt and suspenders, and
> pins his shirt to his pants, just in case.)
>
> Rich/old poop/more horsepower!
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

--
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Fri Jun 25 16:36:20 1999
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> 1.  Where, exactly, is the stock solenoid valve? What does it look like?
==============================================================
On the firewall, passenger side at the top of the engine compartment. there are two
solenoids side by side, EGR and boost.  Boost is nearest the centerline of
the car [ page 8-17 electrical manual ]. It's a plastic box about two inches high and
one inch wide with two vacuum hoses to it --- one hose goes to the 'H' connector
and the other goes to the wastegate. One port of the solenoid is vented to the
atmosphere, it may have a small filter cap over it.
As to question two you're right, follow the line :-)   You'll have to do without the
suspenders in this case.

    Jim Berry


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 26 14:46:57 1999
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From: "Pete Ryner" <pryner@ij.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Toyo Tires - Anyone have any experience with them?
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 17:53:01 -0400
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After just 10000 miles, my Pirellis gave up the ghost on my VR-4.  The best
I've ever gotten is 20,000 miles on a set of Dunlops.  The Pirellis gave me
good service until about 8,000 miles then became very noisy and developed a
bad vibration.  Tired of spending thousands to keep rubber on the road!  I
don't push the car too hard and am not racing.  Local dealer has some Toyo's
for only $670 installed with lifetime balance etc.  Anyone have any
experience with these tires?  Traction both wet and dry are as important as
handling and noise.  Maybe I'm looking for too much.  Comments?

Pete
91 VR-4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 26 16:40:18 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: SSBC installation help
Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 19:38:45 -0400
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Hey guys, just got in from the garage and had a few questions. (due to the
poor instructions provided by Blitz :-) )  Here is what I did.  I removed
the stock solenoid and in it's place I put the new blitz solenoid in.  One
line has a white dashed line on it that goes in front of the turbo, I am
assuming that is not on the pressure side. ( it did not have a clamp on it
originally.)  And then the other line goes to the H connector and the
actuator. ( I am assuming this line would have pressure when the turbo
spools up).  I hooked the line with the dashes to the "out" side of the
solenoid and the other to the "in" side.  Does this seem right to you?  I
looked at Roger's site but I am still confused.  I thought the solenoid bled
pressure off of the line going to the waste gates to keep them closed
longer.  On Roger's diagram it seems like the solenoid's "out" port does not
vent to the low pressure side but rather runs to the waste gate.  Wow I
think I am just confusing myself more and more.  Can someone clear this up
for me?

Thanks,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 26 17:18:09 1999
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Date: Sat, 26 Jun 1999 17:17:07 -0700
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SSBC installation help
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On my DSBC installation, both lines going to the stock solenoid are
plugged and the stock solenoid nipples are capped. The line at the back
of the Y pipe, where it curves to go into the TB, gets disconnected. The
nipple on the Y pipe side goes to the IN on the SSBC solenoid and the
OUT of the SSBC solenoid is butt spliced into the line removed from the
Y pipe. You could disconnect that line if you wish and run the OUT to
that source which I think is on the H connector but I'm not 100% since
it's been awhile since I did this.

Bruce

Kevin Schappell wrote:
>
> Hey guys, just got in from the garage and had a few questions. (due to the
> poor instructions provided by Blitz :-) )  Here is what I did.  I removed
> the stock solenoid and in it's place I put the new blitz solenoid in.  One
> line has a white dashed line on it that goes in front of the turbo, I am
> assuming that is not on the pressure side. ( it did not have a clamp on it
> originally.)  And then the other line goes to the H connector and the
> actuator. ( I am assuming this line would have pressure when the turbo
> spools up).  I hooked the line with the dashes to the "out" side of the
> solenoid and the other to the "in" side.  Does this seem right to you?  I
> looked at Roger's site but I am still confused.  I thought the solenoid bled
> pressure off of the line going to the waste gates to keep them closed
> longer.  On Roger's diagram it seems like the solenoid's "out" port does not
> vent to the low pressure side but rather runs to the waste gate.  Wow I
> think I am just confusing myself more and more.  Can someone clear this up
> for me?
>
> Thanks,
> Kevin Schappell
> Auto Answers
> http://www.pacarsearch.com
> Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
> Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 26 22:03:35 1999
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From: "Kevin Schappell" <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "Bruce Body" <bbody@pacbell.net>
Cc: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: SSBC installation help
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 01:01:58 -0400
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Thanks Bruce.  Everything is installed and working perfectly.  I am not
getting any over boost so I am going to turn up my gain until I see some
over shoot.  Is this the way to set the gain?  Also drivability has been
increased at the low setting of the boost controller like i thought.
( 6psi )  The stock boost setting was around 9psi and now at low setting the
waste gate is being controlled only by the springs.

Thanks again,
Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
To: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
Cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Saturday, June 26, 1999 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: SSBC installation help


>On my DSBC installation, both lines going to the stock solenoid are
>plugged and the stock solenoid nipples are capped. The line at the back
>of the Y pipe, where it curves to go into the TB, gets disconnected. The
>nipple on the Y pipe side goes to the IN on the SSBC solenoid and the
>OUT of the SSBC solenoid is butt spliced into the line removed from the
>Y pipe. You could disconnect that line if you wish and run the OUT to
>that source which I think is on the H connector but I'm not 100% since
>it's been awhile since I did this.
>
>Bruce
>
>Kevin Schappell wrote:
>>
>> Hey guys, just got in from the garage and had a few questions. (due to
the
>> poor instructions provided by Blitz :-) )  Here is what I did.  I removed
>> the stock solenoid and in it's place I put the new blitz solenoid in.
One
>> line has a white dashed line on it that goes in front of the turbo, I am
>> assuming that is not on the pressure side. ( it did not have a clamp on
it
>> originally.)  And then the other line goes to the H connector and the
>> actuator. ( I am assuming this line would have pressure when the turbo
>> spools up).  I hooked the line with the dashes to the "out" side of the
>> solenoid and the other to the "in" side.  Does this seem right to you?  I
>> looked at Roger's site but I am still confused.  I thought the solenoid
bled
>> pressure off of the line going to the waste gates to keep them closed
>> longer.  On Roger's diagram it seems like the solenoid's "out" port does
not
>> vent to the low pressure side but rather runs to the waste gate.  Wow I
>> think I am just confusing myself more and more.  Can someone clear this
up
>> for me?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Kevin Schappell
>> Auto Answers
>> http://www.pacarsearch.com
>> Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
>> Free ads, chat, links and research tools.
>>
>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 26 23:21:49 1999
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A couple of weeks ago I posted that I installed a 1st Gen DSM BPV in an
attempt to solve the hooting sound from the stock BPV that many of us
experience when we install a FIPK.

I now have about 700 miles on the car since the install and life is good
:-) No more hooting. I also noted an initial seat of the pants feeling
of quicker turbo spoolup and stronger pulling like it's holding the
boost better. This feeling did not go away so I decided to take it to
the strip last night.

The closest track to my house is at LACR in Palmdale, CA. This track is
at approx. 2800 ft. elevation. I have made about 25 runs at this track
in the past. My best ET at this track was 13.55 but usually ran
13.65-13.8. My best 60' at this track was 2.05 but I usually ran
2.15-2.25.

I made 7 passes. My best pass was 13.43. My other runs were in the
13.5-13.6 area with one 13.47 until my clutch started slipping. I got 4
1.90 sec 60' times with my worst being 2.17. I was holding 12 lbs. boost
through about ~6500 rpms (my shift point), whereas before I usually held
10-11 lbs. at this level.

This is all *way* better than I have ever run before at this track. The
only thing that did not seem to change much was my mph through the
traps, ~101. If anything, it's 1/2 mile lower. I haven't done anything
else to my car and I don't think my driving is any better than it was
before. I also had to lower the ratio on my DSBC by 2 to keep the same
boost levels. I know that BOV/BPVs do not make any horsepower, but could
these things be leaking that much pressure to make this much difference?
Remember, I could blow easily through my stock BPV with just my mouth
pressure. These results, coupled with my seat of the pants feeling on
the street, lead me to believe so.

Bruce
3Si #0243
95 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sat Jun 26 23:23:58 1999
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Is there a formula to correct 1/4 mile times for altitude? I found it
for temp, humidity, etc., but haven't seen anything for altitude.

Thanks,

Bruce
3Si #0243
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 04:28:49 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Update: Killed the honking goose
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Bruce, thanks for the update :)

>My best pass was 13.43. My other runs were in the
>13.5-13.6 area with one 13.47 until my clutch started slipping. I got 4
>1.90 sec 60' times with my worst being 2.17. I was holding 12 lbs. boost
>through about ~6500 rpms (my shift point), whereas before I usually held
>10-11 lbs. at this level.

What where the settings at the DSBC ? Try to reduce Gain by 1 and increase
Ratio until max boost is reached.

> I know that BOV/BPVs do not make any horsepower, but could
>these things be leaking that much pressure to make this much difference?

I'm positive that you are experiencing less lag (if any) and this results in
better spool-up and et's but not in better speed. This is the same what I
found after the BOV has been installed.

regards,
Roger

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 04:49:11 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Injectors, fuel, pump calculations, WI
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:47:13 +0200
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> OK, here is my next question then :), yep, I do have more.  :)


Hope I can give more answers ;-)

> It would seem likely then that if the injectors simply are not
>capable of supplying enough fuel to pass beyond the 400hp mark, (roughly),
>and seeing as how, at 18psi I am still showing a rich condition, and that
we
>believe that at 15psi the motor is making about 400hp, would it not seem
>logical that I should be over the 400hp mark?  Which leads me to believe
>that my A/F gauge is showing me a pretty big lie.  Thoughts?

Of course, my table is very theoretical and we are lucky to have a little
better quality as is blue-printed :)

Here some information I got from ERL regarding O2 :
----
The air/fuel ratio reading will not be affected provided the water is free
and other chemical like alcohol etc. It is best map the water injection
system in first before adding alcohol. The effect on alcohol on air/fuel
ratio reading is not clear, most gasoline in the US used alcohol to boost
the octane, they are normally called oxygenated fuel, it didn't seemed to
affect the car that runs on them, not heard of any complaints.

The O2 sensor can not be use reliably to detect air/fuel ratio, it has a
very narrow window, normally between 14-15.5 ratio, outside that window, the
reading is non-linear and should not be used for accurate A/F ratio reading.
You have to realise that O2 sensor only detects presence of O2, not CO
level.

CO level is a more accurate indication or A/F ratio. I think you should dyno
the car with CO probe to solve your fuel supply mystery.
----
On our dyno session we measured the ratio with the help of the probe in the
muffler and we found around 12.8-11:1 rich conditions where the ECU started
to retard the timing.

> (already wet!  Hurry up Roger!!! I want data on the ERL!!!)   :)

Haha, I'm known to take the stuff easy but surely :) As I will program a 3D
map for rpm/boost/water volume, having two jets to install and the water
pressure regulator there is a little bit more to plan than usual :) I'll
keep you all updated.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT





>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 04:49:43 1999
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The Blitz boost controller solenoids do vent the pressure to the atmosphere
internally (in the box) and therefore do not have to lead somewhere. The stock
solenoid vents it back to the intake.

To hook up the new solenoid valve just remove the line that goes to the stock
solenoid (comming from the H-connector) and cap the newly open port. The new
open line should also be plugged.

As already described by Bruce, the IN port will be directly conected to the
ellbow of the y-pipe and the OUT port is connected to the line that was
connected originally to the ellbow. But it's good to keep the hoses as short as
possible.

> I thought the solenoid bled pressure off of the line going to the waste gates
> to keep them closed longer.

No, the solenoids prevent pressure going to the actuators (closed). Also at this
time, the line between actuators and solenoid is bled to the atmosphere.

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 08:36:31 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Bosch +4 Platinum plugs and re-gapping for more boost?
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 11:34:46 -0400
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Has anyone used these?  They have 4 electrodes but it does not seem that
they can be re-gapped since they come from the sides and not over the tip.
Local performance shop was trying to sell me them, said everyone who uses
them loves them. (don't they all say that !)  I commented that I could not
re-gap them and they guy said I was crazy for wanting to reduce the gap with
increased boost.  He said that it should not make a difference and that the
spark should not be blown out.  He did state that re-gapping should advance
the timing and that would account for the power increase.  Is this guy
blowing smoke up my @@s or is he on to something?  Are our engines prone to
spark blow out due to the way the head is designed or are the dyno increases
seen due to advanced timing?

Alot to ponder, just thought I would throw it out there,

Kevin Schappell
Auto Answers
http://www.pacarsearch.com
Pennsylvania's newest auto classifieds site.
Free ads, chat, links and research tools.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 08:50:07 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: elecric blower
References: <006e01bebe9a$6cefabc0$6801a8c0@ashacorp> <3773481E.47AFEF5A@swissonline.ch> <3773B1BC.69DFA966@gat.com>
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> > 182in^3 * 6000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 284 cfm
> > 182in^3 * 7000rpm * 0.5 *0.9 * 1 (0 bars of boost)) / 1728 = 332 cfm
>
> Hey Roger,
>
> What is the 0.9 value?  Is that an assumed efficiency?

The formula is :

Airflow Rate = (cid * rpm * 0.5 * E) / 1728

cid = engine displacement
0.5 = 4-stroke engine => fill at each half revolution
E = Volumetric efficiency (~90% on our cars)
1728 = converts cubic inches to cubic feet

Regards,
Roger

-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 09:01:55 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bosch +4 Platinum plugs and re-gapping for more boost?
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 17:59:53 +0200
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The Supra friends used the plugs successfully but only a special version
that is damn expensive (I was told). There is no one that would fit our cars
and earlier report do not say good things about them.

The stock NGKs are still a very good choice.

The Bosch is fine without regapping in the Supra but not on our cars till
today.

>He did state that re-gapping should advance the timing and that would
>account for the power increase.  Is this guy blowing smoke up my @@s or is
>he on to something?

Regapping the plugs should advance the timing ? This is new to me and just
makes no sense. The spark will not ignite itselfs earlier as still the ECU
is in control :)

We reduce the gap to reduce the detonation in the chamber. The cause is the
mixture with the higher boost that is not well ignited. Reducing the gap
solves this problem and still keeps the idle running smooth and also the
most of us have not experienced any decrease in mileage.

>spark blow out due to the way the head is designed or are the dyno
increases
>seen due to advanced timing?

No the timing is not advanced, but the ECU does not retard the timing due to
any detonation.

Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 09:32:08 1999
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> >
> > What is the 0.9 value?  Is that an assumed efficiency?
>
> The formula is :
>
> Airflow Rate = (cid * rpm * 0.5 * E) / 1728
>
> cid = engine displacement
> 0.5 = 4-stroke engine => fill at each half revolution
> E = Volumetric efficiency (~90% on our cars)
> 1728 = converts cubic inches to cubic feet
===============================================================
Things that make you go HMMMMM ---- 90% VE that sounds low. I thought you could get 80% with a good
NA engine. At 15 plus pounds boost I would think you could do better. The operative word here is,
THINK, I have an engineering background but limited automotive experience. As a matter of fact can
you have a VE in excess of one. If the cylinder is pressurized you effectively force more air in
than the actual displacement of the engine.  Tutorial please :-)

   Jim Berry

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 10:15:08 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>, <robby@swissonline.ch>,
        "Ken Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: elecric blower
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:13:14 +0200
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> Things that make you go HMMMMM ---- 90% VE that sounds low. I thought you
could get 80% with
> a good NA engine. At 15 plus pounds boost I would think you could do
better.

You are absolutely right ! I also wrote in my post :

Airflow rate = pressure ratio * basic engine cfm

pressure ratio = 1 + pressure in bars (i.e. 2.03 for 15psi)

Therefore 1psi of boost equals 0.07bars
=> airflow rate = 1.07 * 332cfm = 355.3cfm

As the turbos and intercoolers are a restriction when the engine is
operating in the non-boost area, the VE is degraded compared to the same NA
engine. This is why the base for the TT cars can be calculated with 85% and
the NAs with 90%.

>The operative word here is, THINK, I have an engineering background but
limited automotive
> experience. As a matter of fact can you have a VE in excess of one. If the
cylinder is pressurized you
> effectively force more air in than the actual displacement of the engine.
Tutorial please :-)

Also my background is EE and some machanical stuff (in my earlier years,
haha). But I read a lot and had the chance to compare some different
findings on dyno tests :) I love when the practical testings are so close to
the calculated stuff ;-)

Regards,
Roger
3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 10:26:45 1999
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From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@mail.magma.ca>
To: "Team3S Tech list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: HKS BOV
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:28:12 -0400
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Group;

        I have just purchased an HKS seuqential BOV for my car. I want to
stick it in myself. Anyone installed one before? Any tips ?

Regards,
Fred
#121

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 10:28:39 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'R.G.'" <robby@freesurf.ch>,
        "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bosch +4 Platinum plugs and re-gapping for more boost?
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 13:15:43 -0400
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[Kevin Schappell]   Basically the theory on this is that the shorter the gap the sooner the plug will fire.  When the ECU tells the plug to fire there is some delay there as the coils build up enough energy to jump the gap.  The shorter the gap, the shorter the time to jump and fire the plug.  HOWEVER... this also reduces the energy in the spark since the coil does not have enough time to build up.
I just stopped into this shop and do not know their reputation or history but he does deal with turbo cars. I am not arguing anyone's results, as I believe that regapping the plug does increase power (or reduces detonation) I walked out thinking the guy was nuts too but then got to thinking.... reducing the gap would advance the timing.  But if it did advance timing then detonation would be seen sooner, so it does not match with your results seen on the dyno.  Anyway I am not forming any opinions, just want to kick up some discussions.

  

Regapping the plugs should advance the timing ? This is new to me and just
makes no sense. The spark will not ignite itselfs earlier as still the ECU
is in control :)

We reduce the gap to reduce the detonation in the chamber. The cause is the
mixture with the higher boost that is not well ignited. Reducing the gap
solves this problem and still keeps the idle running smooth and also the
most of us have not experienced any decrease in mileage.

>spark blow out due to the way the head is designed or are the dyno
increases
>seen due to advanced timing?

No the timing is not advanced, but the ECU does not retard the timing due to
any detonation.

Cheers,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 10:59:57 1999
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From: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>, "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>,
        "Ken Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: eRAM electric blower info (from the company)...
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 10:59:25 -0700
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I've been having a dialogue with the owners at eRacing, in an attempt
to get more info about their 'eRAM' and 'Super eRAM' electric blower
units; I intend to test at least one (maybe both) of their eRAM units
on my Stealth very soon (they're in San Jose, just a short drive from
San Francisco).  I'll do a 'supervised' install at their facilities
and videotape it, (and dyno before and after to verify HP increase).
Here's a bit of what they have to say, and an answer to one of my
questions...:

"Thanks for the interest in the eRAM electric supercharger.   Your
size engine is ideal for the eRAM's 1psi pressure developed and air
flow rating.   We just returned yesterday from another dyno run on a
3.2 liter 911 carrera.   Again, we saw close to 10 hp and a 5-7 ft lbs
of torque developed from beginning to end on the HP Torque curve."
"The reason the eRAM works is quite simple.  It pressurizes the air
box or intake tube with a slight pressure and that pressure is a rise
in air density , which is matched quite easily by fuel by almost all
modern day computers/engine management systems.   (ie MAF, AFM, MAP,
and others as well as carburetors)."

Q:  Team3S:  "We have members with engines that vary from stock
horsepowers to highly-modded -- are there any known Super E-Ram issues
with engines that have other modifications already in place?"

A:  eRAM:  "We are mounting one to a 6 liter mercedes GT car right now
with a rear wheel HP of around 270.  one in each intake tube should
provide the same gains as one unit would on a high performance 3 liter
engine for which we have seen 5% gains on average.  However, the limit
seems to be in the 4 liter per unit range per eRAM.
"...A 650 hp engine that turns 550hp to the gound is probably a 2 bar
turbo 3 liter., which is the same air flow as a 9 liter engine.   Our
air flow is limited at 750 cfm in free air, so a 3 liter is 320 cfm, 5
liter is 530 cfm and an 8 liter viper would be in the 850cfm at
6000rpm.
"...Our super eRAM was just tested and gave a 50% more HP over a
single eRAM in series.  we had hoped for double the gains, but reality
has hit and it was only 50% more.    One eRAM is a very good HP to
cost value."

-:-

So it appears that the 'Super eRAM' is twice the price, but only
realizes 50% more HP increase over the 'eRAM'.  So far, they've only
offered us a 5% Team3S discount (10% on a 10+ unit Group Purchase).
I'll keep you posted after I install the eRAM...  I have to put in my
RPS clutch first (yes Roger-- it arrived yesterday!), so it will be
sometime next month.  More to come...

Forrest


-----Original Message-----From: R.G. <robby@freesurf.ch>

|> Things that make you go HMMMMM ---- 90% VE that sounds low. I
thought you
|could get 80% with
|> a good NA engine. At 15 plus pounds boost I would think you could
do
|better.
|
|You are absolutely right ! I also wrote in my post :
|
|Airflow rate = pressure ratio * basic engine cfm
|
|pressure ratio = 1 + pressure in bars (i.e. 2.03 for 15psi)
|
|Therefore 1psi of boost equals 0.07bars
|=> airflow rate = 1.07 * 332cfm = 355.3cfm
|
|As the turbos and intercoolers are a restriction when the engine is
|operating in the non-boost area, the VE is degraded compared to the
same NA
|engine. This is why the base for the TT cars can be calculated with
85% and
|the NAs with 90%.
-------------snipped--------------


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 13:04:13 1999
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Message-ID: <000c01bec0d8$6fe80c60$c405bfce@fred>
From: "Fred Richardson" <rich@mail.magma.ca>
To: "Team3S Tech list" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: re:HKS BOV
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 16:05:41 -0400
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The BOV I bought is one of the new Chrome jobs. I have a '95 Stealth RT TT.
I started out by putting a set of Neihoff's and a FIPK on it and wanted to
get the BOV before continuing upgrading. I'm looking down the road at a
Borla and a Profec A.

Regards,
Fred
#121

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 14:40:59 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>, "Jim Berry" <fastmax@home.com>,
        "Ken Middaugh" <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Cc: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: eRAM electric blower info (from the company)...
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 23:33:10 +0200
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How much do you have to pay for the thing ?

And how much air can the eRam or Super eRam flow at 1 or even 2 psi of boost
?

>3.2 liter 911 carrera.   Again, we saw close to 10 hp and a 5-7 ft lbs
>of torque developed from beginning to end on the HP Torque curve."

Hehe, as calculated :))

>"...Our super eRAM was just tested and gave a 50% more HP over a
>single eRAM in series.  we had hoped for double the gains, but reality
>has hit and it was only 50% more.    One eRAM is a very good HP to
>cost value."


Oh yeah ?? The eRam is $299, installation maybe another $100 and gain will
be 10hp ?
Sorry, but $40 per hp is far away from any good hp to cost value. But as
someone said : every pony count :)

>So it appears that the 'Super eRAM' is twice the price, but only
>realizes 50% more HP increase over the 'eRAM'.

The Super eRAM are two propellers instead of only one. Interestingly,
they've just put the thing together and looked on the dyno how much power
increase they are getting and where surprised only to get 50% more. Hey,
what about calculating the internal flow, efficiency, heating up the air,
behaviour at different ambient, etc. If the Super eRAM would be designed
correctly, the two blades would work incorperated like a Roots blower
providing a much better result. Just look at the large gap between the
propellers and the desing of the blades. I'm sure, if they would be properly
designed a higher gain could be found.

IMHO, the Turbo-Zet seems to be better designed !

>RPS clutch first (yes Roger-- it arrived yesterday!)

Great !! Mine will arrive maybe at x-mas or so :(

Later,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 17:59:19 1999
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From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Headlights stuck in up position
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 20:56:26 -0400
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My headlight covers on my 93 Stealth TT are stuck in the up position.

The headlights come on as they should, but the pop-ups will not close =
when I turn off the headlights.

My first guess is a loose or cracked vacuum hose.

Any other ideas?

Robyn


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My headlight covers on my 93 Stealth =
TT are=20
stuck in the up position.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The headlights come on as they =
should, but the=20
pop-ups will not close when I turn off the headlights.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My first guess is a loose or cracked vacuum =
hose.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any other ideas?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>Robyn</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00A8_01BEC0DF.85748AC0--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 18:07:29 1999
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From: Kevin Clark <Kevin.Clark@hnz.co.nz>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Headlights stuck in up position
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See "Section I" at http://beam.to/GTO_Manual <http://beam.to/GTO_Manual> .

I) Simple (but common) Problems

Having trouble with your pop-up lights, or passenger side window?
It could be that you have accidently pushed one of two annoying buttons...
If your pop-up lights are unwilling to go down, then the most likely problem is
that you have pressed the "please stay up" button. This is situated under the
button for the fog/aux lights (as seen by the arrow in the diagram). One good use
for this button is to clean the headlamps without having to turn the car on.
If you are having trouble getting the passenger side window to work, then it
could just be that you have mistakenly pressed the power window lock button
(WDO lock) situated on the driver side window control panel.

Cheers,
Kevin Clark
'91 GTO-VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 18:25:32 1999
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From: "Stealth" <cirrus@shore.intercom.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Headlights stuck in up position
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-
>It could be that you have accidently pushed one of two annoying buttons...

It was.

I went out there immediately to check...and voila'! Problem solved. I had
let my sister drive it to the store (with me riding shotgun of course!) and
in fumbling around with the headlights she hit it, as that is when it
started.

Thanks!

</dummy mode off>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 18:34:45 1999
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From: "waflestomp" <waflestomp@home.com>
To: "Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: annoying pot holes
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 19:36:23 -0600
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I recently hit a monster pot hole, it has caused several problems:

1.  ECS light now flashes
2.  Broke the wheel and trashed the tire
3.  popped the tweeter out of the dash

and now the one I haven't a clue how to fix

4.  The radiator warning light on the instrument panel comes on at will.
Usually when the car is cold (it is summer here so it isn't THAT cold).  I
have checked the level, and it seems fine.  Was wondering if it could have
loosened the sensor wires and caused this.  The engine temp does not seem to
be out of control.  Also was wondering if the radiator cap could cause the
problem (maybe not pressurized properly or something)

Steve Davis
92 3K GT VR-4


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 18:56:30 1999
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From: "MITCHELL, Ron @Toronto" <rmitchell@shl.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 21:56:11 -0400
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I recently had a set of Eibach springs installed on my 94 Stealth TT by a
local performance shop. While the ride and handling has been improved, ever
since, I've heard a rattling noise when hitting small road imperfections.
I've even heard it when going over speed bumps at very low speeds. It seems
to happen at all our corners and is quite predictable. The rattling noise is
very similar to the noise I once experienced on another car that had lost
its brake pad anti-rattle clips. Is this normal with Eibachs, or has
something been overlooked by the installers?

Ron

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 19:07:00 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: annoying pot holes
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As an aside, if it's not too late, you should file a claim with the
agency responsible for maintaining that road and let them pay for the
diagnosis and repair.

Bruce
3Si #0243

waflestomp wrote:
>
> I recently hit a monster pot hole, it has caused several problems:
>
> 1.  ECS light now flashes
> 2.  Broke the wheel and trashed the tire
> 3.  popped the tweeter out of the dash
>
> and now the one I haven't a clue how to fix
>
> 4.  The radiator warning light on the instrument panel comes on at will.
> Usually when the car is cold (it is summer here so it isn't THAT cold).  I
> have checked the level, and it seems fine.  Was wondering if it could have
> loosened the sensor wires and caused this.  The engine temp does not seem to
> be out of control.  Also was wondering if the radiator cap could cause the
> problem (maybe not pressurized properly or something)
>
> Steve Davis
> 92 3K GT VR-4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 20:47:37 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "MITCHELL, Ron @Toronto" <rmitchell@shl.com>,
        <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 22:46:43 -0500
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I have installed 3 sets of Eibach springs which have caused this problem.

The rear springs are compressing against each other.. Fix: wrap & glue
rubber hose on them.

Front springs are similar, but moving around a little on the perch. Same
fix.

Last time I spoke with Eibach they denied having any complaints about this.
I see that there is still a problem.

Normal, I would say yes.. Acceptable, I would say no.


Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of MITCHELL, Ron
@Toronto
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 8:56 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises

I recently had a set of Eibach springs installed on my 94 Stealth TT by a
local performance shop. While the ride and handling has been improved, ever
since, I've heard a rattling noise when hitting small road imperfections.
I've even heard it when going over speed bumps at very low speeds. It seems
to happen at all our corners and is quite predictable. The rattling noise is
very similar to the noise I once experienced on another car that had lost
its brake pad anti-rattle clips. Is this normal with Eibachs, or has
something been overlooked by the installers?

Ron

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Sun Jun 27 21:44:06 1999
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From: Curt Gendron <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Possible leaking turbo
Date: Sun, 27 Jun 1999 23:42:50 CDT
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Hey everyone,

I need some expert advice.  A few weeks ago, I changed my spark plugs (NGK)
and my wires (Magnecors) and of course regapped them to .034.  John B. and
Francis came over and helped me with the project because I have never
changed any spark plugs before, much less plugs on a 3/S.  We also changed
the plenum gasket and the throttle body gasket.  The car seemed to run fine
right after that, but then an interesting problem arose.  An annoying high
pitched squel and sputtering noise occured.  I have a Blitz DSBC and a HKS
Super Mega Flow for mods.  With the HKS I typically get the high pitch
whistle noise when the turbos spool up, but this new noise is different.

The sputtering noise only happens past about 7-8psi.  And the noise doesn't
occur when the engine is cold.  I know the typical thing to check is all the
hoses, vacuumn lines and IC piping.  Well, I check all of those and
everything is secure.  This problem is driving my batty.  The car actually
still runs normal.  I get the same boost readings with the same Blitz
settings.  And the car seems to pull just as hard.

My gut instinct tells me its the IC pipe coming from the rear turbo, but the
damn think is as tight as I can get it.  I really need some expert help
here.  Don't give me some shot in the dark guesses.  If anyone has any solid
thoughts on the subject, or its happened to you, let me know.

Thanks a bunch,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
And authour of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.mn3s.org


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 05:43:23 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
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"R.G." wrote:

> The stock NGKs are still a very good choice.
> The Bosch is fine without regapping in Supra but not our cars til today.
> >He state that re-gapping should advance  timing and would
> >account for power increase.  Is this guy blowing smoke up my @@s or is

Yes he is  blowing smoke from the biggest crackpipe in the universe.
Narrowing the spark gap makes no significant change in the timing of the
spark!  YOW!

> Regapping plugs advance the timing ?
> makes no sense. spark will not ignite itself earlier;  ECU
> is in control :)
> We reduce  gap to reduce detonation in chamber. The cause is
> mixture with higher boost is not well ignited. Reducing gap
> solves this problem and keeps idle running smooth
> most of us have not experienced any decrease in mileage

Reducing spark gap will not decrease detonation.  Detonation
(not talking about "preignition" here) is a function
of several functions, the major players being cylinder pressure, octane of fuel,
and timing of spark BECAUSE if it is too early the PRESSURE RISES in
the cylinder EARLY so the pressure gets critically high while piston is STILL
RISING in bore (still coming up from below top dead center).  As you retard
timing, the pressure curve rises but reaches peak further AFTER top dead center
so the pressure doesn't reach the detonation threshold.  I think peak cylinder pressure
ideally comes about 20 degrees ATDC or so (?)  If the mix is not 'well ignited'
it will make less power but won't detonate because it never reaches critical
cylinder pressure.

Reducing spark gap simply makes it easier to ignite the mix under high boost.
Small gap=less resistance so spark can manage to jump the gap and fire the
cylinder, instead of NOT sparking or lighting mix with larger gap and our weak
ignition systems.  LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you have enough
energy to jump gap, it will have better chance of firing the mix/fewer misfires (spark
but no ignition), and may burn better (more complete burn) since starting with SLIGHTLY
larger flamefront.

Jack Tertadian

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 05:50:44 1999
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From: "Basol, John" <jbasol@Carlson.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 07:50:31 -0500
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: xwing [SMTP:xwing@execpc.com]
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 7:42 PM
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
>
> Reducing spark gap simply makes it easier to ignite the mix under high
> boost.
> Small gap=less resistance so spark can manage to jump the gap and fire the
> cylinder, instead of NOT sparking or lighting mix with larger gap and our
> weak
> ignition systems.  LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you have enough
> energy to jump gap, it will have better chance of firing the mix/fewer
> misfires (spark
> but no ignition), and may burn better (more complete burn) since starting
> with SLIGHTLY
> larger flamefront.
>
Does anyone know of any company offering a better ingnition system
for our cars?  I would imagine the weak link with our cars is probably those
coil packs, heh?

-John
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 06:05:02 1999
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<html><head></head>
<body>
<table><tr><td>

<BR><FONT FACE="Arial" COLOR="#000000" SIZE="3">&gt;Reducing
spark gap will not decrease detonation.&nbsp;&nbsp;Detonation
<BR>&gt;(not talking about "preignition" here) is a function
<BR>&lt;snip&gt;
<BR>Very good and helpful description !
<BR>&gt;LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you have enough
<BR>&gt;energy to jump gap, it will have better chance of firing
the mix/fewer misfires (spark
<BR>&gt;but no ignition), and may burn better (more complete
burn) since starting with SLIGHTLY
<BR>&gt;larger flamefront.
<BR>What about a rich mixture. I'd say that it contains more
energy but is less completely burnt at the end. Is the rich
mixture more or less resistance for the desired energy ?
<BR>ERL told me that I'm be able to increase gap plug with the
water injection. Hmm, this seems to make sense and there is less
energy "wasted" and more fuel can be burnt. Interesting :)
<BR>Roger
</font></td></tr></table><table><tr><td>><br>
__________________________<br>
<br>
Roger Gerl, Switzerland<br>
93'3000GT TwinTurbo<br>
</td></tr></table>

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Reply-To: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
From: "Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To: "Stealth - Team 3S" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Blitz EGT guage
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 07:55:44 -0600
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I went to install my new Blitz EGT gauge when I discover that the wiring
diagram was in Japanese (!?)  I can tell from the diagram that the black
wire goes to ground.  I have a yellow and an orange (the red looks like it
is not used) wire and I can't tell which is attached to power and which is
attached to the 'lights' circuit.   Also, where is the best place to tape
into the 'lights' circuit.

Thanks


Jeffrey
92 RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 07:41:41 1999
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From: "Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises + RSR
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:39:37 -0500
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I experienced the same thing with my RS*R springs.  In my case it appears to
only happen in the rear.  I took it back to the shop that installed the
springs and they were unable to locate the problem.  Thanks Brad for a
soluition.   I will definitely give this a try.

Oskar
'95 R/T TT
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: MITCHELL, Ron @Toronto <rmitchell@shl.com>;
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, June 27, 1999 10:47 PM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises


>I have installed 3 sets of Eibach springs which have caused this problem.
>
>The rear springs are compressing against each other.. Fix: wrap & glue
>rubber hose on them.
>
>Front springs are similar, but moving around a little on the perch. Same
>fix.
>
>Last time I spoke with Eibach they denied having any complaints about this.
>I see that there is still a problem.
>
>Normal, I would say yes.. Acceptable, I would say no.
>
>
>Brad
>Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
>> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of MITCHELL, Ron
>@Toronto
>Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 8:56 PM
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: Post-Eibach rattling noises
>
>I recently had a set of Eibach springs installed on my 94 Stealth TT by a
>local performance shop. While the ride and handling has been improved, ever
>since, I've heard a rattling noise when hitting small road imperfections.
>I've even heard it when going over speed bumps at very low speeds. It seems
>to happen at all our corners and is quite predictable. The rattling noise
is
>very similar to the noise I once experienced on another car that had lost
>its brake pad anti-rattle clips. Is this normal with Eibachs, or has
>something been overlooked by the installers?
>
>Ron
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 08:16:01 1999
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From: "Wendlandt, Mark (MN51)" <MWendlan@cfsmo.honeywell.com>
To: "'Curt Gendron'" <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>,
        stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible leaking turbo
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:15:53 -0500
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Curt,

Is it possible that the rubber o-ring around the rear intercooler pipe is
damaged, resulting in the pipe not sealing properly??  Tightening the bolt
does not help seal the pipe, it just holds the pipe in place.  The o-ring
fits around the pipe and is compressed as it is pushed into the turbo flange
creating the seal.  If this is damaged, no matter how tight the bolt is, the
pipe will not seal completely.

Just a thought,

Mark
'91RT/TT

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Mark Wendlandt     Honeywell CASSPO-Inertial Support
Phone:  957-3736     Pager: 601-0881
Email:  Mark.Wendlandt@cfsmo.honeywell.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



-----Original Message-----
From: Curt Gendron [mailto:curt_gendron@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, June 27, 1999 11:43 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Possible leaking turbo


Hey everyone,

I need some expert advice.  A few weeks ago, I changed my spark plugs (NGK)
and my wires (Magnecors) and of course regapped them to .034.  John B. and
Francis came over and helped me with the project because I have never
changed any spark plugs before, much less plugs on a 3/S.  We also changed
the plenum gasket and the throttle body gasket.  The car seemed to run fine
right after that, but then an interesting problem arose.  An annoying high
pitched squel and sputtering noise occured.  I have a Blitz DSBC and a HKS
Super Mega Flow for mods.  With the HKS I typically get the high pitch
whistle noise when the turbos spool up, but this new noise is different.

The sputtering noise only happens past about 7-8psi.  And the noise doesn't
occur when the engine is cold.  I know the typical thing to check is all the

hoses, vacuumn lines and IC piping.  Well, I check all of those and
everything is secure.  This problem is driving my batty.  The car actually
still runs normal.  I get the same boost readings with the same Blitz
settings.  And the car seems to pull just as hard.

My gut instinct tells me its the IC pipe coming from the rear turbo, but the

damn think is as tight as I can get it.  I really need some expert help
here.  Don't give me some shot in the dark guesses.  If anyone has any solid

thoughts on the subject, or its happened to you, let me know.

Thanks a bunch,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
And authour of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.mn3s.org


_______________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 08:31:14 1999
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From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Eibach springs for sale
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Brand new, never opened...........$200 including shipping in the USA

Respond privately please

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 09:12:35 1999
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:12:29 -0700
From: Ken Middaugh <Kenneth.Middaugh@gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion Group
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To: Bruce Body <bbody@pacbell.net>
CC: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Correction for Altitude
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Bruce Body wrote:
>
> Is there a formula to correct 1/4 mile times for altitude? I found it
> for temp, humidity, etc., but haven't seen anything for altitude.

Just browse the web.  I found one at
http://www.atl-fbody.com/dragracing/index.htm

Have fun!
--
Hang up and drive!

Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 09:44:01 1999
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References: <37777273377df95e@newmail.spectraweb.ch> (added by newmail.spectraweb.ch)
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 09:40:28 -0700
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rich mixture has lower resistance, hence less voltage is required for =
tha same gap (or allows larger gap at the same voltage) pressure =
(density) has more profound effect than  composition (richness)
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: R.G.=20
  To: xwing@execpc.com ; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com=20
  Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 6:07 AM
  Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?



        <snip>=20
        Very good and helpful description !=20
        >LARGER gaps can make more HP because IF you have enough=20
        >energy to jump gap, it will have better chance of firing the =
mix/fewer misfires (spark=20
        >but no ignition), and may burn better (more complete burn) =
since starting with SLIGHTLY=20
        >larger flamefront.=20
        What about a rich mixture. I'd say that it contains more energy =
but is less completely burnt at the end. Is the rich mixture more or =
less resistance for the desired energy ?=20
        ERL told me that I'm be able to increase gap plug with the water =
injection. Hmm, this seems to make sense and there is less energy =
"wasted" and more fuel can be burnt. Interesting :)=20
        Roger =20
        >
        __________________________

        Roger Gerl, Switzerland
        93'3000GT TwinTurbo
      =20
  For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is =
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm=20

------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BEC14A.41AAB600
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>rich mixture has lower resistance, hence less =
voltage is=20
required for tha same gap (or allows larger gap at the same voltage) =
pressure=20
(density) has more profound effect than&nbsp; composition=20
(richness)</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:robby@freesurf.ch" =
title=3Drobby@freesurf.ch>R.G.</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
href=3D"mailto:xwing@execpc.com"=20
  title=3Dxwing@execpc.com>xwing@execpc.com</A> ; <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"=20
  =
title=3Dstealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com</A>=
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, June 28, 1999 =
6:07 AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Team3S: Re: Bosch =
+4=20
  Platinum plug re-gap for boost?</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <TABLE>
    <TBODY>
    <TR>
      <TD><BR><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D'rial"'=20
        size=3D">>Reducing&#13;&#10; spark gap will not decrease =
detonation.&nbsp;&nbsp;Detonation&#13;&#10;<BR>>(not talking about "=20
        <BR function a is here) preignition?>&lt;snip&gt; <BR>Very good =
and=20
        helpful description ! <BR>&gt;LARGER gaps can make more HP =
because IF=20
        you have enough <BR>&gt;energy to jump gap, it will have better =
chance=20
        of firing the mix/fewer misfires (spark <BR>&gt;but no =
ignition), and=20
        may burn better (more complete burn) since starting with =
SLIGHTLY=20
        <BR>&gt;larger flamefront. <BR>What about a rich mixture. I'd =
say that=20
        it contains more energy but is less completely burnt at the end. =
Is the=20
        rich mixture more or less resistance for the desired energy ? =
<BR>ERL=20
        told me that I'm be able to increase gap plug with the water =
injection.=20
        Hmm, this seems to make sense and there is less energy "wasted" =
and more=20
        fuel can be burnt. Interesting :) <BR>Roger =
</FONT></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
  <TABLE>
    <TBODY>
    <TR>
      <TD>&gt;<BR>__________________________<BR><BR>Roger Gerl,=20
        Switzerland<BR>93'3000GT =
TwinTurbo<BR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>For=20
  subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is=20
  http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm </BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

------=_NextPart_000_00C3_01BEC14A.41AAB600--

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 10:02:40 1999
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From: Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Basol, John'" <jbasol@carlson.com>, stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: RE: 3KGT ignition system (was: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for
boost?)
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 10:02:36 -0700
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John...

Mike Mafferty has a package that includes a VPC and a MSD ignition booster.
He tells me that the MSD allows up to open the plug gap back up to .037".
Very tempting, he's gotten down into the 11s with this setup. As I recall
from our phone conversations a couple months ago, he wants about $1K for the
package, with harnesses customized for our cars. His e-address is
LotoBoost@aol.com.

I'm waiting for my last chip set from G-force, then I'm off to the track for
some 1/4 mile runs.

Looking forward...Chris

-----Original Message-----
From: Basol, John [mailto:jbasol@carlson.com]
Sent: Monday, June 28, 1999 5:51 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Re: Bosch +4 Platinum plug re-gap for boost?

<snip>
Does anyone know of any company offering a better ingnition system
for our cars?  I would imagine the weak link with our cars is probably those
coil packs, heh?

-John
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 11:50:32 1999
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So today I was having fun on Autobahn 5 and had just finished repeatedly
passing and pulling away from an early '90s 911 turbo (I assume it was a
turbo - fixed wing, wide tires, dual exhaust, black puff of smoke when
shifting, etc.) all the way from Frankfurt to Heidelburg when I came up
on something a little more interesting.  It was some kind of factory
Porsche prototype, low to the ground with a boxter front and an Audi TT
rear, ugly mat black with tape all over, German HI plates.  I came up
behind him, the traffic cleared, I saw his rear squat (no black puffs,
BTW) and I dropped the hammer in fourth (going about 110 at this
point).  It was FAST, and I couldn't keep up.  I saw the speedo just shy
of 170 mph (275 kph) before we had to brake for traffic, and he was
about ten car lengths further ahead than when we started.  The driver
seemed extremely interested in what I was driving (seems like Mike and I
have the only two turbo Stealths in Germany!), pulling up close behind
and cruising next to my rear corner for a good long look.  The victor
gave me the thumbs up and a respectful nod before taking the exit for
Stuttgart as I continued south.

So, this may have been just some guy with a modified non-turbo, since
these can give me a run for the money even in [apparently] stock form.
But I'd rather believe that it might have been a prototype of the new
type 996 Porsche 911 Turbo!  Any ideas?

Hey Roger, how's that water injection system coming along?  Next time
I'll keep going and meet you in Basel for an install so that I can beat
him on the way back home!  :-)

BTW, with all of this high speed fun in moderate traffic (not counting
the 30 minute stau), I was able to go 350 miles in just under three
hours and on about 20 gallons of gas.  :-)  Note that I am currently
using Roger's old stock brake pads on the front and they performed
admireably.  In fact, it seems that the warp that had developed with the
Stillens has disappeared!  Had to hit the brakes hard several times and
experienced no fade.  Also no fade a few nights ago during a fast drive
through the country that left both front brakes smoking for more than
five minutes when I got home.  When these wear out, I'll put the Abex
pads on and see how they compare.

-Jim, spoiled for life by the Autobahn!  :-)
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews

*** 3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030 ***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 72% BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Blitz Blow-Off Valve
Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, Top Speed: 168mph
G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
1 Feb 99 Dyno Session: 406 SAE HP, 354 lb-ft torque
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 12:01:20 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
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Bruce, I think I may have the same leaky BOV problem. Now is this a
due to a DEFECTIVE BOV or an inadequate one?

The reason I am asking is because I took my car into the dealership for
this groaning noise (could also be described as a goose) and told them I
thought it was the BOV. The thing is I don't have an air filter installed
yet!

Was there any other indication it was the BOV? Should I just switch over
to a 1G BOV?

I really dont want to heavily MOD this car since I need it to last another
3-4 years. Plus, its fast enough as it is for me. ;) Gotta keep out of
trouble.

mb 97 VR-4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 12:30:57 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Off Topic: 996 Turbo and some little WI update
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This was probably the new Porsche GT3 :-) All the new 9xx models do have the
Boxter front (urgh !) now and interior close to this style. It is not
available in the States as it is not "clean" enough. Power is rated at 360
DIN hp but only 370Nm of torque (compared to my 507Nm from the dyno). It has
a fixed wing and wide tires too (look at http://www.porsche.de)

Of course Digit Power in Switzerland already added a turbo the it and pushed
power up to 470 DIN hp and tourque of around 540Nm. The thing runs 320km/h
(gulp). Therefore it is probably the next Carrera Turbo.

Technically is the GT3 the next step and it runned in the 24h of Le Mans
(dunno what group) Power is great as the known boxer engine got a water
jacket now and is not only air/oil cooled. The price is around 200k DM for
the NA and about 20k DM plus for the turbo conversion ... a little over my
budget ;-)

>Hey Roger, how's that water injection system coming along?  Next time
>I'll keep going and meet you in Basel for an install so that I can beat
>him on the way back home!  :-)

Please stay tuned... I'm currently emailing back and forth with ERL as there
are several different setups possible. Also I'll get a pressure sensor for
the water too (yeah, I know .. to much perfectionism). I'll install one jet
in the hard pipe mounted at the front head and one in an extra pipe I'm
gonna place in the other pipe. Another option would be to install one larger
jet at the y-pipe but I guess the plastic is not that good for this :( Of
course the jets can also be installed in the IC outlets (a tap is included
in the kit) but you know how good access to the stuff is :(((

The pump an manifold are smaller than expected but I'll probably will mount
everything on a mounting plate. I have not yet decided definitely.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 12:58:27 1999
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Message-Id: <199962815554241@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
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Can anyone here tell me what would cause carbon to build up in my throttle body until the throttle won't close completely?
This recently happened, the dealer cleaned it out and everything was fine but now my idle is bouncing like just before the
throttle stuck partially open. I have a 92 R/T TT w/ Borla cat back,Alamo Motorsports DP, K&N FIPK, etc..

I'm thinking of taking off the plenum and cleaning the whole thing out.

P.S. This is a "new" long block w 2K miles on it. It ran for 1,700 break-in miles on one turbo before they diagnosed the
problem.

Thanks in advance
RAM

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 13:16:23 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 22:13:58 +0200
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>Can anyone here tell me what would cause carbon to build up in my throttle
> body until the throttle won't close completely?

Oil in the intake part ! My idle stepper was totally clogged from carbon and
oil deposits after the engine problem. The stuff has been taken apart and
totally cleaned. We have also been able to get the stepper motor runnign
again with just cleaning (mucho $$ saved)

>This recently happened, the dealer cleaned it out and everything was fine
but
> now my idle is bouncing like just before the throttle stuck partially
open.

No way, the TB must be taken fully apart. Otherwise the problem may come
back within two weeks or so :(

> I'm thinking of taking off the plenum and cleaning the whole thing out.

Doesn't help to cure your problem.

>P.S. This is a "new" long block w 2K miles on it. It ran for 1,700 break-in
miles on one turbo
> before they diagnosed the problem.

Huh ? And what happend to the other turbo ? Have you checked the amount of
oil in your intercooler pipes and have the IC been cleanded during the
"rebuild".

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 13:56:55 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
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On 06/28/99 22:13:58 you wrote:

>Oil in the intake part ! My idle stepper was totally clogged from carbon and
>oil deposits after the engine problem. The stuff has been taken apart and
>totally cleaned. We have also been able to get the stepper motor runnign
>again with just cleaning (mucho $$ saved)

Thanks for the quick response Roger:

This is my third engine, (Long Story) I doubt that they took the time to properly clean any of the parts that were put back on
the long block. The mechanic that put in the second engine totally botched the job and later disappeared, They bought me a new
long block and installed it but the front turbo was siezed because of some "debris". They removed it and fixed the problem.
The boost goes to 12-14 PSI on the stock gauge. Although it doesn't have the clean whine like it did before. It is still very
fast. Is it a lot of work to clean the IC's and all associated hardware? Should I request that they do this or do it myself?

Thanks
RAM

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 14:06:32 1999
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References: <3777C516.C3748431@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
Subject: Team3S: Loss of power
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:02:58 -0700
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Help!

I blew my engine under warranty and had the dealer replace it (insufficient
oil pressure + penzoil)

after a brand new short block, my power is about 200HP according to my butt
dyno and V-tech accelerometer (a $2500 version of G-Force) The car tends to
hesitate when cold and at low rpm. it feels sluggish overall.

I have K&N, NGKs @ 0.034" (helped a lot for low end)

Not much power above 4000rpm even at 13psi,

I checked all the usual suspects, ignition timing, cam timing, vacuum hose
routing,  etc.

I suspect I have insufficient fuel pressure. (50psi at boost) I will correct
that soon.

Any ideas?

I am desperate.

Note: I attemted to race my buddys modified Supra TT, we did not notice the
cop behind us. His car was so fast compared to mine when he was passing me,
(145mph vs. 100mph) the cop thought I was standing still, and ticketed only
him.

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 14:08:43 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Clogged cats
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 14:05:12 -0700
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Can anyone describe the symptoms of clogged catalytic converters?

Thanks!

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 14:39:37 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Carbon Build-up in throttle body.
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 23:12:06 +0200
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>This is my third engine, (Long Story) I doubt that they took the time to
properly clean any
>of the parts that were put back on the long block.

I'd remove the rear IC pipe and inspect it for any oil buildup at first.
Also remove the rubber IC hose that routes over the front exhaust parts.
Inspect how much oil is in it.

Unfortunately, if there is too much pressure in the crankcase, some oil is
spilled into the intake (before turbo) This causes a lower octane rating on
one side and clogging up the whole path to the chamber :( But this is what a
is called a closed system and is a must (but not needed, hehe).

You can remove the IC pipe/hoses without much hassle, and clean the stuff
with gas or throttle body cleaner. But the ICs may have a lot of oil in them
(mine still have some) and doing a right job means to remove them and "wash"
them out with gas.

>long block and installed it but the front turbo was siezed because of some
"debris".
> They removed it and fixed the problem.

They removed the turbo to remove the problem, haha ???


> Is it a lot of work to clean the IC's and all associated hardware? Should
I request
> that they do this or do it myself?

I'd first inspect all the piping stuff. then confince them that all further
problems can be prevented by cleaning everything around the ICs once (and
taking the TB apart for a very good cleaning). This may take up some time
but is finally cheaper as a guy that is comming every second week with
another complaint :)

Good luck,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


>
>Thanks
>RAM
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 14:39:38 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team 3S Tech List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clogged cats
Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 23:32:56 +0200
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Something like you already described in your first post. Ratteling, loss of
power, smell like rotten eggs (can also be normal) are typical symptons. The
turbos will not spool up properly, boost is not hold on higher rpms, etc.

>Can anyone describe the symptoms of clogged catalytic converters?


Not easy to find out withotu removing the downpipe and inspecign the stuff.
Also the front precat can easily be removed while the rear one is more
complicated.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 14:47:14 1999
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Date: Mon, 28 Jun 1999 16:53:17 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Clogged cats
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Loss of power mainly. One way to check the cats is to hook up a vacum gage
to the motor and while idling in neutral, press the accelerator about a
third of the way down and hold it there. The vacum should be around 18in hg
while at idle, and when you press the accelerator, it should drop to about
10in hg, then, while holding the accelerator, it should immediately go back
up to 18in hg. If it drops to 10in or so and stays there, the cat is most
likely clogged. Then you will need to determine which cat it is..... Good luck,

Wayne



At 04:05 PM 6/28/99 , you wrote:
>Can anyone describe the symptoms of clogged catalytic converters?
>
>Thanks!


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 19:52:23 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
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I think defective. A 3Si poster replaced his honking BPV with a new
stock valve and his honking stopped. The test is for how long. I have
and knew that I was going to increase my boost from stock levels and the
stock valve won't hold more than 16 lbs. The 1st Gen DSM will hold up to
25 lbs. (so I'm told) and it is tried and true, and for the extra $$ it
is was worth it to me. In your case, the test is will a replacement
stock valve last more than a couple of years? I don't know the answer to
that.

Bruce
3Si #0243

Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> Bruce, I think I may have the same leaky BOV problem. Now is this a
> due to a DEFECTIVE BOV or an inadequate one?
>
> The reason I am asking is because I took my car into the dealership for
> this groaning noise (could also be described as a goose) and told them I
> thought it was the BOV. The thing is I don't have an air filter installed
> yet!
>
> Was there any other indication it was the BOV? Should I just switch over
> to a 1G BOV?
>
> I really dont want to heavily MOD this car since I need it to last another
> 3-4 years. Plus, its fast enough as it is for me. ;) Gotta keep out of
> trouble.
>
> mb 97 VR-4
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Mon Jun 28 22:59:16 1999
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From: "Michael" <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: VR4 not making enough boost
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 02:04:21 -0400
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I'm not sure if it's just the humidity in Atlanta right now, but I think I'm
having problems with developing boost.  I used to keep my DSBC set around
15/70 with the warning at .98 bar.  With those settings, I could always get
it to peak around 1.00 bar.  Lately I can't get my boost over .93 with any
settings.  My first guess is a leak somewhere, but I can't find it if so.
Am I on the right track, is there an easy way to find a leak (pressurize the
system with the car off somehow)?

Michael
98 VR4, Blitz DSBC, K&N, Borla cat-back

BTW, it could just be weather related, as I haven't been driving hard or
paying attention to the boost for a couple of months, and the humidity has
soared. since then.

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 00:27:55 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: VR4 not making enough boost
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 09:14:59 +0200
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Hey Michael, I can't remember but I think we already discussed your setup
some times ago and I'm not sure if you made any changings due to our
findings.

Anyways, a G15/R70 should result in about 1.15kg/cm2 as the difference
between an R50 and R70 is big ! I had to increase ratio by 2 points over my
normal settings to achieve the same results in the higher summer
temperatures. I currently run G20/R54 with peak of 1.07 and warning at 1.04
with -3.

Some thoughts :
- Is the stock solenoid out of the path ?
- Try to set my G20/R54 or someone elses wit the 9B and compare the results.
- Increase Gain and check if you feel a difference
- increase of humidity can reduce the desired result easily by 0.5kg/cm2
- this is why the DSBC has four settings, haha ... you can easily get the
best settings for any ambient :)

If you have the possibility, put a temperature wire-probe into the y-pipe
and measure the intake air temperature. With a higher temperature the ratio
must be increased a little to get the same results.

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


-----Original Message-----
From: Michael <mdorsey@mindspring.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Dienstag, 29. Juni 1999 07:57
Subject: Team3S: VR4 not making enough boost


>I'm not sure if it's just the humidity in Atlanta right now, but I think
I'm
>having problems with developing boost.  I used to keep my DSBC set around
>15/70 with the warning at .98 bar.  With those settings, I could always get
>it to peak around 1.00 bar.  Lately I can't get my boost over .93 with any
>settings.  My first guess is a leak somewhere, but I can't find it if so.
>Am I on the right track, is there an easy way to find a leak (pressurize
the
>system with the car off somehow)?
>
>Michael
>98 VR4, Blitz DSBC, K&N, Borla cat-back
>
>BTW, it could just be weather related, as I haven't been driving hard or
>paying attention to the boost for a couple of months, and the humidity has
>soared. since then.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 00:27:57 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 09:30:08 +0200
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All this BPV stuff makes me thinking. The thing is such an uncomplicated
mechanic thing, that I just can't see how it can get defective. Of course,
over the years, the spring can get weaker (as also the wastegate actuator
springs do !!) but this seems not to be a real problem.

Anyway, what if the problem can simply be eliminated by removing the stuff
and installing it again ? This is the typical dealer effect as they taking
the stuff apart, find the stuff is in good condition, putting it back
together and the problem was solved. And the cause for the problem was maybe
only the BPV mounted 1 or 2 mm deeper into the intake or they cut the vacuum
line by 5 mm as they screwed the front part when taking it off.

I'd give this a try, removing and cleaning the stuff and putting together
with some small changes, i.e. cutting the BPV hose a few mm (if long enough)
as well as the vacuum lines and mounting the BPV a little deeper or less
(depending on the original installation.

Hope this is the cheapest fix :)

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT (never had any honking sound)

PS: I never noticed that the stock BPF cannot hold boost over 16psi.
Remember I runned boost over 19-20psi (no comment please) and after
installing the BOV I just felt a slight better response when shifting but
nothing more.

>I think defective. A 3Si poster replaced his honking BPV with a new
>stock valve and his honking stopped. The test is for how long. I have
>and knew that I was going to increase my boost from stock levels and the
>stock valve won't hold more than 16 lbs. The 1st Gen DSM will hold up to
>25 lbs. (so I'm told) and it is tried and true, and for the extra $$ it
>is was worth it to me. In your case, the test is will a replacement
>stock valve last more than a couple of years? I don't know the answer to
>that.


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 06:42:25 1999
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 09:42:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Porsche Upgrade calipers?
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Hello all,

   I know this has come up before, but could someone provide me with a
little info about the Porsche brake set-up for our cars?

In particular, I was curious about what parts would have to be replaced,
if any cutting was needed, and also if any special brackets would have to
be fabricated?

Also, what Porsce model would the calipers be from?

Thank you for your time and assistance.

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
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At 09:30 AM 6/29/99 +0200, R.G. wrote:
>All this BPV stuff makes me thinking. The thing is such an uncomplicated
>mechanic thing, that I just can't see how it can get defective. Of course,
>over the years, the spring can get weaker (as also the wastegate actuator
>springs do !!) but this seems not to be a real problem.
>
This reminds me of earlier this year, when I shared pit space with a Eagle
Talon during the Porsche event at Heartland Park. He had been running
strong all weekend, pulling 16 psi and running with the big dogs but then
suddenly  lost power. We looked everywhere for loose hoses, blown pipes,
disconnected wires, and pulled the plugs looking for clues. Nothing. The
car ran fine, it was just down on power. Fearing internal damage, he pulled
up stakes and drove it home.

Turns out that his waste gate had been stuck closed all these years. The
rigors of running it at a track finally broke the crud loose inside the
waste gate and it opened for the first time in years, dropping his boost
down to 10 psi, and cutting his power by half. He has since readjusted his
boost controller to work with a now-functioning waste gate and he's back in
business.

Rich/old poop/94 VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 06:54:23 1999
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From: Merritt <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porsche Upgrade calipers?
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>
>   I know this has come up before, but could someone provide me with a
>little info about the Porsche brake set-up for our cars?
>
Brad Bedell carries the kit. Check out his home page:
http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
or e-mail him at bbedell@austin.rr.com

Rich/old poop/94 VR4/somebody stop me!

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 07:29:22 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Porsche Upgrade calipers?
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>Brad Bedell carries the kit. Check out his home page:


NONONO, Brads setup is the large Brembo brake kit and is not much related to
any Porsche things.

The calipers in the Porsche kit are Porsche designed. They are made by
Brembo (aluminum 4-pistons calipers with special Porsche treatment),
includes pistons seals and special pistons materials to avoid seizure which
would occur on any Brembo caliper purchased over the counter. The Porsche
kit contains stock parts used on the 993 Bi-Turbo and MovIt in Germany
created the bolts and brackets for an universal application. The original
page from Germany can be found at : http://www.movit.de/rahmen/movit.htm

The US distributor is Ultimate Garage :
http://www.ultimategarage.com/bigbrake1.html

Price is about $2800 for the front setup (gulp)

Happy braking,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 08:17:12 1999
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 10:23:19 -0500
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Wayne <wala@hypertech-inc.com>
Subject: Team3S: Eibach springs for sale....
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Hey everybody, i forgot to mention the springs are for AWD TT models
only......$200 including shipping

Wayne
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 09:26:20 1999
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>
To: "TEAM 3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Porsche Upgrade calipers?
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 11:25:04 -0500
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The calipers I used are from a Porsche 993 twin turbo.

They retail for about 400.00 each.  I had to fabricate brackets and brake
lines to make them work.

I chose the Porsche caliper over the "over the counter" Brembo due to the
reasons Roger listed below.

Not to mention rebuild parts are as close as your local Porsche dealer.


Brad
Check out my home page:   http://home.austin.rr.com/overboost/
> E-Mail: bbedell@austin.rr.com ICQ#  3612682

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com] On Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Tuesday, June 29, 1999 9:32 AM
To: TEAM 3S List
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porsche Upgrade calipers?

>Brad Bedell carries the kit. Check out his home page:


NONONO, Brads setup is the large Brembo brake kit and is not much related to
any Porsche things.

The calipers in the Porsche kit are Porsche designed. They are made by
Brembo (aluminum 4-pistons calipers with special Porsche treatment),
includes pistons seals and special pistons materials to avoid seizure which
would occur on any Brembo caliper purchased over the counter. The Porsche
kit contains stock parts used on the 993 Bi-Turbo and MovIt in Germany
created the bolts and brackets for an universal application. The original
page from Germany can be found at : http://www.movit.de/rahmen/movit.htm


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 09:44:18 1999
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Reply-To: <mattj@fallon.com>
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 11:43:28 -0500
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> Turns out that his waste gate had been stuck closed all these years. The
> rigors of running it at a track finally broke the crud loose inside the
> waste gate and it opened for the first time in years, dropping his boost
> down to 10 psi, and cutting his power by half. He has since readjusted his
> boost controller to work with a now-functioning waste gate and
> he's back in business.

If it was a 1st gen Talon, most likely the clip that holds the actuator arm
on the wastegate lever just came off.  If the wastegate had been stuck
closed, he would've gotten almost 24 psi of boost near 3000 RPM, enough to
destroy the motor real quick on pump gas, not to mention it would fuel-cut
severely in an attempt to save the motor (unless he had VPC or TMO ECU
mods).

I don't think the positioning of the stock CBV corresponds to the honking
noise...  Seems like there are too many cars doing it, and we can't seem to
get rid of it with the stock valve.  Mine doesn't open just with blowing air
into it, so I think the original poster's stock CBV was likely bad, making
the problem that much worse.  I've taken mine off the car a couple times,
and replaced it with the necks of the CBV far into the hoses, shallow into
the hoses with no effect.  I'm either going to buy the 1G DSM valve from
Buschur or else try to hook the Blitz up without the stock valve in the loop
(just plugging the hoses leading to it).

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 11:15:53 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@austin.rr.com>,
        "TEAM 3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
        "Merritt" <merritt@cedar-rapids.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Porsche Upgrade calipers?
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>The calipers I used are from a Porsche 993 twin turbo.


Sorry Brad & Rich, I was wrong ... the caliper is the same as used in the
MovIt Porsche setup (I had the info at home, my fault !!!) Good choice for
sure :))

>They retail for about 400.00 each.  I had to fabricate brackets and brake
>lines to make them work.


Don't forget to get also good rotors :(( More $$$$

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 11:18:55 1999
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 14:17:48 EDT
Subject: Team3S: AUTOCROSS!!!!
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Hello all,
I cannot believe no one has taken me up on the autocross event in
south Florida. Well, its this weekend anyone want to enter drop me a line.

Wei-Lik Liem
(Disappointed)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 11:25:28 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 20:21:57 +0200
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>the hoses with no effect.  I'm either going to buy the 1G DSM valve from
>Buschur or else try to hook the Blitz up without the stock valve in the
loop
>(just plugging the hoses leading to it).

If you choose ONLY the Blitz or any other non-sequential BOV you'll notice
an annoying behaviour either when lifting the throttle a little or when
cruising. With the Blitz you must have the stock BPV in place. It will
release the low-med pressure while the BOV msut be adjusted to release only
high pressure.

I do have the HKS SBOV and it is sequential. Unfortunately, even the first
chamber releases too much pressure and only the step to the second chamber
can be adjusted :( Adjustment is easy but finding the right setting is hard
:((

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 11:48:47 1999
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From: Kevin Schappell <kevin@pacarsearch.com>
To: "'Stealth'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Dual Turbo Timer wiring help
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 14:47:57 -0400
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I installed my dual turbo timer and there is an extra white wire hanging from the interface harness.  Is this for the clutch safety switch? ( white wire on the smaller connector into the control box) Everything works great and I spliced in the emergency brake switch but did not bother with the others.  Is there a real need for the added safety?  I am not planning on using the timer if I am parked on a hill.

Thanks,
Kevin
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 12:12:17 1999
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 15:12:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Bembro, Stillen, Porsche -what about baer-
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Hello all,

   Since I have been on the "brake kick" of late, I know that many of you
have tried and checked out various brake set-ups for the 3/S cars.

Just out of curiousity, has anyone checked out baer? (www.baer.com)

I know they do not make a unit specifically for our cars, but they do
produce 6-piston, 13.5"+ units for various applications.

Just a thought.

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 12:20:32 1999
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From: Joshua <joshua@princelaw.com>
To: "'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Question about stock Boost Controller
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 15:12:38 -0400
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Ok, finally after 6 months of working on my 94 vr-4 which had been in an
accident before I bought it, is supposed to be done this week sometime.  I
had a boost controller and I know where to hook all the lines up but I am
not sure with regards to how to block off the stock solenoid.  Any
information would be greatly appreciated. 
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 12:49:51 1999
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 12:50:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: George Kuo <amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bembro, Stillen, Porsche -what about baer-
To: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>,
        TEAM 3S List <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
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Hi Dennis,

  I think it all depends on how much you want to spent on your brake
upgrade.  There are mild to wild setups available for our car; just
depends on what you can afford. Give us your budget and maybe someone
from the list can give you some advice.

  Regards,

George
'92 RT TT


--- "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
>    Since I have been on the "brake kick" of late, I
> know that many of you
> have tried and checked out various brake set-ups for
> the 3/S cars.
>
> Just out of curiousity, has anyone checked out baer?
> (www.baer.com)
>
> I know they do not make a unit specifically for our
> cars, but they do
> produce 6-piston, 13.5"+ units for various
> applications.
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Regards,
>    Dennis
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 12:57:54 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Groaning noise at highway speeds
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I'm trying to get my dealer to remedy the groaning noise @ highway speeds
which a few of you have diagnosed as a defective BOV. However, the service
manager is saying he drove some other VR4s and the noise may be normal.
How can I get them to repair this under warranty? Is there something
official I can send him?



For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 13:21:47 1999
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Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 16:21:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Dennis G. Bretton " <dbretton@cs.uml.edu>
To: Mike Baldwin <mbaldwin@eecs.tufts.edu>
cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Groaning noise at highway speeds
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> which a few of you have diagnosed as a defective BOV. However, the service
> manager is saying he drove some other VR4s and the noise may be normal.
> How can I get them to repair this under warranty? Is there something
> official I can send him?

I personally do not know of anything official, 
However, have you tried to shift the burden of proof?
Have him produce a notice from Mitsubishi stating that this is a "normal"
noise. 

Furthermore, the noise may be "normal", but that does not mean that it
should happen.  It's normal for a Ford to have the tranny hit the dumper
after 30k miles, but that doens't mean it should happen.

Regards,
   Dennis


For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 13:30:55 1999
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From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Groaning noise at highway speeds
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 15:30:08 -0500
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> I'm trying to get my dealer to remedy the groaning noise @ highway speeds
> which a few of you have diagnosed as a defective BOV. However, the service
> manager is saying he drove some other VR4s and the noise may be normal.
> How can I get them to repair this under warranty? Is there something
> official I can send him?

Just because other VR4's do it doesn't mean it is normal.  It means there
are a bunch of crappy CBV's out there that should be replaced.  During part
throttle operation, the CBV should be tightly closed and not be making
noises like that.  The only time it should be open at all is when there's
positive pressure before the throttle plate and negative pressure behind the
plate (manifold side).  Any behavior other than this is sub-optimal.

Out of curiosity, what year vehicles is this occurring on?  If yours makes
(or made) the "goose" noise, e-mail me the year of your car and I'll compile
a list and post the results so we don't clutter up the List.  Maybe we can
narrow this down some.  My '94 VR4 never did it, and my friend's '91 doesn't
do it either.

If I was talking with that service manager, I think I'd mention that a
$45,000-$65,000 technological wonder-car probably shouldn't make noises that
sound like a goose, particularly at part throttle.  Sometimes I have to
check to make sure I didn't accidentally hit the horn button because it is
so loud in the convertible!

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
mattj@fallon.com

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 14:04:58 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Groaning noise at highway speeds
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Mike,

Are you sure your noise is the same as ours? The noise we experience is
under light to moderate acceleration, not heavy, and occurs at all
speeds, not just highway speeds. My noise occurred between 3" vacuum and
10 psi boost with heaviest occurrences at 2-3 psi boost.

Bruce
3Si #0243
Former Honker

Mike Baldwin wrote:
>
> I'm trying to get my dealer to remedy the groaning noise @ highway speeds
> which a few of you have diagnosed as a defective BOV. However, the service
> manager is saying he drove some other VR4s and the noise may be normal.
> How can I get them to repair this under warranty? Is there something
> official I can send him?
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 14:10:13 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Groaning noise at highway speeds
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I hear it at moderate acceleration at highway speeds/gears (5th/6th), but
lately have heard it in 3rd and 4th.

I haven't noticed what boost it occurs at. Is there anyone in the Boston
area who has a VR4 who has had this problem who wouldn't mind lending an
ear for a half hour? Or maybe someone has a WAV file?

I'll try checking the boost level when I get my car back.

PS What other problems could a GROANING sound be attributed to ? ;/

On Tue, 29 Jun 1999, Bruce Body wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Are you sure your noise is the same as ours? The noise we experience is
> under light to moderate acceleration, not heavy, and occurs at all
> speeds, not just highway speeds. My noise occurred between 3" vacuum and
> 10 psi boost with heaviest occurrences at 2-3 psi boost.
>
> Bruce
> 3Si #0243
> Former Honker

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 14:59:11 1999
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Reply-To: <mattj@fallon.com>
From: "Matt Jannusch" <mattj@fallon.com>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Groaning noise at highway speeds
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 16:58:25 -0500
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> I hear it at moderate acceleration at highway speeds/gears (5th/6th), but
> lately have heard it in 3rd and 4th.

If it is more of a groaning noise and not a "honking" noise like a goose at
certain light throttle positions, then we are probably talking about
different symptoms.  A groaning noise would more likely be a drivetrain
problem.

> PS What other problems could a GROANING sound be attributed to ? ;/

Generally if it happens all the time it would be a transfer case.  If it is
in certain gears, it could be the transaxle.  Have the dealer check/change
fluids in both and see if that helps.  If either is low, that is likely (and
hopefully!) the cause and topping them off should help.

-Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm

From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 15:28:02 1999
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From: Curt Gendron <curt_gendron@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: New problem, back suspension
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 17:28:09 CDT
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Alright,

Since you guys seem to be doing well with fixing my problems, here is
another one.

This problem is with my back suspension.  Probably a U-joint or something.
It started to develop during one of my 13 clutch dumps at the dragstrip last
month.  When doing a clutch dump or going over a speed bump just perfectly,
a loud thud can be heard in the rear end.  Almost a popping sound.  I know
it has something to do with the suspension or a u-joint or something.  What
could be the problem and what should I check out?  And how do I fix it? 
This problem doesn't occur very often.  And if I'd lay off dumping the
clutch, it would probably never happen.  I know its hard on the car, so
don't preach to me about that.  ;)

Thanks,
Curt G
95 R/T TT
and Author of Minnesota 3/S at:
http://www.mn3s.org


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 16:30:25 1999
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From: "R.G." <robby@freesurf.ch>
To: "Team3S List" <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: "Richard Lamb" <erl@aquamist.co.uk>
Subject: Team3S: ERL Water Injection (Install update)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 1999 01:28:25 +0200
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Hey Friends,

I had a creative day and a great conversation with Richard from ERL who
helps me with my technical questions. And you know, there are always a lot
:))

I have planned to install at least the pump infront the K&N filter. Well,
the planned space for the pump and the ERL manifold is just perfect. No
bracket must be created and only a small aluminum plate for the manifold
will help to hold it in place. Also the water lines will be pretty short as
either the y-pipe is pretty close as well as the IC tubings are.

Have a look at my temporary installation page under : (sorry, the server
sits in Switz.)

http://homepage.swissonline.ch/3000gt/water_injection.html

The position of the jets and the decision to take one or two jets is not yet
fixed. It seems that the plastic y-pipe is strong enough for an M8 thread
and It's maybe worth to give it a try :)

I keep you updated,
Roger, Switzerland
93'3000GT TT


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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 16:43:24 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Question about stock Boost Controller
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>not sure with regards to how to block off the stock solenoid.  Any
>information would be greatly appreciated.

Easy : The vacuum hose going down to the H-connector from the solenoid valve
shoud be removed from the valve and capped (it is maybe the lower one). Also
cap the now open port of the valve. That's it :))

Regards,
Roger
93'3000GT TT

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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 19:35:28 1999
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Honking goose/leaky BOV
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Mike;

Jim, one of our co founder/admins had this problem awhile back. I believe it was more
annoying than it was actually a fault/ failing BOV.  He replaced his BOV with an
aftermarket unit (I believe) just to get rid of the noise, but as with many who have gone
this route, found little improvement in performance (limited to 15psi) but a big
improvement in the annoyance factor. There was some discussion about that time, that the
resonance was set up across the mouth of a tube inside,  and that some BOV's resonated and
some did not from day one. Possibly simply altering the mouth of the tube might change
this honking.

Best

Darc



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From owner-stealth-3000gt  Tue Jun 29 21:28:54 1999
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Subject: Team3S: Aftermarket brake master cylinder
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 1999 21:27:52 -0700
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Anyone every replace their brake master cylinder with something other than
Mitsu (or Dodge)?  If so, what brand, are you happy with it, $ ?

Problem is, Mitsu is about $350, aftermarket $250.

Ryan P

For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm