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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Dec 1 00:20:52
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From:
"=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=" <
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To: <
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Subject:
RE: Team3S: Engine control system
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:18:42
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Dave Allison Wrote: <
dave@languys.com>
>Will there be
a version for 1st gen cars also?
Dave, As my car is a first gen (93)
the system (prototype) will be built on a first gen 3000GT. I asked about the
sensors for 94+ because I don't know anyone in Sweden that have a 94+ car that I
can examine. I guess that the guys that have 94+ cars are more interested in a
system like this because they cant use the HKS VPC system. My goal is that the
system will work on all 3S cars 91-99.
/Mikael
For
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
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Date:
Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:29:56 +0000
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: Radio Interference Question
References: <
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Dennis,
Your problem is very
common with digital cell phones like we are using in
Europe. For me it's like
a remote ringer in the stereo when the sound is louder
than the cell phones
ringer ;-)
> So my question is: do any of you have any suggestions on
how to eliminate
> this thumping? Is there a filter I can/should
install? Should I replace
> the phone? I've talked to the
company I bought the phone from, but they
> haven't been much help
yet.
Well, I asked the same and what helped a little was to make a better
ground
connection to the amplifiers case. But if the antenna points towards
the stereo
(when lying in the armrest) an incomming call or switching to
another network is
very noticeable.
Sorry, no solution on
this.
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Dec 1 00:41:38 1998
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From: "R.G." <
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Re: Team3S: RE: Anti-lag devices (WAS: Engine control system)
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000101be1d01$082a1120$0500a8c0@beast.kingdom.com>
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> Are there other methods?
A
rally company in Switzerland developed a well working turbo-hybrid system
and
incooperates a heat resistant e-motor to the turbine. Of course the
design is
very different of the turbine housing but it works good.
Unfortunately, no space
in our cars :(
The system has been built into
a Celica GT-Four and works wonders. The e-motor
is controlled by the ECU that
also acts as the BC and in low rpms as well as
during shifting the turbine
speed will be held up to provide the appropriate
boost when needed (sounds
great). The system uses an external wastegate as well
as a good BOV system
that is also controlled by the ECU (boost is measured
before and after the TB
and the BOV is controlled to release too much bosot
whenever necessary). Very
tricky.
Cheers, Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Dec 1 03:18:53 1998
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comSubject:
Team3S: Octane rating for VR4
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Can anyone tell me the preffered octane
rating for the VR4, imparticular
when running a higher boost. Barry had
suggested to use a highest
quality fuel available. After emailing Shell in
Australia they tell me
their premium unleaded fuel, which is what I have been
using has a
rating of 96. They didnt advise as to how they arrived at this
figure.
Any thoughts?
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Dec 1 04:05:34 1998
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From: "Bob Fontana" <
bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Need help identifying part
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:05:11
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With Mike's and Barry's help, we figured
out what those bushings are -- they
go around the bolts that connect the
shift cables to the shift cable bracket
which attaches to the bell
housing. Thanks.
-Bob
> Hi all. I ended up with
only 3 parts left over in my whole rebuild.
> They are these rubber coated
washers that I had put into a
> freezer bag along
> with the 2
shifter cable cotter pins and labeled it "Shifter
>
cables". Well,
> when I try to put even one of these
washer/bushing things on to the shift
> lever attached to the gearbox, it
takes up so much room (side to
> side) that
> I can't get the cotter
pin on. It doesn't press fit into the
> shifter cable
> end
itself (or doesn't seem to). I was wondering if you remember
> where
they
> go. Also, the fact that there were only 3 rather than 4 is
sort of
> odd...did I (or some previous flunkie) lose one?
>
>
The washer itself has a flat part like a normal washer but then has a
>
smaller ring around the center on just one side that looks like
> it ought
to
> press fit into the shift cable end. The outer edge of the
washer
> is covered
> with rubber.
>
>
-Bob
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
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Aso8@aol.comMime-Version: 1.0
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Re: AFC vs. VPC
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I'm also using the VPC (alone no GCC)
with 550cc injectors for street & strip
driving.
At my street setting
of 1 bar the car runs perfect and is very civilized. For
the track setting of
1.6 bars I found it necessary to upgrade the ECU (GT
Alleys ECU). It performs
extremely well with the new ECU for both street &
strip. Really, very
happy with it.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 11/30/98 5:51:25 PM
Pacific Standard Time,
xwing@execpc.comwrites:
<<
Subj: Team3S: Re: AFC vs. VPC
Date: 11/30/98 5:51:25 PM Pacific Standard
Time
From:
xwing@execpc.com
(xwing)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comReply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comTo:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.comR.G.
wrote:
> > Apex'i AFC and the HKS VPC?
> > Why is it that
everyone seems to be only using the AFC?
> Cost ! AFC "only"
$260 while VPC around $800!
> Of course you'll also get speed converted
system then; AFC keeps
> restrictive stock MAS.
> > What
pros and cons of these units?
> AFC cheapest/easiest fuel adjustment part
available. Easy to tune
> in as it only intercepts the MAS signal and
converts it on rpm basis.
> is very WOT related; my results were good
there. I have no bad
> experience it does not give all what is needed.
> VPC and MASC both remove restrictive stock MAS. VPC
> converts to
speed density while MASC still air-density. The latter
> is maybe better
for all-day driven cars while VPC is very track-oriented. I
> think the
VPC is also useable on the street with proper tuning-in and the
help
>
of the GCC or GCC II. I think
> reprogramming VPC EPROM for each new
mod is too much
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
I have good
experience/success with VPC+GCC. Part of reason AFC is used
is that for
94+ the VPC can't be used unless modified (different molex
connectors on
94+). I don't know of anyone who has put VPC on 94+,
prolly someone
has. VPC does get rid of restrictive MAS device, so
improving
output of turbo (higher pressure available to inlets of
turbo
compressors). The stock computer uses the O2 sensors to adjust
the mix
when at partthrottle, so any adjustments you make with it (OR with
an
AFC or MASC) are partly ignored by ECU computer...AFC can adjust SO
wide
a range it can go outside stock computer's adjust RANGE which is
why
people can 'shut the engine off' by leaning AFC out so badly at
idle
etc. BUT the main place these adjusts come into play is at
wideopen
throttle, when computer is ignoring O2 sensor and only running
on
internal map, so VPC/AFC/MASC settings are used in
their
purest/unadulterated-by-O2 sensor-adjustments form.
The VPC
works well on the street. My car drives normally like any other
car,
except for the occasional wandering idle speed. It also works
great for
racing; you can also speak to Dave Buschur at
Buschurracing.com who always
has, and continues to, swear by the VPC as
his fuel management device of
choice for DSM's. Todd Day's datalogger
would be a great thing to
have... I have never had to change chips for
different mods. I
got one chip which was 'leaner' and one that is
'richer'.
Jack
Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Dec 1 10:49:58 1998
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From:
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: RE: Anti-lag devices (WAS: Engine control system)
Date: Tue, 1
Dec 1998 19:49:37 +0100
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The device/funtion I talk about (for full boost at
start) is combination =
of software/ECU and a mod that you to to the
intake/trottle body. It's =
an electro magnetic switch that works almost like
a BOV but the other =
way around. When waiting for start the boost build up
against a "plate" =
before the trottle body. During this time the
air that goes in to the =
motor is regulated so only atmospheric pressure is
obtained. Then when =
the clutch is released the electro magnetic switch let
the builded up =
boost pass into the engine and off you go. The computer/ecu
holds the =
RPM at a preset value before the clutch is released. This is a
"start =
only" and is used by almost all rally cross cars in
europe.=20
This is not the same type of system that Barry and Roger is
talking =
about. The so called bang-bang system that are used on rally cars
to =
keep the boost up during shifts and braking is not funtional on a street
=
car. As Barry said with a bang-bang system the exhaust will only hold on
=
to the punichment for a few minutes.=20
I will provide more info as
soon as I have more information about the =
system and all it's components. I
would be glad if you all can send me =
your "wish lists" on things
that you want to have in the system. For =
example: is it a good thing to
have boost control or do we all want to =
continue with our boost controlers
that easily can be changed without a =
computer??!!?=20
I don't have
all information so please let me hear all your suggestions.
//Mikael
Akesson
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4------
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------
=_NextPart_000_01BE1D63.BADBFE20--
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web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 01:16:23 1998
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From: "Errin D. Humphrey" <
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Re: Team3S: Turbo advice...
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Chris Winkley wrote:
> Second,
I want to thank Ying Hau Wang, Erin, and friends for the hospitality
>
last night. Sadly enough Hau is departing for Brazil this morning. I can't say
I've
> ever
> met a group of young folks so knowledgeable about our
cars, or so polite and
> helpful. Hau's departure brings sadness, but he's
headed off to be engaged.
> I wish him the best of
everything.
>
> Erin, please send me your e-mail address, so we can
keep in touch about
> tires/wheels and further exhaust mods.
Chris,
it was a great pleasure for me to meet you too. :-) You
should
all know that Chris Winkley is a great guy. He's a candid fellow
with
a good sense of humor, an enthusiasm for our cars, and an
intelligent
outlook on many things. His girlfriend Terry is also very
friendly. There
was a bit of joking about the slight age difference
between our age
groups (naive low-20-somethings vs. thoughtful 30-plussers),
but you
should know, Chris, that it made no difference to me. Where you
are
in life matters much less than how you live it. ^_^
--Errin
Humphrey
"Play it, Sam. Play .. 'As Time Goes
By.'"
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 07:28:52 1998
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Team3S: Re: Team3S Digest V1 #37
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This may be the most irritating and
amatuer question I could ask, but
what would be the best place (web page?)
to get Stealth upgrades? I
looked through Nexus Motorsports, but I was
wondering what other ones
there are or if there are better ones? I was
planning on adding a good
turbo kit, exhaust..the whole 9 yards practically.
Thanks :)
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at
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http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 08:42:14 1998
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From:
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <
vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: "
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Team3S: whos car?
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:41:48 +0100
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Does anyone know anything about the
3000GT in these pictures??
It's probably modified alot and not just the
outside, notice the huge front mount Intercooler. I wonder if that is a carbon
fiber hood.
http://members.aol.com/HyBrID111/3000gt.html/Mikael
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 09:25:45 1998
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36658593.4895EB1A@swissonline.ch>
Date:
Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:23:15 +0000
From: "R.G." <
robby@swissonline.ch>
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Behind the frontier
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Re: Team3S: Re: Team3S Digest V1 #37
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19981202152849.27204.qmail@hotmail.com>
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Chien from Nexus is very helpful and he
was the one who figured out how to
install the Blitz stuff (Mikael and me). I
always speak with him at first and
often when doing the deal :)
Try
these links :
New and used parts :
http://home.hiwaay.net/~gclayton/dsmtrader/David
Buschurs site :
http://www.buschurracing.com/ (he's
selling the Datalogger
too)
Extreme Motorsports :
http://www.extrememotorsports.com/
(never got an answer
from them)
Alamo Motorsports :
http://alamomotorsports.com/ (the source
of the good dp)
Zen Motorsports :
http://www.zen-motorsports.com/-----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N
FIPK,Magnecor wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,
Borla,OZ
Mito2,Yoko AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Visit my
homepage under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htmFrom
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 09:35:43 1998
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Ahhh, this looks like the FMIC I got
from Brian :) I still don't know how to fit
it in place as I do have the
water reservoir for the lights sprays in the
bumper.
But the front
bumper looks like a Supra :( ... don't like it that
much.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
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Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998
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From: Ricardo Cousar
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Subject: Team3S: Break
Calibers
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Has anyone had a problem with break calibers, I took my
car to the shop
today to get the breaks checked out. I was informed by the
shop that it
would need new calibers. Could anyone explain to me why would it
need
such a thing.
--
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST
Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO 80202-2994
Voice: (303)
624-0803
Home: (719) 573-1775
Fax: (303)
624-1288
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 2 10:24:14 1998
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@texas.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S:Brake Calipers,
Was Break Calibers
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:21:40 -0600
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stealth-3000gt
You should really ask the shop why they are bad. If
they are unwilling to
explain, find another shop.
Calipers can hang
up, get frozen from rust etc. Generally it is from
neglect. (Not
changing your brake fluid every two years) Sooner if you
live in a
humid climate.
> Brad
>
> Check out my home
page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail:
bbedell@texas.net ICQ# 3612682
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of Ricardo Cousar
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 12:16
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Break
Calibers
Has anyone had a problem with break calibers, I took my car to
the shop
today to get the breaks checked out. I was informed by the shop that
it
would need new calibers. Could anyone explain to me why would it
need
such a thing.
--
Ricardo Cousar
U S WEST
Communications
930 15th Street Denver, CO 80202-2994
Voice: (303)
624-0803
Home: (719) 573-1775
Fax: (303)
624-1288
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
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Subject: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
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When you relocate the battery into the
trunk, do you need a special battery
case (sealed and vented) because it will
be located in the passenger cabin
(hatchback vrs a true
trunk)?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 2 11:33:54 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Calipers
(was: Break Calibers)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 11:34:55 -0800
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Richard...
Calipers are normally rebuilt using kits
with new cups and soft parts,
perhaps new pistons if they're badly pitted.
The cylinders can be honed. I'd
be concerned if someone told me I needed all
new calipers and couldn't
explain why.
Looking
forward...Chris
-----Original Message-----
From: Ricardo Cousar
[mailto:rcousar@uswest.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:16
AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Break
Calibers
Has anyone had a problem with break calibers, I took my car to
the shop
today to get the breaks checked out. I was informed by the shop that
it
would need new calibers. Could anyone explain to me why would it
need
such a thing.
Ricardo Cousar
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:41:32 -0700
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I've wondered how to address this one too.
I plan
to relocate my battery before the car gets back on the road but when
I do it
I plan to use a gel-pack style of battery. I don't like the idea
of
hydrogen producing liquid cells in the passenger compartment. I
don't like
the idea of sacrifcing the spare tire but I may end up putting the
battery
there although it could probably go where one of the storage trays
currently
live.
What have others done? Anyone have installation
pictures?
Barry
> -----Original Message-----
> When
you relocate the battery into the trunk, do you need a
> special
battery
> case (sealed and vented) because it will be located in the
passenger cabin
> (hatchback vrs a true trunk)?
>
>
Thanks
>
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
>
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 2 12:32:42 1998
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From: "GT ALLEY"
<thegtalley@email.msn.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: whos
car?
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 12:35:43 -0800
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stealth-3000gt
This car is Joshua Seung's car and is a GT ALLEY car. The
front mount in
this picture is no longer on the car. Instead, we made him a
new front mount
and it covers the ENTIRE front mouth (no gap at ALL). All you
see is
intercooler.
Yes, this is the GT ALLEY carbon fiber hood. This
car is a 91' with the
94'up front end conversion. The car also sports a
Veilside kit from a Supra,
modified to fit along with a Extremor/Veilside
front bumper (split in half).
Thanks,
Brian@
The GT ALLEY
3/S
Performance Central
-----Original Message-----
From: Mikael Åkesson
<vr4@bahnhof.se>
To: 'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998
8:48 AM
Subject: Team3S: whos car?
>Does anyone know anything
about the 3000GT in these pictures??
>
>It's probably modified alot
and not just the outside, notice the huge front
mount Intercooler. I wonder
if that is a carbon fiber
hood.
>
>http://members.aol.com/HyBrID111/3000gt.html
>
>/Mikael
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 2 12:33:18 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery
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stealth-3000gt
In a message dated 12/2/98 2:26:05 PM Eastern Standard
Time,
jefyoung@ix.netcom.com writes:
<< When you relocate the
battery into the trunk, do you need a special battery
case (sealed and
vented) because it will be located in the passenger cabin
(hatchback vrs a
true trunk)?
>>
I have the battery reloacted to the trunk
in my dad's '95 Pont. Formula. We
used a boat battery box (plastic,
very cost effective) which works really
well. Summit sells a similar
type batter box really cheap. Morroso <sp?> has
a really nice box
which is more of an air-tight design, but its more
expensive.
However,
to be NHRA legal you need to have it vented (ie. tubing to the
outside of the
car) and the batter box has to be bolted down using two
specified diameter
thick bolts.. I dont have the NHRA book handy, but I'm sure
someone on the
list can help us out here..!? I also think Turbo magazine came
out with
an issue that listed the NHRA requirements not to long ago....that
sound list
what size we need :).
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth
tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 12:55:06 1998
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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998
12:51:03 -0800 (PST)
From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: whos car?
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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I don't know who exactly drive this
car.. but I seen it on the streets
in Rowland Heights (s. cal). Very clean
and the best 3000 i
seen!
George
---=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?=
<vr4@bahnhof.se> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know anything about
the 3000GT in these pictures??
>
> It's probably modified alot and
not just the outside, notice the
huge front mount Intercooler. I wonder if
that is a carbon fiber hood.
>
>
http://members.aol.com/HyBrID111/3000gt.html
>
> /Mikael
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 2 13:00:57 1998
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From:
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:00:33 +0100
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I relocated my battery to the trunk a few weeks ago. I
use a Optima =
yellow top. This is an expensive battery but it will last
forever =
(allmost) a good thing with the optima is that is totally sealed
and can =
be mounted in any possition even upside down! I have routed 21cm2
cables =
from the trunk to the engine compartment. First I used the chassi as
=
ground but that resulted in a small "bzzz" sound in my stereo so
now I =
have a cable for the ground as well. I have 100 Ah automatic fuse on
the =
battery for security.
I mounted the battery in the back right
corner, I have taken the black =
plastic "box" out and the battery
fits perfectly.
//Mikael Akesson
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey
Young [SMTP:jefyoung@ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:15
PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
When you relocate the battery into the trunk, do you need a
special =
battery
case (sealed and vented) because it will be located in
the passenger =
cabin
(hatchback vrs a true
trunk)?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
=
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the battery
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stealth-3000gt
Maybe we could make a list of pros and cons for relocating
the battery..
These are some Pros I though of..
-Without the
battery box, changing the tranny/clutch would take ~20
less
minutes
-Without the battery box, access to the rear turbo and
associated vacuum lines
is significantly easier (which would make it easier
to pull the wastegates :P
and or check for vacuum leaks)
-Without the
battery box, there is more room for a custom BOV
mounting
location
-Without the battery box, the fuel filter would be
easily accessible
-Without the battery box, there is more room to make a
custom cold-air box
-Without the battery box, for those using the VPC, it is
possible to replace
the stock inlet tubing with a direct tube off each turbo
(which could have its
own, separate air-filter)
-With the batter in the
trunk, it would be subject to less frequent/severe
temperature changes which
could helps its longevity
A few cons...
-expensive (cant skimp out
on cheap cables, it could lead to problems down the
road and low
voltages)
-have to run battery cables to the trunk = added weight
-takes
up even more room in a trunk that really doesn't have much to
start
with
With those pros and cons, it looks like relocating the
battery may bennefit
those who are heavy into racing their Stealth/VR4
(meaning go through clutches
frequently, pull the wastegates at the track,
need more room for custom mods
like larger BOVs,
etc).
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6
Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Message-ID: <01BE1E40.7C6E5BA0@pm2-46.bahnhof.se>
From:
=?iso-8859-1?Q?Mikael_=C5kesson?= <vr4@bahnhof.se>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:09:51 +0100
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A few more PROs:
You can route a fat and short
cable directly to your fuel pump to be =
sure it work at 100%
Wheight
distribution will be better.
I have space enough for a water cooled
intercooler :)
One con is that you have to design a small bracket to hold
the water =
bottle to the windscreen spray thing (can't find the right word
:) but =
that was very easy.
/Mikael Akesson
-----Original
Message-----
From: LotoBoost@aol.com [SMTP:LotoBoost@aol.com]
Sent:
Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:01 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Maybe we could make a list of pros and cons for relocating the
battery..
These are some Pros I though of..
-Without the battery
box, changing the tranny/clutch would take ~20 less
minutes
-Without the
battery box, access to the rear turbo and associated vacuum =
lines
is
significantly easier (which would make it easier to pull the =
wastegates
:P
and or check for vacuum leaks)
-Without the battery box, there is more
room for a custom BOV mounting
location
-Without the battery box, the fuel
filter would be easily accessible
-Without the battery box, there is more
room to make a custom cold-air =
box
-Without the battery box, for those
using the VPC, it is possible to =
replace
the stock inlet tubing with a
direct tube off each turbo (which could =
have its
own, separate
air-filter)
-With the batter in the trunk, it would be subject to less
=
frequent/severe
temperature changes which could helps its
longevity
A few cons...
-expensive (cant skimp out on cheap
cables, it could lead to problems =
down the
road and low
voltages)
-have to run battery cables to the trunk =3D added weight
-takes
up even more room in a trunk that really doesn't have much to
=
start
with
With those pros and cons, it looks like relocating
the battery may =
bennefit
those who are heavy into racing their
Stealth/VR4 (meaning go through =
clutches
frequently, pull the wastegates
at the track, need more room for custom =
mods
like larger BOVs,
etc).
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6
Best mph: 120.7
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
=
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
------
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Message-ID:
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 15:56:01 -0700
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Mikael;
I will be using an Optima
Red Top which is also a sealed unit. Did you run
the cables through the
same channel as the fuel supply and return lines or
did you run them
inside?
Thanks
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
I relocated my battery to
the trunk a few weeks ago. I use a Optima yellow
top. This is an expensive
battery but it will last forever (allmost) a good
thing with the optima is
that is totally sealed and can be mounted in any
possition even upside down!
I have routed 21cm2 cables from the trunk to the
engine compartment. First I
used the chassi as ground but that resulted in a
small "bzzz" sound
in my stereo so now I have a cable for the ground as
well. I have 100 Ah
automatic fuse on the battery for security.
I mounted the battery in the
back right corner, I have taken the black
plastic "box" out and the
battery fits perfectly.
//Mikael Akesson
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
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From
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Date:
Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:02:05 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
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Subject: Team3S: Engine control system wish
list
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Hi Mikael,
> I will provide more info as soon as
I have more information about the system and all it's components. I would be
glad if you all can send me your "wish lists" on things that you want
to have in the system. For example: is it a good thing to have boost control or
do we all want to continue with our boost controlers that easily can be changed
without a computer??!!?
>
> I don't have all information so please
let me hear all your suggestions.
I think boost control would be a good
idea. I like the fact of having
one engine control system since
everything is inter-related. For
example, in lean conditions, the ECS
algorithm could first try to
increase the injector duty cycle, then retard
the timing, then lower the
set boost. If knock is detected, an
appropriate algorithm could also
be invoked (reduce boost?).
Other
items for the wish list:
1) Use a dual solenoid valve like the one Blitz uses
for the DSBC for
highest resolution of control.
2) Have complete data
logging capability for 30 seconds of run time (or
perhaps use some type of
recorder for longer times). Have an interface
that we can analyze the
data on a PC.
3) Include horsepower calculating ability like The Home
Dyno
(http://www.charm.net/~mchaney/homedyno/dynokit.htm)
4) Provide some
type of display(s) like the one used by the TRE MASC.
Maybe have some type
of input too (small keypad or something).
5) Utilize optional additional
sensors such as Air-Fuel and Exhaust Gas
Temperature. Maybe a better
knock sensor too.
6) Package it as a replacement ECU (I imagine that this
would be a lot
of work!) with programable parameters such as rev limiter,
etc. Provide
connections for above displays, sensors, data recorder,
boost solenoid
valve.
As you can tell, I am basically 'wishing' for
one product/system that
would take the place of a G-Force ECU, boost
controller, TRE MASC,
VPC/GCC or AFC, Data logger, Home Dyno, and who knows
what else I
forgot. I hope I'm not wishing for too much! If it
did all this, I'm
sure you'll have many folks lining up, especially if it
will cost less
than $2K.
Good luck,
Ken
--
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Relocating the
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Mikael:
Mikael Åkesson wrote:
>
> I relocated my battery to the trunk a few weeks ago. [...] I have
routed 21cm2 cables from the trunk to the engine
compartment.
<snip>
What are the chances of taking a few
pictures showing the installed
battery and the cable routing/path you used
and posting them (or mailing
them) so those interested can see your
setup? I, for one, would be
*very* interested in doing
this.
Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 2 16:28:39 1998
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From:
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To:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:28:41 -0500
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I'm in the middle of doing a relocation, myself. I'm
using a Black Panther
Predator batterry, mounted in a custom home-made sealed
and vented box.
If you pull the rear trim in the trunk, there is exactly
8" of space between
the rear (metal) wall of the trunk and the hump for
the fuel filler line. My
batterry is about 6" wide, which gives me
1" on either side of the batterry
for airspace and the walls of the box.
The box ended up being about 8" wide
by 10" long, and contains a
0.5" gap all the way around the battery. A 3/4"
vinyl tube vents to
the outside of the car.
I'll have to cut the trim around the box when I
install everything, but I
will not lose any significant trunk space. The box
bolts down to the floor
of the trunk, outside of the fuel tank, above the
passenger's side exhaust
pipe.
I removed the rear windshield washer
fluid resevoir to make space for the
box, and there's a small computer back
there that I relocated to the cavity
where the washer resevoit used to
fit.
I'm going to run the cables up the passenger side of the car through
the
firewall - there's a large wiring tunnel along under the passenger
door.
As a side note, I'm going to run the rear washer fluid line
forwards, and
link it up to the front resevoir, so I'll still have rear
washer fluid. The
line will only have to exend another foot or so - given
where the resevoir
is stock, the original line is pretty long.
So, in
summarry, if you're willing to do the work, you can have a sealed,
externally
vented batterry box without sacrificing any real trunk space.
PICTURES: I
don't own a camera (no joke). But if anyone wants to come by my
place in
Fairfax, VA this weekend and take pictures, everything is
completely
disassembled and in plain view at the moment.
-Ed
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 3 04:42:01 1998
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From:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:39:49 +0100
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Jeffrey Young <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com> Wrote:
Did you run the cables through the same channel as the fuel supply and
return lines or did you run them inside?
>>>
I routed the
cables on the passenger side of the car. Take the plastic panel at the instep
away and just use the tunnel that runs under the floor mat. Then I just layed
the cables under the plasic side interior all the way back to the corner. Be
sure that you don't have any signal cables to the stereo here that will cause
bad sound and generator sounds in the speakers.
Behind the original
possition of the battery there is a hole thru the firewall that I used, I had to
use hand dish wash liquid (word??) on the cables to be able to get them to
"glide" thru the rubber seal in the firewall.
The way that
Edward did his installation is a nicer looking sollution than mine but mine is
alot easier to do and can be relocated again to look stock without any damage to
the interior.
/Mikael
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
battery
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:43:57 +0100
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I'll try to get some pictures during the week end and post
them to my web page. I'll let you guys know when it's ready.
/Mikael
Akesson http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
From: Rich
<rleroy@pacifier.com>
What are the chances of taking a few pictures
showing the installed
battery and the cable routing/path you used and posting
them (or mailing them) so those interested can see your setup? I, for one,
would be *very* interested in doing this.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Break out the
champaign!
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:47:23 -0500
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After a day of fiddling around with my shift linkage, I
was able to find
reverse gear and back the car out of the garage. My
first trip was to the
gas station and then to Dunkin Donuts for a celebratory
"large one, cream
and sugar please". The car runs
perfectly. Perfectly until I blew the
front turbo I/C hose off.
Since it came off the first time I went under
boost, I couldn't get any
readings/impressions of performance. A
seat-of-the-pants impression
would be useless anyway, after driving a Honda
Civic for the last 7
months.
The clutch/gearbox/shift linkage still needs some work. The
2->1 grinding
is gone, but now the clutch feels like there's only about
1" of travel and
it's not disengaging completely. This is
indicated by grinding when I
attempt to put it into 2nd gear while at a dead
stop with the motor running.
There was a little 1->2 grinding as
well. Since that's a new synchro, I'm
sure that a clutch adjustment is
in order.
Also, the factory shop manual appears to be unspecific about
placement of
those bushings I mentioned a couple of days ago.
Since I'm probably
missing one, I'm going to order the whole set from
TallMits and go back
through everything before I hit the gears hard. I
don't want to blow a gear
because of my own stupidity.
So far, I'm
satisfied. All smoke (other than a really bad over-rich
condition)
disappeared 10 minutes after the motor was started the first
time. It
idles perfectly at 850 RPM despite my having removed that entire
cluster of
vacuum hoses from the top of the throttle body and blocked them
all
off. The only little hose left runs from the hidden FPR solenoid to
the
stock FPR. There are a couple of silicone hoses for the BOV, EVC
and
Cartech FPR (which I decided to keep since I've never melted down with
it
installed).
I love the new location of the EGT probe -- tapped
directly into the rear
exhaust manifold. It now shows 1050F cruising in
5th gear at around 1800
RPM. In its previous location, it would muster
only 750 or 800F at that
speed. So, as I suspected, the turbo does in
fact, cool the exhaust around
250 degrees.
Gone is the evap canister
and gone are the 4 hard lines that run from right
before the rear turbo to
the front of the car. Will it pass emissions now?
Who cares? The
EVC actuator line tees off to both actuators with equal
lengths of
hose. I relocated some VPC-related connectors, etc., to
unclutter the
firewall a bit. I liked Brad's "bare bones" look and
decided
to copy it. My engine bay still needs to be cleaned up --
replacing
tattered electrical tape, painting over scratches, getting rid of
dirt,
grease, etc. will be done in the next few days. Then, I'll get
some
pictures of the new setup and put them up on my
site.
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 3 11:31:39 1998
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From:
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To:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Relocating the
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----- M.A. wrote: ---------
The way that Edward
did his installation is a nicer looking sollution than
mine but mine is alot
easier to do and can be relocated again to look stock
without any damage to
the interior.
---------------------------
Quite true. Cutting trim,
relocating computers and fluid resevoirs, and
drilling bolt-holes in the body
make my solution quite a bit more permanent.
-Ed
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 00:55:15 1998
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Hey Bob,
Congrats to the great work (I wish I had a
shop-like garage, hehe).
> Perfectly until I blew the front turbo I/C
hose off.
With the SBOV from HKS I blew off the rubber hose that leads to
the aluminum
tube where the BOV sits on several times. Fortunately, it's
better access as the
hose in the front.
> I love the new location
of the EGT probe -- tapped directly into the rear
> exhaust
manifold. It now shows 1050F cruising in 5th gear at around 1800
>
RPM. In its previous location, it would muster only 750 or 800F at
that
> speed. So, as I suspected, the turbo does in fact, cool the
exhaust around
> 250 degrees.
Aha, this proofes the theory. Have
you made any pictures of it where you tapped
in and do you use aftermarket
headers and turbos ?
What about a tapped line that allows to messure the
pressure in the manifold
before the turbo. This would be great for preventing
any pre-knock situation as
too much back-pressure can cause knock and a
pressure sensor acts more quick
than an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on
the front one as there is more space
available :)
> Gone is the
evap canister and gone are the 4 hard lines that run from right
> before
the rear turbo to the front of the car. Will it pass emissions
now?
Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do everything
to keep the
intake cool and this would be the first one. Unfortunately,
emmission test must
be done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that
blocking the EGR can kill
the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?).
Comments ?
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 02:30:47 1998
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Date: Fri, 04 Dec
1998 21:33:24 +1100
From: Andrew Clark
<chemist1@ozemail.com.au>
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Roger, Barry, Darc & all, I finally got the car back
today with the
boost done, an extra 70+ HP & it runs beatifully.
The
boost increase was achieved by altering the frequencies that
activate the
stock solenoid via the ECU & new plugs & fuel filter were
put
in.
The old plugs were worn down on the tips by 0.5mm & they weren't due
to
be changed for another 13000km (8000miles), so they probably
weren't
helping much in that condition.
The car is a 93 & the stock
pressure was peaking at 9 psi, then fading
to 7 psi WOT.
With this new mod
the pressure peaks at 13.5 psi but holds 12 psi at
WOT. So where the power
was begining to drop away at WOT, it now just
keeps on pulling,... I know
there are alot of guys on this list that are
putting out a hell of alot more
power than this, but jeez I cant beleive
the difference it makes to the
car.
The best thing of all is that the car looks totally stock. I'm
even
running the original air box ( with a K&N replacement filament
)which
means I won't loose my factory warrantye because nothing under the
hood
is different. This will also help when I go to sell the car
because
modified cars in Australia ( I suppose its the same everywhere
)are
harder to sell, & I didn't really want to have to remove a whole lot
of
stuff before I sell it,...which I'm not sure I will be able to now or
if
I do I dont know what I'm going to replace it
with!!
Cheers
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 06:06:51 -0500
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> Aha, this proofes the theory. Have you made any
pictures of it
> where you tapped in and do you use aftermarket headers
and turbos ?
Yes, I have a couple of pictures of it that I will locate
and post.
> What about a tapped line that allows to messure the
pressure in
> the manifold before the turbo. This would be great for
preventing any
> pre-knock situation as too much back-pressure can cause
knock and a
> pressure sensor acts more quick than an EGT probe. I think
I'll do
> this on the front one as there is more space available
:)
There shouldn't be too much of a problem doing it. Especially to
the front
header since there is easier access for drilling and
tapping.
Question: Once you determine that you're in a pre-knock condition
based on
excessive back pressure, what action do you intend to take?
Is
this part of a longer-term engine management project?
> Therefore, you
also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> everything to keep the intake
cool and this would be the first one. >
Unfortunately, emmission test must
be done evry two years. Also my
> mechanic told me that blocking the EGR
can kill the rear pre-cat due > to
the hotter gases (huh ?). Comments
?
My EGR pipe was already blocked but I still had all of the hoses
and
solenoid hooked up. I don't see how blocking the EGR will kill the
rear
pre-cat. If you have a rear pre-cat, there will be some pressure
between
the exhaust manifold and the pre-cat. When the EGR valve is
open, some of
that pressure is relieved into the intake manifold. This
only occurs under
vacuum. If the intake manifold is under pressure
(boost) then the EGR valve
is closed so you don't loose boost out your rear
02/EGR housing.
The purpose of the EGR is to recirculate some of the
warmer exhaust gases
back into the intake manifold to assist in cold start
and engine warm-up.
It also serves as an emissions reducer since cold exhaust
is always
fuel-laden. This is what the mechanic is most likely
referring to. When
your motor is cold, the pre-cat isn't hot enough up
the excess fuel in your
exhaust. Unaltered, it gets to the *main*
catalytic converter. The unburnt
fuel in the exhaust wreaks havoc with
the catalyst, destroying it. I'm not
sure how significant a role your
EGR plays in the elimination/reduction of
unburnt fuel.
If you intend
to run with a main cat, then you must keep your pre-cats.
Otherwise, the main
cat will end up damaged from cold starts.
I'll find those pictures of the
EGT probe.
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 03:21:25 1998
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Hey Andrew,
Glad to hear of the successful
installation and power you got. As you know the
power increase email me your
dyno sheet and I'll post it on my homepage. It
would be very interesting to
see the differencies between your and my car :)
(you can also FAX it but I
guess the quality would be bad then). Or make a copy
of it and send it to me
in exchange to a nice Chocolate bar from Switrzerland
;-)
> 70+
HP
Simple calculation : 13.5psi - 9psi = 4.5psi -> 70hp / 4.5psi =
15.5hp per psi
Usually you'll get between 10 - 15hp per psi, depending on
the mods. As I added
the bleeder valve we had a gain of around 14.5hp per psi
(13G turbos) therefore,
your's in the same range.
> The boost
increase was achieved by altering the frequencies that
> activate the
stock solenoid via the ECU & new plugs & fuel filter were
> put
in.
Plugs and fuel filter makes sense but I still don't know what your
mechanic
exactly did. I doubt that he changed ANYTHING in the ECU as this
could only be
done by adding a dauther board to it (cost intensive). The only
idea I can think
of is that he added an electronic circuit between the ECU
and the stock solenoid
that then changes the behaivour of it. The stock
solenoid is open, alternates at
one specific frequency or is closed. These
three stages can be easily detected
and then changed but it makes no sense
without a boost sensing device.
If he changed the ECU then it makes no
sense why he didn't changed the fuel
curve at the same time. Everything
sounds a little bit strange ;-)
> With this new mod the pressure peaks
at 13.5 psi but holds 12 psi at
> WOT.
This is a conservative but
very save setting :)
> The best thing of all is that the car looks
totally stock.
Yes it looks as there MUST be a device (I still believe
it's the $5 bleeder
valve) somewhare mounted. Even with a bleeder valve the
car looks totally stock
as it can be hidden pretty well.
> This
will also help when I go to sell the car because
> modified cars in
Australia ( I suppose its the same everywhere )are
> harder to sell, &
I didn't really want to have to remove a whole lot of
> stuff before I
sell it
Ok, but the bleeder valve is also removed within 5 minutes and
onother 15
minutes for the Boost controller and 15 minutes for the K&N
replacing with the
stock box. Really not a big deal. Only the plug wires, but
I'd tell the buyer
that a Wombat have eaten the original ones and the dealer
put some advanced ones
in :)
Andrew, it's necessary that we learn more
about the mod the mechnaic did as it
could sound like a cheap boost
controller solution. I was told the same like you
by the tuning-guy in
Switzerland 3 years ago. As I learned more and more about
the car and what a
bleeder valve is I found out that he extremely screwed me as
he only put a
bleeder into the car and sold this mod as a 20% Power Package with
ECU tuning
for more than $1500 !!! He now owes me a lot of dyno sessions :)
Let us
know
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 03:34:32 1998
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From:
"Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: EGT probe
pics
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 06:34:03 -0500
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For Roger and anyone else interested, there are pictures
of the EGT probe
relocation
at:
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r026.jpg
http://www.gate.net/~mits/98r027.jpg
-Bob
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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Maybe I'm a little stupid now... But why does the EGR pipe
have to be blocked? Isn't it just to block the pressure solenoid that opens the
valvle? I belive that it's just to block a vacume hose and get the same result.
Right ?? WRONG??
/Mikael Akesson
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 07:29:59 -0500
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There is a pipe that attaches to the back of the
plenum. It goes into a
separate cavity inside of the plenum that goes
back OUT of the plenum and
into the EGR valve. The valve then
allows/disallows the air to re-enter the
plenum in the main cavity where your
charge air is. Even when the EGR valve
is closed (not admitting warm
air into the intake manifold) such as when the
car is completely warmed up or
under boost, the small cavity is full of
heated air from the EGR pipe.
That ends up heating up your plenum via
conduction. If you block it off
at the flange where the copper pipe joins
the plenum, that smaller cavity
never gets heated since no hot exhaust will
ever get inside of the
plenum.
-Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Mikael
Åkesson
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 7:21 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
>
>
> Maybe I'm a little stupid now...
But why does the EGR pipe have
> to be blocked? Isn't it just to block the
pressure solenoid that
> opens the valvle? I belive that it's just to
block a vacume hose
> and get the same result. Right ??
WRONG??
>
> /Mikael Akesson
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
>
>
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Thanks Bob!
I didn't thought about that stupid
routing of the gases before the EGR valve.
/Mikael
-Original from
Bob Fontana <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
>There is a
pipe that attaches to the back of the plenum. It goes into
a
>separate cavity inside of the plenum that goes back OUT of the plenum
and
>into the EGR valve.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
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From
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Great explanation from Bob !
> I didn't thought
about that stupid routing of the gases before the EGR
valve.
Unfortunately, the manual (even the EU one) is not showing this
perfectly. Even
more the overview picture shows a direct connection to the
EGR valve from the
exhaust manifold and in the beginning I was always looking
this connection :)
For the winter I removed the EGR blocking to get the
warmer intake
(brrrr)
Cheers,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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> For Roger and anyone else interested, there are
pictures of the EGT probe
> relocation at:
Very good ! The short
probe makes live a lot easier, especially at the stock
exhaust manifolds :)
What brand is the probe ?
Thanks,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
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The exhaust pressure idea is a good one.
> What
about a tapped line that allows to messure the pressure in
> the
manifold
> before the turbo. This would be great for preventing
any
> pre-knock situation as
> too much back-pressure can cause
knock and a pressure sensor acts
> more quick
> than an EGT probe. I
think I'll do this on the front one as there
> is more space
>
available :)
The problem with getting rid of the EGR is that the ECU
still thinks it is
there and behaves accordingly. It activates it even
though there is nothing
to activate. Once activated the ECU will adjust
timing and mixture to
compensate for the heat. This of course changes
the tune of the vehicle.
Manually adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune
once the EGR is
deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to happen is
the EGR code in the
ECU also be eliminated.
> Therefore, you also
blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> everything to keep the
>
intake cool and this would be the first one. Unfortunately,
> emmission
test must
> be done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that
blocking
> the EGR can kill
> the rear pre-cat due to the hotter
gases (huh ?). Comments ?
>
> -----------------------
> Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:34:23 -0700
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stealth-3000gt
So Bob, does the EGR only open during cold start? I
thought it also opened
during other rich conditions like sudden radical TPS
changes.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Bob Fontana
>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 5:30 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
>
>
> There is a pipe that attaches to
the back of the plenum. It goes into a
> separate cavity inside of
the plenum that goes back OUT of the plenum and
> into the EGR
valve. The valve then allows/disallows the air to
> re-enter
the
> plenum in the main cavity where your charge air is. Even
when
> the EGR valve
> is closed (not admitting warm air into the
intake manifold) such
> as when the
> car is completely warmed up or
under boost, the small cavity is full of
> heated air from the EGR
pipe. That ends up heating up your plenum via
> conduction. If
you block it off at the flange where the copper pipe joins
> the plenum,
that smaller cavity never gets heated since no hot
> exhaust will
>
ever get inside of the plenum.
>
> -Bob
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 07:30:43 1998
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From:
"Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 10:30:12 -0500
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The ECU closes the valve under boost, so we know there's
no detriment to
performance by running without it while in boosted
state. When cruising,
the ECU will open the valve up even when the
motor is warm. But after two
years of stick time with the block plate
installed, I was still getting 24
MPG @ 80 MPH. It's hard to tell just
what the down side of this
modification is other than "removing or
modifying a pollution control
device". :-)
-Bob
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Barry E. King
>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:27 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
>
>
> The exhaust pressure idea is a good
one.
>
> > What about a tapped line that allows to messure the
pressure in
> > the manifold
> > before the turbo. This would
be great for preventing any
> > pre-knock situation as
> > too
much back-pressure can cause knock and a pressure sensor acts
> > more
quick
> > than an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on the front one as
there
> > is more space
> > available :)
>
> The
problem with getting rid of the EGR is that the ECU still thinks it is
>
there and behaves accordingly. It activates it even though there
>
is nothing
> to activate. Once activated the ECU will adjust timing
and mixture to
> compensate for the heat. This of course changes the
tune of the vehicle.
> Manually adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune
once the EGR is
> deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to
happen is the EGR
> code in the
> ECU also be
eliminated.
>
> > Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right
? I'd do
> > everything to keep the
> > intake cool and this
would be the first one. Unfortunately,
> > emmission test must
>
> be done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that blocking
> >
the EGR can kill
> > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?).
Comments ?
> >
> > -----------------------
> > Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
> > 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:37:11 -0700
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Okay, well, that's cool then. Presumably one could
rely on the ECU's fuel
trim to adjust cruise mixture accordingly. As
you say, if it is closed
under boost then we have control over the
mixture.
BTW, those probes look identical to the TRE
pyrometers.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> The ECU closes the valve under boost, so we know
there's no detriment to
> performance by running without it while in
boosted state. When cruising,
> the ECU will open the valve up even
when the motor is warm. But after two
> years of stick time with the
block plate installed, I was still getting 24
> MPG @ 80 MPH. It's
hard to tell just what the down side of this
> modification is other than
"removing or modifying a pollution control
> device".
:-)
>
> -Bob
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> >
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Barry E. King
>
> Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:27 AM
> > To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> > Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
> >
> >
> > The exhaust pressure
idea is a good one.
> >
> > > What about a tapped line that
allows to messure the pressure in
> > > the manifold
> >
> before the turbo. This would be great for preventing any
> > >
pre-knock situation as
> > > too much back-pressure can cause knock
and a pressure sensor acts
> > > more quick
> > > than
an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on the front one as there
> > >
is more space
> > > available :)
> >
> > The
problem with getting rid of the EGR is that the ECU still
> thinks it
is
> > there and behaves accordingly. It activates it even though
there
> > is nothing
> > to activate. Once activated the
ECU will adjust timing and mixture to
> > compensate for the
heat. This of course changes the tune of
> the vehicle.
> >
Manually adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune once the EGR is
> >
deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to happen is the EGR
>
> code in the
> > ECU also be eliminated.
> >
> >
> Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ? I'd do
> > >
everything to keep the
> > > intake cool and this would be the first
one. Unfortunately,
> > > emmission test must
> > > be
done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that blocking
> > >
the EGR can kill
> > > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh
?). Comments ?
> > >
> > >
-----------------------
> > > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> >
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> >
> >
> >
Regards,
> >
> > Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 4 07:35:57 1998
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost
increase
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:39:39 -0700
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Roger,
One way would be to put a restictive orifice
in the line. Based on previous
discussions with Andrew I believe this
is what the tuner did. You would
have to play around with orifice sizes
until you found one that caused the
desired
behavior.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
<snip>
> Plugs and fuel filter makes sense
but I still don't know what
> your mechanic
> exactly did. I doubt
that he changed ANYTHING in the ECU as this
> could only be
> done
by adding a dauther board to it (cost intensive). The only
> idea I can
think
> of is that he added an electronic circuit between the ECU and
the
> stock solenoid
> that then changes the behaivour of it. The
stock solenoid is
> open, alternates at
> one specific frequency or
is closed. These three stages can be
> easily detected
> and then
changed but it makes no sense without a boost sensing
device.
> If he changed the ECU then it makes no sense why
he didn't
> changed the fuel
> curve at the same time. Everything
sounds a little bit strange ;-)
>
> > With this new mod the
pressure peaks at 13.5 psi but holds 12 psi at
> > WOT.
>
>
This is a conservative but very save setting :)
>
> > The best
thing of all is that the car looks totally stock.
>
> Yes it looks
as there MUST be a device (I still believe it's the
> $5 bleeder
>
valve) somewhare mounted. Even with a bleeder valve the car looks
>
totally stock
> as it can be hidden pretty well.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 07:38:57 1998
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From:
"Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 10:38:28 -0500
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The probe is part of the VDO EGT. It is over 2"
in length which wouldn't
allow me to insert it all the way into the opening
since it would hit the
opposite side of the manifold wall. Instead, I
lightly screwed in the brass
cap with a compression fitting first, then
inserted the probe up to the
stopper rib and torqued the cap down. This
causes the compression fitting
to tighten up around the probe. It's not
going anywhere like that and
prevents the tip of the probe from touching
anything.
-Bob
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Barry E. King
>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:37 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
>
>
> Okay, well, that's cool then.
Presumably one could rely on the ECU's fuel
> trim to adjust cruise
mixture accordingly. As you say, if it is closed
> under boost then
we have control over the mixture.
>
> BTW, those probes look
identical to the TRE pyrometers.
>
>
>
Regards,
>
> Barry
>
> > -----Original
Message-----
> >
> > The ECU closes the valve under boost, so
we know there's no detriment to
> > performance by running without it
while in boosted state. When
> cruising,
> > the ECU will
open the valve up even when the motor is warm.
> But after two
>
> years of stick time with the block plate installed, I was still
>
getting 24
> > MPG @ 80 MPH. It's hard to tell just what the down
side of this
> > modification is other than "removing or modifying
a pollution control
> > device". :-)
> >
> >
-Bob
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > >
From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> > >
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of
> Barry E.
King
> > > Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:27 AM
> >
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> > > Subject: RE: Team3S:
Break out the champaign! (headers)
> > >
> > >
>
> > The exhaust pressure idea is a good one.
> > >
>
> > > What about a tapped line that allows to messure the pressure
in
> > > > the manifold
> > > > before the turbo.
This would be great for preventing any
> > > > pre-knock
situation as
> > > > too much back-pressure can cause knock and a
pressure sensor acts
> > > > more quick
> > > >
than an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on the front one as there
> >
> > is more space
> > > > available :)
> >
>
> > > The problem with getting rid of the EGR is that the ECU
still
> > thinks it is
> > > there and behaves
accordingly. It activates it even though there
> > > is
nothing
> > > to activate. Once activated the ECU will adjust
timing and mixture to
> > > compensate for the heat. This of
course changes the tune of
> > the vehicle.
> > > Manually
adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune once the EGR is
> > >
deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to happen is the EGR
>
> > code in the
> > > ECU also be eliminated.
> >
>
> > > > Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right ?
I'd do
> > > > everything to keep the
> > > >
intake cool and this would be the first one. Unfortunately,
> > >
> emmission test must
> > > > be done evry two years. Also my
mechanic told me that blocking
> > > > the EGR can kill
>
> > > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?). Comments
?
> > > >
> > > > -----------------------
>
> > > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> > > > 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> > >
> > >
> > >
Regards,
> > >
> > > Barry
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 4 08:12:39 1998
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Alterations for boost
increase - MASC
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 11:11:36 -0500
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>If anyone is interested in the MASC, please e-mial me
and I'll
>create a list to show Dave there really is a market out
there!!
Augh!
Say it isn't so!!!!
I was planning on buying
a MASC in February! Literally! - I get a bonus from
my job in January, and
probably a small tax refund, and I was going to use
some of the money to buy
a MASC!
Quick, what's TRE's email / phone number / url? If it's true that
they're
shutting down production, I'm going to dig up a credit card and order
one
ASAP...
(Dang, why'd it take me this long to work through my
backlog of Thanksgiving
mail!?!)
-Ed
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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> There shouldn't be too much of a problem doing
it. Especially to the front
> header since there is easier access
for drilling and tapping.
> Question: Once you determine that you're in a
pre-knock condition based on
> excessive back pressure, what action do you
intend to take?
> Is this part of a longer-term engine management
project?
Or short term. The controller for the diag tool I use has 8
analog inputs and
two of them should be EGT and exhauhst manifold pressure.
I'm currently looking
around for a device that is able to read that high
pressures (I think the boost
sensor that comes with the VPC could read up to
5 bars, I'm not sure). With the
warning setting for each channel I'd be able
to activate two relais controlling
any solenoid. The idea could be opening a
parallel solenoid valve to the BC
solenoid to reduce boost.
//
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 12:04:41 1998
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Here it
is:
http://www.teamrip.com/
Jose
"Fein, Edward"
wrote:
><SNIP>
> Augh!
>
> Say it isn't
so!!!!
>
><SNIP>
> Quick, what's TRE's email / phone
number / url? If it's true that they're
> shutting down production, I'm
going to dig up a credit card and order one
> ASAP...
>
><SNIP>
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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Date: Sat, 05 Dec
1998 09:16:59 +1100
From: Andrew Clark
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R.G. wrote:
> I doubt that he changed ANYTHING in
the ECU as this could only be
> done by adding a dauther board to it (cost
intensive). The only idea I can think
> of is that he added an electronic
circuit between the ECU and the stock solenoid
> that then changes the
behaivour of it. The stock solenoid is open, alternates at
> one specific
frequency or is closed. These three stages can be easily detected
> and
then changed but it makes no sense without a boost sensing device.
>
> If he changed the ECU then it makes no sense why he didn't changed the
fuel
> curve at the same time. Everything sounds a little bit strange
;-)
Roger health scepticism!!!
I sign a contract with this guy
that said he was doing what he said &
not, I repeat NOT installing a
bleeder valve . So if he did & I find out
about he will be in breach of
the trade practices act & his ass will be
grass.
However, I have
looked right over the car & will damned if I can see a
bleeder valve (
& I know where to look ).
I will call him & verify exactly what he
has done but I really don't
think he is taking me for a ride.
>From
what I can gather & as you know ( & probably many members of
this
list ) I'm not the most mechanically minded person here, he doesn't
use
a bleeder valve as he says the car already has one in the form of
the
stock solenoid. Now, what he says he does is alter the behaviour of
the
stock solenoid so that it will release more pressure that
would
otherwise go to the wastegate actuators therefore the wastegates
open
later. How he does this ....I can't say with any great authority &
I
want to be sure of what I say becuase I know you guys really know
your
stuff. So what I will do is speak to him on Monday or ASAP & get
the
"exact" details.
I will post this details as soon as I get
them ,,hmmmm...better take a
pen & note pad with me when I go to see
him.
Cheers
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "R.G."
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> Roger health scepticism!!!
Haha, sorry but
sometimes I leaer faster, sometimes not (grin).
> I sign a contract
with this guy that said he was doing what he said &
> not, I repeat
NOT installing a bleeder valve . So if he did & I find out
> about he
will be in breach of the trade practices act & his ass will be
>
grass.
Hey, no offence broh. I did not made this contract and paid for
this :(
> Now, what he says he does is alter the behaviour of
the
> stock solenoid so that it will release more pressure that
would
> otherwise go to the wastegate actuators therefore the wastegates
open
> later.
After finding out what "orifice" (thanks to
Brian) means in my language this
makes sense : He only makes the opening
larger (if necessary) as well as he
bores a small hole into the inner side of
the valve. This then releases always
some pressure out to the intake part and
therefore acts like a bleeder but IN
the valve and NOT visible. This makes
sense ... and it works. Of course, as
brian said, there is some testing
necessary until the good setup is found. If
the hole gets too big you'll
overboost to the danger level and cannot be
returned. That's why he set a
conservative boost level as it isn't adjustable.
Yes, I got it, and this
works indeed :)
One little drawback if you ever have a problem : If a
dealer tests the
wastegates functionality they fill found a leak in the lines
and finally will
replace the solenoid valve because it is "damaged"
(i.e. modified) as it leaks.
Just make sure then that they will not throw
away the modified one :)
Take care ... and have fun with the extra power
;-)
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 14:17:41
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<3667D309.6DD1CB6E@swissonline.ch> <36685F5B.1AD9@ozemail.com.au>
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R.G. wrote:
>
> One little drawback if
you ever have a problem : If a dealer tests the
> wastegates functionality
they fill found a leak in the lines and finally will
> replace the
solenoid valve because it is "damaged" (i.e. modified) as it
leaks.
> Just make sure then that they will not throw away the modified
one :)
I'm going to get this tuning guy to service the car from now on. I
think
thats probably best since he is familiar with it & what he has
done.
One other thing he said was that the car could run 16 psi
quite
comfortably with a "fuel cut" installed, which could be put
up under the
dash area or somewhere else out of the way.
What would this
be & what would it do? He sort of infered it protects
against running too
lean.
Andrew
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 4 20:42:30 1998
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Shudder
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Hi Team;
I took a bit longer to upgrade my computer
than I thought I would and
had nearly 100 posts from you all, waiting when I
got back. Congrats
Andrew, Near bumber Bob, and good developements (frm
numerous posts)
sound like they are afoot to fill the gap that Tre is leaving
with their
departure.
I have a question for our knowledgeable elite,
and hope it isn't what I
am thinking. Anyway, I am getting brief rear end
shudder when I put my
foot into it in 3rd at 2200RPM or thereabouts. Is
this to be expected
(I'm still fine tuning my BC) or am I running into
carrier bearing (or
any number of of other possible problems ie, transfer
case, etc)??? It
doesn't seem reasonable to be encountering this at 40k
kms...but there
is no telling what the first 25 were like as I did not own it
then.
Again, it's brief, noticeable...smooths out, and then breifly
occurs
again about when I am having take my foot off to brake for damn
corners
we have around here.
Comments
please.
Darc...............glad to be back
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 5 04:31:57 1998
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shudder, hmm. If not engine, could be anything from
xfer case gears
wearing away, one of driveshaft joints wearing, rearend gear,
halfshaft
joint. Doubt axle bearing. If any of these, should do
it in any gear,
really. No loose lugnuts, of course. Third gear
in trans is large, and
is takeoff for power to xfer case as I recall.
Jack T., not-knowledgeable-enough, and my name and 'elite' in
same
sentence would give me nausea :P
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
> question for knowledgeable elite
> getting brief rear end shudder
when put my foot into it in 3rd 2200RPM.
> ?carrier bearing, transfer
case, etc?
> 40k kms, no telling what first 25 were like, I did not own
it then.
> it's brief, noticeable smooths out, then briefly occurs
>
again when take foot off to brake for corners
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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From
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From: "Eric Lotter"
<elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Shudder
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This sounds like the same shudder that my 95 vr-4, (89k)
and my sisters
91 vr-4 (50k) was experiencing. There were plenty of
suggestions from
the group each more serious than the last, but both of us
were under low
fuel conditions when we felt it. Our cause was some kind of
fuel
starvation.
That is not to suggest that is what yours may be,
but If you have less
than a 1/4 tank of gas, you may want to fill up and see
if you get the
same behavior.
EricL
>From:
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
>Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 20:40:41 -0800
>To:
Team3S <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: Team3S:
Shudder
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>Hi
Team;
>
>I took a bit longer to upgrade my computer than I thought I
would and
>had nearly 100 posts from you all, waiting when I got back.
Congrats
>Andrew, Near bumber Bob, and good developements (frm
numerous posts)
>sound like they are afoot to fill the gap that Tre is
leaving with
their
>departure.
>
>I have a question for
our knowledgeable elite, and hope it isn't what I
>am thinking. Anyway, I
am getting brief rear end shudder when I put my
>foot into it in 3rd at
2200RPM or thereabouts. Is this to be expected
>(I'm still fine
tuning my BC) or am I running into carrier bearing (or
>any number of of
other possible problems ie, transfer case, etc)??? It
>doesn't seem
reasonable to be encountering this at 40k kms...but there
>is no telling
what the first 25 were like as I did not own it then.
>Again, it's brief,
noticeable...smooths out, and then breifly occurs
>again about when I am
having take my foot off to brake for damn corners
>we have around
here.
>
>Comments please.
>
>Darc...............glad to
be back
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost
increase
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 07:06:53 -0700
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Andrew,
Presumably he will
install some sort of fuel cut defencer mechanism.
Usually they are simply a
potentiometer that adjusts either the output of
the intake air temperature,
manifold air temperature (if so equipped) or
barometric pressure
sensor. Adjusting the output of any of these sesnors
before the ECU
reads them can allow the ECU to think more or less air is
present and
therefore more or less fuel will be delivered as long as the ECU
is operating
within its fuel map.
At WOT above certain a RPM and Outside the
parameters of the established
fuel map, the ECU is simply dumping the most
amount of fuel it can. Fuel it
is introduced if more airflow is
detected than the ECU thinks the amount of
fuel available can support.
Usually that limit is rather conservative and
can be tweaked somewhat,
especially if you are using a device like the AFC,
VPC or MASC for tuning
outside the factory fuel map anyway.
Fiddling with the sensors may seem
crude but can be effective when properly
tuned and is much less expensive
than the "right" way which is to extend or
correct the fuel maps in
the ECU.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> I'm going to get this tuning guy to service the car from
now on. I think
> thats probably best since he is familiar with it &
what he has done.
> One other thing he said was that the car could run 16
psi quite
> comfortably with a "fuel cut" installed, which could
be put up under the
> dash area or somewhere else out of the way.
>
What would this be & what would it do? He sort of infered it
protects
> against running too lean.
> Andrew
>
Australia
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 5 06:09:10 1998
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Shudder
Date:
Sat, 5 Dec 1998 07:09:55 -0700
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stealth-3000gt
Since the problem appears to be speed related perhaps it
is a bent rim,
damaged tire or out of balance tire.
As to running less
than 1/4 tank of fuel and hearing associated noises under
WOT, that's a sign
that the fuel pump is being overworked. It relies solely
on fuel to
keep it cool. Under cruise considtions this is normally okay but
at WOT
the fuel pump is on most if not all of the time. At 1/4 tank and
below
the pump will be at least partially exposed to air and will not get
adequate
cooling.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> I have a question for our knowledgeable elite, and hope it
isn't what I
> am thinking. Anyway, I am getting brief rear end shudder
when I put my
> foot into it in 3rd at 2200RPM or thereabouts. Is
this to be expected
> (I'm still fine tuning my BC) or am I running into
carrier bearing (or
> any number of of other possible problems ie,
transfer case, etc)??? It
> doesn't seem reasonable to be encountering
this at 40k kms...but there
> is no telling what the first 25 were like as
I did not own it then.
> Again, it's brief, noticeable...smooths out, and
then breifly occurs
> again about when I am having take my foot off to
brake for damn corners
> we have around here.
>
> Comments
please.
>
> Darc...............glad to be back
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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Message-ID: <36699326.5D9F5D14@sprintmail.com>
Date:
Sat, 05 Dec 1998 14:10:14 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree
<wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Shudder
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wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
> Hi
Team;
>
> <<SNIP>> I am getting brief rear end shudder
when I put my
> foot into it in 3rd at 2200RPM or thereabouts. Is
this to be expected
> (I'm still fine tuning my BC) or am I running into
carrier bearing (or
> any number of of other possible problems ie,
transfer case, etc)???
I agree with an earlier post. Start with
your wheels and tires. It's the most logical
place to begin and it's
also probably the cheapest thing to check and/or fix if it does
turn out to
be the culprit. I had a tire that was "out of round" once that
caused a
similar thing. Even though the rim and tire had been balanced
repeatedly, I still had a
vibration......new tires...problem
gone.
Good luck, this is one of those hunt-and-peck
problems.
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 R/T
Turbo
'93 Wrangler
YJ
St.
Louis, MO
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 13:44:58
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From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
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Subject: Team3S: Underhood
Temps
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Could somebody please tell me what is the
approximate
underhood temperature on a VR4? Specifically
the
temperature that is right above the rear turbo heat shield.
I bought
some metal tape that I would like to use on the
hood insulator/shield since
it tends to get incinerated.
The tape is not to be used on exhaust systems or
any
area that exceeds 300 degrees F.
Thanks in advance!
--Errin
Humphrey
Yellow 94 VR4
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 5 16:15:10 1998
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Date: Sun, 06
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From: "R.G."
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Team3S: Underhood Temps
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Errin,
No I don't have any temperature readings but
I have a heat shield on the
innerside of the hood mounted. This is stock on
the EU 3000GTs and I also think
I saw it on pictures from US cars (others
??). Mine never got incinerated but it
became oily once from the leaking oil
cap. The heat then burnt the oil in into
the metallic shield. No big
deal.
> The tape is not to be used on exhaust systems or any
>
area that exceeds 300 degrees F.
I painted the IC pipe that goes from the
rear turbo to the left IC with a 300°F
paint. I've never had any problem
with this and that's where the heat is :)
Hope this helps a
little,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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CC: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
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Friends,
Since some days I'm on an email discussion
with George Kuo, another proud 3000GT
owner that seems to have a serious
problem and I'd like to ask your assist in
this case. I don't know if he
already subscribed but I'll jump in here to get
other ideas.
He's car
got a rebuild (crankshaft broke, runned without oil, blew a fuel
filter) and
now has forget pistons and rods. He runned the Greddy Profec A and
thought it
is not working properly (sometimes he got boost, sometimes not). Also
before
the rebuild he had low fuel pressure but he says it's back to normal
now.
Other mods are TRUST Type-S BOV, AFC, HKS fuel pump, 13G, TRUST Off-road
exhaust
(eliminates the pre-cats, like he said) and probably also another air
filter.
Also he changed the BC to the Blitz DSBC and now found the same
behavior like
wit the Greddy before. Fortunately for him when boost is low,
he uses another
setting that gives him the desired 1.0bars. If he then gets
overboost he
switches back to another lower setting and is getting again
1.0bars.
The problems :
A) sometimes there's boost, sometimes not
(same behavior with diff. BC)
B) He's running into hesitation around 1.0bars
and fuel cut just on a little
higher boost.
Well, remote
diagnostic is very hard, but I think there is definitely a problem
within the
fuel system. The AFC helps in getting rid of the fuel cut by leaning
it out.
But this is only fighting a symptom and not the cause. Especially not
at
1.0bars. IMHO, this sounds like a fuel pressure problem as well a vacuum
line
problem. He said the car is running good and boosts good until he drove
2-3
miles then everything goes away.
Since I'm no specialist on
fuel-system I ask for your help here. Also I need
some support to open the
eyes of George as he still thinks he can cure the
problem by adding a VPC,
G-Force ECU, bigger injectors and more as well as just
set the params of the
Blitz manually on the fly to get the desired boost. I
maybe wrong but I doubt
that this is a good way and I see another rebuild coming
if he doesn't find
the cause of the problem soon.
I also think his car needs a good look
under a lot parts as he doesn't
understand the stuff till today (we all had
to learn). The exhaust (no pre-cats
but maybe a main cat), fuel system and
vacuum system needs a good inspection as
I think the dog lies somewhere in
there.
Thanks in advance,
Roger
George Kuo's address is :
amkreadgto@yahoo.com
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 5 20:11:41 1998
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R.G. wrote:
> Errin,
>
> No
I don't have any temperature readings but I have a heat shield on the
>
innerside of the hood mounted. This is stock on the EU 3000GTs and I also
think
> I saw it on pictures from US cars (others
??).
<snip>
The North American 1st generation cars have a metal heat
shield which does not extend
all the way forward Roger. It sounds like
perhaps the Euro models do, and the frazzled
silver protectant film on the
heat blanket is consequently not a problem. Here it is
problem after a few
years as it looks scabby where the heat scorches it off just forward
of the
metal shield. I do not recall anyone with a 2nd generation complaining
about
this, so Mitsu/Dodge must have corrected it by
then.
>
>
>
<snip>
>
> I painted the IC pipe that goes from the rear turbo
to the left IC with a 300°F
> paint. I've never had any problem with
this and that's where the heat is :)
If this works, that is the 300 F
tape Errin is giving a try (muffler tape ?) please post
back and advise
as I want to solve my look inside the hood as well. How does it
look
BTW?
Darc
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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Thanks Jack, Barry, Eric and Jeff for your
responses. It looks like a
bit of crawling around under there to see if
I can determine the
problem. I thought I'd let my fingers do some in group
walking first.
I'm nearly positive it is not wheel/tire related and seems to
be low end
(2000 rmp) acceleration in third that produces it. It may be
bucking
that will smooth out and disappear when I get the BC fine
tuned. If
not, I'm into getting greasy..gotta love
it!1
Darc
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:26:32 -0500
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Roger,
I think the cause of his orginal engine
failure was a blown oil pump, not a
fuel pump. That probably doesn't
have any bearing on the problems he's
experiencing today.
He has the
bigger fuel pump but is using stock injectors. With all of the
mods he
has done to improve his flow, there's no wonder he is getting fuel
cut and
detonation. The bigger injectors will help.
I ran my car yesterday
a little bit. It was raining out again, so I could
only hit it hard
once in 3rd gear. I had my EVC set to 19 PSI (1.25 bars)
of
boost. At 6000 RPM, I felt a very slight hesitation. I lifted
the
throttle and about one second later glanced over at my EGT. It was
at 1700F
(off the scale) and falling fast. I estimate that it had
probably reached
1800F. I was running my "street" VPC EPROM
and had the fuel pressure turned
down to stock values. I also
haven't hooked up the switch to activate the
"race" parameters, so
fortunately for me, there's plenty of room for
expansion, but it goes to show
that we are all playing right on the edge
when it comes to these
cars.
-Bob
>
> Since I'm no specialist on fuel-system I
ask for your help here.
> Also I need
> some support to open the
eyes of George as he still thinks he can cure the
> problem by adding a
VPC, G-Force ECU, bigger injectors and more
> as well as just
> set
the params of the Blitz manually on the fly to get the
> desired boost.
I
> maybe wrong but I doubt that this is a good way and I see
another
> rebuild coming
> if he doesn't find the cause of the
problem soon.
>
> I also think his car needs a good look under a lot
parts as he doesn't
> understand the stuff till today (we all had to
learn). The
> exhaust (no pre-cats
> but maybe a main cat), fuel
system and vacuum system needs a good
> inspection as
> I think the
dog lies somewhere in there.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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Message-ID: <366B058F.CBDAA0A9@swissonline.ch>
Date: Sun, 06
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost / fuel cut problem
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Thnks for the input Bob.
> I think the cause of
his orginal engine failure was a blown oil pump, not a
> fuel pump.
That probably doesn't have any bearing on the problems he's
> experiencing
today.
Hmm, he didn't mentioned a blown oil pump as his words were
"blown a fuel filter
(how can this be done ??) ... drove a couples of
yards without oil". Since then
he always had low fuel pressure until the
rebuild due to the broken crankshaft.
> He has the bigger fuel pump
but is using stock injectors. With all of the
> mods he has done to
improve his flow, there's no wonder he is getting fuel
> cut and
detonation. The bigger injectors will help.
I agree that bigger
injectors would help in delivering more fuel, but you felt a
hesitation
around 19psi and he's getting fuel cut today at 14.5psi !! For me
this IS an
important sign that there's something wrong as even with the stock
setup fuel
cut does not occur before 17 psi! With my setup, ATR dp/cat, Borla,
FIPK and
Blitz DSBC I runned into hesitation/fuel cut around 18psi. I had
"good"
days and overboosted to 1.34bars without any retarded timing
(no comment,
please). I therefore think that the detonation he's running in
is way too early
than normal ! But what can cause this ? Clogged fuel filter
? Clogged lines ?
Too low fuel pressure ? Any other ideas ?
I also
told him to let check the O2 sensors as well as the fuel pressure over
a
longer period. Also a good check of the vacuum system is necessary. BTW,
also
the cold-start situation (car runs well then) is interesting as the
problems are
starting when the engine reaches the normal
temperatures.
> I estimate that it had probably reached
1800F.
OUCH ! What octane are you currently running ?
> I was
running my "street" VPC EPROM and had the fuel pressure turned
>
down to stock values. I also haven't hooked up the switch to
activate the
> "race" parameters, so fortunately for me, there's
plenty of room for
> expansion, but it goes to show that we are all
playing right on the edge
> when it comes to these cars.
Tell us
(VPC now/soon guys) more about the "Switch". I have three
different
EPROMs but would like to learn more about the switch,
hehe.
Back to George's problem, I think that the bigger injectors will
cure the
symptom today but will not remove the cause of the problem. Even
more as he had
the same problem before the bigger fuel pump and even with
setting the AFC to 0.
Thanks for any
input.
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
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Hi,
Thanx Roger for bring my problems on
this discussion board. I would
like to clear something 1st regarding
what lead to my engine rebuilt.
I road race extensively on my '92 RT
TT. About 2 yrs ago at a road
course, I blew of my oil filter and drove
it back to the pits area
without any oil. After that incident, I have
low reading on my stock
oil pressure gauge. Then about a year after
while I was crusing 70mph
on the freeway, the car just stalled. I
pulled off to the shoulder
and tried to start to car again. As I started the
car, nasty loud
grinding noises appeared. I knew it was something
bad!$$ .. I towed
it to the Mitsu dealer and found out my crankshaft
broke.
And my Profec A had problems way before any of these. It
worked
great for the 1st year of use but afterwards it hasn't been
working
rite at all. Major problem with it was it wouldn't hold boost..
drops
to stock boost.
Thanks for the
help.
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:09:56 -0500
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When the motor is hot, detonation can occur from high
cylinder temperatures.
That could be a clue. But you are right -- 14.5
PSI is too low for those
kinds of things to be happening. You friend is
not "holding boost". Has he
checked all of his I/C hoses,
especially on the inside of the hoses under
the clamps? I ended up with
lots of cracks that leaked boost.
> > I estimate that it had
probably reached 1800F.
>
> OUCH ! What octane are you currently
running ?
It was 93 octane (r + m) / 2.
> Tell us (VPC now/soon
guys) more about the "Switch". I have three
> different
>
EPROMs but would like to learn more about the switch, hehe.
Take an EPROM
burner and load one program in at address 0x0000 and the other
at
0x8000. Then solder a 10Kohm resistor between A15 to VSS and
another
from GND to a toggle switch. Cut off the A15 leg before you
plug it into
the VPC socket.
When the switch is ON, the program a 0x8000
will be selected. When it is
off, the program at 0x0000 is
selected.
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "R.G."
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Boost / fuel cut problem
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Welcome aboard George :)
> And my
Profec A had problems way before any of these. It worked
> great for
the 1st year of use but afterwards it hasn't been working
> rite at
all. Major problem with it was it wouldn't hold boost.. drops
> to
stock boost.
Unfortunately, this is the same situation again with the
Blitz DSBC. The good
thing is that the Blitz is more manually and therefore
you can set the Ratio at
different level depending if your car is
overboosting or not. This is a sign
that there's something wrong in your
system.
Just to make sure, when everything seems allright, your settigns
of the Blitz
are Gain 20 / Ratio 45 and this boosted up to about 1 bar. This
are about the
same results as I'm getting with the 13G setup and is very
comparable. After 2
or 3 miles then your boost runned up very high that you
had to set the Ratio
back to 13 to prevent the overboost over 1.0bars. This
is very, very strange and
definitely not normal. Also I doubt that this is
controller related as it would
work or not in the Blitz case. Mikael from
Sweden has also somewhat low Blitz
settings to get the same boost but they
are still on a higher level than yours.
One of my ideas is to install a
bleeder valve and switching the controller off.
Then set the boost to about 1
bars and see how the system acts when cold and
after 3 or 4 miles. I feel
that there will be the same bad behaviour, at the
beginning boost and then
back to somewhat stock level. If this is not the case,
then there's really
something wrong with the controller. Any opinions ?
I'm sure we'll find
the problem on Geoge's car
:)
//Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: VPC Program trick :)
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> Take an EPROM burner and load one program in at
address 0x0000 and the other
> at 0x8000. Then solder a 10Kohm
resistor between A15 to VSS and another
> from GND to a toggle
switch. Cut off the A15 leg before you plug it into
> the VPC
socket.
> When the switch is ON, the program a 0x8000 will be
selected. When it is
> off, the program at 0x0000 is
selected.
Absolutely great. A MUST for any VPC users !! I didn't knew
that the program is
so small. How big is the program anyway ? Maybe it also
fits in other addresses
:) I'll search my good ol burner out of my storage
and will do it before the
installation. Have you ever switched from
"Street" to "Grrrrr" while running the
car
?
Thanks Bob !
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 6 17:04:40 1998
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
Stealth@starnet.net
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Subject: Team3S: Bad yet Good day at
the track!
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All,
We'll I had a bad
and good day at the track today.. The weather was
awesome, maybe
a little on the hot side just over 80degrees. With 3/4 tank
full of
half 93 and half Sunocco 98 pump octane gas and full interior (only
the spare
removed, which hasn't been in the car for well over a year now:) I
pulled
into Capitol raceway hoping to finally see the low 11's, but I guess
that
will have to wait until another week.
However, I did best my previous
best et and mph. First run, I had the boost
set at 1.3bar (I always run
a pound or two less boost the first run to make
sure everything is
okay). I launched using my new VERY quick slip technique
but bogged a
little off the line, which resulted in a 1.817 60-foot. The car
ran
great and I ended up running a 11.63 at 121.58mph! Not what I was
hoping
for, but then again not bad for the first run of the day!
During the first run I noticed the car was running unusually rich so I
leaned
the fuel a hair and turned the boost to 1.4bar for my second
pass. When I was
in the staging lanes I noticed the gear shifter wasn't
shifting properly, when
I went to shift to 5th or 6th the shifter didn't
spring back like it normally
did. I picked up the shifter boot and
everything was attached, and sence 1st,
2nd, 3rd, and 4th gear felt 100%
normal, I didn't think much of it. After the
car cooled for 45min or so
I ran it again. Launched a little more
aggressively and the car hooked
good, but then spun. Got a 1.78 60-foot. Hit
2nd gear and the car
HAULED ASS compared to my first run.. Then I hit
5th...lol. The
darn shifter was way out of wack... O well :). Ended up with
a 12.55 at
115.56mph.
I couldn't get the car to go in 1st or 2nd gears. So I
brought her back to
the parking area as best I could in 3rd. Took off
the mass-air sensor and
noticed the shifter lever at the end of the linkage
was bent. Took it off and
borrowed a hammer to smack it straight.
It seemed okay so I put everything
back together, and drove around the
parking lot. Shifted through all gears
100% perfect.
Everything
seemed fine so I drove the car back around to the staging lanes.
After 30min.
or so it was time to run so I staged. Launched a little harder
(but
still a little soft compared to how I usually launch) and got a
1.76
60-foot. Hit second gear and everything was going perfect, shifted
to 3rd and
it was a success! The car was pulling like crazy so I
figured I was well on
my way to the low 11's.. NOPE! As soon as I
went to shit to 4th the shifter
bracket bent again, and I hit 6th..
Ended up with a
11.90 at 104.01mph. Damn...lol.
The car
wouldn't go into 1st and 2nd again, but I was afraid if I tried
bending the
shifter lever again it might break.. so I limped home best
I
could.
All in all, I'm happy I have a new best of 11.63 at
121.58mph. With a better
60-foot and 1.5bar or so, I know low 11's are
just around the corner!
Hopefully Mitsu. will have the shifter bracket/lever
I need in stock, and I'll
give it another try next weekend
:).
Also at the track, my friend Jason in his '94 3000GT VR4 did
pretty well. His
first time out, with a clutch that wasn't 100%
compliant, he ran a best of
13.6 and 102.5mph with only a filter. With
a decent clutch, and a good
60-foot it looks like his car will have no
problem clicking off a few low
13's!
Before I end the mail, just would
like to say OUR CARS (3000GT VR4 and Dodge
Stealth) KICK ASS! If I had
the option to trade my car in for ANY car I
wanted, I cannot think of one car
I'd want more - period!
Thanks for reading,
TTYLater,
Mike
Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 121.58
For info..
this is how the car was run when I ran the
11.63@121.58mph..
1.3bar
3/4 tank of gas, half 93-Exxon and half
98-Sunocco
Full interior with spare removed
Stock Goodyear GS-C's
NO
NOS, 100% Mitsu. 3.0L and twin 15G's providing the fun! (I don't need to
lie
like some, I earned these times!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: VPC Program trick
:)
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:47:15 -0500
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The code is about 4K, if my memory serves correctly.
It is a combination of
a small amount of code and the remainder is static
data. The Intel 27xxx
EPROM has built in selector
logic.
Switching while the car is running has "unpredictable"
results.
In my case, I have the 360CC injector program loaded in the
lower half and
the 550CC program in the upper half. I found that the
360CC injector
program combined with turning the gain all the way back to the
1st click
allows me to clean up the injectors and provides great
streetability. The
550CC injector program (which I haven't tried since
the rebuild) is far more
tuneable but is a "gas hog". It is
the chip I'm using at the track.
My new motor now has 2 hours on
it. There is a bad problem with my 1->2
synchro. It grinds
going from 1->2 and 3->2. Wierd. They are brand
new
synchros. So that prevents me from doing any serious time trials
but I will
be able to do some tuning in 3rd gear, playing with VPC settings,
EPROM
selection and fuel pressure.
> Absolutely great. A MUST for
any VPC users !! I didn't knew that
> the program is so small. How big is
the program anyway ? Maybe it also
fits in
> other addresses I'll
search my good ol burner out of my storage and will
do it
> before the
installation. Have you ever switched from "Street" to
"Grrrrr"
> while running the
> car ?
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "Bob Rand"
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
<Stealth@starnet.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad yet Good day at the
track!
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:48:42 -0500
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Way to go Mike!
What do you think
the cause of bent lingage is.
You must have one thick forearm
:)
-----Original Message-----
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
<LotoBoost@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>;
Stealth@starnet.net
<Stealth@starnet.net>
Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 8:05
PM
Subject: Team3S: Bad yet Good day at the
track!
>All,
>
>
> We'll
I had a bad and good day at the track today.. The weather
was
>awesome, maybe a little on the hot side just over 80degrees.
With 3/4 tank
>full of half 93 and half Sunocco 98 pump octane gas and
full interior (only
>the spare removed, which hasn't been in the car for
well over a year now:)
I
>pulled into Capitol raceway hoping to finally
see the low 11's, but I guess
>that will have to wait until another
week.
>
>However, I did best my previous best et and mph.
First run, I had the
boost
>set at 1.3bar (I always run a pound or two
less boost the first run to make
>sure everything is okay). I
launched using my new VERY quick slip
technique
>but bogged a little
off the line, which resulted in a 1.817 60-foot. The
car
>ran
great and I ended up running a 11.63 at 121.58mph! Not what I
was
hoping
>for, but then again not bad for the first run of the
day!
>
>During the first run I noticed the car was running unusually
rich so I
leaned
>the fuel a hair and turned the boost to 1.4bar for my
second pass. When I
was
>in the staging lanes I noticed the gear
shifter wasn't shifting properly,
when
>I went to shift to 5th or 6th
the shifter didn't spring back like it
normally
>did. I picked up
the shifter boot and everything was attached, and sence
1st,
>2nd, 3rd,
and 4th gear felt 100% normal, I didn't think much of it.
After
the
>car cooled for 45min or so I ran it again. Launched a
little more
>aggressively and the car hooked good, but then spun.
Got a 1.78 60-foot.
Hit
>2nd gear and the car HAULED ASS compared to my
first run.. Then I hit
>5th...lol. The darn shifter was way
out of wack... O well :). Ended up
with
>a 12.55 at
115.56mph.
>
>I couldn't get the car to go in 1st or 2nd
gears. So I brought her back to
>the parking area as best I could in
3rd. Took off the mass-air sensor and
>noticed the shifter lever at
the end of the linkage was bent. Took it off
and
>borrowed a
hammer to smack it straight. It seemed okay so I put
everything
>back together, and drove around the parking lot. Shifted
through all gears
>100% perfect.
>
>Everything seemed fine so
I drove the car back around to the staging lanes.
>After 30min. or so it
was time to run so I staged. Launched a little
harder
>(but still
a little soft compared to how I usually launch) and got a
1.76
>60-foot. Hit second gear and everything was going perfect,
shifted to 3rd
and
>it was a success! The car was pulling like
crazy so I figured I was well
on
>my way to the low 11's..
NOPE! As soon as I went to shit to 4th the
shifter
>bracket
bent again, and I hit 6th.. Ended up with a
>11.90 at
104.01mph. Damn...lol.
>
>The car wouldn't go into 1st and 2nd
again, but I was afraid if I tried
>bending the shifter lever again it
might break.. so I limped home best I
>could.
>
>All in all,
I'm happy I have a new best of 11.63 at 121.58mph. With
a
better
>60-foot and 1.5bar or so, I know low 11's are just around the
corner!
>Hopefully Mitsu. will have the shifter bracket/lever I need in
stock, and
I'll
>give it another try next weekend
:).
>
>
>Also at the track, my friend Jason in his '94 3000GT
VR4 did pretty well.
His
>first time out, with a clutch that wasn't
100% compliant, he ran a best of
>13.6 and 102.5mph with only a
filter. With a decent clutch, and a good
>60-foot it looks like his
car will have no problem clicking off a few
low
>13's!
>
>Before I end the mail, just would like to say
OUR CARS (3000GT VR4 and
Dodge
>Stealth) KICK ASS! If I had the
option to trade my car in for ANY car I
>wanted, I cannot think of one car
I'd want more - period!
>
>Thanks for
reading,
>TTYLater,
>Mike Mahaffey
>'94 Stealth tt
>Best
et: 11.6 Best mph: 121.58
>
>For info.. this is how the car was run
when I ran the 11.63@121.58mph..
>
>1.3bar
>3/4 tank of gas,
half 93-Exxon and half 98-Sunocco
>Full interior with spare
removed
>Stock Goodyear GS-C's
>NO NOS, 100% Mitsu. 3.0L and twin
15G's providing the fun! (I don't need to
>lie like some, I earned these
times!)
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 6 20:54:21 1998
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Date: Sun, 06
Dec 1998 22:54:05 -0600
From: Jeff Crabtree
<wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad yet Good day at the
track!
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LotoBoost@aol.com wrote:
>
All,
>
> We'll I had a bad and good
day at the track today.. <<BIG SNIP>>
Damn
Mike.....impressive. You bent the linkage and didn't blow out a
syncro?!?! Don't
let Mitsu or Getrag get ahold of this
information. It'll just be another bullet for
their "There's
nothing wrong with your transmissions" gun.
--
-Jeff
Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 03:15:37 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad yet Good day at the track!
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In a message dated 12/6/98 8:06:45 PM Eastern Standard
Time, LotoBoost@aol.com
writes:
<<
All,
We'll I had a bad and good
day at the track today.. The weather was
awesome, maybe a little
on the hot side just over 80degrees. With 3/4 tank
full of half 93 and
half Sunocco 98 pump octane gas and full interior (only
the spare removed,
which hasn't been in the car for well over a year now:) I
pulled into Capitol
raceway hoping to finally see the low 11's, but I guess
that will have to
wait until another week.
However, I did best my previous best et and
mph. First run, I had the boost
set at 1.3bar (I always run a pound or
two less boost the first run to make
sure everything is okay). I
launched using my new VERY quick slip technique
but bogged a little off the
line, which resulted in a 1.817 60-foot. The car
ran great and I ended
up running a 11.63 at 121.58mph
>>
Mike,
Congrats on the new personal best.
Looks like our cars are in the
middle of a
performance revolution. Remember
not
that
many years ago when Turbo mag ran
the article on the 1991
VR-4 that
ran a 12.80 @ 108?(Endless Performance). Everyone
seemed
to think that was amazing
"for such a heavy car." Look at us
now!
Looking forward to seeing what you
run with more seasonable
weather
and full
boost.
Congrats
again,
Wayne 3SI
#87
'91 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 04:04:54 1998
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From:
"Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Bad yet Good day
at the track!
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:04:36 -0500
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Mike,
Despite all of the
problems, they're still good runs - you're bound to go a
lot faster
soon. Question: Are these runs with 720 injectors? What else
did
you change?
-Bob
> We'll I
had a bad and good day at the track today.. The
> weather
was
> awesome, maybe a little on the hot side just over
80degrees.
> With 3/4 tank
> full of half 93 and half Sunocco
98 pump octane gas and full
> interior (only
> the spare
removed, which hasn't been in the car for well over a
> year now:)
I
> pulled into Capitol raceway hoping to finally see the low
11's,
> but I guess
> that will have to wait until another
week.
>
> However, I did best my previous best et and
mph. First run, I
> had the boost
> set at 1.3bar (I
always run a pound or two less boost the first
> run to make
>
sure everything is okay). I launched using my new VERY quick
> slip
technique
> but bogged a little off the line, which resulted in a
1.817
> 60-foot. The car
> ran great and I ended up
running a 11.63 at 121.58mph >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Bad yet Good day at
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Mike , you sure did earn these times. Congrats & good
running.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 12/6/98 5:06:45 PM Pacific
Standard Time, LotoBoost@aol.com
writes:
<<
Thanks for
reading,
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best
mph: 121.58
For info.. this is how the car was run when I ran the
11.63@121.58mph..
1.3bar
3/4 tank of gas, half 93-Exxon and half
98-Sunocco
Full interior with spare removed
Stock Goodyear GS-C's
NO
NOS, 100% Mitsu. 3.0L and twin 15G's providing the fun! (I don't need to
lie
like some, I earned these times!)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 06:46:09 1998
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the champaign!
(headers)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:46:10 -0500
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The '94+ models detect the disabling of said pollution
control device and
activate your "Check Engine" light.
Which
is an annoying enough downside that I unblocked my EGR
line...
-Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Fontana
The ECU closes the valve under boost, so we know there's no
detriment to
performance by running without it while in boosted state.
When cruising,
the ECU will open the valve up even when the motor is
warm. But after two
years of stick time with the block plate installed,
I was still getting 24
MPG @ 80 MPH. It's hard to tell just what the
down side of this
modification is other than "removing or modifying a
pollution control
device". :-)
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Dec 7 07:49:30 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:50:03 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: George Kuo
[mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 1998 2:49 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
<snip>
And my Profec A had problems way before
any of these. It worked
great for the 1st year of use but afterwards it
hasn't been working
rite at all. Major problem with it was it wouldn't
hold boost.. drops
to stock boost.
<end of
snip>
George...
I have a GReddy PRofec also. I had a problem
getting it to "learn", in fact
I never have been able to get it to
run "program A". However, there is a
"program B" process
in the setup manual that has worked for me. You might
try that. In my case, I
now have true boost control and can hold .9bar up to
redline (when it's set
on 1.0bar). I'm holding off on running >1.0bar until
I have installed an
upgraded fuel delivery system and my 15G turbos.
I have the manual if you
don't, or you can find it on GReddy's web site.
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Good day at the
track!
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:25:03 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
[mailto:LotoBoost@aol.com]
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 1998 5:04 PM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com; Stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Team3S: Bad yet
Good day at the track!
<snip>
Before I end the mail, just
would like to say OUR CARS (3000GT VR4 and Dodge
Stealth) KICK ASS! If
I had the option to trade my car in for ANY car I
wanted, I cannot think of
one car I'd want more - period!
Thanks for reading,
TTYLater,
Mike
Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best mph: 121.58
<end of
snip>
Mike...
CONGRATULATIONS!!!
I'm planning on getting
to the same point by the summer of 1999, hopefully
without a bent shifter
bracket. :-)
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
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In a message dated 12/7/98 10:00:52 AM Eastern Standard
Time,
fein@strategy.com writes:
<< The '94+ models detect the
disabling of said pollution control device and
activate your "Check
Engine" light.
Which is an annoying enough downside that I unblocked
my EGR line...
>>
Yeah the '94 and newer Stealth turbos
and VR4s through a code when you block
the EGR. Any performance gains
(I haven't noticed any on my car) probably
aren't worth not knowing when
something else goes wrong -- with the "check
engine" warning light
lighted from the EGR all the time, you wouldn't know if
something else went
bad..
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6 Best
mph: 121.58
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 10:19:38 1998
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From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
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Hi Chris,
Thanx for the information.
My Profec had no problem learning in
both P1 and P2. I got rid of it
already, now I have a DSBC. =)
George
---Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com> wrote:
>
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: George Kuo [mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com]
>
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 1998 2:49 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Boost / fuel cut
problem
>
> <snip>
> And my Profec A had
problems way before any of these. It worked
> great for the 1st year
of use but afterwards it hasn't been working
> rite at all. Major
problem with it was it wouldn't hold boost.. drops
> to stock
boost.
> <end of snip>
>
> George...
>
> I
have a GReddy PRofec also. I had a problem getting it to
"learn",
in fact
> I never have been able to get it to run
"program A". However, there
is a
> "program B"
process in the setup manual that has worked for me. You
might
> try
that. In my case, I now have true boost control and can hold
.9bar up
to
> redline (when it's set on 1.0bar). I'm holding off on
running
>1.0bar until
> I have installed an upgraded fuel delivery
system and my 15G turbos.
>
> I have the manual if you don't, or
you can find it on GReddy's web
site.
>
> Looking
forward...Chris
>
> "Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
>
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 12:08:56 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Break out the cham
Changed to Eng. Light
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Ever since I changed my ECU, my engine light has always
been on. It was a
worthwhile trade off considering the much better
performance.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 12/7/98 9:09:09 AM
Pacific Standard Time, LotoBoost@aol.com
writes:
<< Subj: Re:
Team3S: Break out the champaign! (headers)
Date: 12/7/98 9:09:09 AM Pacific
Standard Time
From: LotoBoost@aol.com
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
In a
message dated 12/7/98 10:00:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
fein@strategy.com
writes:
<< The '94+ models detect the disabling of said pollution
control device and
activate your "Check Engine"
light.
Which is an annoying enough downside that I
unblocked my EGR line...
>>
Yeah the '94 and newer
Stealth turbos and VR4s through a code when you block
the EGR. Any
performance gains (I haven't noticed any on my car) probably
aren't worth not
knowing when something else goes wrong -- with the "check
engine"
warning light lighted from the EGR all the time, you wouldn't know
if
something else went bad..
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 12:17:50 1998
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:17:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore
<stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Low-Profile Pop-Up Headlights
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<19981207182137.28557.rocketmail@send104.yahoomail.com>
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Hi all,
I've been looking off-an-on for a year or
so, trying to see if anyone has
developed a replacement set of headlights for
the pre-94 vehicles. I saw
a pic of some cool low-profile pop-ups on a
demo car at the Japanese Auto
Salon last year, but have no idea whose site
was hosting the picture or
who prepared that car. It was a wicked
purple and black color scheme, as
I recall.
I did some digging around,
but couldn't find any vendors, and even toyed
with designing my own
version. (I decided I didn't have the time or money
to go back to
school for a degree in Applied Optics...) But I've drawn
blanks across
the board.
So my question is three-fold, I guess:
Anyone have any
recollection of the car I mention above?
If so, do you have any
ideas how I can get more info on the headlights
they used?
Anyone
have any other ideas or suggestions on low-profile replacements for
the
pop-ups? I'm not interested in fixed lights, like the 94+, but I
would
like something different from stock.
Thanks.
Dennis
Moore
stealth@kiva.net
There are no *stupid* people in this world,
only *ignorant* ones.
Ignorance is a good problem, because the
application of accurate
information can help people get over
it.
However, ignorance combined with arrogance closely resembles
stupidity.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 12:49:02 1998
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From: "Eric Lotter"
<elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low-Profile Pop-Up Headlights
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Dennis,
Many drivers of the GTO equivilants have
done a simple modification that
rasise the stock light to half it's height,
giving it a low profile
look.
throught
http://www.3si.org/members/mem_links.html one or more of the
links will take
you to a .jp site where you can see it.
Now I'm not proposing that it
would work, but modifying the lights to be
on, then cranking the hand
adjustment to where you want it may be very
in-expensive.
I've been
waiting for someone to post the real instructions on the mod
to me to post
on 3si.
EricL
3siD#0500
>Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:17:42
-0500 (EST)
>From: Dennis Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Team3S: Low-Profile Pop-Up
Headlights
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>Hi
all,
>
>I've been looking off-an-on for a year or so, trying to see
if anyone
has
>developed a replacement set of headlights for the
pre-94 vehicles. I
saw
>a pic of some cool low-profile pop-ups
on a demo car at the Japanese
Auto
>Salon last year, but have no idea
whose site was hosting the picture or
>who prepared that car. It was
a wicked purple and black color scheme,
as
>I recall.
>
>I
did some digging around, but couldn't find any vendors, and even
toyed
>with designing my own version. (I decided I didn't have
the time or
money
>to go back to school for a degree in Applied
Optics...) But I've drawn
>blanks across the
board.
>
>So my question is three-fold, I
guess:
>
>Anyone have any recollection of the car I mention
above?
>
>If so, do you have any ideas how I can get more
info on the headlights
>they used?
>
>Anyone have any other
ideas or suggestions on low-profile replacements
for
>the
pop-ups? I'm not interested in fixed lights, like the 94+, but
I
>would like something different from
stock.
>
>Thanks.
>
>Dennis
Moore
>stealth@kiva.net
>
>There are no *stupid* people in
this world, only *ignorant* ones.
>
>Ignorance is a good problem,
because the application of accurate
>information can help people get over
it.
>
>However, ignorance combined with arrogance closely resembles
stupidity.
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:18:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis Moore
<stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Low-Profile Pop-Up Headlights
In-Reply-To:
<19981207204850.6598.qmail@hotmail.com>
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Hmm, wouldn't that radically diminish the effectiveness of
the lights? I
mean, they'd be point significantly downward, instead of
nearly
horizontally.
Guess I need to add a new specification to my
wish list: street-legal and
without adverse impact to night
drivability.
Thanks for the link, though. I'll check it
out.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
On Mon, 7 Dec 1998, Eric
Lotter wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> Many drivers of the GTO
equivilants have done a simple modification that
> rasise the stock light
to half it's height, giving it a low profile
> look.
>
>
throught http://www.3si.org/members/mem_links.html one or more of the
>
links will take you to a .jp site where you can see it.
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 7 13:25:41 1998
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From: "Eric Lotter"
<elotter@hotmail.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Low-Profile Pop-Up Headlights
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The Lights never "tip" toward the street or at
any angle, in a sense,
they never "flip" up they more like rise
from the resting position, this
is how the"flash to pass"
mechanism works. (Read as they are always
horizontal)
If you were to
remove the dispersion plastic just infront of the
headlight, and replace it
with a clear plastic, or nothing at all, you
could use the light at full
strength as it sits.
EricL
3siD#0500
>Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998
16:18:10 -0500 (EST)
>From: Dennis Moore
<stealth@kiva.net>
>To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>Subject: Re: Team3S: Low-Profile Pop-Up
Headlights
>Reply-To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>Hmm,
wouldn't that radically diminish the effectiveness of the lights?
I
>mean, they'd be point significantly downward, instead of
nearly
>horizontally.
>
>Guess I need to add a new
specification to my wish list: street-legal
and
>without adverse
impact to night drivability.
>
>Thanks for the link, though.
I'll check it out.
>
>Dennis
Moore
>stealth@kiva.net
>
>On Mon, 7 Dec 1998, Eric Lotter
wrote:
>
>> Dennis,
>>
>> Many drivers of the
GTO equivilants have done a simple modification
that
>> rasise the
stock light to half it's height, giving it a low profile
>>
look.
>>
>> throught
http://www.3si.org/members/mem_links.html one or more of the
>> links
will take you to a .jp site where you can see it.
>>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Organization:
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This is an administrative test - ignore.
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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Subject: Team3S: Gud'ay eh... hosers.
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Mike...it seems like you had much more
of a good day recently, than a
bad one...would that we all could turn those
times with a buggered
linkage/shift arm. Gud on ya mate, to paraphrase
Andrew's countrymen!
Now, you just have to differentiate between arm
quickness, and arm
strength! We're talking a strong arm here to do the bend
job you
described.
And, with Chris now moving into the fast lane
with his new
acquisitions, I expect we'll be hearing of another 3S eating up
the hot
shots! It's nice to see that Hau's stuff remained in the family and
that
a deserving guy is going to use it. I know Errin will be putting
the
remainder to good use, and smoking the competition in the Seattle
area.
Now, if I can just get off this rain swept Isle and find some open
dry
road to fine tune my own modest mods on....and maybe meet up with
some
of you west coasters.
Darc
Victoria
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 8 02:41:23 1998
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Date: Tue, 08
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From: Andrew Clark
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Gud'ay eh... hosers.
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wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
Gud on ya mate, to
paraphrase Andrew's countrymen!
Fair dinkum Darc mate I dead set swear I
haven't got the foggiest what
ya takin about cobber.
Andrew
Little
Aussie Battler
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 8 12:27:36 1998
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 12:25:52
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From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
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I was ordering some stuff yesterday from Jeremy at
Tallahassee
Mitsubishi. He mentioned that he was recently flipping
through a
performance magazine, and he saw a picture of a black 3000GT
VR4
with a sticker saying "Defying Its Weight." He said that
the
article mentioned that the car runs "10's at
100-something." I
was, of course, very skeptical of those times,
but I decided not
to argue with him (I already had a big argument with him
since he
thought that active exhaust works like a straight pipe
dump-tube
and a car won't pass emissions when it is turned on.) Does
anyone
know what car this was? The picture was from a big track
event.
BTW, good job at the track Mike!
And Bob, I'm very glad to
hear that you didn't burn your
house/car down, and that your car is up and
running again!
--Errin Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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From
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Subject: Team3S: Car buying service I'd
recommend - Off topic
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I just bought a Ford Explorer at the tissue price (dealers
cost) no hidden
crap.
I expected a lot of dealer prep or mysterious add
ons. To the contrary, a
clean straight foward deal. I got the prices off the
Carprices.com and then
asked for a quote from AutoVantage.com. I could not
match the AutoVantage's
price of Zero over invoice anywhere and I'm good at
it. If your considering a
new purchase, check it out.
I'll be using the
new explorer to tow my 91 VR-4 and taking it to another
level.
Can I
consider the explorer a modification for my VR-4? (grin)
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 8 16:19:59 1998
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Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:19:38 -0500
(EST)
From: JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
To:
stealth@starnet.net
cc: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com,
Aso8@aol.com
Subject: Team3S: Re: Car buying service I'd recommend - Off
topic
In-Reply-To: <bd2f35be.366d8ddc@aol.com>
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Be ready to total your Exploer soon b/c it lacks in the
muscle to tow a
VR-4. Either go to a full-size truck or use a Grand Cherokee
like Chris
Dotur. I know of overheating probs w/ Explorers and
hopefully your
money doesn't go down the drain on the purchase.
On
Tue, 8 Dec 1998
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>>I just bought a Ford
Explorer at the tissue price (dealers cost) no
hidden
>>crap.
>>I expected a lot of dealer prep or mysterious
add ons. To the contrary, a
>>clean straight foward deal. I got the
prices off the Carprices.com and then
>>asked for a quote from
AutoVantage.com. I could not match the AutoVantage's
>>price of Zero
over invoice anywhere and I'm good at it. If your considering a
>>new
purchase, check it out.
>>I'll be using the new explorer to tow my 91
VR-4 and taking it to another
>>level.
>>Can I consider the
explorer a modification for my VR-4? (grin)
>>Arty 91
VR-4
>>
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep is America's only
real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 8 19:57:47 1998
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Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998
22:40:13 EST
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Car buying service
I'd recommend - Off topic
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Hi Frank, on the Jeep...They look good but the Doctor next
door has nothing
but problems with it. The dash electronics keep going on the
blink. His
Limited is on a tow hook more then he can tow. What would you
consider a full
size truck? I did not want anything big.
I guess a bit
late but I'd still like to know.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message
dated 12/8/98 7:26:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu
writes:
<< ubj: Team3S: Re: Car buying service I'd recommend - Off
topic
Date: 12/8/98 7:26:04 PM Eastern Standard Time
From:
fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu (JEEPers)
Sender:
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To: stealth@starnet.net
CC:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com, Aso8@aol.com
Be ready to total your
Exploer soon b/c it lacks in the muscle to tow a
VR-4. Either go to a
full-size truck or use a Grand Cherokee like Chris
Dotur. I know
of overheating probs w/ Explorers and hopefully your
money doesn't go down
the drain on the purchase.
On Tue, 8 Dec 1998
Aso8@aol.com
wrote:
>>I just bought a Ford Explorer at the tissue price (dealers
cost) no hidden
>>crap.
>>I expected a lot of dealer prep or
mysterious add ons. To the contrary, a
>>clean straight foward deal. I
got the prices off the Carprices.com and then
>>asked for a quote from
AutoVantage.com. I could not match the AutoVantage's
>>price of Zero
over invoice anywhere and I'm good at it. If your
considering
a
>>new purchase, check it out.
>>I'll be using
the new explorer to tow my 91 VR-4 and taking it to
another
>>level.
>>Can I consider the explorer a modification
for my VR-4? (grin)
>>Arty 91 VR-4
>>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 8 21:59:22 1998
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Message-ID: <366E0FC3.E383C0B2@engin.umich.edu>
Date:
Wed, 09 Dec 1998 00:50:59 -0500
From: josesini
<josesini@engin.umich.edu>
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Hi,
I was just wondering what do you think of a
Jeep Cherokee (4.0L I-6) for
towing a VR-4. My friend just bought a new
('99) cherokee to tow his 26
ft sail boat that weights about 5500lbs
including the trailer.
Thanks,
Jose
JEEPers wrote:
>
> Be ready to total your Exploer soon b/c it lacks in the muscle to tow
a
> VR-4. Either go to a full-size truck or use a Grand Cherokee like
Chris
> Dotur. I know of overheating probs w/ Explorers and
hopefully your
> money doesn't go down the drain on the purchase.
>
> On Tue, 8 Dec 1998
> Aso8@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>I just bought a Ford Explorer at the tissue price (dealers cost) no
hidden
> >>crap.
> >>I expected a lot of dealer prep or
mysterious add ons. To the contrary, a
> >>clean straight foward
deal. I got the prices off the Carprices.com and then
> >>asked for
a quote from AutoVantage.com. I could not match the AutoVantage's
>
>>price of Zero over invoice anywhere and I'm good at it. If your
considering a
> >>new purchase, check it out.
> >>I'll
be using the new explorer to tow my 91 VR-4 and taking it to another
>
>>level.
> >>Can I consider the explorer a modification for my
VR-4? (grin)
> >>Arty 91 VR-4
> >>
>
>
Frank
>
-JEEPers-
>
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
>
> MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>
> "Jeep is America's
only real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date:
Wed, 09 Dec 1998 07:10:52 -0800
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Team3S: Re: Car buying service I'd recommend - Off topic
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josesini wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I
was just wondering what do you think of a Jeep Cherokee (4.0L I-6) for
>
towing a VR-4. My friend just bought a new ('99) cherokee to tow his
26
> ft sail boat that weights about 5500lbs including the
trailer.
This is a good additional 3S point of interest Jose...what is
the total towing weight of a
Stealth TT or a VR4 TT once it is trailered??
AWD's do not take to 2 or 4 wheel towing, so
a trailer is a
prerequisite...and that bumps up the towing weight a bit more than
most
suburban assault vehicles can handle. My Brother in law says his Jeep
Grande really isn't
equipped to handle his 5th wheel regardless of his add
ons to assist in the towing, and is
trading it in on truck after 6 months of
owning it.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 9 07:19:20 1998
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Subject: Team3S: Hot
Rod
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Hi Group;
I caught the end of Hot
Rod (the TV version sponsored by the magazine)
two days back. They were
closing the programe as usual with a few items
one can puchase to upgrade any
number of vehicles. The last item they
showcased (for 20 seconds maybe) was a
hand held computer that they said
would do diagnositics on the new
"modern computer operated cars". They
said a number of harnesses
were available to plug into virtually any new
car modle out there. Because
the piece was so short I did not get a
name, and unlike all other
merchandise showcased, they did not quote a
price...I suspect because if one
has to ask, one cann't afford it.
Anyway, has anyone seen this same clip, or
the product, heard of it,
etc...and will it work on our
cars??
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 9 07:23:22 1998
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Subject: Team3S:
Correction
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Correction....That is not a 5th wheel my Brother i n
Law
owns...sorry...but about the same size (30-35 feet or thereabouts). If
I
don't start of the day with a mistake or two, I don't feel normal. ;
)
Darc
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 9 08:21:05 1998
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Team3S: Re: Tow Vehicles
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At the risk of perpetuating a somewhat 3Si-ish thread on
this tech
group, I'll add my $.02. A four-door Explorer with the
5.0 V8 will do
okay towing a 3S/trailer combo, though you may have
transmission
problems if you tow it extensively and handling could get a bit
dicey.
If you bought an Explorer with the 3.0 or 4.0 V6 then it's going to
be
that much harder on the engine and transmission. A 5.2 or 5.9
V8
equipped Cherokee/Durango is only slightly better off than the 5.0
V8
Explorer, and I share Arty's fear of reliability considering the
track
record of those vehicles. Extreme Motorsports uses a 5.2 V8
Grand
Cherokee to tow Sean's Talon. They apparently hate it and want
to
replace it with something more appropriate/reliable, but it's
gotten
them where they needed to go for quite some time.
Now, if
you're planning to tow more frequently, say a few times a month,
then JEEPers
is correct and a full-size truck is much more appropriate.
Before I left
Maryland to come here to Germany earlier this year, I had
a '96 F-250 with
the 7.3 PowerStroke turbo diesel V8 (I sure hated to
sell that truck but it
would have been a nightmare over here on these
narrow European
streets!). I towed my Stealth (among other cars, once
two at a time) on
a HUGE flatbed trailor and it was obvious that I had
the right vehicle for
the job. Probably overkill in your case, but
overkill is good when
towing. Any of the diesel pickups offered by the
big three are
excellent for towing and, if properly maintained, will be
much more reliable
and fuel efficient than gas engines with similar
capabilities. I
understand that the latest PowerStroke-equipped F250 is
now making 235 HP and
500 LB-FT of torque! (Mine had 215/420.)
But that's not what you
want to hear when you have a new Explorer
sitting in the driveway. As I
said, any of the long wheelbase V8
equipped sport-utes should be okay for
occasional towing. Just remember
that they have a high center of
gravity and a relatively short
wheelbase, both characteristics undesireable
for any tow vehicle. Keep
the speed down and remember to let the
vehicle idle for a few minutes
after towing so that the ATF doesn't
cook. Good luck!!
-Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided
brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 9 10:02:14 1998
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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998
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From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Hot Rod
References:
<366E948D.88DD1EB1@bc.sympatico.ca>
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There are a variety of 'scan tools' out there, Snap-On,
etc...dunno how
well they work on our cars.
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
> Hot Rod TV showcased hand held computer that
> would do
diagnositics on "modern computer operated cars". The
> harnesses
were available for virtually any new
> car model. I did not get
name; did not quote
> price. has anyone seen this and will it work
on our cars?
> Darc
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 9 17:35:01 1998
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From:
"Oskar" <swede@pclink.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Tow
Vehicles
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:32:48 -0600
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Arty, here's the solution that will make
it a breeze to tow your VR-4 with
the Explorer: Strip the VR-4 of a
1000lbs!
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998
10:41
Subject: Team3S: Re: Tow Vehicles
>At the risk of
perpetuating a somewhat 3Si-ish thread on this tech
>group, I'll add
my $.02. A four-door Explorer with the 5.0 V8 will do
>okay towing a
3S/trailer combo, though you may have transmission
>problems if you tow it
extensively and handling could get a bit dicey.
>If you bought an Explorer
with the 3.0 or 4.0 V6 then it's going to be
>that much harder on the
engine and transmission. A 5.2 or 5.9 V8
>equipped Cherokee/Durango
is only slightly better off than the 5.0 V8
>Explorer, and I share Arty's
fear of reliability considering the track
>record of those vehicles.
Extreme Motorsports uses a 5.2 V8 Grand
>Cherokee to tow Sean's
Talon. They apparently hate it and want to
>replace it with
something more appropriate/reliable, but it's gotten
>them where they
needed to go for quite some time.
>
>Now, if you're planning to tow
more frequently, say a few times a month,
>then JEEPers is correct and a
full-size truck is much more appropriate.
>Before I left Maryland to come
here to Germany earlier this year, I had
>a '96 F-250 with the 7.3
PowerStroke turbo diesel V8 (I sure hated to
>sell that truck but it would
have been a nightmare over here on these
>narrow European streets!).
I towed my Stealth (among other cars, once
>two at a time) on a HUGE
flatbed trailor and it was obvious that I had
>the right vehicle for the
job. Probably overkill in your case, but
>overkill is good when
towing. Any of the diesel pickups offered by the
>big three are
excellent for towing and, if properly maintained, will be
>much more
reliable and fuel efficient than gas engines with
similar
>capabilities. I understand that the latest
PowerStroke-equipped F250 is
>now making 235 HP and 500 LB-FT of
torque! (Mine had 215/420.)
>
>But that's not what you want to
hear when you have a new Explorer
>sitting in the driveway. As I
said, any of the long wheelbase V8
>equipped sport-utes should be okay for
occasional towing. Just remember
>that they have a high center of
gravity and a relatively short
>wheelbase, both characteristics
undesireable for any tow vehicle. Keep
>the speed down and remember
to let the vehicle idle for a few minutes
>after towing so that the ATF
doesn't cook. Good luck!!
>
> -Jim
>--
>Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
>matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
>
>***
3000GT-Stealth International (3Si) Member #0030
***
>http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
>Jet
Black '94 Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
>Adjustable Active
Suspension, Adjustable Exhaust System
>K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R
(1.0 bar @ 70/84% BADC)
>A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged
Wipers
>Magnecore spark plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
>Metal
Matrix brake pads, custom braided brake lines
>Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4
245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
>G-Tech Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec
@ 113.9 mph
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
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Date:
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From: josesini
<josesini@engin.umich.edu>
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Subject: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
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Does anyone know where I can get any of the following
Brake Pads for our
cars?
and is there one better than another. My
purpose is street and
occasional track days.
Porterfield
R4S,
Performance Friction Z,
KVR carbon fiber,
Hawk HPS,
or
Pagid/Racing
Oh yeah, I forgot, I have a 92 Stealth
TT.
Regarding the speedbleeders, I put an order last time I changed my
brake
fluid and I got 4 identical speedbleeders. They only fit in the
front
calipers, so the rears still have the original bleeders.
Does
anyone know the right size for the rear speedbleeders? Or if
anyone
wants to buy 4 rear bleeders, I will trade him my 2 extra front
bleeders (new
never installed) for 2 new rear ones.
Jose
Jose
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 00:03:20 1998
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:29:26 +1100 (EST)
From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Porterfield you can get direct from them at
714-548-4470. The R4 is
made of carbon kevlar, very high heat
tolerance, and very streetable,
no need to heat up, and easy on the rotors.
R4S is more of a street pad.
---josesini
<josesini@engin.umich.edu> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I
can get any of the following Brake Pads for
our
> cars?
> and is
there one better than another. My purpose is street and
> occasional
track days.
>
> Porterfield R4S,
> Performance Friction
Z,
> KVR carbon fiber,
> Hawk HPS, or
>
Pagid/Racing
>
> Oh yeah, I forgot, I have a 92 Stealth TT.
>
> Regarding the speedbleeders, I put an order last time I changed
my
brake
> fluid and I got 4 identical speedbleeders. They only
fit in the front
> calipers, so the rears still have the original
bleeders.
>
> Does anyone know the right size for the rear
speedbleeders? Or if
> anyone wants to buy 4 rear bleeders, I will
trade him my 2 extra front
> bleeders (new never installed) for 2 new rear
ones.
>
> Jose
>
> Jose
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
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Jose,
If you are running stock rotors you'll
running into danger to warp them due to
the hard pads. The rotors will just
getting way too hot !
> Performance Friction Z,
They are good
for the stock rotors (Jim has them)
> KVR carbon fiber,
Good
for racing but a lot of dust and I don't know how the wear of the rotors
will
then be.
> Hawk HPS, or
> Pagid/Racing
Dunno about the
Hawks but the Pagids are aggressive ones. Together with the
Bremsa rotors
they work good when they have to bite. The stock rotors cannot
withstand them
!
I'll test the new japanese Formula 3 pads with the Pagids next year in
the hope
that the light warping feeling when braking softly will go
away.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:29:36 +1100 (EST)
From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Porterfield you can get direct from them at
714-548-4470. The R4 is
made of carbon kevlar, very high heat
tolerance, and very streetable,
no need to heat up, and easy on the rotors.
R4S is more of a street pad.
---josesini
<josesini@engin.umich.edu> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I
can get any of the following Brake Pads for
our
> cars?
> and is
there one better than another. My purpose is street and
> occasional
track days.
>
> Porterfield R4S,
> Performance Friction
Z,
> KVR carbon fiber,
> Hawk HPS, or
>
Pagid/Racing
>
> Oh yeah, I forgot, I have a 92 Stealth TT.
>
> Regarding the speedbleeders, I put an order last time I changed
my
brake
> fluid and I got 4 identical speedbleeders. They only
fit in the front
> calipers, so the rears still have the original
bleeders.
>
> Does anyone know the right size for the rear
speedbleeders? Or if
> anyone wants to buy 4 rear bleeders, I will
trade him my 2 extra front
> bleeders (new never installed) for 2 new rear
ones.
>
> Jose
>
> Jose
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
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Exactly. Now that's a great idea. Btw, I was looking at a
trailor and found
out the steel trailors weighs about 1700 lbs. That plus the
car is more then I
could tow. I'm told there are "free spinning
hubs" that can be used? I don't
know if these are usable but anyone know
something about it?
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated 12/9/98 5:36:23
PM Pacific Standard Time, swede@pclink.com
writes:
<< Subj: Re:
Team3S: Re: Tow Vehicles
Date: 12/9/98 5:36:23 PM Pacific Standard
Time
From: swede@pclink.com (Oskar)
Sender:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Arty, here's the solution that will make
it a breeze to tow your VR-4 with
the Explorer: Strip the VR-4 of a
1000lbs!
- >>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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I'm not sure if this is on topic? I just got a great
surprise.
Someone just gave me a video of my track run from 10/17/98, where I
ran 11.68.
This was the run just before my 11.41. Can this be posted somehow
for viewing?
I thought others may find it interesting too. How could this be
done?
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 11:03:46 1998
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:55:22
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
References: <366F3DB8.A3570FFF@engin.umich.edu>
<366F9116.D72D80C7@swissonline.ch>
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Roger,
Right now I have the stillen cross-drilled
rotors with metal matrix
pads. I'm happy with their performance over
stock but as you can
imagine I'm looking for something better. As far
as reliability, I
think that they are pretty good, no worping nor cracking or
anything
else. After autocrossing for half a season with them I can
attest that
I did not have brake fade with it but I think this is because of
the
SCCA autocrosses limited speeds. The only time I felt fade was at
the
DSM shootout 98 - autocross. It was my fourth run and I had to take
a
90 degree turn after going 80+ mph. Wow, it caught me by surprise,
it
was one of the last turns so I was able to control the car after
that.
For this coming season I'm planning on entering some time-trials
(as
well as autocrossing) and I know the brakes will fade at high speeds
so
I want something better.
Anyhow, I'm leaning toward the KVR
or the Potterfields pads. How do you
think the stillen crossdrilled
rotors will hold up against these
pads?
Thanks,
Jose
"R.G." wrote:
>
>
Jose,
>
> If you are running stock rotors you'll running into
danger to warp them due to
> the hard pads. The rotors will just getting
way too hot !
>
> > Performance Friction Z,
>
>
They are good for the stock rotors (Jim has them)
>
> > KVR
carbon fiber,
>
> Good for racing but a lot of dust and I don't
know how the wear of the rotors
> will then be.
>
> > Hawk
HPS, or
> > Pagid/Racing
>
> Dunno about the Hawks but the
Pagids are aggressive ones. Together with the
> Bremsa rotors they work
good when they have to bite. The stock rotors cannot
> withstand them
!
>
> I'll test the new japanese Formula 3 pads with the Pagids
next year in the hope
> that the light warping feeling when braking softly
will go away.
>
> -----------------------
> Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 10 11:17:29 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Injectors
Date:
Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:17:52 -0800
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Howdy folks...
I've been conversing with a couple
of you off-line and I'm somewhat confused
so I've decided to take it public.
There seems to be a variety of opinions
about upgrading injectors. I'm going
to be installing a set of TEC 15G
turbos and I want to upgrade the fuel
delivery system with a set of 550 or
560 injectors (plus pump). I've been
hearing about RC, HKS, and Nippon Denso
brands.
A couple
questions...
1. Does anyone have comparison data on these brands (and
others)?
2. Lacking quantifiable data, what are you using and
why?
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride
with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re: Tow
Vehicles
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Arty,
I have two suggestions for you.
1. Buy
a supercharger.
2. Sell your explore in Colorado, SUV are a high
commodity hear, and believe it or not
you might get more money than you paid
for it. I have a friend that use to be in the
used car business and he
told me that if you have an SUV it like money in the bank.
(Tell you what if
your interested in that suggestion e-mail me privately and ill give
you more
detailed info).
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 11:27:27 1998
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:22:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Satya Palani
<satya@gho.st>
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Subject: Team3S: SRS light
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So I took my car into the dealer this morning to have them
fix a broken
water pump. My SRS light has been on for a couple of
months now, and I
figured I'd have them reset it while it was there.
When I found out that
the pirates wanted $42(!) to reset it, I told them to
forget about it.
I'm wondering: what are my options? The ignition
key trick didn't turn
off the light for me, and I really don't want to take
apart my dash to
unplug the bulb... Will I have to pay the $42 if I
want it off at this
point, or is there some other secret trick I can
try?
Thanks in advance,
--
Satya
Palani
satya@gho.st
http://www.longshadows.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 11:31:02 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:31:26 -0800
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Howdy folks (again)...
I'm following my own advice
(rare but it happens) and separating my
questions by subject matter.
:-)
I'm running a stock engine with a GReddy boost controller, HKS
intake, and
ATR/GReddy 3" exhaust. I run the boost at 1.0bar. I have
Magnecore wires and
a set of HKS Platinum plugs (which I'm told are made by
NGK) which are one
range colder than stock. I've been running them at .034,
but based on
someone's post a few months back, have dropped them to .030.
Now, I'm planning on installing 15G turbos and new injectors
(previous
post). My questions:
1. Assuming I run up to 1.4 or 1.6bar
(20 to 23psi) of boost with adequate
fuel delivery, what should my plug gap
be?
2. Other potential problems?
BTW...I have an extra set of
Magnecore 8.5mm wires for sale. They're worth
$150 new, make me an
offer.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends
ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:57:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Satya Palani
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To:
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark plug gap
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On Thu, 10 Dec 1998, Chris Winkley wrote:
> I
have Magnecore wires and a set of HKS Platinum plugs (which I'm told
> are
made by NGK) which are one range colder than stock. I've been
> running
them at .034, but based on someone's post a few months back,
> have
dropped them to .030.
On a vaguely related note, is there any value in
changing the gap on the
plugs in a non-turbo car? I've seen a lot of
recommendations for gaps on
the turbo models, but nothing on the NTs.
Without serious mods (I only
have an FIPK), I suspect the stock gap should be
appropriate, but I'm
asking on the off-chance that it might make a
difference...
--
Satya
Palani
satya@gho.st
http://www.longshadows.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:11:49 -0700
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> -----Original
Message-----
<snip>
> Now, I'm planning on installing 15G
turbos and new injectors (previous
> post). My questions:
>
>
1. Assuming I run up to 1.4 or 1.6bar (20 to 23psi) of boost with
adequate
> fuel delivery, what should my plug gap be?
I used to run
0.030" and switched to 0.035" with NGK R-type plugs
(double
platinum like yours). No problems at all at 21 psi and stock
plug wires.
Running too small of a gap can rob a lot of power. I now
believe 0.030" is
excessively small but it really depends on the overall
health of the
ignition.
> 2. Other potential
problems?
Octane. 21 psi requires 116 octane fuel. Using
lesser fuel will cause
knock which will cause the ECU to take out timing and
therefore reduce
power. I don't know what the lower limit is for octane
assuming the ECU has
removed as much timing as it can. I would expect
that it is still well
above any fuel readily available at the
pump.
Fuel control if you don't already have that addressed. VPC or
at a minimum
an AFC. Neither of these choices would be my first but the
MASC is no
longer available. You could get into the reprogrammed ECU
game but you spin
your bottle and take your chances. Officially the VPC
is not available from
HKS for the 2G cars...
<snip>
>
Looking forward...Chris
>
> "Friends don't let friends ride
with me"
>
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:15:17 -0700
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stealth-3000gt
The stock gap should be just right. The reason for
reducing the gap on the
turbo engines is that high cylinder pressures will
increase misfires if the
gap is wide. A smaller gap reduces spark
intensity however so it is a
tradeoff.
Some people run as low as
0.028". If you have to run less than 0.032" in a
turbo car it
is time to upgrade the ignition, IMO, since you really are
throwing HP out
the window. I plan to get an amplifier and get the gap back
up to
0.038" or above once the engine is back
together.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Satya Palani
>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 12:57 PM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark plug gap
<snip>
> On a vaguely related
note, is there any value in changing the gap on the
> plugs in a non-turbo
car? I've seen a lot of recommendations for gaps on
> the turbo
models, but nothing on the NTs. Without serious mods (I only
> have
an FIPK), I suspect the stock gap should be appropriate, but I'm
> asking
on the off-chance that it might make a difference...
>
> --
>
Satya Palani
> satya@gho.st
> http://www.longshadows.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 13:00:44 1998
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Chris, .028 gap with 1.4 or 1.6 bar. Other potential
problems - Hold on tight
:)
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message dated
12/10/98 11:38:15 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com
writes:
<<
1. Assuming I run up to 1.4 or 1.6bar (20 to 23psi)
of boost with adequate
fuel delivery, what should my plug gap be?
2. Other
potential problems?
>>
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web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:31:52
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From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark plug gap
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Satya Palani wrote:
> On a vaguely related note,
is there any value in changing the gap on the
> plugs in a non-turbo
car? I've seen a lot of recommendations for gaps on
> the turbo
models, but nothing on the NTs. Without serious mods (I only
> have
an FIPK), I suspect the stock gap should be appropriate, but I'm
> asking
on the off-chance that it might make a difference...
The mechanic at my
local Mitsubishi service shop used to set up
and race Detroit muscle cars
back in the 60's. He told me that
running low spark plug gap (as low as
0.026) has always been
considered one of the "tricks" from a
dragracer's "bag." Of course,
whether or not this will help
your mostly-stock N/A 3.0L V6
(versus a fuel-gobbling, overbored big-block
V8) is subject to
debate. I would surmise that the gains for your car
would be
negligible.
--Errin Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
References: <366F3DB8.A3570FFF@engin.umich.edu>
<366F9116.D72D80C7@swissonline.ch>
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> Right now I have the stillen cross-drilled rotors
with metal matrix
> pads. I'm happy with their performance over
stock but as you can
> imagine I'm looking for something better.
I
can't speak for the Stillens. The first aftermarket rotors I got where the
GTR
combos, not crossdrilled but dimpled. The quality, material and pads
are
comparable to the Stillens. They worked good and in rain better than the
stock
ones... for about three months. Then summer came and I went to speeds
over
120mph. I had to brake heavily around 120-150mph and the brakes got then
warped
within minutes. No chance to get them turned due to the dimples so I
searched
for another solution.
The Bremsas Mikael and I are running
are better but we currently have a slight
warped feeling when braking softly.
Getting hard onto them and they stop very
good. But I also managed to get
them over the edge this year when I had to brake
at 160mph ! I sent them back
to Bremsa and they checked them out. They found
that they where 0.1mm thicker
on one side and grinded them. Unfortunately still
then the temperatures went
down and I never had the chance to heat them up that
much again. They also
offered me to test another set of racing pads. We'll see
how they
go.
As Stillen now has ap Racing calipers and better rotors than the
Brembos I'd
contact them if they are planning to create a new setup for our
cars.
BTW, I currently have the Bremsas on the rear and the stock ones on
the front. I
noticed that the car now tends to oversteer when braking into
the curves, sure
as the rear ones bite harder. As the US versions do have
smaller front rotors
this could be the cause of more oversteering when
braking into turns as I have.
Opinons ?
//
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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At my dyno tests I've gapped the plugs to 0.032 (0.036
stock). The tuning guy as
well as Brian and other told me to decrease the gap
to 0.028. I guess I'll leave
them at 0.030 for now as I don't have any
trouble nor bad idle :)
> I plan to get an amplifier and get the gap
back
> up to 0.038" or above once the engine is back
together.
Let us know what brand and type you are considering (Accel,
Taylor, MSD, etc.)
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 13:36:18 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: SRS light
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> My SRS light has been on for a couple of months now,
and I
> figured I'd have them reset it while it was there. When I
found out that
> the pirates wanted $42(!) to reset it, I told them to
forget about it.
They are really pirates ! The dealers here just plug
there tool into the
connctor and go into the menu... voilà.. no
costs.
But for your SRS light, how do you know that everything is working
? A year ago
I washed my car a little bit too good and sprayed some water
under the front
bumper. After this the SRS light stayed on. The Mitsu dealer
got an error code
saying one of the front the front crash sensor do not work.
After getting them
out we found some water in the connectors causing a short
circuit. We cleaned
them and sprayed some silicone spray onto them. No
problem so far :) Sorry,
can't remember if they had to reset the code but I'd
try to check out first what
error you're
getting.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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> On a vaguely related note, is there any value in
changing the gap on the
> plugs in a non-turbo car? I've seen a lot
of recommendations for gaps on
> the turbo models, but nothing on the
NTs. Without serious mods (I only
> have an FIPK), I suspect the
stock gap should be appropriate, but I'm
> asking on the off-chance that
it might make a difference...
Yes, stock gapping is fine for NT cars.
You'd not benefit of a lower gap as you
don't supply the chambers with more
pressure. Regapping is only neccessary when
increasing boost (e.g. adding a
supercharger).
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 10 13:36:27 1998
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> > 2. Other potential problems?
>
>
Octane. 21 psi requires 116 octane fuel.
<snip>
I agree
150% with Barry !! Just remember what low octane did to my engine,
better
said, what detonation did !
> Fuel control if you don't already have
that addressed. VPC or at a minimum
> an AFC. Neither of these
choices would be my first but the MASC is no
> longer available. You
could get into the reprogrammed ECU game but you spin
> your bottle and
take your chances.
I'd also add a bigger fuel pump to be sure enough of
the drink is provided on
high boosts. Also a boost-dependant fuel-pressure
regulator would be probably a
good idea. The AFC is ok for WOT
runs.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:43:42 -0700
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Back in the 60s there may not have been the high energy
and reliable output
ignitions as are common in most consumer cars
today.
I would question him as to why 0.026" is better than say
0.032" for a
particular engine. At 0.026" you can be
reasonably assured that you will
never misfire IFF the spark is big enough to
actually ignite the charge. If
there is not enough spark energy then
the plug may as well not even be in
the hole since the charge simply won't
ignite. At some point too small of a
gap is very bad. Typically,
the bigger the gap the better if the ignition
can handle it given the
cylinder pressure.
A wide gap with lots of juice supplied to it is almost
always better since
the spark is big, long and hot which results in more
complete combustion.
The trick is finding the best combination of gap and
spark energy for a
given
application.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Errin D.
>
Humphrey
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 2:32 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
<snip>
> The mechanic at my local Mitsubishi service
shop used to set up
> and race Detroit muscle cars back in the 60's.
He told me that
> running low spark plug gap (as low as 0.026) has always
been
> considered one of the "tricks" from a dragracer's
"bag." Of course,
> whether or not this will help your
mostly-stock N/A 3.0L V6
> (versus a fuel-gobbling, overbored big-block
V8) is subject to
> debate. I would surmise that the gains for your
car would be
> negligible.
>
> --Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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In addition, I think the lower plug gap (set to .028) will
help avoid
detonation & keep the EGT's lower. I can see the difference
between .028 &
.030 on my Temp gauge.
Arty 91 VR-4
In a message
dated 12/10/98 12:17:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
beking@home.com
writes:
<< Subj: RE: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
Date: 12/10/98 12:17:47 PM Pacific Standard Time
From: beking@home.com
(Barry E. King)
Sender: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Reply-to:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
The
stock gap should be just right. The reason for reducing the gap on
the
turbo engines is that high cylinder pressures will increase misfires if
the
gap is wide. A smaller gap reduces spark intensity however so it is
a
tradeoff.
Some people run as low as 0.028". If you have
to run less than 0.032" in a
turbo car it is time to upgrade the
ignition, IMO, since you really are
throwing HP out the window. I plan
to get an amplifier and get the gap back
up to 0.038" or above once the
engine is back together.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Satya Palani
>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 12:57 PM
> To: 'Team3S'
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Spark plug gap
<snip>
> On a vaguely related
note, is there any value in changing the gap on the
> plugs in a non-turbo
car? I've seen a lot of recommendations for gaps on
> the turbo
models, but nothing on the NTs. Without serious mods (I only
> have
an FIPK), I suspect the stock gap should be appropriate, but I'm
> asking
on the off-chance that it might make a difference...
> >>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Spark plug
gap
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:55:20 -0700
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That's because you are not making as much power as you
could be at 0.030" or
higher. If EGTs are higher at 0.030"
then you add a bit more fuel. The
result is going to be better
power.
I don't see how detonation comes into
play.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Aso8@aol.com
>
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 2:24 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Cc: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Spark plug gap
>
>
> In addition, I think the lower
plug gap (set to .028) will help avoid
> detonation & keep the EGT's
lower. I can see the difference between .028 &
> .030 on my Temp
gauge.
> Arty 91 VR-4
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Date: Fri, 11
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From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
<errin@u.washington.edu>
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Brake Pads and speedbleeders?
References:
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<366F9116.D72D80C7@swissonline.ch>
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josesini wrote:
> else. After autocrossing
for half a season with them I can attest that
> I did not have brake fade
with it but I think this is because of the
> SCCA autocrosses limited
speeds. The only time I felt fade was at the
> DSM shootout 98 -
autocross. It was my fourth run and I had to take a
> 90 degree turn
after going 80+ mph. Wow, it caught me by surprise, it
> was one of the
last turns so I was able to control the car after that.
>
> For this
coming season I'm planning on entering some time-trials (as
> well as
autocrossing) and I know the brakes will fade at high speeds so
> I want
something better.
Quick question: How well does your car do on the
autocross
courses? Relative to other cars? I ask because I have
wanted
to give it a try in the future, but I feel that my car just might
not
be appropriate for that kind of racing (becaus of its weight and
awd
makes drifting difficult, and GT-type steering, etc.).
--Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Date:
Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:47:30 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
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Subject: Team3S: Octane formula, was Spark
plug gap
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> Octane. 21 psi requires 116 octane
fuel.
Hey Barry,
I've seen you mention this several times
the last few weeks. What is
the formula for calculating required octane
for a specific psi. I want
to calculate the max boost for the 92 octane
available here in CA.
Thanks,
Ken
--
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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From: "Barry E. King"
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To:
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Subject: RE: Team3S: Octane formula,
was Spark plug gap
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:52:55 -0700
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I do not have the formula at hand but have seen it in some
SAE paper
somewhere before.
I use the Java applets at Ray Hall's
site
http://www.internetnorth.com.au/turbofast/
Basically it
calculates the detonation point based on cylinder pressures
(presumably
ignoring ignition timing or assuming optimal) and selects the
octane which
resists detonation at that
pressure.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
> Hey Barry,
>
> I've seen you mention this
several times the last few weeks. What is
> the formula for
calculating required octane for a specific psi. I want
> to
calculate the max boost for the 92 octane available here in CA.
>
>
Thanks,
> Ken
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
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> Regarding the speedbleeders, I put an order last
time I changed my brake
> fluid and I got 4 identical speedbleeders.
They only fit in the front
> calipers, so the rears still have the
original bleeders.
>
> Does anyone know the right size for the rear
speedbleeders? Or if
> anyone wants to buy 4 rear bleeders, I will
trade him my 2 extra front
> bleeders (new never installed) for 2 new rear
ones.
Hi Jose,
This is strange. My '91 VR4 uses identical
sizes on all four corners,
and even in the clutch slave cylinder. I
bought 5 Speedbleeders, part #
SB1010, 10mm x 1.0. I'd be very suprised
if the rear calipers were
different between a '91 and '92.
If you have
a thread gauge, pull out a rear bleed screw and measure it.
I'm certain the
Speedbleeder guy would be happy to do an exchange for
you.
Good
luck,
Ken
--
Ken Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619)
455-4510
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Autocross (was: Brake Pads and speedbleeders)
References:
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> Quick question: How well does your car do on
the autocross
> courses? Relative to other cars? I ask because
I have wanted
> to give it a try in the future, but I feel that my car
just might not
> be appropriate for that kind of racing (becaus of its
weight and
> awd makes drifting difficult, and GT-type steering,
etc.).
After some driving schools I know the car better and I can say
that drifts are
very possible and you'll drift over all four wheels earlier
than expected when
hitting the gas in a corner :) Weight is really a problem
and plays an important
rule. But with enough boost your tourque courve will
be high and flat and you'll
never fall the rpms below 4000. There's plenty of
power available for the fun. I
don't know what the autocross courses look
like in the States as we usually race
on Racing roads (Formula 1 and other
classes) in Europe but if you have more
low-gear turns then the weight rules
much more. The real bad thing is the SRS
steering wheel. It's just too big
and not good for racing. I hit my knees
several times to it but there's no
replacement with an airbag available :(
//
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:33:24
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From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
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"Errin D. Humphrey" wrote:
<SNIP>
> Quick question: How well does your car do on the
autocross
> courses? Relative to other cars? I ask because I
have wanted
> to give it a try in the future, but I feel that my car just
might not
> be appropriate for that kind of racing (becaus of its weight
and
> awd makes drifting difficult, and GT-type steering, etc.).
>
> --Errin Humphrey
It all depends on the course layout. Most
SCCA autocrosses (Solo II)
attempt to layout a really narrow and slow course
(no more than 45 mph)
due to the very sharp and consecutive turns. In
this case, the weight
is a big problem so is heavy understeer. Solution
- first get wheels
9.5 or 10 in wide with 36mm offset or lower and mount R1
tires
275-40R17s or wider if you can. You will be amazed at how
the
understeer gets reduced, and your times improve.
2nd get better shocks
and springs (gabs and eibach or ground control)
But here in the Detroit
SCCA section, 50% of the times the courses get
set up by some guy running a
Street Prepared or Modified Mustang so they
know that fast courses it's
better for their cars (and mine) so we hit
60mph and voila the times relative
to others improve.
Unfortunately (or fortunate as you will see) not too
many cars get
entered in my class so usually I run against very few other
cars like 5
or so. I'm glad to say that I've always gotten 2nd or 1st
place. I do
have to say that my last autocross of the season was at the
DSM
shootout, where I fried my clutch (barely made it home), so I
was
running only stock boost (7-10psi), and I didn't have R1 tires.
Ended
up in the middle of my class something like 17/27 or something
like
that. That was a fast autocross 80+ mph, and long over 100sec
laps
compare to the SCCA's 40 to 60sec laps.
Anyhow, I've discovered
the secret is to be smooth on turns,and to break
heavily before the turn so
you can accelerate as you reach the apex, and
come out at WOT with fully
spooled turbos out of each turn without
understeering too much.
Good
luck!
Jose
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:42:36
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
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Hi,
Skip this reply if your track is a drag
strip. Stock pads would work
fine for the short time you need them and
there is plenty of time to let
the brake system cool down before the next
run.
For a Road Course Track:
Stock pads will get you thru
about 60 track miles.
>Porterfield R4S,
That is a street pad.
The track pad is an R4 (part 513 for the TT). I
have had the best
longevity with the R4. It will usually last 2 days of
driving school
which equates to about 200 track miles.
The "long" life may
perhaps be attributed to Shawn Dewy's BBQ treatment
technique. Thanks
Shawn. Source was ALAMO cost $120. ALAMO stopped
carring
Porterfield, but you can order direct from Porterfield.
>Performance
Friction Z,
Again a street pad. I tried the 83 compound ==
lasted about as long as
stock pads. The pads PF sent me had a much
smaller surface area than
the
stock pads and actually cut a grove in my
rotors. Source was PF direct
and cost was $200. [plus replacement
rotors at $86 each] I'll never buy
from PF again.
>KVR carbon
fiber, Pagid
Haven't tried these yet.
>Hawk HPS
Another street
pad. So far I've used one set of the Hawk GOLD
compound. It
lasted a complete school day plus one session == about 120
miles. The
GOLD pads gave the best pedal feel and best positive braking
I've had so
far. Source Fred Baker Porsche 800 584-4707. Cost
$150.
>Oh yeah, I forgot, I have a 92 Stealth TT.
OOOooppps.
With the 92 tiny rotors, you'll be lucky to get half of the
life at the
track. Although Mitsu increased the size of the rotors in
1994, they
didn't also increase the size of the pads. That would have
made a BIG
difference.
P.S. I dont't use track pads on the street -- only on the
track.
If you are going to do road track events,
1. Use Ford
brake fluid
2. Get Stainless braded lines
3. Install cooling ducts
4.
Go slow -- but fast thru the turns
See Adventures in Braking at my
website
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538
I must
replace th rear turbo I blew at Raod Atlanta last month. But
before the
turbo, I have to get better brake life.
Right now I'm planning to upgrade to
a larger caliper/pad for the 99
season. So far Brad's BIG brakes seem like
the easiest solution.
[snip]
>Josesini
wrote:
>Does anyone know where I can get any of the following Brake Pads
for our >cars? and is there one better than another. My purpose is
street and
>occasional track days.
Be of good
cheer
John
--
JCZoooM 93 TT 12.46@109Mph '94Brakes 4
warranty Getrags
If Getrag replaced call Chrysler 800 992-1997 &
register complaint
http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/flats/4538 VR4's Mitsu
at 800
222-0037
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 11 04:24:01 1998
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From:
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Subject: Team3S: Stearing
wheel
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:21:26 +0100
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I have planned to replace the "truck style"
stearing wheel to an aftermarket like Momo or something like that, but I feel
that an airbag can be a good thing to have if...
I was looking at the
japaneese mitsu site today and they have pictures of a good looking (or atleast
much better looking) stearing wheel on the legnum/galant
vr4.
http://www.mitsubishi-motors.co.jp/PRODUCTSS/legnumv.html
Does anyone
know if it's possible to use this stearing wheel in a 3000gt vr4 (93) and have
full functionality on the airbag ?????
/Mikael
http://www.bahnhof.se/~vr4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
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From owner-stealth-3000gt
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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:43:57
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Steering wheel /
synchros, parts / infos
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Ahhh, this is really a nice thing ! I like it for sure.
Just got off the phone
with a responsible person of Mitsu Switzerland and he
told me that the VR-4 type
cars will not find their way to Europe :(( The
Legnum would be the perfect
business car for me ! Till today these cars will
not made for left steering
countries.
> Does anyone know if it's
possible to use this stearing wheel in a 3000gt vr4
> (93) and have full
functionality on the airbag ?????
Unfortunately, Mitsu changed the design
of the hub over the years. The person
said that he can't see any way that it
would fit because the timing of the
airbag will not be the same with the huge
one we currently have and therefore
the security system will not be matched
together. Maybe there will be away that
it will fit but nobody will guarantee
for it. I think keeping the eyes open as
well as trying to contact some
japanese friends would help for the future.
As I had the guy on the phone
I also asked him about synchros and tranny stuff.
He confirmed, that all
parts for our trannies are available seperately as well
as the synchros.
Until 1 1/2 year ago Getrag just sold an exchange tranny (what
I got) when
something went wrong and today a Mitsu dealer can order all the
stuff :) Just
let me know.
Last but not least, I asked them for any further info and he
just mentioned
something about the 4.8l V8 GDI engine. But this will be again
a concept car and
will have not a lot in common with a future 3000GT plan.
Here in Switzerland
they are selling 8 - 15 cars per year (going lower !) so
it's no wonder that I
almost haven't seen any sister car over the last years.
Furthermore, they think
that the 4-bangers have a better chance and are
currently trying to get the
governments ok for the Galant VR-4 Evo IV Rally
version. This is a 2.0litre
Turbo AWD 4-banger with 290hp ! Prize in
Switzerland will be around the 3000GT
TT prize,
ouch.
Cheers,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 11 08:13:44 1998
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From:
"Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: EGR Trivia
Date:
Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:12:16 -0800
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None of these EGR posts have given me a warm fuzzy
feeling, so I've
been doing a ton of research on the EGR valve.
Put
simply, the purpose of the EGR valve is for emissions reasons.
It is designed
to reduce production of NOx gasses in the exhaust. The way it
does this is to
recirculate exhaust into the intake charge. The amount of
exhaust allowed
back into the intake charge is between 6%-10%. If it were
anything other than
exhaust gas being returned to the intake, say plain old
air, you'd have some
problems with air/fuel mixture and also temperature.
This is NOT what
happens.
Just the opposite effect occurs. Since there is no O2 in the
exhaust
gas, the recirculated axhaust is INERT and has a COOLING effect on
the
combustion process. The purpose of the EGR is to keep the
combustion
temperature below 2500F, the temp where NOx is produced. Any temps
above
2500F cause NOx to be produced. If the EGR is disabled/blocked you not
only
lose this quenching effect of the inert exhaust gasses in the
combustion
chamber, but you also get poor performance, as Barry King noted,
due to the
ECU continuing its' advancement of timing and fuel enrichment.
This is
because the ECU is clueless that you have removed the EGR from the
equation.
So what you get is poor performance. The engine runs with the wrong
timing
and the wrong fuel enrichment. You also increase chances of detonation
risk
because you've removed a system designed to cool the intake charge to
under
2500F!
So some may say, "Well, then... I'll just play with
my MASC/VPC/AFC
to lean the fuel to compensate for the missing EGR and I'll
also install an
ITC to compensate for the new timing required." This
still leaves the issue
of losing the cooling effect of the intake
charge to avoid increased
chances of detontaion.
Bottom line: I don't
see how perfomance can be improved by removing
this system. If anything I
think it makes performance worse. Tell me why I'm
wrong guys.
Please.
Thanks!
--------------------------------------
Dave
Allison
Network Engineer
Siebel Systems, Inc.
1875 South Grant
San
Mateo, CA
94402
650-295-5410
dallison@siebel.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Fontana
[mailto:bfontana@securitytechnologies.com]
Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998
7:30 AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out
the champaign! (headers)
The ECU closes the valve under boost, so we
know there's no detriment to
performance by running without it while in
boosted state. When cruising,
the ECU will open the valve up even when
the motor is warm. But after two
years of stick time with the block
plate installed, I was still getting 24
MPG @ 80 MPH. It's hard to tell
just what the down side of this
modification is other than "removing or
modifying a pollution control
device". :-)
-Bob
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Barry E. King
>
Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:27 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Break out the
champaign! (headers)
>
>
> The exhaust pressure idea is a good
one.
>
> > What about a tapped line that allows to messure the
pressure in
> > the manifold
> > before the turbo. This would
be great for preventing any
> > pre-knock situation as
> > too
much back-pressure can cause knock and a pressure sensor acts
> > more
quick
> > than an EGT probe. I think I'll do this on the front one as
there
> > is more space
> > available :)
>
> The
problem with getting rid of the EGR is that the ECU still thinks it is
>
there and behaves accordingly. It activates it even though there
>
is nothing
> to activate. Once activated the ECU will adjust timing
and mixture to
> compensate for the heat. This of course changes the
tune of the vehicle.
> Manually adjustig for it leaves the car out of tune
once the EGR is
> deactivated by the ECU. What really needs to
happen is the EGR
> code in the
> ECU also be
eliminated.
>
> > Therefore, you also blocked the EGR pipe, right
? I'd do
> > everything to keep the
> > intake cool and this
would be the first one. Unfortunately,
> > emmission test must
>
> be done evry two years. Also my mechanic told me that blocking
> >
the EGR can kill
> > the rear pre-cat due to the hotter gases (huh ?).
Comments ?
> >
> > -----------------------
> > Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
> > 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
>
>
> Regards,
>
> Barry
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 11 08:30:19 1998
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGR
Trivia
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:30:28 -0700
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Great stuff Dave. Furthermore, even WITH some sort
of compensating device
that device would have to be smart enough to
compensate ONLY during EGR
operation (which is BTW readable from the ECU) and
switch back to "normal"
compensation when the EGR was
inactive.
Someone locally suggested not to mess with the Mistu EGR but
they were
unable to give me an explanation I could understand. I
recently did get an
explanation from another Dodge/Mtsi mechanic (one who
actually modifies
these things) and his explanation totally backs up what
your research
suggests. Messing with the EGR is a bad thing unless the
ECU is
reprogrammed to
compensate.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
<reluctantly snipped>
> So some may say,
"Well, then... I'll just play with my MASC/VPC/AFC
> to lean the fuel
to compensate for the missing EGR and I'll also
> install an
> ITC
to compensate for the new timing required." This still leaves
> the
issue
> of losing the cooling effect of the intake charge to avoid
increased
> chances of detontaion.
>
> Bottom line: I don't
see how perfomance can be improved by removing
> this system. If anything
I think it makes performance worse. Tell
> me why I'm
> wrong guys.
Please.
>
> Thanks!
>
>
--------------------------------------
> Dave Allison
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 11 09:21:35 1998
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brake Pads and
speedbleeders?
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:21:32 -0500
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Try http://www.ogracing.com/
They carry a huge
assortment of race products, including the full line of
Performance Friction
brake pads, and the full line of RedLine fluids.
As for autocrossing, yes
the 3000 is too heavy for tight courses. The car is
amazing over 80 mph, and
good in the 50-80 region, but on some courses you
never even hit 50 mph.
AutoX layouts vary widely by region, but DC Region
SCCA sets very tight,
low-speed courses. So, as they say, your mileage
will
vary...
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGR
Trivia
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:00:06 -0500
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Hey Dave,
Sounds good. I'm all but convinced
that you have a good point. Under
boost, however, the EGR has none of
these positive effects since the valve
is closed. It it were open
during boost, manifold pressure would exceed the
02 housing and our charge
air would end up leaking out throught the EGR
valve. Detonation while
*not* under boost has never been a problem in these
cars, so I'm left
wondering just what its purpose is other than preheating
the charge air
during initial cold weather startup and perhaps a little
exhaust cleanup
during cruising. What else would it be?
-Bob
>
>
Bottom line: I don't see how perfomance can be improved by removing
> this
system. If anything I think it makes performance worse. Tell
> me why I'm
wrong guys. Please.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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From:
"Dave Allison" <dallison@siebel.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGR
Trivia
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:55:28 -0800
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Good point regarding EGR activation at
boost...
But, if the EGR valve is blocked during boost situations, what
is
the point of removing the device at the expense of engine cruising
quality
and gas mileage?
With your post I'm even MORE confused why
someone would want to
tamper with a subsystem that is irrelevant during WOT
situations.
--------------------------------------
Dave
Allison
Network Engineer
Siebel Systems, Inc.
1875 South Grant
San
Mateo, CA
94402
650-295-5410
dallison@siebel.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Bob Fontana
[mailto:bfontana@securitytechnologies.com]
Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998
3:00 PM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGR
Trivia
Hey Dave,
Sounds good. I'm all but convinced that
you have a good point. Under
boost, however, the EGR has none of these
positive effects since the valve
is closed. It it were open during
boost, manifold pressure would exceed the
02 housing and our charge air would
end up leaking out throught the EGR
valve. Detonation while *not* under
boost has never been a problem in these
cars, so I'm left wondering just what
its purpose is other than preheating
the charge air during initial cold
weather startup and perhaps a little
exhaust cleanup during cruising.
What else would it be?
-Bob
>
> Bottom line: I don't see
how perfomance can be improved by removing
> this system. If anything I
think it makes performance worse. Tell
> me why I'm wrong guys.
Please.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: EGR
Trivia
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:10:24 -0500
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Dave,
The reason I think it's relevant is because
of the copper flex pipe that
connects the 02 housing to the plenum opens up
to a passageway that runs
along the back wall of the plenum on the
inside. When the valve is closed,
this passageway is filled with
1000F-1300F exhaust gas. When it is open,
exhaust gets released into
the plenum. Even if it never opens, the heat
from the exhaust gas will
warm up the plenum. In fact, it gets DAMN hot!
To a drag racer,
anything that heats up charge air handlers is not a good
thing.
Granted, in cruising situations, the EGR is probably of some
benefit.
But in 10, 11 or 12-second bursts, a functioning EGR valve is of
no
importance.
I think. Anyone?
-Bob
> Good point
regarding EGR activation at boost...
>
> But, if the EGR valve is
blocked during boost situations, what is
> the point of removing the
device at the expense of engine cruising
> quality and gas
mileage?
>
> With your post I'm even MORE confused why someone would
want to
> tamper with a subsystem that is irrelevant during WOT
situations.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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Subject: Re: Team3S: EGR Trivia
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EGR open under cruise allows unburnable waste gasses in,
dilutes the
incoming air with no-oxygen air. To compensate, you have to
open the
throttle plate more to let adequate oxygenated air in to do
the
combustion. With throttle open more, there is less pumping loss,
less
VACUUM created, so engine is running same HP with
MORE-OPEN
throttleplate. Creating the intake vacuum wastes a fair
amount of
energy, costs MPG. That is part of the reason Diesel engines
are
efficient (especially with a turbo)--they have NO throttleplate, have
NO
intake vacuum--are at full atmospheric pressure in intake tract at
all
times, no losses to vacuum production/throttling. This is part of
it at
least; there is decrease in NOx production too, as I recall.
Jack
Tertadian
Wishing the Global Warming Farce was real...
Bob Fontana
wrote:
> Under boost EGR has none of these positive effects since
valve
> is closed. If open during boost, manifold pressure would
exceed
> 02 housing; charge air would leak out through EGR
>
valve. Detonation while *not* under boost isn't problem
> so I'm
wondering what purpose is other than preheating
> charge air during cold
startup and
> exhaust cleanup during cruising.
>
-Bob
> > Bottom line: I don't see how perfomance can be improved by
removing
> > this system. If anything I think it makes performance
worse. Tell
> > me why I'm wrong guys. Please.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 12 18:26:32 1998
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To: stealth@starnet.net,
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Subject: Team3S:
Corrections for Turbo Mag's EIP Shootout!
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All,
Just got a chance to get
the new Turbo Magazine (January 1999) which
featured the EIP Tuning and Toyo
Tires East Coast Import Shootout.
After reading, I think they mistakenly
though I had Adam Weltz's car when they
referenced it, and this is what the
"Winners Circle" should have read:
HH - Diamond Star
RWD/AWD
Winner.......Randall Mahaffey '94 Stealth Twin
Turbo 11.917 117.62
R/U............Adam
Weltz '96 3000GT
VR4
12.387 114.05
Instead they put
this..
Winner.......Randall Marabby '96
Mitsubishi 11.917 117.62
R/U............Adam
Weltz '92
Eagle 12.387
114.05
LOL, I have no idea how they messed everything up so bad..
Would have been
neat for everyone who reads Turbo Magazine too see two
Stealth/VR4's ruled the
AWD Quick 8 class..
At least they included an
AWESOME pic of Adam launching the heck out of his
'96 3000GT VR4.. Great pic
Adam!
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey (Randall Michael Mahaffey - for those
who wonder where the
Randall came from:)
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6
Best mph: 121.58
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 12 19:10:34 1998
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Date: Sat, 12
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From: Nathan Crisman
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Subject: Team3S: messed up
engine
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OK.guys,
My TT stealth has a very bad knocking
sound. I need to know if there
are roller bearings on the wrist
pins. Is it possible to pull the oil
pan out from the bottom? IF
that's possible, can you get the rods and
pistons out without removing the
crank? Are shortblocks or whole motors
available? Price?
Nathan
Crisman
92 Stealth TT
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
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From: "Joseph Kaczmarski" <jokacz@adelphia.net>
To:
<Stealth-3000GT-digest@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: EGR Trivia
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 23:10:53 -0500
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Anyone ever notice all the black stuff on the inside
of
their exhaust tips? Seems to me thats the same junk
the EGR valve is
injecting into the plenum. Reason enough
to block the EGR along with the
crankcase breather line.
The feds may want our cars to eat their own waste
products,
but I for one won't let mine.
Joe Kaczmarski
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 12 21:39:18 1998
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: messed up
engine
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:38:54 -0700
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> -----Original Message-----
>
OK.guys,
> My TT stealth has a very bad knocking sound. I need to
know if there
> are roller bearings on the wrist pins.
No, the
wrist pins are press fit plain bearings.
> Is it possible to pull the
oil pan out from the bottom?
Yes.
> IF that's possible, can you
get the rods and
> pistons out without removing the crank?
Possible
but likely not the right way to do it. Once you're there why not
do it
right...
> Are shortblocks or whole motors available?
Probably
both, but definitely short blocks.
> Price?
$2600 give or
take. A rebuild will likely yield better results unless the
crank is
shot.
> Nathan Crisman
> 92 Stealth
TT
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
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Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 10:12:08
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Corrections for Turbo
Mag's EIP Shootout!
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> Winner.......Randall Mahaffey '94 Stealth Twin
Turbo 11.917 117.62
> R/U............Adam
Weltz '96 3000GT
VR4
12.387 114.05
This sounds much better and it shows that ou
cars can be fast :)
Unfortunately the turbo mag consists of many, many
errors. I just recall the AFC
/ ITC setup a few months back as they messed up
a picture of the connections. If
someone would install the parts like this
the engine would never run :) Also the
article on Chris Doturs "Wild
Blue" was not that good as Chris said that they
cut and changed the
article in a bad way :(
But is there any better mag around
???
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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> Is it possible to pull the oil pan out from the
bottom?
Yes, you have to put out the small transaxle connection (if its
the right word)
and the pan can the be removed.
> IF that's
possible, can you get the rods and pistons out without removing
> the
crank?
Yes, at least for the pistons. My mechanic just did this job on my
car and
replaced the 6 pistons with the engine in the bay. Not really a big
deal.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Brad Bedell" <bbedell@texas.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Corrections for
Turbo Mag's EIP Shootout!
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 12:10:37
-0600
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I doubt that there is any better magazine around.
July 97 Sport Compact car
butchered the original article on my MR2.
Several things were printed
inaccurate. These things were accurate when
submitted.
I feel some of the editors in these magazines have trouble
comprehending
what they are reading. Maybe they just don't care about
accuracy and feel
they have to put free plugs about their
venders.
> Brad
>
> Check out my home
page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail:
bbedell@texas.net ICQ# 3612682
-----Original
Message-----
From:
owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]
On Behalf Of R.G.
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 1998 4:12 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Corrections for Turbo
Mag's EIP Shootout!
> Winner.......Randall Mahaffey '94 Stealth
Twin Turbo 11.917 117.62
>
R/U............Adam Weltz '96
3000GT VR4
12.387
114.05
This sounds much better and it shows that ou cars can be
fast :)
Unfortunately the turbo mag consists of many, many errors. I just
recall the
AFC
/ ITC setup a few months back as they messed up a picture
of the
connections. If
someone would install the parts like this the
engine would never run :) Also
the
article on Chris Doturs "Wild
Blue" was not that good as Chris said that
they
cut and changed the
article in a bad way :(
But is there any better mag around
???
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:36:35 -0500
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From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Team3S: X case
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What color fluid is in the transfer case? I'm
leaking what looks to be oil
but it seems to be coming from the trasfer
case. Does this sound right?
It just started today. The trasfer
case is pretty new (one year/25k
miles). Any help would be
great.
Thanks,
Brian Danley
93 vr-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 13 19:04:57 1998
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Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:04:11
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From: Jeff Crabtree <wjcrabtree@sprintmail.com>
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Subject: Team3S: New
outlet?
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--------------A5753571A67466A9DB8810FC
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Hey guys
and girls,
This might be old news but I found this while searching for
white guage
faces for my Jeep.
Autobahn International Motorsports -
World's Finest Performance Parts
&
Accessories
(www.autobahnint.com)
They've got alot of
stuff...probably alot of it is the same as GT Alley
and Accelerated
Accessories but it's worth a look.
I found colored guage faces for 3/S
while there made by a company called
"NR AUTO":
Here's that
link NR Coloured Guage Faces
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91
Stealth R/T Turbo
'93 Jeep YJ Wrangler
Sport
St. Louis,
MO
--------------A5753571A67466A9DB8810FC
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charset=us-ascii
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<HTML>
Hey
guys and girls,
<P>This might be old news but I found this while
searching for white guage
faces for my Jeep.
<BR> <A
HREF="http://www.autobahnint.com/">Autobahn
International
Motorsports - World's Finest Performance Parts &
Accessories</A>
<BR>(www.autobahnint.com)
<P>They've
got alot of stuff...probably alot of it is the same as GT Alley
and
Accelerated Accessories but it's worth a look.
<P>I found colored
guage faces for 3/S while there made by a company called
"NR
AUTO":
<P>Here's that link <A
HREF="http://www.autobahnint.com/AIM_store/Html/NR_Auto/NR_Auto_HTML/NR_Gauge_Faces_Mitsubishi.htm">NR
Coloured
Guage Faces</A>
<P>--
<BR>-Jeff
Crabtree
<BR> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo
<BR> '93 Jeep
YJ Wrangler
Sport
<BR>
St. Louis,
MO
<BR> </HTML>
--------------A5753571A67466A9DB8810FC--
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 06:56:31 1998
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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:56:27 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis
Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: "stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Another EGR
Question
In-Reply-To: <3673D76B.9B8FFC15@sprintmail.com>
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Hi all,
I've been skimming through the recent
discussion on EGR, and may regret
not paying closer attention now...
I have a vehicle (non-Stealth, but hopefully you'll forgive me) which
on
Friday exhibited some strange behavior. After running smoothly for
the
first week of ownership, it suddenly began running very roughly. It
got
steadily worse over about 10 minutes, until it finally died - in
the
middle of an intersection, of course. It started right up, and
continued
running roughly for a couple blocks, to where I could get it off
the road.
The gas gauge showed 3/4 full, so *that* wasn't it. I
restarted it, still
running roughly, but now accompanied by a STRONG sulfur
smell. Also, the
power-assist on the brakes was non-functional. I
decided to have my dad
follow me to the dealership (he was driving my
Stealth, see how it all
comes together?), to have them take a look at it. On
the way there (about
a 10 minute drive), the roughness went away and the
sulfur smell
dissipated. By the time I got there, the engine had
smoothed out enough
to "make a liar of me" when I tried to show
them what was happening.
Also, the power-assist on the brakes came back
within a couple minutes of
pulling away.
Their first guess as to the
problem was a chunk of carbon deposits had
broken loose and temporarily
blocked the EGR valve. This lead to
incomplete combustion, the rough
idle, etc. They've kept it over the
weekend, and will put it on the
computer this AM and see if any error
codes show up.
So here are my
questions:
1) Is their explanation a reasonable possibility?
2) What
possible linkage could there be to my braking system? Would poor
or
erratic RPMs affect the brake fluid pumping mechanism?
The vehicle is a
94 GMC Jimmy, if that makes any difference.
Thanks for your help, and for
your indulgence.
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
There are no
*stupid* people in this world, only *ignorant* ones.
Ignorance is a good
problem, because the application of accurate
information can help people get
over it.
However, ignorance combined with arrogance closely resembles
stupidity.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 07:51:49 1998
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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:49:07
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: New
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I also found them a while ago but their prices are
somewhat hight. Definitely a
good source for german cars
:)
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 08:27:50 1998
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Date:
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From: Rich
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Another EGR
Question
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Dennis:
Dennis Moore
wrote:
<snip>
> So here are my questions:
> 1) Is
their explanation a reasonable possibility?
The explanation you got
*sounds* reasonable to me, but I'll let the more
technically proficient here
answer this one.
> 2) What possible linkage could there be to my
braking
> system? Would poor or erratic RPMs affect the
brake
> fluid pumping mechanism?
This one I *can* answer. The
answer is yes. Power assist or power
brakes work off of vacuum from
your manifold. If the car is
idling/running poorly, the loss of proper
vacuum from your manifold will
effect the performance of the power assist
brakes.
> The vehicle is a 94 GMC Jimmy, if that makes any
difference.
Well, it's a GM product .... <whole-body-shudder> ....
so this may
effect how willing some folks are to even bother helping to
diagnose the
problem. :-)
Rich
Emerald Green 94
R/T
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 12:42:11 1998
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Corrections for
Turbo Mag's EIP Shootout!
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:42:05
-0500
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In the magazine trade, advertising dollars pay the
bills. Readers are
important because readership determines advertising rates,
but subscription
income is minimal. In other words, business-savvy editors
may be wise to
keep their advertisers happy even at the expense of pissed-off
individual
readers whose cars they describe inaccurately.
Question to
ponder: How much money does BMW give Car & Driver to *always*
rate BMWs
as the top car in every class they enter? It's almost humorous the
way
C&D will rig their point results so the BMW will always win, often
by
merely a single point (on a scale of 100).
-Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell
I
feel some of the editors in these magazines have trouble comprehending
what
they are reading. Maybe they just don't care about accuracy and
feel
they have to put free plugs about their venders.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 13:42:40 1998
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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:42:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis
Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Corrections for
Turbo Mag's EIP Shootout!
In-Reply-To:
<F2D5EF6EF827D211A31900600837752D1A012B@exch-ct1.strategy.com>
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Ouch. That's a pretty damning indictment. Has
anyone ever done any
serious research to determine whether this is an
accurate assumption or
not? I can see the possibility of some editors
being tempted to do this,
but are the advertisers so disingenuous that they
would would want to
continue doing business with a magazine which pulled
these kinds of
stunts? After all, "If they massage my numbers,
what will happen to my
products' ratings when I'm no longer the biggest
account?"
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
On Mon, 14 Dec
1998, Fein, Edward wrote:
>
> In the magazine trade, advertising
dollars pay the bills. Readers are
> important because readership
determines advertising rates, but subscription
> income is minimal. In
other words, business-savvy editors may be wise to
> keep their
advertisers happy even at the expense of pissed-off individual
> readers
whose cars they describe inaccurately.
[snip]
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 14:05:45 1998
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From:
"Fein, Edward" <fein@strategy.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Corrections for
Turbo Mag's EIP Shootout!
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:05:41
-0500
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It's common proactice in most magazine trades, sadly
enough. For example,
video game magazines always rate their heavy
advertisers' games higher.
I'm sure the big aftermarket companies enjoy
similar "agreements" with
Turbo, Sport Compact Car, and the other
auto mags. I mean, certain prominent
aftermarket companies are notorious for
having products that are impossible
to tune, or flimsy and easily breakable,
or just generally suck. But these
companies advertise heavily in said
magazines, and by strange happenstance,
those magazines somehow overlook the
shortcomings of the products and give
them rave reviews.
You don't
really think that's all coincidence, do you?
So if Turbo does a writeup
on some reader's hot ride, and 'accidentally'
mislabels their boost
controller as being from one of their prominent
advertisers... well, being
the cynical guy that I am, I wouldn't be so sure
that it was really
accidental.
-Ed
-----Original
Message-----
From: Dennis Moore
Ouch. That's a pretty damning
indictment. Has anyone ever done any
serious research to determine
whether this is an accurate assumption or
not? I can see the
possibility of some editors being tempted to do this,
but are the advertisers
so disingenuous that they would would want to
continue doing business with a
magazine which pulled these kinds of
stunts? After all, "If they
massage my numbers, what will happen to my
products' ratings when I'm no
longer the biggest account?"
Dennis Moore
stealth@kiva.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 14:45:25 1998
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Corrections for
Turbo Mag's EIP Shootout!
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:44:21
-0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Fein,
Edward <fein@strategy.com>
|In the magazine trade, advertising dollars
pay the bills. Readers are
|important because readership determines
advertising rates, but subscription
|income is minimal. In other words,
business-savvy editors may be wise to
|keep their advertisers happy even at
the expense of pissed-off individual
|readers whose cars they describe
inaccurately.
-----------snip---------
Absolutely true, but you must
also include two other factors when evaluating
the written word:
Ignorance and ineptitude. Even ad-free Consumer Reports
regularly gives
high ratings to cars that can't go around a corner, have
lousy service
records, and/or squeak unmercifully from the day they leave
the
showroom. There are no advertising dollars to explain the mistakes,
but
lazy writers will often plagiarize what others have written because
they
didn't have the time to check out the product themselves, or they're
not
educated enough to reach a valid conclusion. CR has done everything
from
saying that foul plastic diet sodas taste as good as the real
sugared
product, claimed oleo as good as butter, Kraft mayo as good as
Hellmann's
(Best Foods) and no-name potato chips as good as Wise... In
the technical
areas they're even worse, with cars and electronics leading the
error
factory line-- A 'beemer' as good as a Porsche...? A Radio
Shack speaker
as good as a JBL...? A Minolta as good as a
Nikon...? It's never happened,
and probably never will...
Anyone
with taste buds, ears, eyes, or a BRAIN will usually reach a
different
conclusion than some writers in even the best magazines. You have
to do
your own research and forget what 'they' say, and just look at the
pretty
pictures in the mags. I bought a Stealth because of what I saw
and
felt, but I never would have if I trusted only what I read. And
it's the
best car I've ever owned. I'm going to finish this sandwich
(Progresso Tuna
and Hellmann's mayonnaise, with a Coke), then grab my Nikon,
and go for a
drive in my Stealth...
Forrest
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 14 15:36:18 1998
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Subject: Team3S: Car and Driver
Sucks
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<003101be27b3$87b703a0$7df186cd@BobForrest>
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Bob Forrest wrote:
> From: Fein, Edward
>
|In magazine trade advertising dollars pay bills. business-savvy editors may be
wise to
> |keep advertisers happy at expense of pissed-off
individual
> |readers whose cars they describe inaccurately.
>
Absolutely true, but you must also include two other factors when
evaluating
> the written word: Ignorance and ineptitude.
I bought a Stealth because of what I saw and
> felt, but I never would
have if I trusted only what I read. And it's the
> best car I've
ever owned. I'm going to finish this sandwich (Progresso Tuna
> and
Hellmann's mayonnaise, with a Coke), then grab my Nikon, and go for a
>
drive in my Stealth...
> Forrest
Forrest, you Live the Life,
man! Excellence.
There is a definite "party line" in each
magazine. With only a few
writers, who own and like certain cars just
as we all do, the personal
biases inevitably color the reviews.
Sometimes it is entertaining,
sometimes maddening and disappointing.
Currently, it is clear that BMW
is the darling favorite of Car and Driver
writers. BMWs are excellent
cars, but when they come out with an M3 as
"Best Handling Car in the
World" at expense of superior sports cars
such as Ferrari 355, new
Vette, Lotus, etc when doing many objective tests
but NEGLECTING TO GIVE
ROADCOURSE LAPTIMES because BMW came in LAST to
EVERYTHING...printing
THAT would make their conclusion ridiculous.
(Also Viper but that is so
raw they have drummed the idea of it being great
handling right out of
us, as the "delicate genius" style of
handling is what is in vogue with
Car & Driver et al).
Phaaah to
their subjective biases. Many times the car with great stats,
great
looks, great "cool factor", great upgradability loses to
some
losermobile because of the cupholders, floormats, seat bolsters,
view
out the back window, 'lack of room for my tallest hat' and bullpoop
like
that. Our cars are too HEAVY--wwwaaaAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHhhhhh.
They go fast
around corners without DRAMA (can you say NSX? but for that car
boring
handling is ok). They are interesting to look at not
upright
sedan-boring. They are Japanese, not Italian or German.
Mitsubishis
don't have a following at the local roadcourse Drivers
Schools/race
events like BMW and Porsche, and as auto rag writers, we want to
stay
popular with THAT crowd, right? They are AFFORDABLE USED, and
amazingly
upgradable for cheap, not just by spending $10,000+ to get a low
13
second car like with some BMW M3...MAYbe even high 12's,
oooohhh...
[picture Austin Powers' Dr. Evil with pinkie to mouth]
Oh well. Let us continue to own our cars, and crush our enemies
with
ruthless abandon. The good part is the magazine drivel keeps all
the
rubes smirking at us...right up until they get repeatedly ground
into
the dirt by our blatant superiority on-track and on-street...sun,
rain,
dirt, snow, ice. Bring on more "superior
victims", I am hungry!
Jack Tertadian
Death to the
Infidels! The streets will continue to run red with the
blood of the
Unbelievers! ;)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 15 05:40:49 1998
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Jack,
Agreed. However, if you
are referring to the Sept. '97
C&D Article "Best-Handling Car for
More Than $30,000",
they did indeed include a Nelson Ledges raceway
lap
time on page 81. As you predicted the M3 fared poorly.
Here are the times:
Viper...................1:17.3
Ferrari
F355.........1:18.3
Corvette C5..........1:19.9
Supra
TT..............1:20.1
Carrera S.............1:21.3
BMW
M3.............1:21.6
Acura
NSX-T........1:22.0
Boxster...............1:23.5
Honda
Prelude.....1:25.0(Winner of the under $30,000 series).
I am not a road racer but 4.3 seconds (the margin of
victory
for the Viper over the M3) appears to be several lifetimes in
this
type of event. Best handling car in the world?Yeah,right.
Just
so this has some 3S content... In a test between the M3,
Corvette, Supra, and
3000GT a few months earlier, this same
magazine gave the M3 a higher score
for 'Styling' than it gave
the Mitsu.Unbelievable. Oh well, enough ranting. I
must get
some perverse pleasure from reading these rags since I keep
the
subscriptions
going.
Wayne 3SI
#87
'91 Stealth TT (Best handling car
I've
owned)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 15 07:04:59 1998
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Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998
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From: Yoss <yoss@aracnet.com>
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stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Car and Driver
Sucks
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On Dec 15, TTurboAWD@aol.com
said:
> Jack,
[snip]
> Just
so this has some 3S content... In a test between the M3,
> Corvette,
Supra, and 3000GT a few months earlier, this same
> magazine gave the M3 a
higher score for 'Styling' than it gave
> the
Mitsu.Unbelievable.
This is even after the comment they made that the
3000GT attracted the most
looks.
Or just maybe that the M3 would
indeed look more 'Stylish' if you were to look
at these cars with your head
up your ass...But, I ain't gonna try it :-)
-sankar
--
*******************************************************************************
You
never assume anything where Lwaxana Troi is concerned. Betazoid
women
are full of surprises.
-- Lwaxana Troi, "Man
Hunt", stardate
42859.2
*******************************************************************************
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 10:43:30 1998
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From: "Zentelis none"
<zentelis@hotmail.com>
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Subject:
Team3S: none
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What's the best place/way to find a '94 R/T TT for sale?
I've been
searching all over the net and the only one I found for sale was
on
Rhode Island and it's not even a TT. It's really quite frustrating ;)
Anybody have any suggestions? After all, I'd like to join in on some of
the mailing list conversations, not just read everything (including 1/4
mile times) thinking "I really wish I had a stealth right now".
Thank ya
:)
oh, if it's relevant, I won't be buying one this week or
anything, I
just want a place to start looking so i can buy one in the next
few
months.
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 16 10:48:20 1998
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Date:
Wed, 16 Dec 1998 10:48:10 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Division
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Zentelis none wrote:
>
> What's the best
place/way to find a '94 R/T TT for sale? I've been
> searching all over
the net and the only one I found for sale was on
> Rhode Island and it's
not even a TT. It's really quite frustrating ;)
> Anybody have any
suggestions? After all, I'd like to join in on some of
> the mailing list
conversations, not just read everything (including 1/4
> mile times)
thinking "I really wish I had a stealth right now". Thank ya
>
:)
> oh, if it's relevant, I won't be buying one this week or anything,
I
> just want a place to start looking so i can buy one in the next
few
> months.
Check out http://www.classifieds2000.com. They
usually list over 40
VR4's nationwide at any given time.
--
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 11:13:56 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: used TT
Date:
Wed, 16 Dec 1998 11:14:31 -0800
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Zentelis...
I found mine through the Auto Trader
website. I was looking for a specific
year, specific color, low miles and, of
course, the lowest possible price.
That was eighteen months ago and I had
spent four months looking locally.
Finally used the web and it took me a
couple months to find one. Funny you
should mention Rhode Island, that's
where mine finally showed up. Flew out
to inspect it, make a deal. Took six
weeks to get it shipped out here.
Probably couldn't have found one farther
away, but it was worth the search.
Their site
is:
http://www.traderonline.com/auto/index.shtml
Good
luck!!!
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends
ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
-----Original Message-----
From: Zentelis none
[mailto:zentelis@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 10:43
AM
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S:
none
What's the best place/way to find a '94 R/T TT for sale? I've
been
searching all over the net and the only one I found for sale was on
Rhode Island and it's not even a TT. It's really quite frustrating ;)
Anybody have any suggestions? After all, I'd like to join in on some of
the mailing list conversations, not just read everything (including 1/4
mile times) thinking "I really wish I had a stealth right now".
Thank ya
:)
oh, if it's relevant, I won't be buying one this week or
anything, I
just want a place to start looking so i can buy one in the next
few
months.
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 11:22:10 1998
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: GT Alley removed from
list...
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 11:21:49 -0800
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Due to his allegedly improper (and probably illegal)
business practices with
at least two of our members, The GT Alley AKA GTAlley
AKA Brian Fuentes AKA
Charlie Hupp Race Cars AKA Charlie Hupp AKA Portmasters
is hereby removed
from the Team3S list, and is hereby permanently banned,
effective
immediately.
Bob Forrest
Admin,
Team3S
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 11:39:55 1998
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Bob;
I'm glad you're right on top of this shit. At
the outset you indicated that rules were
rules, and it's nice to see them
enforced.
Darc
Bob Forrest wrote:
> Due to his allegedly
improper (and probably illegal) business practices with
> at least two of
our members, The GT Alley AKA GTAlley AKA Brian Fuentes AKA
> Charlie Hupp
Race Cars AKA Charlie Hupp AKA Portmasters is hereby removed
> from the
Team3S list, and is hereby permanently banned, effective
>
immediately.
>
> Bob Forrest
> Admin, Team3S
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GT Alley removed from
list...
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
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Hmm... not I like to nose around but what did he (Brian)
do?? I'm
suppose to hook up with him after New years and have him work
on my
car. Can some please advise?
=(
George
---Bob Forrest <bf@bobforrest.com>
wrote:
>
> Due to his allegedly improper (and probably illegal)
business
practices with
> at least two of our members, The GT Alley AKA
GTAlley AKA Brian
Fuentes AKA
> Charlie Hupp Race Cars AKA Charlie Hupp
AKA Portmasters is hereby
removed
> from the Team3S list, and is hereby
permanently banned, effective
> immediately.
>
> Bob
Forrest
> Admin, Team3S
>
>
>
>
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU
YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
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From: "Todd D
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GT Alley removed
from list...
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:30:33 -0600
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Last time I checked embezzlement was indeed still a
crime.
-
tds
------------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Forrest
<bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday,
December 16, 1998 1:51 PM
Subject: Team3S: GT Alley
removed from list...
=20
=20
Due to his allegedly improper (and probably illegal)
business =
practices with
at least two of our members,
The GT Alley AKA GTAlley AKA Brian =
Fuentes AKA
Charlie Hupp Race Cars AKA Charlie Hupp AKA Portmasters is hereby
=
removed
from the Team3S list, and is hereby
permanently banned, effective
immediately.
=20
Bob Forrest
Admin,
Team3S
=20
=20
------=_NextPart_000_027F_01BE2911.675D4060
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HTML//EN">
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<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Last
time I checked embezzlement was =
indeed=20
still a
crime.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>- tds</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>----------------------------------------------------------------=
--</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:
#000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:
=
5px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2><B>-----Original
=
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Bob Forrest <<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:bf@bobforrest.com">bf@bobforrest.com</A>><BR><B>To:
=
</B><A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>=20
<<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Wednesday, December 16, 1998 1:51 PM<BR><B>Subject:
</B>Team3S: =
GT Alley=20
removed from
list...<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>Due to his allegedly
=
improper (and=20
probably illegal) business practices
with<BR>at least two of our =
members,=20
The GT
Alley AKA GTAlley AKA Brian Fuentes AKA<BR>Charlie Hupp Race =
Cars
AKA=20
Charlie Hupp AKA Portmasters is hereby
removed<BR>from the Team3S =
list, and=20
is
hereby permanently banned,
effective<BR>immediately.<BR><BR>Bob=20
Forrest<BR>Admin,
Team3S<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_027F_01BE2911.675D4060--
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
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From: "Todd D
Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: GT Alley removed
from list...
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:40:04 -0600
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George,
Actually this is your lucky day!
Now
you won't be swindled like myself
and others have. I will forward
emails I have
sent out to many members today advising them of the
recent
criminal offenses that have been perpetrated
by Brian and the GT
Alley.
-
Todd
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: George Kuo
<amkreadgto@yahoo.com>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Wednesday,
December 16, 1998 4:22 PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: GT Alley
removed from list...
=20
=20
Hmm... not I like to nose around but what did he
(Brian) do?? I'm
suppose to hook up with him after
New years and have him work on my
car. Can some
please advise? =3D(
=20
George
=20
=20
=20
=20
---Bob Forrest
<bf@bobforrest.com> wrote:
>
> Due to his allegedly improper (and probably
illegal) business
practices with
> at least two of our members, The GT Alley AKA GTAlley AKA
Brian
Fuentes AKA
> Charlie Hupp
Race Cars AKA Charlie Hupp AKA Portmasters is hereby
removed
> from the Team3S list, and is hereby
permanently banned, effective
>
immediately.
>=20
> Bob
Forrest
> Admin, Team3S
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
=20
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at
http://mail.yahoo.com
=20
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
=
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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HTML//EN">
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<HEAD>
<META
content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1
=
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML
4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY
bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000
size=3D2>George,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
color=3D#000000
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>Actually this is your lucky
day!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Now you won't
be swindled like myself</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>and others have. I will forward emails
I=20
have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>sent
out to many members today advising them
of=20
the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>recent
criminal offenses that have
been=20
perpetrated</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>by Brian and the GT
Alley.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2>- Todd</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT
size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>----------------------------------------------------------------=
-------</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT:
#000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT:
=
5px">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial
size=3D2><B>-----Original
=
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>George Kuo <<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:amkreadgto@yahoo.com">amkreadgto@yahoo.com</A>><BR><B>T=
o:=20
</B><A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>=20
<<A=20
=
href=3D"mailto:stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com">stealth-3000gt@list.sirius=
.com</A>><BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Wednesday, December 16, 1998 4:22 PM<BR><B>Subject:
</B>Re: =
Team3S: GT=20
Alley removed from
list...<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>Hmm... not I like to
=
nose=20
around but what did he (Brian) do??
I'm<BR>suppose to hook up =
with him=20
after New
years and have him work on my<BR>car. Can some
=
please=20
advise?
=3D(<BR><BR>George<BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>---Bob
Forrest <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:bf@bobforrest.com">bf@bobforrest.com</A>>=20
wrote:<BR>><BR>> Due to his allegedly improper (and
probably =
illegal)=20
business<BR>practices
with<BR>> at least two of our members, The =
GT
Alley=20
AKA GTAlley AKA Brian<BR>Fuentes
AKA<BR>> Charlie Hupp Race Cars =
AKA=20
Charlie Hupp AKA Portmasters is hereby<BR>removed<BR>> from
the =
Team3S=20
list, and is hereby permanently banned,
effective<BR>>=20
immediately.<BR>> <BR>> Bob Forrest<BR>>
Admin, =
Team3S<BR>>=20
<BR>>
<BR>> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> For
=
subscribe/unsubscribe info,=20
our web page
is<BR><A=20
=
href=3D"http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm">http://www.bobforrest.com/T=
eam3S.htm</A><BR>>=20
=
<BR><BR>_________________________________________________________<BR>DO
=
YOU=20
YAHOO!?<BR>Get your free @yahoo.com
address at <A=20
href=3D"http://mail.yahoo.com">http://mail.yahoo.com</A><BR><BR>For=20
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is <A=20
=
href=3D"http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm">http://www.bobforrest.com/T=
eam3S.htm</A><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0290_01BE2912.BB6A2B40--
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 15:30:10 1998
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I'm a little slow today, so what did Brian actually
do?
Adam W
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 18:14:34 1998
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From: "Brad Bedell"
<bbedell@texas.net>
To: <stealth@starnet.net>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Possible new
shop
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:06:00 -0600
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Hey everyone,
I am in the process of building a
business plan to open a shop here locally
in Austin.
I would very much
appreciate if you would take a few moments and answer a
few of the following
questions.
What forms of advertising gets your attention.
Radio, magazine, track
events, word of mouth etc...
What makes you a
new customer? What would it take to earn your business?
What would it
take to keep your business?
What makes a good shop? (Presentation of the
shop, showroom etc.)
Anything else that I have not thought of that may be
beneficial to a
successful shop.
I wish to open and operate a shop
that caters to Mitsubishi and Toyota,
including doing maintenance work and
possibly repair work better than a
dealership.
Thanks for any help
that can be provided.
> Brad
>
> Check out my home
page: http://lonestar.texas.net/~bbedell
> E-Mail:
bbedell@texas.net ICQ# 3612682
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
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From
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Brad;
Good old fashioned word of mouth will do you
better than anything else. It's what can
make or break a person, and
where the service is impecable: professional, honest, and
first class, it
won't be long before you wonder if you have enough time in life to
handle the
requests for your expertise...which may mean expansion, with the
then
unenviable task of having your reputation then umberella over
(hopefully) the same type
of characteristics in employees that you
hire. As I mentioned to Errin in Seattle
recently...a brochure under
the wiper of every 3S and radical Toyota that you see, is
clearly another way
to target your clients without a lot of cash laid out. Other means
of
advertising are of course effective as well, but for me, I like down to earth
people,
and shy away from the glitter.
Best of luck (Good on ya)
whatever way you go
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Wed, 16
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OK,
I probably shouldn't publicly post this(it's off topic). However,
considering what
is going down with GT Alley I think it's ironic that Brad
has asked this question now,
and important that we should share some ideas
publicly about what a shop should be like.
Add to it if ya
want.
Brad Bedell wrote:
> What forms of advertising gets your
attention. Radio, magazine, track
> events, word of mouth
etc...
You are already using the most powerful marketing tool in
existence. I would say dump
ALOT of your Ad $$ into designing a VERY
good website. That way any OTHER advertising
you do can direct people
to your web address for detailed info. AND LINK, LINK,
LINK!!!
> What makes you a new customer? What would it
take to earn your business?
> What would it take to keep your
business?
Credentials, experience, word of mouth, and honesty. (see
diatribe at the end)
#1) Don't forget, the customer is always
right.
#2) If the customer is wrong, see#1
What makes a good
shop? (Presentation of the shop, showroom etc.)
Every disorganized dirty
shop I've ever been in, save one, has screwed up my car. Keep
it
organized and crisp.
> Anything else that I have not thought of
that may be beneficial to a
> successful shop.
Among other things,
price is probably most important. I'll pay a premium only when
it's
worth it. If you want to get paid alot, be worth it, otherwise be
prepared to be the
price leader.
> I wish to open and operate a
shop that caters to Mitsubishi and Toyota,
> including doing maintenance
work and possibly repair work better than a
> dealership.
I'd be
happy to take my car anywhere other than the dealership if I thought I
could
trust anyone else. My biggest problem with auto repair shops is
sloppy work and
dishonesty. The ONLY time I take my car in to a shop is
when it needs something I can't
do. I simply don't trust any idiot
mechanic to work on my car because it is NOT his
car, and I know he(or she)
doesn't care. So he's going to do a slam-bam-thank-ya-ma'am
job because
his lunch break is in ten minutes or because his boss told him to finish
the
job before he leaves and he's supposed to get off at 5.
Make sure
your staff cares about everything they do like they are working on their
own
car. I guarantee you'll win every time.
Oh yeah, and my
Stealth is going to be needing an engine overhaul when I get it back
from the
body shop. If you need some practice, I'd be glad to
volunteer!
--
-Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
'93
Wrangler 4.0L
Sport
St. Louis, MO
--------------737E46AC5442B67B165D1E3A
Content-Type:
text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding:
7bit
<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0
transitional//en">
<html>
OK, I probably shouldn't
publicly post this(it's off topic).
However, considering what is
going down with GT Alley I think it's ironic
that Brad has asked this
question now, and important that we should share
some ideas publicly about
what a shop should be like.
<p>Add to it if ya want.
<p>Brad
Bedell wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><b>What forms of advertising
gets your attention.
Radio, magazine,
track</b>
<br><b>events, word of mouth
etc...</b></blockquote>
You are already using the most powerful
marketing tool in existence.
I would say dump ALOT of your Ad $$
into designing a VERY good website.
That way any OTHER advertising
you do can direct people to your web address
for detailed info. AND
LINK, LINK, LINK!!!
<br>
<blockquote
TYPE=CITE><b>What makes you a new customer? What would
it
take to earn your business?</b>
<br><b>What would it take
to keep your business?</b></blockquote>
Credentials, experience,
word of mouth, and honesty. (see diatribe
at the
end)
<p>#1) Don't forget, the customer is always
right.
<br>#2) If the customer is wrong,
see#1<b></b>
<p><b>What makes a good shop?
(Presentation of the shop, showroom
etc.)</b><b></b>
<p>Every disorganized dirty shop
I've ever been in, save one, has screwed
up my car. Keep it
organized and crisp.
<br>
<blockquote
TYPE=CITE><b>Anything else that I have not thought of that
may be
beneficial to a</b>
<br><b>successful
shop.</b></blockquote>
Among other things, price is probably most
important. I'll pay a
premium only when it's worth it. If
you want to get paid alot, be
worth it, otherwise be prepared to be the price
leader.
<blockquote TYPE=CITE><b>I wish to open and operate a
shop that caters
to Mitsubishi and
Toyota,</b>
<br><b>including doing maintenance work and
possibly repair work better
than
a</b>
<br><b>dealership.</b></blockquote>
I'd
be happy to take my car anywhere other than the dealership if I thought
I
could trust anyone else. My biggest problem with auto repair
shops
is sloppy work and dishonesty. The ONLY time I take my car in
to
a shop is when it needs something I can't do. I simply don't
trust
any idiot mechanic to work on my car because it is NOT his car, and I
know
he(or she) doesn't care. So he's going to do a
slam-bam-thank-ya-ma'am
job because his lunch break is in ten minutes or
because his boss told
him to finish the job before he leaves and he's
supposed to get off at
5.
<p>Make sure your staff cares about
everything they do like they are working
on their own car. I
guarantee you'll win every time.
<p>Oh yeah, and my Stealth is going to
be needing an engine overhaul when
I get it back from the body
shop. If you need some practice, I'd
be glad to
volunteer!
<p>--
<br>-Jeff
Crabtree
<br> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
<br>
'93 Wrangler
4.0L
Sport
<br>
St.
Louis,
MO
<br> </html>
--------------737E46AC5442B67B165D1E3A--
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subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 16 23:53:32 1998
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From: "Bob
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Possible new
shop
Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:51:23 -0800
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-----Original Message-----From: Brad Bedell
<bbedell@texas.net>
|What forms of advertising gets your
attention. Radio, magazine, track
|events, word of mouth
etc...
Maintenance and repair shops usually do local business, so mass
media like
radio and mags are probably economically inefficient; word of
mouth and
flyers and newspapers would most likely make me take note.
And don't
forget, lots of techies buy complex, techie cars :-) , so put up a
slick,
informative website and a matching poster with your
URL...
|What makes you a new customer?
Shoddy workmanship or
impersonal service from the shop I'm using gets
me
looking...
|What would it take to earn your
business?
The promise of a more attentive and more knowledgeable service
staff, who
does WHAT they say they will WHEN they say they will, and do it
better than
the competition.
|What would it take to keep your
business?
Living up to the promise... Satisfied customers come
back.
|What makes a good shop? (Presentation of the shop, showroom
etc.)
The best shops I've ever used were usually a disorganized hole in
the wall
with one genius curmudgeon running the show and underpaid
apprentices
following the master's every word.
I like shops that are
greasy with the dirt of hard work. Although a nice
yuppie coffee
machine in the corner loaded with fresh ground is always a
nice
touch.
|Anything else that I have not thought of that may be
beneficial to a
|successful shop.
Again, it's a personal preference,
but I like shops that only use the best
products, and I don't mind paying
extra for them; real guarantees to stand
behind work done is another big
draw; and having booklets or even a few
sheets stapled together explaining
the procedures give me confidence that
they WANT me to be informed so I can
work with them.
|I wish to open and operate a shop that caters to
Mitsubishi and Toyota,
|including doing maintenance work and possibly repair
work better than a
|dealership.
Better than a dealership? That
shouldn't be too tough... :-) Best of
luck,
Brad...
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible new
shop
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 07:44:29 -0500
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Not much I could add to Jeff, Bob and Darc's response,
Brad. I think you're
going about
it the right way by doing some
market research before jumping in with both
feet. Judging
from some
of the pictures I've seen of your work, customers will be driving
away
satisfied. I agree with Jeff about a shop's
appearance. A neat,
organized and clean shop
is important for a number of reasons.
Some
business points, though:
* The customer is always right. This
was
already said but is worth repeating.
* Undercommit but then
overdeliver. Be
prepared to work 80 hours per week.
Take
Beth on a vacation before you start because
it might be
a few years before you can do it
again.
* Advertising, unless
you do it yourself, can
be expensive. As your business
grows, so
will your advertising budget. Keep it
proportional.
* When you get to the point where you think
you
need to hire help, postpone the decision
for a few more months.
If the work gets
thin, you won't be able to afford paying an
employee for sitting around.
* When the day comes when you need to
hire
help, find someone who is better than you
are and be
prepared to pay for it.
* Learn a candidate's work ethic before
you
extend a job offer. Check references and
backgrounds thorougly.
* Don't neglect to pay the IRS every
month,
for they can be worse than loan sharks.
Good luck if you
decide to go ahead with it!
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Team3S: Engine rebuild
question
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I'm ordering new pistons and I'd like to confirm my
choices.
I'll be enlarging the displacement to 3.2L.
If I'm correct the
size of the piston should be 92mm
I'm also going to bring down the
compression to 8 to 1 in order to run
more boost.
Any corrective criticism
or suggestions much appreciated.
Thanks
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Engine rebuild
question
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 07:41:04 -0700
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The stock bore is 91.1mm for all years. 93 mm will
get you to 3.1L. You'd
need to go to 94.9mm to get 3.2L which I am not
sure is possible -- you'd
have to get in there and do some measuring.
Don't forget to take the
cylinder head design into consideration.
The
stock compression ratio should already be 8:1. Going much lower
will
likely not get you much if anything. I actually suspect it would
be worse.
You'd have to run some calculations to get an idea if lowering CR
below 8:1
is the right thing to do. Most builders will say it is
not.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> I'm ordering new pistons and I'd like to confirm my
choices.
> I'll be enlarging the displacement to 3.2L.
> If I'm
correct the size of the piston should be 92mm
> I'm also going to bring
down the compression to 8 to 1 in order to run
> more boost.
> Any
corrective criticism or suggestions much appreciated.
> Thanks
>
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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Subject: Team3S: Brians fall from
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In addition to the exposed scandal...
About a week ago
I got a message from Brian. He had a super deal for me (so he
thought) Lucky
for me, I did not think his deal was good enough. His prices
were always
high. Sure as heck, the money would have been down the drain. I
can't imagine
that he did not know then, what we know now. Brian, must have
intended to
just steel the money.
Arty 91 VR-4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Hi group;
Brian's situation is not enviable.
However, a court has not been convened nor a jury
selected...ie he has not
been proven guilty. Everything is alleged at this point, as
the whole
picture is not really known, albeit some large chunks have been revealed.
He
has been cut from the list by admin for protection of members and for the
protection of
the list admin itself. What Brian did or didn't do, and what he
does or doesn't do to
rectify the situation is all a matter of conjector.
Just remember what you print here in
the form of accusations is in
print..it's not alleged or word of mouth. Better to let
this one rest. And,
as a reminder, you do not have to rip list members off to be banned
from this
list...just start flaming away or plain being a jerk, and see how long
it
lasts.
Darc
Aso8@aol.com wrote:
> In addition to
the exposed scandal...
> About a week ago I got a message from Brian. He
had a super deal for me (so he
> thought) Lucky for me, I did not think
his deal was good enough. His prices
> were always high. Sure as heck, the
money would have been down the drain. I
> can't imagine that he did not
know then, what we know now. Brian, must have
> intended to just steel the
money.
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Possible new
shop
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 08:36:12 -0800
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Brad...
I think you've gotten some EXCELLENT advice
from others so I won't repeat it
all, except for these things...
1.
The VERY BEST advertising is word of mouth. Lots of people have cool
web
sites, lots of people invest in radio or TV, but what gets me to use a
shop
(or store) is when someone I trust says "this is the place I go,
and they've
ALWAYS treated me right".
2. No one is perfect,
everyone makes mistakes. When you do, make it up to
your customer. Give them
something extra. There's two things that drives me
away from a shop. a) not
meeting commitments (quality, cost, and/or
schedule) and b) the shop that
does one of the aforementioned things and
then acts as if it's my problem,
not his. The reason I go back to Gateway
Automotive is because John Boline
quotes a price and time for the job and
sticks with it. He always calls me
when the car is done, let's me know if
it's going to take longer (but doesn't
charge beyond his quote). His work
has been excellent and he's willing to
talk about what he's doing. To top it
off, he LOVES our cars. Note: The last
three sentences are an example of #1.
3. There were a couple perspectives
on clean versus messy shops. I'm a tidy
person. If a shop I use appears to be
such a mess that the mechanic can't
find his tools, I wonder how he'll be
able to find all the parts for my car.
In fact, I used a shop like this once
(only once) and they left some parts
off my car. Bad news and it took another
trip to get it right.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't
let friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
-----Original Message-----
From: Brad Bedell
[mailto:bbedell@texas.net]
Sent: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 6:06 PM
To:
stealth@starnet.net; stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Possible
new shop
Hey everyone,
I am in the process of building a business
plan to open a shop here locally
in Austin. I would very much appreciate if
you would take a few moments and
answer a few of the following
questions.
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Thu Dec 17 08:36:41 1998
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From: "Todd D
Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 10:34:36 -0600
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Arty,
Yes he knew last month that
he would be leaving
and the partnership had been dissolved.
He would not
leave peacefully in November
and it was agreed he would leave this
month.
Even after being locked out of Portmaster's
building he was still
going up to the parking lot
in front of the building to accept additional
funds
paid up front for jobs that would never be completed.
My motor sat
in a crate since July and was never touched
even though since Sept I had been
receiving false reports
and updates that machine work, disassembly etc had
been
completed when in fact my motor had never been removed
from the crate
I had custom built to ship the motor to California.
There have been several
crimes committed included fraud and embezzlement.
This is by far the worst I
have ever been burned even if I added
up all the money I've ever lost.
He would say or promise
anything in order to get money paid up front - then
spend the
money for his own personal desires. He should be in
prison
for the crimes he has committed.
-
tds
---------------------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Aso8@aol.com
<Aso8@aol.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: Aso8@aol.com
<Aso8@aol.com>
Date: Thursday, December 17, 1998
10:02 AM
Subject: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
In addition to the exposed
scandal...
About a week ago I got a message from Brian. He
had a super deal for me
(so he
thought) Lucky for me, I
did not think his deal was good enough. His
prices
were
always high. Sure as heck, the money would have been down the
drain.
I
can't imagine that he did not know then, what we know
now. Brian, must
have
intended to just steel the
money.
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 17 08:42:32 1998
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From: "Todd D
Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 10:40:24 -0600
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Would it help if I faxed you copies of
my
payments made in June totaling THOUSANDS
of dollars along with a
current picture and analysis
of my motor with the same 2 toasted
pistons?
The owner of Portmasters has confirmed what
has already been
discussed and MUCH more that
I have not revealed. I have chosen to
speak of only
what has happened to me personally but there is
clear
evidence and documentation of MANY other
criminal offenses that have been
committed.
Perhaps you need to be swindled out of a few
thousand yourself
to understand?
-
tds
-------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
<wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday,
December 17, 1998 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians
fall from grace
Hi
group;
Brian's situation is not enviable. However, a
court has not been
convened nor a jury
selected...ie he
has not been proven guilty. Everything is alleged at
this point,
as
the whole picture is not really known, albeit some
large chunks have
been revealed. He
has been cut
from the list by admin for protection of members and for
the protection
of
the list admin itself. What Brian did or didn't do, and
what he does or
doesn't do to
rectify the situation is
all a matter of conjector. Just remember what
you print here
in
the form of accusations is in print..it's not alleged
or word of mouth.
Better to let
this one rest. And, as
a reminder, you do not have to rip list members
off to be
banned
from this list...just start flaming away or plain
being a jerk, and see
how long it
lasts.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 17 08:58:48 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 08:59:20 -0800
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Todd...
I believe Darcy's point is that we (the
list members) are neither the judge
nor jury and cannot help you recover any
of the damages you may be seeking.
I believe Bob Forrest did the right thing
in removing Brian from the list,
but debating the issues on the list is
unproductive and potentially
damaging.
I am truly sorry that you were
burnt. I suggest any discussions be taken
offline again, as you did with your
first e-mail.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd D Shelton
[mailto:tds@brightok.net]
Sent: Thursday, December 17, 1998 8:40 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
Would it help if I faxed you copies of my
payments made in
June totaling THOUSANDS
of dollars along with a current picture and
analysis
of my motor with the same 2 toasted
pistons?
<snip>
-
tds
-------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
<wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday,
December 17, 1998 10:20 AM
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians
fall from grace
Hi
group;
Brian's situation is not enviable. However, a
court has not been
convened nor a jury
selected...ie he
has not been proven guilty. <snip>
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 17 09:08:44 1998
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From: "Todd D
Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 11:06:28 -0600
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Agreed - your point is taken
and I
will refrain from even responding
to the messages posted on this list
concerning
the matter as I have not posted any original
threads to the
List(s) regarding the situation.
- tds
OBSTEALTH - Mine is exactly
where it was
last summer
:)
-----------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday,
December 17, 1998 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brians
fall from grace
Todd...
I am truly sorry that you were burnt. I
suggest any discussions be taken
offline again, as you did
with your first e-mail.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 17 09:44:34 1998
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From: "Todd D
Shelton" <tds@brightok.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 11:42:16 -0600
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
You may wish to speak for yourself on
this point since
I have received outstanding legal references
and such
from several members and it's
very much appreciated.
-
tds
StealthRTTT with phantom 3.5 liter 0 HP
powerplant
-----------------------------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday,
December 17, 1998 10:59 AM
Subject: RE: Team3S: Brians
fall from grace
Todd...
I believe Darcy's point is that we (the list members) are neither
the
judge
nor jury and cannot help you recover any of
the damages you may be
seeking.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 17 10:02:05 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Brians fall from
grace
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No arguement Todd. Your position is even less enviable
than Brian's...mmm...no, not!! .
When things turn to shit like this, it's
hard not to want to lynch someone...preferably
the guy responsible. Be aware,
however, that any sentient being who subscribes here,
has been dialed
in, not only through what has been said, but what has been
left
unsaid,or what has been said on side channels (the latter two being
volumnes). I think
you have a legion of unseen friends here, so do not
dispair.
Darc
"May they who do ill to their comrades, inherit
the consequences of their
actions"...20th Century Curse.
Todd D
Shelton wrote:
> Would it help if I faxed you copies of my
>
payments made in June totaling THOUSANDS
> of dollars along with a current
picture and analysis
> of my motor with the same 2 toasted
pistons?
> The owner of Portmasters has confirmed what
> has already
been discussed and MUCH more that
> I have not revealed. I have
chosen to speak of only
> what has happened to me personally but there
is
> clear evidence and documentation of MANY other
> criminal
offenses that have been committed.
> Perhaps you need to be swindled out
of a few
> thousand yourself to understand?
>
> -
tds
>
>
-------------------------------------------------------
>
-----Original Message-----
> From:
wce@bc.sympatico.ca <wce@bc.sympatico.ca>
>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Date:
Thursday, December 17, 1998 10:20 AM
> Subject:
Re: Team3S: Brians fall from grace
>
> Hi
group;
>
> Brian's situation is not
enviable. However, a court has not been
> convened nor a
jury
> selected...ie he has not been proven
guilty. Everything is alleged at
> this point,
as
> the whole picture is not really known, albeit
some large chunks have
> been revealed.
He
> has been cut from the list by admin for
protection of members and for
> the protection
of
> the list admin itself. What Brian did or
didn't do, and what he does or
> doesn't do
to
> rectify the situation is all a matter of
conjector. Just remember what
> you print here
in
> the form of accusations is in print..it's not
alleged or word of mouth.
> Better to let
>
this one rest. And, as a reminder, you do not have to rip list members
>
off to be banned
> from this list...just start
flaming away or plain being a jerk, and see
> how long
it
>
lasts.
>
> Darc
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 17 11:17:44 1998
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From:
"Bob Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: The FINAL Word on GT
Alley (Off-Topic)
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 11:16:53 -0800
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>>>PLEASE, to protect Todd and Roger and others,
take any further discussion
of this to PRIVATE emails, although subsequent
developments may be posted in
way of warning... Todd and Roger may
choose to share updates, but we should
all be careful to keep discussions to
ourselves. There may be questions of
legal liability here, and we don't
want to jeopardize any future actions.
If no one objects, I'll be editing out
any references to these matters from
the digests, which are available for
public view (unless someone has a
better idea for password access,
etc). According to our rules, private
emails should not be published
either, so I'll just summarize what has
transpired. If there are
questions, feel free to email any of the admins
privately.
Thanks.<<<
Yesterday, I emailed Brian at GT Alley with a
request for immediate
clarification on how he intended to handle what he owed
to Todd and Roger.
I received a reply from him explaining his trials and
tribulations with
Charles Hupp, who he claims is/was his partner, that he is
out of money and
has no access to Todd's engine or Roger's parts. The
Team3S admins
conferred and GT Alley was removed from the list, as per our
rules. We sent
him a letter explaining that he had been removed because
he had wronged at
least two of our subscribers, and that we would all be wary
of the GT Alley
name and Charlie Hupp and Brian LaFuente until full
restitution was made.
That ends our involvement. Hopefully, Todd
and Roger will keep us informed.
Bob Forrest
Admin,
Team3S
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 17 17:40:04 1998
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Is this list working?
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owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 17 19:05:11 1998
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From:
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Re:
Testing
Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 19:05:13 -0800
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Sure is...
Welcome RPM... We just don't make any
noise unless there's something to say
about our cars... If you want to
catch up, there are a ton of archives on
our temp web page (URL
below).
Glad to have you with us!
Forrest
-----Original
Message-----
From: RPM Motorsports <rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Thursday, December 17, 1998 5:40 PM
Subject: Team3S: Re:
Testing
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 17 19:32:05 1998
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From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poss.
shop(reply)
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> If you need some practice, I'd be glad to
volunteer! --
>-Jeff Crabtree
> '91 Stealth R/T
Turbo(#499)
> '93
Wrangler 4.0L Sport
Me too. I would love to take my car to s shop
that knows MY car. If your
gunna do well though you'll have to do all
cars ... but that doesn't mean
you can't be a Well Know Tuner of Mits and
Toyota's.
One other tip... Don't rag on the cars people bring in.
Have the owner
take you for a preformance test drive. Makes him fell better
and the
liabilty off you.
93 VR-4
# 0007
Tampa/Orlando FL
"He who laughs last ... thinks
slowest"
______________________________________
Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
bcdmad@concentric.net
Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
______________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 17 21:18:35 1998
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From: "Ron-a-roid"
<rtetetet@email.msn.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: shifter
alignment
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 00:22:25 -0500
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Is there any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
possible cause of
some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in
the feel of the
engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd
where if you
exert
a small amount of rearward pressure, you can feel the
gears not fully
engaged. It almost wants to pop out of gear. Have you fooled
with shifter
adjustment in your cars to any
point?
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 17 22:22:43 1998
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stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: Poss.
shop(reply)
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<36789C95.E491B011@sprintmail.com>
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How about guaranteed work? I try to avoid the dealer
like the plague,
but the one thing they DO offer is a limited warantee,
usually a
year/10,000 miles. When you're talking about the timing belt,
clutch,
brakes, or any other major work, I usually think twice before going
to
an independent shop for just this reason. Of course in the case of
GT
Alley, had they done any work to my car, a warantee woulnd't
mean
anything now that they're defunct...
Also, I second the notion of
a good web page (with PRICES) and would add
responsive Email feedback (I'm
not going to call the States from
Germany) and fast shipping to the
list.
Good luck!
-Jim
--
Jim Matthews - Wiesbaden,
Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided
brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 18 01:36:17 1998
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Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:34:32
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: RE: Possible new shop
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Brad,
You are certainly getting a wealth of useful
advice. I have
only a couple small suggestions to add:
1)
Establish a solid presence at the local import track events.
In other words,
put together some fast cars that agree to be
sponsored by your shop.
This always gains my respect. It
will also contribute to the
"word-of-mouth" effect, as well as
make for good advertising
material.
2) Set up a bulletin board for used parts. Just
make sure to
have a disclaimer for any liability for sales/trades made
between
customers.
3) One word:
Cleanandopenparkingspace. There are a couple
shops that I ~never~ go to
because the parking is a joke.
Good luck!
--Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 18 04:30:21 1998
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: shifter
alignment
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 07:30:09 -0500
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Yes! I have the same unsure feeling in mine. I
spent some time looking at
it the other day and came to the realization that
the shift knob ends up in
the same position in 4th as it is in 2nd.
When I put it in 4th, the knob
returns to the 2nd gear position. No
wonder I have difficulty getting into
4th during more "spirited"
driving! The same thing, to a lesser extent, is
true with 1st and
3rd. A shorter throw would exacerbate the problem. I'm
thinking
about going back to the stock shifter.
I have not fooled with the shifter
adjustment, although there *are* a couple
of turnbuckles that allow you to
adjust the overall length of the cables.
-Bob
> Is there any
possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
possible cause of some of the
trany failures? I've not been real confident
in the feel of the engagement of
the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd
where if you exert a small amount
of rearward pressure, you can feel the
gears not fully engaged. It almost
wants to pop out of gear. Have you fooled
with shifter adjustment in your
cars to any point?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 18 07:30:28 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: shifter
alignment
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Bob, Ron, et all;
Perhaps feedback to Chrysler or
Getrag might be in order on this. I have noticed less
than optimal shifting
with mine from the outset, but assumed it was standard without
questioning
possible long term effects. Jack, do you still have an avenue with Getrag
to
send feedback??
Darc
Bob Fontana wrote:
>
Yes! I have the same unsure feeling in mine. I spent some time
looking at
> it the other day and came to the realization that the shift
knob ends up in
> the same position in 4th as it is in 2nd. When I
put it in 4th, the knob
> returns to the 2nd gear position. No
wonder I have difficulty getting into
> 4th during more
"spirited" driving! The same thing, to a lesser extent,
is
> true with 1st and 3rd. A shorter throw would exacerbate the
problem. I'm
> thinking about going back to the stock
shifter.
>
> I have not fooled with the shifter adjustment, although
there *are* a couple
> of turnbuckles that allow you to adjust the overall
length of the cables.
>
> -Bob
>
> > Is there any
possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
> possible cause of some of
the trany failures? I've not been real confident
> in the feel of the
engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd
> where if you
exert a small amount of rearward pressure, you can feel the
> gears not
fully engaged. It almost wants to pop out of gear. Have you fooled
> with
shifter adjustment in your cars to any point?
>
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 18 10:16:47 1998
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Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998
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<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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Quick question...
My headlights are noticably
dimmer at idle. If I blip the throttle,
they brighten up and then
gradually dim back down. The car still turns
over nice and strong, but
I can't help but wonder if my original 1994
battery is on its last
legs. I'm also wondering how much of a role the
battery plays at
high-rpm driving. If my battery is weak, is it causing
weak spark and
robbing the engine of power? This was the case on my old
crotch rocket
and I'm curious if the same is true in this case.
Finally, batteries were
discussed in some recent posts. I'd appreciate
suggestions on what I
should look into if it is in fact time to replace
mine.
Thanx!
-Jim
P.S.- The "black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE
around here. Time to take
it easy for a while...
--
Jim Matthews
- Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided
brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 18 10:26:00 1998
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>,
stealth@starnet.net
Subject: RE: Team3S: Possible new shop
Date: Fri, 18
Dec 1998 13:25:52 -0500
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stealth-3000gt
A lot of good points have already been mentioned, I
figure I'll toss out
another idea or two, along with some honest opinions on
my two favorite
shops:
- What draws me is proof that the shop *knows*
my car. I go to Extreme
Motorsprts because they're one of the two best DSM
tuners in the country,
and they also specialize in the 3000GT which is a
similar car. I like Nexus
becuase I've seen Mike Ma's project VR-4 there. So
if a customer comes in
with a 3S or DSM, show them your car - your knowledge
of the car and
excitement for it will help build trust with the customer.
Similarly, if
someone brings you an MR2, have a notebook of pics of your old
MR2 and its
mods to show them.
- The only people I want working on
my car are ones who *care* about it. I'm
sure the mechanics at Extreme
Motorsports are much more experienced and
knowledgable than the guys at Nexus
Motorsports. But I still prefer taking
my car to Nexus because they care
about my vehicle and treat it right. At
Extreme, they've got a couple guys
who are way overzealous with the airgun,
if you know what I
mean.
- When you're starting up a shop, offer people amazing deals.
Work for free
if necessary. Your first couple of clients will be the most
important in
spreading the word around that your shop even exists. I think
Chien did an
amazing job getting Nexus off the ground - he worked with
several local
people off the starnet list, offerring amazing prices. He
showed up at the
Gathering with K&N's at a price so low he sold a massive
pile of them in
minutes. And people spread the word for him very quickly.
When he first
opened his doors, business was slow, because few people knew
about his shop.
But he offered some great deals to get the word out, and
within months, he
was booked solid.
- Organize events. Hold a
Texas Gathering at your shop. Work with local
clubs and organizations.
Organize trips to dragstrips and speedways.
Promote, promote, promote. The
first big hurdle is to get the word out that
you exist. Once people know
you've got a shop, they'll start checking you
out - the second step is
convincing them of your quality.
Best of
luck!
-Ed
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 18 10:34:29 1998
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Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:32:41
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>
>
> My headlights are
noticably dimmer at idle. If I blip the throttle,
> they brighten up
and then gradually dim back down. The car still turns
> over nice
and strong, but I can't help but wonder if my original 1994
> battery is
on its last legs.
Jim, this sounds as if it might be alternator rather
than battery. My battery just
wouldn't hold much of a charge when it was on
it's last legs, and if I let the car sit a
few days, it wouldn't be able to
turn it over. In other vehicles, I have found that
dimming of headlights
usually involved the charging system (alternator) which in turn
led to
battery failure/discarge. Have that checked as well. As for batteries...I
went
with the NASCAR heavy duty sucker (heavier plates etc) and so far it has
been absolutely
great...made for race
cars!
Best
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date:
Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:45:45 -0800
From: Ken Middaugh
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Division
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Poss.
shop(reply)
References: <008701be2961$cb263d40$1b3963d1@brad>
<36789C95.E491B011@sprintmail.com>
<34EA801E.4FCCC107@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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My 2 HP:
I do not mind paying a premium hourly rate
if the quality and expertise
deserve it. However, I expect that that
expertise will allow the job to
be done quicker than the "book"
estimate and with higher quality. One
thing I can't stand is getting a
book quote for X hours, they spend X/2
hours performing the job, but they
still bill me for X hours. I'd
rather pay a higher hourly rate for
actual hours worked than pay any
rate for hours not actually worked. I don't
like getting reamed. I
respect fairness and honesty above all
else. A close second for me is
quality.
--
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
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Jim, maybe you remember that my 1993 battery just died two
weeks ago. The lights
never got dimmed but it was much harder to get the car
running from day to day
(over 3 days until 0 !). The battery was charged by
3/4 but making a test with
80Amps load the voltage dropped below 6 Volts ...
eof ! My dealer did the test
and since I have the new Fortis batt (damn
expensive here !) I've no problems
anymore ;-)
> P.S.- The
"black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here. Time to
take
> it easy for a while...
Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ...
but in turns, whooo !
Cheers,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 18 13:21:31 1998
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: AWD on ice
Date:
Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:21:20 -0500
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Hi,
> > P.S.- The "black ice" is
absolutely TERRIBLE around here. Time to take
> > it easy for a
while...
>
> Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ... but in turns,
whooo !
What do you mean by that Roger? AWD is good on
ice?
I was in New Jersey a couple of winters ago. I had Goodyear
GSC 275x40x17
tires. They absolutely STUNK on snow and ice. Even
at 10 MPH, if I lightly
applied the brakes, the car would slide for 50 or 60
yards. Lucky I didn't
crash into anything or end up in the ditch.
I assume that I needed snow
radials? Driving
lessons?
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 18 13:34:44 1998
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: battery
Date:
Fri, 18 Dec 1998 13:35:10 -0800
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Jim...
My experience has been that dim lights at
idle (that come back up under
throttle) is related to the battery. It can
also be related to the charging
system, but that should be less likely. One
way is to check the voltage
going to the battery. Should be at least 13.5
vdc. Another way is the old
fashioned acid tester that you can buy at most
parts stores for a couple
bucks. Most effective is a diagnostic check by a
battery shop. The can tell
you if it's the plates, the electrolyte, or the
charging system.
BTW...the FIRST thing I do is pull the cables and clean
the terminals. You'd
be surprised how many times the problem is caused by
corrosion between the
two surfaces.
Now, as for the battery, I just
put in a Predator dry cell battery (thanks
to Hau). It weighs less than 10
pounds, takes up less than half the space of
the stock battery and is
maintenance free. If you need some extra real
estate under the hood, think
about this option.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let
friends ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthews
[mailto:matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de]
Sent: Friday, December 18, 1998 10:16
AM
To: Team 3S
Subject: Team3S: battery
Quick question...
My
headlights are noticably dimmer at idle. If I blip the throttle,
they
brighten up and then gradually dim back down. The car still turns
over
nice and strong, but I can't help but wonder if my original 1994
battery is
on its last legs. I'm also wondering how much of a role the
battery
plays at high-rpm driving. If my battery is weak, is it causing
weak
spark and robbing the engine of power? This was the case on my
old
crotch rocket and I'm curious if the same is true in this case.
Finally, batteries were discussed in some recent posts. I'd
appreciate
suggestions on what I should look into if it is in fact time to
replace
mine. Thanx!
-Jim
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Jim, maybe you remember that my 1993 battery just died two
weeks ago. The lights
never got dimmed but it was much harder to get the car
running from day to day
(over 3 days until 0 !). The battery was charged by
3/4 but making a test with
80Amps load the voltage dropped below 6 Volts ...
eof ! My dealer did the test
and since I have the new Fortis batt (damn
expensive here !) I've no problems
anymore ;-)
> P.S.- The
"black ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here. Time to
take
> it easy for a while...
Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ...
but in turns, whooo !
Cheers,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 18 14:38:14 1998
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From:
"Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Looking for a used
VPC
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 17:38:03 -0500
Message-ID:
<000101be2ad7$1300b020$0201a8c0@mitspc.securitytechnologies.com>
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I need a used VPC head unit. Actually, I just need
the main circuit board
if that's all you have. I was playing around
with mine and accidentally
toasted it.
Please
RTP.
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Fri
Dec 18 16:35:22 1998
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From: "Bill Miller"
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Organization: Very little ... as always
To:
"Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>,
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 19:37:35
-0500
Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on ice
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Your problem wasn't your driving. It was
your tires. Wide tires are mostly useless on ice
and snow. You need a small
contact patch to concentrate the mass of your car for
traction. I use
225/45's in the winter and would go to 205's if I could get reasonable
wheels.
275's I would characterize as
"Skiis".
Bill
91 TT "Old Red" -- Just been driven
in this year's first icy weather today!
On 18 Dec 98, at 16:21, Bob
Fontana wrote:
> Hi,
>
> > > P.S.- The "black
ice" is absolutely TERRIBLE around here. Time to
> > >
take it easy for a while...
> >
> > Don't tell me this ... AWD
rules ... but in turns, whooo !
>
> What do you mean by that
Roger? AWD is good on ice?
>
> I was in New Jersey a couple
of winters ago. I had Goodyear GSC 275x40x17
> tires. They
absolutely STUNK on snow and ice. Even at 10 MPH, if I
> lightly
applied the brakes, the car would slide for 50 or 60 yards. Lucky
>
I didn't crash into anything or end up in the ditch. I assume that
I
> needed snow radials? Driving lessons?
>
>
-Bob
Humpty Dumpty was pushed...
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Cc: Bob Forrest
<bf@bobforrest.com>,
Chris
Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>,
Darcy Gunnlaugson
<wce@bc.sympatico.ca>,
Jim
Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>,
Mikael Akesson
<vr4@bahnhof.se>, Rich LeRoy
<rleroy@pacifier.com>,
Roger
Gerl
<robby@swissonline.ch>
Subject: Team3S: Team3S list
announcement
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:40:16 -0800
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stealth-3000gt
Howdy folks...
This list, which we've called
Team3S, was formed by seven of us who wanted a
list devoted to technical
discussions about Mitsubishi 3000GTs and Dodge
Stealths. There's been some
question about whether this is an "open" or
"closed" list
and whether people can join by invitation only. The answer to
those questions
are "open" and "no", respectively.
However, there is
a list of rules which were developed by the seven of us.
These rules (and the
Team3S archives) can be found
at:
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
Please review the rules.
Joining the Team 3SI list indicates acceptance of
these rules and your
willingness to abide by them. You may (or may not)
agree with some (or all)
of them, but if you want to be part of this list
you have to agree to live by
them.
While we are fortunate enough to have collected most of the worlds
3S
technical experts on this list, we have no intention of excluding those
who
are new to their vehicles and want to learn more. We merely intend to
keep
the signal to noise ratio very high. We don't feel bad if there are only
one
or two posts per day, and we don't feel the need to fill the vacuum
with
other noise. For those who want to have social discussions, flame wars,
or
non-technical 3S discussions, pursue them privately or on another list.
For those of you who may not know the seven of us, we are (in
alphabetical
order):
Bob Forrest, Chris Winkley, Darcy Gunnlaugson,
Jim Matthews, Mikael Akesson,
Rich LeRoy, and Roger Gerl.
You can call
us the List Administrators, the List Moderators, the Moderation
Board, or
anything else you'd like. We've been here for three months, have
grown to
over eighty subscribers, and we're extremely pleased with the
success of our
list. Feel free to invite others to join. Direct them to the
web site that
appears at the end of my signature. If you have questions
about this post,
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THANKS!!!
Looking
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Fri Dec 18 22:36:46 1998
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Hey Jim;
I refected a bit more on the battery
question, and am inclined to agree with Chris, and
back off on my initial
tact. If the alternator is going it will start to impact on
driving at higher
rpm's as well, showing a drain on the battery particulary with night
driving.
. It will start showing trouble, however, as you described, at low
rpm's.
I'd still check the alternator (and the clean the battery
connections), as well as
insure you have a good ground. When my battery
went, it was showing a green charged
"eye", as if it was still
good, but would not hold a charge if the car sat two or three
days. This
feature is unreliable on the newer batteries.
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 19 05:11:03 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on ice (very
long)
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> > Don't tell me this ... AWD rules ... but in
turns, whooo !
>
> What do you mean by that Roger? AWD is
good on ice?
>
> I was in New Jersey a couple of winters ago.
I had Goodyear GSC 275x40x17
> tires. They absolutely STUNK on snow
and ice. Even at 10 MPH, if I lightly
> applied the brakes, the car
would slide for 50 or 60 yards. Lucky I didn't
> crash into anything
or end up in the ditch. I assume that I needed snow
> radials?
Driving lessons?
I just came home from Munich and had to drive through
the forest close to my
hometown. Infront of me was a car only doing about
50km/h where I normally drive
around 100km/h. I then started to overtake him
and when I hit the gas I felt how
the rear started to swing out. But very
fast the power was transfered and I felt
the grip comming back from the
front. Of course I had to steer against the way
the car acted but it was more
funny than dangerous. I have the german snow
radials from Continental on the
stock wheels (235/45-17). On normal streets the
understeer into a curve and
oversteering in the curve is much more noticeable
and I always have to change
my driving style in winter (sure, hehe). On icey
streets they are very good
as it seems that the threads are well designed. Also
on snow the traction is
ok for this huge winter-tire size (original made for
Porsche, M3 and Mercedes
AMG), much better than the Uniroyals I had before.
Alsdo hydroplaning is not
that critical as it was with earlier tires.
For now I don't speak of
braking :)
I took both my cars to the driving school this year where we
have a special
gliding street. With the Camaro I had soooo much trouble to
make the course
savely without hitting an orange plastic thing (ahem, don't
know the name ?). We
have two different gliding streets, one is bone flat and
the other is a curve
and hangs out only a few degrees. The Z28 immediatly
flipped out at the rear and
the oversteer was very hard to be controlled.
Even on the flat street the Z
always tended to brake out in the rear. Of
course, the big tourque, weight and
RWD where a problem here. On the curve
course it was not to bad as the car only
broke loose to one side and I could
manage the situation savely. I had to use
this experince on the Autobahn with
10cm of fresh snow and frozen bridge. It
safed the life of the Camaro for
sure !
The 3k handeld much better and was very neutral on the flat
course. When I made
a fast reaction with the steering wheel the car
immediatly turned the back to
the the other side. Stepping slightly onto the
gas with steering only a little
(very important !) to the other side brought
me back to the desired line. Also a
Cherokee and a Range Rover made their job
very good too. The badiest car was ...
a F355. With its concept the car has
it's turning bas in the middle of the car
and once it runned out of the line
the driver had no chance to get it back. It
was funny to see a Ferrary
spinning 4 times. Also a Subaru AWD had problems as
it seemed that his AWD
was locked in some way. We increased speed more and more
to see where the car
started to change its behaivour and the 3K started to
understeer very quick
with only a little more speed. But with only a little
steering the wheels
where able to have some of the grip that lasted without
going into gliding.
When the front went off, we had to play with the clutch and
the brake to get
it back. Nedless to say that I turned many times too until I
managed it more
or less. On the course with the turn. The 3K acted the same way.
When I was
too fast, the car understeered havely and I was able to get it back
by
pressing the clutch and trying to brake and steering into the curve. When
I
was slow and hit the gas ... the whole car went out the track. No
understeer as
with FWD and no oversteer as with RWD, just the whole car
runned sideways out.
This was interesting as I expected that the 55% on the
rear will give me some
oversteer tha I can handle. No way. When an AWD car
brakes loose in the front
and the rear ... just hit the brakes. I then tried
to press the clutch and
giving more steer but the front wheels glided and I
was not of much luck. The M3
and the F355 as well the Jag (with traction
control) made it good. Me too, but
it took much longer :)
Braking is
another story. The winter tires are definitely better on the cold
streets as
they stay softer on the lower temperatures. On wet/icey streets as
well as on
snow. But if the conditions are bad (and they can be very quick in or
after
one curve) then only hitting the brakes and steering a little is the way
that
works. If steering too much the front wheels start to glide with or
without
ABS (I pulled the fuse to check out). The rule is trying to keep the
fronts
having always some grip (there's always a little left). Then the ABS
can do it's
work good and you'll be somewhat safer as you'll be able to go
away from
trouble. In braking, the weight of the cars and the condition of
the tires are
very important. The worst car was a Mustang with somewhat worn
summer tires, the
best car was an older BMW 318i that was very controllable
even without ABS, no
traction control. But he had small, good winter tires
with a good tread on the
shoulder. We gave the driver a big thumbs up
!
The rule is to have the appropriate tires for the right season. But
this all
does not help if your too fast. As you said 10mph can be too fast. I
was in 2nd
gear at 1600 and the car just wanted to show me the opposite
street. For the
experience it's very good to have this tested on a small
course with gliding
streets and curve-distance measuring with the help of an
expert. I highly
recommend such classes for EVERY driver !
Last but
not least a short story about the woman that drove a Saab
convertible.
"It MUST handle good on snow as it comes from nothern
Europe" she said in the
morning. "My car can't do this..." she
said 2hs later. The instructor took her
car drove through the course like an
animal and came back. The lady had no more
blood in her face looked at the
car with almost burnt tires and said "Never
treat my car like
this".... But she did too at the end of the day :)
Take care and
drive safe,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Dec 19 07:30:25 1998
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Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 10:30:20 -0500 (EST)
From:
JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery
In-Reply-To:
<367A9FC8.92F002F0@bc.sympatico.ca>
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stealth-3000gt
Is this the Exide one?????
On Fri, 18
Dec 1998 wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
My headlights are noticably dimmer at idle. If I blip the
throttle,
>>> they brighten up and then gradually dim back
down. The car still turns
>>> over nice and strong, but I
can't help but wonder if my original 1994
>>> battery is on its last
legs.
>>
>>Jim, this sounds as if it might be alternator
rather than battery. My battery just
>>wouldn't hold much of a charge
when it was on it's last legs, and if I let the car sit a
>>few days,
it wouldn't be able to turn it over. In other vehicles, I have found
that
>>dimming of headlights usually involved the charging system
(alternator) which in turn
>>led to battery failure/discarge. Have that
checked as well. As for batteries...I went
>>with the NASCAR heavy duty
sucker (heavier plates etc) and so far it has been
absolutely
>>great...made for race
cars!
>>
>>Best
>>
>>Darc
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep is America's only
real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 19 08:29:08 1998
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Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:27:18
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Frank;
Yep, it's Excide ... EXIDE NASCAR SELECT
835...race proven, 84 month total warranty, 2 year
free replacement. Thus
far, a real good battery....but then they all seem great when new. If I
have
any problems I will post on it, but I don't anticipate any with the developement
and
testing that was done on it.
Best
Darc
92 TT
Stealth 40 k kms, #145
JEEPers wrote:
> Is
this the Exide one?????
>
> On Fri, 18 Dec 1998 wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
>
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>>>
> >>>
> >>> My headlights are
noticably dimmer at idle. If I blip the throttle,
> >>>
they brighten up and then gradually dim back down. The car still
turns
> >>> over nice and strong, but I can't help but wonder if
my original 1994
> >>> battery is on its last legs.
>
>>
> >>Jim, this sounds as if it might be alternator rather
than battery. My battery just
> >>wouldn't hold much of a charge
when it was on it's last legs, and if I let the car sit a
> >>few
days, it wouldn't be able to turn it over. In other vehicles, I have found
that
> >>dimming of headlights usually involved the charging system
(alternator) which in turn
> >>led to battery failure/discarge. Have
that checked as well. As for batteries...I went
> >>with the NASCAR
heavy duty sucker (heavier plates etc) and so far it has been absolutely
>
>>great...made for race cars!
> >>
>
>>Best
> >>
> >>Darc
> >>
>
>>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>>
>
>
Frank
>
-JEEPers-
>
"Kung-Fu
Forrest"
>
> MY
WEB PAGE IS UP AT
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>
>
"Jeep is America's only real sports car" Mr.
Enzo Ferrari
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Dec 19 11:35:39 1998
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Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:33:52
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Merry
Christmas
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stealth-3000gt
Yo Team
The very best of the season to all you
Stealthaholics out there. Try
not to mix spirits and driving, and if you do,
don't drive.
Darc
admin, Team 3S
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sat Dec 19 15:15:15 1998
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Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 18:15:09 -0500 (EST)
From:
JEEPers <fxc9364@megahertz.njit.edu>
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: battery
In-Reply-To:
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stealth-3000gt
I had "blew apart" 2 Ac-Delco battery on my
mom's Cherokee. The acid
started leaking out the side terminal even
though the Jeep uses top
posts. I plan to switch to the Exide and get a
new alternator since I
already had the starter changed on my momo's
cherokee.
ob 3KGT: The Ac-Delco on my bro's VR-4 is still good and
running strong.
On Sat, 19 Dec 1998 wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
>>Frank;
>>
>>Yep, it's Excide ... EXIDE
NASCAR SELECT 835...race proven, 84 month total warranty, 2 year
>>free
replacement. Thus far, a real good battery....but then they all seem great when
new. If I
>>have any problems I will post on it, but I don't anticipate
any with the developement and
>>testing that was done on
it.
>>
>>Best
>>
>>Darc
>>
>>92
TT Stealth 40 k kms, #145
>>
>>JEEPers
wrote:
>>
>>> Is this the Exide
one?????
>>>
>>> On Fri, 18 Dec 1998 wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
>>>
>>> >>
>>>
>>
>>> >>
>>> >>>
>>>
>>>
>>> >>> My headlights are noticably dimmer at
idle. If I blip the throttle,
>>> >>> they brighten
up and then gradually dim back down. The car still turns
>>>
>>> over nice and strong, but I can't help but wonder if my original
1994
>>> >>> battery is on its last legs.
>>>
>>
>>> >>Jim, this sounds as if it might be alternator
rather than battery. My battery just
>>> >>wouldn't hold much
of a charge when it was on it's last legs, and if I let the car sit
a
>>> >>few days, it wouldn't be able to turn it over. In
other vehicles, I have found that
>>> >>dimming of headlights
usually involved the charging system (alternator) which in turn
>>>
>>led to battery failure/discarge. Have that checked as well. As for
batteries...I went
>>> >>with the NASCAR heavy duty sucker
(heavier plates etc) and so far it has been absolutely
>>>
>>great...made for race cars!
>>> >>
>>>
>>Best
>>> >>
>>>
>>Darc
>>> >>
>>> >>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>>
>>
>>>
>>>
Frank
>>>
-JEEPers-
>>>
"Kung-Fu
Forrest"
>>>
>>>
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
>>>
>>>
"Jeep is America's only real sports car" Mr.
Enzo Ferrari
>>>
>>> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>>
>>
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
Frank
-JEEPers-
"Kung-Fu Forrest"
MY WEB PAGE IS UP AT
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6045/
"Jeep is America's only
real sports car" Mr. Enzo Ferrari
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 08:37:53 1998
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Date: Sun, 20
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From: "R.G."
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re:
Team3S: Looking for a used VPC
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> I need a used VPC head unit. Actually, I just
need the main circuit board
> if that's all you have. I was playing
around with mine and accidentally
> toasted it.
Bob, I don't have
any board around but I have the VPC control unit lying around
open if you'd
like to compare anything that mybe needs to be replaced.
Sorry, this is
maybe not of much help.
Roger
-----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Subject:
Team3S: Fuel pump question
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stealth-3000gt
I'm still in the GT &%ç research thing and
nearly fall over the fuel pump I got
from Brian. It is a Nippon Denso pump
with the description 5T11 and the number
195130-1020.
Can someone
please verify what kind of pump this is and how much it flows ?
Thanks in
advance,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 08:37:56 1998
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From: "R.G."
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Little oil survey on our cars / oil level
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Since I got the car in Feb94 (93 model) I ran only
synthetics in the car. At the
beginning 10W-40, then 5W-40 and now 5W-40
mixed with 10W-60. Also in the
beginning I used some snake oil like Slick 50
and Ceramica but stopped after
discussions as well as it was just too
expensive.
As my car got the slight rebuild, I checked many parts out
:
The oil lines where in perfect conditions and there was no sign of
any
cristalized oil visible.
The cylinder walls looked very good and
the mechanic was surprised even after 3
of the pistons broke. Very, very low
wear for 65k.
Same ot the heads. There was no need to grind them as
measurment showed an
absolutely plain surface.
The cams also show less
wear then expected and after cleaning the intake and the
valves also these
parts showed lesser wear than expected.
I run the bleeder valve with
0.75bars of boost peak (around 350hp dynoed) since
June 1994 and therefore
the car was used over the specs it was built for some
years. This does not
lead me into the conclusion that snake oils helped in any
way but it says
that they don't hurt as well. The broken pistons where due to my
ignorance
and have nothing to to with this.
Back to the oil. I'm sure using very
good quality oil and changing it every
5000-7500km is the key to the good
condition the parts are in. Measuring the oil
temp showed up to 106°C on
the dyno. Normal use showed around 98°C and less but
I expect higher
temps when driving for a long time on the german autobahn
(gulp). The cars
came with Castrol 10W-40 Synthetics and I always stayed with it
as I never
had any problem. As the synths came down in price I went to 5W-40
due
to the many cold-starts I had during the winter times. Also null
problemos.
About 1 year ago I went to the Mobil 0W-40 for the best cold start
protection
but then I often ran into getting the oil-level light (just above
the ASC ON
light) on the autobahn. Especially on speeds over 150mph as the
streets went up
the hill the light came on. I immediatly lifted the throttle
and the light went
off. Checking the warm oil level showed about 1/2 to 3/4
of the range between
the marks then. I went back to Castrol 5W-40 and never
got this problem again
... until my compression problem started to begin
worse.
Before the rebuild I ran the car over it's limit and killed three
pistons and at
least 4 rings. Some pressure went down to the crankcase due to
this and caused
the oil cap to leak as well as the oil was pressed into the
intake through the
crankcase ventilation. This then caused alot oil deposits
in the intercollers
and it's piping. Also the idle stepper motor got totally
clogged as well as the
intake valves due to the damn oil. Now after the
rebuild there's still some oil
around but, luckily, there's no oil steam
comming out the BOV anymore (uff,
turbos are ok). As this happend the oil
level light came on very often at speeds
over 130mph so I decided not to go
higher then until the problem got fixed.
BTW, during the rebuild we also
exchanged the oil level switch to be sure
everything is alright. As I went to
Germany last week I speeded up to around
150mph as the damn light came on
again. I checked the oil level the night before
and the level was on 3/4 of
the range so I expected no problem there. As I drove
home on friday the light
came on at lower speeds until it appeared at 140km/h
(crusing speed here). I
went into the next gas station and got a bottle just to
be sure I have enough
oil in the pan. I let the car idle for 2 minutes and then
checked the oil
level. Nothing, nada, niente, empty ! I've checked what I could
see through
the oil cap hole and saw enough (damn hot) oil around. I filled the
litre in
and got close to the 3/4 mark on the stick ! No light the rest of
the
way.
Yesterday, I made some miles and also speeded up a hill.
Tataaaa, the light came
on again. I went home and filled up with 10W-60
Racing oil from Castrol. This
because the mechanic at Digit Power told me
earlier that this is the fluid they
highly recommend for our high temp
cars... espcially when the power is cranked
up. For winter use it's good to
have a good cold start oil and that's why I
decided to "mix" the
stuff. I went for a ride, heated the engine up as good as
possible and made
the hill tests. No problem since then :)
Well, the question arises if the
oil-level switch also does anything else than
measure the oil level. I don't
think it is related to the oil temperature but
who knows. Also I doubt that
it is related to the oil pressure as the meter
always showed a higher but
good pressure on the autobahn. For me, my experiences
are that oils with
0W-40 are somewhat too thin for our cars when getting into
hard high temp
conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for our cars but
not so great
for winter conditions.
Finally, a wide range seems to be better, say
5W-50 or so (I think Mobil 1 has
one) but I'll use the 10W-60 in the summer
and mix it with the 5W-40 in the
winter as Castrol does not have a high range
fluid. For me it currently works
good and it seems that the new stuff in the
engine lowered the ticking sound as
well.
Regards to
all,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 09:04:36 1998
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel pump
question
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:05:01 -0700
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stealth-3000gt
Roger,
I suggest contacting Road Race Engineering
(RRE) at
mailto:sales@roadraceengineering.com specifying the part number and
color of
the cap on the pump. Sometimes they are slow at responding so
bug them a
little.
Regards,
Barry
>
-----Original Message-----
>
> I'm still in the GT &%ç
research thing and nearly fall over the
> fuel pump I got
> from
Brian. It is a Nippon Denso pump with the description 5T11
> and the
number
> 195130-1020.
>
> Can someone please verify what kind
of pump this is and how much
> it flows ?
>
> Thanks in
advance,
> Roger
>
> -----------------------
> Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil survey (was:
Little oil survey on our cars)
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:08:44
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-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
[mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 9:35 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Little oil survey on our cars
/ oil level
<snip>
Regards to
all,
Roger
=================================
Roger...
The
subject line of your e-mail indicates a survey, which is a good idea.
I'll
collect the data and republish to the group after two weeks.
Anyone
interested in participating is welcome. Here's the questions I
propose, just
replace my data with yours:
1. Vehicle: 1995 VR4
2.
Oil weight: 5-50w
3. Oil brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
4. Filter
brand: OEM
5. Additives: None
6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or six
months
7. Observations: I changed from fossil oil to synthetic when
I
purchased the car 18 months ago. Aside from what I believe is a
"normal"
lifter tick (goes away at any rpm above 1500), I've had no
problems. I've
tried a number of additives over the years, and can't say I've
noticed any
improvement or degradation in performance. I will point out, that
with old
V8 beaters, STP oil treatment adds enough extra viscosity to prevent
oil
slipping around worn rings and valves (symptom - blue smoke out
the
exhaust). I've never had the oil light come on (as Roger described), but
my
opportunities to drive above 100mph are limited.
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey (was: Little
oil survey on our cars)
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> Chris...submission
>
> 1.
Vehicle:
1992 Stealth TT
> 2. Oil
weight: 10-30w
> 3.
Oil brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand:
Mitsu, Fram, etc.
> 5.
Additives: None now
(Slick 50 for 4 changes)
> 6. Change frequency: Every 3K
miles or six months
> 7.
Observations:
Synthetic Mobil 1 is used exclusively, (I was informed
> the initial
breakin period of 1000 kms was done on Quaker fossil.) No problems
noted
> with exception of standard ticking, which has been alleviated for
some time by using
> an oil flush (Gunk) at last oil change. Little
opportunity exists here to drive at
> high speeds for any lenght of time.
Were that availed perhaps a 5-50 or 5-60 might be
> the choice I would
option. 10-30, however has been just fine, with 5-30 used if winter
> is
colder than normal, here on the mild west coast. Oh, just over 40,000 kms on
the
> car.
Darcy
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:07:23
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey
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Thanks Chris .)
> 1.
Vehicle:
1993 VR4 (Euro Version)
> 2. Oil
weight: 5W-40 /
10W-60
> 3. Oil
brand: Castrol RS
(synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand:
Mitsu
> 5.
Additives: none now
(Slick 50, Ceramica in the first 2 years)
> 6. Change
frequency: Every 5K - 7.5k km
> 7.
Observations:
> Car came
with 10W-40 from Castrol and I used over the years until 5W-40 came
> out.
I also used Slick 50 and Ceramica snake oil and I cannot say if it did
>
anything good. At least it did nothing bad as the parts looked very good
>
when inspected during the rebuild. No deposits nor any expected wear.
>
Had the oil light comming on with 0W-40 Mobil 1 at very high speeds
(+150)
> and also with 5W-40 as the peisons were gone. With 10W-60 (or
mixed with
> 5W-40 in winter) the problem dissapeared. Castrol 10W-60 is
recommended by
> the local tuning shop that prepares Porsche TwinTurbos.
Ticking noise is also
> better with the "thicker"
oil.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Subject: Re: Team3S: oil survey/ oil
level
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R.G. wrote:
> 1 year ago went Mobil 0W-40 for best
cold start protection
> but then often getting oil-level light, especially
speed >150mph driving
> up hill. I lifted throttle, light went off.
Checking warm oil level showed 1/2-3/4 between
> marks. Back to
Castrol 5W-40 never got problem again
> until compression problem started
to get worse.
> Before rebuild ran car over its limit, killed three
pistons
> 4 rings. After rebuild still oil around but no oil steam
coming out BOV anymore.
> As this happend oil level light came on often
at speed >130mph.
> During rebuild exchanged oil level
switch. Last week at
> 150mph light came on again; oil level
night before 3/4.
> light came on at lower speeds until it appeared at
140km/h. I went into gas station,
> let car idle 2 minutes, then oil level
checked empty! I looked
> through oil cap hole, saw enough oil. I filled
a litre, got 3/4 mark on stick!
> Yesterday, speeded up hill, light came
on. Filled 10W-60 Racing Castrol, heated engine good
> made the hill
tests. No problem since then :) Question: if oil-level switch does
anything else than
> measure oil level. I doubt related to oil pressure as
meter
> always showed higher good pressure on autobahn. My
experiences
> are that 0W-40 are too thin for our cars when
> hard
high temp conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for our cars but
>
not so great for winter condition. Wide range seems better, say 5W-50 (I
think Mobil 1 has
> one) but I'll use 10W-60 in summer, mix 5W-40 winter
as Castrol doesn't have high range fluid.
> New stuff in engine lowered
ticking sound.
> Roger
Roger:
The oil level switch COULD still
reflect oil pressure; if oil in pan is
very low, and pump is intermittently
suckng air (oil pressure near zero
transiently) the oil pressure GUAGE won't
reflect this well because it
has such a slow rate of change; needle takes
awhile to get to new
values. This is like a gas guage on some cars,
which change SLOWLY so
as not to alarm people with transient changes due to
hills changing
angle of fuel in tank etc but give a time-average value.
The oil LIGHT
may reflect instant values, and could have sensitivity to pick
up very
transient oil pressure loss such as one sees with oilpan
near-empty.
I don't know if it is tied into oil pressure,
though. Sounds like you
are pumping alot of oil to the top end of the
motor (valvecovers), and
getting caught up in crank windage at sustained high
speeds. You could
consider 1) having a deeper oilpan made up, and
extending the oil pump
pickup downward to suck off the deeper sump.
Making about 2" (50mm)
deeper would hold another liter or more, and
could solve your problem.
MUCH deeper makes the pump have to suck up against
more of a vacuum
drawing the oil up, so I would not go TOO deep. Since
you are so
serious about your car, and do alot of highspeed driving, this
would be
the best way. Alternatives (not as good but functional) would
include
2) an oil pressure reservoir, that will send pressurized oil into
system
anytime pressure drops/sucks air (commercially available) but this
means
YOU STILL SUCK AIR; and 3) overfilling the crankcase (Full mark
plus
1/4-1/2 more or so). This works and can be fine; if indeed your
oil
level is below zero/causing oil level light WHEN DRIVING, then
clearly
the crankcase is NOT OVERFULL AT SPEED, so overfilling AT STOP would
NOT
mean the crank is plowing through crankcase oil way way up
when
driving--the oil is someplace you have no control over and
must
compensate for by overfilling AT REST.
I agree with heavier oil
for heavy load driving. I have always used
Mobil 1 15W50 all year round
including Wisconsin winters; no problems
with bearings etc. Synthetics
flow way better, even a 15W synthetic
flows better than a 10W standard in
supercold.
Hope this gives some ideas!
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 10:38:39 1998
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:39:34 -0800
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Howdy folks...
Darc made a good point that could
affect the data, so I added another field
for "current
mileage".
THANKS!!!
=======================================
1.
Vehicle: 1995 VR4
2. Current mileage: 35K
2. Oil weight: 5-50w
3. Oil
brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
4. Filter brand: OEM
5. Additives:
None
6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or six months
7. Observations:
========================================
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Sun, 20 Dec
1998 13:37:58 -0500
From: RPM Motorsports
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Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
Fumes
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For everyone who's running straight exhausts, and perhaps
EGR's blocked
off... Is your exhaust smell exceptionally noxious? I've
noticed mines
is getting to be particularly noxious compared to some other
straight
flowing exhausts, that I've done.
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust
Fumes
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:43:29 -0800
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-----Original Message-----
From: RPM Motorsports
[mailto:rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 1998 10:38
AM
To: Team3S
Subject: Team3S: Exhaust Fumes
For everyone who's
running straight exhausts, and perhaps EGR's blocked
off... Is your exhaust
smell exceptionally noxious? I've noticed mines
is getting to be particularly
noxious compared to some other straight
flowing exhausts, that I've
done.
==================================
Rumor had it that a catless
system would smell like rotten eggs. I still
have my precats, but I'm running
a straight 3" all the way to the bumper. No
unusual odors at this
point.
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends
ride with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 10:42:48 1998
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Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 13:41:47
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: AWD on ice
References:
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<367BB358.A1F01583@swissonline.ch>
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Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the snow cause
more of the
sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of tires behind
snow, the
skinnier the tire, the better it runs on snow due less area on
ice?
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 10:50:49 1998
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: shifter alignment
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I've found that the best shifter feeling to me in my 1991
is to switch a
94 shifter into the car and cut the bottom of the shifter off.
and
reweld the eyelet a little higher to the same location as the stock
91
shifter. There is actually a difference between the 91-93 and
94+
shifters. The 91's are stupendously high as compared to the 94's,
but
the 94's have a longer shaft at the bottom. Is the 94 chassis
lower
below the shifter?? I tried straight swapping the 94 shifter and I
found
that it would go into all the gears except 2nd, where it would clunk
and
not go it. I found this problem to be that the 94 has a longer base
on
the shifter, which actually hits the chassis, specifically where
the
chassis creates a groove for the shifter to go through. If you
look
underneath the shifter, it looks like there's a indentation for
the
shifter to go through when you shift into second. But once I
swapped
shifters, I had much shorter height without the close pattern of a
short
shifter. 2nd gear didn't seem as clunky, but I still don't
understand
why, the cable throw shouldn't be different.
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 10:58:12 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
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1.
Vehicle:
1993 VR4
2. Current mileage: 49,000
3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
5. Filter brand:
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 3K miles
8.
Observations: No problems. Very
little to no prob with lifter
tick. Stands up to hard use.
Jack
Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 10:58:25 1998
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From:
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To: "'Team3S'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Fuel cut
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 10:59:23 -0800
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Well, it's finally happened. The last couple days we've
had BEAUTIFUL
weather here in the PNW, so Beastie has been out from under
cover. Having
just finished the exhaust a few weeks ago, along with a BOV
and
bored/polished throttle body, I have better flow than ever before.
The
turbos spool quickly and stay there longer. Now, for the first time
ever,
I've had that "wonderful" fuel cut experience. You folks are
correct, nearly
slammed my head into the steering wheel. The engine recovers
quickly, but
this is NOT a good thing under WOT (or race) conditions. A
couple questions
for those who've already been here:
1. Will replacing
my injectors and fuel pump solve this?
2. What's the value of a "fuel
cut defencer" device?
3. I know there's been debate about the various
devices that can be run in
line with the stock ECU, but I noticed (in the
last issue of Max Speed) that
Jet Industries will now remap the stock ECU to
accommodate the specific mods
that I have. While this isn't cheap ($600) it's
less expensive than some of
the other options. Clearly the drawback is that
it's a one time thing, no
adjustment unless it's reprogrammed again. Not
ideal for the tuner who wants
to play with the settings, but if they can
optimize, it would be good for
those who don't want to tweak regularly. Has
anyone given them a try
recently? Ideas? Opinions?
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Chris Winkley wrote: [snips]
> finished exhaust,
BOV, bored/polished throttle body, better flow than ever.
> turbos spool
quickly, stay longer. For the first time,
> I've had fuel cut,
nearly slammed my head into steering wheel. engine recovers quickly, but
>
this NOT good under WOT. questions:
> 1. Will replacing my injectors and
fuel pump solve this?
No. Fuel pump has absolutely NOTHING TO DO
with fuelcut. Is however a
wise investment if going faster than
fuelcut-zone. Injectors alone will
just richen up mix, car will still
fuelcut but will be richer doing it
and run like crap because you have not
altered the endproduct of fuel
management programming to compensate for the
larger injectors.
> 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut
defencer" device?
Don't know. IF it worked might be relatively
poor band-aid (leanout).
> 3. various devices that can be run inline
with stock ECU; last issue of Max Speed
> Jet Industries will remap stock
ECU to accommodate specific mods
> I have $600; less expensive than some
other options. Clear drawback: one time thing, no
> adjustment unless
reprogrammed again. Not ideal for tuner who wants
> settings, but if they
optimize, would be good for
> those who don't want to tweak. Has anyone
given them a try recently?
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
With '95
you "can't use" a VPC (in quotes because no one has said how
and
printed it, but I am pretty sure it could be used...different wiring
harness
is issue, but only 3 or 4 wires need to be intercepted/tapped
into.)
I have heard through history that Jet Industries just puts some
sticker
on the stock computer box, gives you a couple additional parts
which
essentially vent the wastegate line some like a bleeder valve so
higher
boost, thus better performance; charging exorbitant fee while
ACTING
like they hacked into your computer which they did NOT. Whether
they
just "got religion" and suddenly are reputable, hired a
computer whiz,
and now TRULY, REALLY, check-really-IS-in-the-mail-THIStime
_DO_ do a
real and worthwhile COMPUTER mod is the question.
Dunno. Don't wanna
try, myself...
For 94+ the Apexi AFC will
work. Best technique is to get 550cc
injectors (or 720's will work with
VPC+GCC if 91-93; 720 might work with
AFC), because you fool the computer
into thinking you are flowing less
and less air, the larger the injectors you
use and the more you "lean
out" the VPC/GCC or the APexi AFC to
compensate for the larger
injectors. I have never fuelcut with
VPC/GCC/720cc injectors. With
550's it was almost never.
TRE
MASC also works/worked, but apparently they are not truly in
business
anymore...?
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Dec 20 12:24:44 1998
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Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:43:38
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From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on ice
References:
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> Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the snow
cause more of the
> sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of tires
behind snow, the
> skinnier the tire, the better it runs on snow due less
area on ice?
In fact the smaller the tire the better traction in snow.
But on ice the story
is different and the wideness of the tire doesn't play a
lot in that case. The
thread design and the rubber plays a more important
rule. On another hand the
wider the tire the larger the area each tire has
contact to the surface.
Therefore the force (pounds per square-inch) is
samller and the tire tends more
to "slide". This is theoretical
stuff but when you go to a prepared sliding
track you'll have to feel in your
back what's going on
:)
Roger,
icey-Switzerland
-----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "R.G."
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel cut
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Jack said everything and I add just my (bad) experiences
here.
First, what are all the mods you're having now and what fuel do you
run ?
I guess you've pushed boost up to around 1.2bars and plus. Fuel cut
appears when
the ECU jumps off its internal fuel map. Before this you'll
normally feel a
hesitation as it retards the timing when some of the fuel
values go out of the
map (timing is retarded when knock appears!!). On my car
fuel cut appeared at
1.25bars but some hesitation was feelable around
1.22bars peak. Therefore I'm
very sure you'll also have bad knock around
!
> > 1. Will replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve
this?
Jack said it all :)
> > 2. What's the value of a
"fuel cut defencer" device?
No, we don't have a "fuel cut
defencer" device like those for the Toyotas (MR2,
Supras). These cars do
have a boost pressure sensor that reads real values and
uses the signal in
the ECU. This can be tweaked by thinking the ECU that there's
less boost. The
same way can be done like Jack described for the Apexi AFC. I
got it because
I thought it is a good idea to increase fuel where the fuel-cut
appeard.
WRONG, because the fuel cut is related to knock and maxing out the
injectors.
After installing the AFC I was able to lean the mixture out and
fuel-cut
disappeard. Of course it did as I tweaked the ECU thinking that there's
less
air and therefore less fuel is given. As I did not install larger injectors
I
ran into the danger that the mixture was too lean. On the dyno we runned
the
car under full load at 5600 where fuel cut appeared and we were able to
lean it
out but were still in the safe area. So I thought I'm fine
...
.. until we found out where knock appeard ! We had to reduce boost to
1.05bars
to prevent knock and therefore any fuel-cut defencing is not
necessary anymore.
I therefore highly recommend to check this are because
an engine rebuild will be
your next step. Just adding too much fuel to cool
down the combustion chamber
may help but does not solve the knock problem.
Higher boost simply also means
higher octane level !
For the Jet thing
they have a very bad reputation like Jack said. The ECU
program can only be
changed by adding another dautherboard and EPROMS. Then the
program can be
altered. There's also a guy in Australia that says he does
something to the
ECU and for only around Aussie$ 800. Well nobody really knows
as these guys
of course do not tell the trick. I've got the G-Force ECU with
the
dautherboard and it's really alot of work. You can get it for around $850
but
still does not cure your knock thing.
> I have never fuelcut
with VPC/GCC/720cc injectors. With
> 550's it was almost
never.
Of course, Jack runned racing gas or used octane booster. Another
thing that
helps to prevent knock is to reduce backpressure in the exhaust
manifold that is
caused by the turbos.
Just don't go the risky way as
I did ! you can find the pics of my rebuild the
proken pistons on my
website.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
Visit my homepage under:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Subject: Team3S: Revised Oil
Survey
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All:
My 2 hp's worth
....
=======================================
1.
Vehicle:
1994 R/T
2. Current mileage: 72K
3. Oil
weight: 10-40w (Dino)
Since birth
4. Oil
brand: Quaker
5.
Filter brand: OEM/Fram every other oil
change
6.
Additives:
Absolutely None
7. Change frequency: Every 2.5K miles
8.
Observations: Lifter tick only when car sits for more than
4-5 days without
being driven. Always goes
away after the first mile or so of
driving.
Came up short at one oil change by almost a
1/2 quart.
Found an undertightened oil filter
caused the problem (followed the streak to
the
source).
Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 13:38:00 1998
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From: "R.G."
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Subject:
Team3S: HKS SBOV setting
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I just feel that the BOV opens too early. I've turned the
screw in (nut fully
yet) but it didn't changed a lot.
The beahivour is
that I normally drive around and shift normally, the thing
works good. But
with cruise control on ,when the throttle is open and goes to
almost closing,
it just feels like a short misfire then. This means when the
trottle will be
closed (not fully) slowely then everything is fine. But doing
this more
quickly (as the cruise control does) it feels like something hit me.
For me
the BOV opens to fast at a very low difference, releasing some boost and
then
closes immediatly causing the boost comming back. Does anyone have a good
way
how to set the BOV correctly ??
Thanks,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 14:16:42 1998
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From:
"Bob Fontana" <bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Oil Survey
Date:
Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:16:25 -0500
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These are the specs
1.
Vehicle:
1993 3KGT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 200 (since
rebuild)
3. Oil weight:
10-40w (Dino) Valvoline
4. Oil
brand:
Valvoline
5. Filter brand:
Purolator
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 1st change after 150 miles
8.
Observations: No oil loss. Oil in I/C subsystem seems to have dried
up.
After about 2000 miles, I will change to my regular old Mobil-1
15W50.
-Bob
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 14:28:55 1998
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 14:27:12
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From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
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1.
Vehicle:
1994 VR4
2. Current mileage: 34,000 (6k
miles of ownership)
3. Oil
weight:
10W-30
4. Oil
brand:
Mobil 1 Synthetic
5. Filter
brand:
OEM
6.
Additives:
None (about to try some Gunk)
7. Change frequency: Every 3K miles (3
changes so far)
8.
Observations: Little to no
lifter tick. When it arises, it
usually
goes away after a short warmup and slight
blip
of the throttle. The other day it was ticking
quite
a bit, but it went away when I opened the hood!
Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 14:27:17
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: shifter alignment
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Ron-a-roid wrote:
> Is there any possibility
that the shifters in the 3k is a possible cause of
> some of the
trany failures? I've not been real confident in the feel of the
>
engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd
[snip]
I just recently read somewhere that our cars use a
cable-operated
shifter. Is this true? Does this bear any
significance to the problem
at hand? I have heard people complain that
the cable operation is
a weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our
car doesn't
use one. What is the (superior?) alternative in other
sports cars?
Happy Holidays!
--Errin Humphrey
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 15:30:05 1998
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From: "Steven A. File" <sfile@usa.net>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil
Survey
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:23:30 -0600
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Here's both of my cars:
1.
Vehicle:
1997 3KGT VR-4 (pure stock)
2. Current mileage:
5850
3. Oil weight:
10-30w
4. Oil
brand: Mobil One
(Synthetic)
5. Filter brand: Mitsu
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every four months
8.
Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 500 miles to
Castrol
10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Have had car
since new,
bought August 1997. Valve tapping noise until changed to Mobil
One. Air
conditioner compressor replaced last October due to clicking noise
that
sounded a lot like lifter tapping--helped dramatically (see below). Took
car
on its first overnight road trip this weekend (about 350 miles) and got
36
miles per gallon of gasoline (no air conditioning) averaging 85 mph on
open
road. Car driven only on sunny weekends.
1.
Vehicle:
1998 3KGT SOHC
2. Current mileage: 28,950
3. Oil
weight: 10-30w
4. Oil
brand: Mobil One
(Synthetic)
5. Filter brand: Mitsu
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 5,000 miles or two
months
8. Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 525 miles to
Castrol
10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Valve lifters
replaced
at 2100 miles last March due to excessive noise--was later found to
be the
air conditioner compressor clutch making a clicking noise whenever the
air
was turned off. Have had car since new, bought December 1997. Slight
valve
tapping noise until changed to Mobil One. Daily
driver.
Steve File
mailto:sfile@usa.net
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: OT: 550
Maranello
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:27:19 -0700
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<000601be2c78$ab7ac500$0500a8c0@beast.kingdom.com>
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I just got back from a driving my friend's newly acquired
550 Maranello.
There are no words that I can put together to adequately
describe this car.
All I can say is "Wow", "Sweet", and
"Thank you Mr. Ferrari".
I am ruined for
life.
Regards,
Barry
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Dec 20 16:32:24 1998
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: shifter
alignment
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:32:54 -0700
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Our cars use a cable operated shifter.
They are
beefy cables though. The real problem in my opinion, or at least
part
of it, is the play in the bushings at the cable attachment points.
There is
simply too much play. A good Saturday morning project would be to
find
appropriately sized bushing and hand cut them to fit the shifter
assembly
perfectly. I'd bet this would greatly reduce the slop in
the
shifter. I plan to do this to mine within the next month or
so.
Regards,
Barry
> -----Original
Message-----
>
> Ron-a-roid wrote:
>
> > Is there any
possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a
> possible cause of
>
> some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in
>
the feel of the
> > engagement of the shifter in my 96 VR4,
especially in 3rd [snip]
>
> I just recently read
somewhere that our cars use a cable-operated
> shifter. Is this
true? Does this bear any significance to the problem
> at
hand? I have heard people complain that the cable operation is
> a
weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our car doesn't
> use
one. What is the (superior?) alternative in other sports
cars?
>
> Happy Holidays!
>
> --Errin
Humphrey
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 19:51:10 1998
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From: "Zentelis none"
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: Happy Holidrives
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:51:05 PST
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Happy Holidays to everyone :)
Santa still hasn't gotten
back to me about my Stealth
oh, if no one minds a question from an
amature, on a Twin Turbo, is an
intercooler recquired for each turbo
kits?
______________________________________________________
Get Your
Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec
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From: RPM Motorsports
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Subject:
Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
References:
<000001be2c66$6239e400$0201a8c0@mitspc.securitytechnologies.com>
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1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 68,000
3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: Fram
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations:
Will start ticking at around the 3000
Mile mark. But is much quieter than
with 10W-30
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 21:31:17 1998
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In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55
AM, you wrote:
<<1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 68,000
3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: Fram
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations:
Will start ticking at around the 3000
Mile mark. But is much quieter than
with 10W-30>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 20 23:20:25 1998
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 02:11:12
-0500
From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
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><1.
Vehicle:
1992 Stealth R/T TT
> 2. Current mileage:
72,900
> 3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand:
Mitsu
> 6.
Additives: Fuel
Additive: Redline SI-1 good for 5 tanks of gas. But once every 3000 miles
I use one bottle for one tank of gas. I hope to clear valve
sediments.
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations: Almost no ticking.
Only when cold and almost unaudible.
> Mile mark. But is much quieter than
with when I got it at 64,000 miles.
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil
Survey
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:36:01 -0700
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stealth-3000gt
1.
Vehicle:
1994 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 63,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: OEM
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations: Period ticking,
especially nearing oil change. Just
tore down the engine. Cross
hatch still on cylinder walls. All bearings
and mating/thrust surfaces
in perfect condition. Zero coking in oil return
lines.
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 02:06:24 1998
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From: "Bob
Forrest" <bf@bobforrest.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:43:36 -0800
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stealth-3000gt
1.
Vehicle:
1994 Stealth NT
2. Current mileage: 17,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
5. Filter brand:
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 3.5K miles
8.
Observations: Lifter tick driving home
from showroom; crankcase
was 1/2 qt low and tick lessened when it was topped
off, but continued
through break-in. Changed to Mobil 1 at 500 miles,
and tick disappeared was
never repeated. No oil burned ever, but went
through ~1/2 QT once running
at 120+ for about an hour...
Merry
Christmas, Folks!
Forrest
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM Eastern Standard
Time,
rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net writes:
<< 1.
Vehicle: 1991 3000GT
VR-4
2. Current mileage: 117500 (First 80K by prior owner)
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: Factory
6.
Additives: None
(Have used Marvel Mystery Oil)
7. Change frequency: 3000
Miles
8. Observations: >> Runs very well
Arty 91 VR-4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 05:11:08 1998
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1) Vehicle: 1992 Stealth TT
2) Mileage: 59,000
Miles
3) Oil Weight: 10w-30
4) Oil Brand: Mobil 1
5) Filter Brand:
OEM
6) Additives: None
7) Change Frequency: 3,000 Miles
8)
Observations: No lifter ticking. They were replaced at 48,000
miles under extended warranty due to tick.
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Dec 21 08:09:22 1998
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Message-ID:
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From:
"Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:10:55 -0700
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
1.
Vehicle:
92 RT/Turbo
2. Current mileage: 72,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Redline
5.
Filter brand: Mits OEM
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3-5K Miles
8.
Observations:
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 08:25:34 1998
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 08:23:45
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
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stealth-3000gt
Just had to reply ...sounds like a new engine Barry,
dispite the teeney weeney problem
: )
Darc
Barry E. King
wrote:
> 1.
Vehicle:
1994 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:
63,000
> 3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand: OEM
>
6. Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations: Period ticking,
especially nearing oil change. Just
> tore down the engine.
Cross hatch still on cylinder walls. All bearings
> and
mating/thrust surfaces in perfect condition. Zero coking in oil
return
> lines.
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 08:47:14 1998
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From: Ken Middaugh
<middaugh@omega.gat.com>
Organization: General Atomics - Fusion
Division
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
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1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
2. Current mileage: 85,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil brand:
Mobil 1
5. Filter brand: OEM
6. Additives: None. Previous owner said
he used slick 50, so I
performed an engine flush at my first oil change.
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8. Observations: Light
ticking at idle when first started. Goes away as
RPM increase.
More prone to ticking after 2000 miles on oil.
--
Ken
Middaugh
General Atomics
San Diego
(619) 455-4510
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 08:53:17 1998
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stealth-3000gt
hese are the specs
1.
Vehicle:
1994 Dodge Stealth tt
2. Current mileage: 10,000 (after new
shortblock)
3. Oil
weight: 10w-30
4. Oil
brand: Mobil 1
5.
Filter brand: Fram
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 2,000miles
8. Observations: No
oil loss. 60,000 miles on first shortblock, never any
oil
loss
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et: 11.6
Best mph: 121.58
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 09:44:10 1998
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From: "Michael
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To:
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1
#53
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 10:43:40 -0700
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------_=_NextPart_000_01BE2D09.725BE2C0
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Hello Everybody=20
I have recently acquired a new
vehicle. I picked up a stock =
91StealthTT
which is a far cry from
my last vehicle which was an S-10 so things =
have
become slightly more
complex to put it lightly. =20
I have been on this list for a couple of
months and I think that I =
would
like to put out a couple of questions of
my own for the experts to =
field.
The car is great however, I am having a
problem with smooth =
acceleration.
Whenever I put down a significant
amount of power around second or =
third
gear there seems to be a loss in
power. Also, hard acceleration off of =
the
line yields a slight
shudder in the rear of the vehicle. I would like =
this
acceleration
curve to be smooth from start to finish however I am =
really not
sure
what the problem may be. =20
I took the car to the dealer to have them
look at it and this is their
theory. The head covers are leaking a
small amount of oil and it is =
pooling
around the spark plug where they
meet the wires. Also mentioned, the =
wires
are oil soaked.
What's happening according to them is that, as the =
power
increases, the
spark frequency at each plug will increase. (obviously)
However, what
is happening is that as this increase occurs it =
eventually
becomes too
much and shorts the spark right to the block because the =
pooled
oil in
contact with the plug. Solution, fix the oil leak, new plug
=
wires
and give it a try. I personally found this whole explanation
a little, =
"out
there" and the dealer is not willing to say
100% if this will correct =
my
problem. =20
Either way, it's a job
that has to be done however what I would like to =
know
from the group is
whether or not anyone has seen a problem similar to =
this
or has other
theories on the matter. Do you agree with the dealer's
diagnosis or
does the source of this problem lie elsewhere. I think =
that it
may
be beneficial to mention that I live in Calgary, Alberta (That's in
Canada
boys) and the dealer doesn't see a lot of Stealth's especially
=
twin
turbos coming through the doors. Also as you may or may not
know the =
3000GT
is not available in Canada so the last time this dealer
sold the =
platform
was the end of 95 which in my books does not place
them on the expert =
and
experienced list. =20
Any feedback or
theories would be greatly appreciated.
mike
>
----------
> From: Team3S
>
Digest[SMTP:owner-stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com]
> Sent: 21
December, 1998 1:25 AM
> To: stealth-3000gt-digest@list.sirius.com
>
Subject: Team3S Digest V1 #53
>=20
>=20
> Team3S
Digest Monday, December 21
1998 Volume 01 : =
Number
>
053
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>
=
----------------------------------------------------------------------
>=20
>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:48:12 +0000
> From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Team3S: Fuel pump
question
>=20
> I'm still in the GT &%=E7 research thing and
nearly fall over the =
fuel pump
> I got
> from Brian. It is a
Nippon Denso pump with the description 5T11 and =
the
> number
>
195130-1020.
>=20
> Can someone please verify what kind of pump this
is and how much it =
flows
> ?
>=20
> Thanks in
advance,
> Roger
>=20
> - -----------------------
>
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
17:35:02 +0000
> From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Team3S: Little oil survey on our
cars / oil level
>=20
> Since I got the car in Feb94 (93 model) I
ran only synthetics in the =
car.
> At the
> beginning 10W-40,
then 5W-40 and now 5W-40 mixed with 10W-60. Also in =
the
> beginning I
used some snake oil like Slick 50 and Ceramica but =
stopped
>
after
> discussions as well as it was just too
expensive.
>=20
> As my car got the slight rebuild, I checked many
parts out :
>=20
> The oil lines where in perfect conditions and
there was no sign of =
any
> cristalized oil
visible.
>=20
> The cylinder walls looked very good and the mechanic
was surprised =
even
> after 3
> of the pistons broke. Very, very
low wear for 65k.
>=20
> Same ot the heads. There was no need to
grind them as measurment =
showed an
> absolutely plain
surface.
>=20
> The cams also show less wear then expected and after
cleaning the =
intake
> and the
> valves also these parts showed
lesser wear than expected.
>=20
> I run the bleeder valve with
0.75bars of boost peak (around 350hp =
dynoed)
> since
> June
1994 and therefore the car was used over the specs it was built =
for
>
some
> years. This does not lead me into the conclusion that snake oils
=
helped in
> any
> way but it says that they don't hurt as well.
The broken pistons =
where due
> to my
> ignorance and have
nothing to to with this.
>=20
> Back to the oil. I'm sure using very
good quality oil and changing it
> every
> 5000-7500km is the key to
the good condition the parts are in. =
Measuring
> the oil
> temp
showed up to 106=B0C on the dyno. Normal use showed around =
98=B0C
and
> less but
> I expect higher temps when driving for a long time
on the german =
autobahn
> (gulp). The cars came with Castrol 10W-40
Synthetics and I always =
stayed
> with it
> as I never had any
problem. As the synths came down in price I went =
to
>
5W-40
> due to the many cold-starts I had during the winter times. Also
null
> problemos.
> About 1 year ago I went to the Mobil 0W-40 for
the best cold start
> protection
> but then I often ran into getting
the oil-level light (just above the =
ASC
> ON
> light) on the
autobahn. Especially on speeds over 150mph as the =
streets
> went
up
> the hill the light came on. I immediatly lifted the throttle and the
=
light
> went
> off. Checking the warm oil level showed about
1/2 to 3/4 of the range
> between
> the marks then. I went back to
Castrol 5W-40 and never got this =
problem
> again
> ... until my
compression problem started to begin worse.
>=20
> Before the
rebuild I ran the car over it's limit and killed three =
pistons
> and
at
> least 4 rings. Some pressure went down to the crankcase due to this
=
and
> caused
> the oil cap to leak as well as the oil was
pressed into the intake =
through
> the
> crankcase ventilation.
This then caused alot oil deposits in the
> intercollers
> and it's
piping. Also the idle stepper motor got totally clogged as =
well
> as
the
> intake valves due to the damn oil. Now after the rebuild there's
=
still
> some oil
> around but, luckily, there's no oil steam
comming out the BOV anymore
> (uff,
> turbos are ok). As this
happend the oil level light came on very =
often at
> speeds
>
over 130mph so I decided not to go higher then until the problem got
>
fixed.
>=20
> BTW, during the rebuild we also exchanged the oil
level switch to be =
sure
> everything is alright. As I went to Germany
last week I speeded up to
> around
> 150mph as the damn light came
on again. I checked the oil level the =
night
> before
> and the
level was on 3/4 of the range so I expected no problem there. =
As I
>
drove
> home on friday the light came on at lower speeds until it appeared
at
> 140km/h
> (crusing speed here). I went into the next gas
station and got a =
bottle
> just to
> be sure I have enough oil
in the pan. I let the car idle for 2 =
minutes and
> then
>
checked the oil level. Nothing, nada, niente, empty ! I've checked =
what
I
> could
> see through the oil cap hole and saw enough (damn hot)
oil around. I
> filled the
> litre in and got close to the 3/4 mark
on the stick ! No light the =
rest of
> the
>
way.
>=20
> Yesterday, I made some miles and also speeded up a hill.
Tataaaa, the
> light came
> on again. I went home and filled up with
10W-60 Racing oil from =
Castrol.
> This
> because the mechanic
at Digit Power told me earlier that this is the =
fluid
> they
>
highly recommend for our high temp cars... espcially when the power
=
is
> cranked
> up. For winter use it's good to have a good cold
start oil and that's =
why
> I
> decided to "mix" the
stuff. I went for a ride, heated the engine up =
as
> good as
>
possible and made the hill tests. No problem since then :)
>=20
>
Well, the question arises if the oil-level switch also does anything
=
else
> than
> measure the oil level. I don't think it is
related to the oil =
temperature
> but
> who knows. Also I doubt
that it is related to the oil pressure as the
> meter
> always
showed a higher but good pressure on the autobahn. For me, my
>
experiences
> are that oils with 0W-40 are somewhat too thin for our cars
when =
getting
> into
> hard high temp conditions. Higher rated
oils are much better for our =
cars
> but
> not so great for
winter conditions.
>=20
> Finally, a wide range seems to be better,
say 5W-50 or so (I think =
Mobil 1
> has
> one) but I'll use the
10W-60 in the summer and mix it with the 5W-40 =
in
> the
>
winter as Castrol does not have a high range fluid. For me it
=
currently
> works
> good and it seems that the new stuff in the
engine lowered the =
ticking
> sound as
>
well.
>=20
> Regards to all,
> Roger
>=20
> -
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
10:05:01 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Fuel pump
question
>=20
> Roger,
>=20
> I suggest contacting Road
Race Engineering (RRE) at
> mailto:sales@roadraceengineering.com
specifying the part number and =
color
> of
> the cap on the
pump. Sometimes they are slow at responding so bug =
them a
>
little.
>=20
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
>
Barry
>=20
>=20
> > -----Original Message-----
>
>
> > I'm still in the GT &%=E7 research thing and nearly fall
over the
> > fuel pump I got
> > from Brian. It is a Nippon
Denso pump with the description 5T11
> > and the number
> >
195130-1020.
> >
> > Can someone please verify what kind of
pump this is and how much
> > it flows ?
> >
> >
Thanks in advance,
> > Roger
> >
> >
-----------------------
> > Roger Gerl, Switzerland
>=20
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
09:08:44 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Oil survey (was:
Little oil survey on our cars)
>=20
> - -----Original
Message-----
> From: R.G. [mailto:robby@swissonline.ch]
> Sent:
Sunday, December 20, 1998 9:35 AM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Team3S: Little oil survey on our
cars / oil level
>=20
> <snip>
> Regards to all,
>
Roger
>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Roger...
>=20
> The subject line of your e-mail indicates a survey,
which is a good =
idea.
> I'll collect the data and republish to the
group after two weeks. =
Anyone
> interested in participating is
welcome. Here's the questions I =
propose,
> just
> replace my
data with yours:
>=20
> 1. Vehicle: 1995 VR4
> 2. Oil weight:
5-50w
> 3. Oil brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand:
OEM
> 5. Additives: None
> 6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or
six months
> 7. Observations: I changed from fossil oil to synthetic
when
> I purchased the car 18 months ago. Aside from what I believe is a
=
"normal"
> lifter tick (goes away at any rpm above 1500),
I've had no problems. =
I've
> tried a number of additives over the
years, and can't say I've =
noticed any
> improvement or degradation in
performance. I will point out, that =
with old
> V8 beaters, STP oil
treatment adds enough extra viscosity to prevent =
oil
> slipping
around worn rings and valves (symptom - blue smoke out the
> exhaust).
I've never had the oil light come on (as Roger described), =
but
>
my
> opportunities to drive above 100mph are
limited.=20
>=20
> Looking forward...Chris
>=20
>
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
>=20
> 1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
09:26:55 -0800
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil survey (was: Little oil survey on our cars)
>=20
> >
Chris...submission
> >
> > 1.
Vehicle:
1992 Stealth TT
> > 2. Oil
weight: 10-30w
>
> 3. Oil brand:
Mobil 1 (synthetic)
> > 4. Filter
brand: Mitsu, Fram, etc.
> >
5. Additives: None
now (Slick 50 for 4 changes)
> > 6. Change frequency:
Every 3K miles or six months
> > 7.
Observations:
Synthetic Mobil 1 is used =
exclusively,
> (I was informed
> >
the initial breakin period of 1000 kms was done on Quaker fossil.)
=
No
> problems noted
> > with exception of standard ticking,
which has been alleviated for =
some
> time by using
> > an
oil flush (Gunk) at last oil change. Little opportunity exists =
here
>
to drive at
> > high speeds for any lenght of time. Were that availed
perhaps a =
5-50 or
> 5-60 might be
> > the choice I would
option. 10-30, however has been just fine, with =
5-30
> used if
winter
> > is colder than normal, here on the mild west coast. Oh, just
over =
40,000
> kms on the
> > car.
>=20
>
Darcy
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
19:07:23 +0000
> From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
survey
>=20
> Thanks Chris .)
>=20
> > 1.
Vehicle:
1993 VR4 (Euro Version)
> > 2. Oil
weight: 5W-40 /
10W-60
> > 3. Oil
brand: Castrol RS
(synthetic)
> > 4. Filter
brand: Mitsu
> > 5.
Additives: none now
(Slick 50, Ceramica in the first 2
> years)
> > 6. Change
frequency: Every 5K - 7.5k km
> > 7.
Observations: =20
>=20
> >
Car came with 10W-40 from Castrol and I used over the years until
=
5W-40
> came
> > out. I also used Slick 50 and Ceramica
snake oil and I cannot say =
if it
> did
> > anything good. At
least it did nothing bad as the parts looked very =
good
> > when
inspected during the rebuild. No deposits nor any expected =
wear.
>
> Had the oil light comming on with 0W-40 Mobil 1 at very high speeds
>
(+150)
> > and also with 5W-40 as the peisons were gone. With 10W-60
(or mixed =
with
> > 5W-40 in winter) the problem dissapeared.
Castrol 10W-60 is =
recommended
> by
> > the local tuning shop
that prepares Porsche TwinTurbos. Ticking =
noise is
> also
>
> better with the "thicker" oil.
> =20
> -
-----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
12:11:26 -0600
> From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: oil survey/ oil level
>=20
> R.G. wrote:=20
>
> 1 year ago went Mobil 0W-40 for best cold start protection
> > but
then often getting oil-level light, especially speed >150mph
=
driving
>=20
> > up hill. I lifted throttle, light went off.
Checking warm oil level
> showed 1/2-3/4 between
> > marks.
Back to Castrol 5W-40 never got problem again
> > until compression
problem started to get worse.
> > Before rebuild ran car over its
limit, killed three pistons=20
> > 4 rings. After rebuild still
oil around but no oil steam coming =
out BOV
> anymore.=20
> >
As this happend oil level light came on often at speed >130mph.
> >
During rebuild exchanged oil level switch. Last week at
> >
150mph light came on again; oil level night before 3/4.=20
> > light
came on at lower speeds until it appeared at 140km/h. I went =
into
>
gas station,
> > let car idle 2 minutes, then oil level checked empty!
I looked=20
> > through oil cap hole, saw enough oil. I filled a litre,
got 3/4 =
mark on
> stick!=20
> > Yesterday, speeded up hill,
light came on. Filled 10W-60 Racing
> Castrol, heated engine
good
> > made the hill tests. No problem since then :)
Question: if oil-lev=
el
> switch does anything else than
>
> measure oil level. I doubt related to oil pressure as meter
> >
always showed higher good pressure on autobahn. My experiences
>
> are that 0W-40 are too thin for our cars when=20
> > hard high
temp conditions. Higher rated oils are much better for =
our
> cars
but
> > not so great for winter condition. Wide range seems
better, say =
5W-50
> (I think Mobil 1 has
> > one) but I'll
use 10W-60 in summer, mix 5W-40 winter as Castrol =
doesn't
> have high
range fluid.=20
> > New stuff in engine lowered ticking
sound.=20
> > Roger
>=20
> Roger:
> The oil level
switch COULD still reflect oil pressure; if oil in pan =
is
> very low,
and pump is intermittently suckng air (oil pressure near =
zero
>
transiently) the oil pressure GUAGE won't reflect this well because
=
it
> has such a slow rate of change; needle takes awhile to get to
new
> values. This is like a gas guage on some cars, which change
SLOWLY =
so
> as not to alarm people with transient changes due to
hills changing
> angle of fuel in tank etc but give a time-average
value. The oil =
LIGHT
> may reflect instant values, and could
have sensitivity to pick up =
very
> transient oil pressure loss such
as one sees with oilpan near-empty. =
>=20
> I don't know
if it is tied into oil pressure, though. Sounds like =
you
> are
pumping alot of oil to the top end of the motor (valvecovers), =
and
>
getting caught up in crank windage at sustained high speeds. You
=
could
> consider 1) having a deeper oilpan made up, and extending the
oil =
pump
> pickup downward to suck off the deeper sump. Making
about 2" (50mm)
> deeper would hold another liter or more, and could
solve your =
problem.=20
> MUCH deeper makes the pump have to suck up
against more of a vacuum
> drawing the oil up, so I would not go TOO
deep. Since you are so
> serious about your car, and do alot of
highspeed driving, this would =
be
> the best way. Alternatives
(not as good but functional) would =
include
> 2) an oil pressure
reservoir, that will send pressurized oil into =
system
> anytime
pressure drops/sucks air (commercially available) but this =
means
>
YOU STILL SUCK AIR; and 3) overfilling the crankcase (Full mark plus
>
1/4-1/2 more or so). This works and can be fine; if indeed your
oil
> level is below zero/causing oil level light WHEN DRIVING, then
=
clearly
> the crankcase is NOT OVERFULL AT SPEED, so overfilling AT
STOP would =
NOT
> mean the crank is plowing through crankcase oil way
way up when
> driving--the oil is someplace you have no control over and
must
> compensate for by overfilling AT REST.
>=20
> I agree
with heavier oil for heavy load driving. I have always used
> Mobil
1 15W50 all year round including Wisconsin winters; no problems
> with
bearings etc. Synthetics flow way better, even a 15W synthetic
>
flows better than a 10W standard in supercold.
>=20
> Hope this
gives some ideas!
> Jack Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
10:39:34 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
>=20
> Howdy folks...
>=20
> Darc made a good
point that could affect the data, so I added another
> field
> for
"current mileage".
>=20
> THANKS!!!
>=20
>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>=20
>
1. Vehicle: 1995 VR4
> 2. Current mileage: 35K
> 2. Oil weight:
5-50w
> 3. Oil brand: Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
> 4. Filter brand:
OEM
> 5. Additives: None
> 6. Change frequency: Every 3K miles or
six months
> 7. Observations: =09
>=20
>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>=20
>
Looking forward...Chris
>=20
> "Friends don't let friends ride
with me"
>=20
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
13:37:58 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports
<rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
Fumes
>=20
> For everyone who's running straight exhausts, and
perhaps EGR's =
blocked
> off... Is your exhaust smell exceptionally
noxious? I've noticed =
mines
> is getting to be particularly noxious
compared to some other straight
> flowing exhausts, that I've
done.
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
10:43:29 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Exhaust
Fumes
>=20
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: RPM
Motorsports [mailto:rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net]
> Sent: Sunday, December
20, 1998 10:38 AM
> To: Team3S
> Subject: Team3S: Exhaust
Fumes
>=20
>=20
> For everyone who's running straight
exhausts, and perhaps EGR's =
blocked
> off... Is your exhaust smell
exceptionally noxious? I've noticed =
mines
> is getting to be
particularly noxious compared to some other straight
> flowing exhausts,
that I've done.
>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Rumor had it that a catless system would smell like rotten eggs. I
=
still
> have my precats, but I'm running a straight 3" all the
way to the =
bumper.
> No
> unusual odors at this
point.
>=20
> Looking forward...Chris
>=20
>
"Friends don't let friends ride with me"
>=20
> 1995
Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
13:41:47 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports
<rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on
ice
>=20
> Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the snow
cause more of =
the
> sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the philosophy of
tires behind snow, =
the
> skinnier the tire, the better it runs on
snow due less area on ice?
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
13:49:49 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports
<rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: shifter
alignment
>=20
> I've found that the best shifter feeling to me in
my 1991 is to =
switch a
> 94 shifter into the car and cut the bottom
of the shifter off. and
> reweld the eyelet a little higher to the same
location as the stock =
91
> shifter. There is actually a difference
between the 91-93 and 94+
> shifters. The 91's are stupendously high as
compared to the 94's, but
> the 94's have a longer shaft at the
bottom. Is the 94 chassis lower
> below the shifter?? I tried
straight swapping the 94 shifter and I =
found
> that it would go into
all the gears except 2nd, where it would clunk =
and
> not go it. I
found this problem to be that the 94 has a longer base =
on
> the
shifter, which actually hits the chassis, specifically where the
> chassis
creates a groove for the shifter to go through. If you look
> underneath
the shifter, it looks like there's a indentation for the
> shifter to go
through when you shift into second. But once I swapped
> shifters, I had
much shorter height without the close pattern of a =
short
>
shifter. 2nd gear didn't seem as clunky, but I still don't
=
understand
> why, the cable throw shouldn't be
different.
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
12:57:11 -0600
> From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Oil survey - revised
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1993 VR4
> 2. Current mileage: 49,000
> 3.
Oil weight: 15W-50
>
4. Oil brand: Mobil
1 (synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:
OEM
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: Every 3K miles=20
> 8.
Observations: No problems. Very
little to no prob with =
lifter
> tick. Stands up to hard
use.
> =20
> Jack Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
10:59:23 -0800
> From: Chris Winkley
<cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Fuel
cut
>=20
> Well, it's finally happened. The last couple days we've
had BEAUTIFUL
> weather here in the PNW, so Beastie has been out from
under cover. =
Having
> just finished the exhaust a few weeks ago,
along with a BOV and
> bored/polished throttle body, I have better flow
than ever before. =
The
> turbos spool quickly and stay there longer.
Now, for the first time =
ever,
> I've had that "wonderful"
fuel cut experience. You folks are correct,
> nearly
> slammed my
head into the steering wheel. The engine recovers quickly, =
but
> this
is NOT a good thing under WOT (or race) conditions. A couple
>
questions
> for those who've already been here:
>=20
> 1. Will
replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve this?
> 2. What's the value of
a "fuel cut defencer" device?
> 3. I know there's been debate
about the various devices that can be =
run in
> line with the stock
ECU, but I noticed (in the last issue of Max =
Speed)
> that
>
Jet Industries will now remap the stock ECU to accommodate the
=
specific
> mods
> that I have. While this isn't cheap ($600)
it's less expensive than =
some
> of
> the other options. Clearly
the drawback is that it's a one time =
thing, no
> adjustment unless
it's reprogrammed again. Not ideal for the tuner =
who
> wants
>
to play with the settings, but if they can optimize, it would be good
=
for
> those who don't want to tweak regularly. Has anyone given them
a try
> recently? Ideas? Opinions?
>=20
> Looking
forward...Chris
>=20
> "Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
>=20
> 1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
13:25:33 -0600
> From: xwing <xwing@execpc.com>
> Subject: Re:
Team3S: Fuel cut
>=20
> Chris Winkley wrote: [snips]
> >
finished exhaust, BOV, bored/polished throttle body, better flow
=
than
> ever.=20
> > turbos spool quickly, stay longer.
For the first time,
> > I've had fuel cut, nearly slammed my head into
steering wheel. =
engine
> recovers quickly, but
> > this NOT
good under WOT. questions:=20
> > 1. Will replacing my injectors and
fuel pump solve this?
>=20
> No. Fuel pump has absolutely
NOTHING TO DO with fuelcut. Is however =
a
> wise investment if
going faster than fuelcut-zone. Injectors alone =
will
> just
richen up mix, car will still fuelcut but will be richer doing =
it
>
and run like crap because you have not altered the endproduct of fuel
>
management programming to compensate for the larger
injectors.
>=20
> > 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut
defencer" device?
>=20
> Don't know. IF it worked might
be relatively poor band-aid =
(leanout).
>=20
> > 3. various
devices that can be run inline with stock ECU; last =
issue of
> Max
Speed
> > Jet Industries will remap stock ECU to accommodate specific
mods
> > I have $600; less expensive than some other options. Clear
=
drawback: one
> time thing, no
> > adjustment unless
reprogrammed again. Not ideal for tuner who wants
> > settings, but if
they optimize, would be good for
> > those who don't want to tweak. Has
anyone given them a try =
recently?=20
> > 1995 Glacier Pearl White
VR4
>=20
> With '95 you "can't use" a VPC (in quotes
because no one has said how
> and printed it, but I am pretty sure it
could be used...different =
wiring
> harness is issue, but only 3 or 4
wires need to be intercepted/tapped
> into.) =20
> I have heard
through history that Jet Industries just puts some =
sticker
> on the
stock computer box, gives you a couple additional parts which
>
essentially vent the wastegate line some like a bleeder valve so
=
higher
> boost, thus better performance; charging exorbitant fee
while ACTING
> like they hacked into your computer which they did
NOT. Whether they
> just "got religion" and suddenly are
reputable, hired a computer =
whiz,
> and now TRULY, REALLY,
check-really-IS-in-the-mail-THIStime _DO_ do a
> real and worthwhile
COMPUTER mod is the question. Dunno. Don't =
wanna
> try,
myself...
>=20
> For 94+ the Apexi AFC will work. Best
technique is to get 550cc
> injectors (or 720's will work with VPC+GCC if
91-93; 720 might work =
with
> AFC), because you fool the computer into
thinking you are flowing =
less
> and less air, the larger the
injectors you use and the more you "lean
> out" the VPC/GCC or
the APexi AFC to compensate for the larger
> injectors. I have never
fuelcut with VPC/GCC/720cc injectors. With
> 550's it was almost
never.
>=20
> TRE MASC also works/worked, but apparently they are
not truly in
> business anymore...?
>=20
> Jack
Tertadian
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
20:43:38 +0000
> From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: AWD on
ice
>=20
> > Wouldn't the fact that running 275 tires in the snow
cause more of =
the
> > sliding effect than AWD. Isn't the
philosophy of tires behind snow, =
the
> > skinnier the tire, the
better it runs on snow due less area on ice?
>=20
> In fact the
smaller the tire the better traction in snow. But on ice =
the
>
story
> is different and the wideness of the tire doesn't play a lot in
that =
case.
> The
> thread design and the rubber plays a more
important rule. On another =
hand
> the
> wider the tire the
larger the area each tire has contact to the =
surface.
> Therefore the
force (pounds per square-inch) is samller and the tire =
tends
>
more
> to "slide". This is theoretical stuff but when you go to
a prepared
> sliding
> track you'll have to feel in your back what's
going on :)
>=20
> Roger,
>
icey-Switzerland
>=20
> - -----------------------
> Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale
Rosso)
>=20
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
21:21:33 +0000
> From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Fuel
cut
>=20
> Jack said everything and I add just my (bad) experiences
here.
>=20
> First, what are all the mods you're having now and what
fuel do you =
run ?
>=20
> I guess you've pushed boost up to
around 1.2bars and plus. Fuel cut
> appears when
> the ECU jumps off
its internal fuel map. Before this you'll normally =
feel
> a
>
hesitation as it retards the timing when some of the fuel values go =
out
of
> the
> map (timing is retarded when knock appears!!). On my car
fuel cut =
appeared
> at
> 1.25bars but some hesitation was
feelable around 1.22bars peak. =
Therefore
> I'm
> very sure
you'll also have bad knock around !
>=20
> > > 1. Will
replacing my injectors and fuel pump solve this?
>=20
> Jack said it
all :)
>=20
> > > 2. What's the value of a "fuel cut
defencer" device?
>=20
> No, we don't have a "fuel cut
defencer" device like those for the =
Toyotas
> (MR2,
>
Supras). These cars do have a boost pressure sensor that reads real
=
values
> and
> uses the signal in the ECU. This can be tweaked
by thinking the ECU =
that
> there's
> less boost. The same way
can be done like Jack described for the =
Apexi
> AFC. I
> got it
because I thought it is a good idea to increase fuel where the
>
fuel-cut
> appeard. WRONG, because the fuel cut is related to knock and
maxing =
out
> the
> injectors. After installing the AFC I was
able to lean the mixture =
out and
> fuel-cut disappeard. Of course it
did as I tweaked the ECU thinking =
that
> there's
> less air and
therefore less fuel is given. As I did not install =
larger
>
injectors
> I ran into the danger that the mixture was too lean. On the
dyno we =
runned
> the
> car under full load at 5600 where fuel
cut appeared and we were able =
to
> lean it
> out but were still
in the safe area. So I thought I'm fine ...
>=20
> .. until we found
out where knock appeard ! We had to reduce boost to
> 1.05bars
> to
prevent knock and therefore any fuel-cut defencing is not necessary=
>
anymore.
>=20
> I therefore highly recommend to check this are
because an engine =
rebuild
> will be
> your next step. Just
adding too much fuel to cool down the combustion
> chamber
> may
help but does not solve the knock problem. Higher boost simply =
also
>
means
> higher octane level !
>=20
> For the Jet thing they
have a very bad reputation like Jack said. The =
ECU
> program can only
be changed by adding another dautherboard and =
EPROMS.
> Then
the
> program can be altered. There's also a guy in Australia that says he
=
does
> something to the ECU and for only around Aussie$ 800. Well
nobody =
really
> knows
> as these guys of course do not tell the
trick. I've got the G-Force =
ECU
> with the
> dautherboard and
it's really alot of work. You can get it for around =
$850
>
but
> still does not cure your knock thing.
>=20
> > I have
never fuelcut with VPC/GCC/720cc injectors. With
> > 550's it was
almost never.
>=20
> Of course, Jack runned racing gas or used
octane booster. Another =
thing
> that
> helps to prevent knock
is to reduce backpressure in the exhaust =
manifold
> that is
>
caused by the turbos.
>=20
> Just don't go the risky way as I did !
you can find the pics of my =
rebuild
> the
> proken pistons on
my website.
>=20
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
> 93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
>=20
> Visit
my homepage under:
=
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
>=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
13:00:02 -0800
> From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
> Subject:
Team3S: Revised Oil Survey
>=20
> All:
>=20
> My 2 hp's
worth ....
> =20
>
=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1994 R/T
> 2. Current mileage: 72K
> 3. Oil
weight: 10-40w (Dino)
Since birth
> 4. Oil
brand:
Quaker
> 5. Filter brand:
OEM/Fram every other oil change
> 6.
Additives:
Absolutely None
> 7. Change frequency: Every 2.5K
miles
> 8. Observations: Lifter tick only when car sits for more
than
> 4-5 days without being driven. Always goes
> away after
the first mile or so of driving.
> Came up short at one oil change by
almost a
> 1/2 quart. Found an undertightened oil filter
>
caused the problem (followed the streak to the
>
source).
>=20
>=20
> Rich
> Emerald Green 94 R/T
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
22:35:15 +0000
> From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
> Subject: Team3S: HKS SBOV
setting
>=20
> I just feel that the BOV opens too early. I've turned
the screw in =
(nut
> fully
> yet) but it didn't changed a
lot.
>=20
> The beahivour is that I normally drive around and shift
normally, the
> thing
> works good. But with cruise control on ,when
the throttle is open and =
goes
> to
> almost closing, it just
feels like a short misfire then. This means =
when
> the
>
trottle will be closed (not fully) slowely then everything is fine.
=
But
> doing
> this more quickly (as the cruise control does) it
feels like =
something hit
> me.
> For me the BOV opens to fast
at a very low difference, releasing some
> boost and
> then closes
immediatly causing the boost comming back. Does anyone =
have a
>
good
> way how to set the BOV correctly ??
>=20
> Thanks,
Roger
> - -----------------------
> Roger Gerl, Switzerland
>
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
17:16:25 -0500
> From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Oil
Survey
>=20
> These are the specs
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1993 3KGT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage: 200 (since
rebuild)
> 3. Oil
weight: 10-40w (Dino)
Valvoline
> 4. Oil
brand:
Valvoline
> 5. Filter brand:
Purolator
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 1st change after 150
miles
> 8. Observations: No oil loss. Oil in I/C subsystem seems
to
> have dried up.
>=20
> After about 2000 miles, I will
change to my regular old Mobil-1 =
15W50.
>=20
> -
-Bob
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
14:27:12 -0800
> From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
<errin@u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
survey
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1994 VR4
> 2. Current mileage: 34,000
(6k miles of ownership)
> 3. Oil
weight:
10W-30
> 4. Oil
brand:
Mobil 1 Synthetic
> 5. Filter
brand:
OEM
> 6.
Additives:
None (about to try some Gunk)
> 7. Change frequency: Every 3K miles
(3 changes so far)
> 8.
Observations: Little to no
lifter tick. When it arises, =
it
>
usually
>
goes away after a short warmup and
> slight
blip
>
of the throttle. The other day it =
was
> ticking
quite
>
a bit, but it went away when I =
opened
> the hood!
>=20
>
Errin Humphrey
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
14:27:17 -0800
> From: "Errin D. Humphrey"
<errin@u.washington.edu>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: shifter
alignment
>=20
> Ron-a-roid wrote:
>=20
> > Is there
any possibility that the shifters in the 3k is a possible =
cause
>
of
> > some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident
in the =
feel of
> the
> > engagement of the shifter in
my 96 VR4, especially in 3rd [snip]
>=20
> I just
recently read somewhere that our cars use a cable-operated
>
shifter. Is this true? Does this bear any significance to the
=
problem
> at hand? I have heard people complain that the cable
operation is
> a weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed that our car
doesn't
> use one. What is the (superior?) alternative in other
sports cars?
>=20
> Happy Holidays!
>=20
> - --Errin
Humphrey
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
17:23:30 -0600
> From: "Steven A. File"
<sfile@usa.net>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
>
Here's both of my cars:
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1997 3KGT VR-4 (pure stock)
> 2. Current mileage:
5850
> 3. Oil
weight: 10-30w
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil One
(Synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:
Mitsu OEM
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: Every four months
> 8.
Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 500
> miles to
Castrol
> 10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles. Have had car
=
since
> new,
> bought August 1997. Valve tapping noise until
changed to Mobil One. =
Air
> conditioner compressor replaced last
October due to clicking noise =
that
> sounded a lot like lifter
tapping--helped dramatically (see below). =
Took
> car
> on its
first overnight road trip this weekend (about 350 miles) and =
got 36
>
miles per gallon of gasoline (no air conditioning) averaging 85 mph
=
on
> open
> road. Car driven only on sunny
weekends.
>=20
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1998 3KGT SOHC
> 2. Current mileage:
28,950
> 3. Oil
weight: 10-30w
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil One
(Synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:
Mitsu OEM
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: Every 5,000 miles or two
months
> 8. Observations: No oil loss. Changed original oil at 525
>
miles to Castrol
> 10-30w (dino), then Mobil One 10/30w at 2500 miles.
Valve lifters =
replaced
> at 2100 miles last March due to excessive
noise--was later found to =
be the
> air conditioner compressor clutch
making a clicking noise whenever =
the air
> was turned off. Have had
car since new, bought December 1997. Slight =
valve
> tapping noise
until changed to Mobil One. Daily driver.
>=20
>=20
> Steve
File
> mailto:sfile@usa.net
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
17:27:19 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
> Subject: Team3S: OT: 550
Maranello
>=20
> I just got back from a driving my friend's newly
acquired 550 =
Maranello.
>=20
> There are no words that I can
put together to adequately describe =
this
> car.
> All I can say
is "Wow", "Sweet", and "Thank you Mr.
Ferrari".
>=20
> I am ruined for
life.
>=20
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
>
Barry
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
17:32:54 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: shifter
alignment
>=20
> Our cars use a cable operated
shifter.
>=20
> They are beefy cables though. The real problem
in my opinion, or at =
least
> part of it, is the play in the bushings
at the cable attachment =
points.
> There is simply too much
play. A good Saturday morning project would =
be
> to
>
find appropriately sized bushing and hand cut them to fit the shifter
>
assembly perfectly. I'd bet this would greatly reduce the slop in
=
the
> shifter. I plan to do this to mine within the next month
or so.
>=20
>=20
> Regards,
>=20
>
Barry
>=20
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
>
> Ron-a-roid wrote:
> >
> > > Is there any possibility
that the shifters in the 3k is a
> > possible cause of
> >
> some of the trany failures? I've not been real confident in
>
> the feel of the
> > > engagement of the shifter in my 96
VR4, especially in 3rd =
[snip]
> >
> > I just
recently read somewhere that our cars use a cable-operated
> >
shifter. Is this true? Does this bear any significance to the
=
problem
> > at hand? I have heard people complain that the
cable operation is
> > a weak spot in the Eclipse, but I had assumed
that our car doesn't
> > use one. What is the (superior?)
alternative in other sports cars?
> >
> > Happy
Holidays!
> >
> > --Errin Humphrey
>=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
19:51:05 PST
> From: "Zentelis none"
<zentelis@hotmail.com>
> Subject: Team3S: Happy
Holidrives
>=20
> Happy Holidays to everyone :)
> Santa still
hasn't gotten back to me about my Stealth
>=20
> oh, if no one minds
a question from an amature, on a Twin Turbo, is =
an=20
> intercooler
recquired for each turbo kits?
>=20
>
______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private,
Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
00:28:20 -0500
> From: RPM Motorsports
<rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:
68,000
> 3. Oil weight:
15W-50
> 4. Oil
brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand:
Fram
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations:
Will start ticking at around the 3000
> Mile mark. But is much quieter
than with 10W-30
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
00:30:45 EST
> From: VR4Power@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Re:
Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM,
you wrote:
>=20
> <<1.
Vehicle:
1991 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:
68,000
> 3. Oil weight:
15W-50
> 4. Oil
brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand:
Fram
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations:
Will start ticking at around the 3000
> Mile mark. But is much quieter
than with 10W-30>>
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
02:11:12 -0500
> From: josesini <josesini@engin.umich.edu>
>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil Survey
>=20
> ><1.
Vehicle:
1992 Stealth R/T TT
> > 2. Current mileage:
72,900
> > 3. Oil
weight: 15W-50
>
> 4. Oil brand:
Mobil 1
> > 5. Filter brand:
Mitsu
> > 6.
Additives: Fuel
Additive: Redline SI-1 good for 5 =
tanks of
> gas. But once
every 3000 miles I use one bottle for one tank of gas. =
I
> hope to
clear valve sediments.
> > 7. Change frequency: 3000
Miles
> > 8. Observations:
Almost no ticking. Only when cold and =
almost
>
unaudible.
> > Mile mark. But is much quieter than with when I got it
at 64,000 =
miles.
> >
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
00:36:01 -0700
> From: "Barry E. King"
<beking@home.com>
> Subject: RE: Team3S: Oil
Survey
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1994 3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage:
63,000
> 3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand: OEM
>
6. Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8.
Observations: Period ticking,
especially nearing oil =
change.
> Just
> tore down the
engine. Cross hatch still on cylinder walls. All
=
bearings
> and mating/thrust surfaces in perfect condition.
Zero coking in oil
> return
> lines.
>=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998
23:43:36 -0800
> From: "Bob Forrest"
<bf@bobforrest.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
1994 Stealth NT
> 2. Current mileage:
17,000
> 3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
> 4.
Oil brand: Mobil 1
(synthetic)
> 5. Filter brand:
OEM
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: Every 3.5K miles
> 8.
Observations: Lifter tick driving home
from showroom; =
crankcase
> was 1/2 qt low and tick lessened when it
was topped off, but =
continued
> through break-in. Changed to
Mobil 1 at 500 miles, and tick =
disappeared
> was
> never
repeated. No oil burned ever, but went through ~1/2 QT once
=
running
> at 120+ for about an hour...
>=20
> Merry
Christmas, Folks!
>=20
> Forrest
>=20
>=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
07:29:11 EST
> From: Aso8@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
>=20
> In a message dated 12/21/98 12:29:55 AM Eastern
Standard Time,
> rpmmotorsport@adelphia.net writes:
>=20
>
<< 1. Vehicle: 1991
3000GT VR-4
> 2. Current mileage: 117500 (First 80K by prior
owner)
> 3. Oil
weight:
10W-30
> 4. Oil
brand: Mobil
1
> 5. Filter brand:
Factory
> 6.
Additives: None
(Have used Marvel Mystery Oil)
> 7. Change
frequency: 3000 Miles
> 8. Observations:
>> Runs very well
> Arty 91 VR-4
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
08:10:09 EST
> From: TTurboAWD@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
>=20
> 1) Vehicle: 1992 Stealth TT
> 2) Mileage: 59,000
Miles
> 3) Oil Weight: 10w-30
> 4) Oil Brand: Mobil 1
> 5)
Filter Brand: OEM
> 6) Additives: None
> 7) Change Frequency: 3,000
Miles
> 8) Observations: No lifter ticking. They were replaced at
48,000=20
>
miles under extended warranty due to tick.
> For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is
> http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
> ------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec
1998 09:10:55 -0700
> From: "Jeffrey Young"
<jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
> Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
>=20
> 1.
Vehicle:
92 RT/Turbo
> 2. Current mileage: 72,000
>
3. Oil weight: 10W-30
> 4.
Oil brand:
Redline
> 5. Filter brand: Mits
OEM
> 6.
Additives:
None
> 7. Change frequency: 3-5K Miles
> 8.
Observations:
>=20
> Jeffrey
> 92 RT/Turbo
>
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
>=20
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our
web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>=20
> For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998
08:23:45 -0800
> From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
> Subject: Re: Team3S:
Oil Survey
>=20
> Just had to reply ...sounds like a new engine
Barry, dispite the =
teeney
> weeney problem
> :
)
>=20
> Darc
>=20
> Barry E. King
wrote:
>=20
> > 1.
Vehicle:
1994 3000GT VR-4
> > 2. Current mileage:
63,000
> > 3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
>
> 4. Oil brand:
Mobil 1
> > 5. Filter brand:
OEM
> > 6.
Additives:
None
> > 7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
> >
8. Observations: Period ticking,
especially nearing oil =
change.
> Just
> > tore down the
engine. Cross hatch still on cylinder walls. All
>
bearings
> > and mating/thrust surfaces in perfect condition.
Zero coking in =
oil
> return
> > lines.
> >
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>=20
>=20
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
>
------------------------------
>=20
> End of Team3S Digest V1
#53
> ***************************
>=20
> For unsubscribe info
and FAQ, see our web page at
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>=20
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QjE3NzM1NjhCMzUzRDAxMUEyNjgwMDgwNUY5QTg4NUUwMjFCQjY3N0BaRVVTPgD1FQ==
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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From: Satya Palani
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
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1.
Vehicle:
1992 3000GT
2. Current mileage: 95,000
3. Oil
weight: 10W-30
4. Oil
brand: Redline
(synthetic)
5. Filter brand:
OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 5-6k miles
8.
Observations: Seems like Mobil 1 is
the most popular oil on this
list. Is it the price, or some miraculous
aspect about it? Never tried
Mobil 1, but have always been happy with
Redline's product.
--
Satya
Palani
satya@gho.st
http://www.longshadows.com
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 12:19:39
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Michael;
I
have rerouted my response to your questions as a"forward" at
this
point, as I suspect my first response was screened out, perhaps
fearing
it as a reply to your entire Digest. Had I done that, (and I
didn't
)members would have suffered through the posting of the
digest
twice..reasons for not doing so, deliniated
below.
Darc
--------------E6E6CDF9983FFC1D99056BFD
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Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 10:30:15 -0800
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Reply-To:
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
Organization: West Coast Ethnographics
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: RE: Team3S Digest V1
#53
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<B1773568B353D011A26800805F9A885E021BB677@ZEUS>
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Yo
bro;
When you want to resond to any item on the list, you will have to
manually
select and input "the subject" (or ask Roger for advice on
how to bypass this
with a digest subscription). Simply hitting the respond
button, reposts the
entire digest along with your question. Unlike other
lists, we do not have a lot
of traffic, and try to keep it to serious 3S
technology...so you might simply
consider unsubscribing from the digest
version and subscribing to a regular post
version. Reposting an entire digest
is not advised.
About your your problem...add some octane boost for
starters to insure your gas
is up to snuff. Then make certain you always have
high octane when you fill.
Assuming it's not gas, you could disconnect your
battery (positive terminal) for
5 or 10 minutes, then reconnect and start the
computer learn cycle again. I t
may help...try slow acceleration from 2000
rpm up, in 2nd and 3rd gears...4th
if you have open roads, to
perform this leartn cycle. Give the computer time to
learn these parameters.
Then, when you are satisfied this is input, try a WOT
acceleration in
the same. If the problem still is there, try it a few more times
at the slow
acceleration, and then WOT again. If none of this helps, I would get
the leak
fixed, as you'll have to do that anyway. If the wires have been
saturated for
a long time and cannot be cleaned, you'll have to replace them as
well.
A cheap wire option might be a recently hammered TT at a wrecking yard,
if
the Christmas season has impacted your pocket change...perferably one with
low
kms. That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm
sure other
team members may have other suggestions.
Darc
92
Stealth TT Victoria
BC
--------------E6E6CDF9983FFC1D99056BFD--
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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Date: Mon, 21
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From: "R.G."
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Michael,
First, an admin advice, please never reply
the whole message or the WHOLE DIGEST
! Thanks !
> I have recently
acquired a new vehicle. I picked up a stock 91StealthTT
Wlcome to
the boosted world :)
> The head covers are leaking a small amount of
oil and it is pooling
> around the spark plug where they meet the
wires. Also mentioned, the wires
> are oil soaked.
Is this
leaking visible ? You can easily pull the front spark plug cover by
removing
the black screws. Then just pull the plug wires (of course at the boot)
and
inspect them for any oil. Also pull the front plugs to check the gap
and
condition. How's your mileage ? As I suppose the car has around 60k the
question
arises if the 60k service (timing belt and more) has been done
already.
> However, what is happening is that as this increase occurs
it eventually
> becomes too much and shorts the spark right to the block
because the pooled
> oil in contact with the plug. Solution, fix the
oil leak, new plug wires
> and give it a try.
No, if the spark
ignites to the block then the spark is gone. If the plugs are
soaked up to
the contact then you have a much more serious problem. I agree with
the wires
to be exchanged (take better than stock ones) but I'd also inspect the
plugs
at the same time. The rear ones are a PITA if you're not familiar as you
have
to remove the air intake part and this is not easy if you do it the
first
time. But with patience and some time it can be done. We can send you
scanned
papers from the manual and of course we'll help you remotely
:)
> Do you agree with the dealer's diagnosis or does the source of
this problem
> lie elsewhere.
What you're describing could also be
a hesitation caused by the timing to be
retarded. But as your car is bone
stock I doubt that this is your problem. I
therefore would say that the cause
lies in the ignition or the mixture.
For the mixture, try to loosen the
two front clamps on the black plastic part
that has an ellbow that leads to
the throttle body attached to the intake
manifold (TwinTurbo written on it).
This is called the Intercooler y-pipe. Pull
those two hoses that are commign
from the Intercoolers and inspect the inside
for too much oil deposit. This
caused some "uneven" acceleration on mine as the
intake got clogged
(including valves). It's very easy and a 15 minutes check.
I'm almost
sure that the dealer hasn't checked the rear plugs as it would take
him at
least an hour. If he did, then he's a moron not changing the plugs and
wires
at the same time ! Therefore, my advice is to check the front bank
first
(very easy) and check the intake hoses for too much oil (a slight film
is normal
but no lakes).
Hope this helps a little and I'm sure others
have more ideas.
Regards, Roger
-----------------------
Roger
Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 12:53:57 1998
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Team3S: oil survey/ oil level
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Jack, thanks for your input on my oil level problem
:)
> The oil level switch COULD still reflect oil pressure; if oil in
pan is
> very low, and pump is intermittently suckng air (oil pressure
near zero
> transiently) the oil pressure GUAGE won't reflect this well
because it
> has such a slow rate of change; needle takes awhile to get to
new
> values.
I'm really not sure to this as the pressure should go
lower over a longer
period. On the Autobahn I had speed around 120mph as the
ligh came on. I lifted
the throttle and the light went off. I then reset the
cruise speed and the light
did not came on again until the next hill. But
over a longer period this should
have been visible on the gauge as
well.
> I don't know if it is tied into oil pressure, though.
Sounds like you
> are pumping alot of oil to the top end of the motor
(valvecovers), and
> getting caught up in crank windage at sustained high
speeds.
Correct, absolutely my thoughts. I think I just run too thin oil
for the car
with the new pistons and rings. When looking into the valve cover
the thing as
enough oil everywhere !
> You could consider 1) having
a deeper oilpan made up
Gulp, I never had this problem before the pistons
went south. So I think this
meight help but does not cure the
cause.
> 2) an oil pressure reservoir, that will send pressurized oil
into system
Yes, if the pressure IS the problem.
> 3)
overfilling the crankcase (Full mark plus 1/4-1/2 more or so).
Ok, I'm at
the top mark now and think that with the thicker oil I'm back on the
good
side. Maybe the formula has changed of the light oils and they are
thinner
than expected now.
> Hope this gives some
ideas!
Yes, it did. Also the survey helps to see the range of oils the
people are
running. I'll definitely fill up the crank the next time with
10W50 synthetics
and will check out the behaivour.
Thanks
again,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 13:10:22 1998
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: [Fwd: Team3S: RE: Oil
Leak and Digest
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 13:11:24 -0800
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Michael...
This suggestion came via an attachment
from Darc...
<snip>
If the wires have been saturated for a
long time and cannot be cleaned,
you'll have to replace them as well. A cheap
wire option might be a recently
hammered TT at a wrecking yard, if the
Christmas season has impacted your
pocket change...preferably one with
low
kms. That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm
sure other
team members may have other suggestions. Darc
<end of
snip>
I still have my factory wires which I replaced with Magnecores
at 27.5K. If
you end up needing another set, you can make me a reasonable
offer.
BTW...I'm with Darc on resetting your computer. It's always a good
starting
point. Even though having fluid (of any sort) in the plug wells
would not be
a good thing, I find it difficult to imagine that it's grounding
your wires
(that's what your explanation of the dealers words sounds like to
me). There
is at least an eighth of an inch of rubber surrounding that
insulator and it
shouldn't soak up oil very well.
Looking
forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride with
me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
-----Original
Message-----
From: wce@bc.sympatico.ca [mailto:wce@bc.sympatico.ca]
Sent:
Monday, December 21, 1998 12:20 PM
To: Team3S
Subject: [Fwd: Team3S: RE:
Oil Leak and Digest
Michael;
I have rerouted my response to your
questions as a "forward" at this
point, as I suspect my first
response was screened out, perhaps fearing
it as a reply to your entire
Digest. Had I done that, (and I didn't)
members would have suffered through
the posting of the digest
twice..reasons for not doing so, deliniated
below.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 15:02:36 1998
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Hi Group;
I inadvertently advised Michael O. of the
wrong wise man recently (there
are few here) when I was referring to Digest
use. Jim M. posted in the
past on this topic when we were all huddled
together at Stealth
@starnet.net. The particular Digest this advice appears
in there is
#608, and he explains therein how to use filters on Netscape
properly if
one wants to use the Digest version, and respond to individual
topics
within it, without posting the whole half acre back at us. I
indicated,
in error, to query Roger on this, however, although his wisdom
is
legend, it was Jim who I meant. : ) : ) : )
Darc
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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From:
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To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: infiniti Q45
Date:
Mon, 21 Dec 1998 17:45:56 -0700
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Well everyone my Nissan decided to give up its ghost so I
had to drive
my 3000 for awhile and its been one exciting driving time
especially in
this last snow storm we just had here in Denver Colorado!!!
Well Next
Monday I'll be taking delivery of a 92 Infiniti Q45 and I know this
is
not list related but by any chance do any of you know someone that
has
performed any upgrades for these. I have a stillen catalog already
and
their prices are always too high so I was seeing if there are any
other
companies out there that I don't know about??? Thanks
Oh
Ps
Good luck to all of you especially Todd with gt-alley. I'm thankful
this
came about now since I was 2 weeks away of ordering their 368 turbos
:(
Ohwell guess I got to go back with the greddy setup. :)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 17:07:41 1998
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From: "Meyer" <meyer2@erols.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: infiniti
Q45
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 20:03:09 -0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Peter,
Brian just delivered a set of
368s to one of my customers Friday and he is
telling me he will make me
more. Let me know if you are
interested.
Frank
www.acceleratedaccessories.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Palamara, Peter <pala@gwl.com>
To:
'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com' <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date:
Monday, December 21, 1998 7:49 PM
Subject: Team3S: infiniti
Q45
>Well everyone my Nissan decided to give up its ghost so I had
to drive
>my 3000 for awhile and its been one exciting driving time
especially in
>this last snow storm we just had here in Denver Colorado!!!
Well Next
>Monday I'll be taking delivery of a 92 Infiniti Q45 and I know
this is
>not list related but by any chance do any of you know
someone that has
>performed any upgrades for these. I have a stillen
catalog already and
>their prices are always too high so I was seeing if
there are any other
>companies out there that I don't know about???
Thanks
>Oh Ps
>
>Good luck to all of you especially Todd with
gt-alley. I'm thankful this
>came about now since I was 2 weeks away of
ordering their 368 turbos :(
>Ohwell guess I got to go back with the
greddy setup. :)
>
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 21:37:26 -0500
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey
In-Reply-To:
<367ECB40.FEAB6B77@u.washington.edu>
References:
<31F439059458D211AAD70008C7B14C2029132D@xexchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
<367D4887.43C2@execpc.com>
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stealth-3000gt
1.
Vehicle:
1993 vr-4
2. Current mileage:
87,000 (42k miles last year)
3. Oil
weight:
10W-30
4. Oil
brand:
Mobil 1 Synthetic
5. Filter
brand: Pure
One
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every
3-4K miles
8.
Observations:
Oil all over the ground (nothing to do with the
oil but a leak some
place... It's going to Mits for a look
tomorrow :)
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
93 VR-4
# 0007
Tampa/Orlando FL
"He who laughs last ... thinks
slowest"
______________________________________
Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
bcdmad@concentric.net
Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
______________________________________
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 21 21:38:00 1998
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Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 22:35:54 -0700
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Tom Wilson
<kb7get@cyberhighway.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil
survey
In-Reply-To:
<3.0.2.32.19981221213726.00c74a4c@pop3.concentric.net>
References:
<367ECB40.FEAB6B77@u.washington.edu>
<31F439059458D211AAD70008C7B14C2029132D@xexchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
<367D4887.43C2@execpc.com>
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stealth-3000gt
>
>1.
Vehicle:
91 stealth rt/tt
>2. Current
mileage: 43958
>3. Oil
weight:
10w30 (winter) 5w50 (summer)
4. Oil
brand:
Castrol Syntec (synthetic)
>5. Filter
brand:
NAPA
>6.
Additives:
None
>7. Change frequency:
Every 3k miles
>8.
Observations:
Never had a lifter tick.
Oil pressure seems to run a little lower on the
10-30
than the 5w50 under normal highway rpm. (2100-2500rpm)
Oil seems to
hold up well under the extreme Idaho temp
swings. -20d winters to 110d
summers. Nice chilly -7
weather
today...tom.
kb7get@cyberhighway.net
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Tue Dec 22 06:39:02 1998
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Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998
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From: Matthews
<matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de>
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey
References:
<31F439059458D211AAD70008C7B14C2029132D@xexchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
<367D4887.43C2@execpc.com>
<367ECB40.FEAB6B77@u.washington.edu>
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stealth-3000gt
1.
Vehicle: 1994 TT
2.
Current mileage: 67,500 (34k miles of ownership, 18k miles
since
mods)
3. Oil weight:
10W-40
4. Oil brand: Castrol GTX
until 50k miles, then Mobil 1
5. Filter brand:
Mitsubishi OEM
6. Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: Every 3k miles with Castrol, every 5K miles
with
Mobil
8. Observations: Immediately after
purchasing the car (with 34k
miles on the
odometer), car was run with NO
oil whatsoever for between
two and five minutes and speeds from idle to 60
mph due
to the oil drain plug being loose and falling out (that will
teach
me to buy a Dodge-badged Mitsu from a Ford dealer!).
After surviving a
near-death experience and weeks (months?)
of thinking I was hearing abnormal
sounds on an unfamiliar
engine, all is fine, moderate lifter tick audible
only after
engine is warm and has been idling.
--
Jim
Matthews - Wiesbaden, Germany
matthews@wiesbaden.netsurf.de (64 Kbps
ISDN)
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews
*** 3000GT-Stealth
International (3Si) Member #0030
***
http://rover.wiesbaden.netsurf.de/~matthews/stealth.html
Jet Black '94
Dodge Stealth R/T Twin-Turbo AWD AWS 6-spd
Adjustable Active Suspension,
Adjustable Exhaust System
K&N FIPK, A'PEXi Super AVC-R (1.0 bar @ 70/84%
BADC)
A'PEXi Turbo Timer (30 sec), Bosch Winged Wipers
Magnecore spark
plug wires, Redline ShockProof fluids
Metal Matrix brake pads, custom braided
brake lines
Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4 245/45ZR17, TS (so far): 166mph
G-Tech
Pro: 0-60 4.79 sec, 1/4 13.16 sec @ 113.9 mph
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 22 09:01:58 1998
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Message-ID: <367FCF89.555A25A5@imd.cig.mot.com>
Date: Tue, 22
Dec 1998 10:57:45 -0600
From: Todd Schmalzried
<tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com>
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To: stealth 3s
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: plug
gap
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Hello All,
Great list. I'm glad I
made it over here.
I am going to replace my plugs and wires over
Christmas.
I'm using stock plugs, and Accel premade wires. I don't have any
mods yet
(except K&N). I am planning on putting on a boost controller
this spring.
What is the recommended gap? I've seen .028 up to .045. Most of
the
knowledgeable people seem to have migrated over here, so I trust
your
opinions.
Thanks and Happy Holidays!
--
Todd
Schmalzried
tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com
-You
"put your 2 cents in" but only get "a penny for your
thoughts"
-Who gets the change? Think about it. O-
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 22 09:40:06 1998
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To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:38:43
-0600
Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
Message-ID:
<19981222.113845.-255001.4.SJC0U812@juno.com>
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stealth-3000gt
Todd:
We just changed my plugs and wires, and
gapped the plugs at 0.034. Huge
difference. Input and direction
was gained and appreciated from Barry.
I used stock wires due to low funds,
and my car is bone stock.
Thanks,
Scott
'92 VR4
>I am
going to replace my plugs and wires over Christmas.
>What is the
recommended gap? I've seen .028 up to .045.
___________________________________________________________________
You
don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 22 14:53:18 1998
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From: "rtetetet"
<rtetetet@email.msn.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Re: Team3S: Oil
Survey
Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 06:19:54 -0500
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stealth-3000gt
1.
Vehicle:
1996 3000GT VR-4
2. Current
mileage: 3240
3. Oil
weight:
15W-50
4. Oil
brand:
Mobil 1
5. Filter
brand:
Fram EVERY CHANGE
6.
Additives:
None
7. Change frequency: 3000 Miles
8.
Observations:
nothing yet
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 22 16:26:53 1998
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re Plug
gap
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Try .34 and if you can afford it, go
with Platinum NKG plugs. Plug gaps
as small as .28 have been advised,
but as a recent thread indicated, you
get a larger spark with a larger
gap. .34 is about par for the course.
I have not seen .45 suggested and
seriously doubt a stock system is
involved if such a Grand Canyon gap was
ever recommended.
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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From:
Chris Winkley <cwinkley@plaza.ds.adp.com>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: plug gap
Date:
Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:51:57 -0800
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Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt
Todd...
I have Magnecore wires and HKS double
platinum plugs gapped at .034...which
boost controller are you going to
buy?
Looking forward...Chris
"Friends don't let friends ride
with me"
1995 Glacier Pearl White VR4
-----Original
Message-----
From: Todd Schmalzried [mailto:tschmal@imd.cig.mot.com]
Sent:
Tuesday, December 22, 1998 8:58 AM
To: stealth 3s
Subject: Team3S: plug
gap
<snip>
What is the recommended gap? I've seen .028 up to
.045.
<snip>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Tue
Dec 22 18:32:24 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
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Thanks Chris for not correcting the obvious (.34 should
read .034, etc) I just looked
up the specs in the shop manual and they
actually recommend from .039 to .043, which is
a whole bunch wider than most
of us run ours at. So, my comment on Grand Canyon gap
(.045) is apparently a
bit off target, as that upper end of the spectrum is indeed
used.
Darc
Chris Winkley wrote:
>
Todd...
>
> I have Magnecore wires and HKS double platinum plugs
gapped at .034...which
> boost controller are you going to
buy?
>
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt
Tue Dec 22 21:45:35 1998
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From: "Dennis
Moore" <stealth@kiva.net>
To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: Oil survey -
revised
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 00:46:24 -0500
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1. Vehicle: 93 Stealth ES (DOHC)
2.
Current mileage: 102K
3. Oil weight: 10W30
4. Oil brand: Valvoline
(non-synthetic)
5. Filter brand: [gulp] whatever The Grease Pit puts in,
never checked,
insert favorite chastisement here.
6. Additives: used
Slick50 at about 12K, when I first got it, since learned
the error of my
ways...
7. Change frequency: Every 3-4K
8. Observations: No unscheduled
maintenance (except for a clutch replaced
under warranty), no leaks, only had
noticeable (LOUD) lifter noise once
after it had been parked for several
weeks, very very light lifter noise now
(at least that's what I assume it
is...), still my favoritest car!
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Wed Dec 23 06:41:03 1998
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Wed, 23 Dec 1998 09:40:47 -0500 (EST)
From: "Meyer"
<meyer2@erols.com>
To: <Leswhite1@aol.com>
Cc:
"stealth" <stealth@starnet.net>,
<stealth@dragnet.org>,
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Exhaust for Dodge
Stealth
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 09:36:52 -0500
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Les,
There are a few
possibilities.
1. Use a Borla system which would require cutting out the
right side notch
in the rear bumper(I am told there is an outline on the back
side of the
bumper cover) Then you would have dual exhaust, nice sound and a
few
HP+..Cost=$715
2. Purchase a polished stainless steel muffler with
your choice of tip
styles from us for ~$200 and have local shop install on
factory pipe if ok
for~$50 or fabricate new pipe for ~$150 also nice sound +
few HP cost
$250-350. (retains single side exhaust)
3. Purchase 2 tips and
have local shop fabricate dual system with or without
muffler ~$150(we can
provide polished muffler for $145 and tips for ~$50 ea.
depending on style
and size) Cost=$400 w/muffler mellow sound. Cost w/o
muffler ~$250 pretty
loud.
Hope this
helps.
Frank
www.acceleratedaccessories.com
-----Original
Message-----
From: Leswhite1@aol.com <Leswhite1@aol.com>
To:
meyer2@erols.com <meyer2@erols.com>
Date: Wednesday, December 23, 1998
7:40 AM
Subject: Exhaust for Dodge
Stealth
>Gentlemen:
>
>I have a 1992 Dodge Stealth
(base model) and am looking for an exhaust
system.
>This is the single
exhaust model. I'm looking for something to give
a
slight
>increase in horsepower and sound nice. Is there
anything available?
>
>Thanks,
>Les White
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 23 08:36:04 1998
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Subject: Team3S: [Fwd: Re: Are the racing
unothodox pulleys any good?]
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I thought this would
be a good topic for discussion here as well.
Jack
T.
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To: stealth@starnet.net
Subject: Re: Are the
racing unothodox pulleys any good?
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Joshua
wrote:
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulleys:
> I have heard some people say
they aren't any good and other say they are
> great. Any info would
be greatly appreciated.
I would not get one. Though they are a
PULLEY, they are not any longer
HARMONIC DAMPENERS. The original
purpose of that heavy disc on the
front of all car engines is as a harmonic
dampener; Mitsu just added a
serpentine belt pulley on its outside aspect as
a space-saving effort,
so it does 2 functions at once. The original and
more important
function is still dampening crankshaft harmonics.
A crank is a long, rigid metal shape; if you tap with a hammer
it
"rings" (especially forged cranks; cast cranks have some
internal
dampening). So what? Well, a hammer hitting it is only
ONE way to
cause the crank to RESONATE and exhibit harmonic VIBRATIONS.
Another
way is to RUN the engine! The engine is a vibration factory (as
we all
know)...and if left undamped, crank harmonics can build up at
certain
(harmonic) rpms and these vibrations DON'T just disappear, they have
to
be DISSIPATED! The best way to dissipate them is via
the
SPECIFICALLY-DESIGNED-TO-DO-THIS "Harmonic Dampener" hanging
off the
front of the crank. It has an elastomeric (rubber) isolator
between the
hub and the HEAVY outer ring, and is as a unit, designed to
damp
harmonics at the critical frequencies seen by the crank.
The heavier the outer ring, the better it damps, and the higher
its
efficiency at damping. NASCAR LONGtrack engines use HEAVY
dampeners, to
allow the bearings to live the long race length; the shorter
the race,
the more often the bearings get changed (after EVERY RACE), the
LIGHTER
a dampener can be used because lighter is a little faster to
accelerate
the engine due to lower rotational inertia. You are
trading
bearing/crank life for speed. Where do YOU want to go on
this? Are you
lucky?
The OTHER way to damp harmonic energy
(which MUST GO SOMEWHERE) is
through the main bearings, into the main bearing
saddles on the BLOCK.
This can cause premature wear/fatigue/flaking of main
bearings, and
cracks in the main bearing saddles on the block. This is
a poor
tradeoff for "an underdrive pulley".
Does this ALWAYS
happen? No. Some people may not push their cars very
hard very
often; some may not do longtrack racing; some may not keep
their cars long
enough to discover the bearing wear, or to crack
anything; the underlying
design may be robust enough to cover over this
MISTAKE in parts
selection. There is a pretty big industry in harmonic
dampeners,
different TECHNIQUES for dampening (Fluidampr, ATI, BHJ,
"The
Rattler", etc) but they ALL DAMPEN HARMONICS because it is
important.
There may be some FREQUENTLY REBUILT race engines (?CART) that
are not
using dampeners but IF you think their ENGINEERS have not taken
crank
harmonics into account in their multi-multimillion dollar engine
design,
THEN there are worthless bridges to be sold to you...and
foolish
pennywise-pound foolish _NON DAMPENING_ "PULLEYS" to be
sold.
As a person who comes to the hobby from an enginebuilder's
standpoint
(not sales/driver/etc) this misinformation about "you don't
need a
dampener" or when that fails "our unorthodox pulley does the
same thing"
is sad. It gets down to this. Do ya feel
lucky? Well, do ya...?
[Clint would say "punk" but that
isn't my direction, just a good line
:) ] This is an insult to
your engine's health. It MAY take it in
stride; but it is an
offense. I respect my hardworking engine too much
to burden it with the
sometimes insane levels of harmonics that can
occur without harmonic dampener
protection. Where else are you going to
cut corners? What other
basic enginebuilding good practices is one
going to spit on, and WHICH will
be the straw that breaks the camel's
back...eventually?
Jack
Tertadian
This is a hotbutton issue with me. I never thought having a
harmonic
dampener would be considered "conservative enginebuilding"
by
some...geez.
ps if anyone is interested in a REAL HARMONIC DAMPENER
with underdrive
for our cars, I am looking into having some made, because
NHRA rules
require an SFI-approved harmonic balancer for cars going into the
11's.
With all the IDRA etc drag groups out there using NHRA tracks, better
to
be legal BEFORE someone challenges it/you and disqualifies
you...
--------------1460AB2B00--
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From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
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Darcy:
For the TT, 0.045" would be too
wide/hot. For the NT cars, however, it
isn't. I've been running
at 0.045" since I did my 60k.
Rich
wce@bc.sympatico.ca
wrote:
<snip>
> [...] I just looked up the specs in
the shop manual and
> they actually recommend from .039 to .043, which is
a whole
> bunch wider than most of us run ours at. So, my comment on
> Grand Canyon gap (.045) is apparently a bit off target, as
> that
upper end of the spectrum is indeed used.
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From
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Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 11:58:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Dennis
Moore <stealth@kiva.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Re: Team3S: [Fwd: Re: Are the racing unothodox pulleys any
good?]
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Jack,
Thanks for the tome on the
pulleys-as-dampeners. That leads to another
question or
two.
Isn't the dynamic balancing done on the crankshaft sufficient to
dampen
the vibrations?
Would it be accurate to describe the
pulleys as a "flywheel"? Is there
any kind of inertial energy
storage/recovery involved here?
Thanks.
Dennis
Moore
stealth@kiva.net
Change is disruptive - but that's the
point!
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Dec 23 08:59:57 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
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Todd Schmalzried wrote:
> I am going to replace my
plugs and wires over Christmas.
> I'm using stock plugs, and Accel premade
wires. I don't have any mods yet
> (except K&N). I am planning on
putting on a boost controller this spring.
> What is the recommended gap?
I've seen .028 up to .045. Most of the
> knowledgeable people seem to have
migrated over here, so I trust your
> opinions.
> Todd
Schmalzried
For your situation, .028-.032 ok. Our ignitions are somewhat weak.
Larger gaps make a tad more power all else equal because they have
better
chance of lighting mix...but if so large and boost so high spark
too weak and
it DOESN'T light mix you sputter misfire and lose ALOT,
compared to little
loss with tighter gap.
Jack Tertadian
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: [Fwd: Re: Are the racing
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Dennis Moore wrote:
> Thanks for the tome on the
pulleys-as-dampeners. That leads to another
> question or
two.
> Isn't the dynamic balancing done on the crankshaft sufficient to
dampen
> the vibrations?
No. That is important: BALANCE
of a crankshaft system does not mean it
has no HARMONICS. An imbalance
leads to vibration, the magnitude of
which a function of the amount (mass) of
imbalance, the RPM of the
crank, and the moment of inertia of the imbalance
(farther away from
crank centerline leads to more vibration
amplitude).
HARMONICS is a function of rpm, elastic modulus
etc...stiffer/shorter
has higher frequency harmonics than a
longer/"looser" less rigid
system. It can be in perfect
balance, but hit it with a hammer and it
still RINGS!
> Would it be
accurate to describe the pulleys as a "flywheel"? Is
there
> any kind of inertial energy storage/recovery involved
here?
The Unorthodox Racing Pulleys are not harmonic dampeners, they
are
simple pulleys. As a mass spinning along with the crank, they
also
serve to store some energy (as does the stock harmonic dampener) so
YES,
they also act in part as a flywheel...but with low mass/low
diameter,
not a whole LOT of flywheel energy compared to the actual flyweel
on the
BACK of the engine.
> Thanks. Dennis Moore
No
probs! Maybe we have some mechanical engieer/physics wonks who
can
delve into harmonics more accurately than I...
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Wed
Dec 23 11:17:21 1998
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Rich;
I didn't think of the NT as having a
different gap, but then again, I didn't think.
Thanks for clearing it up. The
manual makes no mention of a difference between the two
(NT and TT) and only
differentials between plugs for SOHC and DOHC... no mention of
gap
difference. Since they advise .039-.043 in, >>>>what would
you suggest? Consensus from
team (Barry, Roger, Errin, Jim, Mikael, Jack,
Bob, Tod, et all ?)
NT .039-.043 ?
TT
.028-.035 ?
Darc
Please also note an error in a recent post
wherein I noted "there are few wise men here"
This should have read
"..a few wise men here"....my spell check does not correct
missing
words.
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Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
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Darcy:
In a nutshell, I won't recommend anything
other than what the manual
states for an NT, and won't even touch the TT
issue. I'm simply not as
well versed in the boost/gap issue like the
noted others. They've got
the experience with the TT's, not I.
I opened my NT up to 0.045" specifically looking for a little
extra
"oomph" in my attempts to break the 14 second barrier during
the season,
(there were those who recommended 0.050", but I thought that
might be a
tad hot), and because of laziness, just have never regapped them
back to
0.042". The difference in the gaps, IMO, didn't make an
appreciable (to
me) difference in performance, and isn't worth the
effort.
FWIW, the car runs great at 0.045". Just ask
Chris Winkley. :-)
Rich
Emerald Green 94
R/T
wce@bc.sympatico.ca wrote:
>
> Rich;
>
<snip>
>>>>what would you suggest? Consensus
from
> team (Barry, Roger, Errin, Jim, Mikael, Jack, Bob, Tod, et all
?)
>
> NT .039-.043 ?
> TT
.028-.035 ?
>
> Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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Message-ID:
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From:
"Jeffrey Young" <jefyoung@ix.netcom.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: underdrive
pulleys
Date: Wed, 23 Dec 1998 13:29:43 -0700
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Jack;
I went to the Unorthodox
Pulleys site to read up on what they had to say
about there pulleys and
harmonic dampening (I know..I know...marketing
B.S.). They said, and I
quote
"Lastly, the misconception that the crank pulleys on these
vehicles are
harmonic dampers. A harmonic damper is a unit bolted to
the crankshaft
snout that is completely separate from the belt drive system.
An engine that
uses a harmonic damper has the accessory drive crank pulley
bolted to it,
they are completely separate pieces that are rarely attached to
each other.
None of the vehicles we manufacture pulleys for have harmonic
dampers. "
I assume that this is not the case for the 3S? I
haven't pulled the drive
crank pulley off my car to verify, but I WAS
considering replacing with one
of the Unorthodox units.....maybe
not!
Jeffrey
92
RT/Turbo
www.omega-sw.com/stealth
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 24 03:21:58 1998
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Subject: Re: Team3S: underdrive pulleys
(long)
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My $0.02 add here:
I do not know anything about the
harmonic balancer/pulley on our cars. But we
had this discussion a long time
ago on the Camaro/Firebird forum/lists.
Please keep in mind that the 5.7l
f-bodies are having an old fashioned single
cam/pushrod/rocker V8 engine. The
harmonic balancer is a part of the accessoires
serpentine belt system.
Looking at it shows that the thing is made of four
parts. The inner
"star" that bolts to the crank, and the "ring. The last is
made
of an inner part,a hard rubber part and the outer ring. With this
design, there
is alot mass positioned on a larger radius measured from the
crank. But due to
the rubber parts any harmonics are dampened and even more
such a three-piece
design is more efficient in balancing the
crank.
Now, of course we also had the idea to replace this large, heavy
thing by a
small aluminum pulley. Weight was reduced by some lbs but then
problems came up
with the crank ! Some had problems with a "more shaking
feeling", others
reported some damage (especially 11-12s cars). For the
power, no tourque gain
was found but up to 10hp on the dyno. Well, this is
very relative as the power
steering pump of the f-bodies are a weak point and
together with the alternator
and AC these accessoires are stealing power
away. As the LT1 switches A/C off at
WOT, power gain now was only related to
the alt and pump(s). The average between
40 or more cars with pulleys was
about 5-7hp.
At the end, the consensus was that an underdrive pulley CAN
free up some horses
used by the accesoires. The more important was weight
saving but here the
problem kicked in. Some companies then designed new
harmonic dampening
underdrive pulleys. But they are very expensive and not
worth the few horses, if
any. All LT1 with underdrive pulleys (as me too) do
now have the design that
still uses the stock blancer, but on top of the new
inderdrive pulley :) This
means you have slowed down the acc and still having
the good balancing. As
there's some room in the f-bodies this was no problem
(only longer bolts).
On my car the underdrive freed up nothing at all :(
Furthermore tha alt is
slowed down too much not giving enough power when
sitting at the lights. I had
to get an overdrive puelly for the alt then. For
me the positive thig was that
the power steering pump was slowed down about
25%. Before the pulley I always
had this anoying whine when turning the
wheel. Also some fluid went away to ???
after some times. All these problems
are gone now and this is the only reason
why I run the underdrive pulley !
Another proud member has a good website on
this information :
http://www.ws6.com/mod-2.htm
Back to our cars, the accessoires do not
steal alot hp away. Even more I cannot
see any diff in mileage when I switch
A/C on or off. The alt is small a well
designed not to drain to much power
into heat like the GM crap (this is fact)
does. Also the pumps are better and
I'm sure all these parts counted together
makes the price difference between
ours and the f-bodies.
Ok, this leads us to say, an ud pulley does not
bring anything than :
a) maybe 2 horses on our cars
b) big hassle to
change it
c) less balancing
d) effects of the acc we currently don't
know
IMHO, this is not worth the $ you pay for the pulley nor the work
you'll have to
do.
Merry Christmas to all
Roger, snow-white
Switzerland
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Subject: Re: Team3S: plug gap
References:
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stealth-3000gt
> In a nutshell, I won't recommend anything other than
what the manual
> states for an NT, and won't even touch the TT
issue.
Yeah, put if we increase boost we already touched the TT issue
:)
I agree with you on the NT side and would recommend to keep it as it
is if no
more MAJOR mods will be done to the car. 0.042 - 0.045 is
fine.
For the TT it depends on the mods, fuel, gaps, etc. Running the
good NGK
Platinums, with boost around 1.00bars a gap of 0.034 is enough. The
higher the
boost somewhat smaller the gap. An earlier consensus I remember of
is running at
1.2bars a gap around 0.028 is a good
value.
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
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Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 12:56:48
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stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Team3S: Blitz DSBC online
manual
References:
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<368055CB.81B770B9@bc.sympatico.ca> <36811F40.49BD@pacifier.com>
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stealth-3000gt
Hey friends,
I got many messages the last week with
people asking about the DSBC and how to
tune it in. Well, Mikael and me where
about the first guys that used this thing
in a 3000GT and we tuned it in with
a japanese manual and the help of Chien from
Nexus who installed it in his
DSM car.
It seems that Blitz will never improove their
"brochure" like manual and I
decided to create a web-page with all
the pics and steps for tuning in the
stuff. Of course, it is not finalized
yet and it only consists of how to set
limiter, Gain and Ratio. There are
still some deeper explanations necessary but
I'm currently not sure if this
is good for a newbie as well as for the pro. I
just want to be sure to go the
right way.
I'd highly appreciate if you guys could have a short look at
this "not official"
site and give me your comment on the easyness
or hardness for understanding the
stuff I wrote down. It is my intention to
help the people who are not that
familiar with the stuff and are not that
skilled to do the installation by
themselfes. Unfortunately, almost every
dealer who installed the DSBC was not
able to tell if it is working or not.
Therefore they did not know how to tune it
in. So how should the user know
then ??
Please have a look at
:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/dbsc_manual.html
Please
excuse the &%%ç GeoCities stuff but I'll move to another server
soon.
Thanks in advance for any
feedback,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 24 08:55:50 1998
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From: "Bob Rand"
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To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: Blitz DSBC online manual
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 11:35:59
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Great page Roger, Much needed info
on this product.
-----Original Message-----
From: R.G.
<robby@swissonline.ch>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Thursday, December 24, 1998 7:00
AM
Subject: Team3S: Blitz DSBC online manual
>I got many
messages the last week with people asking about the DSBC and
how
to
>tune it
in
>http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/dbsc_manual.html
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
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From:
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To:
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<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: Re: Are the racing
unothodox pulleys any good?
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 09:14:15
-0800
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stealth-3000gt
Here is what Unorthodox Racing has to say on the subject.
Your
results may vary, of course:
2) "Isn't my
crank/eccentric pulley a harmonic/torsional or vibrational
damper
?"
The factory pulleys on late model cars (from 1986 to Present,
sometimes
earlier depending on the vehicle) serve two functions. First, they
are
designed to reduce the noises the accessories make when the engine
is
running. This is due to the factory fanaticism about making a quiet car
for
the occupants, it has nothing to do with engine function.
The
second function of late model crank pulleys is torsional damping.
Torsional
damping is necessary due to the excessive diameter and weight of
the factory
crank pulleys. The design of our crank pulleys eliminates the
need for any
torsional damping for two reasons: a) the diameter of our crank
pulleys is
smaller than the original designs, therefore effectively reducing
the force
the accessories have on the crankshaft, b) most importantly, our
pulleys are
significantly lighter than their OEM counterparts (anywhere from
3 to 10
lbs.).
Lastly, the misconception that the crank pulleys on these
vehicles are
harmonic dampers. A harmonic damper is a unit bolted to the
crankshaft snout
that is completely separate from the belt drive system. An
engine that uses
a harmonic damper has the accessory drive crank pulley
bolted to it, they
are completely separate pieces that are rarely attached to
each other. None
of the vehicles we manufacture pulleys for have harmonic
dampers.
It is important for owners who have engines that use balance
shafts to
understand that if they eliminate their balance shafts they must
have their
engines balanced to 0 grams if they plan to purchase or continue
to use our
crank pulleys . Our pulleys are almost perfectly balanced. 6061 is
a very
consistent material and the CNC machining process ensures that our
pulleys
are perfectly true.
So there ya have it... I'm not sure
WHAT to think now. :o
--------------------------------------
Dave
Allison
Network Engineer
Siebel Systems,
Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: xwing
[mailto:xwing@execpc.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 23, 1998 9:15 AM
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject: Re: Team3S: [Fwd: Re: Are the racing
unothodox pulleys any
good?]
Dennis Moore wrote:
> Thanks
for the tome on the pulleys-as-dampeners. That leads to another
>
question or two.
> Isn't the dynamic balancing done on the crankshaft
sufficient to dampen
> the vibrations?
No. That is
important: BALANCE of a crankshaft system does not mean it
has no
HARMONICS. An imbalance leads to vibration, the magnitude of
which a
function of the amount (mass) of imbalance, the RPM of the
crank, and the
moment of inertia of the imbalance (farther away from
crank centerline leads
to more vibration amplitude).
HARMONICS is a function of rpm, elastic
modulus etc...stiffer/shorter
has higher frequency harmonics than a
longer/"looser" less rigid
system. It can be in perfect
balance, but hit it with a hammer and it
still RINGS!
> Would it be
accurate to describe the pulleys as a "flywheel"? Is
there
> any kind of inertial energy storage/recovery involved
here?
The Unorthodox Racing Pulleys are not harmonic dampeners, they
are
simple pulleys. As a mass spinning along with the crank, they
also
serve to store some energy (as does the stock harmonic dampener) so
YES,
they also act in part as a flywheel...but with low mass/low
diameter,
not a whole LOT of flywheel energy compared to the actual flyweel
on the
BACK of the engine.
> Thanks. Dennis Moore
No
probs! Maybe we have some mechanical engieer/physics wonks who
can
delve into harmonics more accurately than I...
Jack Tertadian
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
For subscribe/unsubscribe info,
our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Thu Dec 24 09:23:58 1998
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Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998
12:22:42 EST
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Are
the racing unothodox pulleys any good?
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stealth-3000gt
Although I can't be positive the Unorthodox
pulley is 100% liable, I know a
Stealth tt and a VR4 that have had
bearing/crank failure after running the
Unorthodox crank pulley. I
personally decided against one for the reasons
Jack pointed out below (even
though they DO make a noticible difference
in
power).
TTYLater,
Mike Mahaffey
'94 Stealth tt
Best et:
11.6 Best mph: 121.58
In a message dated 98-12-23 11:36:07 EST, you
write:
<< Joshua wrote:
Unorthodox Underdrive Pulleys:
>
I have heard some people say they aren't any good and other say they are
>
great. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
I would not get
one. Though they are a PULLEY, they are not any longer
HARMONIC
DAMPENERS. The original purpose of that heavy disc on the
front of all
car engines is as a harmonic dampener; Mitsu just added a
serpentine belt
pulley on its outside aspect as a space-saving effort,
so it does 2 functions
at once. The original and more important
function is still dampening
crankshaft harmonics.
A crank is a long, rigid metal shape; if you
tap with a hammer it
"rings" (especially forged cranks; cast cranks
have some internal
dampening). So what? Well, a hammer hitting it
is only ONE way to
cause the crank to RESONATE and exhibit harmonic
VIBRATIONS. Another
way is to RUN the engine! The engine is a
vibration factory (as we all
know)...and if left undamped, crank harmonics
can build up at certain
(harmonic) rpms and these vibrations DON'T just
disappear, they have to
be DISSIPATED! The best way to dissipate them
is via the
SPECIFICALLY-DESIGNED-TO-DO-THIS "Harmonic Dampener"
hanging off the
front of the crank. It has an elastomeric (rubber)
isolator between the
hub and the HEAVY outer ring, and is as a unit, designed
to damp
harmonics at the critical frequencies seen by the crank.
The heavier the outer ring, the better it damps, and the higher
its
efficiency at damping. NASCAR LONGtrack engines use HEAVY
dampeners, to
allow the bearings to live the long race length; the shorter
the race,
the more often the bearings get changed (after EVERY RACE), the
LIGHTER
a dampener can be used because lighter is a little faster to
accelerate
the engine due to lower rotational inertia. You are
trading
bearing/crank life for speed. Where do YOU want to go on
this? Are you
lucky?
The OTHER way to damp harmonic energy
(which MUST GO SOMEWHERE) is
through the main bearings, into the main bearing
saddles on the BLOCK.
This can cause premature wear/fatigue/flaking of main
bearings, and
cracks in the main bearing saddles on the block. This is
a poor
tradeoff for "an underdrive pulley".
Does this ALWAYS
happen? No. Some people may not push their cars very
hard very
often; some may not do longtrack racing; some may not keep
their cars long
enough to discover the bearing wear, or to crack
anything; the underlying
design may be robust enough to cover over this
MISTAKE in parts
selection. There is a pretty big industry in harmonic
dampeners,
different TECHNIQUES for dampening (Fluidampr, ATI, BHJ,
"The
Rattler", etc) but they ALL DAMPEN HARMONICS because it is
important.
There may be some FREQUENTLY REBUILT race engines (?CART) that
are not
using dampeners but IF you think their ENGINEERS have not taken
crank
harmonics into account in their multi-multimillion dollar engine
design,
THEN there are worthless bridges to be sold to you...and
foolish
pennywise-pound foolish _NON DAMPENING_ "PULLEYS" to be
sold.
As a person who comes to the hobby from an enginebuilder's
standpoint
(not sales/driver/etc) this misinformation about "you don't
need a
dampener" or when that fails "our unorthodox pulley does the
same thing"
is sad. It gets down to this. Do ya feel
lucky? Well, do ya...?
[Clint would say "punk" but that
isn't my direction, just a good line
:) ] This is an insult to
your engine's health. It MAY take it in
stride; but it is an
offense. I respect my hardworking engine too much
to burden it with the
sometimes insane levels of harmonics that can
occur without harmonic dampener
protection. Where else are you going to
cut corners? What other
basic enginebuilding good practices is one
going to spit on, and WHICH will
be the straw that breaks the camel's
back...eventually?
Jack
Tertadian
This is a hotbutton issue with me. I never thought having a
harmonic
dampener would be considered "conservative enginebuilding"
by
some...geez.
ps if anyone is interested in a REAL HARMONIC DAMPENER
with underdrive
for our cars, I am looking into having some made, because
NHRA rules
require an SFI-approved harmonic balancer for cars going into the
11's.
With all the IDRA etc drag groups out there using NHRA tracks, better
to
be legal BEFORE someone challenges it/you and disqualifies you...
>>
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
Dec 24 12:47:07 1998
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Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 14:42:20 -0500
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From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: Blitz DSBC online
manual
In-Reply-To: <36823A10.751217F8@swissonline.ch>
References:
<31F439059458D211AAD70008C7B14C20291343@xexchange01.plaza.ds.adp.com>
<368055CB.81B770B9@bc.sympatico.ca>
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Looks great! I remember when I put mine in and we
talked about the setting
via email (that was a adventure
experimenting). It's hard to figure out
how to explain the gain
setting. I found that the gain will increase boost
over and is like a
base line setting. But more over the gain will increase
the spool-up
speed. I changed mine from 45 to 50 and found little change
in peak
boost but a big change in spike/spool-up. I think you have nailed
the
concepts in the web page very well.
Also you need to change
"live-saver" to "life-saver". You must have a
great
spell checker cause there were no spelling errors (I'm the worst
speller
there is so I know what a feat that is and having dyslexia and no
spell check
makes my post a real experience to read.
Oh yea you might also note that when
setting the DSBC that a run in third
gear at WOT is needed. If not
they'll be suprised at there values in the
first race they have :)
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
93 VR-4
# 0007
Tampa/Orlando FL
"He who laughs last ... thinks
slowest"
______________________________________
Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
bcdmad@concentric.net
Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
______________________________________
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Thu
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To: <Stealth@starnet.net>,
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Subject: Team3S: Happy Holidays from
Accelerated Accessories
Date: Thu, 24 Dec 1998 17:17:33 -0500
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Happy Hannukah(belated), Merry Christmas, Happy Kwansa
and Joy to any =
other celebrants out there. Many thanks for helping
Accelerated =
Accessories become a
reality.
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sat
Dec 26 19:20:34 1998
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Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998
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Subject: Team3S: Re: Plug Gap
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Todd,
I just installed a new set
of stock NGK plugs and Magnecor wires. I also
have HKS filters, HKS exhaust,
and an HKS boost controller. I gapped the
plugs at .032 and have had good
results. The engine cutout that I was
getting before at about 15 psi
disappeared. I have no trouble running it up
to 16 psi now (only for short
durations).
I also noticed an increase in boost pressure achieved with the
same
settings on my boost controller before the new plugs and wires. I'm
not
quite sure the reason for this, but I'm giving the new plugs and gap
the
credit.
Jeff.
Belleville, MI
'92 VR4
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 08:22:46 1998
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Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998
11:40:08 -0500
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Has anyone out there with a non-turbo installed a G-force
ecu? I was
planning this as my next modification, but with the cost involved,
i
want input as to how effective it is. What do they change from the
stock
ecu, the fuel maps, timing, or the ignition? What kind of HP gain can
be
realized with this mod? Thanks for any info.
Matt
3/Si
#311
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
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Hi guys,
I hope you are having a good holiday..
You
have not heard form me yet, My name is Marc Jaffe, I am in New York, And I have
a 95
VR4 with 62k miles
1)My ABS light has been coming on ..if i restart
the car it goes out. I t seems to come on
more when the car has sat for a
while. It always goes out when i restart.
A)is one of the sensors
failing?
B)how do I tell which?
C)is it a big deal to replace? I see one
bolt?
D how much?
next
2)what does the controller box under the
the heater vents on the passenger side control?
I have a squeaky fan and when
you take off the plastic to get to it there is a box
attached?..Hopefully the
squeak is gone..this is just a question of what is it?
3)I have seen some
threads on shocks and am questioning if these are a big deal to
replace
myself (stock) because of the ECS?
4) my Reciever (infinity)
has lost the FM amp but the cassette, cd and AM are fine. It
starts out fine
and then fades to almost nothing..the rest are fine..I live and travel
on
dirt roads and I am thinking maybe a solder joint is wacked, but that does
not compute.
Big deal or cost to repair? I want to keep the setup for
now.
I look forward to your responses, and have a good new
year
Marc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 14:39:07 1998
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From: "Bob Rand"
<rtr@vnet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ABS light
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:39:59 -0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
Hi Marc, I can help a little with
the FM reception. Apparently the
Infinity head has a little defect that
dodge and mitsu refuse to recall. the
FM curcuit has a defect in the IC
section that requires the unit to be sent
in for repair. Dealers are familiar
with this problem.
Bob
93 Stealth TT (with intermittant FM reception
failure)
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Jaffe
<marc@marcjaffe.com>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 3:07
PM
Subject: Team3S: ABS light
>Hi guys,
>I hope you are
having a good holiday..
>You have not heard form me yet, My name is Marc
Jaffe, I am in New York,
And I have a 95
>VR4 with 62k
miles
>1)My ABS light has been coming on ..if i restart the car it goes
out. I t
seems to come on
>more when the car has sat for a while. It
always goes out when i restart.
>A)is one of the sensors
failing?
>B)how do I tell which?
>C)is it a big deal to replace? I
see one bolt?
>D how much?
>
>next
>
>2)what does
the controller box under the the heater vents on the passenger
side
control?
>I have a squeaky fan and when you take off the plastic to get to
it there
is a box
>attached?..Hopefully the squeak is gone..this is
just a question of what is
it?
>
>3)I have seen some threads on
shocks and am questioning if these are a big
deal to replace
>myself
(stock) because of the ECS?
>
>4) my Reciever (infinity) has lost
the FM amp but the cassette, cd and AM
are fine. It
>starts out fine
and then fades to almost nothing..the rest are fine..I live
and travel
on
>dirt roads and I am thinking maybe a solder joint is wacked, but that
does
not compute.
>Big deal or cost to repair? I want to keep the setup
for now.
>
>I look forward to your responses, and have a good new
year
>Marc
>
>For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 15:18:38 1998
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Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:13:45 -0500
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
In-Reply-To:
<3686938F.FFDC224C@marcjaffe.com>
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<199812270320.TAA12134@list.sirius.com>
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Well First thing to check would be the whireing
itself. They have been
know to come off. This happens right near
the strut. You can take off the
strut cap, which is located on top of
the strut (big black rubber cover).
You can then see the wires. Check
to make sure there making a connection
and also fro corrosion. 90% of the
time this is what it is. Even better yet
just go to this page on John's site
and it will show you how to do
this.
http://user.icx.net/~adams/front_strut_wiring_shield_mod.htm
At
03:07 PM 12/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi guys,
>I hope you are having
a good holiday..
>You have not heard form me yet, My name is Marc Jaffe, I
am in New York,
And I have a 95
>VR4 with 62k miles
>1)My ABS
light has been coming on ..if i restart the car it goes out. I t
seems to
come on
>more when the car has sat for a while. It always goes out when i
restart.
>A)is one of the sensors failing?
>B)how do I tell
which?
>C)is it a big deal to replace? I see one bolt?
>D how
much?
>
93 VR-4
# 0007
Tampa/Orlando FL
"He who
laughs last ... thinks
slowest"
______________________________________
Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
bcdmad@concentric.net
Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
______________________________________
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 15:21:22 1998
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From: "Bob Rand"
<rtr@vnet.net>
To: <stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject:
Re: Team3S: ABS light
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:22:16 -0500
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Whoa,, Brian he is referencing the
ABS (anti lock break), not the ECS
(Electronic control
suppension)
-----Original Message-----
From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 6:18
PM
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
>Well First thing to check
would be the whireing itself. They have been
>know to come
off. This happens right near the strut. You can take off
the
>strut cap, which is located on top of the strut (big black rubber
cover).
>You can then see the wires. Check to make sure there making
a connection
>and also fro corrosion. 90% of the time this is what it is.
Even better yet
>just go to this page on John's site and it will show you
how to do
this.
>http://user.icx.net/~adams/front_strut_wiring_shield_mod.htm
>
>At
03:07 PM 12/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>Hi guys,
>>I hope you
are having a good holiday..
>>You have not heard form me yet, My name
is Marc Jaffe, I am in New York,
>And I have a 95
>>VR4 with 62k
miles
>>1)My ABS light has been coming on ..if i restart the car it
goes out. I t
>seems to come on
>>more when the car has sat for a
while. It always goes out when i restart.
>>A)is one of the sensors
failing?
>>B)how do I tell which?
>>C)is it a big deal to
replace? I see one bolt?
>>D how much?
>>
>
>93
VR-4
># 0007
>Tampa/Orlando FL
>
>"He who laughs
last ... thinks
slowest"
>
>______________________________________
>Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
> bcdmad@concentric.net
>
>Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
>______________________________________
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 16:00:42 1998
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Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:56:00 -0500
To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
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Opps My bad! Check the break fluid reservoire.
It also could be the
reservoir sendor/sensor.
At 06:22 PM 12/27/98
-0500, you wrote:
>Whoa,, Brian he is referencing the ABS (anti lock
break), not the ECS
>(Electronic control
suppension)
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
>To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998
6:18 PM
>Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
>
>
>>Well
First thing to check would be the whireing itself. They have
been
>>know to come off. This happens right near the strut.
You can take off the
>>strut cap, which is located on top of the strut
(big black rubber cover).
>>You can then see the wires. Check to
make sure there making a connection
>>and also fro corrosion. 90% of
the time this is what it is. Even better yet
>>just go to this page on
John's site and it will show you how to do
this.
>>http://user.icx.net/~adams/front_strut_wiring_shield_mod.htm
>>
>>At
03:07 PM 12/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>>Hi guys,
>>>I
hope you are having a good holiday..
>>>You have not heard form me
yet, My name is Marc Jaffe, I am in New York,
>>And I have a
95
>>>VR4 with 62k miles
>>>1)My ABS light has been
coming on ..if i restart the car it goes out. I t
>>seems to come
on
>>>more when the car has sat for a while. It always goes out when
i restart.
>>>A)is one of the sensors failing?
>>>B)how
do I tell which?
>>>C)is it a big deal to replace? I see one
bolt?
>>>D how much?
>>>
>>
>>93
VR-4
>># 0007
>>Tampa/Orlando
FL
>>
>>"He who laughs last ... thinks
slowest"
>>
>>______________________________________
>>Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
>>
bcdmad@concentric.net
>>
>>Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
>>______________________________________
>>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
>http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>>
>
>For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page
is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
>
93 VR-4
# 0007
Tampa/Orlando FL
"He who laughs last ... thinks
slowest"
______________________________________
Email
Brian_Danley@parsons.com
bcdmad@concentric.net
Homepage
http://www.concentric.net/~bcdmad
______________________________________
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 16:56:39 1998
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Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 16:56:10
-0800
To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
From: Jay Steinberg
<jay@wco.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
Sender:
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stealth-3000gt
Exactly... Now, unfortunately this issue of the ECS light
blinking is not
dealt with entirely correctly. I get the sense that Marc
wants to replace
the struts, though it's not totally clear. First, let me
comment on the ECS
blinking light; I've done so before. Simply a break in the
connector wiring
at the top of strut is not the sole cause of the problem. If
there's a
break in the filamentous wiring within the strut, you will get the
blinking
too. It's impossible to fix, short of strut replacement. So, I live
with a
blinking light. Does anyone know how to cut out that light? As for
Marc's
question on replacing struts, if I understood correctly, I wouldn't
think
this is a simple job... Electronics, springs, need to do a 4
wheel
alignment, etc. Either I cut the wire (but my struts are in good
shape),
suffer from blinking light blindness, or go for GABs.
At 6:22
PM -0500 12/27/98, you wrote:
> Whoa,, Brian he is referencing
the ABS (anti lock break), not the ECS
> (Electronic control
suppension)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
> To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998
6:18 PM
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
>
>
> >Well
First thing to check would be the whireing itself. They have been
>
>know to come off. This happens right near the strut. You can
take off the
> >strut cap, which is located on top of the strut (big
black rubber cover).
> >You can then see the wires. Check to make
sure there making a connection
> >and also fro corrosion. 90% of the
time this is what it is. Even better yet
> >just go to this page on
John's site and it will show you how to do this.
>
>http://user.icx.net/~adams/front_strut_wiring_shield_mod.htm
>
>
> >At 03:07 PM 12/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >>Hi
guys,
> >>I hope you are having a good holiday..
> >>You
have not heard form me yet, My name is Marc Jaffe, I am in New York,
>
>And I have a 95
> >>VR4 with 62k miles
> >>1)My ABS
light has been coming on ..if i restart the car it goes out. I t
>
>seems to come on
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Sun
Dec 27 17:24:44 1998
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Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:22:53
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Hi guys;
Just a subtle reminder....do not repost
everything in the post you are
responding to, unless you are responding to
everything in that post.
It's too easy to hit the respond button, type your
offering, then hit
send, without doing some editing. Cut and delete portions
which are not
applicable. Or, insert/imbed your response at the appropriate
line, and
delete that which you do not need to have us read again. This is
noted
in the rules you chose to agree with when you
joined.
Thanks
Darc
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web
page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Dec 27 18:34:58 1998
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From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS
light
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:34:41 -0500
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stealth-3000gt
An ABS light staying on for any period of time is very
likely a bad sensor.
The shop manual has a pretty decent set of diagnostics
to discover what the
problem is. I hit some debris one night (a tire
iron actually) and it
knocked out the sensor on my right rear wheel.
The light stayed on solid
until the sensor was replaced. Cost for the
sensor was ridculous -- at the
time, I believe it was $400. But then
again, that was before I knew
anything about these cars and the dealership
was probably soaking me.
-Bob
> -----Original
Message-----
> From: owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
[mailto:owner-stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com]On Behalf Of Jay Steinberg
>
Sent: Sunday, December 27, 1998 7:56 PM
> To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
> Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS
light
>
>
> Exactly... Now, unfortunately this issue of the
ECS light blinking is not
> dealt with entirely correctly. I get the sense
that Marc wants to replace
> the struts, though it's not totally clear.
First, let me comment
> on the ECS
> blinking light; I've done so
before. Simply a break in the
> connector wiring
> at the top of
strut is not the sole cause of the problem. If there's a
> break in the
filamentous wiring within the strut, you will get
> the blinking
>
too. It's impossible to fix, short of strut replacement. So, I live with
a
> blinking light. Does anyone know how to cut out that light? As for
Marc's
> question on replacing struts, if I understood correctly, I
wouldn't think
> this is a simple job... Electronics, springs, need to do
a 4 wheel
> alignment, etc. Either I cut the wire (but my struts are in
good shape),
> suffer from blinking light blindness, or go for
GABs.
>
> At 6:22 PM -0500 12/27/98, you wrote:
>
> >
Whoa,, Brian he is referencing the ABS (anti lock break), not the
ECS
> > (Electronic control suppension)
> >
> >
-----Original Message-----
> > From: Brian
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
> > To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
> > Date: Sunday, December 27,
1998 6:18 PM
> > Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS light
> >
>
>
> > >Well First thing to check would be the whireing
itself. They have been
> > >know to come off. This
happens right near the strut. You can
> take off the
> >
>strut cap, which is located on top of the strut (big black
> rubber
cover).
> > >You can then see the wires. Check to make sure
there making a
> connection
> > >and also fro corrosion. 90%
of the time this is what it is.
> Even better yet
> > >just go
to this page on John's site and it will show you how
> to do this.
>
> >http://user.icx.net/~adams/front_strut_wiring_shield_mod.htm
>
> >
> > >At 03:07 PM 12/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >
>>Hi guys,
> > >>I hope you are having a good
holiday..
> > >>You have not heard form me yet, My name is Marc
Jaffe, I am
> in New York,
> > >And I have a 95
> >
>>VR4 with 62k miles
> > >>1)My ABS light has been coming
on ..if i restart the car it
> goes out. I t
> > >seems to
come on
>
> For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
>
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
>
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Sun Dec 27 18:42:32 1998
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From: "Eric Lotter"
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
RE: Team3S: ABS light
Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:42:28 PST
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IF the problem seems more serious (frequent) after the car
has sat, it
is more likely a poor charge in the battery.
EricL
>From: "Bob Fontana"
<bfontana@securitytechnologies.com>
>To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
>Subject: RE: Team3S: ABS
light
>Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:34:41 -0500
>Reply-To:
stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
>
>An ABS light staying on for any
period of time is very likely a bad
sensor.
>The shop manual has a
pretty decent set of diagnostics to discover what
the
>problem
is. I hit some debris one night (a tire iron actually) and
it
>knocked out the sensor on my right rear wheel. The light stayed
on
solid
>until the sensor was replaced. Cost for the sensor was
ridculous -- at
the
>time, I believe it was $400. But then
again, that was before I knew
>anything about these cars and the
dealership was probably soaking
me.
>
>-Bob
>
______________________________________________________
Get
Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
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From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Dec 28 01:30:49 1998
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:27:37
+0000
From: "R.G." <robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ecu on a
non-turbo
References: <368662E8.3212@gate.net>
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Matt,
> Has anyone out there with a non-turbo
installed a G-force ecu? I was
> planning this as my next modification,
but with the cost involved, i
> want input as to how effective it is. What
do they change from the stock
> ecu, the fuel maps, timing, or the
ignition? What kind of HP gain can be
> realized with this mod? Thanks for
any info.
I never heard of anybody who did this nor have I heard of
G-Force making one for
the NT's. Even more I doubt that they are making it
because there is too less
gain, if any, for the bucks.
There's no need
to change the ECU on the NT unless you are changing the cams,
fuel system,
throttle body, heads and valves/lifters. Only then a changed timing
and fuel
delivery (fuel Maps) would make sense to achieve the best result.
Sorry, any
ECU-upgrade for your car is not worth the money.
If you want to do
something good to your NT, try to find a path for good fresh
air through the
way we have our intercoolers. Any "RAM"-air system are only
called
like this and do only give fresh air the way to the filter. They do not
have
a proven RAM air effect.
You can also try to install a Te-Zett
"Turbo". This is a little electric fan
that runs on a very high RPM
and delivers a small amount of air. it works good
on smaller displacements
and becomes less efficient on more than 2.5l. A buddy
of mine (from the
Netherlands) installed it in his 3.8l Camaro and says the
throttle response
is better as well as acceleration, not alot but better. Have a
look at
http://sunflower.singnet.com.sg/~racer/index.html
Good
luck,
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
K&N FIPK,Magnecor
wires,Blitz DSBC/gauge/Dual Timer,Apexi AFC,SBOV,
Borla,OZ Mito2,Yoko
AVS-Z1,braided brake lines,Bremsa brakes,Pagid RS-R pads
Visit my homepage
under: http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/9589/
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 28 01:37:23 1998
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From: "R.G."
<robby@swissonline.ch>
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Subject: Re:
Team3S: Re: Plug Gap
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> I gapped the plugs at .032 and have had good results.
The engine cutout that
> I was getting before at about 15 psi
disappeared.
> I also noticed an increase in boost pressure achieved with
the same
> settings on my boost controller before the new plugs and wires.
I'm not
> quite sure the reason for this, but I'm giving the new plugs and
gap the
> credit.
Yes, defintiely the plugs and maybe the wires if
your older ones were not in
good condition. The higher boost is related to
the fuel be burnt better now.
Also, having some slight hesitation around
15psi, can be caused due to knock and
the timing then slightly retarded. The
cause for the knock could be only one
plug that did not fire perfectly and
causing the noise the ECU interprets as
knock.
Regapping the plugs
(maybe new ones) - the first thing to do when increasing
boost
!
-----------------------
Roger Gerl, Switzerland
93'3000GT
TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 28 08:14:08 1998
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To: stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com
Subject:
Team3S: 3000GT Specs needed (all gens)
References:
<008701be2961$cb263d40$1b3963d1@brad>
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I'm about to finish the development of the 3000GT/Stealth
for "Need for Speed
III". Unfortunately, I don't have the gear
specs handy (poor man without a
manual) and therefore ask if someone could
send me :
- gear ratio (5 speed and 6 speed)
- final gear (5 speed and
6 speed)
Thanks in
adavance
Roger
-----------------------
Roger Gerl,
Switzerland
93'3000GT TwinTurbo (Animale Rosso)
For subscribe/unsubscribe
info, our web page is http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From
owner-stealth-3000gt Mon Dec 28 08:23:02 1998
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec
1998 08:32:55 -0800
From: Rich <rleroy@pacifier.com>
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Subject: Re: Team3S: G-Force ecu on a
non-turbo
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R.G. wrote:
>
> Matt,
>
> >
Has anyone out there with a non-turbo installed
> > a G-force ecu?
<snip>
>
> I never heard of anybody who did this
nor have I
> heard of G-Force making one
[...]
<snip>
> You can also try to install a Te-Zett
"Turbo". This
> is a little electric fan that runs on a very
high
> RPM and delivers a small amount of air. it works good
> on
smaller displacements and becomes less efficient
> on more than
2.5l.
Roger/Matt:
I installed a TurboZet (I think this is what you
are referring to) on
Rommel Dizon's NT this summer. Rommel and I did
some G-Tech runs with
and without the TZ, plus Rommel did some other testing
on his own.
Bottom line: you pay big bux, you get a little more air, perhaps
a *tad*
more response, and a touch better on your times. The net gain/$
ratio
were measurable, but pretty darn low. Results of the TZ
experiments
were posted to Starnet at least twice that I am aware of.
Check the
archives there for them.
Rich
Emerald Green 94 R/T
For
subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
http://www.bobforrest.com/Team3S.htm
From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 28 08:49:25 1998
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From:
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: G-Force ecu on a
non-turbo
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:49:09 -0500
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If I could put my 2 cents in here... It seems to me
(and I'm sure I'll be
corrected by 500 people if I'm wrong) that, excluding
NOS, the biggest
single increase in horsepower to the normally aspirated 3.0
liter DOHC motor
would be achieved by a professional porting and polishing
job. The next
biggest improvement could be accomplished with increased
compression, say
going from 10:1 to 11:1. Then, you go with a GForce
upgrade to accomodate
the new flow characteristics. Wouldn't that net
between 50 to 75 horsies?
All of the above assumes that the intake and
exhaust are already capable of
meeting flow requirement. From what I
know about Matt's car, he's got the
prerequisites.
-Bob
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
Dec 28 09:55:28 1998
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To:
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Re: Team3S: ABS
light
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:19:13 -0500
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Well Marc, I can only comment on your first issue. the ABS
light. I had a
93SL that was doing the same thing. I never could get to what
was wrong but
the list members couldn't either. I would try bleeding out the
entire brake
system first. The Mits brakes seem to be sensative to decaying
fluid, my
Eclipse was. If it is the ABS ocillator pump, it is really
expensive, about
$3000. The is someone on the list with one for sale for
$300, check the
classified section on the 3si.org page. Good
luck.
Ron
For subscribe/unsubscribe info, our web page is
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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To:
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Subject: Re: Team3S: 3000GT Specs
needed (all gens)
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:36:01 -0500
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So Roger, are the tools easy to use for this? I just
picked up the CD for
this and wanted to add my car. What did you use? Any
help appreciated.
Ron
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From
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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:12:36
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From: Marc Jaffe <marc@marcjaffe.com>
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Thanks for the responses.
A)the stereo will go in
for repair.
B) the ABS light is still a mystery...I will check battery...i
did a
complete fluid change on sunday and the proble still exists..what am
i
looking for regarding the sensor in the resivoir....After
thought..the
system runs its abs test and then the light goes on...this would
refer
to a sensor..the question is ...do they get gunked up? cleanable?
and
how do you tell which one?(no repair manual yet)
C)as far as the ecs
shocks...nothings blinking (i gave too many
senieros) i was curious how big a
deal it is to replace since they are
on their way out.
D)as far as anyone
just dealing with the lights in their dash staying
on...if it bothers
you...remove the trim around the dash..remove the 4
screws holding the speedo
combo and remove the offending bulb.
Again thanx for the response..I knew
I could count on you guys to give
good answers
Marc
For
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From owner-stealth-3000gt Mon
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From: Brian Danley
<bcdmad@concentric.net>
To:
"'stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com'"
<stealth-3000gt@list.sirius.com>
Subject: Team3S: HP by way of 1/4 mile
times
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:12:38 -0500
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Reply-To: stealth-3000gt
I found this on a web site and found it
interesting. This is how you can
calculate hp from 1/4 mile times. Now
this doesn't take into effect AWD
RWD or
FWD.
8<---------------------------------------------
How Much
Power?
We all hear those ridiculous horsepower claims from people from time
to
time. What is fact and what is fiction? There are a few ways to find out
the truth;
You can put the engine on an engine dyno. You can put the car
on a chassis
dyno. You can use the proven formula below if you have a
quarter mile run
and an accurate car weight with you aboard.
Just as an
inertial dyno uses mass and acceleration to calculate power, we
can use the
vehicle weight, speed and time to calculate this figure:
The magic formula
is:
1/4 mile speed in mph, squared, divided by ET in seconds Multiplied
by
car
weight in pounds over 1000 Divided by 9.1 = HP.
Example: We have
a car which weighs 2000 pounds with driver and it runs a
1/4 mile of 15
seconds at 100 mph.
100 X 100/15 = 666.66
666.66 X 2000/1000 =
1333.32
1333.32/9.1 = 146.52 hp
This formula has proven to be very
accurate on a wide variety of vehicles
and represents the drive wheel hp.
Notice that speed in the 1/4 mile is the
important factor with regards to
power. The ET is less important and
affected considerably by traction, so
when your buddy says that he did a 14
second ET, find out what the speed
was. He may just have great traction but
not a lot of
power.