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If you have about 3 to 4 hours of time, basic mechanical skills, and a few tools, you can change, re-gap, or inspect the spark plugs yourself. You can use the money you save by not paying a dealer to buy a good torque wrench and socket set. These are my modifications to Brian LaFuente's (GT-Pro) advice. The front plugs are easy and obvious. The back plugs can be accessed by tilting up the plenum; the throttle body and all hoses are left attached. Start at the back of the plenum and work forward. You will need 10, 12, and 13 mm sockets, 5/8" spark plug socket (with rubber insert to grasp plug), a flexible socket extension (like a little universal joint), 3" and 6" socket extensions, screw drivers, some wire, long needle nose pliers or forceps, a torque wrench, and a little patience.
1. Disconnect battery negative terminal (10 mm).
If you are replacing the wires too, note the following arrangements: The cylinders are numbered from the driver-side (timing belt side) of engine as1, 3, and 5 for the front bank, and 2, 4, and 6 for the rear bank. The connections to the ignition coil use the following order, from the front of the car, 6, 3, 5, 2, 4, and 1. There are three coils with the following cylinder pairs firing at the same time 1-4, 2-5, 3-6. Firing order is 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6.
1. Install the plugs and tighten to 25 N-m torque. Tip: barely
slide the plug into the socket just enough so that it won't fall
out. Gently insert the plug and tighten a little by hand. Then
remove the socket, the rubber insert should still be in it.
After all plugs are started, remove the rubber insert from the
socket and complete the tightening process, first by hand, then
with a torque wrench.
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