Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth Friday, February 13
2004 Volume 02 : Number 370
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Hey doug,
While I cannot tell you exactly what the
problem is, I can give you a few places to look. You do not have a choke on a
fuel injected car but you do have sensors that can be affected by the cold.
usually the sensors will trigger an engine code and the engine light will stay
on. it's still a possiblitiy that it is a sensor if the light is not on, but
hard to say for sure.
It could have something to do with a vaccuum
system where a rubber line has a small crack that leaks when the rubber is cold
and hard. when it warms the rubber will expand and possibly close up enough to
seal it. it could be a computer error as well. what you describe with the engine
losing rpm or stalling after starting to get warm sounds like a gasket leak in
the intake but will do that even in warm weather and the car will not run once
warmed up. it's gonna be a fun problem to find. it could even be a seal on an
injector. its hard to tell you what is wrong without checking the car, but I
hope that I have given you some ideas of what you might want to look for.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 11:59:07 -0500
From: "Dan" <
dahur1@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
seat harness
This is probobly a dumb question. But I just got my Stealth, and I am
trying
to become familiar with it. I don't
have power or heated seats.
What is the wiring harness for under the front
seat?
Dan
'94 red R/T
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 12:17:39 -0500
From: "Zobel, Kurt D" <
Kurt.Zobel@ca.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: seat harness
Probably just the seat belt buzzer. I don't think the air bag has
a
sensor
there, but it might.
Kurt
------------------------------
No..rotors are vented for venting, they are drilled for nothing other
than
it got an extra $30 out of your back pocket.
Period.
Responsible brake vendors actually try to counsel customers on this,
and
in some cases provide disclaimers about the negative aspects of
this.
------------------------------
I have had my 93 ES in hibernation for the winter while
periodically
starting it up and rotating the tire
positioning. I don't see many postings
here for many of you
in the NW suburbs or southern Lake county in Illinois
and am
wondering if anyone around here has done the 60k maintenance
and
how involved it will be. Do you recommend anyone to take
it to, as I am not
a hands on type?
Darlene Madden
DBM Enterprises Inc.
847-540-8801
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 10:09:06 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Cut-out
Hi Doug,
In addition to what Aaron said, you might want to do a
quick check of your idle speed control motor (IAC aka ISC) to see if it's still
working. It's *very* common on our cars for this motor to have issues as
the car ages. One way to tell pretty quickly is to warm up the car (normal
idle speed) and then turn on the A/C. The idle speed should immediately
kick up to a higher idle. If it doesn't, then I'd suspect your IAC
motor.
If your IAC is working, it could be a vacuum leak
somewhere. Sometimes you can hear the vacuum leak with the hood up;
otherwise, find a piece of tubing and stick one end near your ear and the other
end at various places in the engine bay where there might be vacuum leaks.
You should be able to hear it then.
Also, have you replaced the
capacitors in your ECU? The '91-'93 ECU capacitors are known for leaking
electrolyte onto the PCB and that can cause all kinds of strange and
intermittent symptoms.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 13:15:32 -0500
From: "Dan" <
dahur1@comcast.net>
Subject: Team3S:
wire harness
There is a wire harness under both the pass and driver seats. No power
seats
either side. I do have a CD tape deck behind the rear seat.
Dan
'94 red R/T
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 10:16:45 -0800
From: "Gross, Erik" <
erik.gross@intel.com>
Subject: RE:
Team3S: Motor Mount Question...
> The front roll stop mount has quite a bit of clearance.
> Thus,
I'm thinking you may find the rear mount to have
> force on the bolt. You
may want to put a jack
> under the transmission if you find the bolt to
be tight.
I, too, suspected as much. However, we were wrong... for my engine
anyway. There was zero force on the rear mount through-bolt when I removed
it. It just slid out with barely any force. I did replace the side
mounts (engine/tranny mounts) first, so perhaps they're holding the engine
better. Also, I guess it could be that the rear mount (roll-stopper) is
*totally* FUBAR. As in, the bushing (tube) that goes through the center of
the mount just kinda "fell out" of the mount when I was wiggling the mount
around trying to get it out. Is it bad when the bushing just falls
out? ;) No wonder I had so much engine motion...
Anywho... I have the mount completely unbolted, but was unable to get it
out of the stinkin car last night. I rotated it like the manual says (flat
bracket part rotates upward toward the firewall, and thus is parallel with the
firewall) and it still doesn't have clearance. If I push it upward to
clear the engine bracket, it hits the rear turbo wastegate actuator. If I
push it downward all the way, I'd have to lift the engine 3-4" in the rear to
let it slide out under the engine bracket. I'm not quite comfortable
moving the engine that much, so I guess I'll pull the wastegate actuator off
this evening... any other tips or suggestions?
> I'm thinking that by keeping the OEM style mounts for the
>
left/right you will probably have very good sound/vibration
>
damping.
Given the fact that my motor has no weight on either of the roll stoppers
when at rest, I think it's worth a shot. That's what I'll try, since the
tranny and motor mounts are [relatively] easy to replace. The roll
stoppers are the fun ones, and I don't want to do this twice :-)
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 13:22:58 -0500
From: "Starkey, Jr., Joseph"
<
starkeyje@bipc.com>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: spring fever
I can't answer your primary question as I'm from PA. And I don't want
to hijack your thread. However, I notice that you periodically start your
car up during winter hibernation. I've always been told that doing that
does more harm than good for a variety of reasons, including (1) wear and tear
on an engine is worst during the warm-up time period and (2) idling the car for
a few minutes doesn't allow enough time to burn out the moisture, thus leading
to failed exhaust parts. If you winterize your car properly, and properly
take it out of hibernation, it is more beneficial to just let the car sit, while
rotating the tires every month or so. What I've been doing for the last
seven years when I'm ready to take the car out, I just unplug the fuel pump
relay, turn the car over a few seconds build oil pressure to the top end, and
then plug the fuel pump relay back in and start it up. Unplugging the
relay minimizes "wear and tear" by allowing the engine build oil pressure to
t!
he top, and coat internal parts while the engine is turning slowly
with no load at all, rather than turning at 1000+ RPM with high load, during
which the first few seconds vital internal parts will essentially be dry.
Knock on wood, but never a problem for 7 years. JMHO
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 11:11:36 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Lifting engine / transmission
I've been meaning to post this technique for lifting the engine with the
transmission attached. The suggestion came from Rick Pierce who observed
"Brian" applying this technique. I used it to put my engine back in my car
and it worked great.
This technique allows you to independently roll the engine along it's axis
and tip the engine end-to-end.
Required items:
Engine crane
Leveling bar
2 lifting links
1 come-along (cable
style)
I have a engine crane which came with a leveling bar. The leveling bar
has
4 chains with angles at the ends (for bolting to the engine). It also
has a
crank which moves the lift bar along the leveling bar.
I removed one chain from each end of the leveling bar and used the other
two chains to attach to the engine lift points. I bolted the angle to the
front lift point and I used a used a lifting link to attach the other chain
to the rear lift point. I attached to the chain above the angle (I taped it
up to the chain to keep it from getting in the way). The lifting link I
used looks like a climbers carabineer with the open side of the link being
opened and closed by screwing a long "nut" along the long length of the
link. I was looking for a link with a 2000 pound capacity. NOTE: The front
chain could also be attached to the lifting point using a lifting link
rather than a bolt through the angle.
I then attached the come-along to the crane and a transmission motor mount
bolt. I had removed the transmission motor mount (providing more clearance
when inserting the engine into the engine compartment) and bolted one of my
extra chains to one of the motor mount bolt locations (I bolted through the
angle attached to the chain). To attach the come-along to the crane, I used
another lifting link in the highest link in the chain hanging from the
crane.
I noticed that when using the two lift points (diagonally across the
engine) and the leveling bar, the engine alone balanced with the flywheel
slightly up compared to the timing belt end. When the transmission was
attached, the balance switch with the transmission end being lower than the
timing belt end (by only 3-4 inches). The come-along was used to raise the
transmission end to level the engine end-to-end. Since the come-along is
along the axis of the engine, the leveling bar (which goes across the
engine) was used to roll the engine along it's axis.
This setup worked great for me.
Thanks again to Rick Pierce who observed "Brian" doing it this way and then
passing along the tip.
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 11:21:17 -0800
From: Mike Gerhard <
gerhard1@llnl.gov>
Subject: Team3S:
Attaching transmission to engine tips
Thanks to Rick Pierce for this suggestion in mating the engine to the
transmission. I applied this technique with the engine out of the car.
However, I'm thinking it can also be applied when mating the transmission
to the engine while in the car.
There are two key steps:
(1) Locate the transmission so that it is approximately at the correct
level and orient the transmission so the bell housing is parallel to the
engine.
(2) Use the 3 long bolts from the transfer case (which have the same treads
as the transmission/engine bolts) in 3 of the 4 upper transmission to
engine bolt locations. These are long enough to span the 1-2" gap between
the transmission and engine and act as guide pins (once they are threaded
in). You can actually use them to draw the engine and transmission
together. You will need a mess of washers to put under the heads of the
bolts as the transmission is drawn to the engine.
I had the engine on the crane and the transmission in a little red wagon
(Radio Flyer). We blocked the transmission with wood pieces to get it
located and oriented correctly. Once we had the long bolts attached, we
wiggled the system and the transmission slide right into place. We then
replaced the long bolts with the actual transmission to engine bolts.
Thanks again Rick. You saved me a lot of work.
- --------------------------------------------------------------
Mike
Gerhard 1991
Mitsubishi 3000GT VR4 Pearl White
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 11:30:35 -0800 (PST)
From:
chfmn@webtv.net (Walter Womack)
Subject:
Team3S: Engine shot?
I'm worried that I may have a serious problem with my beloved 92
TT.It
backfires out the exhaust when upshifting followed by clouds of
white
smoke and oil consumption has risen to 1 qrt every 200 or so
miles.Does
anyone have an opinion as to what is probably wrong here? It has
106k on
it and used to use 1 qrt every 2k. I do not have the funds for a
major
overhaul and hate to think that this may be the end of the
line.Thank
you for any input.
92 RTTT Pearl White
------------------------------
> It backfires out the exhaust when upshifting followed
> by
clouds of white smoke and oil consumption has risen
> to 1 qrt every 200
or so miles.Does anyone have an
> opinion as to what is probably wrong
here?
Blown head gasket? Try a compression test and if that doesn't show
anything try a leakdown test.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 14:37:04 -0500
From: "Danno" <
palermod@msu.edu>
Subject:
Update:Team3S: Brake Disaster
Thanks to all who favored a reply.
The mechanic disassembled the front left wheel/caliper to find that one
of
the pins that holds the pads in was gone, and the spring that holds the
pins
in was flopping in the breeze. The inboard pad had no lining left,
had
scored the inboard side of the rotor and welded itself to the
caliper
pistons. What was left of the pad was half in, half out of the
caliper.
He agreed this appeared to be a catastrophic part failure and agreed to
go
50/50 on the cost of a new caliper, two new rotors (the right needed to
be
replaced too - he was right, I checked it myself) and new pads. His
total
including labor was $460 - I paid $230. And I didn't have to sit
in a
slushy garage and do it myself (I just don't have the time
anymore!!). I'm
satisfied, especially since it's been 18 months (his
receipt did say 1 year
parts/labor).
So, that's the scoop.
Again, many thanks!
- - Dan
'95 VR4
------------------------------
The Stealth Boys, here in Cedar Rapids, have a similar solution.
He's
called Ed, and Ed is almost capable of lifting the engine out all
by
himself. We used an engine crane, but Ed did everything that your
other
equipment accomplishes. And it only costs me a plate of ribs.
Rich/slow old poop/engineless
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:40:01 -0500
From: "Omar Malik" <
ojm@iname.com>
Subject: RE: Team3S: Motor
Mount Question...
Best way to do this is to unbolt the motor mount bracket from the block.
The
bottom 3 bolts are easy.. it's the upper one buried inside the mount
and
behind all sorts of hoses and whatnot that is a pita. But if you can
get
that free, the mount will come right out.
Omar
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 22:47:46 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lifting engine / transmission
Not to sound like I'm tooting my own horn or anything, but I've
done
this twice, in and out, now and HOGHLY recommend it as the ONLY way
to
go. It makes pulling and installing the motor so easy, dare I say
it
was 'fun'?
If anybody needs any further help or direction, lemme know, also.
BTW...I like your idea about bolting up the tranny using a wagon, but
I
just did mine by lowering the motor to the floor and resting it on
the
oil pan, then sliding the tranny right into place and bolting it
up. SO
EASY!!! If you've ever changed the clutch in the car, you
know what a
PITA it is to not only get the tranny out, but a GARGANTUAN PITA
to get
it back.
- -Jeff Crabtree
'91 Stealth R/T TT (3SI #0499)
2K
Jeep TJ Sport
St. Louis, MO
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 16:22:06 +0000
From:
mjannusch@comcast.netSubject: RE:
Team3S: Lifting engine / transmission
> BTW...I like your idea about bolting up the tranny
> using a
wagon, but I just did mine by lowering the
> motor to the floor and
resting it on the oil pan.
I wouldn't recommend doing that. If you bend up the bottom of the pan
at all, it'll restrict oil flow to the pump pickup. You certainly don't
want that to happen.
- -Matt
'95 3000GT Spyder VR4
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 11:07:15 -0600
From: "William J. Crabtree" <
wjcrabtree@earthlink.net>
Subject:
RE: Team3S: Lifting engine / transmission
I said lower to, not set on. The weight is still held by the
crane.
- -Jeff
------------------------------
End of Team3S: 3000GT & Stealth V2
#370
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